EXCELLENT SCOTCH WHISKY AT MOUTH-WATERING PRICES
In December 2019, I had written about the quick progress
being made by German Supermarket Giants Aldi and Lidl in producing their own made to order
Scotch whiskies at unbelievably low prices and how their popularity was growing
exponentially in the European Market. But the new Corona Virus did not spare
either of them. Both Lidl and Aldi saw sales growth slow down during the
pandemic in a struggle to compete with the UK’s Big Four that were bolstered by
their online capabilities.
Lidl is based out of Neckarsulm, Germany and first came to
the United Kingdom in 1994. Since then, they have grown to 760 stores in locations
across the country and have now reached across the pond with an estimated 300
stores in operation in the United States.
Neither Aldi or Lidl, which have both challenged the
traditional UK supermarkets in recent years, have in-house grocery delivery
capabilities, with consumers only able to buy digitally using third-party apps
such as Deliveroo, units of which are being ramped up. Even so, Lidl and Aldi
reported that sales were up 10.9 per cent and 5.6 per cent respectively in the
12 weeks to 21 February. This week, at a time when a trip to the supermarket is
the highlight of most people’s week, British shoppers have voted German
discounter Aldi as the best grocers to go for those venturing out and Aldi
received a stellar five-star rating for value for money, buttressed by their
expanding sales of made to order Scotch whiskies.
Lidl is not far behind in sales of Scotch whisky and has now
gone one up. Amongst its frontrunners, Lidl boasts of a Speyside malt as well
as two smoothies from Islay, one a 16 YO, all at prices that wouldn’t hurt your
pocket as much as Scotch made by Scottish companies.
Lidl has long offered affordable whisky in their spirits
selection. Lidl announced in 2017 that a new range of single malts would be
released, using a bit of manufacturing license in that it had named their brand
Ben Bracken, a mite Gaelic, wouldn’t you say? Sourced from the Highlands,
Speyside and Islay regions, they would retail at €19.99 a bottle. Be that as it
may, the quality of these low-cost expressions is exceptional, the downers for
the aficionado being the ABV at 40%, chill filtration and addition of caramel
colour E150a.
They have a Glenalba single malt brand range of much older vintage and Abrachan for
blended malts. The current range is bottled by ‘Clydesdale Whisky Co’ in
Glasgow, not to be confused with the other Clydesdale independent bottler and
supposedly related to Whyte & MacKay according to some sources.
THE BEN BRACKEN BASIC NAS RANGE
Over the years Lidl supermarkets have had all kinds of Ben Bracken bottlings, some with age statements (12 Years, 16 Years, 28 Years…)
many of which have only been released in the UK. Since 2017, they seem to have a
standard NAS range with three expressions:
- Ben Bracken Highland single malt
- Ben Bracken Speyside single malt
- Ben Bracken Islay single malt
It is not stated on the label where the liquid is sourced from and I cannot say for certain exactly where this dram originated from. It is interesting to see that the Ben Bracken range is labelled by region, in terms of flavour profile. Frankly, these descriptors are good enough and I accept that for the target market this can be helpful rather than an oversimplification of Scotch styles. This bottling is the standard 40% ABV and has no age statement. Enthusiasts will discover that the age is somewhere in the 4-6 year range. They are priced at £17.49 a bottle, and at that price it is very hard to see how you can go wrong if you like whisky in general. It does not disappoint.
Nose: soaked oats, toffee, nutmeg and a light meaty edge.
Overripe orange. It has a lot more weight to it than the Speyside but I find it
a little less interesting. Lots of cereals and caramel, but nothing stands out.
Palate: Slightly rough at first contact, but smoothens over
with time and a coupla drops of water, when it gains some freshness. Certainly
more toast, toffee sweetness and a hint of chocolate. Cooked fruits. Cinnamon.
A hint of roasted nuts.
Finish: medium, with hints of coffee, spice and chocolate.
Ben Bracken Islay Single Malt 40% ABV
Around that same low cost again, for what’s close to
a Caol Ila single malt. Loses out a lot for want of a proper ABV. But again,
this is a price / quality ratio that is hard to criticise.
Nose: quite smoky, with hints of
kippers and brine behind it. Some vanilla and almond sweetness in the
background. Cigarette smoke. Sweet citrus. Hints of yeasty dough. Lacking some
punch, it feels like a friendlier version of Big Peat.
Mouth: sweet mineral notes, with
brine and spices. Plenty of cold ashes now, not bad. Lemons, hints of salted
toffee. Hazelnut. Dilution hurt it a little though.
Finish: quite long, slightly high
on the spices but also nicely oily.
Ben Bracken Speyside Single
Malt 40% ABV
For its cost, this is a fair offer from Lidl. Nothing to get overly excited about but good value for money, even with the edge on the palate a cue
to its young age.
Nose: fresh and not too bad actually. Banana ice cream, vanilla custard, raisins. Apricots in syrup. Sugary cereals, hints of honey.
Faint nutty notes. Seems older than 3 years.
Mouth: less exciting. Even with the low ABV the alcohol isn’t
really integrated. Apples, raisins, some peppery oak and plenty of malty notes.
A little caramel too.
Finish: medium, with light oak spice and sweet malt.
Ben Bracken's 16 YO Islay Single Malt 43% ABV
While 2020 may not have been our best year, one thing we’ve
certainly enjoyed is whisky. And a glimpse of another tonic, the vaccine to
cope with the Corona Virus. We’ve all been wondering what’s around the corner
and what the future holds. On the earthly front, other seasonal traditions are
the whisky specials from the German supermarkets- A hopeful bargain, gift or an
easy drinker.
Aldi didn’t really go all out this year; perhaps they have a surprise in store. If you’re a supermarket looking to marry value with an attractive price tag, have things become truly impossible to deliver? Well, Lidl managed to pull off this special from Islay and bottled at 16 years of age. Created by the experienced hands at Whyte & Mackay, if you can find a bottle, then it’s yours for just £34.99. Wow!
A number of controversies were created around the whisky about its antecedents. Only one of the Islay distilleries is the true source, but speculation confirms the human condition to know more, and a refusal to believe that something is as good as it seems. Have we all become sceptical in whisky, that if something is too good to be true, then clearly it isn’t?
Maybe I’m just an experienced onlooker, or someone, who has been around the block more times than necessary and doesn’t want to do it again – I don’t really care what Islay distillery produced this. The price point of £34.99 and the availability of an age statement should remove any need for hot air. As long as the whisky is good enough and I’m happy with the experience that should be enough, shouldn’t it?
For the record, this Ben Bracken is bottled at 43% strength and chill filtered. I’m fine with that given the price. The packaging actually
plays host to some wonderful moments such as cask aged for 16 years, matured in
oak. What they don’t want to state is the distillery, or provide a clue as
such, unlike many independent bottlers who have dropped hints where possible.
There’s a rich colour on display, suggestive that E150a has been added to a
sizeable degree, particularly given the omission when it comes to a natural
colour statement. Again, you’d expect this feature given the price point.
Despite all these flaws, there’s no denying that the bottle
looks a little more premium than the regular Ben Bracken releases. Some care
and effort has been put into the presentation, so let’s hope that continues into the liquid.
Colour: Caramel.
On the nose: it has character despite the strength with a
waft of peat kicking off proceedings. Pine cones, caramel and coastline
character with driftwood, sea salt and old rope. Spices as well with black
peppercorn and cloves. Charcoal, autumnal forest decay and Muscovado sugar.
Adding water reveals notes of coffee, amber and old newspaper.
In the mouth: a more rounded peat, approachable and not
overpowering at this strength. Nuttiness with walnuts and pecans. Cracked black
pepper and smoky towards the finish. Shoe polish, black tea and charcoal with
liquorice. Water on the palate reveals candied orange and varnish.
I’d certainly buy another bottle if I could find one on the shelves across the UK.
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