DISTILLED 2.81 TIMES?

 DISTILLED 2.81 TIMES? MORTLACH SHOWS HOW

Mortlach’s main claim to fame, production wise, is as the home  of the most fiendishly complex distillation regime in Scotland. Usually when you say triple distilled, you think of a lighter spirit with a delicate profile. The 2.81 actually stands for the precision in the way that it has been distilled.                                                                                                               Noel Moitra

  After founding a monastery on the Isle of Lismore in the 7th century, one St. Moluag went on to found two other prominent monasterial centres and schools of teaching in the land of the Picts at Rosemarkie and Mortlach. The village which sprang up around the latter was named after it, Mortlach. With the building of Dufftown in 1817 the old name fell in abeyance – apart from the distillery. The distillery was the first to be licensed within Dufftown in 1823. It commenced regular whisky production in the 1850s and steered Mortlach to a pre-eminent position as a blending malt.

Although no-one is sure where the unique disparate distillation regime originated, its adherence to richness and weight singles Mortlach out as one of the distilleries with a robust belief in the older ways of making whisky. Soon, it became known as the Beast of Dufftown.

For the 2.81 distillation, every part of the production process is tailored and calibrated to create Mortlach’s robust, savoury and muscular style. From the short fermentation (53 to 58 hours) through to the still house and the condensers, Mortlach uses worm tub condensers which are only found in fourteen distilleries across Scotland.

Mortlach distillery has 6 stills, 3 wash stills and 3 spirit stills. What sets them apart is that all of the stills are different in shape and size and they all work pretty much independently from one another. They don’t work in perfect pairs but create three different spirit characters from the three spirit stills which are then blended to create the house style.

The first of these is the pairing of wash still #3 and spirit still #3 to create a malty distillate. Wash stills 1 and 2 work as a pair, which is unusual. All the runs are split into halves, the heads and the tails. The first half from wash stills 1 and 2 are the low wines and the lighter half. These are run through spirit still #2 which creates a lighter floral distillate.

The heavier half of wash stills #1 and #2 is run that through spirit still #2 once but no cuts are taken. Everything that has been through the stills is run through a second time but with the tails from wash stills #1 and #2. The richer half and the heavier half get even richer and more viscous.

If spirit still #1, aka The Wee Witchie, is small and it’s filled high, then it’s a bit of a copper contact. Taking it around twice is not really cleaning it to that same effect, so no cuts are taken. Everything that has gone around that second time is run through a third time with the set of heads from wash stills #1 and #2 because by this point, it has become way too thick and way too viscous. A spirit cut is taken from that.

A spirit cut is then taken from spirit still #1 from every third run. Mortlach use worm tub condensers and the water is cold at 10 degrees, which means as soon as that vapour hits the copper, it turns back into liquid. So when the spirit is in liquid form, the copper cannot do its work, so every part of the production process is calibrated to create this character, and this has been calculated to be 2.81.

In addition to this, all the stills are run relatively speedily with no air rests to rejuvenate the copper and all lyne arms running into cold worm tubs. The result of this complex regime in a copper-starved environment is a building up of sulphur and ‘meatiness’ in the new make spirit, with the ‘dud runs’ on the Wee Witchie providing an extra meaty boost. Although it is aged in a mix of casks, Mortlach’s weight makes it an ideal partner with ex-Sherry casks.

The distillery itself only really gets interesting once you reach the pot stills, but there are other differences. Whereas the usual grist ratio in most distilleries is 70% grist, 20% husk, and 10% percent flour, Mortlach uses a ratio of 72/20/8. The reason for this, is that they tend to go for a clear wort, which is why they don’t want to add too much flour to the mash tun.

Most distilleries in Scotland produce a cloudy wort. It’s known to result in a spirit with more malty, nutty and spicy notes. With a clear wort though, one is more likely to end up with something fresh and citric-like. Maybe a bit of a lighter style in actuality, which is interesting, since that’s not at all what Mortlach is known for.

Their six wooden wash backs holding 54,000 litres of wort. The low fermentation time is just long enough to reach that secondary fermentation stage, but not quite as long as it takes to get a very fruity, ester-y wash. The Mortlach still house is truly something to behold. All stills have their unique shapes and sizes as stated earlier, complete with the variety of worm tubs that sit outside the still room.

                   

While other meaty spirits exist, like Benrinnes and Dailuaine, none have Mortlach’s weight, meaning that this is a highly-prized base note for blends. As a result, there has been little stock available for single malt bottlings bar the occasional independent bottlings (most notably with Gordon & MacPhail) and small batches of a 16 year-old in Diageo’s Flora & Fauna range, a much-loved whisky with a very loyal following. Mortlach seemed destined to remain a cult malt. Fortunately, a decision to start a core range did come from the owners in 2014 and a Rare Old, Special Strength, (both no-age-statement), 18 year-old, and 25 year-old range was bottled, to be sold out almost immediately. Today, a wide range in this family is available, from 12 to 40 year-old, with the odd NAS bottling. The 16 year-old in Diageo’s Flora & Fauna range from Mortlach seemed destined to remain a cult malt.

WHISKY AWARDS SEASON

 Cù Bòcan tops at World Whisky Awards Scotland 2024

Cù Bòcan and Tomatin have won Gold Awards at World Whisky Awards Scotland 2024, receiving the only Gold Awards to be presented in the ‘Scotch Highlands 12 Years and under’ category. This is a top accolade for Cù Bòcan, the experimental Highland single malt distilled at the award-winning Tomatin distillery, at the prestigious event in Scotland this year.

The Scottish regional judging panel announced Cù Bòcan, the recipient of the coveted title, ‘Best Single Malt 12 Years and under’, at the World Whiskies Awards Scotland 2024. Distilled in limited annual batches at the Tomatin distillery, Cù Bòcan focuses on unusual cask maturations.

12,000 bottles were released worldwide in May 2023, with the Cù Bòcan 12 Year Old Batch #1 promoted as a whisky of innovative complexity. Finished in Caribbean rum casks from Guyana and Barbados, this dram offers a fusion of fresh aromas including grilled pineapple, ginger and white chocolate.

Judges also awarded the brand and rhe Tomatin 12 Year Old with Gold awards respectively. Located in the heart of the Highlands, the Tomatin distillery is renowned for its elegant spirit and famous portfolio of brands, which has continued to captivate the industry and consumers. These latest acknowledgements further emphasise the distilleries growing credibility in crafting a remarkable range of premium single malt whiskies.

Tomatin Distillery felt honoured to receive this recognition for their efforts and the great teamwork at Tomatin distillery. In effect, Cù Bòcan’s triumph at the regional World Whiskies Awards reflected the essence of their pursuit of excellence.

Meticulously crafted with innovation at their Highland distillery, this award underscores their commitment to pushing the boundaries of traditional whisky craftsmanship as they look forward to the global stage at the upcoming finale in London.

The World Whisky Awards, a pinnacle event in the whisky industry, are a celebration of excellence. Cù Bòcan will now advance to the next stage, competing against those in other regions for global acclaim at the Global Finale, which will be announced in London on 20 March 2024.

Tomatin’s origins date back to the 15th century, with the first formal distillery established in 1897. Passing through generations of craftspeople working at Tomatin, many for their entire lives, the distillery is embedded in the community. Today Tomatin is renowned for its collection of smooth whiskies.

Whisky Magazine Awards Scotland 2024

A fortnight prior, the Scottish winners in the Icons of Whisky and World Whiskies Awards were announced in Edinburgh on 07 December 2023.

In the Icons of Whisky, Diageo was named as distiller of the year and Stephen Woodcock, of Glen Moray owner La Martiniquaise-Bardinet, was announced as master distiller/master blender of the year. The sustainable distillery of the year title went to Ardnamurchan, and the newly renovated Single of Glen Ord Distillery was named visitor attraction of the year.

Meanwhile, in the World Whiskies Awards, the round one category winners for Scotland were announced. Among the winners in the single malt category were Ardbeg, Bowmore, GlenAllachie, Glen Scotia, Holyrood, Lagavulin, and That Boutique-y Whisky Company, while winners in the blended whisky categories included Adelphi, Ballantine's, Chivas Regal, and Dewar's. Johnnie Walker was conspicuous by its absence.

It follows the announcement of the Irish regional results in the 2024 Icons of Whisky awards at an event in Dublin in November. The regional winners will now go forward to compete against those in other regions for the global titles in the Icons of Whisky and World Whiskies Awards, which will be announced in London in March 2024.

The World Whiskies Awards

The World Whiskies Awards is a highly anticipated event in the spirit industry. It brings together whisky enthusiasts, industry professionals and distinguished experts to celebrate the diversity and craftsmanship of the whisky industry. Held annually, this prestigious competition recognises and honours whiskies from around the globe.

This year the celebration took place in the Signet Library in Edinburgh. The winners of the World Whiskies Awards Scotland 2024 as well as the Icons of Whisky Scotland and the two new Hall of Fame inductees were announced During the Whisky Magazine Awards 2024 gala.

THE WINNERS

Cask Noir “Hector’s Sound of Islay” (Caol Ila 12yo): Category Winner & Gold Medal - Single Cask Single Malt, Islay, 12yrs & Under.

Voodoo “Blood Moon” (North British 13yo): Category Winner & Gold Medal, Grain, 13 - 20yrs.

Ecosse G 12yo Single Grain 12yo: Silver Medal, Grain 12yrs & under.

Cask Noir “Take It To The Brig” (Cameronbridge 12yo): Silver Medal, Single Cask Single Grain, 12yrs & under.

Voodoo “High Priest” (Orkney 8yo): Bronze Medal, Small batch single malt, 12yrs & under.

The event offered an opportunity to explore and discover new flavours, learn about different distilleries and styles, and fuel the passion for the world's beloved amber elixir. It served as a platform for sharing knowledge, and fostering a deeper sense of community among whisky enthusiasts

 

MEMORABLE WHISKIES OF 2023

WHISKIES TO LOOK FORWARD TO IN 2024

The Year Gone By

One distressing trend you’re undoubtedly already aware of in the world is rising prices. As the whisky industry continues to expand at a rapid clip, that trend is unlikely to reverse. In fact, the global whisky market is expected to be valued at ~$90 billion by 2027, a figure so large that it’s hard to get one's head around it. An analysis of some nuanced trends seen in 2023 may well be used as the basis of forecasts for the years ahead.

Focus on Sustainability: Millennial and Gen-Z consumers have now firmly established that they are willing to pay more for sustainably produced goods. These groups gravitate toward locally-sourced ingredients, which accounts for the rising interest in grain-to-glass distilleries. Premiumisation, or the rise of higher-priced spirits (another trend we’re likely to see continue in 2024), will ease the pressure on producers who face rising costs as sustainability initiatives demand additional financing.

Investment in Social Media: Taking cues from the hospitality industry as a whole, whisky distilleries will continue to expand their reach through collaborations with social media influencers. Short form video tends to outperform other types of social media content, and the creative marketers in the whisky world are sure to serve up some poignant stories in 2024.

Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion: Many whisky brands are already taking strides to create more diverse workplaces and combat the stereotype of whisky drinkers only looking a certain way. This momentum will pick up steam in 2024. If you want a business that will be relevant in 20 years, you’ve got to recognise that this country is changing, and has changed, and the younger generation wants a product that reflects their values. Innovation Through Barrel Finishing: Also known as secondary maturation, barrel finishing is a tool that distillers use to fine-tune the flavors of their finished whiskies. After aging in one barrel, the whisky is transferred to a different, previously-used barrel to take on some of its flavours and aromas. This practice is not new, but as consumers continue to demonstrate a taste for more complex flavours, the technique will increase in popularity.

Classic Whisky Cocktails in the Ready-To-Drink Category: Ready to Drink (RTD) cocktails are having a moment, with sales up over 225 per cent since 2016. Consumers are displaying a sustained openness to unique flavours, and Bevsource reports a 46 per cent increase from 2017-2021 in canned cocktails that contain botanical extracts. Expect to see RTD producers take advantage of this niche by spicing up the old classics. Whisky sour with ginger or mango? Avocado or Custard Apple? Let's see...

Glenmorangie's New-look Infinita 18 YO

Glenmorangie is celebrating the infinite deliciousness of its award-winning 18-year-old whisky with a bold new look and evocative name. Shining a brilliant new light on its luxury flagship, the Highland single malt Scotch whisky showcases the limitless flavours of Glenmorangie Infinita 18 Years Old. The Infinita 18 YO, Highland single malt whisky retains its signature flavour profile from Glenmorangie's characteristic distillation process and its maturation in ex-bourbon and ex-oloroso sherry casks. Its packaging has also been updated to a vibrant blue gift box with elegant linework and copper accents.

The latest creation of the distillery, Glenmorangie Infinita encapsulates every element of their house style in perfect harmony and is their most deliciously complex creation. A favourite with whisky lovers old and new, it seamlessly unites subtle sherry-cask hints and woody notes from its great age, with the distillery’s signature soft and fruity character. The result is a beautifully balanced single malt so multi-layered, it’s as if you are drinking a different whisky every time.

The Infinita begins with Glenmorangie’s silky, fruity spirit, crafted using water from its mineral-rich water source, The Tarlogie Springs. It is distilled in Glenmorangie’s giraffe-high stills, whose height allows more space for taste and aroma. For the first 15 years, this whisky rests in hand-selected American oak bourbon casks. Then, a portion is transferred into Oloroso sherry casks for three more years. Once 18 years have passed, Dr Bill reunites them in a single malt so infinitely complex it brings a wondrous new flavour experience with every sip. You might scent honeyed notes rippling across pools of caramelised orange. Or taste gardens of jasmine and lemon blossom, touched by the breeze. Or a rhapsody of warm, figgy richness and orange marmalade depths, warmed with a gentle spiciness.

There are aromas of honey, vanilla, narcissus and jasmine, and tastes of figs, dates, nuts, gentle spices and more. Fans of Glenmorangie 18 Years Old can rest assured that their wondrous whisky journey remains unchanged. Hopefully, as its new name suggests, Glenmorangie Infinita is deliciousness without end. It is priced at £130.

Roseisle 12-Year Featured As Roseisle’s Debut Dram

A part of the lure of whisky is the incredible history that goes into each drop. You are drinking centuries of craftsmanship in bottles that are sometimes decades old. Even though whisky has rich traditions, it doesn't mean the industry stops evolving. We're blessed with new expressions each year, and 2023 was no different. There has been a wide range of releases in the affordable and attainable class, making it welcome news.

The Roseisle distillery is a relative infant when it comes to Scottish distilleries, constructed in 2009. One of its key features is the ability to switch between different styles of spirit. Whether they need a light grassy malt or a meaty, sulphury style, Roseisle can create it by tweaking condensers and other elements. They can choose between steel or copper condensers for instance, and they can play with fermentation and distillation speed.

So far all Roseisle production has gone into NAS blends as the malts in waiting were yet to age into a double digit figure, so the fact that it is now on the market as a single malt is really interesting. One truly unique offering is the 12 Year Old (Special Release 2023.) This 12 YO expression is its first-ever single malt. Bottled at 56.5% ABV cask strength (113 proof), its first entry is an impressive one. Made exclusively in bourbon casks, both first fill and refill, one gets an expectedly high level of vanilla on the nose, supported by honey and a whiff of coconut. The body of the whisky is creamier than you'd expect for its alcohol strength, which is a pleasant surprise. Upon tasting, the sweetness carries through from the nose, where some fruits and spices join it.

Despite the high alcohol content, you can easily drink this on its own, but adding a little water to a glass is never a bad idea to find out what extra notes you can explore. This Scotch is gentle and smooth but offers a peppery kick. It has all the features you'd expect from a Speyside whisky, which is always a compliment. The finish is medium-long, and that spice stays through to the end but has a slight bitterness. Overall, it's a very impressive debut and worth exploring for whisky fans looking for something new.

Glenmorangie Captures Tokyo In New Limited Edition Whisky

Dr. Bill Lumsden’s passion with Tokyo inspires Glenmorangie's first part matured in Mizunara oak casks, with the whisky’s creative inspiration brought to life by Japanese artist, Yamaguchi Akira.

Combining bright, bold flavours with soft sweetness, Glenmorangie A Tale of Tokyo is a single  malt whisky as full of delicious sensory contrasts as Tokyo itself. Japan’s capital has always been a place of great creative inspiration for Glenmorangie, countering bustling streets with quiet gardens and ancient customs with ultra modernism.

A Tale of Tokyo is inspired by the memories, feelings and flavours of Tokyo and a desire to  experiment with rare Japanese Mizunara oak casks for the first time. In the whisky’s flavour profile, pepper meets bitter cherries and coconut, as mouth-watering orange zest fuses with incense  and sweet oak. On the finish, classic Glenmorangie flavours of mandarin, almond and  marzipan can be detected.

After a tireless quest, Lumsden was able to source a small number of Mizunara casks, which are known for bringing a very distinctive and unusual flavour to whisky. The resulting unique and bold flavours from the Japanese oak are balanced with Glenmorangie aged in both bourbon and sherry casks to create a delicious whisky that encapsulates the  juxtapositions of Tokyo.

To bring in the vibrancy of Tokyo to life, Glenmorangie collaborated with Japanese artist Yamaguchi Akira, who has created his own playful perspective of the city’s rich layers of history and culture in an artwork which adorns each  bottle and its packaging. From the Tokyo Tower and Ueno Park to Glenmorangie’s giraffe-high stills  and lush Mizunara oak trees, there are many intricate, hidden discoverables in his work, blending traditional Japanese pastimes with the whisky’s flavours.

A proportion of Glenmorangie spirit matured in rare Japanese Mizunara oak casks  shows how the influence of this wood is  incredibly complex and unusual; it required finesse and softening with Glenmorangie  matured in bourbon and sherry casks, and the result is a dram as full of delicious sensory contrasts as a trip to Tokyo.

Glenmorangie A Tale of Tokyo has recently been awarded Double Gold at the San Francisco  World Spirits Competition 2023. RRP: £76. Bottled at 46% ABV

Tasting Notes

Colour: Bronze.

Aroma: Powerfully herbal, with hints of toffee contrasted by incense and saddle-soap, followed by a resinous note and a touch of cedar wood. 

Taste: A peppery mouthfeel leads into notes of tangy oranges and bitter cherries alongside  fennel and chewy oak.

Finish: Long and gently nutty, with hints of almond, mandarin, ground white pepper and more  wood resin.

The GlenDronach Portwood Single Malt Scotch, 46% ABV

Once a little-known brand, The Glendronach, the winner, has achieved growing recognition for its outstanding single malts- the result of a substantially increased marketing budget from new owner Brown Forman, who has owned the distillery since 2016, and the deft hand of Master Blender Rachel Barrie, who was appointed to that post in 2017. The Glendronach is well on its way to becoming a classic and a must-have in any Scotch whisky collection. However, the retail price has been steadily rising, so it is better to pick up a bottle or two before the price goes even higher.

There are three levels of grape at play here in the GlenDronach Port Wood: Pedro Ximenez, Oloroso and, of course, Port, which is quite unique. Most of the time when a Port finish is employed, it’s done on ex-Bourbon spirit. The port wine in question is a finish, but unusually the whisky is first aged in GlenDronach’s typical combination of Oloroso and Pedro Ximenez (PX) sherry casks. The whisky is bottled at 46% ABV, without chill filtration or added colour, which is standard practice for GlenDronach and always a laudable choice.

This seems to be replacing the older GlenDronach “10 year” Port Wood, which had an age statement or the Forgue. The age-stated version’s label also revealed a 3-year extra maturation time in Port; this fabulously rich NAS expression has been enhanced by a second maturation for three years in Portuguese port casks. The result is wonderfully fruity and spicy with big, dramatic flavours. But it does betray youthfulness.

Nose: Piercing, delectable waves of fruit. All kinds of fruit. Dried, fresh, baked, jammed. In this glass there is vanilla custard, flaky layers of buttery pastry, layers upon layers of tropical fruits, and deeper in the glass are classic GlenDronach cocoa-and-caramel. Lovely, and assertive. This jumps right out of the glass, no need to dig.

Palate: Medium bodied (not quite syrupy). Cocoa powder, fudge, burnt caramel. Now the fruits are definitely dark and jammy: blackberry jam, fig newton, port reduction syrup. There’s also a slightly bitter charcoal note, and a background woodiness. Robust and flavourful.

Finish: Medium-long and satisfying. A little high-note of grape skins, a mid-palate lingering sweetness from the blackberry jam note, and mild bitterness. Evolves into some nondescript tart fruit (kiwi?) and fades dry.

With Water: Several drops of water improves the chocolate notes (fudge), while also reviving the fresh fruits notes that had languished while sitting in the glass. The palate is fresher, the finish sweeter. Try this first without water, and then add a little to see how it changes for you.

The San Francisco World Spirits Competition Judging Panel described The Glendronach Portwood as showing slight herbal notes, fruity, with a hint of anise/licorice and a bit of cinnamon.

Kilchoman Loch Gorm

For nearly 10 years, the release of a new version of Kilchoman Loch Gorm every spring has become a small event. Named after the largest freshwater lake on Islay, located not far from the distillery, with dark peaty waters abundant in wildlife, Loch Gorm combines the expressive peat at 50 ppm and characteristic citrus notes of Kilchoman with the woody, fruity, and indulgent influence of sherry.

This new peated malt from Islay’s bespoke Kilchoman Distillery is a masterpiece of blending. The whisky is hewn from 22 casks: eight 2013 barrels, six 2014 barrels, and eight 2015 barrels with a mix of European and American oak. The vatted whisky is just touched with local spring water before bottling.

Unlike the Bunnahabhain above, this Islay whisky is heavily peated. Only established in 2005, Kilchoman was the first distillery on the island in well over 100 years but has proved itself to be a worthy addition to its famous neighbors. The 2023 Loch Gorm has plenty of smoke on the nose but also offers hints of cacao to go with the influence it gets from the cask.

On the nose, the marriage of peat and sherry proves to be one of the most successful: a tame, dark sweetness of red fruits (blueberries, gooseberries, sultanas), blood orange, roasted cashews, leather and burnt brushwood. A vein suspended between land and sea runs through the aromas, of damp earth washed by ocean water, while with time the citrus and coastal notes grow and a slight hint of honey appears, with the acrid smoke of peat acting as a frame.

The palate is dominated by earthy flavours, with the peat and spice playing a prominent role in this rich expression. It confirms its all in all gentle nature (as far as the peat allows!), becoming sweeter and softer than on the nose with spicy accents (ginger, paprika, cinnamon) evident but not invasive and a pleasant oiliness. Black Forest cake with a moist sponge and spiced black cherry compote drives the nose with a lush vanilla that feels like it was smoked in the husk before baking into the cake. Dark chocolate and dark fruit support those tastes to give a powerful whisky, which isn't too overpowering at 46% ABV (92 proof). Fire-roasted hazelnut arrives with that dark chocolate next to smoked plums and dates with a whisper of old brisket smoker lurking in the background. The finish is long and memorable, with a touch of the salinity you expect from an island malt and a twinge of creamy vanilla custard with hints of poppy seed and pipe tobacco. As with Roseisle, this distillery deserves plenty of attention despite its young age. With it being one of the more affordable Scotch whiskies on this list, it's a great place to start for those wanting to sample 2023 Scotch.

Loch Gorm confirms itself as the most representative expression of how Kilchoman’s distillate compliments ageing in ex-sherry casks, a balance that borders on perfection while lacking (to be nitpicky) a certain depth that would send it into the empyrean of excellence.

Smokehead, Sherry Cask Blast Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky, 48% ABV 

Smokehead Sherry Cask Blast is a blend of different Islay malts that have been matured in a combination of ex-bourbon and ex-Sherry butts that are then finished in Oloroso Sherry butts for several additional months.

Produced by Ian MacLeod & Company, the whisky is a veritable “Sherry bomb.” The company describes the Smokehead Sherry Cask Blast as “a peaty Islay single malt that has well and truly earned its name. Blasted by rich, sweet, and spicy Spanish Sherry casks, it has emerged as a fiery, explosive, heavy-hitting dram.”

For over 40 years Ian Macleod has been a key player in the supply of spirit to European supermarkets for use in their own-label products but in 2003 the company became distillers in their own right, following the acquisition of Glengoyne Distillery. This was followed in 2011 with the purchase of Tamdhu, and they are now adding to their portfolio by taking on the rebuild of Rosebank distillery near Falkirk.

In 2009, the Smokehead brand found a new lease of life through a partnership with Classic Rock Magazine, becoming the main sponsor of their Roll of Honour Awards.

The brand underwent something of a relaunch in early 2018 with new packaging and a new cask strength expression dubbed “High Voltage”, followed later that year by Sherry Bomb, another no age statement malt bottled at 48%.

Smokehead has always demonstrated a very balanced portrayal of the Islay style, never allowing the smoke to run rampant. Despite displaying this dramatic coming together of big flavours, however, the bottling strength of 48% makes for a very drinkable dram – strong enough to deliver on the flavour yet not so strong as to singe the palate.

If one likes the combination of sweetness and smokiness in a whisky, then Smokehead is another must-have. It’s also exceptionally well-priced and is an excellent Scotch whisky value.

Old Pulteney, Huddart Single Malt Scotch, 46% ABV.

Old Pulteney is the northernmost Scotch whisky distillery on the Scotch mainland. Its seaside location has given its whiskies a distinctive briny/marine tang that nicely complements its traditional fruitiness. Savoriness is typical of Scotch whiskies matured in coastal areas. For many years Old Pulteney was only available from independent bottlers such as Gordon & MacPhail, but under the ownership of Inver House, distillery bottlings have proliferated, with the best-selling 12-year-old expression achieving strong sales in many international markets.

A distinctively smoky take on Old Pulteney celebrating its birthplace. Richly warming, this single malt embraces a mellow smoky character, whilst very much Old Pulteney at its heart. The combination of influence from the salt-infused sea air and the peat smoke make for a whisky with real character, depth and identity. The distillery is equipped with a single pair of highly individual stills, with condensing taking place in a pair of stainless steel worm tubs. Both stills boast large boil balls, and the wash still has a unique, truncated, flat-topped appearance. With a richness extending into its rich gold colour, this single malt offers much in terms of complexity and flavour while subtly reminding us of the place where Old Pulteney began.

After the discontinuation of Old Pulteney 17 and 21, the Wick Distillery needed to revamp its core range. That is why, a few months ago, they announced a new range that is already available in Europe. The first expression in this new range is Old Pulteney Huddart.

This is a NAS expression honoring the birthplace of Old Pulteney: Huddart Street at Wick. Old Pulteney Huddart has been matured in refill American oak barrels and ex-bourbon barrels. Later on, this single malt has been finished in ex-bourbon barrels that were previously filled with peated malt whisky.

The new Old Pulteney range shows the same bottle with a new image. The new label is more modern and elegant and it comes inside a box with a fresher design.

Appearance: Rich gold.

Nose: Rich and warming. Brimming initially with mellow wood smoke, honey and oily leather, blooming later into crisp green apple. Creamy vanilla and a hint of burnt toffee in the background.

Palate: Freshly-ground spices and soft vanilla balance the notes of smoke and peat fire. There are both richly sweet and distinctly salty coastal flavours in the background, together reminiscent of salted caramel.

Finish: Medium and dry, full of spicy notes.

Old Pulteney Huddart is a well-constructed whisky that at first sight might seem a little bit young (and surely a couple of years more wouldn’t hurt it). The floral and herbal notes of the spirit are really present, though some interesting nuances can be appreciated. The lightness of the smoky notes is very likeable: discreet enough, but also present. Also, sometimes it is nice to find whiskies a little bit more herbaceous.

Glen Scotia Victoriana from Campbeltown. 

Victoriana is a modern interpretation of a classic Victorian style Campbeltown Malt Whisky. It makes a superb introduction to the classic Glen Scotia style that will surprise and delight whisky explorers and connoisseurs alike. Glen Scotia has been a perennial winner in international spirit competitions of late. The Victoriana expression, a single malt whisky crafted in the style that predominated during the 19th-century reign of Queen Victoria, has been a particular standout.

Glen Scotia was born in a place like no other - a small town on the west coast of Scotland that was to become the ‘Victorian Whisky Capital of the World’. The people of Campbeltown are stoic and proud, and their whisky has always had a wonderful way of bringing them together in times of need. Glen Scotia prevailed against the odds where some thirty other local distilleries fell. Today it stands proudly among the last of the many, by virtue of the community spirit that defines Campbeltown. Glen Scotia is another Scotch whisky that has become a classic.

Glen Scotia has been steadily creating whisky for almost 200 years and remains extremely true to their heritage. Glen Scotia has maintained a traditional operation well into the 21st century, using their original mashtun as well as much of the original stillroom and dunnage warehouse from the 1800s. They put out a wide range of age stated releases but today’s review is of an NAS release that does things a bit differently.

Glen Scotia Victoriana is an interesting expression that sits in the middle of their standard range price-wise and goes through a fairly unique finishing process. The whisky is first matured in ex-bourbon casks for an undisclosed number of years before being split in to two different finishing casks. 30% of the whisky moves to ex-Pedro Ximenez casks while the other 70% moves to American oak with a heavy char. The finished whisky is then married together for a short period before bottling.

                           

Glen Scotia Victoriana is a malt that can really appeal to a bourbon drinker. Despite the fact that there’s a bit of smoke and coastal influence, it’s aged in ex-bourbon casks and features a finish in heavy char barrels which lends a lot of bourbony notes to the whisky. There’s also some “Campbeltown Funk” influence here but it’s not nearly as prevalent as your average Springbank. I think this drinks quite nicely for its strength. There's some good balance between fruit, earthiness, and coastal notes.

Talisker Distiller's Edition 2023

Triple distillation stopped in 1928. It has been a mystery ever since as to what style was made, but Diageo’s boffins believe it could explain the unusual configuration of the stills – two wash stills and three spirit. In contrast to most distilleries where the spirit stills are the workhorses, at Talisker the second distillation takes place in small plain stills, again with worm tubs. This adds mid-palate weight.

The Distiller's Edition from Talisker is a series of annual releases dating back to 1997. Coming from the island of Skye, the Distiller's Editions stay true to the distillery's origins while using a two-part maturation method to give the expression more depth and complexity. For this release, that meant first maturing it in American and European oak casks before being transferred to Amoroso seasoned and re-charred American oak casks. The distillery also added heavily re-charred ends to give it a wide range of different flavours.

With that charring, it's no surprise that the whisky has a rich amber appearance and a visibly full body. The sea air influence on the nose is immediately obvious as there is a mild salinity, along with more robust notes. The more subtle smells come from the malt and sweet fruits. The nose is excellent and is backed up by the palate. All the smells on the nose transfer to the taste and are harmoniously joined by some pepper for a lovely spice kick. The peat is quite dominant but not overwhelmingly so, and it feels like you get a new set of tasting notes with each sip. Oily smooth texture, smoky and briny yet growing more peppery as woody spiciness takes a clear interest. Luxurious suggestions of roasted fig and sweet date are firmly backed throughout by peat smoke and sea salt, with a smoothness to the chili ‘catch’ as it goes down.The long and powerful finish with lingering peat smoke and cocoa nibs is confirmation that Talisker 2023 Distiller's Edition is one of its best.

Amoroso is a rare type of sherry that is made by blending oloroso with some Pedro Ximenez, to make it more loveable, or “amoroso,” for their wives. There’s considerably more peat influence than you get from standard Talisker here, not unexpected in The Distillers Edition. Salty and coastal, there’s a certain earthiness here that borders on muddy, though somehow this does not come across as offensive. Rather, it’s soothing and immersive, offering a dreamy quality that is distinctly seaside — yet short of Islay. The sherry influence is tempered in this 2023 expression, though a little winey PX shows itself on the finish, growing more insistent over time. Sultry, woodsy, and more understated than expected. You have to allow it to grow on you, and it does.

Loch Lomond 18 Year Old

A perfect representation of Loch Lomond’s signature style, this single malt has been matured in three types of American oak casks for 18 years, creating its full-bodied and fruity character on  the nose and the palate, with gentle wisps of smoke lingering in the finish.

Founded in 1965, Loch Lomond is one of Scotland’s most versatile distilleries, producing single malt, single grain and blended whiskies alike, all of which vary in style from the soft and fruity to rich and heavily peated. The distillery uses a selection of different stills to make its whisky, including traditional pot stills, continuous column stills and the famous Lomond stills – straight-necked pot stills with rectifying plates. With so many styles, Loch Lomond releases its different versions as both single malts and blends. Besides the High Commisisoner blend, Loch Lomond’s range of single malt brands include Inchmurrin, Inchmoan, Inchfad, Old Rosdhu, Croftengea and Craiglodge. While all have been available as official and independent bottlings at one time or another, only a handful continue to be bottled as part of the distillery’s current range.

The original distillery held a set of pot stills with rectifying plates in their necks (also known as Lomond stills), allowing different flavour streams to be produced. Expansion in 1990 saw a second pair of the same design being installed, before the distillery installed two continuous stills three years later in which to make its own grain whisky. Two ‘traditional’ swan neck pot stills were added in 1998, before an additional continuous still, set up to produce grain whisky from a 100% malted barley mash, was installed in 2007. With the recent addition of two more Lomond stills, Loch Lomond has the capability to produce 11 different distillates for its whisky brands (not including the spirit coming from Glen Scotia). Wine yeasts have also been used to help create different flavours. In many ways it is more akin to a Japanese approach to distilling than a Scottish one.

Aged in three types of American oak casks, the Loch Lomond 18 year old is bottled at 46% and non-chill filtered. It is the best bang-for-your-buck in whisky. That robust flavour profile with a bit of lactic funk is most enticing. This Loch Lomond’s label and carton indicate that this 46% ABV spirit is non-chill filtered “as nature intended”, but mention nothing about natural colour. If one says it is as nature intended, would one add colour? 

Aside from the colour factor, this bottle hits on all other measures. This Loch Lomond is truly balanced, rich but not heavy. It is fruity with overlays of honey, but not too sweet. It has spice but it is so very faint and so well integrated. It has peat smoke but it does not overwhelm or become intrusive as many peated whiskies do.

                            

Nose: Woody and musty, but also aromatic. There’s a solid core of maltiness here – barley corns and toasted cereals. Supple leather. Unfiltered, organic honey on buckwheat bread. Slight wafts of smoke. Orange pith. Malty overtones, like walking past a washback after yeast has been added.

Palate: Rich and smooth. Blackberry jam. There is a well integrated layer of earthy, rich smoke that permeates the profile but in no way is obtrusive. It is so well integrated that, at times, one forgets it is there. A perfect blend of a good ex-bourbon cask that is not tannin-heavy along with malt/bread note. Clove and ginger in the background, but very slight. A browned butter – not quite caramel – note overlay.

Finish: Medium, sweet with toffee, pungent with wood spice and gentle wood smoke in the typical style of Loch Lomond Whiskies.

Royal Brackla OLOROSO – 12 Year Old

What do Macbeth and Royal Brackla have in common? Their Cawdor ancestry, of course! Royal Brackla is part of the Last Great Malts range; a previously overlooked distillery in the Bacardi portfolio, which has been sexed up, repackaged, re-vatted and generally its whiskies are being very well received among Scotch drinkers around the world.

Royal Brackla Distillery (Brackla Distillery before it got its Royal Warrant in 1835) is very old, as far as distilleries go, 1812. Its first owner was a Capt Fraser, who frequently clashed with local tax officials on whether or not he had to pay for his evaporated spirit (“angel’s share”).

It was the first distillery to get a Royal Warrant, and its spirit was known as the ‘King’s own whisky’. Whisky nerds might be more interested to know that Royal Brackla was closely connected to Andrew Usher, the pioneer of whisky blending and one of the ‘fathers’ of the Scotch whisky industry. It was Usher’s blending work in the 1860s that swiftly helped to make Scotch a global drink. Not only did Usher work for the company, but he also used Royal Brackla’s whisky in his early concoctions.

In 1995, it moved into the Barcadi-Martini stable (operated by Dewars) as part of Diageo’s dumping of blended whisky sites deemed surplus to requirements. It re-emerged as a brand in its own right in 2015 with a core range of 12, 16 and 21 year olds. It’s also been bottled by independents for a fair number of years.

Today Royal Brackla creates just under 4 million litres of spirit, which means it is huge. Naturally most of this whisky goes into blends for Bacardi-owned Dewar’s brands and Johnnie Walker Gold Label. You don’t often see a great amount of its spirits for sale, save for a handful of independent bottlings, which makes the new Royal Brackla all the more exciting.

Appearance: In the glass, Brackla 12 is a medium yellow gold in appearance. In keeping with the arrival of autumn, the colour reminds one of oak leaves in the northeast as they take on their golden fall colour. Legs are quite apparent, yet drip down quickly. As such, the mouth feel is slightly oily and not very viscous.

Nose: The nose is light, with hints of almond paste, light caramel, smooth vanilla, and sweet nut bread or cornbread with a molasses glaze; the sweetness is a nod to the first fill Oloroso Sherry casks it aged in.

The taste at first is airy and quite smooth. It begins fruity, with hints of pineapple (a tartness), the middle manifests itself with a minimal peppery tingling on the side of the tongue, and the end returns to bright fruits such as apple.

Finish: The finish is consistent with the light pepper and fruits and is medium-dry. Let the finish continue for about a minute and it becomes drier and drier, but with spiciness: green cardamom, pepper and lingering herbal and sweet wood notes.

Overall, this is a drinkable whisky and would likely be crowd-pleaser in the sense that its sweetness and minimal complexity makes it easy to drink. That said, it is bottled at the minimum of 40% ABV and quite expensive compared to comparable options.