PULTENEY HIGHLAND SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY DISTILLERY
Pulteney is no longer mainland Scotland’s most northerly distillery, now that Wolfburn has staked that claim, but its stills remain the country’s oddest. Their design to that installed by James Henderson can best be described as gross expansion of those used by smugglers in the bygone era.
The British Fishery Society had established fishing ports at Tobermory (1787) and Ullapool (1788), but when shoals of herring away from the west coast, authorities turned toward Wick as a good prospect for the herring industry. From circa 1790 until ~1915, the northern port of Wick was the capital of the herring trade. William Pulteney, head of the Fisheries Board was instrumental in Wick’s expansion, from 1803 till completion by 1811. It soon became a bustling harbour with the rise in fisheries, the size of the town increased, and Wick replaced Thurso as the centre of both shipping and trade in Caithness.
This explosion in trade in turn necessitated housing and in 1810 Thomas Telford built a new town on the south bank of the river which he named Pulteneytown. In 1825, James Henderson, who had been distilling out of sight of the law in Stemster, moved into Pulteneytown and started making whisky.
At a time when road links to the town were yet to be established, the distillery was dependent on the sea for its supply of barley and for the shipping out of its malt whisky and Wick became known for the barrels of silver (herring) and gold (whisky) which left the port in vast numbers. When the Pulteney Distillery was established in 1826 it was only accessible by sea. The raw materials required for production being brought in by sea, and the whisky was shipped out again by boat. Many of the distillery workers at that time were also employed as fishermen.
The wash still is extremely unusual in that it is without a swan neck – supposedly the result of emergency surgery after it was discovered that the still was too tall for the building in which it was to be housed. The wash still now has a massive boil bulb almost as large as the base of the still and a flat top. This helps to produce high levels of reflux and separate specific alcohols. The unique shape of the bottle points to the oddity in the configuration of the wash still.
In addition, Old Pulteney is one of only a handful of distilleries still using a worm tub condenser - more unusual still in that it is made out of steel rather than wood. The spirit still has both a purifier pipe and a very convoluted, coiled lyne arm. Again, reflux is maximised here, with that purifier conceivably adding oiliness to the character as the condensing in worm tubs which add weight. The brand is named Old Pulteney and it demonstrates this balance between the heavy, leathery and oily, with a fragrant nautical freshness.
PROHIBITION: In 1922, the Wick town council voted to make the town a ‘dry’ one with no sales of alcohol permitted. The distillery remained in production under repeated change in ownership until 1930, when a downturn in the market forced it to close. Its doors re-opened in 1951 – four years after Wick’s ‘Prohibition’ ended-but, by 1995, it was in dire need of repair. Since then, the distillery has been renovated, a visitors’ centre has opened and the Old Pulteney brand has been successfully established.
THE OLD PULTENEY RANGE
Highland distillery Old Pulteney on the North Sea shore, the maritime single malts distillery has seen its core range expanded over recent years, and now stretches from the no-age-statement Huddart, which takes its name from the street on which the distillery is situated, to the yearly releases of its acclaimed 18 Year Old. All the whiskies retain the maritime flavour that has won Old Pulteney so many fans, and each boasts a delightfully distinctive character that make them worth of consideration.
Its classic 25 Year Old is all set to join the core range; in fact, many enthusiasts state that the 25 YO has alread been added. It is, however, a limited edition and only 440 bottles were exported to the USA. If integrated, which is quite likely, it is a recent super premium addition to the core single malts, replacing the multi award-winning 21 years old, which won the prestigious Whisky of the Year 2012 in Jim Murray's annual almanac in the range, and the now-extinct 17 Year Old. It has been bottled at 46% ABV and is non chill-filtered.
Old Pulteney 25 Year Old 70cl / 46% ABV / £588.57 per litre
The 2019 release of the ever-popular Old Pulteney 25 Year Old has been matured for a quarter of a century breathing the invigorating sea air of the Caithness coast for 22 years. Sheltered from a fast-changing world by the darkened calm of a distillery warehouse, the spirit mellowed at its own steady pace, echoing the reassuring rhythm of its hometown port. Few, if any, expressions in the brand’s portfolio are as arresting as this one. It’s a marvellous whisky, 22 years in ex-bourbon casks before spending three more in ex-oloroso Spanish oak butts, imparting a spicy sweetness and glimmering bronze colour. Old Pulteney is affectionately known as the “maritime malt,” and the effect of marinating for a quarter-century in the invigorating sea air of Wick is unmistakable—the oily mouthfeel and brininess serve as a perfect counterbalance to the expressive dark chocolate and honey flavors that are evident straight away. As the whisky begins to open up, citrus notes, honey, and baked apple are also revealed. The finish is a marathoner, awash in an array of taste-bud tantalizers, including sweet biscuit, cinder toffee, and black walnut.
Old Pulteney 12 Year Old 70cl / 40% ABV/ £46.36 per litre
A very popular Highland dram, with banana and sweet citrus fruit notes alongside a faint whiff of brine. A winner at the World Whisky Awards 2010 and a perennial favourite.
Colour: Deep amber with a slight pink hue.
Nose: Medium to high intensity, dry with a briny hint of sea air.
Palate: Sweet, floral, citrus: lemon and lime plus dry banana skin. Smooth and faintly salty.
Old Pulteney 15 Year Old 70cl / 46% ABV / £98.93 per litre
A rich, elegant single malt that's part of Old Pulteney's new range for 2018. This 15-year-old single malt has been matured in both ex-bourbon and Spanish oak casks.
Nose: Intense yet balanced. Bursting with rich dried fruit, ripe apples and citrus, with honey sweetness and a generous chord of creamy vanilla. Slightly chocolaty and floral in the background.
Palate: Fragrant spices and Christmas cake, with layers of chocolate and a distinct dark toffee sweetness. There is a hint of salty sea air on the finish, a clear connection to the influence of the sea on this single malt.
Old Pulteney 18 Year Old 70cl / 46% ABV/£168.57 per litre
A 2018 induction, Old Pulteney's 18 Year Old is aged in both ex-bourbon and Spanish oak casks. This is an intense and warming incarnation of the beloved maritime malt.
Nose: Intense and warming. Indulgent chocolate and creamy vanilla, with rich honey sweetness tempered by vibrant spices. A whisper of flowery fruitiness yields to crisp bursts of citrus and apple.
Palate: Chocolaty indulgence layered with honeyed spices and Christmas cake. Floral notes lend a dash of finesse, while zesty hints of citrus and green apple enliven a lovely long finish.
Old Pulteney Huddart 70cl / 46% ABV /£63.93 per litre
An intriguing Old Pulteney that's part of the revamped range for 2018. This non-age-statement single malt has been finished in barrels that previously held peated whisky, giving it mellow smoke notes alongside the classic Pulteney character.
Nose: Rich and warming. Brimming initially with mellow wood smoke, honey and oily leather, blooming later into crisp green apple. Creamy vanilla and a hint of burnt toffee in the background.
Palate: Freshly-ground spices and soft vanilla balance the notes of smoke and peat fire. There are both richly sweet and distinctly salty coastal flavours in the background, together reminiscent of salted caramel.
The other bottling commonly available is the new 10 Year Old. Unveiled in October 2018, the Old Pulteney 10 Year Old is one of three travel retail exclusive whiskies from the Pulteney distillery in Wick on the north coast of Scotland. Matured for 10 years in second-fill American oak, ex-bourbon barrels it has been bottled at 40% ABV and is presented in a 1 litre bottle.
Old Pulteney 10 Years Old 1 L/40% ABV/£40
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