the Most Heavily Peated Scotch WhiskIES
ARDBEG BRUICHLADDICH LAGAVULIN TO THE FORE
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This century began on a promising note for the Scotch
Whisky Industry. Interest in Scotch whisky was quietly picking up after a long
slump, and Single Malts were elbowing their way to the forefront. People were
asking, ‘What’s the most heavily peated? What's got the most smoke?’—soon to be
called peat freaks. And you could show them whichever, but there was really nothing
that was off the charts in terms of peat level. The most heavily peated single
malts at the time included Caol Ila, Lagavulin, Bowmore, and Laphroaig, which
at 40 to 50 PPM (phenol parts per million) were as peaty as it got. The previous article also deals with peat, but with a different focus.
John Glaser, a former Park Avenue client who had set up
the blending company Compass Box in London a few years back, was commissioned to
create a custom-peated whisky for New York City’s Park Avenue Liquor. A peat
monster was wanted and Glaser started with around 30 PPM, about the peat level
of Talisker. “I want it peatier,” said Glaser. So he sent him Caol Ila and the
peated Ardmore at cask strength, by far the most heavily peated whisky Glaser
had ever made. “These are monsters. I hope you like it.”
He did! Compass Box Monster sold out, and Glaser
re-released it as a widely available offering, dubbing it “The Peat Monster”—kicking
off a trend that would eventually reshape Scotch whisky.
When The Peat Monster was launched in 2003, Islay’s
Bruichladdich Distillery was laying down early runs of a super-heavily peated
whisky that would be called Octomore. Bruichladdich had only just reopened,
after years of closure, in 2001. Though Bruichladdich initially sourced its
peated maltings from Port Ellen maltings, the Go To maltings for every
distillery on Islay, financial constraints led it to switch to Baird’s Maltings
in Inverness, a fortuitous masterstroke. Baird’s, like most malting operations,
supplied barley malted to a range of specific PPMs by combining a single
heavily peated malt in different proportions with unpeated malt.
Bruichladdich’s master distiller at the time, Jim
McEwan, saw an opportunity. Why not distill just the heavily peated malt to
make a super-smoky whisky? The problem here was that Baird’s hit different
phenol levels in every batch, the peating process being somewhat imprecise—meaning
if a distiller worked with that malt alone, they would end up with an
inconsistently peated whisky from run to run. Baird would then tone them down
to specs. But McEwan didn’t care. He would just label them differently. The
Octomore Series had set sail.
20 miles away Ardbeg Distillery was doing the same
thing. By 2009 it was re-established and turning out compelling releases for a
growing legion of fans. Always heavily peated to around 55 PPM, Ardbeg had
rarely been released as a single malt before this era, so the distillery had
plenty of leeway to develop a name for itself.
Dr Bill Lumsden, currently the director of distilling,
whisky creation, and whisky stocks at Ardbeg, oversaw the distillery’s revival
and devised its many experimental and innovative releases, including one that
seemed designed to go head-to-head with Octomore: Ardbeg Supernova. Peated to
100 PPM and first launched in 2009, the limited-edition Supernova sold out
quickly, with fans worldwide clamouring for a bottle. Subsequent editions in
2010, 2014, 2015, and 2019 met the same reception.
At around the same time, i.e., after The Peat Monster’s
debut, other blending houses came out with similar products, like Peat Chimney
from Wemyss Malts in 2005, Ian Macleod’s Smokehead in 2006, and Big Peat from
Douglas Laing & Co. in 2009. At Bruichladdich McEwan pushed the maltings to
attempt ever-higher peat levels, topping out in 2017 with the launch of
Octomore 08.3, made with malt peated to a whopping 309 PPM. It was the highest
peat level so far achieved by Bruichladdich or anyone else—though a drinker
comparing 08.3 with a different iteration of Octomore might have a hard time
telling the PPMs apart, since differences in production and maturation can
dramatically impact the phenol content and its perception in the final whisky. Distilleries
cite the PPM of the malted barley used as the base ingredient rather than
measuring and sharing the PPM of the finished product.
Today, the peat arms race has reached a plateau. Though
Octomore always hits well above 80 PPM, it has little competition in the
super-heavily peated space. But the evidence of the peat wars is everywhere,
starting with consumer expectations of flavour in a whisky touted as “peaty.” The
PPMs of yesteryear no longer suffice.
After Ardbeg and Laphroaig and Octomore, Bowmore (25 to
30 PPM) and Lagavulin (35 PPM) still stoke the fires of many peat freaks. Port
Charlotte (Bruichladdich’s less heavily peated line, at 50 PPM), Laphroaig (40
to 50 PPM), Kilchoman (50 PPM), and the core expressions of Ardbeg (55 PPM)
fill out a spectrum with more offerings than ever before.
Let’s have a look at the peated whiskies you could
drink:
1. ARDBEG
Starting out with the obvious, Ardbeg’s whiskies are some of the most famous smoky scotch brands in the world. They’re a great place to start. Most releases over the past decade have been carefully crafted youngish expressions, with only one bearing its age, the Wee Beastie at 5 YO. The Standard Bearer is the Ten YO, very pale in colour, with a typical yet classic style of Islay peat on the nose; light flavours at the front palate showing lots of iodine, as expected of peat cut from coastal bogs. You can't go wrong with this one! So here are the heavy hitters:
ARDBEG HYPERNOVA, THE SMOKIEST ARDBEG… EVER!
Age: NAS ABV 51%
Hypernova is the late-2022 Committee Release from Ardbeg. There’s usually at least a couple of these limited edition bottlings each year but what makes this one particularly eye-catching is the ppm count, in other words, the amount of peat smoke in the malt. Hypernova apparently has a ppm count of 170, making it officially the smokiest Ardbeg of all time. However, the ppm count of the barley is only part of the story.
The peat smoke absorbed by barley changes and evolves,
even decreases, throughout the distillation process. Therefore, a high ppm
count pre-distillation doesn’t always translate into an ultra smoky whisky in
the bottle. The unique quirks in production that can be found at each
distillery have an effect on the flavour of the whisky, with Lagavulin and Caol
Ila providing the example. Those two
Diageo-owned distilleries use the same malt from the same maltings, are peated
to the same ppm, yet the whiskies are very different.
Bruichladdich’s Octomore series has rather set the bar
for outrageously high ppm levels but that whisky often surprises people. The
slender stills at Bruichladdich promote lighter, elegant spirits, meaning
Octomore often isn’t as smoky as expected. At Ardbeg, the stills are of a very
different design but, thanks to the addition of purifiers on the lyne arms of
the spirit stills, a similar effect takes place. The purifier filters away some
of the heavier vapours that make it to the lyne arm. Those heavier compounds
drop into the purifier pipe and return to the pot to be distilled again, whilst
the lighter vapours carry on toward the condensers. So whilst Hypernova is,
without a doubt, a very heavily peated whisky, it may not be as intense as you
imagine it to be.
Ardbeg is well-known for its brightly-coloured, often bizarrely-named limited editions, which seem to annoy some purists, a somewhat baffling response. The clientele is getting younger as the world grows older. Should we go back to the days of old-fashioned labelling, when bottles were adorned by stags and tartan and glens and bens? Of course, people are free to choose how they spend their money and if the latest release from Ardbeg isn’t to their taste, that’s completely understandable. It would be boring if everyone liked the same thing. The internet is totally globalised. So it is with whisky marketing strategies. Not every release needs to be tailored to the individual’s personal taste.
Why Hypernova? Doesn’t hyper sound more upscale than
super? There’s your answer. The previous “smokiest ever Ardbeg” was called
Supernova and the definition of a Hypernova is “a very energetic supernova.” So
in the canon of Ardbeg releases, the name makes sense.
It’s bottled at an un-chill-filtered 51% and retails
for £185. Interestingly, the malt was
smoked with non-Islay peat. This was done for purely logistical reasons –
the maltsters on Islay couldn’t achieve the numbers required and shipping Islay
peat to a maltster on the mainland would have led to a dramatically increased
carbon footprint, so mainland peat was used instead. Strange logic, considering
that the Octomore has crossed the 300 ppm barrier, but sound to its owners.
EYE: Pale gold.
NOSE: Powerful, pungent and almost brutal in its
intensity, waves of tar, smoke, sea salt and brine in an almost ‘barnyard’
aroma fill the void. Smoky – yes but perhaps not as in-your-face as you might
expect. Ethereal whispers of fruit, reminiscent of flowering blackcurrants. Seaweed.
Seashells. Tobacco ash and cigar smoke. Stoor burning on old radiators. Beyond
the smoke, there’s also liquorice, pepper, a touch of citrus and grass. Even a
wee touch of menthol. Water releases a flurry of more rounded top notes, with a
touch of lavender and a slightly chocolaty sensation, before finally arriving
at curious hints of plasticine and burnt rubber.
PALATE: An explosive, peppery mouthfeel launches the
palate into a most bizarre juxtaposition of flavours. The smoke is more to the
fore. It’s there from the first sip but it smoulders and glows menacingly
rather than blazes out of control. Charcoal. Sea salt and black pepper. Brine –
like breathing in a damp, sandy beach in winter. There’s also some creamy malt
under all the smoke and some fresh lemon citrus with a wee touch of young oak.
The smoke builds in intensity over time.
FINISH: Descend into a finish that collapses in on
itself with enormous, heavy smoke, before returning to earthy notes of roasted
coffee and smoked heather.
OVERALL: This new Ardbeg is not for the faint-hearted
and is a big and bold whisky. This is only to be expected from the pre-release
hype and for something pitched as the distillery's peatiest and smokiest
release ever. It is certainly the most intense Ardbeg that one can remember
sampling. But is it any good? In a word - yes.
Hypernova shows Ardbeg in a slightly different light
and hopefully, the brand will release something like this to a wider audience
in the future. It shows that you can have super powerful peat smoke but in an
interesting and balanced way, and is a definite step up from the regular
bottlings.
Given the marketing of the whisky, you almost expect it
to blow you away but in fact, it develops over time. At first, it seems only a
wee bit smokier than standard Ardbeg expressions but with each subsequent sip, it grows. By the time you’ve reached the end of the glass, you’ll be wondering
if you’ll ever taste anything but smoke, for the rest of your days. Maybe I
could accuse the whisky of lacking complexity? There certainly isn’t a great
deal of cask interaction. Indeed, the whisky feels young but I’d argue that’s
kind of the point. What do people want from the Smokiest Ardbeg Ever, if not
lots of smoke? Personally, I’m really enjoying it – perhaps a little too much.
Given the price, I’d prefer to savour my bottle for a long time, if I can.
PRICE: It would be ridiculous to try to claim that it
offers value for money. Sure, the production costs are higher than normal but
£185 will never not be a lot of money for a young single malt. That said, I
knew what I was getting into, so no complaints from me. I tasted it first and
still wanted a bottle. Will obviously not be for everyone at the price,
however. Good luck.
Ardbeg Supernova 2019: 100 ppm; 53.8% ABV only to be overtaken in 2022 by the Ardbeg Hypernova on Ardbeg Day at Feis Ile, 04 June 2022. Each Supernova is also examined there.
The distillery notes state: This limited edition bottling, will change your sensory perceptions of what whisky can be. A heavily peated Ardbeg of stellar proportions, this dram is an abduction of the senses. Enter into realms of sweet treacle toffee, navigate thick clouds of aniseed, menthol and soot, before finally re-emerging through a dense nebular of peat and smoke. Whisky will never be the same again.
Vital Stats: This single malt whisky matured in ex-bourbon barrels is 100% malted barley. Released October 2019; Limited release; Non-chill-filtered at 53.8% ABV; no age statement; 750 ml.
Appearance: Pale bronze
Nose: It’s a full-body peat that wafts into your nose. The smell is quite voluptuous and intense, yet pleasant. There is no “knock your socks off” smoky peat smell nor is it acrid. For a scotch, the smell seems very balanced between peat and sweetness which seems weird for the being the peatiest whisky brand.
Palate: The flavour of this single
malt scotch is very buttery and spicy with a smoky finish. It’s very smooth
going down. For possibly being one of the peatiest whiskies in the world this
is one of the smoothest ever encountered.
With Ardbeg Supernova every sip is a journey, from the nose to the lips to the back of the throat the flavour changes. The long-lasting flavours smoulder in your mouth and the aftertaste shines with a eucalyptus afterglow. A small sip gives a strong flavour. If you are a peated Scotch fan and you’ve never had this one, it’s a must for sure. The Hypernova may surpass it, but till then, Supernova it is.
The label upfront on the Hypernova gives us standard but mandated data. The 750 ml bit shows that this bottle is heading into the USA. Then the trademark Ardbeg dramatic para:
Propel your palate at full force towards the smokiest dram ever to mature into existence at Ardbeg. Discover fabric-tearingly intense notes of tar, creosote and soot. Venture further into the glass and explore ethereal whispers of aniseed, smoke and dark chocolate.
The rear label also reveals a lot. The phenol content is very high at more than 101 ppm. "Possibly the smokiest dram in the world (this one at least), Hypernova possesses a malty magnitude never before experienced. This is a brutally smoky dram that radiates flavour in every direction. Undoubtedly Ardbeg's smokiest spirit, HN22 is a cataclysmic event for the Distillery. It's big, it's intense and it's pulling palates into a whole new dimension...
Ardbeg Corryvreckan: NAS 57.1% ABV
As a replacement for the much-loved 1990 Airigh nam Beist, Ardbeg Corryvreckan had some pretty big shoes to fill, but the good news is that this is a belter, winning World's Best Single Malt Whisky at the World Whisky Awards 2010 and Best No Age Statement Scotch from Jim Murray.
Corryvreckan is created from a mixture of “French Oak”
casks which, rumour has it, includes some Burgundy wine casks and is named after
the second largest whirlpool in the world (located north of Jura which is north
of Islay). It’s a powerful and brutish whisky with subtle notes and undertones
that move and shift like the undercurrent that surrounds its namesake.
Bottled at a pounding 57.1% ABV, this dense dram brings
a lot of multilayered facets with it and like most whiskies bottled above 45%, it benefits from a bit of water to help unlock the true potential it holds.
Just a light splash will get this whisky churning, starting a chain reaction
that opens the whisky and allows notes that were previously hidden deep to
float to the surface. A fine dram indeed.
Distiller: Ardbeg Age: NAS ABV: 57.1%
Cask Strength
Non-Chill Filtered
Natural Colour
EYE: Dark amber
NOSE: Peat and a sherry raisiny sweetness move out
first and trailing behind is a complex aroma of sweet and savoury notes like
vanilla frosting, leather, baklava, smoked meat, honey Teddy Grahams and mild
dark fruit. Water kicks up some cumin like spice and dark sweets.
PALATE: Peat and a tarry sticky sweetness slide across
leaving notes of raisins, sherry, dates and figs sprinkled with hints of
vanilla, leather, spice and an odd note I can’t quite place. It’s not a bad
note in any way and adds a nice dimension to it, I just can’t fully describe it
as anything more than a dark earthyish note. Water kicks up the spice a bit
more along with a dark honey note and makes the overall flavour come across as richer.
FINISH: A long slow fade of peat, dark fruit, leather,
cinnamon, mint and a light touch of woodiness.
BALANCE, BODY & FEEL: Spot on balance, round smooth
body and a thick slick heavy texture that is so easy to drink you forget it’s 100
proof/57.1% ABV.
OVERALL: Ardbeg Corryvreckan is awesome. Complex overall but nothing to sneeze at either. That dense rich dark aroma is pleasant from the first sniff to the last as is the complex and dark flavour that shifts and moves across the
palate. This whisky is an experience and one I recommend whisky lovers have!
The Ardbeg Uigeadail is an absolutely stunning whisky, and following the demise of Airigh nam Beist, this, along with the Corryvreckan, probably represent the best values in the core range. I will leave it out of this article because it is a 54.2% ABV expression.
2. BRUICHLADDICH
Bruichladdich is a bit unique in that there is no prescribed recipe for each release, no single way they have to make any given
label. Instead, they distil, age and blend to make the best whisky they can
from any given vintage or age range and their best result gets put out. A,
slightly, inconsistent profile that’s consistently good.
The Bruichladdich 10-Year Port Charlotte Single Malt
Scotch Whisky is very close to the best, if not the best heavily peated whisky.
A 2022 San Francisco World Spirits Double Gold Medal Winner, this Port
Charlotte 10-year-old has been conceived, distilled, matured and bottled on
Islay alone. Bruichladdich is a young team with deep-rooted values, and an
ambition to make the ultimate “Islay” Islay whisky.
Port Charlotte whisky gets its name from the village of
Port Charlotte, a white-walled and windswept sort of place just a couple of km
down the road from Bruichladdich. like all of Bruichladdich’s whiskies, without
colouring or chill filtration. A focus on island-grown barley and barley
provenance, on-island warehouses, and environmental sustainability remains an
unconventionally central component of Bruichladdich’s operations.
After many limited releases, Bruichladdich finally has
a permanent age-statement expression of Port Charlotte, with a satisfying
number of years under its belt. Distilled from Scottish-grown barley, it is
matured predominantly in first-fill American oak casks, along with second-fill
American and second-fill French wine casks. It is peated to 40ppm, in line with
other Islay heavy-hitters, but the peat is never a blunt instrument, retaining
sufficient restraint to allow other characteristics—maritime notes, the
sweetness of caramel, coconut, and orchard fruits—to shine through.
Tasting Notes: Port Charlotte 10-Year-Old
Vital Stats: 10 years old. 100% malted barley. Cask: 1st
Fill ex-Bourbon (65%), 2nd Fill ex-Bourbon (10%), 2nd Fill ex-French Wine (25%),
50% ABV. Bottled without chill filtration or colouring.
Eye: Very pale gold
Nose: Balanced and harmonious, with bright tangerine,
cereal grains, and a kind of Madeira-like nuttiness. A combination of almond,
allspice and lime is vaguely reminiscent of tiki drinks. Atop it all floats a
somewhat neutral smoke that reads more like a wood fire than the antiseptic,
industrial character of some other Islay malts.
Palate: Dry, dense, and woodsy, with plenty of deep,
nutty caramelized flavours. I get very dark caramel, and chocolate as well as a
smouldering, Incense-y kind of smoke as well as a savoury meatiness. A splash of
water releases a plume of warm campfire smoke, burnt barley sugar, salted
lemons, peppercorns, and a bitter herbal tone like chamomile or yarrow.
Finish: Long, hay-like malt, salted butter, oat cookies
and smoke.
Balance, Body and Feel: Great balance, medium to full
body, warm lightly oiled feel.
Overall:
Aroma is an oily rich delivery of balanced, sweet, rustic and coastal notes that starts out warm and turns a tad sharp as the coastal notes grow and evens out with the sweet BBQ smoke – it’s like a coastal bonfire BBQ party; Palate carries the same oily rich delivery of notes holding a nice balance of fruity, coastal and homey rustic notes; Finish is warm and carries the most earthiness to it but doesn’t lack any coastal or sweet notes. This is a sit-by-the-fire-and-enjoy-the-moment whisky, it’s something to slow down and enjoy.
It’s not aggressive, it’s not weak, it’s just well-balanced and damn good. It may shift and change a bit from one release to the
next, but it’s always a solid, tasty, Islay Scotch that covers an array of
notes to cover an array of preferences. From fruity to coastal, Port Charlotte
10 Years is simply yet magnificently pleasant.
THE OCTOMORES
In the world of Scotch whisky, how smoky is too smoky? Apparently, Scotch distillery Bruichladdich has not reached the upper threshold yet, as proven by the annual release of the extremely, heavily peated Octomore series. With the launch of every edition, they show that, once again, there’s a lot of nuance behind the smoke.
The Islay distillery’s core expression, The Classic
Laddie, is unpeated and has nary a whiff of smoke on the palate. The Port
Charlotte series starts to get pretty smoky, but Octomore is where the fire
really erupts. This series of whiskies is an exercise in not just peat, but the
effects of barrel maturation, barley provenance and terroir on the flavour of a
whisky. And it’s also proof that a single malt Scotch doesn’t have to be aged
for at least a decade to obtain a complexity of flavour. The head distiller pushes
this liquid to its very limits to make it a pleasure and a welcome challenge year
after year. This series is made up of a selection of incredible single malts with real complexity and depth of flavour. Each one has its own distinct character
while still staying true to the Octomore DNA, balancing intense peat smoke with
its elegant signature style.
That said, it is not possible, nor is it tried at
Bruichladdich to maintain consistency re the series. There are too many
variables from grain to PPM to copy any one of the lot. Octomore 13.1 is sort
of the control whisky here, as is the case each year with the first whisky in
the series. It was distilled in 2016 from 100 per cent Scottish Concerto barley
and matured in first-fill bourbon barrels for five years and then re-casked in
2021 into fresh first-fill barrels to add a burst of toffee, coconut and
vanilla flavours, according to the tasting notes. The peat level is a whopping
137.3 ppm, which translates to super-duper smoky for the uninitiated. This
whisky was bottled at 59.2 per cent ABV and is non-chill filtered with natural
colour, as is all the whisky at Bruichladdich.
Octomore 13.2 shares the vintage and barley type with
13.1, but differs in its maturation. This whisky spent its entire five-year ageing
period in first-fill Oloroso sherry casks from Spain, offering a counterpoint
to its sister whisky in flavour and style. The peat level is the same
astronomical number, and it’s bottled at a slightly lower 58.3 per cent ABV with
notes of nut, orange, dried fruit and a hint of “maritime tang.”
Octomore 13.3 is a study in Islay terroir, having been
distilled from 100 per cent Concerto barley grown on the Octomore Farm near the
distillery. This too was distilled in 2016 but was matured in a combination of
first-fill American whiskey barrels and second-fill French oak casks for five
years. The peat level is a bit less aggressive here at 129.3 ppm, and it’s
bottled at a higher 61.1 per cent ABV with notes of vanilla, brown sugar and
green fruit.
The new Octomore series are expensive, ranging in price
from $219.99 to $299.99. Make no mistake, these are intensely smoky single
malts that will put hair on the soles of your feet, but it’s not just a
marketing ploy—there is a range of nuance of flavours here that come into play
as you sip.
The Islay distillery’s Octomore Masterclass 08.3
edition contained barley peated to a phenol level of 309ppm (parts per
million). Until then the peatiest whisky on record was Octomore 06.3, released
in 2015 and containing barley peated to 258ppm. The new Octomore Masterclass
08.3 contains whisky distilled in 2011 from barley harvested by the nearby
Octomore Farm the previous autumn.
Bruichladdich said drying the Islay barley with peat
smoke during the malting process produced ‘unprecedented’ results.‘Using HPLC
(high-performance liquid chromatography), the readings came back at 309.1ppm,’
the distillery noted. ‘The nature and variety of Octomore depend on far more
than simply numbers, but these were staggering. Off the scale.’
A whisky’s ppm usually refers to the number of phenols
imparted onto the barley during the drying stage of the malting process, rather
than being a direct indication of the ‘smokiness’ of the whisky itself. The ppm
level can vary depending on whether a colorimetric reading or one from HLPC is
taken, the latter producing higher figures.
However, Bruichladdich claimed that Octomore 08.3 is
the peatiest malt yet made at the distillery. A spokesperson said: ‘We believe
it to be the peatiest Scotch ever produced, but then we are not some
omnipotent, all-knowing Yoda.’ Following distillation, the heavily peated
spirit was matured in a combination of ex-Bourbon casks, and ex-wine casks made
from European oak, for five years.
The expression is the only release in the new
Masterclass series not bottled as an eight-year-old.
The four whiskies comprising the Octomore Masterclass
Eight series are:
Octomore
Masterclass 08.1
Strength:
59.3% ABV
Distilled:
2008; bottled as an eight-year-old
Phenol
level: 167ppm
Cask:
First-fill American oak barrels
Availability:
42,000 bottles; global release September 2017
Price: £120
Octomore
Masterclass 08.2
Strength:
58.4% abv
Distilled:
2008; bottled as an eight-year-old
Phenol
level: 167ppm
Cask:
Six years in refill ex-Sauternes, French Mourvèdre and Austrian sweet wine
casks. The casks are vatted and finished in first-fill Italian ex-Amarone casks
for two years
Availability:
36,000 bottles; global travel retail release in 2017 September
Price:
£125
Octomore
Masterclass 08.3
Strength: 61.2% abv
Distilled:
2011; bottled as a five-year-old
Phenol
level: 309.1ppm
Cask: 56% ex-Bourbon American oak; 44% ex-Pauillac, Ventoux, Rhône and Burgundy
European oak casks
Availability: 18,000 bottles; global release in September 2017
Price:
£165
Octomore
Masterclass 08.4
Strength: 58.7% abv
Distilled:
2009; bottled as an eight-year-old
Phenol
level: 170ppm
Cask:
20% virgin oak casks; 80% first-fill American oak casks, finished in
second-fill virgin oak from France.
Availability:
12,000 bottles; global release in 2018
Price:
£150
3. LAGAVULIN
What actually happened was that Lagavulin became a
runaway success, to the extent that it had to be put on allocation. That its
growth coincided with a period where the mature stock was limited (the bad old days
of the 80s and early 90s) didn’t help. Today, it runs nonstop, 24/7 in distillery terminology,
just to try and keep up with ever-growing global demand. The world
has fallen in love with smoke and Lagavulin’s complex mix of seashore and moor,
pipe smoke, Lapsang Souchong, bog myrtle and rich dark fruits is a destination
for many.
Though fermentation times have been cut, introducing a
cereal note to the new make, the second distillation remains extremely long,
maximising reflux. Ageing is predominantly in refill casks, but in recent years
some ex-Sherry casks have appeared as part of a controlled programme of small
batch releases, while a small amount of a higher strength 12-year-old is
released annually for the real peat heads.
The Offerman Series: In
2019 the Lagavulin 11yo Offerman Edition was released with the direct involvement
of the actor and single malt enthusiast, Nick Offerman. This 11-year-old Single
Malt has matured in a mixture of refill and rejuvenated Bourbon casks,
before being bottled at 46% ABV.
“I have travelled the world and sampled many attempts at pleasing nectars, but it is solely this distillation of Islay; a tiny charismatic Scottish isle, that has claimed my palate…this 11-year Lagavulin is like a top-shelf brass and…blowing smoky jazz and marching straight down your gullet.” Nick Offerman
The whisky is said to carry the signature Lagavulin peatiness but with extra spices and notes of dried fruit to carry the smoke. It offers a full-on tingle from the split second it hits your lips, with pronounced fresh berry character combined with spiciness. Elevated top notes provide a more direct flavour journey than other Lagavulin expressions. It was originally released for around £65 per bottle but now can only be found for £200 or more.
Nose: Mild overall, with light prickle. The top notes are unusually ashy
for Lagavulin, but familiar hints of linseed oil soon reassure. Gradually
fruity notes of hard candy (boiled sweets) emerge, as does a clean, fresh
suggestion of the sea, like sniffing the sea air in a fishing harbour. With
water, the aromas reduce and the more pungent, smoky notes come slightly
forward.
Palate: At natural strength, soft and smooth in texture with a big taste
that is sweeter than expected. Smoky too, with a little salt. A clean, fresh
Lagavulin that is very lightly drying mid-palate. The sweetness is more
prominent with water when the tastes are reduced yet broadly unchanged.
Finish: Long and very smoky, as the smokiness comes through much more
strongly. Lightly drying, with an appetising salty aftertaste. With water,
sweeter, though the smokiness still reasserts itself in the aftertaste.
The second bottling from this unique partnership was released in 2021
and aged in Guinness casks. For all the wisdom Nick Offerman carries, he has
one man to thank: his dad, Ric. They
invite you to pour a dram of the newest release from Nick Offerman and
Lagavulin Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky – Lagavulin Offerman Edition:
Guinness Cask Finish. This limited-edition 11 Year Old Lagavulin aged for four
months in former Guinness Beer casks from the Open Gate Brewery in Maryland is
a true father-son creation.
Good things come in threes and for Nick Offerman, the rule of thirds is resoundingly true as he introduced his third Lagavulin Single Malt Scotch Whisky, Charred Oak Cask Aged 11 Years, released in October 2022. An aficionado of all things wood, steak and scotch, Nick Offerman merged these three passions within his smokiest creation yet, a whisky aged in American and European oak casks that are shaved down then heavily re-charred, posing the perfect pairing for well-barked, medium-rare steak.
Marking the longtime collaborators’ 48th video spot together, Offerman
and Lagavulin debuted this one-of-a-kind whisky in a thrilling, action-packed
film that reveals Offerman embarking on his most dangerous Tale of Whisky to
date: Nick Offerman’s Smokiest Adventure Yet: Lagavulin Offerman Edition:
Charred Oak Cask. For those that dare to taste this coveted Single Malt, the
bottle has an SRP of US$79.99 and was available for purchase for a limited time
only at select U.S. liquor retailers and at select retailers globally in
Canada, Australia, Great Britain, China and The Netherlands.
The third Offerman Edition—the “three-peat”—uses American red wine and
European oak casks that have been shaved down before being heavily re-charred.
Deviating from the previous Offerman Editions, the spirit was fully matured for
at least eleven years in these barrels—versus a shorter-term cask finishing.
The result is Offerman’s smokiest whisky to date, 46% ABV. And its devout
carnivore creator recommends pairing a dram with a medium rare steak.
The Lagavulin 12 YO Special Cask Strength Release:
Eye: Lustrous pale straw-gold.
Body: Medium.
Nose: Mild, drying and soon, wonderfully aromatic; clean, fresh and
maritime, with top notes of sea air and Himalayan salt, supported by fragrant
smoke-dried Lapsang Souchong tea, mineral salts and light cleansing salve.
Beneath these lie drier notes of cocoa powder and dried seaweed, with a squeeze
of lemon zest, this salty sweetness imbued with wood smoke from a distant
bonfire on the shore.
Palate: The texture is smooth and attractively oily; the taste is sweet to
start then soon growling with intense lemon acidity, with a sprinkling of sea salt and persistent char talking each sip. The overall salty-sweet taste is
rounded, softened and sweetened by a drop of water.
Finish: Long, with great waves of smoke, and roaring with chilli pepper
warmth. Even better with a dash of water. Smoke lasts wonderfully in the
aftertaste.
The Lagavulin 8 YO Special Release:
This is an interesting move by a distillery, to put out something that’s younger than its flagship whisky (Lagavulin 16) to celebrate the milestone. OK, the ABV is 5 points higher, but then, most distilleries put out something older or pull from the archives to create something unique and rare, so what was the reasoning for putting something out that’s 1/2 the age of the standard Lag?
According to Dr Nick Morgan, Diageo Director of Whisky Outreach, it was done because they “wanted the anniversary to be something that could be celebrated by as many people as possible”. In our current age-statement-obsessed culture it’s a bold move by the distillery.
Distiller: Lagavulin
Mashbill: 100% Malted barley
Cask: Mostly ex-Bourbon casks
Age: 8 years
ABV: 48%
Non-Chill Filtered | Natural Colour
Eye: Light yellow, almost clear
Nose: A pungent nose missile straight to the olfactory centers of the brain. BOOM! Piercing peat with unmistakable Lagavulin character. A blossom of salted caramel, honeysuckle, fresh hay, and refined, clarified, condensed ocean-flecked peat. Be careful with the nose tickle – it is sharp much deeper than the rim of the glass. Pears and apples bowl out of the glass followed by notes of cinnamon, honey, peat and vanilla rich spirity malt with a light bit of bubblegum. I’ve never encountered bubblegum in any Lagavulin I’ve had, but that’s the thing about young whisky; it reveals characteristics that might get covered up the older it gets.
Palate: Orchard fruit and cinnamon again lead the pack followed by notes of peat, vanilla, malt, saline, white pepper and a bit of bubblegum. I’m fascinated by this bubblegum note. I usually get a cloying bubblegum note with French Oak, but everything I’ve read about the Lagavulin 8 says it’s mostly ex-bourbon casks. So interesting.
Finish: Long peaty road with twists of vanilla, malt, orchard fruit and bubblegum.
Balance, Body & Feel: Decent balance, thin body and a light feel.
With Water: A coupla drops of water actually amplify the nose tickle! There might be an additional orange-peel note on the nose, but it is fleeting. On the tongue there is a little more vanilla sweetness, although the texture is thinner. The finish does pick up a perfume high-note, jasmine maybe. Try both without and then with water.
Overall: Lagavulin 8 Years is a fruity, vanilla laden and slightly spirited rendition of Lagavulin that’s fun to drink even if it’s not wildly complex. It’s a whisky that brings a unique character to the table and fully displays a previously unseen side of the Lagavulin distillery – In the mass market anyways. In the indie world, young Lagavulins have been around for a while, but none have been able to carry the Lagavulin name for legal reasons. The youthful peat is bracing and focussed (and not nearly as wild as some other examples of young peat). The overall effect is impressive. Still, it misses some of the 16 year’s polish and roundness. Its perfect caramel-peat balance is not perfect, nor is there enough wood to fill out the palate. That’s nitpicking, though.
Releasing this as their big anniversary bottling is a bold move by the distillery and might be a portent of things to come. As said, it’s not as rich as older whisky, but good and different, and it’s interesting to see a distillery showcasing it so prominently. I wonder how many other distilleries will follow in the Lagavulin 8 Years’ footsteps and release a younger age-stated version in a way that allows them to test the market and see how it reacts.
4. TALISKER
Talisker distillery is an Island single malt Scotch
whisky distillery based in Carbost, Scotland on the Isle of Skye. The
distillery is operated by Diageo and was marketed as part of their Classic
Malts series. The brand is sold as a premium whisky. The malted barley used in
production comes from Muir of Ord. Talisker now has an annual output of three
and a half million litres of spirit.
Talisker was the first Single Malt Scotch Whisky made
by the sea on the shores of the Isle of Skye, one of the most remote, rugged,
yet beautiful landscapes in Scotland. Torabhaig has just established itself
there. Few whiskies tell the story of their origin better than Talisker. Its
smell and taste instantly connect the drinker with the rugged environment –
like a warm welcome from a wild sea. It’s a powerhouse; challenging but adored;
once discovered rarely left.
In 1825, Hugh MacAskill of Eigg acquired Talisker House
and the north end of the Minginish peninsula on the rugged, beautiful Isle of
Skye Five years later, he and his brother had built what was to become one of
the world’s most popular distilleries on the shore of Loch Harport. In fact, by
as early as 1898, Talisker was one of the best selling malt whiskies in the UK.
Through fire, war and financial crises, this northern outpost – then Skye’s
only distillery – has remained strong: producing consistently fine whiskies
which, once tried, are rarely forgotten. Sitting amongst the Inner Hebridean
Scottish Isles, Skye is rugged, windswept, a place of extremes. The first
whisky on Skye, Talisker captures the spirit of its island home perfectly.
Bursting with the famous smokiness, the surprising subtle notes of black
pepper, and yet rounded with a smooth finish, Talisker is a delicious
contradiction.
Triple distillation stopped in Talisker distillery in 1928. It has been a
mystery ever since as to what style was made, but Diageo’s boffins believe it
could explain the unusual configuration of the stills – two wash stills and
three spirit. This results in a highly individual new make which mixes smoke,
fruit, sulphur, salt and pepper. The standard malt is medium-peated, the worts
clear and the fermentation long. Talisker is now one of Diageo’s most important
single malt brands.
The wash stills are very tall with an exaggerated
U-shaped bend in the lyne arm with a purifier pipe at its lowest point. This
refluxes any heavy elements back into the body of the still to be redistilled. There
is little copper contact which provides the sulphury notes in the new make, and
could give the signature pepperiness in the mature spirit. The purifier pipe
adds oiliness, while the reflux helps to refine the fruity elements created
during fermentation. In contrast to most distilleries where the spirit stills
are the workhorses, at Talisker the second distillation takes place in small
plain stills, again with worm tubs. This adds mid-palate weight. Maturation is
in refill and rejuvenated casks with ex-fortified wine casks being used for the
occasional special releases.
As legend has it, when the tides at Talisker Bay flowed with an unusual force, a luminous creature was drawn from the blackest depths, flooding the deep-sea darkness with its captivating glow. This powerful luminescence was carried on storm-tossed currents to the Talisker distillery, illuminating its new-make spirit. In that spirit too, the vivid luminosity shone, its classic smokiness fading before a radiant tide of spice-bright sweetness rarely seen.
Talisker 11 YO Special Edition: 55.1% ABV 2022.
The luminous octopus-like sea creature is captured on the label of the Talisker 11 YO and on the tube it is packed in.
Light shines in every element here. Amid a deep golden glow, salty, smoky hints of a beach bonfire give the mild nose a maritime feel. First fill ex-bourbon casks gift layers of luminous flavour, the texture smoothly oily, the taste sweet and smoky-spicy, salty and fruity, like an orchard in sea mist. Peaty power appears in the chilli-spiced catch of the long finish. This is a legendary Talisker, of ethereal beauty.
Elemental yet also classic in character: maritime malty
smokiness merges smoothly with a tide of spice-bright sweetness to form a
salt-laced monster that is truly “Made by the Sea”. First-fill ex-bourbon casks
gift layers of flavour; a luminous spiced sweetness bathes storm-tossed notes
of smoke and sea in its irresistible glow. Best served neat, the 55.1% ABV Talisker
11 YO is a unique gift that stands out within the Special Releases collection,
and is perfect for get-togethers with friends or family.
Eye: Deep, glowing gold
Body: Medium
Nose: Maritime in feel, with light spice-prickle, the
first impression suggests a beach bonfire of dry seaweed, then deep-seated
notes of maritime saltiness and marine engines take over, on a base of drying
fresh linen. Smoked butter and roasted apples emerge, sprinkled with freshly
cracked black pepper. All these scents hold together well at reduced strength.
Palate: Intense concentrated apple sweetness becomes
singed and mingles with wood smoke. Tarry notes and coiled ropes sit at the
core, with an underlying layer of char. Smoothly oily in texture, while the
taste is gloriously sweet throughout and smoky-spicy, with a distinct fruity
hint, all of which evokes an orchard seen through smoke and sea mist. A fine
salty balance in the middle leads the spiciness into a powerful chilli pepper
catch as you swallow. With time, the sweet fruitiness and saltiness come into
their own.
Finish: Long, sustained and lightly smoky, with
lingering warming spice.
Talisker 15 2019 Special Release
The Talisker 15 is the first-ever release of Talisker as a 15-year-old. The separate sensations all swirl around your nose and mouth, offering a tasting experience that is ever in motion. Cask strength Talisker is a prized possession. Some of the absolute best whiskies to be ever tasted have been older cask strength bottlings from the Isle of Skye distillery. After the success of the 2018 special release, Diageo once again included a cask-strength Talisker in their 2019 special release lineup, this time a 15-year-old version. Smokier than the 18, but more perfumed and less balanced, it develops in its own way. The maritime nature of the whisky is reflected by its label, which features images of the briny depths. The release was limited to 42222 bottles.
According to the label, this 15-year-old single malt
was matured exclusively in “freshly charred American oak hogheads” (probably
ex-bourbon, although there’s no mention of that). The label does not mention
whether or not this whisky is non-chill-filtered or natural colour, but
thankfully it doesn’t reek of either of those monstrosities. So that’s a good
start to one of my favourites this year.
Talisker 15 Review
Type:
Single Malt Scotch
Region: Highlands (Islands)
Age: 15 years
ABV: 57.2%
Nose : Big and powerful, typical Talisker nose, with an added blast of sweetness. Treacle-toffee notes hide at the back, with hints of liquorice and creosote. Splintered fence notes build, restrained by stewed apple and tarte tatin. Soft spice develops along with fruity jelly. Fields of damp ferns, sea-splashed rocks and smoky dark sugar. Reminiscent of walking along the boardwalk on the shore, with notes of vanilla fudge, caramel popcorn, salt water taffy, bubble gum, salty sea breeze, and sea-washed wood. Chocolate mint candies. Black pepper. A hint of peat. Cherry syrup. Wonderful.
Palate: Earthy and mulchy to start – piles of damp autumn
leaves. Spicy and sweet. Loads of salt and pepper (in a good way). Moderately
oily texture. Complex, with a wide range of flavours—I find different notes
every time I taste this whisky. One sip it’s key lime pie. The next is cherry
cordial. Then sweet vanilla cream and light caramel sauce. Brown sugar, white
chocolate, dried mango, banana liqueur… so much going on. The peat smoke is a
bit more evident than in most Talisker expressions, although it’s not a peat
monster. Just a wonderful balance of flavours.
Finish: Long and spicy. More salt and pepper. A bit
more peat smoke. Rich fruit and buttery pastry. Hints of mint and earthiness
linger. Lemon peel. Lime juice. A spicy sort of mint… almost like rye whiskey.
A bit floral. Roasted oak. Simple syrup.
Overall: Fantastic. Does exactly what it says on the
tin – it’s a Talisker, and it’s deeper and spicier than usual. It may have lost
its sea-salt and black-pepper trademark character, but it’s still got a touch
of shoreline in with a whack of tasty darkness. Other than a few 25-year and
older cask-strength Talisker expressions (which are some of the best bottles of
whisky I’ve ever tasted), this is the best whisky from the Isle of Skye that
I’ve had. And at a reasonable price for the quality (around £110, not exactly
cheap, but compared to other similar whiskies, it’s really quite reasonable)!
If only this was a core release and readily available.
5. KILKERRAN HEAVILY PEATED
Glengyle History: The Glengyle distillery—makers of
Kilkerran single malt—is one of the darlings of the whisky world. Kilkerran 12-Year-Old is one of the most interesting and tasty 12-year-old whiskies on the
planet; Kilkerran 8-Year-Old Cask Strength is also quite good (although it does
vary by batch), and a number of other individual releases have been well
received and are highly sought after. The spirit itself is Campbeltown to the
core, and yet is distinctly different from its sister distillery, Springbank.
It has loads of unique character, and the distillery always presents its
whisky the right way (non-chill-filtered, natural colour, etc.). There’s so
much to like about what Glengyle/Kilkerran is doing.
The Mitchell family was the dominant force in
Campbeltown’s distilling community in the 19th century. By 1872, John and his
son Alexander were running Springbank; John’s brothers Hugh, William and
Archibald had founded Riechlachan, situated next door, while Archibald’s son,
William, had just started his own distillery, Glengyle, which was next door
again. He sold in 1919 to the short-lived, R&B-backed, consortium of
Campbeltown distillers: West Highland Malt Distilleries [Ardlussa, Dalintober,
Glen Nevis, Glen Scotia, Kinloch] but the venture failed and, in 1925, it was
one of many Campbeltown plants to close down.
Perhaps surprisingly, there was still remaining stock
in the 1940s when the distillery and the Glengyle brand name were bought by
blenders Bloch Bros which had also bought Scotia (later renamed Glen Scotia) in
Campbeltown and Scapa distillery in Orkney. There were plans mooted to reopen
but they came to nothing and the plant became a rifle range, and feed store.
In 2000, however, J&A Mitchell [Springbank] bought
the site and four years later Glengyle reopened. Because the Glengyle trademark had passed to Bloch Bros (and subsequent owners of Glen Scotia) the brand is called Kilkerran – from Gaelic ‘Ceann Loch Cille Chiarain’ which is the name of the original settlement where Saint Kerran had his religious cell and the original name of Campbeltown. It would be unusual for the old Campbeltown distilleries to be called after a Glen, a custom more usually associated with the Speyside region. The first release was in 2007 and has been followed by the annual
‘Works in Progress’. Their first 12-year-old was released in 2016. Lightly
peated and non-chill-filtered, the 12-year-old is matured 70% in ex-Bourbon
casks and 30% in ex-Sherry casks. The result is a far cry from the traditional
heavy malt distilled at Glengyle during the Victorian era.
Normal Kilkerran distillate is only lightly peated. It often comes across as a less peated sibling to typical Springbank malt. But much like Springbank produces a heavily peated style of malt in Longrow, Kilkerran has also been making a heavy peat style for a few years now in order to satisfy the ever-growing demand for a good peat monster. And a peat monster it is, with Kilkerran’s heavily peated malt coming in at a whopping 84 ppm (a higher ppm than most Islay single malts).
 |
| BATCHES 1 TO 5 |
Before Kilkerran landed on the beginning of its core
range, previews of the whisky were regularly released as it first matured in
the form of the Kilkerran “work in progress” series. These releases were quite
popular a few years back before the 12-year-old became available. In the same
vein, Kilkerran is releasing very young, cask-strength “peat in progress”
expressions of their heavily peated malt. An exciting idea for those who want
to follow the heavily peated Kilkerran from its infancy until it reaches its
target maturation. How many of these releases will we see before there is a
core range (hopefully age-stated) version? Who knows, but they’re already up to
batch 7. Let’s see how a bottle of batch 1 tastes.
Kilkerran Heavily Peated Review (Batch 1)
Type:
Single Malt Scotch
Region:
Campbeltown
Age:
NAS
ABV:
59.3%
Chill-filtration: No
Natural
colour
Bottles:
9,000
Eye: Heavy Gold
Nose: Powerful… nose burningly powerful. Quite a tingly
sensation. Plenty of peat smoke. Ash. Lemon peel and lime. Earthy. Mint.
Moonshine. Even with water added, the potent, young ethanol and smoke raise
the hair in your nose. If you’re suffering from allergies or a stuffy nose,
this stuff will clear you right up!
Palate: A real beast without water, quite potent. It
requires a good bit of water just to be drinkable. With water, some interesting
(although young) notes emerge. Lots of citrus. Lemon especially, but also
orange and lime. Plenty of earthy, smoky peat, similar in style to Longrow
(which makes sense… same region, same owners). Yeasty. Vanilla pudding. Burnt
caramel. Cinnamon spice. Some nutmeg too. New make spirit. The youth is
obvious, but the quality of the spirit is also evident. This is well-made
whisky, but… it’s too young.
The texture is nice and oily, which is the best part of
this dram, but it’s just not enough to overcome the extreme youthfulness, which
borders on tasting like peated moonshine.
Finish: Medium in length. Lots of cinnamon and ethanol.
A bit of menthol. The peat smoke is still present, but less so.
Overall: There’s a lot of promise in this whisky, but it’s just way too immature and rough around the edges. I enjoy young whisky in
many instances, but not when it’s this immature. Some interesting notes are
found here and there certainly, but the new make spirit notes ultimately overwhelm
the entirety of the dram. Of course, this is not really meant to be a finished
work just yet—it’s called “peat in progress” for a reason, after all. Still, I
would like to see a little more maturity from a whisky that’s being sold
commercially at a not-insignificant price. It’s an interesting experience, but
in the end, not a terribly fulfilling one.
This
particular release, which is probably aged for only a little over three years,
is a disappointment. It’s fun and educational to taste young whisky like this,
but when I buy a bottle of single malt, I want more than just fun and
learning—I want a whisky that tastes like whisky more than moonshine. Even at a
still young age of around eight years or so, I imagine this heavy peat
distillate will be quite good.
Buying Advice: If you’re a big fan of Kilkerran and
don’t mind a very young-tasting whisky, then by all means go for it. At least
it’s not an outrageously expensive bottle (although at around $90, it’s also
not cheap). Just understand what you’re getting into—this is not a finished
product. It’s a preview. I recommend seeking a sample, rather than buying a bottle, for most people.
Kilkerran Heavily Peated Review (Batch 7)
Type:
Single Malt Scotch
Region:
Campbeltown
Age: NAS
Non-chill-filtered
Natural
colour
|
Distillery |
Glengyle Kilkerran Series |
|
Description |
Heavily Peated Batch #7 |
|
Range |
Peat in Progress |
|
Alcohol ABV |
59.1 % |
|
Cask Strength |
Yes |
|
Cask Wood Type |
Bourbon
& Sherry Oak |
|
Single Cask |
No |
|
Packaging |
Original
Box |
|
Bottler |
Distillery |
|
Country of Origin |
Scotland |
|
Stopper |
Cork |
|
Bottle Type |
Standard |
|
Bottle Size |
70cl |
|
Neck Level |
Full |
This young, cask-strength Kilkerran is the seventh (and most recent) release of a much-loved (and long-awaited) whisky. Released on Valentine’s Day 2022, it hit the shelves a few days after the sixth release, all in sherry, in a rather unusual double treat for this bottling born in 2017. Matured all in ex-Port casks, as always cask strength and unadulterated, the list price was €70.
Tasting Notes
Palate: On the palate, it’s quite
full-bodied, an elusive menthol note opens up a profile suspended between sweet
and bitter, where red fruit jam intertwines with liquorice, aniseed, cocoa,
baked apple and a hint of herbs, with a pinch of pepper acting as a trait
d’union. Smoke and grill are largely subdued, a tapestry of memories in the
background, while the dirtier side of leather and earth plays on the counterpoints. Remarkably viscous, integrated on the palate, but a hint of powdered sugar coming through to remind you that this isn't all that old.
Finish: Not very long with vegetal and
vinous impressions, chocolate, red fruits, dull embers. Dry, chalky, heavy smoke, intense pepper, lingering herbs.
The risk of maturation entirely in Port
was high, and it was partly averted: the casks didn’t crush the distillate, but
there remains a certain discordance in the notes that never seem to find real
balance, with an unusual but not very incisive dram.
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