FROM MOTHBALLS TO MONSTERS OF PEAT
Almost everybody I told that Ardbeg was a twice mothballed distillery that was finally bought in 1997 by Glenmorangie (read LVMH, of which Diageo owns 30%) didn't believe me. History doesn't lie. Scotch simply meant blended Scotch, nothing else, though Blended Malts were much the rage in the 1880s, right up to 1915. That meant a lot, as Blended Scotch- where a grain whisky could be added to a malt whisky- had arrived in 1860 for Distillers and 1863 for Grocers. Ardbeg just did not mix, such was its taste. Production, when attempted, would be for a couple of months a year, just to keep the distillery alive. It was a losing proposition, which is why it was mothballed twice. The good thing though, was that there was a plenitude of old Ardbeg barrels.
Although it has long claimed to be Islay’s smokiest malt (now challenged by Bruichladdich’s Octomore), Ardbeg can also realistically lay claim to be one of the island’s sweetest. It is this combination of rich sooty/tarry smoke with a citric sweet core which gives it its balance.
There have been many ups and downs on the long road to Ardbeg throughout the years. Ardbeg’s story is one of irrepressible spirit surviving against the odds, finally emerging as “unquestionably, one of the greatest distilleries in Scotland.” That could be conceded, as long as the region is Scotland. Given to US-styled self-aggrandizement, some blinkered blokes call it the greatest distillery on Earth, but then these blokes have no idea that countries like Japan, India and Taiwan, among many others, make amazing smoked and peated single malts.
A rise in demand for
peated whisky saw production increase in the 1960s and 1970s, with demand
necessitating that the distillery bring in peated malt from Port Ellen from
1974. For aficionados, the end of Ardbeg’s self-sufficiency was the end of an
era – and a style. Seven years later, Ardbeg’s kiln was finally extinguished.
Hiram Walker took full
control in 1979, buying out DCL’s 50% share for £300,000, and everyone else’s
holdings at the same time. By that time, blends were once again on the slide
and, to compensate for the drop in demand for smoky malt, an unpeated make (Kildalton)
began to be produced.
In 1981 the distillery was
mothballed, but started up again in 1989, albeit on an intermittent basis, by
which time it had joined Laphroaig in the Allied Distillers stable.
In 1996, it was silent
once more, but saved a year later by Glenmorangie, which paid £7m for the
distillery and stock – or what there was of it. By this time, Ardbeg had built
its reputation as one of the cult single malts. Glenmorangie’s task therefore was
both to manage expectations, eke out the remaining stock, and start recreating
the brand. In an inspired move they also invested in a visitor centre and café
(for years pretty much the only place to eat in the south of Islay).
The whiskies of Ardbeg are usually heavily peated malts. Compared to other Islay malts Ardbeg doesn’t focus on the sea and salt tastes. They rather focus on aromas of spices, malt or sweet tones like vanilla and chocolate. Their core range consists of the Ardbeg TEN, Uigeadail and Corryvreckan. The TEN is named after its age. Uigeadail was named after the Loch Uigeadail a lake. The Corryvreckan is a famous sea vortex between the Isle of Jura and the Isle of Scarba.
The stock profile meant that its first age statement release was a 17-year-old, while it would take until 2008 for its own Ardbeg 10-year-old to appear. From 2004, however, there had been incremental releases: ’Very Young’, ‘Still Young’ and ‘Almost There’ showed the work in progress. In 2004, LVMH bought both Glenmorangie and Ardbeg, and prices were ramped up as expected. Ardbeg was to benefit from Glenmorangie's signature cask policy.
The portfolio still
concentrates on no-age-statement releases, some exclusively from (now very
rare) old stock, others from new, some from a mix. Different oaks have also
been used as part of a general improvement in the quality of casks used. The
range has been bolstered in recent years by the addition of core expressions
Ardbeg An Oa (NAS) in 2017 and Ardbeg Traigh Bhan 19 Year Old two years later.
In February 2018, plans
were unveiled to double Ardbeg’s production capacity with the addition of
another pair of stills, to be housed with the existing two in a new still
house. The current stillhouse will be redeployed to house new washbacks.
The production volume of
around 1,000,000 litres is quite large for a two pot still distillery that only
produces single malt whisky. Ardbeg doesn't supply its spirit to the blended
whisky industry, but sometimes a few barrels reach the independent bottlers so
there are numerous independent bottles on the market. The Isle of
Islay has quite a few water sources, so the Ardbeg distillery can get its water
from two main water sources: the Loch Airigh Nam Beist and the Loch Uigeadail.
Ardbeg
distillery brings out annually on Ardbeg Day a special release with no age
statement (Supernova, Ardbog, Alligator, Dark Cove, Kelpie, Blaaack, et al). These bottles are highly advertised, quite special in taste and price and very limited in quantity. Ardbeg Committee
Members get first choice.
Let's take it one step at a time:
THE RISE, FALL AND RESURGENCE OF ARDBEG
2006 – Young, old and rare. Ardbeg Still Young is launched, the next step on ''the peaty path to maturity''. Ardbeg 1965, an extremely limited release of only 261 bottles is the oldest Ardbeg ever to be released: 'the envy of Islay'. Ardbeg Airigh Nam Beist ("the Beastie") is released, drawn from rare and restricted whisky stocks, laid down in 1990.
2016 – Ardbeg Dark Cove recalls smuggling past.
2021–
The Airigh Nam Beist |
Ardbeg Provenance
Ardbeg Airigh Nam Beist
Ardbeg Uigeadail
Ardbeg Corryvreckan
Ardbeg Ardbog
Ardbeg Supernova
Ardbeg Kildalton
Ardbeg 10 YO