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Thursday, 9 January 2025

SNIPPETS OF 2024

 SNIPPETS FROM THE SCOTCH WORLD-2024

ROYAL WARRANTS FOR 2024

King Charles III has granted Royal Warrants to 386 disparate companies that previously held similar appointments from his late mother, Queen Elizabeth II. Five have been granted to Diageo brands, of which three are for Scotch Whisky companies, recognising Diageo’s historic ties to the British Royal Household. These three are Justerini & Brooks Wine & Spirits Merchants, John Walker & Sons (Johnnie Walker) and Royal Lochnagar Scotch Whisky. Another whisky company awarded the Warrant is Matthew Gloag & Son for The Famous Grouse.

For Diageo’s brands, these warrants represent centuries of royal service. Justerini & Brooks’ connection dates to 1761, when the merchant supplied wines for King George III’s coronation. Johnnie Walker has held its warrant since King George V’s reign in 1934. The award of these new Royal Warrants to His Majesty The King to these companies permits them to display His Majesty’s Royal Arms on their brands’ labels and facades. Also awarded are Taylor’s (The Fladgate Partnership) Scotch Whisky and Laphroaig Distillery (Suntory Global Spirits) for Gin.

2025 WORLD WHISKIES PRELIMINARY AWARDS FOR BLENDED SCOTCH


World Whiskies Awards Scotland results have recently been announced, whereby the winning whiskies from the Scotland qualification heats will compete on a global stage this March against the category winners and competitors from other regional competitions in France, Ireland, Canada, Japan, the U.S.A., India, Taiwan and the Rest of the World. These exceptional blended scotch whiskies were crowned category winners, with subcategories based on their age statements, ranging from NAS to 21-years-old. The types of Blended Scotch whiskies are:

Blended Grain Scotch Whisky: A blend of two or more Single Grain Scotch Whiskies from different distilleries. They must include both malt and grain spirits.

Blended Malt Scotch Whisky: A blend of two or more Single Malt Scotch Whiskies from different distilleries, with no grain whisky included. These must include only one category of whisky (malt or grain) but sourced from multiple distilleries.

The awardees are:


1.  The Borders Distillery WS:02 The Long and Short of It: Category NAS

The new Borders Distillery, located in the southeast of Scotland, experimented with fermentation in this blended whisky release. This is the second release in the brand’s Workshop Series (WS:02), in which distillers juggle with the traditional boundaries of whisky-making to produce unique expressions. To create WS:02, the distillers fermented one batch of mash for 55 hours (the short of it) and one batch for 150 hours (the long of it). These batches were then distilled twice and matured in first-fill ex-bourbon barrels. Then, the whisky was blended with single grain whisky, chill-filtered, and bottled at 40% ABV, with No Age Statement. RRP: £45.

2.  Scottish Leader Original Blended Scotch Whisky: Category Below 12 Years

Scottish Leader is a longstanding blended scotch whisky. The original recipe dates back to 19th century Dumbarton, Scotland. However, the brand was not created until 1976. It has become a well-established classic in countries around the world. In 2014, Scottish Leader underwent a rebrand under South African company Distell, with the Original expression now presented in a square bottle with a striking red label. The old deer logo was also replaced with a soaring eagle. Despite these modern updates, Scottish Leader Original remains a popular and dependable blended scotch whisky, with expressions such as Supreme, Sherry Cask Finish, Signature, and a 12 Year Old. This version is NAS but below 12 YO.

3. White Heather 15 Year Old: Category 13-20 YO

White Heather whisky is the brainchild of a Scotch whisky industry veteran blender: Billy Walker. Walker has had an illustrious career, working at distilleries such as Tobermory, Bunnahabhain, and Glenglassaugh while also reviving BenRiach and Glenallachie.

He also revived the White Heather brand, recalling memories of enjoying a dram of White Heather in the 1970s. White Heather 15 Year Old is blend of single malt whiskies from Speyside, Islay, and the Highlands (47%) with specially selected single grain components (53%). The whisky was blended in a combination of bourbon and sherry casks. Once blended, it underwent secondary maturation in Pedro Ximénez, Oloroso and American virgin oak casks. Bottled at 46% ABV, the resulting whisky is full-bodied and perfectly balanced, with notes of heather honey that embody the brand name.

4. Dewar’s Double Double 21 Year Old

Dewar’s is no stranger to awards, having collected a great deal due to its versatile and perfectly sippable range. The company, for which Stephanie Macleod is Master Blender, attributes this to Macleod’s pioneering ‘double aging’ process. Or, in this case, ‘double double’ aging. First, the malt whiskies are aged to their required maturity, then combined and returned to an oak cask. The same process is followed for the grain whiskies in the blend. Once both types have been prepared, they are blended together and returned to an oak cask for a secondary double maturation. Finally, the blend undergoes finishing in an ex-sherry cask. This particular 21 Year Old was finished in Oloroso sherry casks. The expression previously won ‘World’s Best Blended’ at the 2021 World Whiskies Awards finals.

GLENMORANGIE’S INTERACTIVE ‘WONDER MACHINE’ AT HEATHROW TERMINAL 2

Glenmorangie's experimental Wonder Machine, opened on Christmas Eve at its London Heathrow Airport Terminal 2 boutique, combines digital technology with sensory exploration to match travellers with their ideal single malt. This follows Diageo’s booth built on similar lines. Moët Hennessy Travel Retail’s innovative whisky discovery experience at the Airport brings an unprecedented level of personalisation to duty-free shopping. The installation features sophisticated technology housed within a whimsical, still-inspired design. Visitors interact with a copper-encased touchpad shaped like a Glenmorangie still —crafted by The Whisky Creation Team, led by Dr. Bill Lumsden—beginning their journey by selecting a ‘whisky personality’ based on the distillery’s core values.                                                                       

The experience incorporates six distinct aromas created by 

Glennmorangie Master Blender Gillian Macdonald in collaboration with a perfumer. These scents range from roasted coffee beans, highlighting Glenmorangie Signet’s mocha character, to melting toffee representing Glenmorangie Elementa. Complementing the olfactory journey, travellers can explore curated soundscapes matched to each whisky’s character. These include the rhythmic heartbeat associated with Glenmorangie The Original and the crackling of coffee beans that hints at Signet’s intensity. After analysing user preferences, the Wonder Machine recommends a personalised whisky match, which visitors can sample at the boutique’s bar. 

ROBOTS CAN TASTE WHISKY BETTER THAN YOU

Robots are coming for your whisky tasting notes. In a breakthrough development that could reshape how we analyse spirits, German researchers have created an AI system that outperforms human experts in identifying whisky origins and aromas. The AI algorithm, developed at the Fraunhofer Institute for Process Engineering and Packaging IVV, didn’t just match expert tasters – it surpassed them, achieving 100% accuracy in distinguishing American whiskey from Scotch whisky when analysing molecular data. Dr. Andreas Grasskamp’s team found that specific compounds acted as definitive markers – menthol and citronellol for American whiskey, while methyl decanoate and heptanoic acid revealed Scotch whisky origins. Even using only flavour descriptions, the system achieved 94% accuracy.

This is not a harbinger spelling the end of whisky reviews or critical appraisals. While AI can detect compounds, it can’t determine what makes a whisky “good” or “bad” – that remains innately subjective. It does, however, highlight potential quality control applications. The flavour notes of a whisky brand could be quickly checked from batch to batch or blend to blend based on the chemical signature alone. Is the job of the Master Blender at threat?

BALLANTINE’S LAUNCHES 40 YO CHAPTER TWO OF THE MASTERCLASS COLLECTION

The Ballantine’s 40 Year Old Masterclass Collection will have five chapters to pay homage to the five Ballantine’s Master Blenders. It unveiled the second chapter of the Ballantine’s 40 Year Old Masterclass Collection: Chapter Two ‘The Waiting’ early Dec 2024.

Only 108 bottles of the 40 year old blend have been produced. They are now available at global specialist retailers for an RRP of $12,000. Chapter One, The Remembering, was released in 2023. Chapters Three and Four are expected to be released in 2025 and 2026 respectively, with Chapter Five coming in 2027, marking Ballantine’s 200th anniversary.

Chapter Two ‘The Waiting’ is inspired by an essential ingredient in whisky making: patience, which is particularly important when creating a high age statement Scotch whisky. Master Blender, Sandy Hyslop, drew on his experiences starting from his apprentice days under former Master Blender, Jack Goudy requested the latter to lay down the casks used to create the 40 year old blend, with the whisky being matured in American oak casks for four decades.

The resulting whisky, bottled at 45.4% ABV, is an opulent and complex whisky, with smooth sweet tones and a hint of gentle smoke. Chapter Two ‘The Waiting’ is presented in individually numbered bottles which, in turn, are housed in a sleek presentation box. Scottish artist, Kyla McCallum created a 3D paper art piece for the inside of the box, which each chapter featuring a different design.

CHIVAS REGAL PLAYS WITH SMOKE WITH NEW EXTRA SMOKY CASK SELECTION

In the latest addition to the Extra range, blended Scotch whisky brand Chivas Regal has unveiled the Chivas Regal Extra Smoky Cask Selection. The expression combines the Chivas Regal house style with gentle and smooth smoke. Chivas Regal Extra Smoky Cask Selection was launched exclusively in Turkey November 2024 and is now rolling out globally.

Chivas Regal has always used smoky casks as part of the Chivas Regal blend. However, where the standard expression carries very subtle smoky notes, this new release takes the notes to a new level. The blend was finished in specially selected smoky casks that had previously been used to mature peated whisky, imparting a distinctive smoky flavor that perfectly compliments the smooth and sippable nature of Chivas Regal scotch. The resulting blended Scotch whisky boasts aromas of spiced apples and roasted chestnuts followed by cranberries, sweet caramel, and gingerbread on the palate. The whisky ends with star anise and bonfire smoke.

The Smoky Cask Selection features packaging that captures the essence of its smoky profile. The design combines deep charcoal tones with elegant golden lines, seamlessly integrating the brand’s signature shield and crossed spears. These symbols, representing loyalty and protection, pay homage to James and John Chivas, whose pioneering spirit established the legacy of the brand, a timeless repeat of the memorial debut of the first ever Chivas Regal, the 25 YO that made its debut in the USA in 1909.

THE NEW DIAGEO LUXURY GROUP WILL UNITE LUXURY SPIRIT BRANDS

Diageo announced in Nov 2024 the creation of a new global division that will oversee the Diageo Luxury brands. The Diageo Luxury Group will unite brands such as Port Ellen and Brora and brand homes such as Johnnie Walker Princes Street under one portfolio.

The new division will be responsible for directing luxury strategies and accelerating growth for brands that retail for $100 and above. In partnership with brand stewards, Diageo Luxury Group hopes to capitalise on the rapidly growing luxury international spirits category.

The Diageo Luxury Group

Diageo ambitious new division, the Diageo Luxury Group (DLG), is set to revolutionise the spirits industry through a focus on influential global cities, travel retail, and its home market of Great Britain—the heartland of Scotch whisky. This initiative coincides with the launch of the Diageo Luxury Company (DLC) in Great Britain, which will champion luxury brand building and immersive consumer experiences within the premium spirits segment, targeting price points of £30 and above.

The DLG boasts unparalleled access to Diageo’s renowned portfolio, including over 10 million casks from more than 30 distilleries. This treasure trove features rare “ghost” stocks from restored distilleries such as Port Ellen and Brora. Diageo’s 15 brand homes, including the iconic Johnnie Walker Princes Street—which has attracted over a million visitors since its 2021 opening—serve as cornerstones of the group’s luxury positioning.

Additionally, the DLG will oversee the evolution of Justerini & Brooks, a 275-year-old fine wine and spirits merchant celebrated for its quality and heritage. Its Burlington Arcade location will further enhance its standing as a premier destination for connoisseurs.

Among the highlights is Casks of Distinction, an exclusive cask ownership program offering access to singular, mature Scotch whisky casks. Following the success of its first collection, the second release of The Twelve promises unparalleled rarity and craftsmanship.

The Twelve Casks of Distinction 2024

1. Talisker 1975 Cask No. 4966, 47.8%

Island single malt scotch, refill American oak hogshead, estimated yield 155 bottles.

2. Brora 1977 Cask No. 2845, 47.8%

Highland single malt Scotch, refill American oak hogshead, estimated yield 158 bottles.

3. Talisker 1986 Cask No. 896, 47.2%

Island single malt Scotch, freshly charred American oak hogshead, estimated yield 153 bottles.

4. Royal Lochnagar 1988 Cask No. 1119, 50.9%

Highland single malt Scotch, refill American oak “charred ends” hogshead, estimated yield 168 bottles.

5. Dalwhinnie 1989 Cask No. 3754, 47%

Speyside single malt Scotch, refill American oak hogshead, estimated yield 214 bottles.

6. Caol Ila 1990 Cask No. 9243, 48.9%

Islay single malt Scotch, refill American oak hogshead, estimated yield 201 bottles.

7. Clynelish 1990 Cask No. 12016, 53.6%

Highland single malt Scotch, refill American oak hogshead, estimated yield 333 bottles.

8. Cragganmore 1990 Cask No. 388, 57.3%

Speyside single malt Scotch, refill American oak hogshead, estimated yield 146 bottles.

9. Linkwood 1990 Cask No. 7805, 52.9%

Speyside single malt Scotch, refill American oak hogshead, estimated yield 164 bottles.

10. Auchroisk 1991 Cask No. 572018, 48.2%

Speyside single malt Scotch, wine-seasoned American oak hogshead, estimated yield 238 bottles.

11. Benrinnes 1992 Cask No. 9554, 53%

Speyside single malt Scotch, first-fill European oak sherry butt, estimated yield 362 bottles.

12. Inchgower 1992 Cask No. 2754, 50.7%

Speyside single malt Scotch, refill American oak barrel, estimated yield 131 bottles.

THE DALMORE 2024 VINTAGE COLLECTION WHISKIES

                      

An annual release, The Dalmore Vintage Collection showcases vintage-statement whiskies from The Dalmore’s portfolio and celebrates the distillery’s unique character.

Each November for the past five decades, the whisky makers at The Dalmore have nosed and assessed the maturing casks in the distillery warehouses. The cold November air opens the spirit up following maturation in the summer heat, making it the ultimate month to assess the whisky. Following assessment, a small number of casks are hand-selected to be considered for the following year’s Vintage Collection. Only the finest whiskies are selected, usually at 15 and 18 years old.

The Dalmore Distillery has unveiled two new expressions comprising The Vintage Collection 2024 offerings, The Dalmore Vintage 2009 and The Dalmore Vintage 2006 at RRPs of £173 (~$218) and £403 (~$508) respectively. Each Vintage Collection release displays a different element of The Dalmore’s house style. This year’s whiskies were chosen because of their “rich decadent desserts” profiles.

The younger of the two whiskies is The Dalmore Vintage 2009, bottled at 15 years of age and 48.9% ABV. Matured initially in American white oak ex-bourbon, the whisky was dual finished in Matusalem sherry casks and 10 year old Tawny port pipes sourced from The Dalmore’s longstanding cask partners – González Byass and Graham’s Port. Dalmore also uses their casks in The Dalmore Cask Curation Series. This unique spirit was first finessed in 30 Year Old Matusalem Oloroso Sherry Casks from González Byass, after which the whisky spends a further period in 10 Year Old Tawny Port pipes, sourced from Graham’s Port.

The 18 Year Old Dalmore Vintage 2006 was bottled at 47.2% ABV following maturation in American white oak ex-bourbon barrels and finishing in rare 30-year-old Matusalem and Amoroso sherry casks. Presented at natural colour and non-chill filtered. On the nose, sherry-soaked raisins blend with roasted figs, cedar wood, and honey. The Amaroso isn’t overdone so the palate reveals dark fruit, liquorice, and cacao, with hints of bergamot and blood orange. Its finish is rich with antique sherry notes, berries, cassia bark, and dark chocolate. Great stuff, if expensive. 

WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS SCOTLAND 2025: BEST NAS SINGLE MALT SCOTCH     


The ever-evolving panoply of No Age Statement (NAS) single malt scotch whiskies, which are either a pain in the gut or an accepted affordable option for single malt fans throws up quite a few new names. Most whiskies from middle-latitude countries are necessarily young in age due temperature constraints, but there should be no real reason for such whiskies from Scotland. Yet there are plenty, and delicious ones to savour.

The top NAS single malts that triumphed in their respective Scottish whisky regions are detailed infra.

Glen Scotia Double Cask Rum Finish: Campbeltown

This expression from Glen Scotia Distillery in Campbeltown, is a tribute to the town's history as a busy and thriving whisky centre of the past, particularly in the 18th century. The Double Cask Rum Finish is a unique twist on Glen Scotia's popular Double Cask expression. The NAS whisky is distilled from only Scottish malted barley, matured in first-fill ex-bourbon barrels, and finished in Demerara rum casks, bottled at 46% ABV.

Glenmorangie Signet Reserve: Highlands

This really expensive expression offers a rich and sybaritic tasting experience, constituting a step up from the standard Signet expression. Parcels of matured Glenmorangie Signet are selected by the Glenmorangie Whisky Creation Team and matured for an additional 12-month period in Pedro Ximénez sherry casks. It is bottled at 46% ABV. It is believed that Glenmorangie Signet and its elder sibling, the Reserve, contain some very rare Glenmorangie stock, and constitute a pleasurable and complex whisky-drinking experience.

Arran The Bodega Sherry Cask: Islands (Non-Islay)

This expression from Arran and the Lochranza Distillery is part of the bestselling brand's core range, and aims to showcase the complexity of sherry cask maturation. Matured exclusively in specially selected sherry casks from bodegas in Jerez, Spain, the whisky is bottled at natural cask strength, 55.8% ABV, presented in its unadulterated, purest form and retains its full non chill-filtered flavour. Scottish malted barley, yeast, Loch na Davie water, matured in Spanish oak sherry casks.

Ardbeg Corryvreckan- Islay

Whirlpool Corryvreckan takes its name from the Gulf of the same name that contains the whirlpool that characterises its waters, located between the islands of Jura and Islay, and one of the largest in Europe. Apparently, the whirlpool is named after the Viking Prince Breacan, who perished when he attempted to prove his love for an Islay princess by lasting three full nights on a boat in the whirlpool’s swirl. Goddess Cailleach Bheare, guardian of the whirlpool, took pity on Prince Breacan and brought him down to her dark lair at the bottom of the sea where he has slept ever since. Lo and behold, he has finally awoken in a bottle of whisky.

Ardbeg Corryvreckan is, by Ardbeg's admission "not for the faint-hearted". And yet, this single malt scotch has garnered fans across the globe and was even named ‘World's Best Single Malt' in 2010. Distilled from 100% Scottish malted barley, this whisky is matured in ex-bourbon and French oak casks for an unspecified time, adding to the mysterious intrigue surrounding this expression, bottled at 57.1% ABV. In June 2024, Ardbeg revived the legend of Corryvreckan with the release of The Abyss – an extension of the original Corryvreckan which was released in 2008.

Released in 2008, the original Ardbeg Corryvreckan limited edition had, at its heart, spirit matured in ultra-active French oak casks. These unusual casks, heavily toasted to an exact specification, rendered them more powerful than a standard French oak barrique. These were the casks that made the original Corryvreckan a favourite among fans and an icon among single malts. But Ardbeg is running short of aged whiskies for the Corryvreckan-hence its rebirth in much milder form as the 48% ABV The Abyss.

Holyrood Distillery Embra- Lowlands

Embra, from Holyrood Distillery in the Scottish Lowlands, takes its name from a colloquial term for Edinburgh, Scotland's capital and Holyrood's home. This is the second single malt release from Holyrood, preceded by Arrival and followed by Ambir. Embra presents a smooth balance of smoky flavours and rich textures. Featuring a diverse range of yeasts, including two distillers strains, three brewers yeasts, and two wine yeasts.

The distillery prides itself on doing something different with each expression. The idea for Embra was to produce a dram that is "a wee bit smoky" but still accessible to beginner whisky drinkers, an introduction to peated whisky. Embra is matured in a combination of majority first-fill bourbon with peated Islay quarter casks and new American oak in supporting roles, bottled at 43.6% ABV.

Glen Moray Phoenix Rising- Speyside

Glen Moray, a discard from the Glenmorangie stable when the latter was purchased by LVMH, has been doing extremely well for itself since 2004, featuring in the top few in multiple competitions. Launched in late 2023, Glen Moray Phoenix Rising paid tribute to the phoenix – a mythical bird that is reborn from its ashes once it dies. Phoenix Rising was finished in virgin oak charred casks – a rarity for the Scotch whisky industry.

Rather like that mythical bird, new charred oak casks are scorched by fire. And just as the phoenix is reborn from its ashes, these casks bring a whole new spectrum of flavour to life. It’s a difficult to obtain whisky, such was its popularity as a limited edition. 40% ABV.

2025 WORLD WHISKIES PRELIMINARY AWARDS FOR ISLAY SCOTCH WHISKY


Islay single malt Scotch whiskies need little amplification by way of introduction, so well are they known. The region is characterised by whiskies with a peat smoke aroma, such as Laphroaig, Lagavulin, Ardbeg and more. Some distilleries do produce unpeated whiskies, however. The World Whisky Awards have made their preliminary selections for the ‘World’s Best’ titles at the World Whiskies Awards, joined by the winners of other regional competitions, in the annual function in London in March 2025.

The whiskies are listed below:

Ardbeg Corryvreckan: NAS

As mentioned earlier, Ardbeg Corryvreckan reflects Ardbeg’s boldness – a single malt celebrated worldwide despite its reputation as “not for the faint-hearted.” Named ‘World’s Best Single Malt’ in 2010, it has become a cornerstone of Ardbeg’s enduring legacy.

Ben Bracken Islay Single Malt Scotch: Islay Aged 12 YO & Under

Ben Bracken is not a distillery in Scotland, rather it is the label under which Lidl, Germany, sells single malt scotch whisky at extremely low prices. At such affordable prices and with awards under its belt, Ben Bracken has found a reliable fanbase.

Whiskies from Speyside and the Highlands are also bottled under this label, but this particular expression hails from Islay. The distillery at which this whisky was distilled is not specified, although there are rumours that it comes from Bowmore.

According to the Lidl website, this whisky is three years old, and bottled at 40% ABV. At Lidl supermarkets, the bottle retails for around £16!

Ardbeg 17-Year-Old: Islay Aged 13-20 Years

The recently revived Arbdeg 17-Year-Old is picking up awards. Once reintroduced as an Ardbeg Committee exclusive in September 2024, the Ardbeg 17-Year-Old is a cult classic from the Islay distillery. First bottled in 1997, it quickly became a staple product, notable for its gentle peat smoke and multi-layered profile. Ardbeg fans were aghast when the whisky was discontinued in 2004. The 17-Year-Old has now been faithfully recreated by the distillery’s Whisky Creation Team – a blend of peated and unpeated single malt bottled at 40% ABV.

Ardbeg 25 Year Old: Islay Aged 21 Years & Over

The oldest whisky in Ardbeg’s core range, the 25 Year Old was permanently added to the distillery’s portfolio in January 2021. Bottled after 25 years of maturation, this whisky was distilled in the mid-late 1990s, just before Ardbeg was transformed when purchased by Glenmorangie plc in 1997. It is an LVMH product today.

According to the Ardbeg website, the 25 Year Old was bottled from incredibly rare casks filled during some of the Distillery’s darkest days, in one of its many closures. That said, the nature of the whisky inside the bottle is truly Ardbeggian, the peatiness of which has not been tamed by 25 years in the cask. 

INAUGURAL FIRST LEGAL WHISKY LAUNCH FROM ISLE OF TIREE IN 200 YEARS


The Isle of Tiree is the most westerly island of the Inner Hebrides. It is relatively small - about twelve miles long and three miles wide - and very flat. Although the island is famous for its fertility it has been described variously as 'a raised beach' and 'the land below the waves'. The island has a mild climate with some of the highest levels of sunshine recorded anywhere in the British Isles. It benefits from the moderating influence of the Gulf Stream ensuring that frost is rare and evenings in mid-summer are warm and balmy.

The Isle of Tiree – sometimes known as Tir an Eòrna (Land of Barley) in Gaelic – was once home to ‘no less than fifty distillers’ yet, unlike other islands, Tiree never re-established a distillery until more recent years. Tiree Whisky Company Ltd was formed to preserve and promote the island’s whisky heritage, while aiming to revive distilling on the island.

The Isle of Tiree Distillery, the island’s first legal operational distillery since the 1800s, is now home to one of the smallest, most traditional whisky production operations that Scotland has to offer. Each part of the process is precisely handcrafted with a keen eye on the past but an enthusiastic vision of the future.

Alongside Isle of Tiree Single Malt Scotch Whisky and Isle of Tiree Single Grain Scotch Whisky – Rye, the distillery also produces gin. Historically, the economy of Tiree had been based on the production of grain since ancient times. Renowned for fertile and easily worked soil and long growing seasons, the island was unique in the Hebrides. Tiree was also famous for the production of whisky and, at one time, supplied a number of the neighbouring islands.

TIREE WHISKY COMPANY LTD was established in 2012 to preserve and promote the island’s whisky heritage and to revive distilling on the island. Much has changed in Tiree since the last legal still was extinguished in the 1800s but the techniques and processes used in the production of the spirit have changed little. Isle of Tiree Distillery was founded by folk musicians Alain Campbell and Ian Smith; the distillery represents a revival of the island’s rich distilling tradition, which once boasted 50 illicit distilleries before the 1800s. However, since the closure of these illicit distilleries, whisky-making has not been undertaken on the island. That was until 2019, when the stills were lit at the Isle of Tiree Distillery.

Their FIRST RELEASE has been handcrafted by mashing unpeated malted barley in mesh mash bags – hoisted high on wooden blocks to lauter clear the wort into a small oak mash tun. This is followed by an extra-long fermentation in oak washbacks.  First distillations take place in wide copper wash stills over direct flame in small copper pot stills followed by carefully distilling the spirit in a 300L spirit still. Maturation takes place less than 100 metres from the North Atlantic Ocean in specially selected small American Oak ex-Bourbon barrels as well as their first cask, a 50L Virgin Oak cask, before spending a further two years in first-fill Oloroso Sherry casks from Spain’s finest producers. The result is the first expression of Tiree Whisky in over 200 years.

Limited Release and Future Prospects

The inaugural release of Isle of Tiree Single Malt Scotch Whisky is limited to 800 bottles, priced at £199.99. Following a successful pre-sale where 400 bottles sold out in under two hours, the remaining allocation is expected to generate significant interest among collectors and enthusiasts. The distillery will auction the first 10 bottles starting January 31, with 10% of proceeds benefiting local island charities, demonstrating their commitment to community support. 

Offered at 47% ABV, the whisky is available on the distillery’s website. Isle of Tiree Distillery will also offer a limited number of private casks in the spring. For the co-founders,this is an important moment in the island’s history as it reconnects with an industry that was once such an important part of island life. As well as providing local employment, it is hoped that the distillery will encourage visitors from all over the world to come to Tiree.

 


Tuesday, 7 January 2025

REOPENED CLASSIC LOST DISTILLERIES

 BRORA AND PORT ELLEN PROGRESS

Resetting a closed distillery to make whisky requires playing the long game. While new make in oak barrels may be called Scotch whisky only after three years of maturation, the most sought-after whiskies lie in wood barrels in dormant distilleries for far longer, usually decades, like Strathisla, Glenturret, Glendronach, Caperdonich, Ardbeg, Brora and Port Ellen.

Brora Distillery: Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky

Brora – or as it was originally known, Clynelish – is one of Scotland’s Clearance distilleries like Talisker. It was built in 1819 by the Marquis of Stafford (later the Duke of Sutherland) who with his wife and her estate managers forced some of the most brutal evictions of 15,000 farmers from their estates in the Highlands and resettled either on the coast, or sent to Canada and Australia. They remain controversial for their role in the Highland Clearances for their singular apathy for the hoi polloi, their parsimony and their focussed pursuit of wealth, firstly for award of a Dukedom and secondly, for personal gains at any cost.

Those who ended up in the new settlement at Brora were put to work in the Duke’s new business enterprises, one of which was distilling. It took some time for the distillery to find its feet, passing through a number of lessees until George Lawson took charge. He and his sons would run the plant from 1846 to 1896 when they sold it to the Glasgow blender James Ainslie and his business partner John Risk who rebuilt the site that year.

Ainslie himself went bust in 1912 when Risk and DCL took shares in the firm, John Walker & Sons following in 1916. Risk was bought out in 1925, when Walker joined DCL and the latter took complete control in 1930. It wasn’t until after WW II that the distillery began to increase capacity significantly as a result of demand for blends increasing. By 1967, this had reached such a height that it was decided that it would be easier to build a new and larger distillery – initially known as Clynelish 2 – alongside the original buildings than try to expand them.

The old distillery closed for a year, but reopened in 1969 and was in production, though not always at full capacity, until it closed in 1983. In 1975, after a change in legislation banning two distilleries from being called the same, its name was changed to Brora. During 1972 to 1974 when DCL’s Caol Ila was being rebuilt, production of heavily peated malt was switched here. Also, during periods of drought on Islay, the production of DCL’s heavily peated requirements was switched to the far north east. This could explain why although Brora’s peating levels in general dropped after 1977, there are occasional heavily smoky expressions from the 1980s.

The distillery was closed finally in 1983, and although rumours surfaced occasionally about it reopening they seemed little more than wishful thinking. However, in October 2017 Diageo revealed plans to reopen Brora distillery, which reopened its shutters in post-pandemic 2021.

The bottlings which we now see come from Brora’s last flaring. As a result of the time when the distillery was run specifically to fill in holes in DCL’s inventory you will find Broras which are immensely oily and smoky, as well as some in which there is the merest exhalation of peat. The waxy, oily, marine/mineral characters seen in Clynelish are however always present, but in magnified form. Rather than the orange oil of Clynelish, here there is more lemon acidity. There was, also, a small run of bottlings with a butyric character. Since many of the original buildings were still standing and much of the whisky-making apparatus – including two copper stills – remained in situ, the Diageo team set out to honour the distillery’s heritage by recreating the three key styles of its past.

When the restoration team first walked into the famous Brora whisky distillery three years ago, it appeared as if time had stood still. Production had stopped suddenly in 1983 and workers had simply downed their tools and walked away. The team set about bringing Scotland’s most fabled ghost distillery back from the dead. This week, the resurrection was complete. The first cask was filled and a new era began.

Brora’s legendary reputation is the symbol of Scotch whisky’s great revival over the last decade. It closed in 1983 due to oversupply and underwhelming demand. Unbeknownst to distillers at the time, a large proportion of Brora’s leftover stock would age beautifully. At the same time, demand for aged single malts rose rapidly. As the demand went up and supply went down, the price sky-rocketed. Today, the last remaining bottles from Brora’s original stocks sell for tens of thousands of dollars.

No expense was spared in Diageo’s efforts to recreate every detail of the original distillation process. Diageo transported the original stills hundreds of miles across Scotland to its Abercrombie Coppersmiths to have them refurbished by skilled hands, the original stillhouse was rebuilt brick-by-brick and it also installed a traditional rake and gear mash tun to mimic the exact process from 1983. The rebuild, of course, is only part of the challenge.

On 21st May 2021, the Brora Distillery opened its gates after more than thirty-eight years of closure. Set in the rolling hillsides of Sutherland, northeast Scotland in picturesque courtyards and surroundings, production resumed under the watchful eye of the Master Distiller, Stewart Bowman. Staff filled the first casks of 2021 amidst great fanfare with new make spirit from the stills in July. Thus, a new era has begun as the casks’ contents mature to become premium Brora whisky.

In July 2024, the reopened distillery’s first new-make spirit officially came of age. To celebrate, Brora launched the Eras of Brora tour (£1,800 or US$2,260 for two), which includes the chance to taste the Brora 3-Year-Old from one of the very first casks. The distillery also released 150 bottles of 44-Year-Old Untold Depths, from a single cask of 1977 stock, at an RRP of £10,000 apiece sold only at the distillery.

During the closure four decade long spanned, stocks of the brand’s bottled and cask whiskies appreciated significantly. Some of Brora’s legendary and much sought-after single malt Scotch have achieved cult status among connoisseurs, collectors and investors alike. In 2017, during Brora’s period of dormancy, an original Brora single malt distilled in 1972 – the oldest official bottle of Brora at that time – was bought at auction by an unnamed buyer for £14,500. In 2019 it released a 40-year-old 200th Anniversary Quintessential scotch. This golden, smoky Highland liquor boasted rich flavours of figs and ripe fruit. The bottling ran to 1,819 units which sold for around £4,500 apiece.                                                       

The reawakened 202-year-old distillery looks likely to continue releasing select, much-celebrated vintages. For now, a unique Brora Triptych commemorates the reopening with three different bottling runs of scarce, well-aged single malts from decades-old casks. Brora Triptych

Each of the three superb bottlings represents a distinct era of the distillery. Triptych Elusive Legacy is 48 years old, the oldest single malt scotch ever released by Brora. Triptych Age of Peat is 43 years old, in the classic late 1970s heavily smoked style. It contains 48.6 per cent ABV. The third and youngest bottling is Timeless Original, from casks filled in 1982 and almost as potent. The unique ash wood presentation cases contain three precious half-litre crystal decanters with Glencairn stoppers, filled with luxury Scotch.

Now, it is time for the distillery team to begin work in earnest. Only time will tell whether the efforts have been worthwhile. After the first cask was filled, staff reminded a group of select journalists that the public will not be seeing a bottle of new-era Brora on the shelves for some time yet. There is no plan when it comes to a future release. The whisky will ultimately decide that. Indeed, Diageo has no intention of turning the distillery into a center of mass production. Instead, it will be carefully controlled, building up to a maximum of 800,000 litres a year.  

PORT ELLEN DISTILLERY: AN ISLAY LEGEND REAWAKENS

It was pure serendipity. The magic happened because the whisky was forgotten about and left alone, though memories didn't die. Being in the less active refill casks meant the spirit could shine, and the longer it aged in the Scottish climate, the better it got. With its long pedigree and its seafront location on Islay, it became a place of pilgrimage for salivating maltheads the world over. 

Port Ellen Distillery, situated on the enchanting Isle of Islay, is a story of resilience, rebirth, and the enduring allure of exceptional whisky. Founded in 1825, Port Ellen has experienced periods of closure and revival, ultimately securing its place as a legendary Islay distillery. I have dwelt extensively on this subject in two earlier posts almost two years apart.

Port Ellen was a lost distillery on the island of Islay, as it lay closed for almost 100 years after establishment in 1825. Following its last closure in 1983, parts of it had already been demolished and the overall scheme of things was to keep allied ancillary capacities going as a self-sustaining money-spinner. The associated large-scale malting plant was built later and is still in operation. It supplies almost all distilleries on the island with individually produced malt.

Alexander Ker Mackay, a merchant and entrepreneur, established this distillery, named after the nearby harbour village. It initially struggled to find its footing, with ownership changing hands several times during its journey through time. John Ramsay acquired the distillery In 1836 and created its reputation for producing exceptional whisky. The distillery flourished and its whisky became highly sought after both domestically and abroad.

The early 20th century hurt the distillery as global economic instability and Prohibition in the USA led to reduced demand for Scotch whisky; sadly, the distillery downed shutters in 1930 and was mothballed till 1967. Though purchased by purchased by the Distillers Company Limited (DCL)—later Diageo—it couldn’t cope with the next downturn in the early 1980s when only Blended Scotch managed to keep going, and once again, rolled down the arras. The point of note was, however, crucial in that its remaining stock was left to mature in casks. These whiskies produced during its relatively short period of activity were exceptional and found a cult following among malt whisky enthusiasts.

Excitement ran rife when Diageo announced its reopening circa 2023. Port Ellen's whiskies are revered for their elegant complexity, harmonious balance of peat and fruit, and the distinctive maritime character that is the hallmark of Islay malts. Diageo was shrewd in its tactics; as they noticed a batch approaching ideal maturity, they released special editions, keeping the market on its toes. All these official special expressions, called Annual Releases, were from older casks, ranging from 20 to 35 years old, with an official bottling of almost every single age in between. Independent bottlers fed their appetite as well. Douglas Laing and Gordon & MacPhail have released a vast number of bottlings of the Single Malt at all ages. But the most impressive amount of independent bottlings of Port Ellen has been done by Signatory Vintage, reportedly bottlings of more than 100 casks.

Although it is primarily known for its Single Malt, Port Ellen was also used in a number of Blends, including King of Scot, Big Peat, and King George V.

Port Ellen has launched a set of twin 44-year-old whiskies to celebrate the return of its distillery. Named Port Ellen Gemini, the release is split into a two-bottle set: Gemini Original and Gemini Remnant. Only 274 sets are available and the expressions are the oldest single malt Scotches released directly from Port Ellen. Port Ellen Gemini invites whisky connoisseurs to compare and contrast a twin pair of 1978 Scotch whiskies, shared in its original form and finished expression. The finish is nothing short of historical: an extraordinary remnant cask that cradled three decades of Port Ellen spirit, now restored and revived, a worthy touch to this rare Scotch.

Port Ellen had a fairly modest production capacity, standing at only 1.2 million litres a year. The water used in production is drawn from the Leorin Lochs on Islay. This production had a couple of unique facets, the most noticeable of which was that the distillery’s pot stills were heated by mechanical coal stokers, which then switched to steam heated coils. Due to the enormous volume of peat on the island, most of the water on Islay actually runs a muddy brown, including the water in Leorin Lochs. The presence of peat in the water supposedly helps contribute to the unique flavour of the Islay Whiskies, as Master Blender Rachel Barrie, then of Bowmore, once concluded after a series of experiments.

The distillery had four pot stills; two wash and two spirit. The wash stills had a capacity of 28’000 litres where the two spirit stills were smaller with a capacity of 25’000 litres. All pot stills had a distinctive onion shape, with large, rounded spherical lids and tall vertical necks. Port Ellen is reputed to have been the first distillery to incorporate Septimus Fox’s spirit safe design in the distillation process.

As is characteristic of Islay malts, Port Ellen was incredibly heavily peated. Islay itself is largely composed of peat, as layers upon layers of sphagnum mosses and other vegetation have been rotting away on the Islay for hundreds of years, creating compact black banks of peat. The peat used in the production was sourced from Duich Moss, which lay on Islay itself, completely localising the entire production process. The distillery used traditional malting floors until 1974, at which point the site switched to drum maltings. These drums were a fully automated installation, and resembled washing machines on an operational level.

After the last closure of the distillery, the site was converted to a maltings site. Port Ellen now provides maltings to many of the distilleries on Islay, and further afield. The maltings has been massively successful and has allowed the legacy of the distillery to continue to live on. Port Ellen Maltings is the only commercial maltings facility located along the entire West coast of Scotland, and the only one to use peat in the kilning part of the process. It is the peat and the smoke from it being burnt that gives the barley, and ultimately Islay’s Whiskies, their distinctive smoky flavour.

The warehouses, along with the maltings, survived the closure of the distillery. The distillery has a series of both dunnage and racked warehouses. In addition to holding the remaining casks of Port Ellen, the warehouses are used by a number of Islay distilleries from the proprietor Diageo, particularly Lagavulin and Caol Ila. For the maturation of Port Ellen Whisky itself, the distillery used 80% Bourbon barrels and 20% Sherry casks.

Let us see what the future holds for Port Ellen, given the umpteen new distilleries that have come up this past decade and scheduled for the next lustrum. Will there be an overkill again, coupled with a modernisation of the concept of drinking alcohol for pleasure with scant regard for old habits-or oldtimers' habits, for that matter? Whatever the outcome be, Port Ellen from Islay will buck the trend and survive easily; its output will be lapped up greedily by a waiting populace of malt lovers of all ages!

DIAGEO LUXURY GROUP TO UNITE BRORA AND PORT ELLEN IN LUXURY PORTFOLIO

Diageo announced in Nov 2024 the creation of a new global division that will oversee the Diageo Luxury brands. The Diageo Luxury Group (DLG) will unite brands such as Port Ellen and Brora and brand homes such as Johnnie Walker Princes Street under one portfolio.

The DLG boasts unparalleled access to Diageo’s renowned portfolio, including over 10 million casks from more than 30 distilleries. This treasure trove features rare “ghost” stocks from restored distilleries such as Port Ellen and Brora. Among the highlights is the launched in 2023 12 Casks of Distinction, an exclusive cask ownership program offering access to singular, mature Scotch whisky casks.