JOHNNIE WALKER BLACK LABEL TRIPLE CASK NAS

JOHNNIE WALKER BLACK LABEL NAS

The Johnnie Walker Black Label 12 YO: Let's first take a step back in history. You wouldn’t be far wrong in saying that Johnnie Walker Black Label 12 YO was a true icon, recognised as the benchmark for all other deluxe blends globally from 1920-2005. It was at top spot in Asia from the mid 1980s till 2005. Phipson’s Black Dog ruled the roost in Asia from 1889 to 1980. Something Special came to the fore between 1960 and 2005, when it was packed off to South America to leave the market open for Chivas Regal to strengthen its hold of numero uno in China and Asia. Johnnie Walker Black Label, created using only whiskies aged for a minimum of 12 years from the four corners of Scotland, had an unmistakably smooth, deep, complex character, now lost to the masses.

Yesterday's Johnnie Walker Black Label 12 Years Old Blended Scotch Whisky had Cardhu as its core malt, backed up with the super-smooth Glenkinchie, Dalwhinnie, Linkwood, Teaninich, the multi-faceted Cragganmore, Clynelish, Dailuaine, Talisker and Caol Ila. Today, the recognisable Single Malts for me are Clynelish, Cardhu, Caol Ila, Glenkinchie and Dalwhinnie. Mortlach, Linkwood and Dailuaine are lost to posterity. JW claims that there are at least 25-28 more Single Malts and they must be right; it is a 40-whisky blend, after all. The Single Malts need not be from different distilleries; any distillery can provide tens of Single Malts, of the same or different ages. I'm also quite certain that Roseisle, which has started releasing 12 YO single malts since end 2023, features in the overall blend. Diageo has also added Strathmill here, as it seems to be a standalone distillery producing malts for blending.

The recognisable Grain Whisky is Cameronbridge, probably of two or three different batches. Earlier versions also featured grain whiskies from Carsebridge, Port Dundas and Cambus. The first named is only a vague memory and the last two have closed. Their old stock, dwindling rapidly, is reserved for the really aged expressions like Blue Label and 21-50 YO one-of-a-kind bottlings. The saline and mildly smoky notes of Talisker are missing. Some of these 12 YOs, which are of both the peated and unpeated variety, are not sold in the market, and have, sadly, not been used for over five years, with detrimental effect on the Blend.

The slightly smoky taste comes from the Cragganmore and Caol Ila. The hint of peat comes primarily from Caol Ila, strengthened by Clynelish; the smoothness comes from Cardhu, Glenkinchie, Blair Athol and the grain whiskies that are used to tame and meld the malts perfectly. A 1-litre bottle of Black Label costs $ 28. A bottle of 0.70 L Caol Ila 12 YO costs $56, or $80 per litre. The Caol Ila 12 YO is far more expensive and Diageo is losing money on the peated malt diverted to making the Black and other Labels. The same is true for ALL other Single Malts that made up the once fabulous concoction of JW Black Label! The Malt whiskies tot up to 35-40%. The Grain whiskies, ~60%, are also 12 YO. The last one percent is taken up by E150A Caramel colourant.

It is rated as an impressive whisky to share on any occasion, whether you're entertaining at home with friends or on a memorable night out. But it has lost top spot amongst 12 YO Blended Scotch whiskies simply because Diageo has run out of single malts that met the original recipe. No amount of experimenting with other single malts-up to 35 or even more of them can replicate the Extra Special Old Highland 12 YO, the original name of the Black Label till 1909. Dewar’s 12 YO, Buchanan's Deluxe 12 YO, Grand Old Parr and Chivas Regal deluxe whiskies are rated higher than Black Label.

SURPRISE SURPRISE

NO AGE STATEMENT

Johnnie Walker Black Label Triple Cask Edition No Age Statement, an end 2018 release, is a limited-edition whisky inspired by the lighter flavours and aromas found in the iconic Johnnie Walker Black Label. Mostly available in travel retail stores, this new whisky offers travellers a new experience. You bet! This is the first time the Black Label has gone NAS!

This new expression has been crafted by Johnnie Walker Master Blender Jim Beveridge and expert blender Chris Clark using a blend of malt and grain whiskies from the usual distilleries and has been finished in casks previously used to mature American bourbon, then Scotch whisky, and finally Caribbean pot still rum. Unusual combo, this, as refill Scotch barrels are used in the finishing phase.

An interesting nose with more medicinal wafts taking the forefront than other Johnnie Walker releases. The nose is intriguing yet off the beaten track for Johnnie Walker — most probably due to the pot still rum barrel influence. Sweet for sure, it’s laden with notes of overripe fruit and features an ephemeral wisp of smoke.

The thin texture carries a predominant, almost ashy, burnt oak note which slowly builds sweeter with more wood sugars becoming present. Sawdust and coconut follow and the taste is rather malty, right through the heavy fruit influence. The oakiness becomes prominent, given its lack of smoke. The sweetness of the whisky lingers to the point of overwhelming the whisky’s other umami elements. Probably a high percentage of Roseisle, Blair Athol and Strathmill, with Cardhu the mainstay, as always.

The finish is of medium length and stays on the sweeter side with some honey on burnt toast and softly spiced vanilla ice cream.

Overall: Leave this one alone, at least till the price comes down to US$ 26-28.