THE GLENLIVET CIPHER MYSTERY

 PAST MASTERS: THE GLENLIVET CIPHER

The Glenlivet Cipher was a roaring success in 2016, bottled in what was one of the packaging benchmarks of the year. The Glenlivet Cipher was simply stunning. The detailing, the tactility, and the opaque black glass screamed ‘special’ and made a beautiful gift or addition to any whisky cabinet. It was followed by The Glenlivet Code, created in much the same way the next year, primarily headed westwards. The first in the series was way back in 2013, The Glenlivet Alpha. And that's not all. The Glenlivet Enigma followed at cask strength 60.6% ABV. We’ll return to these four expressions later.

SCOTCH WHISKY TRENDS

The Four Trends in The Scotch Whisky Market Today

In the last weekend of September 2022, whisky fans descended upon the London Whisky Show, showcasing the theme ‘The Future of Whisky’. Through masterclasses, workshops, and talks it became clear that the industry is heading in some new and fascinating directions, which inevitably involves new and (usually) exciting whisky releases. Here are some of the trends to watch out for as a result:

MAKING WHISKY ACCESSIBLE

The industry is eager to attract a new generation of drinkers. One result of this is new releases of budget-friendly malt whiskies promoted as ‘accessible’, easy and enjoyable to drink for a beginner while still retaining some degree of complexity. William Grant’s new Aerstone malts are a great example, as well as the new ‘Discover’ selection from the revamped Gordon & Macphail range.

THE BEGINNING OF A SCOTCH RYE CRAZE

As rye whisky in the United States enjoys a boom, Scotch whisky producers are beginning to experiment with rye whisky in production and maturation. The Glenmorangie Spios was aged entirely in American rye whisky casks, and some Johnnie Walker releases have also featured rye cask maturation. On the production side, a couple of distilleries are trying their hand at working with the notoriously tricky grain. Microdistillery Arbikie recently released a limited edition rye spirit (raising funds for charity), and Islay-based Bruichladdich began producing rye whisky with grain from the island. At the London whisky show, one of the highlights of the festival for me was that you could try for the first time ever the first Scottish rye whisky, made at the Inchdairnie distillery.

WATCH OUT FOR NEW MICRODISTILLERIES

Loads of new microdistilleries have been popping up across Scotland, and they are just now beginning to release new products. Though some of these can’t yet be legally called whisky, many of their first single malts will be on the market soon, and the whisky world will be watching their development closely.

For example, the Fife distilleries of Eden Mill and Kingsbarns have seen an enormous demand for their budding young malts, while Ncn’ean and Lindores have produced a new whisky/gin hybrid, infusing their malt spirit with botanicals until their stock ages long enough so it can legally be called ‘whisky’.

MORE MATURATION EXPERIMENTS

Scotch distilleries are incorporating more casks outside of the traditional bourbon or sherry into maturation. With the launch of its Captain’s Reserve a couple of months ago, Glenlivet may be the first Scotch whisky distillery to have a core range bottle involving Cognac maturation.

Whisky aged in wine and port casks is also not too hard to find these days. One interesting recent experiment was the Glenfiddich Winter Storm, aged in Canadian ice wine casks made from French oak. By bringing in new and unusual casks, distilleries are looking to stand out from what is ‘usually done', so these new releases often have a fair amount of promotion behind them too.

The industry certainly isn’t keeping still in any case, and innovation across distillation and maturation will mean that the range of flavours found in whisky will keep expanding. That is certainly something worth celebrating with a dram or few.

THE GLENLIVET CIPHER

The Glenlivet Cipher was a new limited edition single malt from the famous Speyside distillery and one with more than the usual sense of intrigue.  The Cipher was released with virtually no information attached except the legally required alcohol strength of 48% ABV,  similar to the Alpha release of 2013.  There were no tasting notes, no details of cask types or maturation (other than it was a unique combination never used for The Glenlivet before), no age statement and no indication of colour or style due to the striking black opaque bottle. The bottle and packaging gave clues of flavour and aroma but little else. Initially, there were mixed reactions, as could be expected. The naysayers called it another NAS bottling circumscribed by marketing tactics, whereas others praised it handsomely.  

The Glenlivet distillery, a Speysider close to the town of Ballindalloch in the scenic Livet Glen was founded in 1824 by George Smith, whose signature still appears on the labels and packaging.  The distillery was the first in the Speyside region to be granted a distilling license under the Parliamentary Excise Act, which was brought in one year earlier. The Glenlivet is now one of Scotland's largest distilleries with an annual production of 10 million litres and is currently owned by Pernod Ricard, who took control in 2001.  It also became the biggest-selling Scotch single malt in mid-2015, when it finally overtook long-time leader Glenfiddich, only to see Glenfiddich forge ahead the next year. Their rivalry continues unabated, both running neck and neck.

The unique thing about the Cipher release was the interactive digital element connected to it.  This allowed you to determine and create your own tasting notes after sampling the whisky.  Visiting cipher.theglenlivet.com and then creating your own aroma and flavour profiles really got you to analyse the whisky both on the nose and palate.

Once you chose your six aroma and flavour characteristics, the results were collated into a graphic cipher and your selections compared to those of the exact flavour profile Master Distiller Alan Winchester had created to reveal how close you were. You could share across various social media platforms using #TheGlenlivetCipher and @TheGlenlivet.

The Glenlivet Cipher was available from selected specialist retailers across 25 world markets including Canada, Taiwan and the UK. The recommended retail price was £85 or $US120. Harrods marked it at £110.

                             

MY TASTING NOTES

The colour is deep gold with a hint of amber and the nose expresses a lovely mix of sweet and fruity aromas.  The combination of caramel and honey with fresh green apple and pear is very promising.  This is supported by further aromas of almonds and delicate malted cereals along with hints of treacle, boiled fruit sweets and cinnamon.

On the palate, this whisky feels soft and luxurious.  The obvious sweetness and fruitiness from the nose are immediately evident and again manifest themselves as a mix of honey, caramel and green fruits.  However, these evolve to become more complex - the honey becomes a honeycomb and combines with a hint of chocolate to be reminiscent of Crunchie bars, while the green fruits become more stewed and seasoned with cinnamon and clove-like spices.  Underneath is a further fruitiness with some dried pineapple and apricot present, along with a hint of dark treacle and gingerbread. A late hit of sugary fudge, bitter orange and something nutty round things off.

The finish is long and sweet, then drier and spicier as the sweetness goes.  The caramel and honeycomb fade first, then the green and tropical fruits.  This leaves a distinct malted barley note and the earthy and wood spices, especially the cinnamon and ginger, to linger.

THE VERDICT

The Cipher was a delicious whisky from The Glenlivet.  It had a lovely softness and richness to it and a good balance of sweet and fruity flavours.  This made it very easy to drink but with plenty of character and depth.  The lack of information only added to the intrigue and natural curiosity that made you try to guess the composition of the casks for maturation. Very nice and very enjoyable.

THE GLENLIVET CODE

As a follow-up to its Cipher, Glenlivet introduced The Glenlivet Code, biased primarily towards the USA. Though everyone’s a fan of transparency, whisky drinkers also love a good mystery. The Glenlivet distillery indulged patrons with their new whisky in 2018, The Glenlivet Code, which intentionally kept its composition a secret.

The Glenlivet took whisky enthusiasts on a journey of discovery, while also putting their single malt knowledge to the test with the U.S. launch of limited-edition The Glenlivet Code, a mysterious single malt introduced without cask information or tasting notes. Inspired by the iconic British Code breakers, the latest innovation is a unique combination of flavours that will measure the senses of even the most discerning whisky drinker by entering a digital tasting experience where they will be challenged to “Unlock the Taste” of the mystery whisky.

The global launch for The Glenlivet Code was supported by the innovative digital campaign to cement The Glenlivet’s role as the definitive Speyside single malt, renowned for its heritage as an authority within the single malts category. Maintaining this exceptional quality that The Glenlivet is famed for, The Glenlivet Code embodies the brand’s smooth and fruity tasting notes with some additional twists to unlock. The mystery whisky is crafted from specially selected casks to produce a new, never-before-created single malt scotch whisky.

With The Glenlivet Code, Master Distiller Alan Winchester had a unique opportunity to create a whisky that has never been crafted before, using new casks and techniques to push the boundaries of what people expect from The Glenlivet. The limited edition is a labyrinth of flavours that will test the senses of even the most discerning whisky drinker and consumers worldwide were invited to take on the ultimate challenge by unlocking its mystery taste. The interactive experience will allow whisky enthusiasts at all levels to build their knowledge of the category while also developing a deeper understanding of The Glenlivet.

To begin the decoding challenge, consumers had to scan a code on the back of The Glenlivet Code bottle carton using the Shazam app to enter a virtual underground room. There, they were greeted by a hologram of Winchester, who challenged them to decode the taste of the liquid by selecting four aromas for the nose and four flavours for the palate from several possible combinations.

After decoding the flavours of the new whisky, participants were given a score which they could post on their social channels to see how they ranked against their peers. The official tasting notes were revealed at the end of the year to give consumers the time to discover and enjoy the liquid themselves.

Olfactory systems and palates vary greatly - indeed, some new research suggested that the female olfactory system is developed to such an extent (over that of men) that tulip-shaped glasses were felt to be disadvantageous to them. Breaking Glenlivet Code is not about trying to accurately calculate/guess a correct answer – in essence, you’re simply attempting to match someone else’s (Master Distiller Alan Winchester) interpretation of aromas and flavours. Likewise, the actual options presented when cracking the code are part canny, part frustrating – both apple and pear are presented in the same ‘module’ – you can only pick one, but I detected both. Decisions, decisions. Nevertheless, the experience is quite fun, and, it might get a few usually non-analytical drinkers thinking more about the contents of their glass which would be no bad thing.

Nose: Expressive bright fruitiness - ripe apples and pears dance along with zesty oranges and poached apricots. Toffee, honeyed cereals and high-quality chocolate add both depth and additional sweetness. Running throughout are prominent baking spices – cinnamon and ginger. In the background, delicate charred oak and some floralness from cut garden stems. Dilution heightens the orange component, adding juicy tangerines, whilst also expanding the growing fruit salad to include baked peaches.

Taste: The arrival has body and plenty of fruit-forward character – orange first – juicy and zesty, followed swiftly by fresh apple and spit-roasted pineapple. Everything is bright and zingy, with a great balance between sweetness and sharpness. Once again, fruits are supported by heady spicing – ginger, nutmeg and cinnamon. The back palate reveals a more oaky side and has a pleasant progressive dryness. The addition of water turns the spice levels down a notch, highlighting the tropical flavours of banana and mango, whilst revealing some milk chocolate and vanilla cream.

Finish: Medium in length with apple sweetness tempering the drying oak and its ginger/nutmeg spiciness. The reduction here brings out some tart lemon curd and vanilla custard.

The Glenlivet Code, like the previous Cipher, is an intriguing idea and a well-executed one at that. They both allow consumers to interact with a brand in a way that we cannot remember seeing before. The intrigue is added to by the fact that there is no information given which naturally leads to questions being asked. The Glenlivet Code is a well-composed, well-balanced whisky that still retains a discernible level of distillery character. Whilst the actual cask composition remains a fun mystery, from my experience with it, I’d not be surprised if there was a parcel of Madeira cask maturation here (zesty orange aromas/flavours), built on a base of 1st fill ex-bourbon (bright, ripe orchard fruits). But, regardless of any online codebreaking, this bottling stands on its own merits as a tasty extension of the Glenlivet range. Should you choose to take The Glenlivet Code challenge, expect to shell out around $120 for this 48% ABV single malt whisky.

The Glenlivet Code revelation. At the end of 2018, the mysterious mix of barrels behind The Glenlivet Code was finally revealed as a sophisticated Single Malt Scotch Whisky matured in a mixture of America Oak barrels and finished in ex-Canadian first fill Rye barrels.

                

THE GLENLIVET ALPHA

The Glenlivet had made whisky history in 2013 by releasing a mysterious limited edition expression without an age statement, cask information or tasting notes in a completely opaque bottle, The Glenlivet Alpha. It is the first whisky released without details of age, colour, cask or taste. 

The Glenlivet Alpha was described as a “blank canvas”, a single malt designed to challenge consumers to develop their own perceptions of the whisky without being influenced by age, colour or cask. Just 3,500 bottles of the 50% ABV expression have been released to 15 global markets, including the US, UK, Taiwan and France, targeted predominantly at existing The Glenlivet fans and single malt Scotch enthusiasts.

A teaser campaign ran across social media and digital, aiding consumers to develop their own tasting notes and discover the elements that have formed Alpha. Purchasers of the whisky only had a month, however, until master distiller Alan Winchester revealed all on 3 June via a global broadcast to The Glenlivet fans on the brand’s website and Facebook page.

The only element that will never be revealed is the whisky’s age, which according to Scotch Whisky Association guidelines, can never be disclaimed as it’s not printed on the label. However, Nikki Burgess, international brand director for The Glenlivet, revealed that Alpha contains “some very good whiskies”. They could not talk about the age though it was a good product due to the SWA guidelines; because it wasn’t on the bottle, it couldn’t be revealed afterwards. The ABV was 50%. Subsequent bottles would hold whiskies at 48%.

The new release is more an attempt to communicate the brand’s signature style with consumers, than simply a marketing initiative. It is known that single malt fans are really into The Glenlivet and are dying to know more, so this is a way for the makers being able to have more of a conversation rather than downloading messages. There are only 3,500 bottles worldwide so the objective isn’t a massive revenue gain either; it’s about building more of a relationship with people around the brand.

They did consider the age statement debate and whether to release a statement but in the spirit of the whole campaign, which is about people decoding it for themselves, it would have actually defeated the object of what they were trying to do. Age is important; it’s one of the key important factors in knowing what you’re choosing. A large number of Glenlivet’s products do have an age statement but not everything does because they don’t believe it’s only about that one factor. When it comes to creating a whisky, everything is important.

When consumers come to choosing a whisky, age, colour and branding all play a part, including where it sits on the shelf, whether they’ve heard of the brand before, the packaging, and the story on the back of the pack. The Glenlivet Alpha is a blank canvas; it’s not saying there is another way of judging how you should taste it, it’s giving you a completely blank canvas.

The clever, if somewhat annoying marketing campaign around this “mystery” expression culminated with the mystery behind The Glenlivet Alpha being revealed in a video of Master Distiller Alan Winchester, broadcast 6th June 2013 on www.theglenlivet.com. It turns out that the “mystery” was that this malt was aged in 2nd fill virgin oak casks – new casks were filled with malt whisky and then used again to age Alpha. In other words, they were casks that had been seasoned with malt whisky rather than the more usual bourbon or even sherry. As the high ABV at 50% and light haze displayed with water also suggested, Alpha was not chill filtered. Sadly, Alan did not reveal the age of this malt and as we all know, “age matters.”

Only circa 3,500 bottles of The Glenlivet Alpha were released worldwide with a price tag of circa £95.

               

THE Glenlivet Enigma

Enigma: mysterious, puzzling or difficult to understand.

Glenlivet’s Enigma comes in a beautiful matte black bottle with a puzzle display in the front. They encourage you to solve the puzzle and share it with them. It’s a no-age-statement whisky bottled at 60.6% ABV. It’s matured in American Oak barrels and finished in ex-Canadian first-fill Rye barrels. Sadly, it is meant for whisky lovers only in the USA.

Enigma, released in 2019, is the fourth bottle in the distillery’s mystery series, after Alpha (2013), Cipher (2015) and Code (2018). All other information is kept a secret, however, buyers can ‘unlock’ tasting cues by solving a digital crossword puzzle. Completion of the puzzle will also reward buyers with discounted delivery on their next purchase from reservebar.com.

Master Distiller Alan Winchester decided to give the hardcore Scotch heads something challenging - and delicious. Does the corn aroma mean it was aged in barrels that used to hold Canadian Whisky? Maybe there's a whiff of Madeira. Or is it Cognac? To be frank, I couldn't tell you more about this Whisky. Become a Scotch sleuth and figure it out.

Some drinkers say Enigma is a bit harsh; I didn’t find that to be the case. Yes, it’s a strong whisky since it’s bottled at cask strength, but harsh is a bit of a stretch. There is a slight burn and sweetness to this whisky that is fantastic. The burn is only momentary and then mellows out to notes of fruit and spices with hints of sweet marshmallows. Truthfully, I was really surprised at how much I enjoyed this whisky. I had it in my head that I wasn’t going to like it… which isn’t entirely inaccurate because I didn’t just like it, I loved it! I do however think it’s a pricey bottle and this may not be for everyone so, I’d suggest you try it before you buy.

NOSE:  The nose comes in with light notes of lemon, peach, heavy ethanol, and baked green apples.  The overall aroma also brings a smokiness that is quite enjoyable.

PALATE:   Whatever the nose was missing, the palate immediately makes up for it.  An absolute flavour blast of toasted almond, marshmallow, vanilla, lemon and tea.  As the bright flavours dance around your palate a light smoky spice plays hide and seek around your tongue.

FINISH: Long and bold, the smokiness of the palate immediately becomes strong and stronger as the sweets distance themselves.   Along with the smoky spice, hints of creme brulee, cinnamon, and marzipan coat your tongue with an intense spice on your tongue.

VALUE: For ~$110 this bottle is worth every penny.  From start to finish, this bottle is an absolute rollercoaster of heat, spice, and sweets.

 

                  

THE INFO-LESS QUARTET

DIAGEO FIRST AND LAST COLLECTIONS

 Diageo prima and ultima collection

Editions one and two

THE FIRST ONE: JULY 02 2020

Diageo has unveiled a new series of collectable single malt Scotch whiskies: the Prima & Ultima Whisky Collection. The eight bottles of Whisky that make up the collection are worth a staggering £20,000 ($24,600 USD).

Prima & Ultima mean the “first and last.” The collection comprises casks chosen from various Diageo distilleries, including Caol Ila, Lagavulin, Mortlach, Port Ellen, and the Singleton of Dufftown. Johnnie Walker's master blender Dr Jim Beveridge OBE chose the eight single vintage malts that make up the new series’ first range.

It’s understandable why some whisky lovers are beginning to feel a little cynical about the recent slew of old and rare releases from some of Scotch whisky’s most venerable distillers, boasting five- or even six-figure price tags. The industry’s current penchant for indulgent packaging and the tendency to see such releases as works of art has become a bone of contention for many, with calls from some quarters for a refocus on whisky as a drink, rather than an asset or investment.

This contemporary context makes it especially pleasing to be presented with a release quite as unquestionably ‘liquid-first’ as Diageo’s Prima & Ultima Collection. Perhaps more so than any other similar Scotch whisky release in recent years, these whiskies have been chosen on the unique merits of the spirit – not just the age statement. Each shines a light on distillery style, the development of and difference between various maturation techniques, and the careers of the industry’s most experienced whisky makers. The packaging, while undeniably premium and attractive, is nevertheless relatively simplistic and functional, playing second fiddle to the liquid inside. Whether it be a cask filled on the first day of distillation, a pioneering experiment, the end of a significant period in a distillery’s history or simply the last drops of something special, each bottle is a snapshot of a unique moment in time; for example, the Cragganmore was the last whisky Diageo ever made on coal-fired stills.

                   

The first Prima & Ultima Whisky Collection includes:

• Caol Ila 1984 (35 years old, 50.8% ABV, aged in a refill European oak butt, 499 bottles)
• Clynelish 1993 (26 years old, 49.8% ABV, aged in refill American oak casks, 941 bottles)
• Cragganmore 1971 (48 years old, 43.7% ABV, aged in a first-fill ex-Sherry butt, 352 bottles)
• Lagavulin 1991 (28 years old, 50.1% ABV, aged in refill American oak casks, 1,013 bottles)
• Mortlach 1994 (25 years old, 55.1% ABV, aged in a first-fill Pedro Ximénez cask and oloroso-seasoned European oak butt, 389 bottles)
• Port Ellen 1979 (40 years old, 51.2% ABV, aged in a refill European oak butt, 436 bottles)
• Singleton of Dufftown 1988 (30 years old, 48.8% ABV, aged in refill American oak casks, 469 bottles)
• Talisker 1988 (31 years old, 51.4% ABV, aged in refill American oak casks, 721 bottles)

Only 238 complete sets were available for release via online registration. The first set of the series was auctioned off for charity via Sotheby’s, featuring Beveridge’s signature on each bottle. 

THE SECOND ONE: AUGUST 05 2021

This release consists of eight limited single malt Scotch bottlings from the Auchroisk, Brora, Convalmore, Glendullan, Lagavulin, Linkwood, Mortlach, and Talisker distilleries. 

How limited, exactly? The expression with the largest batch of bottles clocks in at 1081. And the smallest is just a third of that, at 382 bottles. This is a selection of very special Single Malts – some that have never before seen the light of day and others that are the fleeting and final examples of their kind. Each bottling shares a glimpse into the history of Scotch Whisky.

Launched in mid-2020, the first Prima & Ultima Collection was curated by Johnnie Walker master blender Dr Jim Beveridge OBE and comprised eight whiskies which illustrated meaningful periods of the whisky maker’s time in the industry. For 2021, the arduous task of selecting the whiskies fell to 40-year Diageo veteran Maureen Robinson. The third line-up will be chosen by Diageo master blender Dr Craig Wilson. Bottled at natural cask strength, the second year’s whiskies tell the tale of Robinson’s personal journey from trainee to master blender and each is also in some way representative of a beginning or an end.

Today, whisky lovers take descriptors such as ‘green-grassy’, ‘nutty’, ‘fruity’, ‘waxy’ or ‘sulphury’ for granted, but this method for categorising malts is actually a relatively modern innovation – one which Robinson was involved in developing more than 25 years ago. Over the years, her team created different classifications [for spirit styles]. The old classifications used to be ‘first’, ‘second’ or ‘third’ Highlands, or Lowlands – it was all regional. In the early 90s they decided to do something that was more on the flavour spectrum, rather than regional. Take Convalmore’s waxiness: Convalmore is waxy, but you also had Craigellachie as waxy, Aberfeldy was waxy and Clynelish is waxy, but they were in three different regions. As a result, the team began looking at spirit from the perspective of flavour rather than region, and subsequently spent many months at Royal Lochnagar nosing hundreds of samples from different distilleries at different ages – five, eight, 12, and older – trying to find out where they all fit into a new flavour-first framework. The results of that work, which built on methodologies identified by the Scotch Whisky Research Institute in the 1970s, can now be felt industry-wide.

The trials looked at the impact of coastal maturation, new oak and re-charring. However, it’s the ‘ghost’ stock from closed distilleries, such as this second release’s Convalmore 1984, that will perhaps be the focus of collectors’ attention. The finite nature of such liquid makes releases like this particularly special, though in truth it seems Diageo has no immediate shortage of ‘unicorns’. They’ve still got stock of Glen Albyn, some of Glen Mhor, reassuring whisky lovers that Prima & Ultima will not be a short-lived series. The one we’ve probably got the least of is St Magdalene (Linlithgow) –only one cask of that treasure remains.

The chosen casks are actually stocks ringfenced for ‘something special’ over the course of many decades. As a result of this labour of love, the Prima & Ultima Collection has been developed with the whisky lover – perhaps even the geek – in mind. There’s something delightfully nerdy about the details which make each bottling unique, and the level of both historic and technical detail shared shows a clear understanding that the true value of old and rare whisky lies in its flavour, quality and place in whisky history – not in the baubles added into the box to pump up the price.

Indeed, though the cost is still beyond the reach of an average Joe, at a mean price of just under £3,000 per bottle, the collection is noteworthy for the restraint exhibited in setting the RRP. Some companies might have added an extra zero – Diageo didn’t. One can only hope that others might be led by this example, and that the ongoing tug-of-war between whisky lovers and economically motivated opportunists may yet be won by those for whom whisky is, ultimately, a drink to be enjoyed, not a commodity to be traded. Understood at its most basic level, Prima & Ultima has been made for those of us for whom whisky is the first, the last, and everything.

                   

The lineup, with the Primas in green and the Ultima in crimson, included: 

• Auchroisk 1974 (47 Years Old)
• Brora 1980 (40 Years Old)
• Convalmore 1984 (36 Years Old)
• The Singleton of Glendullan 1992 (28 Years Old)
• Lagavulin 1992 (28 Years Old)
• Linkwood 1981 (39 Years Old)
• Mortlach 1995 (25 Years Old)
• Talisker 1979 (41 Years Old

Price-wise, a full set of eight bottles cost a cool $39,500. For the remaining bottles that weren’t part of the 376 full sets, some were available to purchase from the Diageo Rare & Exceptional webstore, costing between $1000 to $9000, but went up to five figures for the Auchroisk, Brora and Talisker bottlings.

Set #1 was sold in an online auction hosted by Sotheby’s from 15th to 24th September. All proceeds from that auction went towards CARE International, a humanitarian charity. Each bottle in that first set was signed by Maureen Robinson, a Master Blender at Diageo.

The third set was sold this year and has been dealt with in full detail in my succeeding blog. 

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DIAGEO'S PRIMA AND ULTIMA COLLECTION

 Diageo’s Prima & Ultima Third Release

A MOMENT IN TIME

Prima & Ultima, a series of unique whiskies, the first or last of their kind, returns this year for its third instalment. Representing the almost lost, the historic, and the one-off, this year’s collection of eight rare and exceptional whiskies joins the illustrious sixteen from previous editions, adding new stories to this growing narrative of Scotland’s rich liquid history.

Prima & Ultima – meaning ‘first and last’ – showcases whiskies that are exactly that. The eight single malts in this year’s line-up were chosen by Diageo master blender Dr Craig Wilson. The whiskies include the final Brora bottling from 1981, and spirit from the last two casks of Port Ellen filled in 1980, as well as single malts from Royal Lochnagar, Cragganmore, Mannochmore, The Singleton of Glen Ord, Lagavulin and Talisker.

The Port Ellen 1980 is the oldest ever to be released from this distillery, taken from two casks filled the year the Queen visited the maltings in 1980. They matured exclusively on Islay, overlaying the whisky with notes of brine and seaweed. Meanwhile, the Brora 1981 is considered the rarest publicly available whisky from the distillery, and it shows a more fragrant, less peated side to the classic style.

The last Talisker casks from 1984 bring another maritime note to the collection, while two exploratory whiskies – a Royal Lochnagar from 1981, the result of an experiment to capture the angels’ share, and a Mannochmore from 1990 exposed to an unusual maturation process – capture the spirit of innovation.

The oldest whisky in this year’s selection comes from the oldest casks of Cragganmore in the reserves, while a 28-year-old Lagavulin 1993 celebrates the beginning of a golden era of awards for the celebrated Islay distillery. The Singleton of Glen Ord finishes the lineup with a dual claim to the Prima & Ultima title, being the first ever 1987 vintage release, taken from the last remaining casks of 1987.

                      

RARE AND EXCEPTIONAL

Due to their rarity, there were only 317 sets available for purchase, through Prima & Ultima agents at a recommended price of £36,500. Each set included a 20ml tasting sample alongside the full vintage bottlings. For the first time, a selection of individual bottles was also available to purchase offering the opportunity for enthusiasts, connoisseurs and collectors to experience whiskies that will never be made again.

TASTING NOTES

Royal Lochnagar 1981, 40-Year-Old 70 Cl 52.5% ABV

Bottled: 06.12.21 | Refill casks, refill American Oak Hogsheads No Bottled: 1,047 | Balmoral, Royal Deeside

Royal Lochnagar distillery is based on the Abergeldie Estate in Royal Deeside, Scotland, close to the mountain Lochnagar. The first Lochnagar distillery was burnt down in suspicious circumstances in 1824 and a replacement again burnt down in 1841. In 1845 John Begg built the "new" Lochnagar. The distillery was awarded its Royal Warrant in 1848 when John Begg invited Prince Albert to visit the distillery from the nearby Balmoral Castle, the Queen’s residence in the Highlands. This historic distillery on the edge of the Balmoral estate, produces whisky on a tiny scale despite being part of Diageo's large distillery portfolio. Much of its whisky is released as single malt, although it is also a key component of high-end limited quantity blended whiskies. This expression is the result of a mysterious experiment designed to reduce the angels’ share (evaporation) as the whisky matures, this is a delicate, fragrant, beautifully expressive single malt from one of Diageo’s smallest and most photogenic distilleries. Deep gold with copper lights in appearance, it has fine and lingering beading, multiple long legs. Mellow with light prickle and a medium body. Highly floral, with lavender, jasmine and bramble on the nose and ginger, honey and light oak tannin on the palate. This is a graceful, mature whisky of great freshness and vitality with flowery aromas, leading to a smooth creamy overall mouthfeel.

Cragganmore 1973, 48-Year-Old 70 Cl 44.8% ABV

Bottled: 06.12.21 | 3 refill American Oak Hogsheads | Number Bottled: 351 | Ballindalloch, Speyside

Cragganmore uses lightly peated malt, long fermentation, unusually shaped stills and worm tubs to produce a rich, meaty new make. The oldest release of Cragganmore to date, this was distilled soon after steam replaced coal in heating the stills. It’s as smooth as a velvet smoking jacket with complex aromas and unctuously fruity – almond oil, cassis, then peach and nectarine. The assertive oak brings a drying, nutty dimension alongside toffee, with always the tang of dark marmalade lurking in the background. This milestone in distilling gave birth to a new age in which craft and vision could walk hand in hand. A pathfinder for the smooth whiskies of the modern-day, the nose is more complex than usual with a palate that is sweet but pleasantly tart.

Appearance is a clear rich amber, polished mahogany. No beading. long legs. It has a very mellow nose with just a little prickle to start, which soon disappears. In the rich top notes, the immediate impression is almost sherry-like, soon becoming sweeter, with almond oil or almond cake. Also lightly fruity, with tropical fruits; papaya, ripe mango, plantain banana, and apricot. Finally, there are some fragrant floral notes, the base reminiscent of a sandalwood cigar wrapper. The Body is medium to full, with a creamy, even lightly oily texture and a sweet taste, which soon becomes pleasantly tart, with a hint of caramelised orange, then oaky-dry with light tannins. The finish is quite long, with a gentle, spicy warmth, and finishing dry, with vanilla fudge lingering in the long aftertaste.

Mannochmore 1990, 31-Year-Old 70 Cl 45.1% ABV

Bottled: 06.12.21 | Refill cask, untreated virgin European Oak | Number Bottled: 357 | Glenlossie, Speyside

The lesser-spotted, malty Mannochmore, made even rarer by its experimental maturation for almost three decades in highly active, virgin European oak. Charred bitter orange peel, spice rack flavours, coffee roaster and opulent aromas of well-polished antique bureaus. A rich, deep single malt for fans of cask-driven whiskies.

Mannochmore is a large Speyside distillery with half a dozen stills, where a light style is produced though without the oily background of its sister plant, Glenlossie. Flowers are more to the fore here, with delicate fruits that gain in weight when matured. Mannochmore is one of the manifestations of the confidence of the 1960s, built by DCL in 1971 to cope with increasing demand internationally for blends, and like its sister plant, Glenlossie, it has been closely associated with the Haig and Dimple brands. Here we are talking about a very special Mannochmore sourced from a single small experimental batch exposed to a highly unusual maturation. First housed in refill casks, then in unusual, highly active virgin European Oak for almost three decades has revealed a whole new character. The pale and youthful whisky has evolved into a dark and intriguing spirit, lean and smooth in texture. The powerful taste of striking dark orange marmalade is cut with drying wood spice before spiralling into endless layers of deep bitterness. Rich rosewood with ruby lights in appearance, this medium-bodied expression has a gentle and almost enigmatic nose, dry overall, which initially gives little away. After a while a suggestion of polished leather emerges, perhaps edging towards scented wax furniture polish, on a base of hard toffee, with vanilla notes. Lean and smooth in texture, while the powerfully bittersweet taste is immediately striking. The powerful taste of striking dark orange marmalade is cut with drying wood spice before spiralling into endless layers of deep bitterness. This is its striking finish, medium to long, lightly spicy and very drying, with a bitter-sweet nutty-spicy aftertaste.  

Brora 1981, 40-Year-Old 70 Cl 44.1% ABV

Bottled: 09.12.21 | 1 refill American Oak Hogshead, 1 European Oak Sherry Butt | Number Bottled: 354 | Brora, Highlands

Much of the Brora we know today is heavily peated, the American Oak hogshead and European Oak Sherry butt selected here show us a different side of the Brora story. Filled at a time when less whisky was being made, it was often less peaty allowing new aromas and tastes to shine through. The last release of 1981 Brora, this may well be the rarest publicly available Brora of all.  

It came as no surprise to anyone that, when Craig Wilson took his turn curating a Prima & Ultima Collection, he would include a Brora. In recent years, he has been involved in many aspects of this ghost distillery’s afterlife and resurrection. He was the brain behind last year’s much sought-after Brora Triptych, a trio of vintages from stills that went silent in 1983, showcasing three very different styles produced at different times throughout its history. He has also been closely involved with the reestablished Brora distillery, notably the challenge of being able to produce all of those distinct styles again whenever they like. As well as being a new working distillery, Brora is one of the best – and most exclusive – to visit by appointment.

For the Triptych, Wilson demarcated specific periods and the styles associated with those, but of course, there would be periods of overlap. So, 1981 was on the cusp of the more modern, lighter waxy style but still retaining elements of the age of peat. Indeed, it’s a mystery wrapped in an enigma, with a fragrant nose of waxed fruit, scented candlewax, then sweet spices on a rich smooth palate, with elusive will-o’-the-wisp smoke and moorland flowers dancing in and out of the scene, leading to a smooth waxy texture that is sweet and lightly smoky.

Deep, clear gold in appearance, there is no beading, but slow legs. The nose is very mild and mellow, with no prickle and the body is medium. But then, Brora is a chameleon, embracing everything from dark smoke to waxy, juicy fruit. This final release from 1981 displays a little of everything: honeyed fruit, snuffed candle, shaved nutmeg and a gentle wisp of peat smoke. The star of this year’s show.

The Singleton of Glen Ord 1987, 34-Year-Old 70 Cl 49.4% ABV

Bottled: 10.12.21 | 5 refill American Oak Hogsheads | Number Bottled: 1,047 | Glen Ord, Highlands

A first, and last, this is the first 1987 The Singleton of Glen Ord vintage and the only one ever to be released, from the last casks that remain. Slow crafting and patience were key to this rare bottling, taking time to distil the liquid and see each cask reach its peak. The result is an elegant liquid with absolutely breathtaking qualities. The sweetly satisfying taste 

A single malt to linger over when nosing – this is a massively fragrant, floral, fine whisky, with notes of ginger snap, bright fruit and an elusive wisp of smoke, possibly from the refill American oak. Remarkably lively, but also deep and broad, with a sweet finish that holds deep fruity flavours with hints of ginger. Add water for honeysuckle and gentle vanilla.

The Highland distillery on the Black Isle, close to Inverness, is set to gain a higher profile now that its new “brand home” has opened. Glen Ord is a rarity because 100 per cent of its malting is done on site. This bottling is both a first and a last… there has never been a bottling of a 1987 vintage before, nor will there be again, as these were the last casks remaining from that year. Glen Ords have always been highly prized both for The Singleton malts and for blends such as Johnnie Walker; the simple fact is, previous Master Blenders have used it all!

If this rarity is anything to go by, it’s easy to understand why… it is spectacular on the nose in particular, a complex jazz composition written to describe late summer in a country garden whether on the nose, the palate bringing out preserved ginger pavlova and with another tour of the garden on the finish.

Lagavulin 1993, 28-Year-Old 70 Cl 50.1% ABV

Bottled: 08.12.21|1 Pedro Ximenez/Oloroso seasoned butt, 1 refill American Oak Hogshead| Number Bottled: 642|Port Ellen, Isle of Islay

Showing Lagavulin’s darker side thanks to ageing in European and American oak, this is a richly fruited malt that will delight fans of Laga 16. Juicy blackcurrant and raspberry, then classic distillery notes of beach bonfire and iodine. Lapsang flavours are swiftly smothered by sweet black cherry and a compelling vinosity. 

A prized Lagavulin, from the last two 1993 casks, filled in the year the distillery won the first of an avalanche of international awards. It was the start of a golden era, a success that owed much to an Islay legend, Manager Grant Carmichael. This is a Lagavulin at its mature peak with redcurrant fruitiness on the nose, soon overcome by the maritime scents of sea salt and sweet seaweed. Lapsang flavours are swiftly smothered by sweet black cherry and a compelling vinosity. Lightly oily, the smooth texture delivers a long mellow finish, a gloriously rich and rounded whisky.

This will divide opinions. In one way, it’s a complex array of flavours with the best of Islay, sherry and ex-bourbon all having a say on the palate. While it is very interesting, there is only a touch of the distinctive Lagavulin character (iodine, in particular) left. The phenolic notes in Lagavulin become less pronounced, rounder, earthier, and better integrated as the whisky ages. Always set to champion experimentation, this is a wonderful dram, but perhaps only identifiable as a Lagavulin to the experienced palate.

The appearance is deep amber with ruby lights. Shiny chestnut. Very good beading and legs. A mellow nose in feel, with light prickle. Redcurrant fruitiness is soon overcome by maritime scents of sea salt and sweet seaweed on a base of woodsmoke. Its body is medium to full. Lightly oily and smooth in texture. An immediately sweet and lightly spicy start with winey fruit, a balancing pinch of salt and soon, appreciable pepper and smoke flooding through. Rich in style, with drying oak tannins and lightly drying later. The finish is long, with a deep peppery smokiness: slightly mouth-cooling, with more smoke in the peaty aftertaste.

Talisker 1984, 37-Year-Old 70 Cl 51.9% ABV

Bottled: 07.12.21 | 3 refill American Oak Hogsheads, 1 ex-Sherry European Oak Butt | Number Bottled: 968 | Carbost, Isle of Skye

While some of the releases in this year’s Prima & Ultima are unusual twists on a distillery’s usual character, this is a celebration of the familiar taken to a higher plane with ageing. The finest Taliskers are a harmonious balancing act of salt, smoke and sweetness, with just a pinch of chilli heat. Here the chimney soot smoke is quite assertive, but always the distillery’s classic maritime salinity persists, with some alluringly sweet fruit in the background. A savoury, silky whisky, redolent of warm summer days on a Skye beach.

Taken from the very last 1984 casks from Talisker, set aside and guarded for decades for their promising potential. At the time few knew of Talisker’s tempestuous maritime character, but there was something special about these 1984 casks that made the distiller set them aside. The finest Taliskers are a harmonious balancing act of salt, smoke and sweetness, with just a pinch of chilli heat. Here the chimney soot smoke is quite assertive, but always the distillery’s classic maritime salinity persists, with some alluringly sweet fruit in the background. A savoury, silky whisky redolent of warm summer days on a Skye beach.

The Talisker distillery is the oldest working whisky producer on the island of Skye. Until the opening of the Torabhaig distillery in 2017, it was the only producer. Historically, Talisker has been a peated whisky with a prominent maritime character and a trademark note of freshly ground black pepper on both the nose and the palate.

The whisky was matured in a combination of re-fill hogsheads made from ex-bourbon casks and one ex-Sherry European oak butt. A total of 968 bottles were filled.

Bright gold, polished brass in appearance, with exceptional large beading and a medium to full body. On the nose, Immediate mineral and lightly smoky with hints of chalk and salt, joined by notes of fine sand and seaweed drying on a hot day. The light smoke is followed by Talisker’s characteristic savoury/maritime notes reminiscent of a beach at low tide. There are some fruity notes and the trademark Talisker black pepper.

On the palate, the whisky is smooth, oily and viscous; the deliciously light oil-smooth texture introduces a sweet and richly malty start, soon balanced by a dash of salt mid-palate and surging waves of smoky pepper. It’s rich and fruity, with pronounced orchard fruit notes of apple and Asian pear, along with cold smoke, a savoury/saline character, a bit of earthiness and a pronounced pepperiness that features both black pepper and chilis, drying towards the finish. The finish is long, sweet and smoky, with a lingering pepperiness leaving a peppery heat on the tongue and a savoury maritime note. It is Skye in all its elemental glory.

Port Ellen 1980, 41-Year-Old 70 Cl 59.6% ABV

Bottled: 07.12.21 | 1 refill American Oak Hogshead, 1 ex-Sherry European Oak Butt  |  Number Bottled: 555 | Port Ellen, Isle of Islay

Commemorating HM Queen Elizabeth II’s visit to Port Ellen in 1980, this is the oldest release yet from the distillery. Remarkably high in alcohol for a 41-year-old whisky, it’s full-on, quintessential Port Ellen, with robust flavours of dying coal fire and a drying effect on the palate, elevated by beguiling flavours of honeydew melon. Beautifully textured, with a long, cooling and savoury finish. 

Port Ellen, another legendary distillery which was dismantled and only recently rebuilt and returned to production. Collectors eagerly seek its iconic whiskies and pay premium prices for them. The 1980 Port Ellen is the oldest Port Ellen released by Diageo and this prized piece of history is the oldest Port Ellen ever to be released, from the two very last casks of 1980 which lived all their days on Islay. This whisky of majestic quality is rich and smooth and has a perfect balance of sweet, salty, and smoky, with a long, lightly peaty finish of Iberico ham.

An impressive ABV for such an old whisky and as such this needs a healthy dose of water to bring out the complexity. Bring this one down to around 50% and you get the trappings of the quintessential Port Ellen.

Although the still designs at Port Ellen and Lagavulin were different – Port Ellen’s stills were onion-shaped with tall necks while Lagavulin’s stills were squat and short-necked – the two distilleries shared a similar style. Unlike Lagavulin, however, Port Ellen tended to be a little smokier and more peppery and briny but slightly less medicinal and oily. Even though both distilleries used a similarly peated malt, the cut points at Port Ellen differed from those at Lagavulin. Port Ellen also tended to use less active, re-fill barrels, so the whiskies received less cask wood influences. That’s also why Port Ellen whiskies have been able to age for such a long time without getting overly woody.

Bright, clear 9ct gold in appearance, it shows good beading and copious legs. A bit fresh on the nose, with some prickle closing the aroma initially; lightly drying. The initial impression is lightly medicinal, becoming more maritime as it opens with hints of brine, sea breeze, dry seaweed or boat varnish. Lightly smoky, with hints of spun honey. The body is medium to full and is rich, smooth and lightly oily in texture. Starts sweet, quickly seasoned with a shake of salt and pepper and has a long, gently warming and very lightly peaty finish, slightly mouth-cooling, with smoke lingering in the aftertaste.