NET ZERO HYDROGEN WHISKY DISTILLING

 GREEN DISTILLATION
Beam Suntory and Supercritical LEAD THE WAY 

In 2021, the WhiskHy project received green innovation project funding from the UK government to carry out feasibility studies for green hydrogen-based decarbonization technology at Beam Suntory-owned distilleries. The funding was awarded through the Green Distilleries competition, which forms part of the Department for Energy Security & Net Zero’s ‘Net Zero Innovation Portfolio’, with the project having made considerable advancements towards zero emission distilling at an industrial scale.

WHAT IS GREEN DISTILLING IN THE WORLD OF SCOTCH?

Whisky has been produced in Scotland for centuries. But with the Scottish Government setting ambitious net zero emissions targets, production methods are evolving for whisky. New projects to decarbonise the industry powered by green hydrogen are gaining traction and offer an exciting future for this historic industry.

Scotland's whisky industry is worth £6.2 billion to the Scottish economy a year. It accounts for more than 25% of the UK’s total food and drink exports. However, production on this scale also requires huge amounts of energy. Scotland’s 148 distilleries consume around 3.7 terawatt hours (TWh) of energy every year.

 While the Scottish Government aims to reach net zero by 2045, the whisky industry seeks to get there five years earlier. To decarbonise by 2040, distilleries must harness zero-emission energy sources. A key solution in this transition will be hydrogen.

 The UK Government has acknowledged the importance of the whisky industry and its switch to clean energy by funding several notable hydrogen projects. Such funding is vital considering the high expense involved with developing this new energy source. Crucially, costs are expected to fall as demand grows.

Clean hydrogen technology could enable the reintroduction of more traditional processes in whisky production. Direct firing boils the whisky to temperatures as high as 1,000°C. However, this process has been abandoned by many distilleries due to the high carbon impact. Nevertheless, using such intense heat results in increased chemical reactions in the liquid, deepening the flavour profile of the finished whisky.

It is believed that achieving these intense temperatures with hydrogen for direct firing processes would improve the taste of whisky. In fact, hydrogen can burn even hotter than the methane traditionally used in the distilling process. Japan’s Beam Suntory expects that achieving higher temperatures in direct firing will further enhance the rich character of its whiskies.

The achievement made at the Yamazaki distillery’s pilot distillery in Japan, marks positive progress for the ‘WhiskHy’ project, funded by UK government’s Green Distilleries Competition. Beam Suntory and Supercritical Solutions Ltd (Supercritical) are celebrating a milestone moment for the WhiskHy project as trials prove that hydrogen is a viable fuel source for direct-fired distillation. The successful trial is a world-first achievement in hydrogen distilling for whisky production.

As part of its Proof Positive sustainability strategy, Beam Suntory says it is committed to achieving net-zero carbon emissions across its entire value chain by 2040 and pursuing innovative green technology across its global distilleries to do so. This ambition provided a unique opportunity to partner with Suntory’s Yamazaki team in Japan to carry out the trial at its pilot distillery, which is specifically designed to carry out the innovative research and development.

The successful trial used 100% hydrogen to directly heat the still. A part of the distilled spirit will be casked in Scotland at the Glen Garioch distillery, where it will be quality assessed as it matures. The Glen Garioch distillery recently underwent a £6 million renovation project to reinstate traditional malting floors and a direct-fired still.

‘Direct-firing’ is regarded as a traditional method of distilling, by which a direct flame is used rather than indirect heating by steam coils. This process is key to the WhiskHy project, as it offers the potential to cut carbon emissions by up to 100% if using green hydrogen, thus rendering the process net-zero. Through associated maillard reactions, direct-firing can also enhance spirit quality and depth of character, as evidenced at the Glen Garioch distillery.

As part of Project WhiskHy, Supercritical has advanced its proprietary technology, the first ever ultra-efficient, high pressure electrolyser, which would enable a distillery to produce and store hydrogen on site, powered by local renewable power sources. The development of Supercritical’s electrolyser recently reached a milestone of its own: the establishment of its green hydrogen demonstrator in northeast England, an essential step in the journey to commercial scale deployment.

The WhiskHy project at Beam Suntory’s renowned Yamazaki distillery has been a testament to the engineering prowess and dedication to net zero innovation within the group. This landmark trial not only marks a significant stride in hydrogen fuel advancement but also sets the stage for ongoing progress and collaboration. Their partnership is poised to remove the premium of green hydrogen, leveraging our cutting-edge technology for a sustainable future.”

Beam Suntory is intent on pushing the boundaries of green innovation, with an ambition to achieve net zero emissions across its entire value chain by 2040, and it is through unique collaborative projects such as WhiskHy that they will get there. Thrilled at this new milestone, they look forward to continuing progress with Supercritical in the pursuit of a more sustainable, resilient future for the industry.

The exciting technologies have the potential to kickstart a new clean green whisky industry. The UK has backed the project with £2.9 million in government support, helping businesses seize the opportunities of hydrogen and cut their emissions on the journey to net zero. As for Suntory Spirits Ltd, they have been striving since 1923 to craft such a possibility with a relentless pursuit of perfection and persistent innovation. The whisky business embodies Suntory’s philosophy ‘to inspire the brilliance of life by creating rich experiences for people, in harmony with nature, to coexist with people and to aspire to produce Suntory Whisky with a net zero goal while maintaining the quality craftsmanship of their whiskies.

BEAM SUNTORY ANNOUNCES REBRAND 
TO SUNTORY GLOBAL SPIRITS

Beam Suntory has announced that it is rebranding to become Suntory Global Spirits. The company says this reflects its evolution into a truly global leader across categories in spirits and ready-to-drink cocktails.

The new name is introduced as the company marks 10 years of sustained, profitable growth since Suntory Holdings acquired Beam Inc. in 2014. The company has grown significantly over this time period – from a US$2.5bn company to US$5.5 bn today – and its team has also expanded, now comprised of more than 6,000 employees worldwide.

The rebrand includes the launch of a new website and visual identity that celebrate Suntory Global Spirits’ focus on quality, craftsmanship and sustainability – defining brand attributes connected to and complemented by those of its parent company, Suntory Holdings.

Suntory Global Spirits demonstrates global leadership and premium position in the market, while enabling them to build upon the strong and positive brand recognition that Suntory has worldwide. The dedication that Suntory and Suntory Holdings Management have shown to advancing our culture and business growth – while also preserving the legacy of craftsmanship and interplay of traditions exemplified in brands from Jim Beam to Laphroaig and Maker’s Mark to Yamazaki – is extraordinary. Becoming Suntory Global Spirits is the natural next step in their evolution.

Now is the right moment to deepen the shared passion for the innovation and artistry that deliver incredible experiences through their products and fully unlock their unified advantage across our leading spirits portfolio. Since the acquisition of Beam Inc. in 2014, the company has gone through an incredible transformation to become an even stronger organisation, led by our shared values of Yatte Minahare, Growing for Good and Giving Back to Society.

The company’s new brand platform showcases the art of crafting the highest quality products with attention to and respect for the water and natural ingredients that are vital across its iconic spirits portfolio.

The rebrand is expected to help the company drive value as one global team and focus on key priorities including Scotch whisky,American whiskey, Japanese Spirits, Tequila and ready-to-drink, while providing flexibility for growth in the future.

EXAMPLES OF THE HYDROGEN ECONOMY IN ACTION

Other projects exploring the potential of hydrogen are emerging across Scotland. South of Aberdeen, the Arbikie Distillery’s hydrogen energy system aims to change its production methods. The distillery has added a 1 Megawatt wind turbine to supply renewable energy to an electrolyser that will produce hydrogen from wastewater. The project has secured funding for phases one and two from the UK Government. It will be led by Scottish companies Locogen and Logan Energy.

Meanwhile, on the Isle of Islay off Scotland’s West coast, the Bruichladdich Distillery project HyLaddie has also secured UK Government funding. Using grid electricity, the distillery aims to power electrolysis to produce hydrogen for a specially equipped boiler.

Even the most remote parts of Scotland are exploring the possibilities of this new technology. Green hydrogen is already powering several buildings in Orkney. The HySpirits 2 project will apply dual fuel technology to the Islands’ whisky industry. The European Marine Energy Centre, Edinburgh Napier University, spirits producer Edrington, and Orkney Distilling are partnering to develop a dual-fuel steam boiler. This solution will provide flexibility in energy sources while hydrogen production scales up.

INDUSTRIAL DEMAND FOR HYDROGEN IN SCOTLAND

Scottish business Cochran Boilers is preparing to meet the increasing demand for hydrogen energy. The company is developing a hydrogen-ready boiler to match the capabilities of the fossil fuel boilers it has supplied to distilleries.

Businesses such as these will be essential to the future of hydrogen as demand grows. Currently, a major obstacle to the mass deployment of hydrogen energy is high operating costs. But as demand rises, costs should fall. Many distilleries have chosen to produce hydrogen from renewables on site, for example using wastewater, which drives down operating expenses.

Another potential revenue stream is through the sale of biogenic CO2, a potential byproduct of the hydrogen process. Demand for biogenic CO2 is rising, as it can be used as feedstock in the production of alternative fuels for heavy transportation.

In addition, Scottish Enterprise is supporting the development of 13 low-carbon or renewable hydrogen hubs across Scotland. These hubs will allow distilleries unable to produce hydrogen energy on-site to access reliable supplies. New partnerships are already emerging, such as that between the Cromarty Hydrogen Project and distilleries in Cromarty Firth. It is hoped that the Cromarty project will have a daily green hydrogen production capacity of 20 tonnes by 2025.

Feasibility studies have also demonstrated how hydrogen energy hubs could power other industries in the Cromarty area. Industrial uses include local food production, manufacturing, and industrial heating. As clean hydrogen production grows, whisky won’t be the only Scottish product to go green.

 

WILLIAM GRANT LAUNCHES WILDMOOR FAMILY

 THE WILLIAM GRANT WILDMOOR
PREMIUM BLENDED SCOTCH WHISKY COLLECTION

In March this year Glenfiddich and The Balvenie owners, William Grant & Sons, unveiled 'Wildmoor' a new premium aged Scotch blended whisky brand. They announced a collection of seven whiskies aged between 21 and 40 years were to be released through 2024. Assembled by master blender Brian Kinsman, Wildmoor draws on more than 60 years worth of reserve stocks laid down by the Grant family, including casks from revered distilleries now lost to time.

The William Grant & Sons family has spent quite a few decades acquiring and meticulously curating an extensive reserve of rare, matured malt and grain whiskies from various regions across Scotland. They are too well established to try and create another blended malt; in any case, Monkey Shoulder is doing exceptionally well in the market.

Their latest venture introduces a new brand, conceived and crafted by Master Blender Brian Kinsman with the aim of offering a comprehensive "Flavour Map of Scotland in a Glass." The Wildmoor Collection is said to showcase a diverse array of liquids, not bound by the confines of individual distilleries or house styles. Additionally, the design of the range is artfully crafted to encapsulate the essence of the Scottish landscape, more specifically, around Glen Coe, a village in western Scotland. It lies in steep-sided Glencoe valley, in the Scottish Highlands. 

The area is known for waterfalls and trails that climb peaks such as Buachaille Etive Mor and Bidean nam Bian. Wildmoor thus reflects the rugged beauty of the Scottish landscape. Its bottle designs draws inspiration from topographical maps, evoking the many hills and mountains of Scotland. A blend of history and craftsmanship, this range explores the breadth and depth of Scotch whisky’s character as it has evolved over the past decades.

Aiming to shake off the spirit’s somewhat traditional image, the brand looked to Scotland's wilder side when it came to the packaging design. The brand opted for an aesthetic depicting Scotland's wilderness. Each bottle features a topographic map of Scotland’s Wildmoor.

The packaging design is the work of Manchester-based creative agency LOVE, who designed a bespoke bottle (Stoelzle Glass) featuring an embossed surface depicting Scotland’s Glen Coe region. Produced in cosmetic flint glass, the biggest design challenge proved to be the complexity and detail in the texture; the agency used high-resolution 3D topographic data as the base for the design, which was refined to a level of detail suitable for glass production. The bottle is a distinctive brand asset that is drawn from open-source topographical Scottish landscape models–a literal slice of Scottish landscape that captures the elemental textures and forms. The bottle’s neck and underside are debossed with the brand name.

In sum, they launched seven expressions ranging from 21 to 40 years old. Featuring both grain and malt whiskies in each iteration, Wildmoor’s range utilises ex-sherry casks with one exception that has been finished in ex-rum casks.

The full line-up is:

• Heather Valley 21 Year Old – Finished in ex-oloroso sherry cask. Exclusively on sale in Taiwan, SRP of £120 (US$152) per bottle

• Ancient Moorland 23 Year Old – Also finished in ex-oloroso sherry. Exclusive to China and Taiwan, SRP of £185

• Dark Moorland 23 Year Old – Another ex-oloroso finish, available in China, Korea, Taiwan and the UK at £185

• Waking Forest 23 Year Old –  Matured in virgin Scottish oak and ex-Sherry oak casks. On sale in Global Travel Retail only for £145

• Rugged Coast 30 Year Old – Finished in ex-oloroso sherry casks, on sale in China, Korea, Taiwan and the UK for £550

• Tropical Coast 30 Year Old – Finished ex-rum casks from the Caribbean. A GTR exclusive at £325, and

• Black Mountain 40 Year Old – Finished in ex-Pedro Ximenez sherry casks, available in China, Korea, Taiwan and the UK at £960.

The launches tap into a resurgence in luxury blended whisky within the market. There are exciting times ahead, so producers really wanted to play in this arena, and in this part of the world. So, to have aged, blended whiskies from our Ancient Reserves, it’s an excuse to try some of our whiskies normally kept out of bounds. They see the arrival of Wildmoor as an opportunity to build the company’s presence in a growth part of the market.

From their perspective, one of the key drivers is Scotch and Scotch blended whisky. Having locked down a major slot in the Malt space, this is a really big opportunity; it’s a really big space and they have the liquid…they’ve got the reserves, and they’ve got them sustainably.

So it’s really exciting to be able to come into that space with liquids of that quality and a brand that meets the really interesting insight of people wanting to escape from urban environments and reconnect with nature, a growing trend in lots of parts of the world.

The link to nature is mapped out, quite literally, on the bottles of Wildmoor, which feature designs inspired by the topography of the Scottish landscape. But the natural world, and Scotland’s various environments, are at the foundation of the new brand.

Master Blender Brian Kinsman was presented with this amazing concept of the Scottish landscape and if there was any hint of these amazing landscapes, be it the ancient moorlands or the amazing coastal areas or the mountains, what would the whisky taste like? That began this amazing quest and this amazing journey for Brian Kinsman and the team.

For them, launching a new brand with a strong story into the travel retail space requires two things: storytelling and tasting. It’s the storytelling and getting people to try the product that works.People have got to be able to see that there is something visually that’s appealing; that it’s a whisky. It sounds strange, but sometimes you walk through and you think’ oh look there’s some beautiful pop up’, but if you can’t convey to people relatively quickly that what they are seeing is a whisky then that’s an issue.

Brand ambassadors and staff play a key role in both introducing the product and getting it into the hands of potential consumers.

One of the reasons why people buy whisky is often for the story, whether that’s to enjoy themselves, or to tell that story to other people. Being able to, in a very succinct way, tell that story is key. We are very lucky to have about 140 brand ambassadors globally and so that community and making sure they are telling that story is going to be hugely important. Once people understand where the idea has come from that will resonate with them that idea of connecting a whisky that has come from nature.

In the UK, they launched three expressions, the Wildmoor Dark Moorland 23 Year Old, the Wildmoor Rugged Coast 30 Year Old expression and the pièce de résistance, the Wildmoor Black Mountain 40 Year Old.  

The youngest of them is the Wildmoor Dark Moorland 23 Year Old, a masterful blend marrying Highland and Speyside malts with Lowland grain whisky, matured in a marriage of American and European oak, culminating in a finish in Oloroso Sherry casks, enriching it with depth and complexity. Stats are 70cl / 42% / £185

Inspired by the moorlands of Scotland, this is a fruity 23-year-old whisky with puffs of Highland peat smoke. The blend comprises Lowland grain and Highland malt whiskies finished in ex-oloroso sherry casks, along with a touch of older grain whisky partially matured in new American oak casks to add a distinctive depth to the ensemble. Prepare your glass and indulge in the dynamic blended Scotch whisky. This amber-hued bottle is inspired by the rolling ancient moorlands, lush Scottish foliage, and unforgiving coastline, and this rich and deep tipple has been masterfully created to satiate the whisky lover.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Rich oak, dried fruit, vanilla and baking spices.
Palate: Sweet orchard fruit with layers of honey, toffee, tobacco, vanilla and spice.
Finish: Long finish with lingering walnuts, chocolate and dark fudge.

The Wildmoor Rugged Coast 30 Year Old expression, having basked in the embrace of Oloroso Sherry casks, draws inspiration from the rugged beauty of Scotland's western coastline. Offering a symphony of peat and luscious stone fruit notes, it embodies the untamed spirit of the region.

The 30 YO draws on Kinsman’s personal passion for rum casks, taking a blend of grain and Single Malts, aged in American and European oak casks and finished in rum casks to create tropical flavours with hints of pineapple and caramelised banana.

As tribute to Scotland’s rugged coastlines, it offers layers of complexity and rich bonfire smoke.

Product Details: Volume: 70cl at 42% ABV and priced £549.95.

Tasting Notes:

Nose: Bonfire smoke, sea salt, and vanilla sweetness.
Palate: Peaches, caramel, and spice harmoniously mingle with beach bonfires and cigar smoke.
Finish: Aromatic smoke meets rich stone fruit and spice for a satisfying and lingering finish.

The pièce de résistance of the collection in the UK is the Wildmoor Black Mountain 40 Year Old, which pays homage to the brooding mountains of northern Scotland, crafted from a robust blend of rare grain and Highland malts, with a touch of history from distilleries of yore.

Wildmoor 40 Year Old Black Mountain Pedro Ximenez Blended Scotch Whisky 70cl 46% ABV Blended Scotch Whisky £960.00

 The peak of Wildmoors range, the Black Mountain draws inspiration from the towering dark mountains of Northern Scotland. This extraordinarily intense blend of rare grain and Highland malts is enhanced by the addition of Ghosted Distillery stock with a minimum age of 40 years. This is a deep, rich, and elegant liquid finished in a Pedro Ximenez cask, before being bottled at 46% ABV. A towering peak of flavour, where vanilla and caramel notes meet an indulgent sherry richness.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Huge intensity here with vanilla, caramel, rum, raisin, orange peel and dried apricots.

Palate: Intensely aromatic with tobacco, cloves, cardamon, and camphor balanced with fresh and dried apricot.

Finish: Seemingly endless layers of vanilla, Brazil nuts and spice.

In Taiwan, there is the exclusive offering of Wildmoor Heather Valley 21 Year Old blended Scotch. This expression harmoniously blends Highland and Speyside malts with Lowland grain whisky, aiming to evoke the serene moorlands of Scotland. It undergoes maturation in both American and European oak before a finishing touch in Oloroso Sherry casks.

Meanwhile, available solely in China and Taiwan, Wildmoor Ancient Moorland 23 Year Old showcases a blend of Highland and Speyside malts, aged in American and European oak casks. This exquisite whisky culminates its journey with a finishing touch in Oloroso Sherry casks, resulting in a liquid that boasts a "rich oak taste complemented by the signature deep vanilla, mellow Sherry spice, and sweetness."

Completing the seven strong collection of Wildmoor Scotch blended whiskies is two global travel retail exclusive whiskies which they have just launched at Singapore Changi airport on 02 May 2024. This exciting debut comes to life through an immersive pop-up experience, made possible by Changi 1. Running until May 23rd, 2024, this captivating activation awaits travellers at Changi Airport Terminal 1 Departures (Transit), open daily from 5:30 am to 1:30 am SGT.

WILDMOOR AT CHANGI AIRPORT SINGAPORE

 

The first travel retail exclusive whisky is Wildmoor Waking Forest 23 Year Old Blended Scotch Whisky (£148), a captivating fusion of oak elements reminiscent of Scotland's lush forests. Here, Virgin Oak intertwines with Sherry oak, enhancing the smooth vanilla notes with a delightful infusion of rich sweetness.

The second travel exclusive Wildmoor and in contrast to the Waking Forest is Wildmoor Tropical Coast 30 Year Old Blended Scotch Whisky (£340), drawing inspiration from the picturesque north-western coastline of Scotland in the summertime. Picture white sandy beaches caressed by clear turquoise waters, crafting a tropical panorama. This exquisite whisky, finished in Caribbean Rum casks, unfolds with a smooth, fruity profile and a tantalising hint of rum spice.

The Wildmoor Black Mountain 40 Year Old will also be available from global travel retail.

Changi Airport travellers are among the first in Singapore and Asia to indulge in the Wildmoor travel retail range, initially exclusively available at Singapore Changi Airport Lotte Duty Free shops for the duration of the promotional period. The activation space promises an enchanting journey into the realm of Wildmoor, drawing inspiration from Scotland's untamed landscapes.

Guests are invited to immerse themselves in a biophilic oasis, embarking on a sensory adventure through touch, sight, and sound, all evoking the essence of the wild. The experience culminates in a gastronomic exploration of meticulously curated whisky and food pairings at the pop-up bar.

For those eager to savour the spirit of the wilderness at home, exclusive gifting options and complimentary personalisation accompany every purchase, ensuring a memorable takeaway from this extraordinary encounter.

From the end of May the travel retail exclusive Wildmoor whiskies will be available in selected airports worldwide, including London Heathrow (with Avolta), Thailand (King Power), China (Lagardère and CDFG) and South Korea (Shilla/Shinsegae).

OLD SCOTCH SINGLE MALTS

A MIXED BAG OF OLDER GOODIES

Prelude: A mixed bag of malts forms this whisky review of a select a trio of obscure curiosities that broadly sit within the traditional definitions of three of Scotland’s classic whisky regions. 

Glenlossie First up is a 1978 Glenlossie, bottled in 2003 at 25 years of age by Duncan Taylor. There’s much to commend about this dram, even if it does feel a little inconsistent and ‘patchy’ at times. A solid example of how Speyside whisky was supposed to taste 20 or so years ago.

A delicacy of character has always defined this rarely seen single malt. From the outset, Glenlossie’s stills were fitted with purifier pipes which carry any heavier alcohols which have refluxed out in the lyne arm back into the body of the still to be redistilled. It is the use of these purifiers which adds a certain oily textural quality to the spirit, while a long fermentation also helps to promote a grassiness in the new make.

It remains a major contributor to its parent company’s blends, one of the Speyside blending powerhouses, its four stills were increased to six in 1962 and since 1971 it has shared its site with Mannochmore. Other than Diageo’s Flora & Fauna series – where it is bottled as a 10-year-old – it is only seen off and on as a single malt bottling, mainly from independents.

Jura: Following on from that is a rather idiosyncratic and charismatic young Jura. It might be reasonably assumed that Jura would make a peaty whisky. After all, the island is smothered in the stuff. It was, however, built in the 1960s with backing from a major blender, Mackinlay, and at that time light whisky was what was needed. Jura, therefore, conformed to the requirements of the market.

Inside, Jura is a classic 1960s distillery – large rooms, a clear flow from a semi-lauter tun, stainless steel washbacks, and a capacious stillhouse with very tall (7.7m) stills with a capacity of more than 20,000 litres. Clearly it was not built solely to satisfy the thirst of the local populace. Relatively short ferments give Jura background rigidity – meaning that this is a whisky that needs time (or active casks) to open fully.

Peated malt began to be run for a small period annually from the late 1990s onwards. This was blended with unpeated in some expressions, as well as on its own. From 2018, the core range of Jura has a subtly smoky character, from incorporating a small amount of peated spirit into the vattings.

The distillery went through a number of names: Craighouse, Small Isles, Caol nan Eilean, Jura, and various owners without garnering any great fame until 1901 when it was among many to close in whisky’s first great sales slump. The cost in running a remote island site is always expensive, and a lack of direct transport to the mainland (all ferry traffic still has to go via Islay) also counted against its survival.

It was these economics which ruled Jura out of the distilling equation for over six decades. Then, in 1963, two of the island’s landowners, Robin Fletcher and Tony Riley-Smith, decided to start whisky-making once more – predominantly as an incentive to stop any further decline in the island’s population. With financial backing from Leith-based blender Charles Mackinlay & Co, the famous designer William Delme-Evans was hired and a large, modern distillery was built which was further expanded in 1978 to its current size. In 1985, Invergordon Distillers bought Mackinlay and from there the firms were folded into Whyte & Mackay.

As for the bottle under review, distilled in 1983 and bottled at 13 years old by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society (SMWS), this is a funky, austere, coastal and strange wee Island dram – one that might not tick all the boxes technically, but is never short of entertaining.

Laphroaig: Another of the Kildalton triumvirate, Laphroaig is a substantial distillery with seven stills and a capacity of over 3m litres per annum (that’s 1m more than Lagavulin and 2m more than Ardbeg).

Unusually for a distillery of this size Laphroaig has retained its own floor maltings which still account for 20% of its requirements. They have been retained specifically because it is believed that the Laphroaig kiln produces a more creosote-like phenolic character than the malt the distillery receives from the Port Ellen maltings. Certainly, a tarry iodine note is one of the signatures of the spirit.

The odd number of stills includes a spirit still which is double the size of its neighbours. As this produces a different character new make it is always blended in with those from the smaller ones.

A very long fore shot run means there are less estery notes in the new make, while a deeper cut means that heavier phenolics are captured compared to Ardbeg and Lagavulin. Its distinct sweet note therefore comes from the preferred cask type used – ex-Bourbon barrels. These, the distillery says, became the norm at Laphroaig post-Prohibition when Ian Hunter began travelling to the US. The effect of this type of oak is showcased in the Quarter Cask release where a vatting of younger Laphroaigs is finished in small casks. Some Sherry casks are in the inventory and are mostly used for longer-term maturation.

Finally, we have a 1985 Laphroaig, bottled at 15 years of age by Douglas Laing for the independent bottler’s Old Malt Cask range in 2000. While this one sits comfortably in the ‘southern Islay’ category, it still displays some charmingly subtle and lighter qualities, which  mark it out as an interim example of Laphroaig from a period when the distillery character was transitioning away from over fruitiness and more towards peat smoke and seashore characteristics.

THE WHISKY

GLENLOSSIE 25 YEARS OLD, 1978, Duncan Taylor

 Speyside Single Malt Whisky, 54 % ABV, Un-Chill-filtered, Natural Colour

Nose: A rather nice mix of soft, buttery cereals and easy, ripe green fruits. Lots of apples, kiwi, gooseberry, pears and star fruit. Also touches of green banana and pomegranate. Some heather honey, melon and lemon rind. The kind of super-easy, enticing, mature Speysider that no whisky aficionado would kick out of a tumbler. Water gives a slightly sharper, almost acrylic edge. Some light, freshly chopped herb notes and a lick of cardboard.

Palate: The ABV shows. A tad more aggressive on arrival in the mouth. Grassy, a little varnishy, notes of olive oil, hot cross buns, shortbread and slightly damp barley. Really feels like how malt whisky tasted in the 1990s – if you get what I mean? Rather a lot of milky tea notes as well. Some putty, cloves and digestive biscuits. Again, this is a profoundly inoffensive, easy and enjoyable old malt. It’s perhaps just not totally thrilling either. Water brings sunflower oil, cereals, plain toast and more tea notes. A tad grassy and more assertive as well.

Finish: Good length, lots of cereals, cooking oils, pollen, toast, buttermilk and more soft garden fruits.

Assessment: A dram of two halves. On one side it’s a little flat and flabby in places; on the other, it has some very retro and pleasingly nostalgic aspects which make you feel like you’re sipping an expensive bottle of whisky back in the rosy innocence of 1998. Right place, right time

JURA 13 YEARS OLD, 1983

Islands Single Malt Whisky 57.2% ABV, Un-Chill-filtered, Natural Colour

Nose: A curious and very ‘Jura-esque’ jumble of ginger biscuits, gorse flowers, chalk, beach pebbles and a rather grumbly and austere minerality. Hints of daisies, lychee, sandalwood, petrol and starched linen. Funny and nicely funky. With water it gets a little more floral and herbaceous. Verbena, lemon thyme, wormwood, marjoram and seaweed crackers.

Palate: Extremely oily and grassy. Lots of sugary wort, hot grist, kiln air, mustard powder, flint smoke and lemon cough drops. Punchy, sweet, peppery and slightly minty. Water loosens things up a bit with notes of lemon tea, bergamot, hessian, lamp oil and yellow plums.

Finish: Medium and rather fresh, grassy, oily and herbal. Olive oil with a touch of brine running through it.

Assessment: A pleasingly strange wee Jura. One that cleaves closely to the distillery’s undefinable sense of strangeness while also retaining a clear coastal aspect.

LAPHROAIG 15 YEARS OLD, 1985, OLD MALT CASK, Douglas Laing

Islay Single Malt Whisky 50% ABV, Un-Chill-filtered, Natural Colour

Nose: A pure and soft smokiness. Bonfire smoke, crab sticks, beach pebbles, mineral salts and hot steel wool. More of these suggestions of fresh shellfish, iodine drops, seawater and preserved lemons in brine. A rather direct and straightforward Laphroaig that leans towards modernity as opposed to older, fruitier styles. Water brings out sea greens, gorse, lime juice, disinfectant and slightly farmy qualities.

Palate: Very briny and full of sea salt and malt vinegar. Squid ink, seaweed, rock salt and newspaper ash. A slightly lemony and herbal peat flavour emerges over time. There’s a tiny glimmer of malty sweetness trying to escape. Direct and bold flavours overall, but the feeling that emerges is that this is a lighter Laphroaig. Water brings more of these notes of metal polish, soot, dusty malt bins, Mercurochrome and white pepper.

Finish: Long, ashy, lemony, smoky and with some mineral notes of clay, pebbles and seawater.

Assessment: A perfectly serviceable, medium-bodied old Laphroaig. The mid-1980s weren’t Scotch whisky’s finest era, but it seems there are still a few worthy examples kicking about. I like the overall sense of softness.