GLENMORANGIE NECTAR 16 YO SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY
History Of Glenmorangie Distillery
Glenmorangie has a fascinating backstory, with ties to Celtic lore, ancient kingdoms, and local community. The Glenmorangie logo was inspired by the mysterious and ancient Cadboll Stone. In the eighth century, a kingdom of tribes known as the Picts ruled Scotland’s north-east, including the peninsula that would become home to Glenmorangie. The Romans gave the Picts their name, inspired by their custom of painting scenes from the landscape around them onto their bodies.
One of the best surviving testaments to the Picts is the Hilton of Cadboll stone, into which they carved their story. Discovered centuries later, it has since been restored and now resides in the National Museum of Scotland. The swirls of the Glenmorangie logo are inspired by the intricate carvings of the Stone, in tribute to the Picts who first cultivated the golden barley fields that Glenmorangie harvests today to create their distinctive single malt whiskies.
The portion of the Cadboll Stone from which the Glenmorangie logo comes |
Situated next to the Dornoch Firth in a series of handsome red sandstone buildings, the Glenmorangie distillery started life as the local brewery for the town of Tain in 1730, having produced other alcohol since 1703, in all probability, illegal hooch. It belonged to the reputable Matheson family, who would have eschewed illegal stuff in favour of beer, explaining the choice of a brewery drawing its water from the small stream known as Morangie Burn. While the earliest evidence of beer brewing in Scotland dates to the Neolithic period, brewing in this period was a relatively small scale, local operation, simply a part of community activity.
Distillation was legalised in 1823 and the eldest Matheson scion, William, went to Elgin in Moray, Speyside to observe and study distillation. In 1843, twenty years after learning the intricacies of distilling, William Matheson bought a tract of land adjacent to Tarlogie Springs and built a distillery there, a stone's throw away from the brewery, with a licence to distill. He must have also obtained a licence to sell, though no specific mention is made thereof. The brewery was closed down in stages. Starting with a single pot still, it took six more years for the first new make to trickle out of Glenmorangie. The second pot still was installed and made operational anon and the distillery remained in the family until 1887.
Matheson set himself apart to put history in motion by creating a single malt at a time when others were focussed on blends. The complex whisky he created was inspired by the distillery’s peaceful surroundings on the banks of the Dornoch Firth. But buyers of whisky would select their brands from their preferred grocer, rather than from a producer. The grocer held the purse-strings and could and did blend Matheson’s malt whisky. His single malt floundered. Sales weren’t too brisk so the distillery was sold to the Maitland brothers and Duncan Cameron. The common Morangie component of all these names comes from the Morangie Burn mentioned supra, though it draws its water from a mineral- water source, the Tarlogie Springs, making this one of a small number of hard water sites in Scotland.
The new owners saw immediately that the design of the stills, which were short and squat, left a lot to be desired, attributing the low sales volume to inferior quality product. They brought the Taylor family from the adjoining village into their fold. Taylor owned a gin mill a couple of miles away from and the trio decided to bring the tops of their gin stills up to Tain and add them to the short still necks, while the bodies were sold off. Such was the origin of the tallest neck stills in Scotland.
Reputed welders did a good job of amalgamating the necks. The slight bulges that protruded at the joint were also visible from inside the necks and were retained. In fact, all newer stills made thereafter, till today, retain all bulges/dents and inner scorch/joint marks and slight reduction (less than half of one inch) in diameter. But then they ran into an unexpected problem-the roof was too low to accommodate the new stills. Holes were punched in the roof allowing the necks to stick out into the open, but this was detrimental according to professional consultants, who strongly advised proper protection against the vagaries of weather. Accordingly, the roof was rebuilt at a greater height and a suitable condensation chamber created. The distillery did not remain cost-effective and was soon to go to market.
The business was sold to a
partnership between two blending and broking firms, Macdonald & Muir and
Durham & Co, soon passing entirely to the former, which used the whiskies
for single malts, blended malts and blended Scotch. These products were very successful
and the owners found they couldn’t ramp up output due shortage of maltings. The company’s principal brand of blended whisky was named Highland Queen, marking the historic association between the port of Leith where Macdonald & Muir was based, and Mary Queen of Scots, who landed there from France in 1561. In
1896, the Muir family had built a Brewery at Elgin’s boundaries (where the burgh’s gallows once stood), taking its water and power from the fast-flowing River Lossie alongside on the westernmost slopes of the Speyside
hills leading to the river. Ownership went to the younger Muir son, while the elder was busy with his own venture with his brewery converted to distillery Glenmorangie in the Highlands.
Following his successful brother, Muir Jr converted it to a distillery in 1898. This distillery was not as carefully crafted as its Highlands mate, flooding regularly on marshy land, but was also named Glenmorangie, a family trend. In the slow-motion era of those days, nobody realised this replication, till annual tax assessment fell due and the duplication was discovered. Muir Jr was told to change the name of his distillery. Glen Moran was not accepted as a viable alternative, leading to its final name, Glen Moray. In 1902, Glen Moray slowed down distilling operations, shutting it down by 1910. A large number of small dwellings came up between the adjoining RAF airfield and the distillery.
Glenmorangie found a solution to its low-volume
problem in 1898 with the operationalisation of the new brewery turned distillery at Elgin's boundaries, probably a major factor in the initial selection of its name. Muir Jr was told to continue to produce maltings and provide them to Muir Sr. After a year-long preparation, a supply chain was established and Glen
Moray became a maltings supplier to Glenmorangie. On Muir Jr's demise, the distillery was acquired by Glenmorangie, again a family decision.
Although it was bottled in small quantities from the 1920s, a change of strategy in 1959 saw Glenmorangie burgeon as a single malt that soon became Scotland’s biggest seller. Apparently the tall stills, with its kinks intact and found to be the tallest in Scotland, made a considerable difference to the subtlety, softness and enduring characteristics of the distillate. Cask quality was to prove the second factor in its popularity.
This was not the first time that this had happened, however. Records show that at the end of the 19th century Glenmorangie single malt whisky bottled at nearly 63% ABV was being sold at The Savoy and other top-end London hotels, as well as being exported. Once fully organised, Glenmorangie produced only the one single malt whisky, The Original, selling it at 10 years of age. All other brands in the earlier days, i.e., since 1890, were either precursors to or offshoots of The Original.
Early success in the single malt category resulted in two more exact replica stills being added to the original pair in 1976, a number which was doubled again in 1990. Dr Bill Lumsden joined the distillery in 1995 and brought with him unique ideas, which were to prove best-selling. He got the owners to order and purchase specific slow growth, air-seasoned Ozark Mountain oak barrels that were first used as Bourbon-whisky casks. The single malts from these barrels were extracted and transferred for two more years into ex-Oloroso Sherry casks to emerge as the Lasanta 12 YO; into Quinta Ruban Port casks to emerge as the Quinta Ruban 12 YO and into French Sauternes wine casks to emerge as the Nectar d'Or 12 YO.
In 1996 the firm changed its name to Glenmorangie. The very next year, they acquired the run-down distillery of Ardbeg on Islay from Allied Distillers for £7 million, giving them a second family of single malt whiskies with a profile radically different to that of Glenmorangie, virtually the two opposing ends of a rainbow. Surprisingly, the owners decided to leave the business in 2004 and put their holdings on sale. French luxury goods firm Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) bought the firm and all associated holdings for £300m, winning a bidding war with Pernod Ricard.
In 2009, four more stills were added, along with a larger mash tun and extra washbacks.By now, Glenmorangie had moved into overdrive, with over 15 separate expressions, increasing by two or more every year.More recently, extra warehousing has been built, the result of a decision to mature and vat all the production on-site.
2021 saw the unveiling of The Lighthouse, a new distillery made just for Glenmorangie. The exquisitely designed glass building, located on the same grounds as the original distillery, is considerably smaller and holds just two of the brand’s massive stills plus a new mash tun and washbacks. Due to its size and the sensory tasting lab that sits just above it, it’s clear that the new building is meant predominantly for experimentation and innovation rather than general production, such as the use of stainless steel condensers.
THE DISTILLERS OF TAIN
For generations, Glenmorangie has been distilled by a fiercely loyal group of local men individually selected by the Distillery Manager, and entrusted with the secrets of the craft. They are known as The Men of Tain, after the distillery’s location in beautiful Tain, Ross-shire.
The core workforce at the Distillery - the so-called ‘16 Men of Tain’ - were also long-serving and provided a wealth of whisky making experience and time-honoured skills in the early years. Today there are '24 Distillers of Tain’ led by Edward Thom, a celebrated Distillery Manager. Glenmorangie has continued to support and build strong relationships with its surrounding community, attracting many generations to craft its award winning whiskies over the years.
Inspired by their dedication, English guitarist Allan Holdsworth released an album in March 2000 titled “The Sixteen Men of Tain” to honour the skillful craftsmen at the helm of Glenmorangie.
Their Brand Mascot
As might be expected, the extremely tall stills were compared to the Giraffe, and, in short order, the Giraffe became the symbol of the Highland Distillery. But the giraffe faces threats in the wild, from habitat loss to poaching. Numbers have fallen by over 30% in just 35 years, with some populations classed as critically endangered. To play their part in helping in the conservation of the Giraffe, the distillery forged a pioneering conservation partnership in 2020, with the Giraffe Conservation Foundation (GCF) and the Royal Zoological Society of Scotland (RZSS).
Glenmorangie The Nectar d’Or 46% ABV
This dram was originally a 12 year old expression with a 46% ABV, with a slow growth, air-seasoned Ozark Mountain oak barrel 10 year bourbon maturation and a two year Sauternes finish. Sauternes is a French wine from Bordeaux. It is produced by allowing green/white grapes to almost reach a rot-like state on the vine; this treatment of the grapes allows them to become almost raisined, causing the fruit to have a high concentrate of sugar. It is sweet and often referred to as honey-like. Some call it a dessert wine; the wine can be expensive and is usually found in very old vintages.
In 2019 Glenmorangie began a transition and the Nectar d’Or became a non age statement release, still at 46% ABV. As we know, this move often allows producers to release younger whiskies quicker, and can often be a stock manipulation tactic. The length of the original maturation and Sauternes finish are now a little unclear; perhaps given a little time more information will become available. But that was put to rest by the return of the 12 YO in 2022, which expression is now dying out of the market.
Colour: Splendid bright gold.
Nose: Sauternes matured or finished whiskies tend to be heavy on the citrus notes. This has that also, perhaps leaning more toward the lemon element. There is a nice, sweet vanilla custard, perhaps on a warm sugary pie crust, a little ginger and fruity. Very sweet on sherbet and pastry notes. Buttery with white fruit and gentle clove like spice.
Palate: The custard on the nose is now poured over a steamed syrup pudding, and at the same time there is a crème brulee with demerara sugar gently toasting under the grill, silky mouth feel. Cereal notes and gentle spices are more noticeable now, sitting on a soft, dry mouth feel, adding to the experience. An amalgamation of sweet notes.
Finish: The finish also shows some spice with the oak coming forward, sharing space with the light honey. This seems much spicier than the previous version; perhaps that's due to oxidising for a year or two. But it is extremely complex, elegant and easy to drink. Would make a good introductory malt.
Glenmorangie The Nectar 46% ABV
Dr Bill Lumsden first brought a whisky of dessert-like complexity to life in Glenmorangie The Nectar D’Or. Now, he has taken its swirls of sweet scents and spice to new heights of deliciousness, in the award-winning Glenmorangie The Nectar. Aged longer, for 16 years, in an enhanced combination of bourbon and sweet white wine casks, this new whisky is even more sumptuous and complex.
For extra depth and creaminess, silky Glenmorangie aged for 14 years in bourbon casks was selected. The whisky was then finished for two more years in a new combination of sweet white wine casks.
Sauternes and Monbazillac casks from France bring sumptuous notes of pastry, brioche, meringue and baked apples. Moscatel casks from Spain offer sweet, syrupy dessert-like notes. And Tokaji casks from Hungary, add white chocolate, almond and honeycomb flavours to their creation.
Colour: Bronze gold.
Nose: Rich and heady, almost decadent, with notes of baking brioche, leesy wine, baked apricot, vanilla pudding, toasted almond and chestnuts and hints of chocolate truffles. With water, there is a burst of candy sweetness, touches of orange syrup, a flinty minerality, and a curious, distinctive herbal top note, like sage or basil.
Palate: The texture is unctuous and sticky, but with a balancing lemon zestiness. This leads into rich, sweet flavours of vanilla crème anglaise, baked apricots, warm raisin bread, roasting chestnuts, and a mixture of spices, particularly nutmeg and star anise. The oaky backbone lasts throughout the taste, but is always balanced by sweet, fruity and spicy notes.
Finish: The finish is long and lingering, with some lemon rind, baking bread and a touch of honeycomb.
ADDENDA:
Glenmorangie’s ‘Playful’ Redesign 2022
Starting July 2022, Glenmorangie created a new look for its core range to better reflect the flavours of each expression. The new packaging for Glenmorangie The Original, The Lasanta and The Quinta Ruban aimed to combine ‘elegance, luxurious materials and a sense of fun’. Using the tagline, "It's kind of delicious and wonderful!", the campaign was created in partnership with Aldridge and DDB Paris. Glenmorangie believes that their whisky is truly delicious and the reimagined packaging brings its flavours to the fore, an opportunity to welcome new drinkers with a playful elegance, which reflects creativity in whisky making; and to ensure their single malt stands out by using bold colours and enhanced branding. The new packaging is fully recyclable and comes with a guarantee that the pulp used in the carton comes from well-managed forests. While the whisky inside remains unchanged, the new labels are distinctly different with the hopes that the bottles will better stand out on the shelves, with brighter, bolder colorus and large-sized text.
The three entries in the scotch brands core range that have been affected by the change are the 10-year Original, 12-year Lasanta and 14-year Quinta Ruban. The 10-year-old Original has always been the bestseller in the range, and its new label is designed to appeal to a younger audience. The 12-year Lasanta and 14-year Quinta Ruban are both premium expressions, and their new labels reflect this with a more modernised look. The orange colour used for The Original’s design is based on the 10-year-old whisky’s notes of orange, honey and peach. The red carton for 12-year-old Lasanta was inspired by the ‘rich, spicy sweetness’ of the liquid and the hues of a sunset while the packaging for 14-year-old Quinta Ruban is green to showcase the ‘bold and velvety whisky’s forest-like depths’. The refreshed packaging includes a more ‘elegant’ bottle shape, with wider shoulders, a tapered neck and stopper, and a swirled detail inspired by Glenmorangie’s Signet icon on the base. The carton and labels have also been updated to ensure they stand out on shelves, featuring ‘vivid’ colours to reflect the flavours of each whisky. The new design includes curving lines that run through the packaging to reflect the fluidity of the liquid, the wood used to age Glenmorangie and the distillery’s surroundings.
Glenmorangie’s Fight for its Name
The Glenmorangie name comes from the Gaelic words gleann mor na sith and translates to “glen of tranquility.” Fittingly, the phrase was also used as the brand’s promotion slogan for several years. In 2003, the company was hit with a formal complaint by an anonymous individual from Midlothian claiming that it was misrepresenting the language. The unidentified subject claimed that the true meaning of Glenmorangie loosely translated to “a big valley with a meadow of water.” Not to be budged, Glenmorangie refuted the claim and stated that the translation of Glenmorangie depended on the perceived root of the word. In the end, the brand was awarded the right to claim “glen of tranquility,” though it has since moved on to newer marketing approaches.
Their Attitude towards Casks
Under Dr Lumsden, Glenmorangie has been an industry leader in researching the ways in which wood impacts whisky maturation, blazing a trail on truly exceptional cask-finished whisky, his insistence on slow growth, air-seasoned Ozark Mountain oak barrels that were first used as Bourbon-whisky casks for instance. While other distilleries might use the same casks as many as six times, Glenmorangie’s practice has evolved to use casks only twice in order to retain the fullest flavour for a whisky of exceptional depth and complexity.
The Giraffe Gift Tins
Glenmorangie has introduced a special edition packaging called the Giftable Giraffe Tins. These tins are designed to celebrate the height of Glenmorangie’s stills, the tallest in Scotland. The giraffe-themed tins are not only visually appealing but also support a good cause, with each purchase contributing to the Giraffe Conservation Foundation.
The Giftable Giraffe Tins include:
Glenmorangie Original 10 YO: This is the distillery’s flagship expression, known for its mellow and delicate flavours, matured in ex-bourbon casks.
Glenmorangie Lasanta 12 YO: A rich and full-bodied single malt, aged in sherry casks for an additional layer of sweetness and spice.
Glenmorangie Quinta Ruban 14YO: A darker, more intense whisky, finished in port casks, offering a complex mix of chocolate and fruit notes.
These tins make for a beautiful and meaningful gift, perfect for whisky enthusiasts and those who appreciate unique packaging with a purpose.
LVMH turns Glenmorangie from a Niche whisky into a Global Brand
Glenmorangie was one of the original single malt Scotch whiskies, albeit little-known in the early days. Glenfiddich and The Glenlivet ruled the small roost. The producers thought there was no market for single malts. Blended whisky was where the money had been for more than a century, and they needed the malts to give the blends their distinctive flavour profiles. Yet, Glenmorangie had just one iteration, the bottling now known as Glenmorangie “The Original” 10 Year Old, and it was one of a handful of single malts one could find in specialty shops in Edinburgh and London (Milroy’s whisky shop in Soho.)
A SAMPLE OF THE OLDER EXPRESSIONS |
In the early ’90s interest in single malts took off globally, and has been growing rapidly since. But Glenmorangie was not really positioned to capitalise on its established reputation; as a partly family owned, partly publicly traded, company it didn’t have the resources to take advantage of this expanding market for single malt Scotch.
Until, that is, in 2004, when it was bought by French luxury goods giant Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy, presumably in order to add a high-class Scotch to its portfolio of wines and spirits, and everything changed. LVMH has been very clever in upgrading Glenmorangie’s image, and its presence on the world whisky stage, without in any way diminishing the product in the bottle, the whole object of the exercise. Glenmorangie has always been successful in Scotland where it’s been the best-selling malt for decades, but it’s hard labour in wider markets.
According to Dr Lumsden, what has changed is two-fold. Firstly, he suddenly had a lot more money to invest in the distillery, in buying new cask types and doing all the things he couldn’t quite do before, an investment upfront by allowing him to innovate and experiment. Then, they’ve taken the brand onto a truly global platform. The area Glenmorangie always had a problem with was global distribution, and now they have that.
Glenmorangie has benefited hugely from the LVMH distribution network because before them, they just didn’t have that network around the world to get Glenmorangie into the best places. They had a network of very independent distributors, but now they have the firepower of one of the world’s leading distribution companies sitting within a fantastic portfolio.
The change most obvious to the consumer is the new bottles, introduced in 2007 and given a further fresh outlook in 2021-22. The pre-LVMH bottles were very traditional and monotonous. But now, with their distinctive, curvaceous shape, they set the brand apart, and are a far better fit for LVMH’s up-market identity. The 2007 redesign, the new and distinctive look, was intended to brighten up the Glenmorangie image so it sat more comfortably within LVMH’s portfolio of chic. The new packaging has allowed Glenmorangie to position itself as a very premium, very desirable single malt whisky. Much more expensive, of course. And they all have tall necks!
The flow of LVMH cash has also enabled Lumsden to double production capacity by installing more stills. They now have the capacity to produce 6M litres a year, and are running very near that, the shortfall being due to programmed ongoing maintenance and expansion of their new environmental project. There’s also the opportunity for cross marketing by incorporating Glenmorangie into events for other LVMH brands, though very sparingly, only when it’s considered appropriate. LVMH has elevated Glenmorangie to the fourth most popular single malt Scotch in the world, an increase of 60% since the takeover.
The Irish Tain: An Unusual Coincidence
THE RECOVERY OF THE TAIN
In days long gone, at a time that is long past, Guaire, the King of Connacht, hosted a huge gathering of poets. The King was famed for his generosity, but this gathering was testing his goodwill; they ate and drank everything they saw.
Now even in the hardest of times, poetry is regarded as a treasure by the Irish, but these poets had abused their position. The King’s brother Marban, annoyed that the poets’ demands and appetite had included his favourite pig, resolved to discredit them.
He declared that his servant’s wife’s grandmother was a poet’s great grandchild. Even with this remote connection to the art, he showed he knew more than all the other poets. He asked them questions they couldn’t answer and for performances they couldn’t deliver. Finally, he challenged them, ‘tell the most famous and celebrated Irish story, The Tain bo Cuilange’. There was a long silence. Then the poets had to admit that no one knew more than a few fragments. The story had been lost.
The chief bard, Sanchan Torpiest, resolved to recover the story, and the honour of the poets. The story had been written down in Ogham and taken by a bard to Italy. A band of Sanchan’s followers, and his son Muirgen, set off to seek this bard. They stopped for the night at Enloch in Connacht. Muirgen, exhausted, asked the others to go on and find a place to stay while he rested against a large stone. Alone, Muirgen noticed carving on the stone. The strokes and lines of Ogham spelled out the name of Fergus Mac Roich, hero of the Tain.
The companions returned to fetch Muirgen, they found the stone encircled in dense fog, so cold they could barely breathe. They tried to reach their friend but became confused and arrived back outside the wall of fog.
In three days the fog receded. Then they found Muirgen, elated. He told them Fergus Mac Roich had appeared to him, dressed in a green cloak over a red tunic with a great sword that had a pommel of bronze. The spirit of Fergus had told Muirgen the whole story of The Tain, calling up other long forgotten players to bear witness.
The band of poets returned and a crowd gathered to hear the story. The hall was perfectly still as Muirgen conjured up the Tain; they could hear Cuchulain’s war cry, smell the fires of battle, feel the cold steel of weapons, and they could taste the salt of Deirdre’s tears.
The story survives to this day, written down by the monks of Clonmacnoise.
Ogham stones are stones on which short marks were made in groups of between one and five notches, strokes or diagonal lines, usually on the edge of the stone. Each group signifies a sound in Old Irish, and they are the oldest surviving written form of the language which is still spoken in this area.
THE RECOVERY OF THE TAIN: AN OGHAM STONE |
Ogham is an Early Medieval alphabet used primarily to write the early Irish language (in the "orthodox" inscriptions, 4th to 6th centuries AD), and later the Old Irish language (scholastic ogham, 6th to 9th centuries). There are roughly 400 surviving orthodox inscriptions on stone monuments throughout Ireland and western Britain, the bulk of which are in southern Munster. The largest number outside Ireland are in Pembrokeshire, Wales.
The vast majority of the inscriptions consist of personal names.
According to the High Medieval Bríatharogam, the letters are named after various trees. For this reason, Ogham is sometimes known as the Celtic tree alphabet.