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Sunday 23 April 2017

JAPANESE WHISKY: SERIOUS CONTENDERS TO SCOTCH

Japanese Whisky Growing In Popularity

The first commercial production Japanese whisky began in 1924 upon the opening of the country's first distillery, Yamazaki. Broadly speaking the style of Japanese whisky is more similar to that of Scotch whisky than other major styles of whisky.

There are several companies producing whisky in Japan, but the two best-known and most widely available are Suntory and Nikka. Both of these produce blended as well as single malt whiskies and blended malt whiskies, with their main blended whiskies being Suntory kakubin (square bottle), and Black Nikka Clear. There are also a large number of special bottlings and limited editions.


Since 2011, there are around nine active whisky distilleries in Japan:

Yamazaki: owned by Suntory, between Osaka/Kyoto on the main island of Honshū. 
Hakushu: owned by Suntory, in Yamanashi Prefecture on Honshū.
Yoichi: owned by Nikka, on the northern island of Hokkaidō:
Miyagikyo (formerly Sendai): also owned by Nikka, in the north of the main island, near the city of Sendai. 
Fuji Gotemba: owned by Kirin, at the foot of Mount Fuji in Shizuoka. 
Chichibu: near Chichibu in Saitama Prefecture. This is the new Chichibu distillery, founded by Ichiro Akuto, grandson of the distiller at Hanyu. It opened in 2008. 
Shinshu: owned by Hombo, in Nagano Prefecture on the main island of Honshū. 
White Oak: owned by Eigashima Shuzou, in Hyogo on the main island of Honshū.
Eigashima Distillery: Eigashima Shuzo is located in Akashi City, Hyogo Prefecture, and first acquired a whisky-making license in 1919. The new distillery was established in 1984.

Since 2000, Japanese whiskies have won awards, including top honors, in international competitions, notably Suntory. At the 2003 International Spirits Challenge, Suntory Yamazaki won a gold medal, and Suntory whiskies continued to win gold medals every year through 2013, with all three malt whiskies winning a trophy (the top prize) in either 2012 (Yamazaki 18 years old and Hakushu 25 years old) or 2013 (Hibiki 21 years old), and Suntory itself winning distiller of the year in 2010, 2012, and 2013.

The resultant acclaim nudged Japan's distilleries to market overseas. Further, in recent years a number of blind tastings have been organized by Whisky Magazine, which have included Japanese single malts in the lineup, along with malts from distilleries considered to be among the best in Scotland. On more than one occasion, the results have had Japanese single malts (particularly those of Nikka's Yoichi and Suntory's Yamazaki) scoring higher than their Scottish counterparts.

In May 2015, there were two official single cask festival bottlings: two Japanese whiskies (a Chichibu six-YO 2009/2015 and a Mars Komagatakefour YO 2011/2015). Both were excellent – and much sought-after – but the Mars seemed to be the crowd favorite. Seeing as this was the first single cask from the ‘new regime’ (i.e. distillate from after the two-decade hiatus in production), it seems to spell good things for the future.

Prices keep going up, but that is a discussion we will keep for a rainy day!

The Hakushu distillery in central Japan was once the largest whisky distillery in the world, with an annual production capacity of 12 million litres. One of the best places online to discover more about Japanese whisky is nonjatta. blogspot.com. Their site is probably the most comprehensive sources on Japanese single malts for English speakers.

Considering there are only nine active single-malt distilleries in Japan, the variety of styles is startling. All share a basic DNA with traditional Scotch: Japanese whisky also starts with malted barley imported from Scotland, because it's the best and the cheapest. And yet there are differences. The Japanese don't acquire whiskies from other distilleries to make their distinctive blends, the way the Scots do. Instead, each distillery creates its many in-house variations using an array of copper pot stills and wooden barrels.

The resulting whiskies are more floral, with softer, silkier textures, than those from Scotland. At Nikka's Yoichi distillery, the pot stills are heated by coal fires, as opposed to steam, which gives their single malts richer, peatier flavors. And the Yamazaki distillery's use of virgin mizunara barrels contributes aromas of temple incense and sandalwood.

Climate and landscape are also key flavour influencers. Whiskies produced at higher elevations, such as those at Suntory's Hakushu distillery in the southern Japanese Alps, are notably clean and crisp, as are those from the Fuji-Gotemba distillery, which uses snowmelt from Mt. Fuji.

Part of the growing interest in Japanese whisky is that "people crave the new, the unique and the unobtainable."

Among the most-prized collectibles are single-cask bottles from Japan's storied, now-closed distilleries. For instance, UK-based Number One Drinks Co. obtained the distribution rights to the remaining 364 casks of Karuizawa. The legendary 1967, with notes of tobacco, sherry, dark chocolate and roasted coffee beans, originally sold in 2009 for $380 but now costs 10 times that, while the 1968 sold at a Bonhams auction in Hong Kong for almost $6,000, far above the high estimate.

Equally rare are Ichiro's Malt Card whiskies from the shuttered Hanyu distillery, with labels that look like playing cards; a set of 13 brought $12,642 at Bonhams's November Hong Kong sale.

The Three Top Bottles

Japanese whiskies aren't just Scotch made in Japan. They embody a different, especially delicate aesthetic, based on harmony and precision. They're more subtle Zen garden than sturdy Scottish kilt. The top bottles aren't easy to find, even in Japan, but they're worth the search.

The good news is that starting mid-2021, we can expect to see these very whiskies at down to earth prices, as whisky distilleries are sprouting by the day, pushing out a glut of good malt and blended whiskies. Don’t give up on the Japanese whisky hunt, because with enough persistence, you can still find age statement bottles, along with plenty of newer, more readily available blends.

From Suntory's mountain distillery, found deep within the forests of Mount Kaikomagatake, Hakushu is a single malt that takes liquid from the pure waters of the Southern Japanese Alps. This gives it a terrific fresh flavour, many considering it as a uniquely liberating malt whisky. The 25 Year Old single malt is rated the best whisky in the world World Drinks Awards 2020. 

The 12 YO from the Hakushu range, with fresh notes of fruit and malt, along with its burst of peat and smoke and dried cherry is a treat and affordable ($70)

This fresh, lightly smoky whisky from Suntory's forest distillery--inside a bird sanctuary 2,200 feet (670 meters) up in the southern Japanese Alps -- has notes of green apple and smoky autumn leaves. Barring the peat, the flavours are similar to the Hakushu 18 YO, which gives off light pear, apple, and citrus notes underscored by ribbons of subtle smoke. It has been praised by lovers of gastronomy as an ideal accompaniment for Japanese food.  

Hibiki whisky is one of the most popular premium blended ranges to come out of Japan. The bottles are iconic, featuring 24 facets that represent the 24 small seasons of Japan and the hours in a day. The core range previously included the Hibiki 12 Year-Old, which was discontinued in 2015, before the Hibiki Harmony NAS was introduced. While fans were saddened to see it go, the aged 17-, 21-, and 30-Year-Old bottlings remained to keep drinkers happy. The Hibiki 21-Year-Old is by far the most globally renowned expression in the portfolio, having received the award for the "World’s Best Blended Whisky" on five separate occasions, at the World Whiskies Awards. With each award both the price and demand for the Hibiki 21 has risen, making the 17 the last of the current Hibiki aged range that could be bought at a price that wouldn't break the bank.


Expect the price of the Hibiki 17 to rise on the secondary market and bottles to become ever harder to find. A recent feature by the Nikkei Asia Review showcased the huge sales growth Japanese whisky has experienced in the past decade. The focus is on aged expressions which, according to many online retailers and stores in Japan, sell out immediately after being placed on the shelves, both real and virtual.

Though aged stock is lessening, the major Japanese whisky maker is optimistic about the category’s growth in the future, and will not make the mistake of running out of stock again. Since 2013, Suntory has invested over $182 million in ramping up production. Stills have been added to both the Yamazaki and Hakushu sites and the company’s Ohmi Ageing Cellar has undergone a large expansion. According to Suntory's PR team, an extra $80 million will be invested this year to expand the Hakushu ageing facilities.


Suntory is the oldest whisky making company in Japan. Its origins stretch back to a small shop, started in 1899 by Torii Shinjiro, which specialized in selling imported wines. Today, it is the country’s largest and most recognizable producer of quality whisky. Yamazaki 12 Year black box was introduced to the market in 1984 and was the first seriously marketed Japanese single malt whisky. Now, Yamazaki is an internationally coveted brand, winning award after award. You know you have quality when you have Yamazaki. This bottle was distilled at Yamazaki – the country’s oldest distillery – and features the new box black box that was unveiled in 2018. 

It has been said that it was the Yamazaki 12 Year Old that propelled Japanese whisky to international fame after it picked up a Gold award at the International Spirits Challenge 2003, and has gone from strength to strength after that award.

The whisky first came onto the market in 1984, but it wouldn’t be recognised for its quality, poise and sheer excellence until some years later. Today, it is without a doubt one of the best Japanese whiskies in the world (hence why it’s the second best-seller) and it has become a staple for millions of whisky fans around the globe.

Each year, the Yamazaki distillery releases a new edition of the 12 Year Old and while the label and box can change, the incredible liquid inside remains the same. This whisky has now picked up more awards than one would care to count and that only goes to highlight it’s supreme quality.

Rich sherried fruits, subtle spices and a plethora of other intriguing notes can be found in a glass of this exceptional whisky. A must for every whisky enthusiast. 


THE TOP FIVE JAPANESE WHISKIES

LEADING 12 YO JAPANESE WHISKIES IN THE WORLD

The top five of Japan’s 12-year-old whiskies are: Yamazaki, Hakushu, Nikka Taketsuru, Nikka Miyagikyo and Hibiki. Drink them as you like, but note that the Japanese typically add a dash (or a lot) of water. I use between 5 and 10 drops of water, using a pipette or drinking straw. I like Yamazaki the most.I have included the Yoichi 10-year-old as a very close 6th.

                                                            

1. Suntory Yamazaki

The Sweetest:

The first seriously marketed whisky from the distillery that started it all: Yamazaki 12-year-old.

Yamazaki Distilley is in southwestern Kyoto at the foot of Mt.Tennozan. It has access to high-quality water, which is even mentioned in the Man'yoshu, the ancient anthology of Japanese poetry, and the specific natural environment vital in whisky-making. Whisky-making at Yamazaki Distillery is notable for its wide variety of whiskies, unique at a global level. For example, they select among wooden and stainless steel washbacks in the fermentation process, between different sizes and shapes of pot stills in the distillation process, and between various kinds of casks in the maturation process, creating a highly diverse variety of whiskies at every step of the process from mashing through fermentation, distillation, and maturation.

The various whiskies matured in casks pass into the care of the blenders. The blenders evaluate the extent of maturation of whisky in each cask and carefully select and determine the combination of whiskies that will best be vatted into a final product with exactly the right characteristics. They taste up to two or three hundred types of whisky a day, and predict when each cask will be at its best and when it should be used.

These skillful craftsmen also manage their collection of whiskies by foreseeing what kind of whiskies will be needed in the future. Given the long time required from mashing until the product is ready, whisky-making can be considered "collaborative work between blenders of the past, present, and future." In 2003, the Yamazaki 12 Years Old single malt whisky produced at Yamazaki Distillery became the first Japanese whisky to win the gold medal at the ISC (International Spirits Challenge)-a highly authoritative spirits competition in the world. Suntory has continued to win awards for its whiskies, earning global recognition for Japanese whisky.

This is the classic, and for good reason. It’s light. It’s floral. It’s delicious. For what you’re getting, it’s reasonably priced. On the nose, one gets hints of zest and honey, and the palate, smooth and sweet, brings flavors of citrus with some vanilla oakiness. If you have a snobbish friend who insists on Scotch, a glass of Yamazaki should be the first class in a course of conversion to the Japanese path. 

2. Suntory Hakushu

The Smokiest:

Hakushu Distillery was established in 1973. It is located in the foothills of Mt. Kaikomagatake in Japan's Southern Alps, where cool, clear waters flow through a pristine forest environment. Hakushu is the verdant single malt Japanese whisky born in Suntory's Hakushu Distillery. Made from water with a rare softness and maturing in a lush forested microclimate, Hakushu's renowned single malt Japanese whiskies are blessed by the region's ever-changing seasons—each leaving their own verdant signature. Refreshingly herbal and gently smoky, Hakushu is embraced as the intriguing single malt Japanese whisky from the award-winning House of Suntory Whisky.

Hakushu, Suntory’s third American release, comes in a green bottle (a rarity among most clear-bottled Japanese whiskies) that hints at its “green” flavor profile: leaves and fruits, particularly pear. Marketed as the “fresh” whisky, Hakushu 12-year-old comes from the forests at the base of the Southern Japanese Alps. However, you’d be forgiven if you mistake this for an Islay malt. Even thoroughbred tasters often fail to separate the two. The use of peated barley, imported from Scotland, gives the whisky a smoky nose that suggests seaside origins; then you taste the delicate whisky, and find yourself transported to the forests of Japan.

A remarkable expression of Japanese whisky crafted with meticulous attention to detail. This exquisite 12-year-old single malt from the renowned Suntory distillery embodies the spirit of nature, with each sip transporting you to the untouched forests of Japan's Southern Alps. Carefully selected and aged in traditional casks, this whisky offers a harmonious balance of flavours that captivate the senses. The nose is greeted by a fresh and invigorating bouquet, reminiscent of lush green forests, with delicate notes of citrus, pear, and a hint of mint. As it glides across the palate, a gentle sweetness emerges, accompanied by vibrant fruity tones and the subtle presence of oak.

A remarkable expression of Japanese whisky crafted with meticulous attention to detail. This exquisite 12-year-old single malt from the renowned Suntory distillery embodies the spirit of nature, with each sip transporting you to the untouched forests of Japan's Southern Alps. Carefully selected and aged in traditional casks, this whisky offers a harmonious balance of flavours that captivate the senses. The nose is greeted by a fresh and invigorating bouquet, reminiscent of lush green forests, with delicate notes of citrus, pear, and a hint of mint. As it glides across the palate, a gentle sweetness emerges, accompanied by vibrant fruity tones and the subtle presence of oak.

This whisky boasts a smooth and refined finish that lingers, leaving a satisfying warmth that resonates long after the last sip. Its craftsmanship and artistry have earned it accolades from whisky enthusiasts worldwide, cementing its place as a beloved addition to any connoisseur's collection. Whether you are a seasoned whisky aficionado or new to the world of Japanese whisky, Hakushu 12YO single malt is an exceptional choice that showcases the mastery of Suntory's distillation techniques. Indulge in this unparalleled sensory experience and discover the magic of Hakushu.

This whisky boasts a smooth and refined finish that lingers, leaving a satisfying warmth that resonates long after the last sip. Its craftsmanship and artistry have earned it accolades from whisky enthusiasts worldwide, cementing its place as a beloved addition to any connoisseur's collection. Whether you are a seasoned whisky aficionado or new to the world of Japanese whisky, Hakushu 12YO single malt is an exceptional choice that showcases the mastery of Suntory's distillation techniques. Indulge in this unparalleled sensory experience and discover the magic of Hakushu.

3. Nikka Miyagikyo Single Malt 45% ABV 700/ 750ml

The Most Surprising:

Miyagikyo Single Malt is a range of single malt expressions from the Miyagikyo Distillery. Nikka's founder Masataka Taketsuru chose a valley in the Miyagi prefecture as the site for his second distillery, and started its operation in 1969. He aimed to make a complete contrast between the two distilleries, Miyagikyo and Yoichi, with different natural environments and production methods.

Miyagikyo malts are described as elegant and fruity. Made from light peated and non-peated malted barley, whiskies distilled in pot stills heated by indirect steam express a signature fruitiness and delicate mouthfeel. This no-age-statement version was released in 2016 as a permanent product that showcases the elegant style of Miyagikyo malts, when all age-statements were discontinued. This bottling has estery aromas generated by carefully selected yeast strains along with distinctive Sherry cask influence.

When you nose this whisky, it releases little by the way of aroma. It takes ten minutes to settle and a second sniff yields heavy doses of toffee and caramel. The taste — full of strong, sweet vanilla — mimicks the nose’s form: slow to build, but impressive at its peak.Very classy finish.

4. Nikka Taketsuru Pure Malt

The Smoothest:

This is a signature label in honour of Nikka's founder Masataka Taketsuru, the first Japanese who mastered whisky-making in Scotland and brought this expertise back to Japan. While being a disciplined craftsman, he was also a person of curiosity and open-mindedness. This is a tribute to Masataka from his successors, highlighting a perfect balance with complexity achieved by precise blending inherited from the founder.

Interestingly, this is a vatted malt (a blend of single malts) and not blended whisky, released for the first time just last year. It combines 12-year-old malts from Nikka’s Yoichi and Miyagikyo distilleries. The darkest of the five whiskies (though still light, as far as whiskies go), the Taketsuru wows your taste with its even balance and smooth finish.

Nikka Taketsuru Pure Malt leads with creamy honey and vanilla, bright pear / pineapple / starfruit, toasted biscuit and roasted oak, a very faint hint of smoke, and subtle dark fruit that’s easy to miss. It’s generally a bright, sweet, and vibrantly fruity malt whisky that smell-wise reminds me most of Miyagikyo. However, honey dominates the palate — so much so, in fact, that you feel like you are drinking straight from a honeycomb.

After swirling there’s a mix of creamy honey, vanilla, and roasted grains, followed by pear, starfruit, grapefruit, roasted oak, cinnamon, and hints of coffee grounds. None of that is surprising because Miyagikyo and Yoichi are distilled exactly the same way. And just like Yoichi, there’s that gentle hint of smoke that was expected to be stronger. Like Miyagikyo, the dark fruit / date is easy to miss. The heat has a bigger presence than it should. Nikka Taketsuru Pure Malt Whisky smells nice, but falls short of richness and depth because it’s still young.

5. Suntory Hibiki

The Sexiest Bottle

Housed in a distinct, multi-faceted, corked (!) bottle, or decanter, this Suntory whisky looks like something pulled from Noel’s personal bar. Although the nose is a bit sharp, the Hibiki gains points for using whisky aged in Mizunara, a rare Japanese oak, as well as casks formerly used to hold Japanese plum liqueur. Like the Nikka Miyagikyo, the Hibiki is rich and thick, bordering on syrupy. The taste mirrors the honey and vanilla of other offerings, but with an oily texture and small notes of fruit.

Hibiki is the paragon of harmony—launched in 1989 to commemorate Suntory's philosophy of living in harmony with people and nature. The name Hibiki means "resonance" in Japanese. Suntory Whisky Hibiki resonates with the subtleties of nature infused by the 24 seasons of Japan's traditional calendar and reflected in the 24 facets of its bottle's design. Hibiki is a blend that is embraced as an icon of Japanese luxury from the award-winning House of Suntory Whisky.

Inspired by the subtleties of Japanese seasons and mastered by Suntory's Art of Blending, Hibiki Japanese Harmony is a noble and meticulous blended whisky. American White Oak malt whiskies create a solid base. The rare Mizunara (Japanese oak) and sherry cask malt whiskies are the dressing. The smoky malt whiskies enact as subtle accents to create depth and further complexity. Grain whiskies from Suntory's Chita distillery act as the dashi, or broth, to complete the personality of the malt whiskies and enhance their overall harmony. Hibiki Japanese Harmony is extremely versatile.

Whether enjoyed neat, on the rocks, blended with water or mixed as a cocktail, the harmony of this blend remains complete. It is a delicately balanced, smooth and subtly sweet blended whisky that enhances any dining experience. Luminous and delicate, it promotes a transparency that unveils complexity. Hibiki Harmony is best enjoyed with a hand-carved ice ball for the ultimate Japanese whisky experience. Hibiki is embraced as the paragon of the Art of Japanese Whisky. It is not only Japan's most highly awarded blended whisky, but also among the most and honored whiskies in the world.

Colour: Amber.
Nose: Rose, lychee, hint of rosemary, mature woodiness, sandalwood.
Palate: Honey-like sweetness, candied orange peel, white chocolate.
Finish: Subtle, tender long finish, with hint of Mizunara oak.

6. Yoich 10 YO

A very well made single malt from Japan, Yoichi is the jewel in Nikka's crown for a 10 year old.

This is a single malt from Nikka’s first distillery established in 1934. The founder Masataka Taketsuru chose Yoichi in Hokkaido because of the similar environmental conditions to Scotland, where he learned whisky-making. Along with Yoichi’s original smokiness, this 10-year-old version offers round maturity generated over years integrated with distinctive peaty, well-balanced woody and delicate herbaceous notes.

Nikka has finally brought back age-stated Japanese whiskey with Yoichi 10 Year Single Malt. The first release, ~late 2022, of around 10,000 bottles was only sold in Japan, but this is a second larger batch for Japan, the US, and other markets. The bad news though is that it’s far from affordable at US$150-250.

The Yoichi distillery is located in a secluded area about 1 hour west of Sapporo, the largest city in Hokkaido. It’s the northern-most part of Japan, so it’s out of the way for many travellers, but it shouldn’t be overlooked. Since the distillery is so far north, it also experiences long and intense winters, with Sapporo city no stranger to 18-24 inches of snow. As a result, those intense winters will have an impact on how Nikka Yoichi Single Malt ages. Ageing will be very slow during the long colder season from late fall into early spring, with a huge temperature swing into the summer that’s probably more like Kentucky than Scotland.

Nose: At first, bright floral honey, honeysuckle, cantaloupe, Asian pear, green grape, pineapple, fennel, and just a little roasted oak, roasted grain, dried mushroom, dark chocolate, and mint. Yoichi 10 Year smells a lot like aged Fino sherry (minus any nuttiness) or aged white wine. Yoichi is peated, but it’s faint at best. The viscosity and level of fragrance are actually really good for 45% ABV. It has the 45% ABV heat but low 50% density.

Palate: The flavours start with honey, honeysuckle, pear, pineapple, green grape, gentle smoke and fungal peat, roasted oak, mint, and fennel. Yoichi 10 Year is bright, fruity, and tropical at first, but the smoke and peat comes out a little bit for that peaty mist around the tropicality. The peat isn’t subtle, but it’s also not big and burly. Yoichi 10 Year tastes really good and feels like an extra-aged Fino sherry. The viscosity and actually good mouthfeel are pleasant surprises too, and this could be truly special at ~50% ABV.

Finish: The finish starts with honey, pineapple, fennel, and smoke with more lingering light smoke, mint, and green grape skins. After “chewing”, it leaves honey, green grape, starfruit, and a sweet smoke with lingering smoky starfruit, pineapple, and mint. Pleasant but mild.




Tuesday 14 March 2017

MORE TIDBITS ABOUT SCOTCH WHISKY

  A FOLLOW UP TO FUN FACTS ABOUT WHISKY

For a comprehensive list of nearly 1500 Fun Facts, please click here.

Some 20 million casks, over 500 million cases, are maturing in warehouses in Scotland. This represents the equivalent of approximately 10 billion bottles of Scotch after bottling

Scotch is sold in more than 200 markets globally.    

Total amount of Scotch released for sale to the UK market was 90m bottles of 70 cl. each.

Scotch sells three times its nearest foreign whisky rival.

The industry generated about £3 billion in tax revenue to the UK government.

Scotch whisky accounts for a quarter of UK food and drink exports.

Export of Scotch whisky has increased by 87% in the past decade.

A closed bottle of Scotch can be kept for 100 years+ and will still be good to drink.

After opening, a half-full bottle of Scotch whisky will remain good for six to eight months.

The most expensive bottle of Scotch whisky today is Isabella’s Islay ($6.2 Million).

The oldest Scotch whisky on the market is the Aisla T’Orten 107 Years old, distilled in 1906 and available for $ 1.43 million (£870,000). Probably an April Fool's Day prank.

The highest price paid at an auction for a Scotch Whisky is £288,000 (for a 64-year-old 42.5 % Macallan malt whisky).

Glenfiddich is the largest selling single malt in the world, followed by the Glenlivet.

Johnnie Walker Red label is the world's largest selling Scotch whisky. 

Johnnie Walker Black label is the world's best-selling deluxe whisky.

The Famous Grouse is the most popular Scotch whisky in the UK.

Glenmorangie is the largest selling malt whisky in Scotland.

Aberfeldy is the most popular single malt Scotch whisky in the US.

Experts advise you to drink Single Malt whisky neat or with a tiny bit of water. The water supposedly ‘Releases the Serpent’ from the whisky.

If there is a serpent, there is also an Angel. As it ages, 2.0-2.5 % of the whisky maturing in a barrel is lost to evaporation every year. Distillers refer to this as the ‘angel’s share’.

But the Devil has the last word. The larger the barrel used to mature whisky, the more the spirit that is absorbed by the wood and lost, called by distillers the ‘Devil’s Cut’. The professional term for it is INDRINK.

The most expensive first world country in which to buy Scotch is New Zealand. In the EU, Austria and Switzerland are the most expensive.

Although their proof differs, standard drinks of beer, wine and spirits (liquor) contain an equivalent amount of alcohol – 0.6 ounces each. They’re all the same to a breathalyzer.

Glenturret is the oldest distillery in Scotland (1775), followed by Bowmore (1779). 

Glenturret, Oban and Glenlivet are the three oldest malt whiskies currently sold.

William Lawson’s blended Scotch, a relatively unknown brand, is a bestseller in Russia.

18,000 litres of Scotch whisky worth over $800,000 (£ 500,000) were accidentally flushed down the drain at the Dumbarton bottling plant of Chivas Brothers in March 2013. 

There are a total of 117 distilleries in Scotland, 110 malt and 7 grain or multipurpose, according to the research briefings and fact sheets presented to the UK Parliament.

In the UK, the six most popular Scotch blended Whiskies are The Famous Grouse, Bell’s, William Grant’s, Teacher’s, J&B and High Commissioner.

LVMH’s Glenmorangie distillery is one of the smallest in the Highlands and employs just sixteen craftsmen – ‘The Sixteen Men of Tain’ - who have become synonymous with the Glenmorangie brand all over the world.

Edradour was the smallest distillery in Scotland - Three people run the entire operation.

Strathearn distillery claims to hold that distinction. It is temporarily closed today.

Loch Ewe is the smallest distillery in size in Scotland.



Releases of Scotch whisky from bond for sale in the UK in the first half totaled 37.3 million bottles, down about 5.5% on the corresponding figure of 39.5 million in the opening six months of 2012. The SWA blamed the domestic excise duty regime, and called for UK Government help in this regard.

The fastest growing Scotch whisky in the world over the last five years was Black Dog.

The Australian Wine Research Institute has introduced a measure called a standard drink. In Australia, a standard drink contains 10 g (12.67 ml) of alcohol, the amount that an average adult male can metabolize in one hour.

Japanese owned Tomatin is the largest capacity distillery in Scotland.

Haig’s Pinch (Dimple) is the fourth largest blended Deluxe Scotch whisky in the world.

Persian  overlords were required to rule twice on a case; once when stone cold sober and again when intoxicated, in the belief of ‘in vino veritas’. 

UK Whisky Cheaper in Europe: The price of a bottle of whisky, including the Excise Duty, has been subject to Value Added Tax since 1973. The EU mandated size of the Scotch bottle is 70 cl or 700 ml, minimum 40 per cent ABV. In a single European market, Scotch actually costs less in Europe than in the UK. A 70cl of the average blended Scotch whisky might sell for £10.70 in the UK. Tax would take £7.07 or 66% of the retail price. In 10 out of 15 European countries, lower taxes mean that the same bottle is sold for less. Look at the list below:
Spain about £4.50 about 40%
Italy about £4.85 about 40%
Greece about £ 5.50 about 44%
Germany about £6.40 about 49%
France about £6.60 about 55%
Andorra about £ 3.75, about 35%

You Can Watch Whisky Production Processes Live: Bruichladdich, a distillery on the island of Islay, has webcams that allow you to see each of the whisky making processes as they happen. Go to www.bruichladdich.com/web_cam and watch whisky being produced live (if they are working).

Age Mentioned on a Blended Whisky Label: A blended whisky contains anywhere from 15 to 50 different malt whiskies. The skill of the blender is to create character and consistency in the product – and to choose only the whiskies that complement each other. The age of the blended Whisky mentioned on the bottle refers to the youngest whisky in the blend. If it says 10 years it means that the youngest Whisky has been matured for a minimum period of 10 years in oak casks. The same holds good for Single Malt Whiskies as well. 

Dewar’s Adds Honey to Scotch: Bacardi, in an attempt to woo the younger generation, unveiled a brand called Dewar’s Highlander Honey, which the company describes as a Scotch whisky “infused with Scottish heather honey filtered through oak cask wood.” The Scotch Whisky Association argues that this Dewar’s product is not Scotch whisky and that under EU law, it has to be sold under the sales description ‘Spirit Drink’. The label may refer to Scotch whisky as one of its constituents.

The first malt whisky ever to be exported to Australia was the Dalmore, in 1870. 

The Dalmore is the only distillery permitted to source Matusalem sherry wood casks for finishing its single malt at Gonzalez Byass.

Cadenhead’s Whisky Shop on Canongate, when owned by the Cadenhead family, was Scotland’s oldest independent bottler till taken over by J & A Mitchell & Co. Ltd. in 1972. The name remains unchanged, even though Mitchell & Co bottle and sell Springbank, Longrow and Hazelburn Single Malt whiskies, along with Campbeltown Loch and Mitchell's 12 year old. Its unique selling point is that customers can have a bottle poured straight from a cask and labelled with a person’s name. When sealed it has a label with the ‘born on date’, as whisky stops aging as soon as it leaves the wooden barrel so each bottle is a unique blend.

The source of the name Auchentoshan is Gaelic. It means 'corner of the field'. 

Auchentoshan was probably started by Irish settlers, led by the MacBeathas.

Some sources claim that these Irish whisky distillers brought the Irish custom of triple distillation with them. Auchentoshan uses triple distillation.

Antique records from the year 1800 mention an (illegal) Duntocher distillery, which may have been a predecessor to the legal Auchentoshan distillery. A license for distillation was obtained in 1823.

The ‘e’ in whiskey: Scotch whisky is always spelled without an ‘e’? Most other nations such as United States and Ireland call their similar spirits Whiskey. Be sure you never add the ‘e’ when writing to a Scotsman. A very simple way to remember the spelling: if it comes from a country without an ‘e’ in its spelling, then its spelt Whisky. (e.g., Scotland, Japan, India, Canada, etc.).

Bruichladdich’s The Octomore 08.3 is “the most heavily peated Octomore to date”, containing barley peated to 309 ppm. Octomore 2009 Edition 06.3, peating level is 258 ppm. 

The Macallan claims that it has achieved success and fame through its ‘Six Pillars’, viz., Spiritual Home, Curiously Small Stills, Finest Cut, Exceptional Oak Casks, Natural Color and The Macallan itself.  It has released five expressions in honor of its pillars so far, starting in 2005; the 50, 55, 57, 60 and 62-year-old single malts in bespoke Lalique crystal. The 62nd was released on December 17, 2013 at a price of US$ 26,000.







Tuesday 28 February 2017

BLENDED MALT WHISKIES

AN EXCELLENT CHANGE: BLENDED MALTS

Blended malts are, as the name suggests, a combination of two or more single malt Scotch whiskies – unlike blends, there’s no grain whisky here. Instead, you have some of the most innovative Scotch whiskies around, from Islay-influenced smoke and seaweed to the typical Speyside character of rich, spiced fruit.

These whiskies are big business in Taiwan, which remains by far the world’s biggest blended malt market. There’s no limit to the number of single malts you can use in a blended malt: while Monkey Shoulder combines only three, Wemyss The Hive comprises no fewer than 16, many of them from Speyside. You might think you’re firmly rooted in Islay when tasting Peat Monster from Compass Box – but peated Speysider Ardmore is a crucial part of the mix. A very large percentage of these expressions are NAS.



Here is my order of priority. The Odyssey is far too expensive to buy, so it's your choice. A bottle every month or two would be fine if there is a well-stocked bar close by.

-Islay Pillaged Malt 2003, with Single Malt whiskies from Ardbeg, Bruichladdich,   Bowmore,  Bunnahabhain, Caol  Ila, Lagavulin & Laphroaig distilleries, bottled at   Bruichladdich.
-Celtic Pillage 2005, a cask strength vatting of 12 YO Jura and Bushmills   (Northern Ireland).
-Three Isles Classic Pillage, a 10 YO vatting of Ardbeg, Jura and Tobermory.
-Buchanan & Co's Strathconon 12-Year-Old.
-Ardbeg Serendipity NAS, marketed by Glenmorangie
-Chivas Regal Ultis NAS, with SMs from Allt a'Bhainne, Braeval, Longmorn, Strathisla and Tormore
-Johnnie Walker Island Green Label NAS
-Cardhow (Cardhu) 12 YO, run entirely by women. Production stopped in 2009
-Bowmore 12 YO Blended Malt Whisky
-Bell's 12 YO using SMs mainly from Blair Athol, Caol Ila and Glenkinchie
-Clan Denny, both versions, Sweetly Spiced and Heavily Peated
-Johnnie Walker Green Label 16 YO
-Famous Grouse Vintage Malt Whisky 1987
-Wemyss Peat Chimney 46% ABV with Islay Malts
-Angel's Nectar Rich Peat Edition with Highland Malts, NAS 46% ABV
-Highland Journey NAS from Hunter Laing 46.2% ABV Highland Malts
-Poit Dhubh 12 YO Uisge Beatha Albannach. An 8 YO is also available
-J & B Exception 12 YO using Speyside Malts
-Big Peat 54.6% ABV NAS, an all Islay BM with whiskies from Ardbeg, Bowmore,   Caol Ila and   Port Ellen
-Shackleton's Discovery NAS 47.3% ABV
-Compass Box Spice Tree Extravaganza NAS
-Glenleven 12 Year Old
-William Grant Ghosted Reserve 26 YO 42% ABV
-Compass Box The Peat Monster NAS 46% ABV
-Monkey Shoulder NAS with SMs from Kininvie, Glenfiddich and Balvenie
-Berry Bros & Rudd's Blue Hanger 11th Release NAS 45.6%
-Smokey Joe Islay Blended Malt Whisky NAS 46% ABV
-Sheep Dip 8 YO with 16 SMs from Whyte & Mackay


  

Friday 24 February 2017

The MacKinlay Whisky's Journey on Shackleton's Expedition

From The Ice Below Shackleton's Hut To Skilled Recreation:

This Is A Story To Savour In The Telling

46 Cases of Mackinlay's Rare Old Highland Malt

In June 1907, the Glen Mhor distillery in Inverness received an order from the famous explorer Ernest Shackleton for a total of 46 cases of Mackinlay's Rare Old Highland Malt – one of the more indulgent items included among the provisions designed to sustain his British Antarctic Expedition of 1907.

The Discovery

In February 2007, after almost a century entombed in thick ice beneath Shackleton's expedition hut in Antarctica, three crates of this long lost whisky were discovered by a team from the New Zealand Antarctic Heritage Trust. The team was carrying out a full programme of conservation work on the aging expedition hut at Cape Royds when they made their stunning discovery.

However, in line with international protocols agreed by the Antarctic Treaty Nations, the crates could not be removed from Antarctica unless it was for conservation or scientific reasons. The Press Release of Friday 5 February '10 can be read using this link.

In early 2010, one crate of the whisky was removed from the ice by the Antarctic Heritage Trust and flown directly back to Canterbury Museum for careful thawing and stabilisation. Eventually, this crate was returned – and became one of over 14,000 expedition artefacts which the New Zealand Antarctic Heritage Trust cares for across this frozen continent.

Mackinlay's Rare Old Highland Malt

In Canterbury Museum, the temporarily liberated crate of Mackinlay’s Rare Old Highland Malt was slowly defrosted in a purpose-built cool room. Over a two-week period in mid-2010, while captured in the increasing glare of worldwide media interest, the temperature of the crate itself raised extremely slowly from around -20ºC to 0ºC.

The team of conservators were able to examine the contents and were eventually delighted to recover 11 bottles, 10 of which are perfectly intact, still wrapped in protective paper and straw. With the whisky finally freed from the frozen crate, the museum conservators were able to complete their detailed analysis of the packaging, labels and bottles. However, the global spotlight was intensely focused on what these precious artefact bottles contain – a Highland malt whisky that was already well over 100 years old.

Indeed, never before in the history of whisky experts had access to a century old bottle of whisky that had been stored in a natural fridge well beyond human reach. So it was arguably only a slight exaggeration when this rare and valuable malt was described as ‘a gift from heaven for whisky lovers’ by Richard Paterson, Master Blender at Whyte & Mackay, the owners of the Mackinlay brand. And, with the bottles now ice-free, plans were made to undertake an analysis of the whisky so that it could be re-created in all its long-lost glory.  

The Return Journey

In January 2011 three bottles of the Mackinlay’s whisky finally began their return journey to the Highlands of Scotland. The bottles were deemed so rare that the Antarctic Heritage Trust refused to let them travel unaccompanied or in the hold of a plane. So they were personally collected by Whyte & Mackay company owner, Dr Vijay Mallya, and flown back to Scotland onboard his private jet.

Arriving home in Scotland, for the first time in more than 100 years, the whisky was transported to W&M’s Invergordon Spirit Laboratory for detailed scientific analysis. Richard Paterson, and his expert team led by Dr James Pryde, spent several weeks in the laboratory nosing, tasting and deconstructing the whisky to reveal its true heritage.

February 2011: Analysis

The analysis of the whisky first determines its strength at 47.3% alc./vol. The team described the whisky as light honey in colour, straw gold with shimmering highlights, and with an aroma that is soft, elegant and refined on the nose. Indeed, detailed nosing revealed delicate aromas of crushed apple, pear and fresh pineapple with notes of oak shavings, smoke and hints of buttery vanilla, creamy caramel and nutmeg. And, finally, the tasting revealed a spirit that has plenty of impact on the palate; a tantalising array of flavours that is both harmonious and exhilarating.

Analysis of the cask extractives indicated that the spirit was matured in American white oak sherry casks, while testing of the phenol content, which was lighter than expected for a whisky of this period, revealed that the peat used for the malting originated in the Orkney Islands.

Indeed, documentary evidence supports this, recording the supply of peat to both Glen Mhor and Glen Albyn distilleries in Inverness from the Isle of Eday in Orkney during the early 1900s. Final examination of each bottle delivered almost identical spirit profiles, suggesting that these far-travelled bottles may be representative of all whisky made at Glen Mhor.



Mackinlay’s Shackleton Rare Old Highland Malt - The Journey

MACKINLAY'S THE JOURNEY BOTTLING NOTE

The 2007 discovery of whisky left in Antarctica by Sir Ernest Shackleton during his famous expedition in the early 1900s led to Richard 'The Nose' Paterson using all his skill and experience to recreate this historic whisky, raising £250,000 for the Antarctic Heritage Trust in the process.

Approached by the charity and Alexandra Shackleton (Ernest's grand-daughter) to produce a second edition of his blended malt to coincide with Tim Jarvis' Shackleton Epic (the first authentic re-enactment of Shackleton's extraordinary Antarctic survival journey of 1916), how could Paterson refuse?

Digging out another rare cask of Glen Mhor (an even older one, this time from 1980), as well as some heavily-peated Dalmore(!), he once again recreated the Shackleton whisky, also using malts from Glenfarclas, Mannochmore, Tamnavulin, Ben Nevis, Aultmore, Fettercairn, Pulteney and Jura.

The resulting masterpiece of blending offers something different, whilst clearly coming from the same lineage as his first lovingly recreated malt. A new and critically-acclaimed interpretation of a truly classic whisky.



Thursday 23 February 2017

PAUL JOHN'S SINGLE MALTS FROM GOA

World Class Single Malts From India

India produces two well-known Single Malt Whiskies that are in demand globally. They come from the Amrut and Paul John Distilleries and are so named. We were lucky to get the former at Rs. 1475/- (US$21.70) per 750 ml bottle, at 43% ABV or 75 proof. The latter is not as easy to obtain and costs a fair amount. There are numerous versions, all NAS (No Age Statement) and at much stronger ratings, like 55% ABV. That said, a few expressions are available at 46% ABV, but not as classy as the stronger versions.

Paul John Distilleries are based in the Cuncolim Industrial Estate, South Goa, an area subject to very high day temperatures and intense humidity. This raises the Angels' share to as much as 10-12% and no barrel under maturation can withstand such high losses per year. Paul John whiskies are mostly in the 4-7 year range, with the odd 3 and 9-year old.

Paul John whiskies are made from only Indian ingredients. They use six-row barley, unlike Scotch whiskies that are made from two-row barley which has very high carbohydrate but low protein content. Six-row barley offers a distinct tannic character to the spirit. The alcohol yield is also much lower.

At Paul John, after grinding where the malted barley is mashed into coarse grist, the three-stage hot water wort creation process is replaced by a single hot water process (70° C). They use eight stainless steel washbacks that hold about 18,000 litres of wort each. They cannot use wooden washbacks as is done in Scottish distilleries because the high humidity and proximity to sea causes the wood to rot, requiring continuous maintenance. 

The only import is of two types of Scottish peat, used specifically for kilning (heating) and to increase the phenolic content of the spirit. One type comes from Aberdeen which has a marine and grassy character and the other is from Islay which has obvious high phenolic properties. The raw spirit is made using both these peats and blended according to the desired recipe. 

In India, Customs officers go by the final bottling rather than the spirit output at the distillation point. The spirit safe is thus kept unlocked. This helps the blender to gain a real feel of the cut he is going to make. The entire middle cut is done by actual organoleptic senses and by constant monitoring. Paul John extracts the middle cut at 63.5%. In Scottish distilleries, the human element has been gradually removed and the middle cut is made by computer diktats re timing and monitored by a spirit meter. 

Paul John produces malt whiskies matured only in imported American Oak barrels and stored in two warehouses, with a total capacity of 10,000 casks. Bottling is done in situ and the whiskies are not chill filtered.

Tasting Notes: Some Paul John Whiskies


Paul John, Edited, 46%, NAS– Gentle on the nose. You get barley sugars but with hints of orange marmalade and peat. The peat is not blatant, but gentle, suggesting that the malting was done with Aberdeen peat. After some time you get green capsicum, wet chalk and vanilla. On the palate, it is much rounder and peat reappears with sweet and honey flavours. Medium finish. 

Paul John, Classic, c.s 55.2%, NAS – On the nose you get those complexities immediately. Lots of sugars and tannins mistaking it to be a sherried whisky. Some lactones with a feel like asafoetida followed by a mix of citrus notes. On the palate it is dry and you get some tannins with a wholesome feeling of a full bodied whisky. Very sweet. Finishes long with a mix of spices.

Paul John, Bold, 46%, NAS – On the nose you get some smoke with definite peat notes. Vanilla and lemon, spices with green peppers. On the palate it is very sweet. Finishes with long peaty notes.

Paul John, Peated, c.s 55.5%, NAS – Bonfire smoke and peat. Sweet and honeyed and mild medicinal notes like any Islay whisky. Lots of complexities, green grass juices, vanilla and citrus notes. On the palate you get those dry tannins but the mouthfeel is very full and wholesome. Sweet and syrupy. Finishes very long with a satisfying feeling. 

Tasting Notes by Krishna Nukala