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Thursday 29 December 2022

FIVE ARDBEGS IN 2022

 2022 MARKS RELEASE OF FIVE ARDBEG EXPRESSIONS

2022 proved to be a hectic year for Ardbeg, releasing as many as five expressions.

          

February this year saw the release of the Ardbeg Fermutation which had undergone an unnaturally long fermentation period, more by accident than design. April saw the debut of the Fon Fhòid which had been buried in peat bogs for several years, before being released from Singapore on the back of an NFT, marking Ardbeg's entry into the virtual world of shadowy tokens. Fèis Ìle 2022 saw the Ardcore, distilled from roasted black malt and launched on Ardbeg Day, 22 June. Then the fourth Traigh Bhan in September, setting the stage, as it were, for October and Ardbeg’s new Smoketrails Manzanilla Travel Exclusive edition at major Airports, initially within the UK, but moving out across international borders.

ARDBEG FERMUTATION: The Ardbeg Committee Selection for February 2022 is one that honestly could not be replicated even if tried. This is the second “happy accident” with Ardbeg, but somehow that one-off whisky is found on the shelves over and over. For the Ardbeg Fermutation, a broken boiler is to blame for the longest fermentation period in the distillery’s history.

Ardbeg typically ferments its products for 72 hours. In November 2007, a dead boiler almost ruined six washbacks full of whisky. Dr. Lumsden wanted to experiment with longer fermentations and told the distillery team to open the washback lids. With these lids open, the salty Islay air graced the contents as it fermented for another three weeks.

Alcohol conversion slows down dramatically after 48 hours, but the longer a ferment goes on, the more flavour is imparted. Whether wood or steel, the washbacks also impact flavour. At Ardbeg, they are made of Oregon pine (Douglas fir), which has nuances of its own. With the Ardbeg Fermutation, no one knew what those extra three weeks would do to the whisky. A science project worth a run. Whether the extended exposure of the wash to the Islay air added flavours to the whisky or whether this is just a marketing story is up to you to decide.

The Ardbeg Fermutation is only available to The Ardbeg Committee members at this time. While this sounds exclusive, anyone interested can join The Committee. There are more than 130,000 members in over 130 countries. I too am a member of The Ardbeg Committee.

Tasting Notes:

ABV: 49.4%

Type: An Islay whisky matured in ex-bourbon casks (first and refill) for 13 years. Limited Ardbeg Committee release.

Volume & Cost: 750ml ~$195.

Colour: Pale straw

Nose: Upon first whiff, fresh mulch and herbal with menthol, sage and lovage, but there are also damp and musty notes and sweaty socks to make a stinky combination. The dram then turns lighter and more floral. Accents of baby powder and spearmint. Marzipan, a touch of lime, grilled pineapple and pears, with ash notes coming through. Macaron provides a touch of nuttiness at the end. With a little water, powerful waves of diesel oil, tar, fresh paint and anise.

Palate: Soot and black pepper touch the tongue first. A sweet follow up that turns mineral and ashy with cold smoke, along with a citrus note. The smoke is not robust and lingers in the background. Overall, the whisky is earthy. Despite the earthiness, the whisky is also fruity with oranges and charred peaches with fresh cream.

Finish: Short to medium length and maintains those mineral and ashy notes; salt, mint, tar, oak tannin & leather.

ARDBEG FON FHÒID: The idea of burying a barrel of whisky in a peat bog was conceived by Dr. Bill Lumsden, Ardbeg’s Director of Whisky Creation, and in 2014, the distillery was able to bring that idea to life. Ardbeg’s team, led by then Distillery Manager Mickey Heads, took two casks of already mature whisky aged in second-fill bourbon casks and buried them in a peat bog near the distillery. Two years and 10 months later, the casks were unearthed from the peat bog and returned to the warehouse, where they were left to mature for a few more years before being married and bottled as an NFT.

Category – Spirits, whisky, Scotch, Single Malt, 45.5% ABV
Location – Worldwide, available as an NFT edition via BlockBar.com
Price – Approximately US$3,000

The latest Ardbeg expression takes its name from 'under the turf'. Moët Hennessy has become the latest spirits brand owner to jump on the Non-Fungible Token (NFT) bandwagon, announcing the release of a limited edition from its Ardbeg single malt Scotch whisky brand.

Ardbeg Fon Fhòid may still be available exclusively on high-end wine and spirits NFT trading site BlockBar.com from 19 April. Limited to 456 units, the expression will be stored at BlockBar’s facility in Singapore until redeemed by its owners. The whisky has an SRP of 1.00 Ethereum (around US$3,000). 

The release is groundbreaking for Moët Hennessy in more ways than one, having been aged in second-fill Bourbon casks that were buried under a peat bog near the Islay distillery for two years and ten months. For the first time ever, Ardbeg burrowed their barrels in oxygen-deprived, water-rich, soggy, boggy ground, resulting in a one-of-a-kind NFT exclusive to Blockbar.

BlockBar is a platform that offers NFTs, each of which is linked to an individual physical bottle of liquor from luxury brands that is stored by BlockBar. In effect, Ardbeg has released its first NFT in the form of an unusually matured whisky!

Quite a few distilleries have taken to selling their spirits in NFT form or accompanied by NFTs (Hennessy, Dalmore, Glenfiddich, Macallan, Kinsale and Patrón). Maker’s Mark even became the official bourbon partner of an NFT collection and created a custom bottle label for it.

Bottled at 45.5% ABV, Ardbeg Fon Fhòid will be priced at 1 ETH (about $3,034 on April 18). The sale went live on the whisky NFT platform BlockBar at 10 a.m. EST on April 19. The release is limited to 456 bottles, all of which will be sold on BlockBar.

The bottles will be stored at BlockBar’s facility in Singapore until they’re redeemed, which can begin Dec. 1. Buyers can also trade their NFT within the BlockBar marketplace, store the bottle in a virtual bar or gift the NFT through the company’s new gifting platform. Each buyer will receive a digital certificate that will verify their ownership and the authenticity of the bottle.

                    

Tasting Notes

Colour: Pale Straw

Nose: Pungent, waxy and salty with a curious, but distinctive, mossy note. This is then followed by a hint of molasses or sugarcane. There is also a background musty/earthy note, like walking into a damp whisky warehouse. A splash of water releases some more herbal notes, almost like asparagus or artichoke. Next comes a waxy, oily fragrance, reminiscent of a freshly waxed jacket along with a distinctive soapy aroma.

Palate: A slightly drying mouthfeel is followed by some savoury notes, like grilled artichoke and ground pepper, along with a suggestion of rye bread. The classic Ardbeg smokiness is subdued, but always in the background, coming across as tar-coated fennel.

Ardbeg’s decision to partake in the NFT trend, however, has ruffled some feathers in a whisky community that scoffs at NFTs and cryptocurrency. Ardbeg is something of a darling in the whisky world, so seeing a distillery that is widely adored join the NFT party has spawned some annoyance.


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ARBEG ARDCORE: Limited Edition Islay Single Malt Whisky was officially released on Ardbeg Day, June 4th, 2022, during the Fèis Ìle (Islay Festival) on Islay. In 1986, locals founded the festival to celebrate the island’s unique history and heritage within the wider world of whisky. It is a ten-day event of tastings, tours, and festivities, including traditional Scottish dances (ceilidhs).

The new Ardbeg Ardcore actually went on sale on April 26th (Committee Exclusive), while the general release was available from May 17th on Ardbeg.com. LVMH’s marketing department went to great lengths to come up with a marketing story for the Ardbeg Ardcore, this time focussing on brand’s alleged punk past, with Islay’s main port, Port Ellen, going by the nickname ‘Punk Ellen’ in the 1970s. It is difficult to verify this little scrap of information, and it’s probably based on something obscure. Islay was never a hotbed for punk rock! However, there is something called The Ardbeg Song (?) from a Danish punk rock band.

Each of the island’s distilleries has a featured day in the Feis Ile week, during which they host tours, offer entertainment, and even release new whiskies. COVID forced the festival to go virtual in 2020 and 2021, so there was plenty of pent-up demand and excitement surrounding the 2022 in-person events.

The latest special edition has been released for the 2022 Ardbeg Day celebrations. June 4th sees celebrations at the distillery and at various events all over the world, not to mention online. Each year there is a theme. This year its punk rock. The whisky is called Ardcore and its made from dark roasted malted barley.

This whisky takes the name “Ardcore” as a shortening of “hardcore” in homage to punk rock and the roasted black malt used for this release. It’s probably appropriate to describe black malt as malt roasted all the way up to 11, or until “practically incinerated,” to quote Master Distiller Dr. Bill Lumsden in the official launch video.

In it, they describe how the typical Ardbeg heavy peat profile was toned down to better showcase the aromatics of malt so dark, it turned the mash jet black. The whisky was aged in first-fill and second-fill American ex-bourbon barrels to add a contrasting sweetness to the finished product. The Committee release, offered to Ardbeg email newsletter subscribers in select countries, was bottled at 50.1% ABV.

Tasting Notes: Ardbeg Ardcore Limited Edition Islay Single Malt Whisky

Vital Stats: Aged for nearly 10 years in mostly first-fill and some second-fill ex-bourbon barrels, 46% ABV, mash bill: 75% distilling malt, 25% black malt, SRP roughly $130/ 750ml bottle.

Appearance: This whisky is a pale straw yellow.

Nose: Lots of thick Ardbeg smoke. Coal fires. Chimney smoke. Ash. Charcoal. Soot. A touch of that famous medicinal TCP note that’s unique to Islay. The roasted barley is there too. Dark chocolate and well-fired morning rolls. Cereals. There’s also citrus – lemon and fresh orange. The longer it sits in the glass, the fruitier it seems to become, with notes of caramel sauce and melted white chocolate. Soon there’s tropical pineapple coming through. It almost develops a white wine quality. The moderate peat aroma shows a touch of sweet corn and iodine. It seems very fresh with a bracing aroma like newly fallen snow. There’s an earthy undertone of wet autumn leaves and fermented pu’er tea that distinguishes it from a typical Islay whisky.

Palate: This is sweet and delicate on entry, with an oily texture and moderately rich body. There’s a savoury quality not unlike Worcester sauce and roasted peanuts. The pepperiness builds on the finish, showing the lasting aromas of steamed corn, peat, and baked fish. An impression of salty liquorice and char. The aromas of stony beaches and seashells evaporate off the palate. Thick, almost acrid smoke like sitting too close to a campfire. Water brings out a delicate caramel note like milk powder, but does not further enhance the experience.

Finish: Smoky and long, though perhaps not as intense as expected.

ARDBEG TRAIGH BHAN BATCH 4: A September release of one of Ardbeg’s most rare spirits might pique Islay whisky collectors’ interest.

The release of Ardbeg Traigh Bhan No. 4 marks the fourth bottling of the sherry-cask-aged single malt, an emailed Aug. 17 press release states. This year’s expression, however, carries a unique flavour in its profile: smoky menthol.

This bottle is the fourth in the brand’s annual collection of Traigh Bhan whisky, an expression aged 19 years. It’s inspired by the namesake Isle of Islay’s Traigh Bhan beach, a location known as “Singing Sands” to locals.

The brand describes this year’s expression as serving decadent flavours of chocolate, raisin, peanut brittle, and bitter coffee. It offers an almost “medicinal” tone on the finish, with methanol, spicy anise, and other sharp notes.

Ardbeg 19 Years Old Traigh Bhan Batch 4 is another incredible iteration in the series,” master distiller Bill Lumsden states in the release. “It follows in the footsteps of previous bottlings, but thanks to some tweaks to the recipe, we’ve brought more woodsmoke, menthol, and aniseed to the fore. This is an impossibly balanced, not-to-be-missed Ardbeg.”

The flavour profile can be attributed in part to the whisky’s extra time spent in Oloroso sherry casks, compared to previous releases’ length of ageing. The 46.2 per cent ABV whisky is available at select spirit retailers, online, and at Ardbeg outlets. It’s priced at $299.99.

ARDBEG SMOKETRAILS: Ardbeg Smoketrails is a reportedly collectable series of limited edition whiskies aimed at travel retail.

Only available from Duty-Free and the Distillery Visitor Centre, each edition offers travellers a thrilling way to explore the influence of casks from around the world on the powerful smoky flavour of Ardbeg.                  

The first in the series – Ardbeg Smoketrails Manzanilla Edition – marries whisky aged in the finest Manzanilla sherry casks and classic Ardbeg American oak casks. The result is a taste adventure that takes in dark chocolate, salty sea spray, Brazil nuts and saddle soap.

Ardbeg Smoketrails was available on sale from the 5th of October at nine UK airports, viz., Heathrow, Gatwick, Stansted, Newcastle, Birmingham, Manchester, Aberdeen, Edinburgh and Glasgow. Then, from 1st November, in person at the Ardbeg Distillery Visitor Centre and in most international airports globally.

The Smoketrails collection would involve sourcing good quality casks from different countries. The first edition features classic Ardbeg cask whisky matured in American oak married with Ardbeg whisky aged in ex-Manzanilla casks sourced from Sanlúcar de Barrameda off Spain’s Atlantic Coast.

Given the sheer number of operational whisky distilleries, releasing a Manzanilla Sherry-aged whisky isn’t particularly revolutionary these days. Amongst the main styles of Sherry, Manzanilla is one of the lightest and driest, with low sugar levels and often a tangy, yeasty, savoury character. These influences and flavours are significantly different from the more common types of rich or sweet Sherry used for whisky maturation, the likes of Oloroso or Pedro Ximénez.

ABV: 46%

Colour: Pale Gold

Nose: Deep, pungent flavours take to the air, a curious combination of tar, saddle soap, pine resin and Brazil nuts. A lively note of pomelo, dry Riesling and a slice of burnt lemon peels. A very aromatic whisky, with lovely herbal notes and a hint of moist peat bog, while storm-churned sea spray soars overhead. With water, some chocolaty notes appear, along with a touch of engine oil.

The Manzanilla seems to have imparted some oiliness and mild doughy character, croutons and herbed sourdough bread dipped in virgin olive oil.

Palate: Fresh, oily, ashy, full of aromatic herbs. Opens with the bright tartness of Riesling accompanied by a spearmint note, somewhat like Ricola Eucalyptus drops. The texture is lightly oily and the spirit coats the tongue. Quickly develops towards an understated ashiness as the peppery and assertive note of oregano grows and grows. A slightly drying mouthfeel, followed by deep, pungent flavours that hurtle across the palate: tar, soot, dark chocolate and a very distinctive nuttiness, like Brazil nuts or hazelnut.

Finish: Medium, with light notes of lemon cake, a hint of sweetness, once again burnt lemon peels, lively prickly spice entertaining the back palate and a trailing ham-like smokiness. Plumes of fennel and pine billow up, leaving a lingering trail of carbolic soap, aniseed and leather.

With Water: A few drops of water could be added; the ABV would accept water. But then, there are a few changes. The nose senses a smouldering log fire and some gentle vanilla sweetness peeking out from behind. Earth and tomato ketchup. Going back after time reveals some chocolate, vinegar, sulphur, dirt and more earth. The smoke has been diminished somewhat and there is a hint of tobacco. On the palate, it’s more bitter, with dark chocolate and coffee overshadowing the peat. It also seems hotter and spicier, with cinnamon, cloves and red chilli appearing on the mid-palate. The smoky note of ash and burning log fires recede into the background. Going back there’s liquorice and vanilla. The mouthfeel has thinned further, but the finish remains reasonable.

Personally, I wouldn’t add water to this, but even undiluted it’s far from my favourite Ardbeg. It’s not as smoky as I’d like, but it’s also missing some of the flavours/notes I enjoy from Ardbeg, and there’s nothing replacing these notes that I find overly enamouring. It’s also not as good as some of the core range releases and I’d recommend you skip this and buy the 10 YO instead.

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