THE TOP FIVE JAPANESE WHISKIES

LEADING 12 YO JAPANESE WHISKIES IN THE WORLD

The top five of Japan’s 12-year-old whiskies are: Yamazaki, Hakushu, Nikka Taketsuru, Nikka Miyagikyo and Hibiki. Drink them as you like, but note that the Japanese typically add a dash (or a lot) of water. I use between 5 and 10 drops of water, using a pipette or drinking straw. I like Yamazaki the most.I have included the Yoichi 10-year-old as a very close 6th.

                                                            

1. Suntory Yamazaki

The Sweetest:

The first seriously marketed whisky from the distillery that started it all: Yamazaki 12-year-old.

Yamazaki Distilley is in southwestern Kyoto at the foot of Mt.Tennozan. It has access to high-quality water, which is even mentioned in the Man'yoshu, the ancient anthology of Japanese poetry, and the specific natural environment vital in whisky-making. Whisky-making at Yamazaki Distillery is notable for its wide variety of whiskies, unique at a global level. For example, they select among wooden and stainless steel washbacks in the fermentation process, between different sizes and shapes of pot stills in the distillation process, and between various kinds of casks in the maturation process, creating a highly diverse variety of whiskies at every step of the process from mashing through fermentation, distillation, and maturation.

The various whiskies matured in casks pass into the care of the blenders. The blenders evaluate the extent of maturation of whisky in each cask and carefully select and determine the combination of whiskies that will best be vatted into a final product with exactly the right characteristics. They taste up to two or three hundred types of whisky a day, and predict when each cask will be at its best and when it should be used.

These skillful craftsmen also manage their collection of whiskies by foreseeing what kind of whiskies will be needed in the future. Given the long time required from mashing until the product is ready, whisky-making can be considered "collaborative work between blenders of the past, present, and future." In 2003, the Yamazaki 12 Years Old single malt whisky produced at Yamazaki Distillery became the first Japanese whisky to win the gold medal at the ISC (International Spirits Challenge)-a highly authoritative spirits competition in the world. Suntory has continued to win awards for its whiskies, earning global recognition for Japanese whisky.

This is the classic, and for good reason. It’s light. It’s floral. It’s delicious. For what you’re getting, it’s reasonably priced. On the nose, one gets hints of zest and honey, and the palate, smooth and sweet, brings flavors of citrus with some vanilla oakiness. If you have a snobbish friend who insists on Scotch, a glass of Yamazaki should be the first class in a course of conversion to the Japanese path. 

2. Suntory Hakushu

The Smokiest:

Hakushu Distillery was established in 1973. It is located in the foothills of Mt. Kaikomagatake in Japan's Southern Alps, where cool, clear waters flow through a pristine forest environment. Hakushu is the verdant single malt Japanese whisky born in Suntory's Hakushu Distillery. Made from water with a rare softness and maturing in a lush forested microclimate, Hakushu's renowned single malt Japanese whiskies are blessed by the region's ever-changing seasons—each leaving their own verdant signature. Refreshingly herbal and gently smoky, Hakushu is embraced as the intriguing single malt Japanese whisky from the award-winning House of Suntory Whisky.

Hakushu, Suntory’s third American release, comes in a green bottle (a rarity among most clear-bottled Japanese whiskies) that hints at its “green” flavor profile: leaves and fruits, particularly pear. Marketed as the “fresh” whisky, Hakushu 12-year-old comes from the forests at the base of the Southern Japanese Alps. However, you’d be forgiven if you mistake this for an Islay malt. Even thoroughbred tasters often fail to separate the two. The use of peated barley, imported from Scotland, gives the whisky a smoky nose that suggests seaside origins; then you taste the delicate whisky, and find yourself transported to the forests of Japan.

A remarkable expression of Japanese whisky crafted with meticulous attention to detail. This exquisite 12-year-old single malt from the renowned Suntory distillery embodies the spirit of nature, with each sip transporting you to the untouched forests of Japan's Southern Alps. Carefully selected and aged in traditional casks, this whisky offers a harmonious balance of flavours that captivate the senses. The nose is greeted by a fresh and invigorating bouquet, reminiscent of lush green forests, with delicate notes of citrus, pear, and a hint of mint. As it glides across the palate, a gentle sweetness emerges, accompanied by vibrant fruity tones and the subtle presence of oak.

A remarkable expression of Japanese whisky crafted with meticulous attention to detail. This exquisite 12-year-old single malt from the renowned Suntory distillery embodies the spirit of nature, with each sip transporting you to the untouched forests of Japan's Southern Alps. Carefully selected and aged in traditional casks, this whisky offers a harmonious balance of flavours that captivate the senses. The nose is greeted by a fresh and invigorating bouquet, reminiscent of lush green forests, with delicate notes of citrus, pear, and a hint of mint. As it glides across the palate, a gentle sweetness emerges, accompanied by vibrant fruity tones and the subtle presence of oak.

This whisky boasts a smooth and refined finish that lingers, leaving a satisfying warmth that resonates long after the last sip. Its craftsmanship and artistry have earned it accolades from whisky enthusiasts worldwide, cementing its place as a beloved addition to any connoisseur's collection. Whether you are a seasoned whisky aficionado or new to the world of Japanese whisky, Hakushu 12YO single malt is an exceptional choice that showcases the mastery of Suntory's distillation techniques. Indulge in this unparalleled sensory experience and discover the magic of Hakushu.

This whisky boasts a smooth and refined finish that lingers, leaving a satisfying warmth that resonates long after the last sip. Its craftsmanship and artistry have earned it accolades from whisky enthusiasts worldwide, cementing its place as a beloved addition to any connoisseur's collection. Whether you are a seasoned whisky aficionado or new to the world of Japanese whisky, Hakushu 12YO single malt is an exceptional choice that showcases the mastery of Suntory's distillation techniques. Indulge in this unparalleled sensory experience and discover the magic of Hakushu.

3. Nikka Miyagikyo Single Malt 45% ABV 700/ 750ml

The Most Surprising:

Miyagikyo Single Malt is a range of single malt expressions from the Miyagikyo Distillery. Nikka's founder Masataka Taketsuru chose a valley in the Miyagi prefecture as the site for his second distillery, and started its operation in 1969. He aimed to make a complete contrast between the two distilleries, Miyagikyo and Yoichi, with different natural environments and production methods.

Miyagikyo malts are described as elegant and fruity. Made from light peated and non-peated malted barley, whiskies distilled in pot stills heated by indirect steam express a signature fruitiness and delicate mouthfeel. This no-age-statement version was released in 2016 as a permanent product that showcases the elegant style of Miyagikyo malts, when all age-statements were discontinued. This bottling has estery aromas generated by carefully selected yeast strains along with distinctive Sherry cask influence.

When you nose this whisky, it releases little by the way of aroma. It takes ten minutes to settle and a second sniff yields heavy doses of toffee and caramel. The taste — full of strong, sweet vanilla — mimicks the nose’s form: slow to build, but impressive at its peak.Very classy finish.

4. Nikka Taketsuru Pure Malt

The Smoothest:

This is a signature label in honour of Nikka's founder Masataka Taketsuru, the first Japanese who mastered whisky-making in Scotland and brought this expertise back to Japan. While being a disciplined craftsman, he was also a person of curiosity and open-mindedness. This is a tribute to Masataka from his successors, highlighting a perfect balance with complexity achieved by precise blending inherited from the founder.

Interestingly, this is a vatted malt (a blend of single malts) and not blended whisky, released for the first time just last year. It combines 12-year-old malts from Nikka’s Yoichi and Miyagikyo distilleries. The darkest of the five whiskies (though still light, as far as whiskies go), the Taketsuru wows your taste with its even balance and smooth finish.

Nikka Taketsuru Pure Malt leads with creamy honey and vanilla, bright pear / pineapple / starfruit, toasted biscuit and roasted oak, a very faint hint of smoke, and subtle dark fruit that’s easy to miss. It’s generally a bright, sweet, and vibrantly fruity malt whisky that smell-wise reminds me most of Miyagikyo. However, honey dominates the palate — so much so, in fact, that you feel like you are drinking straight from a honeycomb.

After swirling there’s a mix of creamy honey, vanilla, and roasted grains, followed by pear, starfruit, grapefruit, roasted oak, cinnamon, and hints of coffee grounds. None of that is surprising because Miyagikyo and Yoichi are distilled exactly the same way. And just like Yoichi, there’s that gentle hint of smoke that was expected to be stronger. Like Miyagikyo, the dark fruit / date is easy to miss. The heat has a bigger presence than it should. Nikka Taketsuru Pure Malt Whisky smells nice, but falls short of richness and depth because it’s still young.

5. Suntory Hibiki

The Sexiest Bottle

Housed in a distinct, multi-faceted, corked (!) bottle, or decanter, this Suntory whisky looks like something pulled from Noel’s personal bar. Although the nose is a bit sharp, the Hibiki gains points for using whisky aged in Mizunara, a rare Japanese oak, as well as casks formerly used to hold Japanese plum liqueur. Like the Nikka Miyagikyo, the Hibiki is rich and thick, bordering on syrupy. The taste mirrors the honey and vanilla of other offerings, but with an oily texture and small notes of fruit.

Hibiki is the paragon of harmony—launched in 1989 to commemorate Suntory's philosophy of living in harmony with people and nature. The name Hibiki means "resonance" in Japanese. Suntory Whisky Hibiki resonates with the subtleties of nature infused by the 24 seasons of Japan's traditional calendar and reflected in the 24 facets of its bottle's design. Hibiki is a blend that is embraced as an icon of Japanese luxury from the award-winning House of Suntory Whisky.

Inspired by the subtleties of Japanese seasons and mastered by Suntory's Art of Blending, Hibiki Japanese Harmony is a noble and meticulous blended whisky. American White Oak malt whiskies create a solid base. The rare Mizunara (Japanese oak) and sherry cask malt whiskies are the dressing. The smoky malt whiskies enact as subtle accents to create depth and further complexity. Grain whiskies from Suntory's Chita distillery act as the dashi, or broth, to complete the personality of the malt whiskies and enhance their overall harmony. Hibiki Japanese Harmony is extremely versatile.

Whether enjoyed neat, on the rocks, blended with water or mixed as a cocktail, the harmony of this blend remains complete. It is a delicately balanced, smooth and subtly sweet blended whisky that enhances any dining experience. Luminous and delicate, it promotes a transparency that unveils complexity. Hibiki Harmony is best enjoyed with a hand-carved ice ball for the ultimate Japanese whisky experience. Hibiki is embraced as the paragon of the Art of Japanese Whisky. It is not only Japan's most highly awarded blended whisky, but also among the most and honored whiskies in the world.

Colour: Amber.
Nose: Rose, lychee, hint of rosemary, mature woodiness, sandalwood.
Palate: Honey-like sweetness, candied orange peel, white chocolate.
Finish: Subtle, tender long finish, with hint of Mizunara oak.

6. Yoichi 10 YO

A very well made single malt from Japan, Yoichi is the jewel in Nikka's crown for a 10 year old.

This is a single malt from Nikka’s first distillery established in 1934. The founder Masataka Taketsuru chose Yoichi in Hokkaido because of the similar environmental conditions to Scotland, where he learned whisky-making. Along with Yoichi’s original smokiness, this 10-year-old version offers round maturity generated over years integrated with distinctive peaty, well-balanced woody and delicate herbaceous notes.

Nikka has finally brought back age-stated Japanese whiskey with Yoichi 10 Year Single Malt. The first release, ~late 2022, of around 10,000 bottles was only sold in Japan, but this is a second larger batch for Japan, the US, and other markets. The bad news though is that it’s far from affordable at US$150-250.

The Yoichi distillery is located in a secluded area about 1 hour west of Sapporo, the largest city in Hokkaido. It’s the northern-most part of Japan, so it’s out of the way for many travellers, but it shouldn’t be overlooked. Since the distillery is so far north, it also experiences long and intense winters, with Sapporo city no stranger to 18-24 inches of snow. As a result, those intense winters will have an impact on how Nikka Yoichi Single Malt ages. Ageing will be very slow during the long colder season from late fall into early spring, with a huge temperature swing into the summer that’s probably more like Kentucky than Scotland.

Nose: At first, bright floral honey, honeysuckle, cantaloupe, Asian pear, green grape, pineapple, fennel, and just a little roasted oak, roasted grain, dried mushroom, dark chocolate, and mint. Yoichi 10 Year smells a lot like aged Fino sherry (minus any nuttiness) or aged white wine. Yoichi is peated, but it’s faint at best. The viscosity and level of fragrance are actually really good for 45% ABV. It has the 45% ABV heat but low 50% density.

Palate: The flavours start with honey, honeysuckle, pear, pineapple, green grape, gentle smoke and fungal peat, roasted oak, mint, and fennel. Yoichi 10 Year is bright, fruity, and tropical at first, but the smoke and peat comes out a little bit for that peaty mist around the tropicality. The peat isn’t subtle, but it’s also not big and burly. Yoichi 10 Year tastes really good and feels like an extra-aged Fino sherry. The viscosity and actually good mouthfeel are pleasant surprises too, and this could be truly special at ~50% ABV.

Finish: The finish starts with honey, pineapple, fennel, and smoke with more lingering light smoke, mint, and green grape skins. After “chewing”, it leaves honey, green grape, starfruit, and a sweet smoke with lingering smoky starfruit, pineapple, and mint. Pleasant but mild.