DIAGEO'S PRIMA AND ULTIMA COLLECTION

 Diageo’s Prima & Ultima Third Release

A MOMENT IN TIME

Prima & Ultima, a series of unique whiskies, the first or last of their kind, returns this year for its third instalment. Representing the almost lost, the historic, and the one-off, this year’s collection of eight rare and exceptional whiskies joins the illustrious sixteen from previous editions, adding new stories to this growing narrative of Scotland’s rich liquid history.

Prima & Ultima – meaning ‘first and last’ – showcases whiskies that are exactly that. The eight single malts in this year’s line-up were chosen by Diageo master blender Dr Craig Wilson. The whiskies include the final Brora bottling from 1981, and spirit from the last two casks of Port Ellen filled in 1980, as well as single malts from Royal Lochnagar, Cragganmore, Mannochmore, The Singleton of Glen Ord, Lagavulin and Talisker.

The Port Ellen 1980 is the oldest ever to be released from this distillery, taken from two casks filled the year the Queen visited the maltings in 1980. They matured exclusively on Islay, overlaying the whisky with notes of brine and seaweed. Meanwhile, the Brora 1981 is considered the rarest publicly available whisky from the distillery, and it shows a more fragrant, less peated side to the classic style.

The last Talisker casks from 1984 bring another maritime note to the collection, while two exploratory whiskies – a Royal Lochnagar from 1981, the result of an experiment to capture the angels’ share, and a Mannochmore from 1990 exposed to an unusual maturation process – capture the spirit of innovation.

The oldest whisky in this year’s selection comes from the oldest casks of Cragganmore in the reserves, while a 28-year-old Lagavulin 1993 celebrates the beginning of a golden era of awards for the celebrated Islay distillery. The Singleton of Glen Ord finishes the lineup with a dual claim to the Prima & Ultima title, being the first ever 1987 vintage release, taken from the last remaining casks of 1987.

                      

RARE AND EXCEPTIONAL

Due to their rarity, there were only 317 sets available for purchase, through Prima & Ultima agents at a recommended price of £36,500. Each set included a 20ml tasting sample alongside the full vintage bottlings. For the first time, a selection of individual bottles was also available to purchase offering the opportunity for enthusiasts, connoisseurs and collectors to experience whiskies that will never be made again.

TASTING NOTES

Royal Lochnagar 1981, 40-Year-Old 70 Cl 52.5% ABV

Bottled: 06.12.21 | Refill casks, refill American Oak Hogsheads No Bottled: 1,047 | Balmoral, Royal Deeside

Royal Lochnagar distillery is based on the Abergeldie Estate in Royal Deeside, Scotland, close to the mountain Lochnagar. The first Lochnagar distillery was burnt down in suspicious circumstances in 1824 and a replacement again burnt down in 1841. In 1845 John Begg built the "new" Lochnagar. The distillery was awarded its Royal Warrant in 1848 when John Begg invited Prince Albert to visit the distillery from the nearby Balmoral Castle, the Queen’s residence in the Highlands. This historic distillery on the edge of the Balmoral estate, produces whisky on a tiny scale despite being part of Diageo's large distillery portfolio. Much of its whisky is released as single malt, although it is also a key component of high-end limited quantity blended whiskies. This expression is the result of a mysterious experiment designed to reduce the angels’ share (evaporation) as the whisky matures, this is a delicate, fragrant, beautifully expressive single malt from one of Diageo’s smallest and most photogenic distilleries. Deep gold with copper lights in appearance, it has fine and lingering beading, multiple long legs. Mellow with light prickle and a medium body. Highly floral, with lavender, jasmine and bramble on the nose and ginger, honey and light oak tannin on the palate. This is a graceful, mature whisky of great freshness and vitality with flowery aromas, leading to a smooth creamy overall mouthfeel.

Cragganmore 1973, 48-Year-Old 70 Cl 44.8% ABV

Bottled: 06.12.21 | 3 refill American Oak Hogsheads | Number Bottled: 351 | Ballindalloch, Speyside

Cragganmore uses lightly peated malt, long fermentation, unusually shaped stills and worm tubs to produce a rich, meaty new make. The oldest release of Cragganmore to date, this was distilled soon after steam replaced coal in heating the stills. It’s as smooth as a velvet smoking jacket with complex aromas and unctuously fruity – almond oil, cassis, then peach and nectarine. The assertive oak brings a drying, nutty dimension alongside toffee, with always the tang of dark marmalade lurking in the background. This milestone in distilling gave birth to a new age in which craft and vision could walk hand in hand. A pathfinder for the smooth whiskies of the modern-day, the nose is more complex than usual with a palate that is sweet but pleasantly tart.

Appearance is a clear rich amber, polished mahogany. No beading. long legs. It has a very mellow nose with just a little prickle to start, which soon disappears. In the rich top notes, the immediate impression is almost sherry-like, soon becoming sweeter, with almond oil or almond cake. Also lightly fruity, with tropical fruits; papaya, ripe mango, plantain banana, and apricot. Finally, there are some fragrant floral notes, the base reminiscent of a sandalwood cigar wrapper. The Body is medium to full, with a creamy, even lightly oily texture and a sweet taste, which soon becomes pleasantly tart, with a hint of caramelised orange, then oaky-dry with light tannins. The finish is quite long, with a gentle, spicy warmth, and finishing dry, with vanilla fudge lingering in the long aftertaste.

Mannochmore 1990, 31-Year-Old 70 Cl 45.1% ABV

Bottled: 06.12.21 | Refill cask, untreated virgin European Oak | Number Bottled: 357 | Glenlossie, Speyside

The lesser-spotted, malty Mannochmore, made even rarer by its experimental maturation for almost three decades in highly active, virgin European oak. Charred bitter orange peel, spice rack flavours, coffee roaster and opulent aromas of well-polished antique bureaus. A rich, deep single malt for fans of cask-driven whiskies.

Mannochmore is a large Speyside distillery with half a dozen stills, where a light style is produced though without the oily background of its sister plant, Glenlossie. Flowers are more to the fore here, with delicate fruits that gain in weight when matured. Mannochmore is one of the manifestations of the confidence of the 1960s, built by DCL in 1971 to cope with increasing demand internationally for blends, and like its sister plant, Glenlossie, it has been closely associated with the Haig and Dimple brands. Here we are talking about a very special Mannochmore sourced from a single small experimental batch exposed to a highly unusual maturation. First housed in refill casks, then in unusual, highly active virgin European Oak for almost three decades has revealed a whole new character. The pale and youthful whisky has evolved into a dark and intriguing spirit, lean and smooth in texture. The powerful taste of striking dark orange marmalade is cut with drying wood spice before spiralling into endless layers of deep bitterness. Rich rosewood with ruby lights in appearance, this medium-bodied expression has a gentle and almost enigmatic nose, dry overall, which initially gives little away. After a while a suggestion of polished leather emerges, perhaps edging towards scented wax furniture polish, on a base of hard toffee, with vanilla notes. Lean and smooth in texture, while the powerfully bittersweet taste is immediately striking. The powerful taste of striking dark orange marmalade is cut with drying wood spice before spiralling into endless layers of deep bitterness. This is its striking finish, medium to long, lightly spicy and very drying, with a bitter-sweet nutty-spicy aftertaste.  

Brora 1981, 40-Year-Old 70 Cl 44.1% ABV

Bottled: 09.12.21 | 1 refill American Oak Hogshead, 1 European Oak Sherry Butt | Number Bottled: 354 | Brora, Highlands

Much of the Brora we know today is heavily peated, the American Oak hogshead and European Oak Sherry butt selected here show us a different side of the Brora story. Filled at a time when less whisky was being made, it was often less peaty allowing new aromas and tastes to shine through. The last release of 1981 Brora, this may well be the rarest publicly available Brora of all.  

It came as no surprise to anyone that, when Craig Wilson took his turn curating a Prima & Ultima Collection, he would include a Brora. In recent years, he has been involved in many aspects of this ghost distillery’s afterlife and resurrection. He was the brain behind last year’s much sought-after Brora Triptych, a trio of vintages from stills that went silent in 1983, showcasing three very different styles produced at different times throughout its history. He has also been closely involved with the reestablished Brora distillery, notably the challenge of being able to produce all of those distinct styles again whenever they like. As well as being a new working distillery, Brora is one of the best – and most exclusive – to visit by appointment.

For the Triptych, Wilson demarcated specific periods and the styles associated with those, but of course, there would be periods of overlap. So, 1981 was on the cusp of the more modern, lighter waxy style but still retaining elements of the age of peat. Indeed, it’s a mystery wrapped in an enigma, with a fragrant nose of waxed fruit, scented candlewax, then sweet spices on a rich smooth palate, with elusive will-o’-the-wisp smoke and moorland flowers dancing in and out of the scene, leading to a smooth waxy texture that is sweet and lightly smoky.

Deep, clear gold in appearance, there is no beading, but slow legs. The nose is very mild and mellow, with no prickle and the body is medium. But then, Brora is a chameleon, embracing everything from dark smoke to waxy, juicy fruit. This final release from 1981 displays a little of everything: honeyed fruit, snuffed candle, shaved nutmeg and a gentle wisp of peat smoke. The star of this year’s show.

The Singleton of Glen Ord 1987, 34-Year-Old 70 Cl 49.4% ABV

Bottled: 10.12.21 | 5 refill American Oak Hogsheads | Number Bottled: 1,047 | Glen Ord, Highlands

A first, and last, this is the first 1987 The Singleton of Glen Ord vintage and the only one ever to be released, from the last casks that remain. Slow crafting and patience were key to this rare bottling, taking time to distil the liquid and see each cask reach its peak. The result is an elegant liquid with absolutely breathtaking qualities. The sweetly satisfying taste 

A single malt to linger over when nosing – this is a massively fragrant, floral, fine whisky, with notes of ginger snap, bright fruit and an elusive wisp of smoke, possibly from the refill American oak. Remarkably lively, but also deep and broad, with a sweet finish that holds deep fruity flavours with hints of ginger. Add water for honeysuckle and gentle vanilla.

The Highland distillery on the Black Isle, close to Inverness, is set to gain a higher profile now that its new “brand home” has opened. Glen Ord is a rarity because 100 per cent of its malting is done on site. This bottling is both a first and a last… there has never been a bottling of a 1987 vintage before, nor will there be again, as these were the last casks remaining from that year. Glen Ords have always been highly prized both for The Singleton malts and for blends such as Johnnie Walker; the simple fact is, previous Master Blenders have used it all!

If this rarity is anything to go by, it’s easy to understand why… it is spectacular on the nose in particular, a complex jazz composition written to describe late summer in a country garden whether on the nose, the palate bringing out preserved ginger pavlova and with another tour of the garden on the finish.

Lagavulin 1993, 28-Year-Old 70 Cl 50.1% ABV

Bottled: 08.12.21|1 Pedro Ximenez/Oloroso seasoned butt, 1 refill American Oak Hogshead| Number Bottled: 642|Port Ellen, Isle of Islay

Showing Lagavulin’s darker side thanks to ageing in European and American oak, this is a richly fruited malt that will delight fans of Laga 16. Juicy blackcurrant and raspberry, then classic distillery notes of beach bonfire and iodine. Lapsang flavours are swiftly smothered by sweet black cherry and a compelling vinosity. 

A prized Lagavulin, from the last two 1993 casks, filled in the year the distillery won the first of an avalanche of international awards. It was the start of a golden era, a success that owed much to an Islay legend, Manager Grant Carmichael. This is a Lagavulin at its mature peak with redcurrant fruitiness on the nose, soon overcome by the maritime scents of sea salt and sweet seaweed. Lapsang flavours are swiftly smothered by sweet black cherry and a compelling vinosity. Lightly oily, the smooth texture delivers a long mellow finish, a gloriously rich and rounded whisky.

This will divide opinions. In one way, it’s a complex array of flavours with the best of Islay, sherry and ex-bourbon all having a say on the palate. While it is very interesting, there is only a touch of the distinctive Lagavulin character (iodine, in particular) left. The phenolic notes in Lagavulin become less pronounced, rounder, earthier, and better integrated as the whisky ages. Always set to champion experimentation, this is a wonderful dram, but perhaps only identifiable as a Lagavulin to the experienced palate.

The appearance is deep amber with ruby lights. Shiny chestnut. Very good beading and legs. A mellow nose in feel, with light prickle. Redcurrant fruitiness is soon overcome by maritime scents of sea salt and sweet seaweed on a base of woodsmoke. Its body is medium to full. Lightly oily and smooth in texture. An immediately sweet and lightly spicy start with winey fruit, a balancing pinch of salt and soon, appreciable pepper and smoke flooding through. Rich in style, with drying oak tannins and lightly drying later. The finish is long, with a deep peppery smokiness: slightly mouth-cooling, with more smoke in the peaty aftertaste.

Talisker 1984, 37-Year-Old 70 Cl 51.9% ABV

Bottled: 07.12.21 | 3 refill American Oak Hogsheads, 1 ex-Sherry European Oak Butt | Number Bottled: 968 | Carbost, Isle of Skye

While some of the releases in this year’s Prima & Ultima are unusual twists on a distillery’s usual character, this is a celebration of the familiar taken to a higher plane with ageing. The finest Taliskers are a harmonious balancing act of salt, smoke and sweetness, with just a pinch of chilli heat. Here the chimney soot smoke is quite assertive, but always the distillery’s classic maritime salinity persists, with some alluringly sweet fruit in the background. A savoury, silky whisky, redolent of warm summer days on a Skye beach.

Taken from the very last 1984 casks from Talisker, set aside and guarded for decades for their promising potential. At the time few knew of Talisker’s tempestuous maritime character, but there was something special about these 1984 casks that made the distiller set them aside. The finest Taliskers are a harmonious balancing act of salt, smoke and sweetness, with just a pinch of chilli heat. Here the chimney soot smoke is quite assertive, but always the distillery’s classic maritime salinity persists, with some alluringly sweet fruit in the background. A savoury, silky whisky redolent of warm summer days on a Skye beach.

The Talisker distillery is the oldest working whisky producer on the island of Skye. Until the opening of the Torabhaig distillery in 2017, it was the only producer. Historically, Talisker has been a peated whisky with a prominent maritime character and a trademark note of freshly ground black pepper on both the nose and the palate.

The whisky was matured in a combination of re-fill hogsheads made from ex-bourbon casks and one ex-Sherry European oak butt. A total of 968 bottles were filled.

Bright gold, polished brass in appearance, with exceptional large beading and a medium to full body. On the nose, Immediate mineral and lightly smoky with hints of chalk and salt, joined by notes of fine sand and seaweed drying on a hot day. The light smoke is followed by Talisker’s characteristic savoury/maritime notes reminiscent of a beach at low tide. There are some fruity notes and the trademark Talisker black pepper.

On the palate, the whisky is smooth, oily and viscous; the deliciously light oil-smooth texture introduces a sweet and richly malty start, soon balanced by a dash of salt mid-palate and surging waves of smoky pepper. It’s rich and fruity, with pronounced orchard fruit notes of apple and Asian pear, along with cold smoke, a savoury/saline character, a bit of earthiness and a pronounced pepperiness that features both black pepper and chilis, drying towards the finish. The finish is long, sweet and smoky, with a lingering pepperiness leaving a peppery heat on the tongue and a savoury maritime note. It is Skye in all its elemental glory.

Port Ellen 1980, 41-Year-Old 70 Cl 59.6% ABV

Bottled: 07.12.21 | 1 refill American Oak Hogshead, 1 ex-Sherry European Oak Butt  |  Number Bottled: 555 | Port Ellen, Isle of Islay

Commemorating HM Queen Elizabeth II’s visit to Port Ellen in 1980, this is the oldest release yet from the distillery. Remarkably high in alcohol for a 41-year-old whisky, it’s full-on, quintessential Port Ellen, with robust flavours of dying coal fire and a drying effect on the palate, elevated by beguiling flavours of honeydew melon. Beautifully textured, with a long, cooling and savoury finish. 

Port Ellen, another legendary distillery which was dismantled and only recently rebuilt and returned to production. Collectors eagerly seek its iconic whiskies and pay premium prices for them. The 1980 Port Ellen is the oldest Port Ellen released by Diageo and this prized piece of history is the oldest Port Ellen ever to be released, from the two very last casks of 1980 which lived all their days on Islay. This whisky of majestic quality is rich and smooth and has a perfect balance of sweet, salty, and smoky, with a long, lightly peaty finish of Iberico ham.

An impressive ABV for such an old whisky and as such this needs a healthy dose of water to bring out the complexity. Bring this one down to around 50% and you get the trappings of the quintessential Port Ellen.

Although the still designs at Port Ellen and Lagavulin were different – Port Ellen’s stills were onion-shaped with tall necks while Lagavulin’s stills were squat and short-necked – the two distilleries shared a similar style. Unlike Lagavulin, however, Port Ellen tended to be a little smokier and more peppery and briny but slightly less medicinal and oily. Even though both distilleries used a similarly peated malt, the cut points at Port Ellen differed from those at Lagavulin. Port Ellen also tended to use less active, re-fill barrels, so the whiskies received less cask wood influences. That’s also why Port Ellen whiskies have been able to age for such a long time without getting overly woody.

Bright, clear 9ct gold in appearance, it shows good beading and copious legs. A bit fresh on the nose, with some prickle closing the aroma initially; lightly drying. The initial impression is lightly medicinal, becoming more maritime as it opens with hints of brine, sea breeze, dry seaweed or boat varnish. Lightly smoky, with hints of spun honey. The body is medium to full and is rich, smooth and lightly oily in texture. Starts sweet, quickly seasoned with a shake of salt and pepper and has a long, gently warming and very lightly peaty finish, slightly mouth-cooling, with smoke lingering in the aftertaste.