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Wednesday, 15 February 2017

EXCELLENT SINGLE MALTS

SOME OUTSTANDING SINGLE MALTS

I've been lucky to savour almost 750 single malts, including a few single singles. I'll tell you one thing-it keeps a grumpy 70 year old tied down in smoky fumes while waxing eloquent about the positives of barley, water and yeast. See what a good single can do to simple writing? Complicate it and join the 'Haves' of this contra-rotating antithetic malt world!And the tidbits that follow to tickle you a tad, if you've had a bath.

Scotch drinkers like to keep things simple. Most Scotch drinkers want to enjoy the smoky flavour unadorned except perhaps for water. Scotch drinkers are trying to find the top distilleries in Scottish towns from the Highlands to the Lowlands that produce the best Single Malt Scotch. Rest assured that my list includes whiskies from the Scottish Isles that are hard to pronounce, but these are all names worth knowing. Enjoy my selection of Great Single Malt Scotch Whiskies, in no particular order. I like the Singleton of Glen Ord 18 YO the most, followed by the Japanese Yamazaki 12 YO, JW Island Green, Talisker 18 and Lagavulin 16. I'll review those left out later.



1.  Glenmorangie. : A wonderful Highland malt that comes in a variety of excellent finishes - Portwood, Madeira, and Sherry. I'd like to try the Sauternes finish, which sounds wonderful. Somebody help, please. Best of all: the '97 Nectar d'Or, which I prefer to the very expensive Signet. Prices were fine before LVMH took it over and jacked up costs threefold. Shaft them!

Glenmorangie is a simple whisky to understand. All its casks meant for age-stated bottling and all new make is decanted into American oak casks and left there for 8 years. The new make is then shifted to the second-fill casks kept in damp ‘dunnage’ warehouses. Two years later, a designated portion is bottled as The Original. The remaining new make, 10 YO, is then transferred into its final casks, to emerge as 12 YO bottlings. One lot, those in specially selected ruby port pipes from the Quintas or wine estates of Portugal, is left to mature two years more and emerge as The Quinta Ruban 14 YO.

Private Editions: Starting 2009, the distillery has produced a private expression every year, most of which do not carry age statements, but are not chill filtered and at 46% ABV or higher. 

Legends: 4 brands are sold as legends, but only in the travel reserve sector. Initially sold as 1L bottles at 43% ABV, they are now available as 70cl bottles at 43%. The Tarlogan, The Tayne, The Duthac and The Cadboll comprise this segment. The Cadboll is a 15 YO.

2. Laphroaig: Islay's best-known malt. The fifteen-year old is cloying when you get to tasting and deconstructing the whisky to reveal its true heritage.It represents outstanding value for cost. Perhaps best of all is the sherry-finished thirty-year-old - an unusual but beautiful balance between sweet sherry and smoky peat. Even the Laphroaig 10 quarter cask is super. I got one from Cyprus, on sale.

3. Ardbeg: Another excellent Islay malt, especially delicious in its older bottlings. Try the Ardbeg 10, the good old peat example, or Provenance, cut with a little water to bring out the flavour and soften its near 56% ABV or 98 proof. I had my first Ardbeg in Osaka's Bar Satoh way back in '99, in the best whisky bar in the world as my ADC, one Capt. Saito, told me and the taste of Ardbeg always takes me back there. The Uigeadail and Ardbog are mighty good too.


4. Glenfiddich 18. Luxe and easy-sipping. Look for enticing notes of butterscotch, baked pear, cinnamon and clove on the nose and palate, swathed in just the right amount of smokiness. 


5. The Glenlivet 12. Yes, the 12 YO and not the 15 or 18 YO expressions from The Glenlivet, matured in French Limousin Oak casks notwithstanding. Limousin Oak is a popular choice for maturation of Cognac.

Nose: Light fruits, of course. I get grape flesh and fresh almond slivers, at first. Accenting this freshness is something plant-like/leafy or even "piney", like dried pineapple. There's also an impression of yellow apple and butter. (Lesser influences of vanilla, butterscotch, toasted coconut, and rose.) Palate: A butter-smooth entrance welcomes... but quickly transforms to sour white peach, rather gingery. Then to tannic, purple grape skins and something menthol-y, like pine. Finish: Butter and yellow apples emerge, rescuing the prickly palate. But the youth can't hide, and the finish closes with pine and powdered ginger. Vanilla/underripe peach lightly occupy the background.

The Glenlivet 12 is light and nondescript. It is not objectionable, and just served a good purpose: improving my flight by giving me something interesting to focus on for a short while. There is quite an atmosphere to overcome, and it does so suitably. I am therefore grateful for its availability. No wonder it is one of the best selling malts in the world, well-worth re-visiting. I would probably add a case to my lower-altitude cabinet. 


6. The Macallan brand is synonymous with top-tier Single Malt Scotch, and the unsung hero of their portfolio is their cask strength. This malt hails from the Easter Elchies House of Macallan overlooking the River Spey. This cask strength has a sherried finish making it bright, rich and accessible; it explodes with caramel, brown sugar, toffee and vanilla so complex and intertwined it drinks like a dessert. It’s well balanced on the palate with a sweet, tawny port and cinnamon bouquet. At this price point, I think it's a steal. Make that "The Steal". 


Talisker 18. The wonderful bouquet includes scents of seaweed, smoke, peat, iodine, kippers and pipe tobacco. The palate entry is briny and intense; the midpalate is oily with traces of anise, butterscotch and linseed oil. Finishes vibrantly with tastes of salted butter, oil and brine. Highly idiosyncratic: for lovers of robust, seaside malts. I rate it very highly. Alternate: Talisker 10.



8. Aberlour A'bunadh

The Aberlour A’bunadh is an unusual Scotch whisky. While it carries no age statement, each bottle carries a unique batch number. It is released in limited-run batches ranging from one to as many as five per year, with the first batch released in 1997. The most recent release was batch No. 52, released in 2015. The whisky is a blend from barrels ranging from five to 25 years in age, and is bottled at cask strength, which historically has averaged between 59% ABV and 61% ABV. The whisky is not chill filtered, nor is any colouring added to it.

Speyside cake. ABV: 59%.Colour: Amontillado Sherry. If you like fruit cake, chocolate pot, creme brulee, marshmallow, banana mousses, pecan pie, apple strudel, Christmas cake, marzipan, toffee fudge sprinkled with icing sugar. YOU WILL like this gem of a scotch.The flavors are so intense and layered, making this whisky a fun experiment where you can add little bit of water each time to see just how the complexity of its flavours unfold. It also has a lovely rum tone to its nose, an amazing sensation.

9. Cardhu   

                                

Cardhu has a warmth and cleanliness of taste - often described as sleek, a popular taste known and liked globally. Served from its classy decanter, high end Cardhu is the classic Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky. The Cardhu 12 year old has the flavor of luscious rich fruit, sweet honey and nut all smoothly balanced by a delicious dry freshness, bottled at 40 per cent ABV. It is gold and honey to look at, its nose powered by heather and sweet honey and nut. It is enticing yet intriguing, harmonious but softer with water; malt-cereal; spicy wood, moorland and faint traces of wood-smoke. Its body is soft, pleasing, medium while its palate is well balanced, smooth mouth-feel; sweet and fresh, then drying. Moorish. Enjoyable with a little water or ice. The FINISH is quite short. Lingering sweet smoke in the attractive, drying aftertaste. 


10. Balblair. This is one of Scotland's best 'hidden gems' from a distillery up on the North East coast . It is a Starburst fruit bowl with fresh citrus and green fruit notes and just enough earthiness to stop it from being cloying. This full-bodied malt is fused with the citrus aromas of pineapple, apricot and lemon to create a long-lasting sweet finish. On the nose, the American oak barrels, used in the distillate's maturation, produce an inviting, spicy fragrance.

Balblair 15 Year Old is a full-bodied, velvety single malt that has been matured in ex-bourbon casks and finished in first-fill Spanish oak butts. This creates a rich, sweet whisky with spicy aromas of honey, gingerbread and prunes. The palate is velvety-smooth and full of dark chocolate, tropical fruit and warm spice notes.


11. Bowmore. Another Islay malt, but different from most. "The whiskies of Bowmore are between the intense malts of the south shore and the gentlest extremes of the north. Their character is not a compromise but an enigma…". Best value: Bowmore Legend. Best taste: any of the twenty-five + bottlings. I managed two from eBay.de when I was last in der Vaterland in 2011. 

12. The Singleton of Glen Ord 18 YO

On the nose, a gentle waft of beeswax opening up to honey, followed by distant yet distinct flavours of cinnamon, basel, Sinhalese pine, lemon peel, quince and vanilla. Chilly powder. Palate: Big. Waxen and chocolate malt-sugar sweet. Clotted cream, Italian lemon, dried fruits - nectarines, apricot, Asian gooseberries and tangerines. Mirabelle jam. Half a teaspoon of water highlights the multi-sherried wood, wax, honey, and vanilla, but depresses the fruit. Traces of armagnac. Finish: Long and luxurious. Doesn''t lose anything. Just glorious. Punchy yet divinely elegant. Rajasthani Asha liquor, Asian kitchen mash. Maybe that’s why it’s sold in Asia only! 

13. Johnnie Walker Island Green NAS Blended Malt

It is made with whiskies from four different distilleries, each from different regions of Scotland - Caol Ila distillery in Islay, Clynelish distillery in the Highlands, Glenkinchie distillery in the Lowlands, and Cardhu Distillery in Speyside. This whisky is bottled at 43% ABV. 

Color: Amber

Nose: Nice smoky start… Not as strong as an Islay expression but still very definitive… light and fresh aromas, like a morning walk in the park, fruits, flowers and grass… presence of malty wood notes… honey and vanilla with a healthy amount of wood spices… peppery…

Palate: Complex but not so balanced flavors… Heavy on the smoky and spicy side… sweetness from pears… honeyed malt cereals and vanilla with hints of citrus… faint notes of chocolaty bitterness…

Finish: Medium but warm finish… very spicy …  leaving behind some bitter, tar like flavours on the tongue…

Island Green is a great ‘blend’ expression as someone would expect from Johnnie Walker. But if you are a real Islay lover, this bottle will not quench your thirst of smoke and peat. On the other hand, if you like lightly peated whiskies or just starting to explore the wonderful world of smoky whisky, this may be the perfect dram to start things of.

14. Amrut Peated Single Malt Whisky 46% ABV

The new 46% Amruts are a very different proposition to the pleasant but unexciting original release. At the higher strength this 24ppm peated effort fairly fizzes along the tastebuds. This is excellent - hugely improved stuff from a distillery coming along in leaps and bounds.

The finish is sweet, heavy peated flavours emerging and fading like a show-stopping number before ending with a custard-sweetness at the back of the palate…and some banana. Surprisingly, the sweetness lingers on. Interestingly, the peat was not overpowered by the competitive smokiness, nor did it overpower any of the other interesting complexities.

This particular expression is one of their best. As there is no peated barley in India, Amrut sources it from Scotland, having it peated there to their exact specifications before being shipped to the distillery in India. The peat dissipates somewhat during the journey. The peated barley is mashed, distilled, aged, and bottled at Amrut, and after spending around 6 years in used bourbon barrels, this peated single malt is diluted to 80.5°proof (92° in the US) for bottling.

On the nose, this peated single malt was rife with citrus and peat—a sweeter sort than one might expect—as well as salt pork (how did that get there?!) and low notes of caramel. Breaking it with ½ teaspoon of water brought the unusual savoury notes to the forefront, followed by a grassiness, which, combined with the savoury, was almost like chives.

Though it was a hefty 46% ABV, the mouthfeel was under the tongue, mostly. The Amrut Fusion blends this (25%) and their single malt (75%).

The company is confident that its single malt segment to be a big revenue generator in the next few years, hoping to scale up to 40,000-50,000 cases internationally. They plan to take the Prestige blended whisky off market, enabling them to increase their supplies to the Single Malt direction.



TIDBITS

Experts advise you to drink Single Malt whisky neat or with a tiny bit of water. The water supposedly ‘Releases the Serpent’ from the whisky.

If there is a serpent, there is also an Angel. As it ages, 2.0-2.5 % of the whisky maturing in a barrel is lost to evaporation every year. Distillers refer to this as the ‘angel’s share’.

But the Devil has the last word. The larger the barrel used to mature whisky, the more the spirit that is absorbed by the wood and lost, called by distillers the ‘Devil’s Cut’.

18,000 litres of Scotch whisky worth over $800,000 (£ 500,000) were accidentally flushed down the drain at Chivas Brothers’ Dumbarton bottling plant of in March 2013. Earlier, Glen Catrine Bonded Warehouse in Catrine village had spilled 6,600 liters of whisky on 6 September 2011− mostly into the River Ayr. They were fined £12,000.





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