A RARE ARDBEG: THE ABYSS

         RICH TASTE GRIPPING TALE: ARDBEG'S EXTREMELY RARE NEW WHISKY

Like many products, a higher price often indicates a more premium whisky. And there are several key factors that typically determine the cost of whisky. First and foremost is the quality of the ingredients used: the choice of barley and the source of the water both contribute significantly to the whisky’s overall flavour profile. Whiskies that also mature for longer periods develop complex and nuanced flavours and aromas that justify their premium pricing, so the ageing process is equally important, driving the price of a release up.

IN 2008, ARDBEG released a 19-year-old limited edition whisky known as the Ardbeg Corryvreckan, which made quite a splash at the time. Made especially for its loyal following, the deep, peaty, peppery dram was the stuff of Ardbeggian legend – its complex, swirling aromas saw it named after the powerful Corryvreckan whirlpool, a natural wonder which sits off the west coast of Scotland. At the 2010 World Whiskies Awards, it won the World’s Best Single Malt, cementing its place as one of the famed Islay distillery’s most unique spirits.

Originally released in 2008, the limited-edition Corryvreckan started from some of the first juice distilled when Ardbeg re-opened in 1989 after an eight-year slumber. The whisky aged for an unspecified time in ex-bourbon barrels before being transferred to very particular French oak casks. Heavily toasted to an exact specification, these “ultra-active” casks lent the double-barreled whisky a unique profile that resonated with whisky fans worldwide, creating something with the peated single malt that had never quite been made before. The resulting whisky had “hair-raising depths”, and quickly became a favourite.

Almost all of these truly singular casks were bottled, sold and drank when the Corryvreckan went on sale in 2008. Almost all—a lone few were pushed to a cold, dark corner of the distillery where they were left to Rip Van Winkle. Now, 16 years later, Ardbeg has released a new limited-edition whisky, which carries on the legacy of the original Corryvreckan while pushing it into a whole new realm of flavour. From the last surviving barrels of that limited 2008 bottling comes Ardbeg The Abyss, a 34-year-old spirit that Ardbeg describes as “a rare taste of an Ardbeg icon revived, and reimagined”.

Rare is the keyword here. Only 400 bottles of The Abyss exist, each of them individually numbered. Priced at ~$30,000 It features a complex flavour profile with notes of peat, toasted marshmallows, dark chocolate, pecans, leather, and creosote.

Ardbeg The Abyss is presented as no whisky has ever been presented before. The whisky and the comic book sit alongside each other within a unique casing, itself inspired by the whirlpool at the heart of the story and the dramatic twists and turns of the whisky’s flavours. Complete with port holes, gauges and a masterfully-engineered locking mechanism, this extraordinary space-capsule-meets-diving-chamber is itself a journey of discovery and hidden depths.

Craftsmanship plays a crucial role in the price point of the whisky: the techniques employed during distillation and maturation are reflective of the care and attention deployed by distilleries during the production of their final drops. Distilleries that use more artisanal, small-batch production across many years can also improve the quality (and therefore cost) of the release. The specially toasted French casks impart an extraordinary depth of flavour to the Abyss, with only a handful preserved after the original bottling. This active maturation has elevated the entire complexion of the whisky, resulting in a complicated drop that reflects a rich, nuanced and dark profile.

Just like its predecessor, The Abyss emanates from a 1989 spirit. First aged in bourbon casks, it was then transported into ‘ultra-active’ French oak casks for maturation. Patented by Ardbeg, these special casks have undergone a unique rejuvenation process, which enhances their ability to impart flavour and colour – in this case, the hue of The Abyss is best described as deep autumn sunset, which looks just as rich as it tastes.

Speaking of taste, the spirit is described as having a delightfully mellow mouthfeel that’s complemented by a hint of spiciness, followed by bold flavours of dark chocolate, pecan nut toffee, old leather, clove, ginger with a touch of treacle and creosote to follow. Its finish is characterised by smoke, yet here, it’s beautifully integrated with oak tannins, hints of baked apple and aniseed. On the aroma front, we detect toasted marshmallows, fragrant tea leaves, roasted chestnuts, the smell of sourdough bread baking in the oven and even something zesty – lemon balsam, perhaps. The experts at Ardbeg advise that a splash of water opens up the bouquet to reveal herbal top notes, lemon sorbet and pine.

Time has transported this descendent of the Ardbeg Corryvreckan into a world of its own. It nods to the past, but really, its flavour profile looks towards the future. So does its ingenious packaging; inspired by diving and space suits, the bottle’s silver capsule evokes both space and sea. It calls to mind the original Corryvreckan campaign, which featured a diver setting off from the distillery to take on the mighty yet treacherous whirlpool.

To build this mythology out further, each bottle comes with a graphic novel by famed comic book artist Tradd Moore. Set on the fictional Planet Ardbeg, it reimagines the tale of Norse King Breacan being swept into the whirlpool. According to Scottish lore, Breacan moored his boat near the whirlpool to impress a local princess, before being swept into the whirlpool, his body later dragged ashore by his dog.

MANUFACTURER’S TASTING NOTES

Colour: Deep autumn sunset

Nose: Rich, pungent and aromatic, but mellow, deep and gentle at the same time. Aromas of toasting marshmallows, aromatic tea leaves, roasted chestnut and baking sourdough bread draw you in, with something altogether zestier circling nearby, like lemon balsam. There is a lingering, background sweetness, like demerara sugar, and then a whiff of antique leather. A splash of water opens up the bouquet to reveal more herbal top notes, with a whisper of lemon sherbet and pine resin.

Palate: A wonderfully mellow mouthfeel with a hint of spiciness, which takes a dramatic turn when bold new flavours enter: dark chocolate, pecan nut toffee, old leather, clove, ginger and a touch of treacle and creosote. The smoke is always there, beautifully entwined with the oak tannins.

Finish: On the aftertaste, enticing hints of baked apple, aniseed and oak.

It’s not every day a whisky this rare, and with such a rich backstory, becomes available. Yet true to its exclusivity, The Abyss isn’t easy to get ahold of – you can find it at the Distillery Visitor Centre on the island of Islay, or, elsewhere, by signing up to the Ardbeg Committee, the brand’s VIP client community. Again, reflecting its rarity, each bottle is priced at $30,000. If you’re a serious collector with a palate for the ultimate Islay malt whiskies, don’t sleep on The Ardbeg Abyss. It’s set to become a legend in its own right, a 34-year-old whisky aimed directly at the fine and rare market.