NO AGE STATEMENT SCOTCH WHISKY FOOL’S GOLD OR THE NEXT GOLD MINE?
As time and demand catch up with the declining stock of
aged whiskies worldwide, Master Blenders are bringing out No Age Statement
(NAS) whiskies that are younger than the whiskies they are replacing, but
decidedly more expensive. In Scotland, Ardbeg, Bruichladdich, Kilchoman and
Bunnahabhain from Islay and Talisker from Skye have quite a number of expensive
NAS Whiskies on the market, making the most of the peated-whisky boom. Benriach
and Tomintoul from Speyside are also into peat as are Jura, Edradour, Springbank’s
Longrow family and other distilleries, not only in Scotland but also across the
globe. Highlander Glenmorangie, with its extra-maturation, innovative wood
finishes and exotic Limited Edition Single Malts (SM) has more NAS expressions
than age labelled and adds a couple or more every year. These are just a few of
the 140-odd distilleries with 2023-24 NAS expressions in Scotland. The balance
has evidently tipped towards marketing at the cost of the consumer.
In 2010, Chivas Regal, along with Glenlivet and
Ballantine's launched a global campaign, “Age Matters… Look for the number.
Know the age. Know whisky.” But today, Chivas has the Ultis, Extra and Mizunara
Blended Malt NAS Whiskies to combat the JW Blue, Island Green, Gold Label and
Double Black NAS Whiskies, apart from those presented by the other two biggies.
Their Icon is more than three times the price of JW Odyssey Blended Malt. NAS
is evidently more than just an acronym and cannot be wished away by mere
pronouncements.
Chivas Regal started off as an extremely successful
expensive 25 year old (YO) Blended Whisky in the USA in 1909, a quintessential
symbol of early 20th century luxury. Chivas closed shop during Prohibition in
the USA (1920-33) and reappeared there only in 1939 as the most expensive 12
YO, nearly twice that of its competitors, prompting the unique theory explained
below. Chivas Regal 12 YO was the most expensive Blended Scotch in its class in
the UK post WWII, but at a drop in price to accommodate a clientele slightly
out of pocket due the war. The Chivas Bros 21 YO blend, Royal Salute, first
produced in 1953 using most of the aged whiskies left over once the 25 YO faded
into memory, was also the most expensive in its class.
The
Chivas Regal Effect: One interesting note from pop-economics/ marketing
culture is the ‘Chivas Regal Effect,’ which occurs when a product sells more
because the price of that product has been increased. The Balvenie 12 YO
Doublewood has seen a price hike of more than 80% this year vis-s-vis 2010 and
a 35% increase in sales. Since people often equate price with quality,
consumers, who otherwise would not have purchased a product, might choose it
because it is more expensive (and thus ‘better’ quality). Wine (St. Emilion
1982 @ US$ 220-2,200) is a good example of this effect in the world of alcohol
and LVMH in branded consumer goods. NAS whisky distillers were canny enough to
implement this concept, which left many consumers in an ambivalent frame of
mind, with some annoyed enough to hurl brickbats at NAS whiskies.
Glenlivet, which campaigned along with Chivas Regal in
2010, announced in 2015 that they would be launching an NAS Whisky called The
Glenlivet Founder’s Reserve to replace The Glenlivet 12 in Germany and the UK.
Pernod Ricard issued a statement: “The Glenlivet 12 Year Old remains, and will
remain, the biggest reference in The Glenlivet portfolio globally and the core
reference for the brand.” They added that some countries would stock both and
other countries one or the other. As an explanation, they said that they felt
they owed 'loyal fans' something new, a Long John Silver explanation, at best.
Their other NAS, the Master Distiller's Reserve of 2011 was a sell out. They
have, however, reverted to age stated whiskies, with a brand new 12 YO gaining
immediate global traction and their 15 and 18 YO expressions doing well,
competing mainly with Glenfiddich.
Ballantine's have two NAS Blended Scotch Whiskies, the
time-honoured Ballantine's Finest and the new Ballantine's Hard Fired, first
produced by Chivas Regal for owners Pernod Ricard in November 2016 to provide
their 'loyal fans' some novelty with a masculine whisky (??) Ballantine’s Hard
Fired whisky is named after the hard-fired finishing casks for this blend. The
whisky is extracted from its second-fill American oak barrels, which are then
charred by hard firing and refilled ̶ as soon as they simmer down ̶ with the very same extract and stored for 6-8
months. An interesting twist using a legal loophole: nothing is
added to the contents, which would debar it from gaining the sobriquet 'Scotch
Whisky', but the container is modified! All perfectly legal.
The furore stoked among some aficionados by the
preponderance of No Age Statement whiskies may no longer be sustainable, now
that it is known that stocks of malt whisky older than 11 years which had been
reducing by about 6% per year since 2010, stabilized at -4% since 2019, a
strange side-effect of Covid 19. Sadly, this figure is on the rise again as
demand in a more populated, richer andless cash crazy world increases. Such an outcome was anticipated decades
ago by prescient producers such as Ardbeg and Glenmorangie, where Dr Bill
Lumsden is the Master Blender. The increased demand for old age single malt
whisky stocks have left the whisky baories running a little dry, but it is the
perceived lack of transparency that has infuriated a few. The labels on the
bottles and the artistic presentations on the cartons have little to reveal to
those who believe that old is gold.
Diageo’s Head Of Whisky Outreach Nick Morgan agrees,
“There’s increasing demand for Scotch malt whisky, but it is a finite product,
and in the face of increasing demand, it becomes increasingly difficult to
guarantee a supply of aged stock.” Companies – including Diageo – are
responsible for the notion that age = quality: “When the rush towards single
malts occurred some 40 years ago, the easiest thing to create a credential was
putting numbers on bottles. It justified higher prices and gave them
'integrity'. The industry decided to teach people that age equated to value and
now it’s bouncing back on us. The bond of trust between consumers and distillers
is breaking.” That said, he thinks most critiques are based on ill-informed
views emanating from puritans who don't understand the working of the whisky
industry. Must comments are driven by impetuous ignorance. This is one factor
that I, from past experience, must agree with.
We’ve successfully been releasing NAS whiskies for nearly
30 years with Glenmorangie and Ardbeg and they are doing very well,” says
Lumsden, who has blended a plethora of successful NAS whiskies for both LVMH
brands. His theory is simple: if you have the makings of a good whisky, all you
need is good wood to make a good barrel or acquire a bespoke barrel. The Ardbeg
Kelpie, Corryvreckan, Uigeadail, Ardbog, Galileo, Supernova, Perpetuum, etc.,
from the Islay stable and the Glenmorangie Signet, Bacalta, The Tarlogan,
Dornoch, The Duthac, Companta, Astar 2017 and many more from the Highlands
distillery have kept their tills ringing while accumulating awards galore,
proving his posit. Their Ardbeg Uigeadail, a cask-strength multiple award
winner, reportedly has 6 and 15 YO SMs in its makeup, as I've heard so often.
Lumsden, however, states that it contains only 8-12 YO whiskies.
For Glenmorangie, he makes copious use of the Devil's
Cut, or ‘indrink’, the liquid absorbed by the wood during maturation mainly in
the Sherry industry. Nearly 60L of Sherry awaits the whisky in a 500 L Sherry
barrel finish, in a 2 YO Sherry barrel. He adds a note of caution, “Regardless
of what you are doing, young whisky in bad wood will be ruthlessly exposed.”
GlenDronach, MacDuff, Macallan, Highland Park, Aberlour, Glenfarclas, Dalmore,
Ardbeg, Tomatin, Balvenie, Strathisla, Glengoyne, Knockando, Bruichladdich,
Glenlivet, Kavalan, Yamazaki and numerous other distilleries are producing
excellent Sherry finish whiskies, both NAS and with Age Statement.
There is palpable fear among consumers that the arrival
of a new NAS whisky presages the death knell of a much-loved bottling:
Macallan’s 1824 Series spelled the end of the 10, 12 and 15 YOs; The Founder’s
Reserve is replacing The Glenlivet 12 YO in the UK and Germany; The Talisker 10
may soon disappear, now that the Talisker Skye has followed Talisker Storm,
Dark Storm, Neist Point, 57° North and Port Ruighe into the NAS market. Morgan
denounces the ‘rumour’ vociferously.
People from the industry like Morgan believe that NAS
whiskies were born out of necessity and make life easier for distillers and
blenders. The flexibility of producing NAS whiskies gives them much greater
creativity when producing a blended single malt – 99% of single malts are
‘blends’ anyway. It is undeniable that age-statement SMs and Blended Scotch are
increasingly becoming rarities in an NAS world. Almost 80% of Scotch whisky
sold does not have an age statement. All basic Blended Scotch brands rarely
spell out their age, although there are many that do, including
3/4/5/6/7/8/9/10 year olds and more. Almost all 12 & 12+ YOs do, barring a
handful. Also, creating NAS whiskies is one way of preserving stocks of aged
whiskies for the popular age-stated brands, a concept hard to digest, but true.
George Grant, Sales Director, J&G Grant, disagrees.
“Twenty years ago we told people what made Scotch whisky different from Cognac
and Rum, etc., and why we were putting an Age Statement on the label: We wanted
the customer to understand what they were buying. Of our 71 brands, only one is
an NAS (?). When we ran out of aged stocks, we pulled our 30 and 40-year-olds
off the market until we had enough. Compared to Cognac with its vague terms
like XO and VSOP, I think age statements have been a huge strength for
Scotch." So how can one turn 180° and tell the same people that one's
whisky no longer carries an age statement? The interesting aspect I foresee is
that in another few years, these distilleries will have aged stock again, lots
of it. How will they cloak this change? Rediscover age statements and put them
back on? Or carry on regardless, blending SMs in the €100-200 and more price
range?
There are many reasons to justify NAS whiskies, but in
some cases the whisky hasn’t come up to expectations in terms of quality.
Taking younger but good SMs and blending them with older ones is not a problem,
since technological advancements over the years have markedly improved
distillation and wood management techniques, but the whisky still needs to be
satiating in a market where the customer is king and has become picky and
demanding.
Reviews of single malt Scotch whiskies between August
2015 and July 2016 confirm that age is a good indicator of quality – but not
necessarily a perfect one. Whiskies 6-11 years of age are capable of scoring as
high as far older whiskies. In other words, age does tend to improve whisky –
but exceptional younger whiskies are capable of very high scores. “People
should make a judgement on quality alone and not be swayed by the importance of
age,” says Euan Mitchell, MD at Arran Distillers, a distillery that is just 21
years old and already pushing for NAS Whiskies.
I am not prepared to accept Mitchell's "summing it
all up" statement. There are far too many brands out there, veritably
slugging it out in a tight market, a major portion of which is reserved for the
VIP Brands. If NAS whiskies will actually help ensure the long-term survival of
those classic age-statement whiskies – I’ll gladly raise a toast to it. But I
cannot get over my nagging fear that there is bound to be the less scrupulous
distiller or private bottler who will cut corners. Such products that do not
meet quality standards dictated by their price must be brought to book. But how?
Who will dictate or define standards, as one man's uisge could be another man's
hooch?
Macallan is an active proponent of NAS Whiskies, so
I’ll let Ken Greer, the erstwhile Creative Director at Macallan who faced
derisive remarks on the introduction of the Macallan’s 1824 Series, have the
last word. He says that he gave his Master Blender has carte blanche in picking
out any whisky for bottling in every category. This is done when he feels that
the whisky is at its peak, like picking an apple when it is ripe, and not on
some pre-decided date. For Greer, Scotch Whisky was about exceptional quality.
It is about the integrity of the Scotch Whisky owners, distillers and
producers, who, as guardians of that precious elixir, make sure that the right
quality goes into the appropriate bottle at the right price point, whether it
carries an age statement or not. Nobody will try to hoodwink some poor soul.
That remains to be seen, doesn’t it?
By now you know how the type of grain, distillation and ageing
process affect the flavour of your favorite tipple. The science behind whisky
is a crazy and convoluted process that can make all the difference in your
drinking adventure. The lowly barrel your whisky is aged in plays a massive
role in shaping its taste. By understanding the science behind whisky ageing,
you can develop a deeper appreciation for this fabulous spirit.
Types of Whisky Barrels
There are so many options when it comes to ageing whisky,
it's enough to make your head spin! We're talking about different types of
barrels, each with their unique personalities that can impact the final flavour
and aroma of your beloved whisky.
The realm of whisky ageing is a perplexing and bursting
one, with a plethora of options to choose from. The most prevalent vessels used
for this purpose are oak barrels, which provide a porous surface for oxygen to
interact with the whisky, producing unique flavours and aromas. American oak is
the most commonly utilised variety, while Scotch and Irish whiskies are known
to be aged in American and European oak barrels.
But why limit oneself to the ordinary? Bourbon barrels, for
instance, are oak barrels that have already been employed for ageing bourbon.
The law mandates that bourbon must be aged in new charred oak barrels, and
hence these barrels are used just once for bourbon production before being sold
to whisky distilleries. This results in an unpredictable and exciting ageing
process for the whiskey.
The most common casks are made of oak, specifically
American oak, Quercus Alba, also known as white oak. Europe also has many
varieties of oak, also referred to as Quercus robur, Quercus petraea, Quercus
sessiliflora, Quercus pedunculata, aka European oak, English oak, French oak,
Slovanian oak, Polish oak, common oak or pedunculate oak. In Japan, distilleries also use Japanese oak, known as Mizunara oak (Quercus mongolica).
Put differently, there are approximately 600 species of oak tree present across the world, including hybridised versions. North America houses the greatest concentration of oak tree species, with 90 different varieties growing in the United States and 160 growing in Mexico (though 109 of these are endemic). The second largest centre of diversity in oak species is China, which has 100 species. An oak tree that produces acorns on a stalk (peduncle) is pedunculate; a stalkless species native to the UK is named the Sessile oak.
AMERICAN OAKEUROPEAN OAK
Both European and American oak are cultural icons, adorning
coats of arms, emblems, flags and pub names throughout Europe and America. Both
are hardwoods sharing the same scientific genus, Quercus. And, like all oaks,
both species reproduce with acorns, each carried in a shallow cup. But, to the
more discerning eye, there are a number of key differences between these two
types of oak.
White American oak differs from European oak in its
vanillin content and wide grain. A wide-grained oak imparts more flavour into
the spirit, and its high vanillin content lends vanilla, coconut, and spicy notes
typical of oak cask whisky.
EUROPEAN OAKAMERICAN OAK
Boasting warm, honeyed golden browns, European oak generally has a darker, richer complexion than American oak, which tends to
display a lighter tan colour with some pinkish and yellow hues.
European oak also has a more distinctive, wavy grain pattern with more prominent knots and swirls, providing character and rustic
charm. You may see some instances of burr, a unique and eye-catching type of
figuring. On the other hand, American oak’s less pronounced, straighter grain
pattern is more uniform.
With a natural product like timber, some variation in tone
is to be expected. In this regard, European oak is typically more consistent,
with tight grain — American white oak can display a greater variation from
board to board. The visual appeal of American oak is down to this colour
variation rather than its grain.
Most new barrels produced are used to finish and age
bourbon, as new charred white oak barrels are a designated requirement. After a
single use, the barrels are resold, often used to mature other spirits like
whisky, tequila, rum, sherry, etc.
As a spirit spends time in a barrel, it undergoes
incredible changes in flavour, texture, and bouquet. Depending on the age of the
barrel, the whisky will take on varying degrees of “extract” from the wood. The
younger the barrel, the more extract it will produce. Thus, the whisky (or other
spirit) will be more intensely flavoured.
Indrink: Then there is, of course, the Devil’s Cut, or indrink. This is the amount of spirit a barrel soaks up depending upon its porosity and period of holding liquid. A bourbon or sherry butt may hold a fair amount of bourbon or sherry in its inner recesses, but these are met up with in time by the spirit new in that butt. In the former case, most distillers try and extract the bourbon to the limit possible. Most distillers retain the sherry soaked in the barrel as it adds its distinctive colour and taste to the maturing spirit.
The extract weakens and passes on more subtle flavours and
less colour as the years pass. That said, even an older barrel has a powerful
effect on the whisky maturation process. Once a barrel has been used four or
more times after reconditioning in a cooperage, it is considered “neutral” in
terms of extract, but even a neutral barrel will add to the texture and
mouthfeel of the whisky. These old barrels are generally used for grain
whiskies.
Because of the evolutionary nature of whisky barrels and
since they are hand-crafted and individually charred, no two are alike. This is
why master distillers choose to blend whiskies from several barrels. Whereas
one barrel might be newer and have more aggressive flavours and char intensity,
whiskies from older barrels will provide balance and unique layers of flavour
that would not be possible from a single barrel.
The craft of blending whisky is based in tradition and a
source of pride for every distiller. Each batch can be as singular, unique, or
consistent as they want, based on their meticulously managed barrel programme
and masterful blending skills.
Moving on to other unconventional options, sherry casks are
barrels that have already been used for ageing sherry. These casks, usually
fashioned from European oak, are capable of imparting a range of flavours, from
fruity to nutty, to the whisky. Port casks are yet another type, being barrels
that have already been used for ageing port wine. Typically crafted from
European oak, they can give sweet and fruity flavours to the whisky, providing
a truly distinctive experience.
In addition to these, wine barrels offer a multitude of
opportunities to experiment with. Whisky can be aged in barrels that have
previously held a variety of wines, from red wine to white wine to Champagne.
The type of wine used for ageing plays a significant role in influencing the
flavour and aroma of the whisky, resulting in a truly remarkable and
unparalleled experience. Barrels that have matured other spirits are also used,
like Cognac, Armagnac, Tequila and Rum, among others. (See chart.)
So there is a plethora of options to choose from, each with
their own distinctive twist on the ageing process. Distilleries love to mix and
match different types of barrels to create the perfect blend of flavours and
aromas, so don't be afraid to buy a whisky matured in exotic casks.
Glenmorangie and Macallan experiment widely.
The Ageing Process
When whisky is first distilled, it's just a plain, colourless
liquid with no flavour or aroma, typically called ‘New Make’. Contrary to
common belief, all New Make is collected in huge metallic containers and hauled
off to either the chill filtration or maturation plant. New Make is then poured
into barrels, up to a pre-determined level and closed.
This is where the ageing process comes in to save the day!
It's the barrel that gives your whisky its mesmerizing colour and unique flavour
profile. The New Make is placed in barrels, and the wood interacts with the
liquid, creating a range of chemical reactions. The primary factors that
influence the ageing process include the type of wood, the previous contents of
the barrel, the level of char, and the length of ageing. Here are the steps in
the ageing process of whisky barrels:
Extraction: The liquid in the barrel extracts flavours and
aromas from the wood.
Oxidation: Oxygen in the air reacts with the whisky,
leading to the creation of new flavours and aromas.
Evaporation: A small amount of whisky evaporates over time,
leading to a more concentrated flavour.
Filtration: The whisky is filtered through the wood,
removing impurities and smoothing out the flavour.
Maturation: Over time, the flavour of the whisky becomes
more complex and nuanced.
The duration of ageing is crucial! Most whiskies age for at
least three years, but some are lucky enough to be aged for decades. Can you
imagine the flavours and aromas that come with that? The longer the whisky
ages, the more perplexing and bursting with flavours it becomes, but up to a
point. The whisky must be extracted while it is still drinkable. Non-stop
ageing leads to very low ABVs and the possibility of the wood jarring the
overall taste.
The whisky scene is a globally open playing field for
distilleries to get creative with their craft. Regulations state that oak must
be used for ageing whisky, but distilleries have the freedom to experiment with
a variety of different oaks to create unique flavours and aromas in their
whisky. And with the minimum three-year ageing rule and cask size limit of 700
litres, distilleries have the freedom to craft their spirits with creativity
and innovation, resulting in an explosion of imaginative and diverse whiskies.
The result is a whisky scene that's bursting with personality and creativity,
where each distillery has its own distinct character and flavour profile.
The Effects of Different Seasons on Ageing
Different seasons affect the ageing process of the whisky. First
up, the sizzling summer! As the heat rises, so does the whisky in the barrel,
leading to an intense dance between the liquid and the wood. The result? A
whisky bursting with more flavour and aroma than ever before! But the heat can
also cause more evaporation, leaving behind a higher concentration of alcohol
and flavours.
In the the cooler autumn/fall season, the whisky just chills
out in the barrel, quite literally! The cooling temperature causes the liquid
to contract, which means less interaction with the wood. As a result, the flavours
and aromas are less concentrated. But this just means you get to enjoy a more
laid-back and mellow whisky.
In winter, the barrel cools even more, causing the liquid
to contract even further. This limits the interaction with the wood, resulting
in fewer flavours and aromas being extracted. However, the slower ageing
process leads to a smoother and more mellow whisky.
Finally, we have the vibrant and lively spring season! As the
temperature rises, the whisky expands, resulting in more interaction with the
wood and the creation of new flavours and aromas. Talk about a party in a
barrel!
The fluctuations in temperature and humidity throughout the
seasons can also impact the wood in the barrel, causing it to expand and
contract. This makes the whisky move in and out of the wood, further impacting
the flavour and aroma profile.
In the end, each bottle of aged whisky is unique and
distinct, thanks to the magical touch of the different seasons.
The Impact of Temperature and Humidity
Temperature and humidity significantly impact the ageing
process and can have a considerable influence on the final flavour and aroma of
the whisky. The combination of different temperatures, humidity levels, and
seasonal variations can create a unique flavour and aroma profile for each
bottle of aged whisky making the ageing process both complex and multifaceted.
Temperature: One of the critical factors that affect the ageing
of whisky. Higher temperatures can cause the liquid to expand, leading to more
interaction with the wood and the creation of more intense flavours and aromas.
Conversely, lower temperatures can slow down the ageing process, resulting in a
smoother and more mellow whisky.
Humidity: It can also have a significant impact on the ageing
process of whisky. High humidity can cause the wood in the barrel to expand and
contract, creating more opportunities for interaction with the liquid. This can
lead to the creation of new flavours and aromas in the whisky. On the other
hand, low humidity can cause the liquid to evaporate more quickly, leading to a
more concentrated and intense flavour profile.
Seasonal variations: The changes in temperature and
humidity due to season can also impact the ageing of whisky. As the temperature
and humidity fluctuate throughout the year, the liquid in the barrel can expand
and contract, creating new opportunities for interaction with the wood. This
can result in a more complex and nuanced flavour profile for the whisky.
The Role of the Distillery
The entire process of making whisky, from selecting the
grains and water to distilling and ageing the spirit is handled by the
distillery. It must carefully manage the entire production process to create a
high-quality whisky with a unique flavour and aroma profile. Distillery roles
include:
Selection of grains: This includes selecting barley, corn,
rye, or wheat. The grains can impact the flavour and aroma of the final
product.
Mashing and fermenting: The mashing of grains and adding
yeast on it creates a mash that can be fermented. The fermentation process
converts the sugars in the mash into alcohol.
Distillation: The distilling of fermented liquid removes
impurities and concentrates the alcohol. The type of still used in the
distillation process can impact the flavour and aroma of the final product.
Ageing: Selecting and preparing the barrels that will be
used for ageing the whisky. Monitoring the temperature and humidity of the ageing
room ensures the proper ageing of the whisky.
Blending: The blending of different whisky barrels create a
consistent flavour and aroma profile for the final product.
Bottling: The whisky is bottled and labelled with the
necessary information, such as the age, type, and alcohol content.
The Significance of Cask Size
The size of the cask used for ageing whisky can have a
significant impact on the flavour and aroma of the final product. Distilleries
must carefully select the size. Here are some of the ways that the cask size
can influence the ageing of whisky:
Surface area: The larger the cask, the smaller the surface
area in contact with the liquid. This can slow down the ageing process and
result in a smoother and more mellow whisky. Conversely, smaller casks have a
larger surface area in contact with the liquid, leading to a faster ageing process
and more intense flavours and aromas.
Oxygenation: Smaller casks have a higher ratio of liquid to
air, resulting in more oxygenation and the creation of more intense flavours
and aromas.
Wood interaction: Smaller casks have a more significant
impact on the liquid, resulting in more intense flavours and aromas.
Temperature: Smaller casks can heat up or cool down more
quickly than larger casks, impacting the ageing process.
The Barrel Ageing Timeline
The ageing timeline of whisky can vary depending on several
factors, such as the type of whisky, the type of cask used for ageing, and the
environmental conditions in the ageing room. The general timeline for the whisky
ageing process goes like this:
Ageing for a minimum of three years: By law, most whiskies
must be aged for a minimum of three years, two in Australia. During this time,
the whisky takes on the flavour and aroma of the cask, with the wood
interacting with the liquid to create new flavours and aromas.
Maturation: As the whisky continues to age, the flavour and
aroma profile become more complex and nuanced. The length of maturation can
range from three to over 30 years, depending on the desired flavour and aroma
profile.
Peak flavour: At a certain point, the whisky reaches its
peak flavour and aroma profile. This is when the distillery decides that the
whisky is ready to be bottled and sold.
Over-ageing: After the whisky has reached its peak flavour
and aroma profile, it can continue to age in the cask. However, over-ageing can
lead to a loss of flavour and aroma, making the whisky less desirable.
The ageing timeline can vary depending on the type of
whisky and the type of cask used for ageing. For example, Scotch whisky is
often aged for longer periods than American whiskey. Additionally, the
environmental conditions in the ageing room can impact the ageing timeline.
Overall, the ageing timeline of whisky is a complex and dynamic process that
involves many factors, resulting in a unique and complex flavour and aroma
profile for each whisky.
CASKS CAN MAKE OR BREAK AN EXPRESSION
What gives whisky its unique taste, colour, mouthfeel and aroma? The barrel — more specifically, the inside of the barrel. You can
get all the steps right from the very beginning — the best grain, a pristine
water source, a flawless distillation sequence — but it’s the maturation
process that gives the spirit its character. And the barrel’s interior plays a
big part in that. This article comes up again in a later post.
In Scotland, the spirit must mature in casks for a minimum of three years to be legally called whisky. In this time frame, the
spirit is influenced by the cask it’s been matured in, which is why it is
important to understand how these casks contribute. Obviously, the longer the
time spent in the cask, the more the influence and hopefully, the better the
quality and final taste of the whisky. The type of wood used, age, size and the
previous liquid in the cask all matter. Different types of wood add different
elements to the contents. The innate qualities of the new make are given the
required finesse and final colour and taste by the cask.
Given the advancement in technology, it is possible to identify the different flavours using physicochemical methods. Even the smallest of variations can account for big differences in taste. That's how receptive our senses can be. Researchers measure the various substances like esters, tannins, furfural, congeners, lactones, etc., in ppm (parts per million) and are now reaching out to ppb (parts per billion) in a nanometric world.
THE WOOD
A wooden cask is a small masterpiece of craftsmanship. Although machines are increasingly used by coopers today, actual manufacturing is still done by hand. The planks for the staves aren't simply cut at right angles from a log, like construction timber. The grain direction of the wood must be taken into account so none of the radial vessels of the wood penetrates the side of the cask. Not only does wood contain annual rings but also vessels that lead from the core to the bark radially. The tree transports water and nutrients through these vessels. However, these vessels are inconvenient for whisky since they would make the staves leaky and allow excessive evaporation. Therefore the wood has to be cut in special patterns (star cut, mirror cut or rift cut) so the annual rings stand vertically. This is why far less usable wood can be cut from one log; a cask stave is thus much more expensive than a normal plank.
Yet another aspect has to be factored in- how the new make reacts with the staves of wood. Alcohol is insidious-it attacks from within, albeit at some micrometres per day. As it reaches into the wood, it meets both intractable and amenable wood. The alcohol slowly absorbs minute quantities of specific substances it can dissolve and integrates them with the new make. The more the reaction, the more the absorption. That said, the longer the stay in the barrel, the greater the evaporation as the Angel's share.
TIMBER AND STAR CUTS
These planks are then made into staves with trapezoidal vanes (according to the roundness of the planned cask). The newly made staves must then be dried until they reach a level of less than 10% residual moisture. This may be left to nature and solar heat or done quickly in modern drying chambers without affecting the quality of the cask.
If the casks were made from this wood, you would get a tight container, but the whisky cannot mature. From a maturation standpoint, the wood is still dead. Specific thermal treatment breathes life into the wood, as will be explained in depth later. The wood can be bent into the typical cask shape only with heat. The wood is heated up to 200°C in a big oven for approximately 30 minutes, and the firm wood structure is broken up. The cask begins to live in terms of maturation. Once the staves have been bent into shape, the cooper completes his job of assembling that cask.
A cut through a treated stave will reveal a red ring in the wood beside a charcoal layer of several millimetres depth, the so-called 'red layer'. This layer separates the 'activated' from the 'natural' wood. It is up to this layer that the heat has penetrated the wood and activated it for flavour extraction. Most of the flavours sit in this layer, the section right underneath the char. Liquid stored in deeper-charred barrels takes longer to interact with this layer, meaning the flavours are extracted from the barrel far more slowly. This facilitates a smoother character over long ageing periods. Whisky stored in lighter-charred barrels interacts with the red layer much faster, leading to a quicker rate of flavour extraction. This helps pack the whisky with sought-after notes over a much shorter ageing period.
Only oak wood is suitable for cask production. Soft wood contains resin, which prevents the cask from breathing. Other types of wood have congeners that emit unpleasant flavours, making the whisky unpalatable. Oak wood from trunks with an age of 70 to 200 years is ideal. There are two fundamentally different species of oak: American white oak (Quercus alba) and the various European oak species (Quercus general). American white oak grows faster and has a mellower, softer and sweeter taste with notes of vanilla and caramel. In contrast, European oak is spicier with full, intense aromas and more tannins and has a stronger wood input that is prominent on the nose.
European oak grows in northern Spain and Portugal. French oak is used to age wine and cognac. An American oak tree can be cut down at 70-100 years, while the slower-growing European oak must grow for at least 150-200 years. Five major factors influence the Whisky in the cask:
TYPE OF PREDECESSOR FLUID
Predecessor
Prior
Spirit
Alteration
of Taste
Colour Change
Bourbon
Whiskey
Vanilla, sweetness, caramel, creamy
Golden
Burgundy
Wine
Very fruity,
slightly sweet, slightly dry
Dark red
Madeira
Fortified Wine
Spiciness, light
fruitiness, sweetness, dryness
Dark, amber
Port (sweet)
Fortified Wine
Sweet, dried fruit, spiciness
Red
Port (semi-dry)
Fortified Wine
Lightly sweet, dried fruit, spiciness
Red
Port (dry)
Fortified Wine
Dry, dried fruit,
spiciness
Red
Oloroso
Sherry
Deep, dark, nutty, dark ripe fruits
Red, amber
Pedro Ximenez
Sherry
Very sweet, dark fruits, raisins, syrup
Amber
Fino
Sherry
Light fruits, sweetness, dryness, light wood
Bright
Manzanilla
Sherry
Salty, dryness, sea flavours, fresh, some fruit
Bright
Amontillado
Sherry
Sweetness, nutty, dry, fresh, acid
Amber
Palo Cortado
Sherry
Rich, sweet, dry, sweet spices, fruits
Brown
Sauternes
Wine
Sweetness, zest, acidity, light fruits
Bright to amber
Bordeaux (red)
Wine
Strong red fruits, grapes (wine), berries
Red
Tokaji
Wine
Light fresh fruits (citrus, mango), very sweet
Bright to amber
Ruby Port
Fortified Wine
Very fruity, dark fruits, berries
Red
Barolo
Wine
Fruits, tannins (bitter), dry fruits, heavy aromas
Red
Chardonnay
Wine
Lean, crisp, acidic, tropical fruits
Bright
Muscat
Wine
Floral , sweet, citrus, peach
Bright/red
Muscat
Fortified Wine
Very sweet, dark fruits, raisins, syrup
Amber
Rum (white)
Spirit
Sweet, molasses, vanilla, tropical fruit, almond
Bright
Rum (dark)
Spirit
Sweet, syrup, dark fruits, oak, caramel, vanilla
Amber
Amarone
Wine
Tannins (bitter), dry, raisins, ripe fruits
Red
Marsala
Fortified Wine
Sweet, complex, spices
Dark red
Virgin Oak
-
Vanilla, cloves, caramel
Dark brown
SIZE OF THE CASKS
The sizes of casks are awkward to define because there is no ISO standard regulating the volume of a standard cask. In the interim, a cask type taken as the baseline is the American Standard Barrel (ASB), which holds approximately 200 litres. ASBs are also the 'raw material' for the production of Scottish hogsheads, which hold approximately 250 litres. If you disassemble an ASB and use slightly bigger rings (hoops) for reassembly, you can produce casks with a bigger diameter from the same staves. Out of four to five ASBs, you can make three hogsheads. Since the trapezoidal shape of these staves is designed to contain 200 litres, you can’t make casks with even bigger diameters from them. The casks would eventually become leaky at the rifts.
There is another problem with the volume of the casks as the cask sizes are also a unit of measurement. Take the Butt for example. The normal butts come in sizes of 500 litres (132 US gallons). But there is also a measurement unit called a butt, which is 1/2 a tun and is 122 US gallons (477 litres).
Besides the type of wood and the thermal treatment, viz., the size of the cask influences the maturation process. Whisky matures faster in small casks since more of the content is in contact with the wood, as compared to large barrels. The exchange of substance between wood and whisky takes place faster.
In Spain and Portugal, European oak is made into casks holding 500 to 600 litres, which are ideal for the maturation of Sherry and Port. The Scots call these casks 'butts' or 'Sherry butts' and 'Port pipes'. Today more and more butts are made from American oak for financial reasons.
The following table shows the actual sizes the most barrels come in, not the sizes
of the measurement units.
Name
Litres
US Gallon
Imperial Gallon
American Standard Barrel /Bourbon Barrel
200
53
44
Butt
500
132
109
Quarter Cask
125
33
27
Standard Hogshead
238
63
52
Puncheon
320
85
70
Madeira Drum
650
172
143
Port Pipe (tall)
500
132
109
Sherry Hogshead
245
65
54
Cognac type
300
79
66
Bordeaux type
225
59
49
Barrique cask
225
59
49
Bloodtub
50
13
11
Cask Sizes Displayed at Edradour Distillery
Casks are also grouped by volume. The Scotch Whisky
Association has ruled that no wooden cask in excess of 700 litres may be used.
The breakdown is listed below:
There are major differences between the two primary
types of oak. American white oak grows in the east of the United States of
America and a few parts of Canada. The tree grows rather fast for an oak tree
and is therefore a bit less expensive than the European counterpart. Its wood
is very dense (770 kg/m³) and contains a lot of monogalloyl glucose. This is
later evinced as the typical Bourbon vanilla taste.
European oak grows all over the European continent far
into Russia and Turkey. It grows slower than its American counterpart and is less
dense (720kg/m³). It contains Gallic acid which is considered a pseudo-tannin.
This acid in combination with water gives the whisky a slightly bitter note.
The European oak has also a lot of other components that also add to the
spiciness of the whisky.
Mizunara oak is very common in the forests of northeast
Asia, where it is used primarily for high-quality furniture. Due to its high
density and thin fibres, the staves must be cut along the fibres, which never
grow perfectly straight. The Oak also lacks waterproofing oil enzymes, so much
more whisky evaporates during ageing than when stored in American or European
oak. Despite these characteristics, which make it much more difficult to use
for whisky barrels, Mizunara oak gained popularity for whisky ageing in the
early 20th century, because of the special aromas it gives off to whisky,
reminiscent of sandalwood, coconut and oriental spices, for example.
Maple grows in many parts of the world, including Eurasia, North Africa and Central & North America. With its relatively low density of 653 kg/m3, it is used primarily in the production of Tennessee Whiskey and is not used elsewhere.
CHARRING AND TOASTING
The barrel itself must be prepared beforehand. This is
done by burning the insides. While this process may relatively straightforward,
there are distinct two types of burning procedures that whisky makers use when
crafting their barrels: toasting, and charring.
Heat causes hemicellulose within the wood to break down
into natural sugars, resulting in toasty caramel notes, colour and aromas,
while oak lactones add woody, coconut-like notes.
When exposed to heat, tannins become less astringent
while oak lignin (a fibre within the wood) breaks down into flavour molecules
like eugenol (spiced/cloves) and, more famously, vanillin (vanilla).
Charred Barrel
When comparing the two methods, the fundamental
variable is the degree to which the wood is burned. Charred barrels, for
example, are heavily burned and resemble the remains of a campfire after it has
been extinguished. The interior of charred barrels is black and has much more
ash residue, resulting in a much darker colour for the whisky. As far as flavour
goes, charred wood imparts sweeter flavours like caramel and honey. The reason
for this is that the wood sugars are caramelised when heavily burned, and thus
they leach into the whisky.
Moreover, the carbon in the ash acts as a filter for the harsher elements of the liquor. Ageing whiskey (like bourbon) in charred barrels results in a smoother, mellower flavour.
At times, a barrel is given a number reflecting the
degree it has been charred to on a scale of 1-4, i.e., a new American white oak barrel with a #4 char. This “barrel char level,” as it is called, basically means the higher the
number, the deeper the burning char into the wood. There’s a lot of science around this; in essence, the darker the char, the more different the flavour profile and
the more colourful the whisky will likely be.
Toasted Barrel
Unlike their charred brethren, toasted barrels are
heated much more gently, resulting in a dark brown toast rather than a
blackened char. Toasted barrels add a bit more vanilla flavour to the liquor,
as well as spicy accents. Because the wood hasn’t been heavily burned, the sugars
haven’t had time to caramelise, making the whisky a bit sharper on the tongue.
Toasted barrels also do not impart much colour to the spirit, resulting in a
lighter shade.
Toasting is a slower process. It involves gently
heating the barrel’s interior over an open flame so that the heat can penetrate
deep into the wood, which mellows and takes on a dark brown colour.
REUSE OF THE CASK (FIRST FILL vs REFILL)
Oak casks are very durable and can contain Whisky for
many decades. However, over the years the aroma that the Whisky can absorb from
the wood decreases. The cask is leached out. Whisky that is stored in new casks, therefore, absorbs the most aromas.
In the first (1st) fill casks, the term ‘1st fill’ doesn't mean the original filling of the cask with Bourbon, Sherry or Port, but the first Scotch Malt Whisky that's filled into a cask. No work is done on that cask either. This way, the 1st fill extracts the strongest flavours from the wood.
Bourbon is mandatorily matured in fresh casks and is
aromatic enough to be bottled after only two years, leaving a still well-endowed cask. Scotch Whisky is matured in used casks, which have already been
used, e.g., Bourbon or Sherry. The cask has already released a large part of
the aromas. Therefore the Scottish Malts only become really good after longer
maturation. However, this also gives the Whisky more time to reduce the
alcoholic spiciness. Nowadays, this historically developed system is an
essential distinguishing feature between the Whisky types.
Casks are an expensive commodity. Therefore it is
common in the whisky industry to mature whisky in casks more than once. A cask
still contains a lot of aromas after ten years of Malt Whisky maturation and is
therefore reused for the next Malt. In the industry, they are called 'refill
casks'. Refill casks are reused for up to about 30 years.
It is natural that the influence of the cask on the
taste weakens progressively. It is no surprise if a whisky from a refill
cask has absorbed very little flavour - and also colour. On the labels of some
bottlers, you sometimes find indications like 'Refill' or 'First Fill', which
reflects the degree of use of the casks. This gives you as a customer an
indication of the approximate intensity of the cask aroma. However, it is also
common to add colour to whisky with tasteless caramel. In this case, the
influence of the cask is hidden.
It is more and more common to refurbish casks, as this
is cheaper than buying new ones. This brings out the oak aroma again. Sherry,
Port or Wine aromas cannot be reproduced in this manner. These 'rejuvenated'
casks make whisky very spicy within a short time. They are most often used to
produce NAS whiskies or single malts for blending.
Maturation in casks to provide taste, colour and provenance is one of the main reasons whisky is so widely popular across the globe. Interactions between the organic compounds in newly distilled spirit and the chemical compounds in wood produce a wide and complex range of flavours, and aging it in different types of wood can create incredible variations in taste. This is a crucial fact to pay regard to, since the raw make that enters the Spirits Safe has an obnoxious taste which has to be cautiously and continually nurtured, first to an acceptable and then to enticing taste. Evidently, whisky gets much of its flavour from the wood it’s aged in. If many different types are used, what do they add? The key points about whisky maturation are:
The number of times the cask has been used–the more
times, the less flavour will be imparted.
The size of the cask–the greater the
surface-area-to-volume ratio, the more flavour the whisky will get.
The time spent in the cask–more time means more flavour
extraction.
The intensity of the spirit–a lighter style will get
more influence from the wood than a heavier one.
CASK SIZES AND COMPONENTS
The bigger the cask, the longer it takes the liquid
inside to mature.
Barrel, 180–200 litres, also known as an American
Standard Barrel (ASB), is commonly used for bourbon. These are made from
American oak.
Hogshead, 225–250 litres, is made by taking part
ex-bourbon barrels to create one bigger cask. The Scotch whisky industry often
prefers larger casks for ageing as this allows more whisky to be aged in the
warehouse.
Madeira Drum, 600–650 litres, is made from French oak
and used for Madeira wine.
Port Pipe, 550–650 litres, is made from European oak,
and as the name suggests, is used to age port wine.
Sherry Butt, 475–600 litres, is made from American oak,
although some are made from European oak. Butt is the most common size used for
ageing sherry.
Barrique, 250–300 litres, is widely used in the maturation of wine and cognac. Barrique is mainly made from French Oak.
THE AGEING PROCESS
The ageing process can be broken down as follows:
The temperature in the warehouse fluctuates day-by-day
and during the changing seasons
The resulting pressure change forces the whisky into
the pores of the wood by way of the charred interior surface
The whisky reacts with air/water and undergoes a
chemical reaction that breaks down some of the organic compounds in the wood
Some of the ethanol and water evaporates as part of the
reaction and exposure to air causing the “Angel’s Share” to leave the barrel
The wood constituents and whisky diffuse back into the
barrel as the warehouse environment fluctuates
Convection currents mix the contents of the barrel and
the whisky turns darker brown as the cycle repeats
NUMBER OF FILLS
Bourbon must be aged in new oak, so when whisky is aged
in a 1st fill ex-bourbon barrel, this means it is the first time that malt
whisky has gone into that barrel after bourbon. In this case, the whisky will
be heavily influenced by the wood, and therefore the spirit is only left in the
barrel for a short period to avoid heavy wood influence. This can be around
five years.
In Scotland, the same cask can be used for years and
years, although it is uncommon for the cask to be refilled more than three
times. So obviously, after the 1st fill you will have a 2nd fill, which
averages around eight to twelve years, and, confusingly, the third and final
fill is known as the refill. After the 3rd fill, the inside of the cask can be
shaved to show new wood before re-toasting and charring.
Some distilleries will even put a cask back into
service for a fourth filling, depending on the spirit and intended
purpose.5th and 6th fill casks definitely
exist, but it’s considered uncool to talk about them. Most of them land up in the
three-year grain whisky maturation process.
With the massive boom in the whisky industry and demand
for casks at an all-time high – plus the cost of casks increasing accordingly –
tired casks that might once have been discarded are now being rejuvenated to
get a second lease on life. The internal
surface of the cask is scraped back to fresh wood, then re-charred to
re-instate the all-important charcoal filter. “De-char, re-char” is the common phrase and process in Scotland, and
many casks will also receive a level of toasting prior to re-charring, in order
to better break down the wood, release the vanillins, and soften the
tannins. An example of Loch Lomond techniques regarding 'Charring' will follow. Casks or whisky releases noted
as STR undergo this process, with STR standing for Shaved, Toasted, and
Re-charred.
Long-term maturation in 2nd fill casks allows the
magical interactive process to really play out without the additive process
becoming over-bearing or upsetting the balance. Single malts matured from 15 to
25 years in 2nd fill casks produce some of the finest results.
Glenfarclas prefers 2nd fill casks, and believes that
the best Glenfarclas whiskies come from refill casks.Glenfarclas, of course, is famed for maturing
its whisky in ex-sherry casks, and the distillery is careful to ensure that 1st
fill casks aren’t left for too long.The
danger is that the sherry-influence would over-power and dominate the
spirit.Most releases in the Glenfarclas
portfolio (e.g. the 10yo, 12yo, 15yo, 17yo, etc, etc) are thus a careful
vatting of casks that combine 1st fills and re-fills; American oak and European
oak.Macallan goes down a similar route
with its Double Cask range, further introducing the influence of ex-bourbon
casks in its Triple Cask Matured range
MORE ABOUT OAK
Maturation of whisky in oak is a three-pronged action
that requires three different processes to occur.These three processes may be summarised as
being additive, subtractive, and interactive.They are worth elaborating on:
Additive: The cask will add flavour and character to
the spirit.Wood sugars, oaky notes,
tannins, the influence of the previous filling (e.g. sherry), and colour will
all be added to the spirit.
Subtractive: The cask will subtract certain volatiles
and compounds from the spirit, making it more mellow, softer, and
approachable.Casks are typically
charred before being employed in the drinks industry; the charred wood acts as
a natural filter that removes undesirable compounds such as sulphur.(As an aside, this is why the distilleries
that produce a more sulphury new-make often benefit from longer years in the
wood).Other volatiles in the spirit,
some of them undesirable, will be lost through evaporation.The “Angels’ Share” is the lighthearted term
given to evaporation, but it’s a serious matter for whisky producers in warmer
climate countries:Filling a 200 litre
cask with your precious spirit and only having 100 litres of it left in the
cask after five years is a challenging issue.
Interactive: This is where the magic happens. Certain chemical and molecular reactions
occur between the wood, the spirit, the residuals left by previous fillings,
and – most importantly – oxygen, to create new flavours/aromas. The casks breathe; the spirit oxidises; and
the oak and spirit transform one another. This interactive process can be where the different oak species produce
different results, as they vary in the nature of their chemical and biological
make-up: The differing characteristics
of the wood’s density, permeability, hemi-cellulose, lignins, tannins, oils,
lipids, and so on, will all impact the spirit differently. Despite the modern Scotch whisky industry
being more than 250 years old, commentators and industry professionals believe
that this third interactive process is only just now starting to be understood
from a scientific perspective.
Time is therefore of the essence, and due time is
needed for all three of these processes to play out.Three years is the minimum period of
maturation stipulated by law in Scotland, which was set as a minimum benchmark
for quality….although the climate and production regimens in Scotland generally
dictate that most whisky will take 8-15 years to peak.Climate and environmental conditions (namely
heat and humidity) obviously have a large influence on maturation –
particularly evaporation – and so different countries factor this into their
production methodologies and timescales.There’s a truism that whisky matures faster in hotter countries, but
it’s important to understand the difference between true, three-pronged
maturation and simply base evaporation and taking on colour.
Evaporation over time is a complex problem for
distillers, and it differs the world over, subject to the local climate –
particularly the local humidity.The
conditions in Scotland lead to the alcohol evaporating faster than the water
within the spirit, meaning that the alcohol content of the whisky decreases
with time.In contrast to this, the
conditions in Kentucky, USA, lead to the water evaporating faster than the
alcohol, meaning that the alcohol content of the spirit actually increases over
time!
One of the challenges for the so-called new world
whisky producing countries is to find the balance or sweet spot with their
maturation programs whilst juggling the many forces, demands, and financial
factors at play for start-up operations.For new distilleries wanting to bring aged whisky to market sooner and
bring in much-needed cash flow, there is temptation and a growing tendency to
adopt small-cask maturation in active casks to supposedly fast-track the
process.However, as many distilleries
in Australia have found to their detriment, aging spirit in 20L or 50L casks for
just over two years in ex-wine casks might produce a dark whisky that initially
seems ready to some drinkers, but the reality is that only two of the three
maturation processes discussed above have partially occurred:The additive and interactive processes have
occurred to some extent, but there simply hasn’t been sufficient time for the
subtractive process to fully play out.The result is often hot and dry whisky that is over-oaked yet
under-matured.
The situation is
exacerbated at distilleries who insist on using ex-wine casks that have only
been toasted, rather than heavily charred, meaning that their casks are less
capable of removing (subtracting!) the volatiles and other aggressive compounds
that maturation seeks to address.(Hence leading to whisky that is described as “hot”, regardless of the
actual ABV percentage.)
Fans of peated whiskies should also be aware that
peatiness decreases over time.The
phenol levels in the spirit reduce with years in the wood (there’s that
subtractive process again!) and so those wanting to experience the real “smoke
bombs” should be seeking younger whiskies and not necessarily older releases.
Only oak may be used for the storage of Scotch whisky.
There are two main types of oak used for barrel making and another two used for variety, i.e., less often.
BARREL
MAINTENANCE AT LOCH LOMOND DISTILLERY
The Cooperage And Loch Lomond’s Unique Barrel
Maintenance
Loch Lomond’s distillery owns its own cooperage,
ensuring that barrel repairs and charring are carried out to an exacting
standard so every cask is perfect for maturing the Loch Lomond spirit.
Coopering of casks is an age-old skill, the nuances of
which have seen little change over the centuries. Loch Lomond is one of only
four distilleries in Scotland to have their own on-site cooperage. Their team
of seasoned professionals and apprentices carefully manage the quality of all
of the casks to ensure that the whisky is maintained to the highest possible
standards.
An expert team examines every new cask that arrives
on-site and carry out repairs and maintenance on oak casks from all over the
world.They even rejuvenate casks using a
De-char / Re-char (DCRC) process. Each year, this team maintains and repairs
over 30,000 casks, which is absolutely vital in creating quality and
consistency in whisky maturation.
The De-char / Re-char Process (DCRC)
Many distilleries will have a cooper or two on site to
repair the odd cask, however when Loch Lomond says ‘Full service’, they mean
that the experienced team of 8 fully qualified coopers and three apprentices
will check every new cask that comes on site, repair any casks from Bourbon to
Sherry Butt AND rejuvenate casks using their DCRC process.
This whole process gives exact control over another
element in the production of our whisky – which creates consistency, quality
and allows Loch Lomond to really showcase their signature whisky style of
fruit, honey sweetness and soft smoke.
Most distilleries will tell you that they will use a
cask 3 times. But such are the capabilities within Loch Lomond’s cooperage and
their confidence in the experience of their coopers that at Loch Lomond they
can use a cask up to a maximum of 9 times! Three times for malt, the casks will
then come into the cooperage to be checked, repaired if required, DCRC and then
used three times for grain. Back into the cooperage to be checked, repaired if
required, DCRC and then a further three times for grain. Consider that if the
spirit is only in the cask for 6 years each time then they are using that cask
for over 50 years.
Coopering of casks is a skill that hasn’t changed much
in centuries and this is probably best reflected in the tools the team uses at
their stations. Coopering is a very physical job and the few
modernisations/mechanisations seen help to remove some of the most manual
elements – helping to prolong the career of a cooper but also protecting their
H&S.
What is De-Charring?
Loch Lomond Distillery was the first Scottish
distillery to have this set up and the first to install this type of de-char
machine.All casks that they receive
will have a level of char; most commonly, ex-bourbon casks come with a heavy
char. This machine uses a Stainless-Steel wire brush that rotates and is moved
up and down the cask as the machine rotates it (the cask). to the goal is to
remove the char from the cask whilst taking the minimum amount of wood
possible. This leaves a clean, consistent surface ready for a fresh char. The
char is vacuumed out during the process but a little is always left at the
bottom of the cask.
What is Re-charring?
The re-char machine uses a flame gun to char the inside
of the cask. Many factors impact how
long this takes and the skill of the Cooper is to use their experience and
control the level of char that each cask gets depending on what is required by
the distilling team. They char a cask for anything from 2-3 minutes for a
medium char up to 5 or 6 minutes for a heavy, alligator char.
During the process, the nature of the flame changes:
Beginning will often be an orange flame with a
blue/green tinge. This is burning of any alcohol in the cask
Charring – The team knows the cask itself is charring
when the flame is a full bright orange flame and they can hear the crackles and
pops. This means the cask itself is now alight. For medium char, the flames are
extinguished using a spray of water but for heavy char we will turn off the
flame and let the cask burn itself out.
Each cask that is re-charred has a chalk number on both
the top and the cask ensuring that when the two are reunited that the correct
top is married back to its cask as each top is a slightly different size and
fit. They often re-char dozens of casks per day and this is the simplest way to
keep them together. The casks are then taken next door to be finally tightened
and pressure tested.
De- char / Re-char Vs
Shaved Toasted Re-charred Casks
What are the key differences?
Loch Lomond does not ‘shave’ casks – the de-char
machine uses steel brushes, removing the minimum amount of wood required,
ensuring the integrity of the cask!
Shaved Toasted Re-charred casks have historically been
ex-wine; ALL Loch Lomond re-chars are ex-bourbon.
Re-char uses higher temperatures to caramelise the wood
sugars faster than the gentler toasting approach.
How The Cooperage Supports Loch Lomond’s Unique Whisky Character
Having one’s own Cooperage has two main benefits. First
and foremost – it's all about quality. Having a team of dedicated coopers
managing casks means that the Master Blender can ensure more consistent
maturation year on year to maintain the signature style of Loch Lomond.
Secondly, it helps in innovation and flavour creation. Steam & Fire for
example uses heavily charred casks to impart additional sweetness into the
whisky – something they do using the skill and craft of the cooperage to
elevate the signature character of Loch Lomond Whisky.