THE BEST OF THE SPRING
GLENGLASSAUGH SANDEND HIGHLAND SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY
Whisky Of The Year 2023
Situated just outside the village of Portsoy, Glenglassaugh initially looks to be a pretty traditional setup with an open-topped rake and plough mash tun, wooden washbacks and two stills. The presence of two stainless steel washbacks, part of a 1966 refurbishment alters the impression that little has changed. The new style is medium weight and very fruity with a heavy honeyed floral character. Some peated spirit (35 ppm) is also made.
GLENGLASSAUGH HISTORY
Blenders however found it a difficult customer, one of those highly individual malts which didn’t rub along particularly well with other elements in a blend. Had the single malt market been up and running in the 1970s its story might be very different, but its sheer awkwardness meant it was deemed surplus to Highland’s requirements when the whisky loch was filling in the early 1980s and firms were rationalising their estates. When it closed in 1986, people just sighed and forgot about it; no-one thought it would ever re-open.
But then, it did. In 2008, a Russian-financed firm bought the plant, refurbished the distillery and restarted production. After releasing some of the remaining pre-1986 stock of bottles to roaring acclaim (see Addendum infra), the distillery began producing experimental spirits with a focus on expressions with no age statement, notably “The Spirit Drink That Dare Not Speak Its Name” and “The Spirit Drink that Blushes To Speak Its Name.” (Neither of those bottles were whiskies, but mashes of malted barley that were fermented, distilled twice, and bottled at 50% ABV without ageing. The latter spent six months maturing in red wine casks, imparting a rose-colored hue to the spirit.) Though admittedly strange spirits to come out of a Scotch distillery, these two long-winded labels foreshadowed the experimentation that would be seen from Glenglassaugh down the line. Nonetheless, the distillery changed hands when Benriach Distillery Company purchased it in 2013, and then Brown-Forman, owner of Jack Daniel’s, bought Benriach and all of its subsidiaries in 2016.
Glenglassaugh is admittedly the least known of Brown-Forman’s three Scotch brands, due at least in part to the distillery’s long periods of dormancy and repeated tinkering with expressions and packaging since 2016. But perhaps that lack of mainstream recognition could be what’s allowed the distillery to become so experimental in recent years. If Sandend Highland Single Malt is hard proof of Glenglassaugh master blender Rachel Barrie’s prowess, we can’t wait to experience the other non-age-statement Highland single malts she may produce down the line.
In 2023, a brand new core range was ready! The distillery sits nestled behind the beautiful surfer's haven, Sandend Bay. Master blender Rachel Barrie has fond childhood memories of time spent at Sandend and now the bay is honoured in the form of this unpeated single malt. Matured in a combo of bourbon, sherry, and manzanilla casks, it's bursting with notes of tropical fruit and tablet, with delicate coastal salinity in the distance.
Regardless of clout and circumstance, Glenglassaugh’s
2023 expressions ascended to a new level. While the flagship 12 YO was certainly
enjoyable, the Sandend Highland Single Malt was the bottle that was truly
captivating. From its fruit-driven nose and punchy ABV to its warming finish
and kiss of salinity, this spirit marks an exciting new direction in Scotch
where age statements play second fiddle to experimentation and discovery.
Cheers to the team at Glenglassaugh, and to a promising rebirth of a storied distillery.
In the world of Scotch, more emphasis is usually placed on age than alcohol content, but Glenglassaugh’s Sandend Highland Single Malt challenges that concept. At an even-keeled 50.5 percent ABV with no age statement given, this whisky is testament to the promising experimental Scotch whiskies often overlooked in favour of the aged, assertive expressions that have dominated the space for years. Just to set doubters at ease, the Sandend was chosen The Whisky Professor's Whisky Of The Year 2023!
TASTING NOTES: 70Cl, 50.5% ABV, NAS, £55
ON THE EYE: Bright golden hue.
NOSE: Delightful notes of buttery fudge, vanilla ice cream, candied mango, and salted papaya.
PALATE: Mango and toasted vanilla trickle throughout, backed by boiled pineapple sweeties and creamy barley.
FINISH: Grapefruit and juicy berries, more vanilla and butterscotch, and a distant coastal breeze.
SUMMATION: Not only is this an exceptional bottle from a craft perspective, but it also marks Glenglassaugh’s successful 21st-century push into the world of fine Scotch.
ADDENDUM: GLENGLASSAUGH UNVEILS RARE SINGLE CASK COLLECTION
The casks available are all from the 1970-1986 period. In January this year, Glenglassaugh distillery launched its new Serpentine Coastal Cask Collection, featuring three old and rare cask bottlings. Each release from this collection is over 48 years old, capturing the spirit of Highland whisky. The collection takes its name from the serpentine marble found in the cliffs surrounding the distillery.
The inaugural three releases in the collection include:
- 1. Glenglassaugh Serpentine Coastal Cask Collection 48 Year Old (46.1% ABV), a single malt Scotch whisky distilled on May 28, 1974, and matured in an Aleatico Red wine barrique.
- 2. Glenglassaugh Serpentine Coastal Cask Collection 49 Year Old (42.1% ABV), a single malt Scotch whisky distilled on November 9, 1973, and matured in a Bourbon barrel.
- 3. Glenglassaugh Serpentine Coastal Cask Collection 51 Year Old (44.2% ABV), a single malt Scotch whisky distilled on October 25, 1972, and matured in an Oloroso Sherry puncheon.
Rachel Barrie, Master Blender at Glenglassaugh Distillery dwelt on the launch, stressing that the legacy of their most sought-after casks dated back to the 1970s and the sheer rarity of finding casks matured in coastal locations for such extended periods. Their warehouses overlooking Sandend Bay have safeguarded this old and rare liquid for over five decades.
The three whiskies are currently available in Singapore, with plans for global distribution in the coming spring. The respective recommended retail prices are £7,500, £8,300, and £10,600. Further releases from the collection will be announced later this year.
LONGMORN: SPEYSIDE SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY DISTILLERY
BEHIND THE SOMETHING SPECIAL FAMILY
Longmorn has quietly provided a sweet and deeply fruity component to a multiplicity of blends since its founding. Its ferments are long, the distillation takes place in eight thick-necked stills, giving a make which is weighty enough to age well in both ex-Sherry and ex-Bourbon.
THE LONGMORN STORY
From a time of industrial and creative revolution followed by nearly 130 years of ceaseless ambition staying true to the origins of the iconic Speyside Style, Longmorn has waited for its time to come.
Longmorn’s founder John Duff laid the foundation for a legendary vision, a product that travelled well beyond the cask. Having matured at the height of industrial and creative revolution, Longmorn Distillery represents the embodiment of the adventurous spirit and ambition of its founder, who himself was inspired by this time of immense innovation.
It was this obstinate ambition that compelled John Duff to build Longmorn its own railway to import ingredients and export its product worldwide. And it is out of loyalty to these long-standing, time-honoured principles that throughout its history, amongst enormous societal change and upheaval, Longmorn’s quiet dedication to its liquid has withstood the tests of time.
Embodying an unwavering faith in its process, remaining constant and unrelenting, sharing an unrivaled taste and story to match. A reverence for its roots lies at the heart of Longmorn’s unimpeachable heritage. It is the truest to the classic Speyside Style, an icon of its origins and a legend of its land, authentically upholding an enduring ethos with an unrivalled integrity. Drawing water from deep under their distillery’s doors, the soul of Speyside runs through every drop.
Longmorn’s history is one of endless expertise. But it is an expertise that has been earned the hard way through the ambitious innovation and experimentation of its pivotal pioneers of the past: from the globetrotting entrepreneurial founder, to the architect inspired by design from distant lands, to the Speyside apprentice who became the master of Japanese whisky! Longmorn tells a story of proven masters committed to their craft.
Longmorn has been available as a single malt since the launch of a 15-year-old in 1993, a bottling which sported a slightly fantastic label showing the distillery nestled in the midst of rugged peaks – it’s on the flatlands near Elgin. It has been prominent in Blended Scotch, with Chivas Bros using it prolifically.
The 15 YO was replaced by an extravagantly packaged 16 YO in 2007, but the needs of blenders have meant that, even with increased production, the vast bulk of Longmorn is ring-fenced, with a single-cask offering part of Chivas Brothers’ Cask Strength series. It is, deservedly so, a regular sight on independent bottlers’ lists and has consequently built up a cult following, particularly in Japan.
The tours and travels of John Duff, one of the 19th century’s most interesting whisky entrepreneurs who designed Glenlossie in 1876, saw him overseas to learn for himself techniques and traditions in South Africa and the USA and return home and build Longmorn in 1893. Five years after he built another plant next door – Benriach. In 1899 he sold out to James Grant. Although Duff’s business was not technically sound, given his mixed enterprise, his whisky was and by the start of the 20th century Longmorn was a prize malt, used in a variety of blends including VAT 69 and Dewar’s.
In 1970, the Grant family and blender Hill Thompson of Something Special fame, (which has a long relationship with Longmorn) merged with The Glenlivet & Glen Grant Distilleries Ltd to create The Glenlivet Distilleries Ltd. This was bought by Seagram in 1977 and (minus Glen Grant) is now part of Chivas Brothers.
THE COLLECTION
Longmorn’s story is long and complex, but the inevitable conclusion has always been the same: the perfect Speyside malt. From the warmth of American oak to its creamy toffee profile, Longmorn epitomises the signature Speyside style. Beloved by those in the know and unmatched in its refinement and flavour, true to itself, and true to its iconic home.
18 YO: 2023 ANNUAL RELEASE
A sought-after single malt, the truest to Speyside’s iconic flavour profile. Longmorn’s 2023 annual release 18 year old was aged in barrels and hogsheads. A single batch single malt whisky, produced at one moment in time to capture their signature style.
This whisky reveals rich tasting notes of toffee apples, apricots and fresh tropical fruit before a subtly sweet finish of creamy milk chocolate.
22 YO: 2023 ANNUAL RELEASE
Further matured, further refined, further perfected to create a rich depth that expands upon that classic Speyside style. Longmorn’s 2023 annual release 22 year old was aged in a carefully curated selection of barrels and hogsheads. A single batch single malt whisky, produced at one moment in time to capture the depth and complexity of their signature style.
This rare single malt balances tasting notes of hazelnut praline and luscious toffee with delicate citrus and poached pears for a sweet and smooth finish.
Longmorn went on to releases its ultra-premium Scotch in the U.S. in February 2024. It's not often that a 130-year-old Scotch whisky brand makes its first appearance in the U.S., the distinction from Chivas Regal which made its global debut there in 1909 as the world’s most luxurious and ultra-premium 25 YO Scotch and 1939, when the 12 YO made its own global debut there.
Longmorn celebrated its long, distinguished history with its first two stateside releases. Rather than start with young expressions, the Speysiders launched an 18-Year-Old ($310) and a 22-Year-Old ($430), giving the brand immediate weight in a less crowded space. Both bottlings are non-chill filtered and bottled at cask strength (57.6 percent ABV and 54.5 percent ABV, respectively). Having had an opportunity to try each, both are a hit—each revelling in the brand's signature “creamy toffee” flavours.
In addition to signifying Longmorn’s commitment to releasing only single malts aged 18 years or more, the 18-Year-Old and 22-Year-Old expressions mark the debut of an elevated new look for the 130-year-old brand, the company notes. The new design will be reflected across the Longmorn portfolio and each permanent release, introducing consumers to the complex history of Longmorn and their signature Speyside style of whisky with each pour, it says.
The 18-Year-Old reveals the best of both Speyside and Longmorn, balancing those rich toffee notes with the region’s iconic orchard fruits, as well as milk chocolate. The 22-Year-Old has even more depth, with hints of hazelnut joining the blend of toffee, pear, apple, and citrus.
Moving forward, Longmorn will embrace vintages, with plans to release a new, small batch of whiskies every year. As for 2024, there is plenty of excitement with the brand's first two offerings in the U.S.—a spectacular pair of bottles, and, apparently, only the beginning.
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Comparison: With these two releases, Longmorn explores the depth and complexity that comes with careful ageing. The whiskies are non-chill filtered, aged mostly in American oak casks, presumably ex-bourbon and bottled at cask strength. The new releases also received snazzy new bottles decked out in royal purple and gold. They definitely look sharp on a home bar.
Tasting these two expressions side-by-side is a great way to explore the effects a few extra years have on the same juice. The 18-year is rich and velvety on the intake, with up-front aromatics of chocolate, toffee and soft oak. It’s full bodied and chewy on the mid-palate, with notes of milk chocolate, oak, vanilla, and green apple. The long finish is spicier, but with the chocolate overlay. With just a few more years on it, the 22-year tastes completely different. There is an oak brashness that dominates, with a more vegetal, leather, ripe stone fruit complexity. Notes of almond appear on both the nose and palate, and the long dry finish is rich with cooked pear, oak, white pepper, toffee, and walnut. Not over-keen on its woodiness, I’d go for the 18 YO.
DEANSTON 15 YEAR OLD TEQUILA CASK FINISH
Fruity, floral and citrus
HISTORY: Deanston Highland Distillery
Even though it was built in the late 1960s, Deanston has retained some old-style features in kit and distilling regime.
Its mash tun is open-topped for example, while the way it is run – low gravity worts, long fermentation, slow distillation – helps to produce a new make style which is in the waxy quadrant. This represents a switch back to the original style. In the Invergordon era, Deanston had conformed to a modern style of production, making a light dry ‘nutty-spicy’ make.
Today organic barley is also run through the stills and, in common with all of Burn Stewart’s single malts, it is bottled without chill-filtering or caramel tinting.
There are many distilleries in Scotland which started life as mills, but none of them had quite the scale of Deanston. This huge plant was constructed on the banks of the fast-flowing River Teith in 1785 by Richard Arkwright who used it as one of the sites for the development of the Spinning Jenny. It also had what was claimed to be the largest water wheel in Europe.
Weaving continued here until 1964 when the buildings were bought by Brodie Hepburn. Production started in 1969, but its original owners only had it for three years before the company was bought by private label specialist Invergordon. It ran for a decade before the ‘80s whisky slump forced its owner to shut it down. Eight years later, it was bought for £2.1m by Burn Stewart.
It can claim to be one of the greenest distilleries in Scotland. All of its power is generated by a turbine house which processes 20 million litres of water an hour. The excess electricity is then sold to the National Grid.
Although single malt bottlings started relatively early – in 1974 – it is only recently that Deanston has been elevated to a front-line single malt brand.
Deanston's uniquely waxy, citrus character is incredibly flexible and adaptable. This distinctive characteristic makes it the perfect single malt for experimentation and maturation in different cask types, such as tequila. Both tequila and single malt scotch whisky are highly protected and regulated, crafted using hands-on production methods, come in an array of colours, and have five regions which impact flavour profile.
WHISKY PROFILE: 70 Cl, 52.5% ABV, Non Chill-filtered, Unpeated
Cask Information: Deanston single malt, from the Scottish Highlands, is matured in traditional Oak hogsheads for 13 years and finished in hand selected casks that once held Agave Tequila from the Jaliscan Highlands, Mexico, for a further 2 years.
Natural Colour: With no added colour, the liquid maintains its pale gold hue, showcasing the maturation process and the impact of the cask.
Non-Chill Filtered: All Deanston whiskies are non-chill filtered to maintain the whisky's integrity and preserve its uniquely waxy character.
Taste: Fruity, floral notes from the tequila casks compliment the versatile, waxy, citrus character of Deanston. A fresh fruity burst on the nose. Sweet, rich, dry on the palate. Warming spice and sweetness of caramelised agave.
Always Unpeated: Always unpeated, locally sourced barley from the Highlands of Scotland.
Uniquely Waxy: Our traditional methods create a uniquely waxy whisky that is brimming with flavour progression on the palette.
NOSE: Fresh. Notes of ripe pineapple, crème brûlée, mixed nuts and light oak.
PALATE: Rich, yet dry on the palate. Bursting with flavours of caramelised agave, toasted almonds, baked apples with custard and warming spice.
FINISH: Long finish with brown spice and sweet, citrus bursts.
GLENLIVET 12 YO FIRST-FILL AMERICAN OAK
200th Anniversary
This celebratory single malt comprises first fill American oak casks, hand-picked to celebrate the 200th anniversary of The Glenlivet. The fruity, lightly tropical character that made this Speyside distillery famous is present and correct with some added vanilla, coconut and almond notes from that good-quality white oak. A fitting way to mark the bicentenary of one of Scotland’s most iconic distilleries.
200 YEARS AND COUNTING
The 1823 Excise Act triggered an explosion in the whisky industry. After more than a century evading the King’s justice, the pioneers of Scottish distilling were then able to gain a license to ply their trade. The required fee of £10, and the more agreeable rate of tax than ever before, was enough to lure scores of whisky makers to the right side of the law. Once paid up, they could secure investment, expand operations and plan for the future. Among the first to sign a license was a farmer named George Smith from Upper Drummin in the Livet valley – the Glen Livet.
THE GLENLIVET
As a legitimate businessman, Smith became a leader in the emergent industry of Highland distilling. Even in those early days his spirit had a serious reputation among drinkers, who prized its fruity and elegant character. At this time there were many distilleries trading with the term ‘Glenlivet’ appended to their name – the term having become a byword for illicit whisky from Speyside over the years. As many as 28 separate distilleries plied their trade with gay abandon, at times sullying the original Drumin Glenlivet’s reputation. A 50-year legal battle ensued and in the 1880s the Smith family won a legal battle for their whisky to be recognised as the definite article, along with two others, who soon vanished in the upcoming gloomy days for the industry.
SETTING NEW STANDARDS SINCE 1824
Since inception, The Glenlivet has always been about moving forward, setting new standards and exploring unconventional ways to deliver new single malt taste experiences that complement The Glenlivet’s fruity house style.
To commemorate their bicentennial anniversary, they are celebrating throughout 2024 with a line-up of exciting events, experiences and innovations.
The artwork for The Glenlivet 200 Year Anniversary Limited Edition 12 Year Old was voted for and chosen by friends and fans of The Glenlivet. This design highlights pivotal moments, influential figures and significant landmarks integral to our story, casting an eye towards the future and anticipating the next 200 years – this whisky is a celebration of George Smith’s vision!
Maturation: Unlike the classic Glenlivet 12, which matures in a combination of European and American oak casks, this 200th-anniversary edition is exclusively aged in American oak casks. This technique imparts luxuriously creamy hints of buttery oak, vanilla, and toasted coconut to the whisky, harmoniously enhancing its intrinsic flavors of ripe citrus and tropical fruits.
Flavour Profile: 12 YO, 75Cl, 43% ABV, £55
Nose: It opens with sweet, tangy fruits like juicy pineapple, clementine, and a touch of citrus blossom. Hazelnut cream and vanilla follow, accompanied by caramel shortbread.
Palate: Expect fresh, juicy fruit flavors—ripe pears, pressed apples, and sweet candied orange—supported by toasted marzipan and oaken vanilla.
Finish: The finish lingers with toasty notes of coconut, almond, creamy vanilla, and elegant oak char.
Summation:
This limited-edition Glenlivet release is a delightful tribute to two centuries of whisky craftsmanship. Worth the try even if $20 more expensive.
INTRODUCING THE GLENLIVET FUSION CASK
This category-first innovation continues The Glenlivet’s commitment and 200-year legacy of setting new standards and exploring unconventional ways to deliver new single malt taste experiences.
THE GLENLIVET LAUNCHES FUSION CASK SERIES WITH RUM AND BOURBON EXPRESSION
The new series will feature single malts finished in recoopered casks that combine different cask types. The launch of the Fusion Cask series comes in the year that The Glenlivet celebrates its 200th anniversary.
The Glenlivet continues its parade of unusual and unexpected whiskies with its new Fusion Cask Selection, which it describes as “a category-first innovation,” selectively finished in “bespoke casks that are uniquely crafted by fusing dismantled first-fill rum and bourbon barrels.” If this sounds at all familiar, you might be recalling Amrut’s Fusion release, which has the same basic idea. No specific ages are attached to the whisky, either primary aging or finishing.
The Glenlivet Fusion Cask release will showcase ‘flavour experimentation’ with batches of the Speyside distillery's single malt spirit that have been partly matured in bespoke casks. They will thus be intriguing single malt Scotch whiskies that showcase flavour experimentation.
The first in the series is The Glenlivet Rum and Bourbon Fusion Cask Selection, for which single malt spirit was finished in recoopered casks that comprise wood from both first-fill rum and first-fill bourbon casks. The chosen casks were dismantled and rebuilt into new vessels that pair the heads of one cask type with the staves of the other – a method that The Glenlivet's owner Chivas Brothers claims as a first for the Scotch single malt category.
Let me restate that, regarding a couple of points here, none of which takes away from this single malt’s unique character. Just a portion of the whisky in the blend is finished in these special casks, not the entirety of the liquid. And the casks were created by interchanging heads—putting rum barrel heads on bourbon barrels, and bourbon barrel heads on rum barrels—as opposed to building new casks using both types of staves. Still, the effects are pronounced and the whisky is quite good,
This claim is true insofar as Scotch Whisky is concerned. The Indian single malt Amrut Spectrum 007 featured staves from seven different first-fill barrels of varied types of spirits, including barrels from different countries that manufacture spirits. To make the Spectrum 007, a two part maturation technique was employed, the first being maturation of New Make spirit in ex-Bourbon casks followed by transferring the aged spirit into the custom barrels. The custom barrels are made with seven different kinds of staves, new American Oak with Char level 3, new French Oak with light toasting, ex-Oloroso staves, ex-PX Sherry staves, ex-Cognac staves, virgin Russian oak casks with a medium to heavy toast and ex-Mizunara oak casks. The aforementioned barrel has equal proportions of all seven kinds of staves arranged in a one-after-the-other manner lending their own characteristics and complexities to the malt coming into its own on the nose and the palate.
Unique Cask Fusion: The Glenlivet Fusion Cask is part of a new series that features a single malt finished in bespoke casks. These casks are crafted by fusing dismantled rum and bourbon barrels, creating a distinctive flavour profile.
Flavour Profile: The whisky has been matured in specially designed casks that once cradled rum and bourbon. As a result, it offers a palate of caramel toffee, toffee-covered bananas, and a hint of cinnamon spice, notes expected from both Rum and Bourbon.
Tasting Notes: NAS, 70 Cl, 40% ABV, £80 ($100.)
The Glenlivet Fusion Cask is more flavourful than anticipated, with a smooth finish. Notes of orange, vanilla,. Tasting notes supplied by The Glenlivet say the Rum and Bourbon Fusion Cask Selection has aromas of orange, vanilla custard, and coconut, with palate notes of apricot, fresh apples, toffee-covered bananas, cinnamon and a blend of rum and bourbon characteristics make it a unique experience.
Chivas Brothers cask experts claim that this category-first innovation continues their commitment and 200-year legacy of pushing boundaries in whisky. As a team of makers at The Glenlivet, they work closely with their partners at the cooperage to ensure the handmade casks are of the highest quality, and this intricate dismantling and reassembling process to create new bespoke casks ensures a distinctive and expertly crafted finish.
The Glenlivet Rum and Bourbon Fusion Cask Selection was available for purchase in the US from February 2024, priced from US$99.99.
ON THE EYE: The glass holds a nice lighter golden brown colour, reminiscent of a good Scotch look. The legs and viscosity are square on as well.
NOSE: The aromatics on this have both floral and sweet notes, reflecting lavender, tropical flowers, honey, apricot, and apple, and a slight back note of vanilla.
PALATE: Notes of Spring! Some light warming notes and a bit of sweet. Highlights here include vanilla, honey, a touch of baked bread, brown sugar, oak, apricot, and a very slight sour apple.
FINISH: Short, with a sweet, slightly oily feel in the throat.
SUMMATION: Glenlivet is the best-selling single malt in the USA. The Glenlivet has always been an approachable Scotch single malt, which is why it sells so well. This Fusion Cask derivative is another feather in that cap, offering a unique alternative to the house flavour style.
LOCH LOMOND HIGHLAND SCOTCH WHISKY DISTILLERY
A product of the 1960s distillery building boom, Loch Lomond was built in ’66 by a joint partnership between Duncan Thomas, the American owner of Littlemill (now closed), and Chicago-based Barton Brands. The American firm took full control in 1971, but closed it in 1984 when that boom turned to bust. It passed into the hands of Inver House the year after, before they flipped it to Glen Catrine Bonded Warehouse Ltd in 1986. The firm added Glen Scotia to its portfolio in 1994.
Loch Lomond is one of Scotland’s most versatile distilleries, producing single malt, single grain and blended whiskies alike, all of which vary in style from the soft and fruity to rich and heavily peated. The distillery uses a selection of different stills to make its whisky, including traditional pot stills, continuous column stills and the famous Lomond stills – straight-necked pot stills with rectifying plates.
Loch Lomond was set up by its former owner to be Scotland’s self-sufficient distillery. Rather than playing the normal game of exchanging the spirit made for fillings of grain and malt for own blends, it made all its requirements itself. That meant being innovative.
The original distillery held a set of pot stills with rectifying plates in their necks (also known as Lomond stills), allowing different flavour streams to be produced. Expansion in 1990 saw a second pair of the same design being installed, before the distillery installed two continuous stills three years later in which to make its own grain whisky. Two ‘traditional’ swan neck pot stills were added in 1998, before an additional continuous still, set up to produce grain whisky from a 100% malted barley mash, was installed in 2007. With the recent addition of two more Lomond stills, Loch Lomond has the capability to produce 11 different distillates for its whisky brands (not including the spirit coming from Glen Scotia). Wine yeasts have also been used to help create different flavours. In many ways it is more akin to a Japanese approach to distilling than a Scottish one.
As well as the High Commisisoner blend, Loch Lomond has produced a range of single malt brands, including Inchmurrin, Inchmoan, Inchfad, Old Rosdhu, Croftengea and Craiglodge. While all have been available as official and independent bottlings at one time or another, only a handful continue to be bottled as part of the distillery’s current range.
Glen Catrine was the bottling and ageing arm of Bulloch & Co, a well-established blending and retail firm which owned the High Commissioner brand as well as, in time, Glen’s Vodka. Under Glen Catrine’s ownership, Loch Lomond grew to become the most flexible – and arguably the most innovative – distillery in Scotland. Its specialisation in the private label and export business however meant that its operations were never widely reported, or understood.
The firm was sold in 2014 for an undisclosed sum (believed to be in the tens of millions) to private equity firm Exponent whose new distilling division, Loch Lomond Group, is headed by former Diageo executives.
LOCH LOMOND 18 YEAR OLD
A perfect representation of Loch Lomond’s signature style, this single malt has been matured in three types of American oak casks for 18 years, creating its full-bodied and fruity character. The nose brings aromas of green apples, grapefruit, honeysuckle and rich oak, while the palate is filled with mouthwatering notes of baked apples, toffee, tobacco leaves and gooseberries, with gentle wisps of smoke lingering in the finish.
The Distillation Process
Loch Lomond Distillery operates a whisky distilling process unique among Scottish distilleries. Not just for the sake of standing alone, but for the quality and variety of the whisky it allows them to craft.
The Cooperage And Loch Lomond’s Unique Barrel Maintenance
Loch Lomond’s focus on quality is unwavering. The distillery owns its own cooperage, ensuring that barrel repairs and charring are carried out to an exacting standard so every cask is perfect for maturing the Loch Lomond spirit.
Coopering of casks is an age-old skill, the nuances of which have seen little change over the centuries. Loch Lomond is one of only four distilleries in Scotland to have their own on-site cooperage. Their team of seasoned professionals and apprentices carefully manage the quality of all of the casks to ensure that the whisky is maintained to the highest possible standards.
Loch Lomond 18 YO: The Whisky Exchange Whisky of the Year 2024
Since its founding in 1965, Loch Lomond has always defied expectations. Designed to be one of Scotland’s most versatile distilleries, it runs four different still types, allowing it to create an unparalleled variety of different single malts, grain whiskies and blends. For decades it was one of the great workhorses of Scotch, lesser-known in the wider world. But in recent years, the sheer quality of its whiskies has caused this once underestimated distillery to earn great acclaim around the world. A well deserved win for one of the rising stars of 21st-century Scotch whisky.
Loch Lomond 18 year old Single Malt is a perfect representation of their signature style; it has mouth-watering notes of baked apple and rich toffee with gentle wood smoke on the finish in the typical style of Loch Lomond Whiskies.
Aged in three types of American oak casks, Loch Lomond 18 year old is bottled at 46% and non-chill filtered to keep things as nature intended. This expression is brought together by Michael Henry, their Master Blender, whose signature on each bottle is his personal assurance of quality.
Choosing just one whisky to celebrate is never easy, but thanks to our panel of industry experts and the attendees at our judging event in London, we have whittled down a shortlist of six to just one: our Whisky of the Year 2024.
This year’s shortlist included whiskies from Scotland’s Highlands and Islands, a smoky red wine cask-finished single malt, a rich Speyside whisky and a fruity, coastal malt. After much deliberation the votes were cast and the winner was clear: the Whisky of the Year is Loch Lomond 18 Year Old.
A perfect representation of Loch Lomond’s signature style, this single malt has been matured in three types of American oak casks for 18 years, creating its full-bodied and fruity character. The nose brings aromas of green apples, grapefruit, honeysuckle and rich oak, while the palate is filled with mouthwatering notes of baked apples, toffee, tobacco leaves and gooseberries, with gentle wisps of smoke lingering in the finish.
BENRIACH SMOKE SEASON SPEYSIDE SINGLE MALT SCOTCH
In a similar vein to its immediate neighbours Glen Elgin and Longmorn, fruit is at the heart of the Benriach character, here manifesting itself as pears and peaches with an added aromatic top note. Vibrant when young, it matures well – especially in refill casks where fruits take on a more tropical edge and extra spiciness steadily develops.
Benriach Smoke Season is the release-sister to the Malting Season and like that release, its name is a nod to the history of the distillery itself. Back in the olden days of whisky production, HVAC systems didn’t exist, so when barley was dried, to halt the malting process, fire and smoke were employed. Peated whisky was common all across Scotland and not the perceived domain of Islay like it is today.
The peripatetic John Duff features here. The builder of Glenlossie and Longmorn wanted to establish a whisky-making fiefdom close to Elgin. His Longmorn distillery had been built in 1893, and having achieved early success he decided what was needed was another plant next door. In 1897, he built Benriach. Sadly, his timing could not have been worse. The Pattison crash of 1899, coupled with a downturn in the domestic market, saw a huge number of distilleries (many of which had only just opened) close down. Benriach was one of those, only running for two years before languishing in silence for the next 65, during which its large malting facility was used to supply Longmorn’s requirements.
In the latter years of the Seagram era, Benriach produced a smoky distillate for blending purposes. Current owner Brown-Forman has named this Benriach whisky for the seasonal practice of the distillery. Smoke Season was selected for a specific expression because Benriach sees only a single production run of peated whisky per year, a short run at that. They use malt that has received a strong smoking with Highland peat, and for this expression they drew entirely on that stock of spirit. However, the peated whisky was aged in a variety of American casks: ex-bourbon barrels, toasted new oak and charred new oak.
Dr. Rachel Barrie, Master Blender for all of Brown-Forman’s Scottish holdings, is behind this creation. Smoke Season is said to be the peatiest malt to ever emerge from Benriach at that.
THE TASTING NOTES: 70 Cl, 52.8% ABV, £53
ON THE EYE: Honey
NOSE: The nose is on the faint side, but the current of malty sweetness is immediately evident, this tinged with ash and charred oak. Smoke, orchard fruit, minerality (spirity), cinnamon pastry, a touch of honey and baseball card bubblegum. Part spirity, part smoky and part sweet.
PALATE: Smoke, toffee, minerality, oak, honey graham, vanilla taffy and a bit of churro, wax and honeyed malty sweetness. Bolder smoky delivery with less of the “spirity” essence and subtle richness. A quite silken mouthfeel, and a stronger presence than what the aroma brought out. The sweetness developes into a note of green apples. This is fast subsumed, however, by a rising tide of earthy, unflavoured but creamy oatmeal; and a mild, but nonetheless bitter wave of smoke. The finish turns woody, before running down into smoky again before dissipating.
FINISH: Med-long ; smoke, spice, toffee and dried fruit fade to a waxy smoked vanilla.
SUMMATION: Decent balance, medium body and a slightly oily feel. This is an expressive whisky, especially compared to the Malting Season, and good for several reasons like all kinds of odd and interesting notes; baseball card bubblegum or churro and one other that I can’t quite put my finger on. A specific candy or dessert, but I can’t remember exactly what.
Although the peatiest whisky to come from Benriach, this is hardly a smokebomb; it manages to combine a range of elements distinct from the more familiar smokers from Islay or the Highlands; it is unquestionably a Speyside malt. Keeping that in mind, peated malts from Speyside are still uncommon, and sometimes are not quite as distinguished as Smoke Session. Adding that to the price, and this Benriach single malt becomes a very worthy buy indeed. Benriach Smoke Session costs £53 in the UK and $75 in the US. All said and done, this is a good and drinkable whisky.
GLENDRONACH REVIVAL 15 YO HIGHLANDS SINGLE MALT
This is not a new whisky. It has been added as I think it is worth a re-read.
To be Scotch, it has to be made in Scotland. But that’s just a starting point—there’s plenty of diversity to the nation’s signature spirit, including single malts, which are made with malted barley, and blended scotches, whose mash bills include other grains.
The world of scotch is also evolving, with restless distillers nowadays playing around with various categories of the whisky, from heavily-peated smoke bombs to sherry-cask whiskies. There’s been a blurring of the lines in terms of flavour profiles, and there’s more experimentation going on. It’s exciting—it makes it more of an adventure for a novice who wants to start exploring Scotch.
The modern version of the GlenDronach 15 Revival is from distillate produced after 2002 and includes the use of ex-PX casks. The whisky making process has not changed at all since the now-infamous removal of the phrase “non-chill filtered” on the outer packaging of all standard range GlenDronach bottlings so we can assume non-chill filtration here.
HISTORY
The GlenDronach distillery has a rich history dating back to its establishment in 1826. Located in the picturesque Speyside region of Scotland, GlenDronach is nestled in the valley of Forgue, near the town of Huntly. Its name, “GlenDronach”, translates to “valley of the brambles” in Gaelic — a nod to the distillery’s scenic surroundings.
Originally founded by James Allardice, GlenDronach quickly gained a reputation for producing high-quality Scotch whisky. Allardice was known for his innovative approach to whisky making, emphasizing the importance of sherry cask maturation. This distinctive style would become one of GlenDronach’s defining characteristics.
GlenDronach distillery faced various challenges throughout its early history. During both world wars, resources were scarce and production was significantly affected. Additionally, changes in ownership and the economic downturn in the late 19th century also posed challenges for the distillery. In 1960, GlenDronach was purchased by William Teacher & Sons Ltd, which eventually became part of Allied Distillers. During this time, the distillery continued to produce whisky using traditional methods, including malting its own barley. The rich and full-bodied nature of GlenDronach whiskies, resulting from the use of sherry casks, remained a distinguishing feature.
GlenDronach distillery closed temporarily in the early 1990s due to economic challenges and a decrease in demand across the whisky industry. It was able to reopen under Allied Distillers in 2002, marking a revitalization that has since led to continued success.
In 2008, the BenRiach Distillery Company acquired GlenDronach, marking a new chapter for the distillery. Under the new ownership, GlenDronach shifted focus and expanded its range of expressions and showcased the depth and complexity of its whiskies. The distillery changed hands one final time in 2016 with an acquisition by the Brown-Forman Corporation, a US based spirits conglomerate that also owns Jack Daniels. Today, GlenDronach is celebrated for its exceptional single malts, including a core range of expressions ranging from 12 to 21 years old, as well as limited editions and special cask finishes.
PRODUCT
The GlenDronach distillery upholds a tradition of handcrafted techniques and devotion to the art of whisky making. The process begins with the use of natural ingredients, including the Highland water sourced from underwater springs in the Balnoon hills and locally sourced malted barley (the distillery no longer malts their own barley but instead purchases it already malted).
While the barley may be pre-malted, it still needs to be milled and ground into smaller chunks. Most distilleries have someone else do this step, but GlenDronach does still mill their own grains in their Porteus brand malt mill from the early 1900’s. From there, the grains are cooked in a copper mash tun and then fermented in traditional wooden vats made from Scottish Larchwood.
After fermentation, we now have a mildly alcoholic liquid which is then distilled twice in batches through the distillery’s copper pot stills. This process selectively captures the desired components from the liquid to get the flavour profile just right, and concentrates the alcohol within the liquid — a process which is assisted by the large and uniquely saxophone-shaped copper stills. Once distilled, the spirit is then filled into Spanish oak casks and placed in their dunnage warehouses to mature.
Central to GlenDronach’s craftsmanship is the marriage of their robust Highland spirit with the finest Pedro Ximénez and Oloroso sherry casks imported from Andalucia, Spain. This combination imparts exceptional depth, complexity, and character to their whiskies. The selection and care of the Spanish oak sherry casks are paramount, as nearly 70% of the whisky’s flavour is derived from the maturation process.
Throughout the lengthy maturation period, the dedicated distillery team carefully oversees the Single Malt whiskies, ensuring their optimal development. While this particular bottle was aged for 15 years, there are some offerings that are aged for 31 years! Finally, the master blender, Rachel Barrie, expertly selects and marries the whiskies, ensuring that each expression embodies exceptional depth, complexity, and character.
PACKAGING
The GlenDronach 15-year bottle features a label that goes beyond minimalism, offering a wealth of information about the whisky (for example, insights about the whisky’s age and other key details). While it may not have the sleek and minimalist aesthetic of some modern designs, the label’s focus on information aims to provide whisky enthusiasts with a comprehensive understanding of the whisky’s characteristics, production, and age — embracing traditional Scotch whisky labelling.
All of this comes in a sturdy cardboard tube, providing additional protection and adding a touch of elegance to the packaging. The distillery uses varied colors to differentiate across their lines of spirits while the rest of the the packaging remains consistent; in the case of this 15-year bottle, the color palette predominantly features green tones.
THE TASTING NOTES: 70 Cl, 46% ABV, Non Chill-filtered, £65
ON THE EYE: Reddish amber.
NOSE: Plums and figs, pencil eraser, clove, hint of licorice, cacao nibs, cherry compote, orange marmalade, Demerara sugar, walnuts, pencil eraser. Gentle sweetness and a subtle hint of alcohol, notes of brown sugar, molasses and coffee. Water brings out a bit of sharpness to the nose as well as damson jam and raisins.
PALATE: The dominant taste is coffee, partnered with the richness of dark chocolate. Dry spice first with clove, white pepper, and a little nutmeg, more walnut, lots of wine influence, clotted cream, honey, hints of earthiness, spicy oak. With water, more nuttiness and some additional baking spice.
FINISH: Big sweet sherry first followed by oranges, more plums, cinnamon, almonds, a light touch of peat and a hint of fresh mint at the end. The sweetness and oak remains for a good long while. Water adds some lemongrass, anise, and a touch of baked apples.
ON ICE
Ice has a tendency to alter the dynamics of whisky, and there is a sizable shift here. The coffee and dark chocolate flavours, which once took the lead, now fade a bit which allows other elements to come forward. With the dilution from the ice, there is a more pronounced presence of peat, lending a smoky and earthy character to the whisky. Alongside the peat, a subtle bitterness (reminiscent of coffee that has been left on the burner too long) starts to emerge. An intriguing twist to the overall experience.
Summation: GlenDronach Revival was the perfect name for a brand that completely reinvented itself under the guidance of Billy Walker. As the brand matured and eventually sold to Brown-Forman, the quality of the distillery’s products remains a talking point despite what I think has been a relatively consistent product line over the past five years. Rachel Barrie has seen to that. GlenDronach Revival is sherry dominated and a popular release among whisky fans who crave heavily sherried whisky.
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