WINNERS AT IWSC 2023

 The International Wines and Spirits Competition 2023

A LOOK AT SOME SCOTCH WHISKY WINNERS

Founded in 1969, the International Wines and Spirits Competition (IWSC) is an acclaimed annual wine and spirits competition. It has since grown to become one of the largest such competitions in the world. Spirits submitted for this competition are evaluated on a 100-point scale, and awards given based on the points obtained. Gold Outstanding represents (98-100 points), Gold (95-97 points), Silver (90-94 points), and Bronze (85-89 points).

This year, as many as twenty-four Scotch whiskies were rated 98 points or higher, winning Gold Outstanding medals. Of these two dozen entries, as many as twenty-one were single malt whiskies and the other three blended whisky expressions. The top-ranked Scotch whisky, scoring 99 out of 100 possible points, surprised most competitors and spectators alike.

THE WINNER: 

The highest-scoring Scotch whisky was Glenturret Triple Wood 2022 Single Malt Scotch Whisky. Historically, most of Glenturret’s production was slated for the Famous Grouse Blended Scotch Whisky. In recent years, the single malt offerings have expanded to include 7 YO, 10 YO, 12 YO, and 15 YO expressions, as well as its Triple Wood. The 7-YO and 10-YO expressions are both peated. There are also 25 YO and 30 YO expressions that are impossible to find and several limited-release bottlings. Details about the distillery are at this link. 

Basically, Glenturret is a small, farmhouse-style distillery that continues to use traditional methods of whisky production to this day, including hand-mashing and was transformed by owner Edrington into The Famous Grouse Experience in 2002. The water supply for the Glenturret comes via its own pipeline from Loch Turret which has its origin in Ben Chonzie. As the water used is stated as contributing much of the individual taste and character of the whisky, the purity and quality of the water are essential in the whisky-making process. Ben Chonzie is part of the Grampian Mountain Range and is a granitic intrusion, with a diorite composition. This geology has resulted in the extreme softness of the water of Loch Turret making it a suitable source for the whisky.

The IWSC judging panel described the Glenturret Triple Wood as a summer Turkish delight of sweet raisin, marmalade, and orange blossom aromas with a rich fruitcake palate, hints of brown sugar and honey, with a creamy toffee texture on the finish. Own notes are:

Nose: Porridge, coconut cream and maple syrup. Cinnamon latte. Crystallised pineapple chunks and coconut macaroons. Fresh quince and Bramley apple, with a hint of quince jelly (membrillo).

Palate: Medium. Stewed plums, apricots and spiced oat crumble. A little full-fat milk cappuccino. Ground nutmeg and clove. Wholewheat sponge cake and raspberry jam. Underlying caramel sweetness.

Finish: Medium-long, on that wholewheat sponge with jam and sweetened cream.

Comment: The fruitiness would make it a great afternoon tea accompaniment or for autumn walks setting up dinner.

              

Five peated Scotch whiskies received Double Gold medals: Talisker 30 YO Single Malt Scotch Whisky; The Balvenie, 19 YO Week of Peat Single Malt Scotch Whisky; East Asia Whisky Company 31 YO Bowmore, 1990 Mizunara PX Sherry Cask Finish; Bunnahabhain Moine 2004 Tokaji Finish, Single Malt Scotch Whisky and, interesting enough, the Loch Lomond 10 YO Single Malt Scotch Whisky. The last named is worth a closer look.

Loch Lomond 10 YO Single Malt Scotch Whisky

Loch Lomond was set up by its former owner to be Scotland’s self-sufficient distillery. Rather than playing the normal game of exchanging the spirit one made for fillings of grain and malt for one's own blends, it made all its requirements itself. That meant being innovative.

The original distillery held a set of pot stills with rectifying plates in their necks (also known as Lomond stills), allowing different flavour streams to be produced. With continuous expansion to date, especially the addition of more Lomond stills, Loch Lomond has the capability to produce 11 different distillates for its whisky brands (not including the spirit coming from Glen Scotia). Wine yeasts have also been used to help create different flavours. 

Loch Lomond 10 YO is only slightly peated. Aged to perfection in three types of American Oak casks - bourbon, refill and re-charred, the expression is a classic combination of spirit styles from Loch Lomond's unique stills to create the distinctive fruit, honey and soft smoke character only found in Loch Lomond single malt. An average price of around $30 makes it an outstanding value for one of Scotland’s top-rated whiskies. The IWSC Judging Panel described Loch Lomond 10 YO as featuring:

A fruit-driven nose showing tropical fruits, especially pineapple, combining with bonfire smoke aromas. Tropical fruits linger on the palate where the gentle smoke is integrated, ending with a vanilla sweetness in the finish. Good malt character, estery and fruity. 

The Bunnahabhain Moine, and the Bowmore 31 YO Mizunara Cask both underwent a cask finishing of several months in casks that previously held sweet wines. The Bunnahabhain Moine was described by the IWSC Judging panel as expressing:

Rich and savoury aromas predominate with underlying nutty notes and a touch of iodine, leading to a soft, sweet, smoky palate and a streak of salinity and finely-tuned tannins. “The perfect whisky.”

Interestingly, Islay malts-both peated and unpeated finish well in sweet wine casks used for finishing. They create an intriguing mix of smoky and sweet, dried fruit flavours, and the expression “barbecue whiskies” is quite apt since they would go well at barbecues or even make an ideal, albeit expensive, base for a barbecue sauce.

Among older, top-ranked Scotch whiskies, the Double Gold medallists included The Glendronach 21 YO Parliament Single Malt Scotch Whisky; Deanston 21 YO Sherry Cask Single Malt Scotch Whisky; Tomintoul 21 YO, Single Malt Scotch Whisky; Balblair 25 YO, Single Malt Scotch Whisky; and Pulteney 25 YO, Single Malt Scotch Whisky.

The Balblair 25 YO was described by the IWSC Judging Panel as exhibiting:

Warming first impression on the nose showing aroma characteristics of orange peel, blackcurrant, dried fig, dark chocolate, and oak influences shown as spice, nutmeg, and cloves. Full-bodied style showing balance with rich dried fruits and overall sweet indications; a woody finish.

The Pulteney, on the other hand, a whisky that typically exhibits a pronounced maritime influence, was described by the Judging Panel as showing:

A rich, sweet, and complex example with indications of maturity showing vanilla, honey, dried and exotic fruits on the nose and palate. Full-bodied style with oak influences shown as toast, dark chocolate, and spice, which keep on lingering in the finish.

The Glendronach 21 YO has been a perennial winner in international whisky competitions, winning Best Scotch Whisky on several occasions. Once little known, the brand has become increasingly visible and appreciated under the steady hand of Master Blender Rachel Barrie, a Master Blender since 2003, working with Bowmore, Auchentoshan, and Glen Garioch single malts before succeeding Billy Walker as master blender at Brown-Forman-owned BenRiach Distillery Company in 2017. There she assumed responsibility for the BenRiach, GlenDronach, and Glenglassaugh distilleries.

Unfortunately, its newfound prestige has also meant Glendronach’s price has steadily climbed. Gone are the days when you could pick the 21 YO for around $100. Today it will cost you three times as much.

The Balblair and Pulteney are lesser-known distilleries coming into their own today. They produce outstanding whiskies, as their IWSC recognition makes clear. Both expressions sell for around $500/750 ml bottle, an exceptional value considering that the average price of a 25 YO Scotch whisky is now approaching $1,000.

Several younger expressions also scored Double Gold Medals. These included: Craigellachie 13 YO Single Malt Scotch Whisky; Glenfairn Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky; Glenfiddich 15 YO Solera, Single Malt Scotch Whisky; Loch Lomond Inchmurrin, 12 YO Single Malt Scotch Whisky and Glenmorangie The Accord, 12 YO Single Malt Scotch Whisky.

Inchmurrin single malt whisky is an interesting brand, coming off the Loch Lomond stills, produced using those unique pot stills and producing a whisky that is typically lightly floral and grassy. Inchmurrin’s intensely fruity new make spirit, which evolves into the said lighter flavours of grass and flowers, is the result of a high cut point from a pot still equipped with rectifying heads at the versatile distillery in Alexandria.

Previously a bit-part player in the blends-heavy Loch Lomond operation, Inchmurrin has acquired a more significant role under the new ownership of Colin Matthews and Exponent Private Equity and is part of the still-developing Loch Lomond Island Collection malts range.

The IWSC Judging Panel described the Inchmurrin 12 YO as featuring:

Matured impression on the nose with gentle smoke, vanilla sweetness, red currants, and new season strawberry aromas shining through, combined with spice, chilli, and smoke on the palate where the fruity body complements the overall complexity with a long finish.

Given an unknown provenance, the inclusion of the Glenfairn Highland single malt Scotch whisky is a surprise, considering that it is available only at Tesco. Owners Goldenacre Wines deal with customers through Meta; the bottler is Macgregor & Ross (McGR). The quoted price for a 70Cl 40% ABV bottle is under £20. Amazon describes it as rich and enticing with aromas of moist fruit cake, marmalade, marzipan and roasted coffee; the palate is bursting with flavours of walnuts, ripe bananas, bitter chocolate and maple syrup. Incidentally, the owners have a trio at a total under £60, with a Speyside and ‘Islay’ bottling as well.

Since the label and carton did not provide too much data, it is believed that the Highland expression could be from Ben Wyvis, Dalmore or Fettercairn, with the latter being most likely. The Speyside could be from the Whyte and Mackay Group’s Tamnavulin. The Islay source is probably a misnomer and likely comes from Whyte and Mackay’s Jura. I think it's best to stay away from this trio.

In addition to the two cask-finished peated whiskies, five other, non-peated, cask-finished Scotch whiskies won Gold Outstanding Medals: Glen Moray Elgin Edition 10 YO Cabernet Cask Finish Single Malt Scotch Whisky; Glenmorangie Palo Cortado 12 YO Single Malt Scotch Whisky; Glencadam Reserva Andalucia Oloroso Sherry Cask Finish Single Malt, The Balvenie 21 YO Portwood Single Malt Scotch Whisky and The Scotch Malt Whisky Society 55.74 Crazy Flamenco Bravura Single Malt Scotch Whisky. The last named is identified by its code numbers 55.74, where 55 stands for Royal Brackla and 74 for the 74th bottling by the Society from that distillery.

The IWSC Judging Panel described The Scotch Malt Whisky Society’s 55.74 as a good balance of rich dark fruits with cereal notes, esters, and wood extracts on the nose combining with spiciness, figs, and bourbon cask influences on the palate where the strength of the alcohol comes through. A balanced finish ending with oak.

In the Blended Whisky category, three whiskies scored Double Gold medals: Chivas Brothers took top honours for its Royal Salute 30 YO Key to the Kingdom Blended Scotch Whisky and Royal Salute 62 Gun Salute Blended Scotch Whisky. Also taking a Double Gold Medal was Sassenach Spirits, Blended Scotch Whisky.

The Lomond Sassenach Limited Edition Blended Scotch Whisky

Ancient peaks, hidden glens and rising morning mist, fresh water and firm oak run deep in its veins. The Sassenach is an award-winning blended Scotch whisky from the Lomond stable, with a distinct character and smooth flavour, suitable for any occasion. Inspired by the highland landscape, the exceptional blend has an underlying rich character that rises to the forefront. A gem of a 46% ABV blend, it costs around £75, nowhere near its co-winners that can punch a real hole in your wallet.   

Nose: The citrussy nose is packed with clementines, apricot cake, raisins, caramel, a hint of cinnamon, almonds, and vanilla. Upon tasting, the Sassenach carries on from where the nose left it.

Palate: The taste delivers flavours of peach, apricot, honey and butterscotch. It is velvety smooth but distinctive leading to an unmistakable finish.

Finish: Sweet, with added flavours of almond, cinnamon and nutmeg.

Royal Salute was among the very first premiumized blended Scotch whiskies. The IWSC judging panel described the Royal Salute, 30 YO as exhibiting nicely weighted and complex with flavours of bacon fat and barbecue sauce. Sweet spices shine through with hints of geranium leaf, candied ginger, polished oak, and figs. Well balanced, with a lovely traditional character.

The 62 Gun Salute was described as showing old leather and polished mahogany on the nose with an intense sweet and spicy palate. Flavours of sultanas, dried figs, and nutmeg shine through. The finish is bright with some sugar and pineapple syrup. Outstanding.

The 24 Single Malt and three Blended Scotch Whiskies represent the best of the hundreds of Scotch Whiskies judged by the IWSC in 2023. Price-wise, they range from relatively inexpensive, under $50/750 ml, to very expensive. The Glenturret Triple Wood, which the IWSC judged the Best Scotch Whisky in the 2023 competition, retails for around £45.

There are plenty of whiskies to explore here for any pocketbook. If you do nothing else, grab a bottle of the Glenturret. There’s not much of it around, and at £45/bottle, it’s a fantastic value for the world’s best Single Malt Scotch Whisky.

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