ALL EXPRESSIONS AT CASK STRENGTH AND very EXPENSIVE
THE STORY BEHIND THE SPECIAL RELEASES...
In the late 1980s, the Scotch whisky industry witnessed
one of the most high-profile corporate takeovers in the UK’s history when The
Distillers Company was taken over by Guinness. In 1987, United Distillers was
formed (a formation of Distillers Company and Arthur Bell & Sons, both
owned by Guinness). Just one year after, when taking stock of the vast array of
maturing casks amassed by their predecessor, the new owners faced the
realisation that they needed to focus on upmarket malts and raise the profile of
their brand portfolio. Single malts had slowly been generating more interest
since the early 80s, with thanks primarily to Glenfiddich, which distillery,
two decades prior heavily promoted the category.
THE CLASSIC MALTS 1990 |
By 1988, single malts were fashionable and in a bid to
establish a high-profile single malt portfolio, United Distillers introduced
‘The Classic Malts of Scotland’. The Classic Malts was a relaunch of six single
malt Scotch brands, Lagavulin, Talisker, Oban, Dalwhinnie, Cragganmore and
Glenkinchie. The series concentrated on illuminating regional differences in
the whiskies and was regarded as a pivotal movement in introducing newcomers to
the world of single malt scotch whiskies. As interest in single malt whiskies
continued to climb, one product of this was the ‘The Rare Malt Selection’, a
series of older, rarer single malt releases from operational and lost
distilleries from 1995 to 2005. As with the Flora & Fauna series, they were
often from lesser-seen single malt distilleries. However, there remained a
demand for distinctive, often older, unrepeatable cask strength bottlings and
by the turn of the millennium the company, now Diageo, was looking for
something to fill this request.
"Such bottlings allowed collectors,
connoisseurs & enthusiasts to enjoy and experience exclusive remaining older stocks,
and/ or unusual expressions of a distillery’s character - the treasure trove of
priceless malts. To satisfy this demand, the Special Releases series, born
in 1988, was formalised in 2001 and the annual collection - with familiar names and some surprises -
has been eagerly awaited by enthusiasts ever since." Dr Craig Wilson,
Master Blender of Diageo & Curator, Special Releases
The Rare Malts Selection, a collection of cask-strength
bottlings from across Scotland, was on the shelves after its first bottling in
1995. The prices were incredibly reasonable by today’s standards, and Diageo
was looking for something to follow them.
THE SAME SIX BUT WITH THEIR CARTONS |
That year, drawing on its stocks of old whisky, Diageo
tested the waters with a bottling of Talisker 28 Year Old, exclusive to Oddbins
and limited to just 100 bottles. It sold out in a matter of hours and now
changes hands for upwards of £4,000 a bottle. Encouraged, the company then
released a pair of whiskies which are now seen as the inaugural Special
Releases – the first Talisker 25 Year
Old and the now legendary Port Ellen First Release. The Port Ellen has appeared
as part of the line-up ever since, with a box, label and bottle that have
barely changed since the first year.
In 2002, a larger batch of bottlings appeared, setting
the standard for what would follow – a set of seven whiskies, including Brora
(which has appeared in every release since), Talisker (another mainstay until
2013, only not appearing in the line-up in 2011) and the now-yearly release of
12-year-old Lagavulin.
DEVELOPING THE RANGE
Starting with a core of four distilleries, each
subsequent year showcased old and rare whiskies from open distilleries, twists
on distillery styles, and bottlings from lost distillers. Talisker’s 25- and
30-year-old releases slipped in and out of the range, leaving gaps for other
lesser-known drams. The core line-up eventually settled down to what we have
today:
Port Ellen – closed in 1983, so we don’t think there’s
much left. As we ask every year: will there be more bottlings as part of the
Special Releases?
Brora – also closed in 1983, and while not as trumpeted
about as Port Ellen, it’s just as, if not more, sought after. As with Port
Ellen, every year could be the last one we see in the Special Releases.
Lagavulin 12yo – one of a pair of more affordable drams
in each set of Special Releases. A very different take to the bestselling
Lagavulin 16, focusing on stormy maritime character and bourbon-cask maturation.
Caol Ila Highland – while it’s best known for smoky
whisky, Caol Ila has been making unpeated spirits since at least the 1990s.
Known as Caol Ila Highland, it very rarely appears anywhere but in Special
Releases.
The Diageo Special Releases 2017 saw as many as ten
distilleries on the rack. Along with the four core bottlings, that year’s
Special Releases featured everything from the oldest whisky Diageo has ever
released to the Special Releases’ first blend.
DIAGEO’S SPECIAL RELEASES FOR 2020: RARE BY NATURE
THEME
The 2020 Diageo Special Release Single Malt Scotch
Whisky Collection features eight vibrant expressions, each selected to bring a
taste of Scotland to every enthusiast's home. This collection includes eight
cask-strength single malt Scotch whiskies drawn from some of Scotland’s most
interesting distilleries. The annual collection explores unusual age points, and experimental maturation techniques and this year welcome the first-ever
release finished in pot-still Caribbean rum casks. The "Rare by
Nature" theme highlights the extraordinary nature that surrounds each
distillery, with each whisky visually brought to life through intricate
illustrations that decorate the bottles.
If you remember the 2019 Diageo Special Releases, then the line-up for 2020 might look somewhat familiar. Not only do we have eight whiskies again, but seven of the eight distilleries are the same as those in 2019 – Singleton of Glen Ord has been replaced by Singleton of Dufftown – and even some of the ages and vintages match up.
DIAGEO SPECIAL RELEASES 2021: LEGENDS UNTOLD
Diageo Special Releases has slowly evolved into a
showcase of lesser-known distilleries in Diageo’s portfolio – they own more
distilleries in Scotland than any other whisky maker – as well as new takes on
more familiar names. The past few years have seen some major changes in both
the make-up of the collection and its intention, The Prima and Ultima range has
taken on the role of the super-high-end-whisky showcase, leaving the Special
Releases as a more accessible way to get your hands on some very special drams
from Scotland’s biggest whisky maker.
Legends Untold: After the pandemic caused slightly less
focussed releases over the past couple of years, 2021’s Special Releases are much
more unified in purpose – they are there to tell stories. Alongside the
whiskies themselves, they have also created a multimedia experience to
accompany each dram. Scan the QR code on the back of each box or tube with your
phone to face an augmented-reality experience that invites you to
pop your dram on the table and listen to stories, as read by Scottish actors
Lorne MacFadyen and Siobhan Redmond, and accompanied by imagery from acclaimed
digital artist Ken Taylor.
DIAGEO SPECIAL RELEASES 2022: ELUSIVE EXPRESSIONS
This year’s edition of the Diageo Special Releases,
created by master blender Dr Craig Wilson and his award-winning team, is a
showcase of extremes. It is a range that shows everything from seldom-seen
distilleries in their purest light to complex maturations and the most intense
versions of familiar spirits. Each bottle is paired with artwork by Ken Taylor
and Kevin Tong, inspired by the character of the spirit and stories of the
distillery where it was made.
The collection includes:
· A rare expression of Cardhu, finished in Jamaican Rum casks for a vibrant tropical sweetness
· The dark, sweet, and rich Mortlach, with gingery depth, unique to the Speyside Dufftown distillery
· A lively sweet expression of The Singleton of Glen Ord, aged in refill American and European Oak, then double matured in wine-seasoned casks
· A true expression of Lagavulin, matured in a combination of virgin oak casks and our smokiest reserves
· Talisker 11-Year-Old, elemental yet also classic in character with maritime malty smokiness notes
· An unusual Clynelish with just a slight trace of waxiness and added sweetness and spiciness from maturation in refill American Oak, then finished in PX/Oloroso seasoned casks
· The creamy smooth Oban 10-Year-Old with richly sweet fruitiness, light smoke and salt notes
· And for the first time ever, the rich and exquisite Cameronbridge 26-Year-Old
With over 30 distilleries to draw from, the collection’s Master Blender Dr Craig Wilson can tap into over 10 million casks that are currently resting in our world-famous portfolio.
Elusive Expressions is the latest chapter in Special
Releases, where mythical beasts are unleashed through striking artwork and
stories. Illustrator Ken Taylor returns this year with his signature style and
is joined by fellow digital visualisation artist Kevin Tong.
Alongside the Special Releases collection, an
illustrated cocktails and serves book gives suggestions for whisky fans to try
at home, inspired by the legendary tales behind our brands. Whisky enthusiasts
can also explore the collection digitally via a QR code, giving the most
immersive Special Releases experience to date.
The 2022 Special Releases collection is now available
in limited quantities from specialist Scotch whisky retailers and malts.com.
CARDHU 16-YEAR-OLD: THE HIDDEN PARADISE OF BLACK ROCK
Cardhu 16-Year-Old: Rum Cask Finish 70cl / 58% ABV
Cardhu is well-known as an easy-drinking whisky that’s popular in hot countries, and this expression takes that idea and doubles down on tropical flavour. Matured in refill and re-charred casks, and finished in Jamaican pot-still-rum casks, it builds on top of Cardhu’s honey-forward character with layers of fruit and toffee.
This is an extra-tropical edition of Cardhu, released
as part of the Diageo Special Releases 2022. Matured in refill and re-charred
casks before a finish in Jamaican pot-still-rum casks, it adds layers of
tropical fruit to Cardhu's honey-forward character to create a zingy but rich
whisky.
Details: Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky: Distillery Bottling
NOSE:
Spiced cream, toffee and fruit: mango puree and roasted pineapple. The toffee notes build, joined by creamy milk chocolate and soft spice. Cinder toffee hints hide at the back with pineapple upside-down cake and spiced pears.
PALATE: Buttery toffee is swamped by fruit – pineapple leads with creamy apple sauce, sharp Granny Smith apples and poached pears. The fruit continues to build, followed by spiced fruitcake, sultanas and fudgy touches.
FINISH: A tingle of spices is followed by green apples, softer spice and shortbread hints.
MORTLACH: THE LURE OF THE BLOOD MOON
Mortlach is traditionally a distillery focused on
sherry-matured whisky, but this release ignores tradition and goes very modern.
It’s made up of whisky finished in a combination of red muscat wine and
tawny-port casks, as well as a small amount finished in virgin oak. The result
layers on red fruit and soft spice, taking the distillery’s rich character in a
new direction.
Distillery Bottling 70cl / 57.8% ABV
A very special Mortlach was released as part of the Diageo Special Releases 2022. This takes a left turn compared to most other Mortlach whiskies, which are traditionally aged in sherry casks, and looks at other wines. It was finished in red muscat and tawny-port casks, and also has a little bit of virgin-oak-finished whisky in the mix. The result is big, rich and spicy, with layers of dark red fruit flavour.
NOSE: Sweet spongecake, sweet and sour berries, stewed
apples and green leaves. Spiced butter builds, along with sharper berry notes,
spicy wine-poached pears ginger cake and a touch of freshly sawn oak.
PALATE: Big, thick and weighty on the palate, with
fresh and zingy orchard fruit balanced by creamy chocolate, caramel and stewed
fruit. Buttered fruit loaf and stewed mandarins lead to liquorice root and a
pinch of anise.
FINISH: The buttered fruit loaf fades away to leave
green leaves and sugar-dusted sultanas.
SINGLETON OF GLEN ORD 15-YEAR-OLD: THE ENCHANTRESS OF
THE RUBY SOLSTICE
Glen Ord distillery has been getting a lot of attention
recently and it’s great to see a twist on the standard 15-year-old release in
the Special Releases. This started out in refill-American and -European oak
casks like usual before being filled into wine casks for a long eight-year
secondary maturation, giving extra rich, fruity and spicy depth.
This is a grower, not a shower. Ord is a good distillery, and its medium-weight spirit often forms the backbone of quality blended malts. It’s a lot more characterful than the Singleton distillery of Glendullan selected last year. A very minimal amount of information here with “wine cask finish,” as though all whisky tastes the same. I’m not going to go further with any bashing as I did enjoy every mouthful. But do remember that the 2019 SR 18-Year-Old Ord can still be found online for just £18 more than this RRP.
Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky; Distillery Bottling
70cl/54.2% ABV
NOSE: Stacks of fruit: orange, peach, raspberry, fresh
and stewed plums, and spiced baked apple. Aromatic oak notes build along with
gentle spice, a vinous first impression, backed by more spicy, woody notes of
oak shavings and beech. Alluring aromas of tart red berry fruit and creamy
vanilla spread among them, and a hint of wax appears in the development. Toffee
touches hide at the back. A little water softens the nose and relaxes the
aroma, without great alteration
PALATE: Soft and creamy in texture, with sweet cream
leading into the fruit from the nose: apples, pears, raspberries and fresh
plums. Buttery notes give way to orchard fruit purée and damp oak. Sponge cake
appears from time to time, studded with sultanas. An ultra-smooth, mouth-filling
texture prefaces a lively, intense taste; barley-sugar sweet, with a pinch of
salt. That sweetness becomes pleasantly tart, with suggestions of gooseberry
and crisp grape. At reduced strength, it is not as tart, but still spicy; the
sweetness is highlighted yet the appetising spicy heat remains.
FINISH: Creamy apple sauce and buttery sponge cake
with gentle spice and sweet cream. Lengthy and palate-drying, as pepper heat lingers in the last kiss of silken spice. With water sweeter, now with a trace of
fondant in the aftertaste.
LAGAVULIN 12-YEAR-OLD: THE FLAMES OF THE PHOENIX
Lagavulin 12 Year Old 70 Cl 57.3% ABV
The remaining mainstay of the range, the yearly release of Lagavulin 12 Year Old is usually an unadorned smoky spirit. However, this time the team has selected casks that showed a higher level of phenols at filling – compounds that indicate smokiness – and also finished some of the vatting in virgin oak for extra spiciness. A very big and smoky dram.
Lagavulin is a burning phoenix - or is that just what a
rooster looks like while we're on 'shrooms? This is probably the one that’s
most interested in tasting. This is blended from Lagavulin Distillery’s
“smokiest reserves”, which we can assume is some of the peatiest stock we would
be seeing from the distillery. This is also interestingly aged in virgin oak
casks, which would likely make this taste much older than 12 years. The new oak
is highly active and would impart much more oak flavour to the spirit.
The 21st release of Lagavulin 12 Year Old as part of
the Diageo Special Releases, a whisky that continues a long and rightfully
praised heritage. This year, a couple of extra components separate this from
the pack. Firstly, the blending team selected extra smoky casks of whisky –
they measure the phenol levels whenever a cask is filled, so can pick out
extra-peaty whiskies if they need them. And secondly, they added some
new-oak-finished whisky to the mix, adding extra layers of spice to an already
big and smoky dram.
Scotch distilleries generally shun virgin oak casks and
go with ex-bourbon or sherry casks to avoid the astringency of new oak. For
this expression to work well, the wood management and
new oak maturation have been handled very carefully by the master blender. And
they have!
TALISKER 11-YEAR-OLD: THE LUSTROUS CREATURE OF THE
DEPTHS
The returning star of the past few years, we’ve been
waiting to see what tweaks the team have made this year. This time the classic
bourbon-cask maturation of Talisker has had some wine-cask maturation added to
it, to create a subtle extra layer of fruit and spice.
Distillery Bottling 70cl / 55.1%
Talisker has more recently become a mainstay of the Diageo Special Releases, and this 2022 edition continues the tweaking of the Talisker character. Along with the classic American oak ex-bourbon casks, this also has some wine casks thrown into the mix, which add a subtle but intriguing extra bit of fruity complexity and spice. In the past, Talisker often produced experimental cask finishes, but this year we’re seeing an 11-year-old from classic ex-bourbon casks. It is composed of lightly peated stocks though.
As their legend goes, when the tides at Talisker Bay
flowed with an unusual force, a luminous creature was drawn from the blackest
depths, flooding the deep-sea darkness with its captivating glow. This powerful
luminescence was carried on storm-tossed currents to the Talisker distillery,
illuminating its new-make spirit. In that spirit too, the vivid luminosity
shone, its classic smokiness fading before a radiant tide of spice-bright
sweetness rarely seen.
On the shores of Loch Harport, near the western edge of
the rugged Isle of Skye, legends easily ring true. Standing apart, its new make
spirit cooled by the sea, Talisker has forged its own maritime destiny here
since 1830. Sweet, salt-laced, thunderous and smoky, as elemental as land, sea
or storm, this is a whisky for the wild at heart, Made by the Sea.
A light shines in every element there. Amid a deep golden
glow, salty, smoky hints of a beach bonfire give the mild nose a maritime feel.
First fill ex-bourbon casks gift layers of luminous flavour, the texture
smoothly oily, the taste sweet and smoky-spicy, salty and fruity, like an
orchard in sea mist. Peaty power appears in the chilli-spiced catch of the long
finish. This is a legendary Talisker, of ethereal beauty.
Tasting notes:
APPEARANCE: Deep, glowing gold.
BODY: Medium.
NOSE: Maritime in feel, with light spice-prickle, the
first impression suggests a beach bonfire of dry seaweed, then deep-seated
notes of maritime saltiness and marine engines take over, on a base of drying
fresh linen. All these scents hold together well at reduced strength.
PALATE: Smoothly oily in texture, while the taste is gloriously sweet throughout and smoky-spicy, with a distinct fruity hint, all of which evokes an orchard seen through smoke and sea mist. A fine salty balance in the middle leads the spiciness into a powerful chilli pepper catch as you swallow. Intense concentrated apple sweetness becomes singed and mingles with wood smoke. Brine mixed with apple juice and hot cinnamon spice. Tarry notes and coiled ropes sit at the core, with an underlying layer of char and sultana -studded sponge cake with burned edges. With a drop of water, the sweet fruitiness and saltiness come into their own.
FINISH: Long, sustained and lightly smoky, with
lingering warming spice and char lingering with flashes of orchard fruit, toffee
and smouldering oak.
CLYNELISH 12-YEAR-OLD: THE GOLDEN-EYED GUARDIAN
Clynelish 12 YO Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky 70cl/58.5% ABV.
Clynelish Distillery was built on the coast of
Sutherland County in the Highlands region of Scotland more than 2 centuries
ago. Today, Clynelish is known for its sweet floral aromas and verdant flavour.
Diageo's annual Special Releases Collection pushes the boundaries of aroma and
flavour.
A welcome return to the Special Releases for Clynelish
with a whisky that’s not quite what you might expect. While the distillery is more known for bourbon-cask-matured drams, this whisky spent more than two years finishing in oloroso- and PX-sherry casks, adding in layers of dark fruit and spice on top of the trademark waxiness.
A cask-strength 12-year-old Clynelish bottled for Diageo's Special Releases 2022, this Clynelish subtitle presumably refers to its rich gold colour and perhaps also to the fact that it's clearly one of the picks of the 2022 litter. Bottled at a sturdy 58.5%, this Special Releases Clynelish 12-year-old bursts with flavour. A few drops of water bring out the herbal notes in this beautiful sipper.
TASTING NOTES
NOSE: Fruit cake, brown sugar, Danish pastries, sticky
baked apples and vanilla sauce. Fruitiness slowly starts to poke its way
through – apples, pears and pineapples. At the back is thick and fruity toffee
sauce, stirred through with raisins.
PALATE: Rich, rounded and thick – actively thick on the
palate. Apples, sultanas and raisins start fresh and are slowly cooked down
into a rich sauce. Minty touches give a burst of further freshness that fades
to reveal another round of rich spice and a touch of dark chocolate.
FINISH: Layers of orchard fruit and chocolate at first.
Apples linger as polished oak and buttery notes build.
OBAN 10-YEAR-OLD: THE CELESTIAL BLAZE
Oban’s still house, like that of Royal Lochnagar's,
points to it being a heavy, sulphury site. The stills are small and onion-shaped
and condensing takes place in worm tubs. They do not run every day. In fact,
Oban produces significantly less than it could. The reason for this is to
retain its character. Oban’s make is light rather than heavy, and that means a
lot of copper contact is needed – tricky in a small still/worm tub site. The
solution is to run the worms hot which extends the amount of copper available and also to open the doors of the stills after distillation to allow oxygen to
rejuvenate the copper. The result is a clean, intensely fruity spirit which
after ageing in refill casks also has a tingling mineral spiciness which some
pick up as saltiness.
APPEARANCE: Pale, ethereal gold
BODY: Medium
NOSE: Gentle in feel, with no prickle. The top notes are faint at first yet grow easier to make out. Apples, oranges and sultanas at first, with hints of spice. The sultana notes build but never overpower. Creaminess develops, dusted with lemon zest and a little brown sugar. Toffee
and milk-chocolate notes emerge from the depths and crunchy pear sits around
the edges. It’s studded with maritime hints of salt crystal, edible seaweed,
and ozone-fresh sea air. As the senses adjust a very faint smokiness appears,
infused with mere suggestions of lint and light olive oil, and a light note of
lemon citrus fruit.
PALATE: The texture is soft and creamy-smooth, while
the taste shines brightly with wine-fruit notes that carry hints of sweet
violet and spiced plum. Apples, pears and cream lead to milk chocolate and
orange fondant. Soft toffee and a grind of black pepper grow in intensity, with
pear, a pinch of chilli heat and green-capsicum flavour. Dark-chocolate notes
develop with a touch of sweet liquorice. The fruit is balanced by a lively
spiciness first met as saltiness mid-palate, then in a blazing dash of chilli
pepper. A little water softens the taste, taming the spiciness without altering
the balance overall.
FINISH: Chilli spice tingles reveal wine-poached pears and crunchy apples. Quite long and surprisingly peppery, leaving a smooth memory of chilli pepper in the maritime aftertaste.
CAMERON BRIDGE 26-YEAR-OLD: THE KNIGHT’S GOLDEN TRIUMPH
A first entry for Cameronbridge, Diageo’s biggest distillery and one of the biggest in Europe. For its inaugural appearance, the team have left the whisky simple and expressive – it has matured in refill American oak casks for its full term. This is all about showing the distillery's soft, sweet and toffee-forward character. Aged solely in refill-bourbon casks, it lets the spirit do the talking A ‘long and gentle’ maturation, just the thing to show off the grain whisky’s sweet and fragrant character.
Single Grain Scotch Whisky Distillery Bottling 70cl /
56.2% ABV
According to legend, a brave knight forged a crown in a
26-year struggle. As he stormed the River Ore in triumph, he held his flag
aloft, its long sky-blue ribbons falling away, dissolving in the river's gentle
current and turning the water to sweet, silky gold. A majestic distillery was
born there and, as history has it, gold has flowed through the river every 26
years ever since. You can taste its brilliant character in every sip of the
Cameronbridge 26-year-old.
In 1824 the Cameronbridge Grain Distillery grew in
popularity and became the most enduring heir to one of the oldest whisky
dynasties. Regarded as regal, velvety and refined in their richness, its whiskies
are renowned for their silky and honeyed character, which has appealed to
tastes around the world.
The Cameronbridge 26-year-old shines golden in the sun and swirls silky soft in the glass. The subtle aroma exudes a hint of spices, whose notes are flanked by hints of hard toffee and fine oak shavings. The smooth, flowing texture harbours a sweet taste with caramel toffee and intense oak dryness. Expect a royal drop of opulent wealth that lives up to its heritage.
APPEARANCE: Pale gold
NOSE: Delicately spicy aromas of ripe grains, behind
them ripe mangoes and papayas with clear aromas of hard toffee and fresh oak shavings - cinnamon buns warmed with a little water and salted toffee - above all fragrant beeswax
PALATE: Silky and smooth with an intense caramel-sweet
flavour that transforms into rich caramel toffee - then balancing, spicy-dry
notes follow with hints of oak with a little water, the honey-like sweetness
softens to creamy-smooth milk chocolate with just a little Salt paired with a
gentle spice
FINISH: short and intense on the finish, with a clear warming chilli heat - slightly sweeter and less hot with water
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