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Wednesday, 15 February 2023

WHITHER SCOTCH WHISKY?

 TRENDS AND NEW WHISKIES FOR 2023


Another year of challenges, surprises, innovations, loss, and hope is where we start to look at what’s ahead for the New Year. Foresight and trends are generated through an understanding of our cultural ecosystem and what’s changing, what’s motivating people and all the adjacencies in the system that will give those changes momentum. This year we’ll identify the themes and forces pushing change forward in the Scotch Whisky Industry expressed through a few examples.

You’d think that almost three years of a pandemic would be enough time to adjust to new schedules and routines, but the upheaval, combined with other events, has stimulated change in sectors and product categories affecting many aspects of life. People, consumers, and citizens are still working out the details.

Food and Beverages: Sober-curious has moved to full-on sober for a growing number of consumers fueling NA bars, cocktails, and canned/ bottled drinks. NielsenIQ reports that “Between August 2021 and August 2022, total dollar sales of non-alcoholic drinks in the US stood at $395 million, showing a year-on-year growth of +20.6%.”

Whether it’s breaking the monotony of the last few years or an epic trip, consumers want to see, learn, and experience something new or discover what’s out there. Now, fun new technologies can help plan adventures, play with virtual worlds, or explore ancient history.

Alcohol: The beverage alcohol industry is constantly evolving as producers and distributors work to offer specialized products that meet the changing needs of customers across all segments. While decision-makers within the industry try to be data-driven, an excess or lack of data can make it difficult to spot specific consumer behaviour patterns and anticipate emerging trends. Brands that want to deliver value to their customers continue to wade through the data that is available to understand what lies ahead for the industry in 2023 and beyond.

Global exports of Scotch Whisky grew to more than £6bn for the first time in 2022, according to the Scotch Whisky Association (SWA). In 2022, the value of Scotch Whisky exports was up 37% by value, to £6.2bn. The number of 70cl bottles exported also grew by 21% to the equivalent of 1.67bn.

The Asia-Pacific region overtook the EU as the industry’s largest regional market, with double-digit growth in Taiwan, Singapore, India and China as the post-Covid recovery continued.  

While EU markets such as France, Germany and Spain continued their post-pandemic bounce-back with strong growth in 2022, India replaced France as the largest Scotch Whisky market by volume. Despite double-digit growth, Scotch Whisky still only comprises 2% of the Indian whisky market. SWA analysis shows that a UK-India FTA deal which eases the 150% tariff burden on Scotch Whisky in India could boost market access for Scotland’s whisky companies, allowing for an additional £1bn of growth over the next five years.

Beverage Industry Growth: When it comes to total consumption by volume, the alcohol industry continues to grow. The biggest shift has come post-pandemic as customers are once again able to enjoy on-premise beverage experiences. Despite the pandemic, the beverage industry experienced significant growth that is expected to continue, especially as new consumers are aged into the market.

In North America, the United States continued its recovery following the impacts of tariffs on Single Malt Scotch Whisky to again be the industry’s only market with exports valued over £1bn. Both Mexico and Canada also saw growth, underlining the importance of securing further market access wins through the renegotiation of the UK’s Free Trade Agreements with both countries.

How Fast is the Alcohol Industry Growing in the US? As of 2022, revenue in the alcoholic beverage segment reached $261.1 billion in the US. Between 2022 and 2025, the market is expected to grow by another 10.51% per year. The majority of revenue, $111.5 billion, can be attributed to beer sales. From a global perspective, China has generated the highest revenue numbers with sales of $319.8 billion.

Summary of the Scotch Market  

The export value of Scotch Whisky in 2022 was £6.2bn, up £1.68bn compared with 2021 and £1.28bn compared to 2019 (pre-pandemic)

The export volume of Scotch Whisky in 2022 was 1.67bn 70cl bottles (equivalent), up 291m 70cl bottles compared with 2021 and up 364m compared to 2019 (pre-pandemic)

On average, the equivalent of 53 bottles of Scotch Whisky are exported every second – up from 44 per second in 2021

Scotch Whisky was exported to 174 global markets in 2022

India overtook France to be the industry’s largest global market by volume for the first time - the volume of Scotch Whisky exports to India has grown by more than 200% in the past decade alone. India is the largest whisky market in the world but Scotch Whisky has just a 2% share of the Indian whisky market. The SWA believes that reducing the 150% tariff in India could increase the value of exports to the market by £1 billion over five years.

The United States recovered to reach over £1bn of exports – the first time since the 25% tariff on Single Malt Scotch Whisky was suspended (£1.06bn in 2019)

Bottled Blended Scotch Whisky accounted for 59% of value exports, with Single Malt 32% of all Scotch Whisky exports by value.

Top 10 Markets  


The largest export destinations for Scotch Whisky (defined by value) in 2022 (vs 2021) were:  

USA: £ 1,053m +33% (£790m in 2021) 

France: £ 488m +26% (£387m in 2021) 

Singapore: £316m +50% (£212m in 2021) 

Taiwan: £315m +39% (£226m in 2021) 

India: £282m +93% (£146m in 2021) 

China: £233m +18% (£198m in 2021) 

Panama: £203m +165% (£77m in 2021) 

Germany: £202m +36% (£148m in 2021) 

Japan: £175m +32% (£133m in 2021) 

Spain: £173m +46% (£118m in 2021) 

The largest export destinations for Scotch Whisky (defined by volume, 70cl bottles equivalent) in 2022 were:  


India: 219m bottles +60% (136m bottles in 2021) 

France: 205m bottles +17% (176m bottles in 2021) 

United States: 137m bottles +9% (126 m bottles in 2021) 

Brazil: 93m bottles +14% (82 m bottles in 2021) 

Japan: 75m bottles +33% (56 m bottles in 2021) 

Germany: 67m bottles +48% (46 m bottles in 2021) 

Spain: 67m bottles +39% (48 m bottles in 2021) 

Poland: 49m bottles +9% (45 m bottles in 2021) 

Mexico: 48m bottles +2% (48 m bottles in 2021) 

South Africa: 39m bottles +15% (34 m bottles in 2021) 

Regional Data


In 2022, Scotch Whisky exports by global region (by value) were:

Asia Pacific: £1818m +50% vs 2021 (29% of global exports)

European Union: £1596m +17% vs 2021 (26% of global exports)

North America: £1327m +32% vs 2021 (21% of global exports)

Central and South America: £737m +66% vs 2021 (12% of global exports)

Middle East and North Africa: £326m +74% vs 2021 (5% of global exports)

Sub-Saharan Africa: £204m +30% vs 2021 (3% of global exports)

Western Europe (ex EU): £146m +49% vs 2021 (2% of global exports)

Eastern Europe (ex.EU): £39m -18% vs 2021 (0.6% of global exports)

Category Data


In 2022, Scotch Whisky exports by category (defined by value) were:

Bottled Blend £3670m +43% vs 2021 (59% of global exports)

Single Malt £1986m +30% vs 2021 (32% of global exports)

Bulk Blend £190m +13% vs 2021 (3% of global exports)

Bottled Blended Malt £140m +22% vs 2021 (2% of global exports)

Bulk Blended Malt £130m +37% vs 2021 (2% of global exports)

Bulk Single & Blended Grain £58m +39% vs 2021 (1% of global exports)

Bottled Single & Blended Grain £19m +150% vs 2021 (0.3% of global exports)

THE NEXT BIG ALCOHOL TRENDS FOR 2023

Alcoholic RTDs with Natural and Herbal Flavours

The ready-to-drink segment, which includes malt-based, wine-based and spirit-based beverages, has been the fastest-growing portion of the market and is expected to grow by an additional 8% by 2025. For existing RTD brands, this means more competition and the need to innovate with new offerings. In 2021, RTD beverages were trying to appeal to the 25% of alcohol drinkers who were looking for low-carb and low/no-sugar options. However, this approach won’t be enough to maintain a competitive edge moving into 2023.

According to Sensient, millennials, who account for 62% of the RTD market, are now looking for RTDs that provide more flavour without sugar. Millennials also tend to be early adopters of trends, making it even more important to address this demand. Sensient also discovered that marketing labels like “Made with Natural Ingredients, “Unique Flavour,” and “Refreshing Flavour,” topped the list as the most effective in appealing to consumers and encouraging purchases. For these reasons, RTD brands are leaning into herbal, botanical, and citrus flavours that provide a subtly sweet flavour and the perception of health benefits.

Spirit Brands are Creating More Accessible Beverage Experiences

One of the alcohol trends in 2023 anticipates more consumers turning to spirits over beer, as they look for an experience that introduces them to new cocktails. Brands have to reach a delicate balance between offering something new without being too off the wall or intimidating. New spirits have to both be unique and familiar, which can be a tall order.

Many spirits brands are also leaning into the botanical and floral trend to create a well-balanced product that still provides the sense of something new and exciting. For example, according to Angie Kerns, who specializes in flavour profiles for Sensient, “Tangerine is a flavour that is recognizable yet slightly uncommon, but when you pair it with the emerging and somewhat nostalgic flavour profile of honeysuckle, it becomes more approachable to a wider audience of consumers.” In many ways, spirits and RTDs are facing some of the same challenges when it comes to flavour demands.

Classic RTD Cocktails Will Enjoy a Revival

Another 2023 alcohol industry trend expected to take root is a revival in interest in classic RTD cocktails, but this time with a makeover. As herbs and botanical flavours take over the industry as a whole, RTD brands are expected to incorporate these flavours into their classic cocktail recipes to provide a fun twist. These herbal and botanical flavours have created a real space for creativity even when it comes to age-old cocktail recipes.

More Sophisticated Low and No-Alcohol Products

Sobriety and health-conscious movements are driving the demand for more low and no-alcohol options. Currently, these products account for a 3.5% share of the volume of the market. However, this segment is poised for significant changes with the help of more sophisticated flavours.

According to Sensient, only 17% of those who consume low and no-alcohol beverages totally abstain from drinking alcohol. Most consumers in this segment, 58%, will actually switch between low, no, and full alcoholic beverages during the same drinking event. The same flavour trends that are being seen in spirits and RTDs are also influencing low and no-alcohol products. Consumers in this segment also want to be able to indulge while still experiencing a level of drink sophistication along with the health and convenience benefits.

Brewers Will Become More Experimental

Non-beer products dominate the emerging markets, but beer is still a steadfast product that appeals to a wide range of consumers. In the past year alone, 36% of consumers have reported that they have increased their beer consumption. Much like other segments of the market, brewers will need to continue to innovate when it comes to flavours. Moving into 2023, you can expect to see beers flavoured with chocolate, chilli pepper, and fruits for an adventurous beer experience.

2023 ALCOHOL MARKET TRENDS & FORECAST

More DTC Sales

Traditionally, wine has been the only type of alcoholic beverage that could be sold DTC in certain states. However, during the pandemic, many states relaxed their laws regarding DTC spirits sales and deliveries in order to prop up the industry. Opening this avenue to distillers made it clear that there are many opportunities for DTC sales, which empowered the push for DTC spirits sales to be managed similarly to the way wine is sold.

Currently, there are nine states plus the District of Columbia that allow DTC sales for spirits, and 46 states where DTC sales are sanctioned. The spirits DTC movement is looking to close that gap.

The Distilled Spirits Council of the United States is leading the charge for increased spirits DTC sales and working to change legislation. According to a 2021 survey, they have the support of the public. In fact, 80% of consumers polled think that DTC sales for distillers should be allowed.

Continued Increase in New Products

In recent years, there has been an explosion in new products hitting the market and this trend is expected to continue well into 2023. As an example, the distribution company MHW, Ltd has recorded an increase of 36% in new brand products just during the first six months of 2021.

A large part of this growth can be traced back to the federal excise tax relief program, also known as the Craft Beverage Modernization and Tax Reform Act. This program was designed to help both domestic and foreign producers create jobs by providing certain tax incentives for wineries, breweries, and distilleries. The program became a permanent fixture in 2020, which means that producers will continue to enjoy these benefits and develop new products at an unprecedented rate. 

Premiumisation will continue to be an Alcohol Trend in 2023

For over 15 years, premiumisation has had a huge impact on the industry and this trend will continue to shape the beverage industry in 2023. Consumers want to pay more to know that they are receiving premium ingredients and products that come with a story that highlights the who, what, where, when, why, and how of the brand.

Eco-conscious Brands and Products

The eco-conscious trend goes hand-in-hand with premiumization. Even younger demographics are willing to prioritize premiumization and eco-conscious characteristics. The focus is on quality over quantity and that includes shopping brands that are transparent about how their ingredients are sourced and what they are doing to reduce their impact on the environment. Today’s consumers are becoming more vocal about these sustainability issues and are holding companies responsible for their processes.

Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion (DEI)

Consumers also want to feel connected to brands through shared values. Increasingly, this means a focus on DEI, which means that companies are prioritizing representation, especially in leadership positions. This type of representation influences the company culture and ultimately what kind of products are produced. Everything from expanding flavour offerings to rethinking marketing and advertising strategies is now being done in a meaningful way to reach a more diverse and global audience.

Fastest Growing Beverages for 2023

As mentioned above, RTDs are the fastest-growing product category, with market share expected to grow 8% by 2025. From 2020 to 2021, spirits-based RTD experienced a revenue increase of 42%. This may have been helped by pandemic lockdown conditions, which drove up the demand for off-premise drinks. A consumer survey that was part of a larger market analysis led by the Distilled Spirits Council (DISCUS), found that about 66% of respondents occasionally or regularly consume RTD products.

Other spirits also experienced significant growth during this period, but nothing near RTDs. Here is a breakdown biggest growth in the USA according to the type of spirit:

Irish Whiskey – 16% growth

Single Malt Scotch – 14% growth

Even after lockdowns ended and customers were able to go out for drinks in bars and restaurants again, the convenience and quality of RTD products have continued to drive growth at a blistering pace.

NEW SCOTCH WHISKIES

January 2023 was a relatively quiet month in terms of new whisky releases, but one still saw some exciting new releases from some of the top whisky brands around.

GlenAllachie 2012 Vintage Cuvée Wine Cask Finish

The GlenAllachie has released its first whisky of 2023. The new scotch is a 2012 Vintage Cuvée Wine Cask Finish and is a 9-year-old blend of single malts finished in casks that once held four types of red wine: Languedoc, Recioto Della Valpolicella and two undisclosed Premier Cru Classés. Bottled at 48% ABV, The GlenAllachie 2012 Vintage Cuvée Wine Cask Finish will sell for £55.99 ($69).

The GlenAllachie unveiled its first whisky of 2023, 2012 Vintage Cuvée Wine Cask Finish. The 9-year-old whisky is a blend of single malts finished in casks that once held four types of red wine: Languedoc, Recioto Della Valpolicella and two undisclosed Premier Cru Classés.

The GlenAllachie said the Languedoc casks impart notes of “red fruits, sweet spices and garden herbs”; the Recioto Della Valpolicella, give flavours of “ripe cherries, coconut shavings, liquorice and raspberry coulis”; and the Premier Cru Classé wood imbues “blackcurrant, espresso coffee and wild truffle” notes.

“Cuvée” is a French term used to describe a wine blend composed of more than one grape variety.

After primary maturation in American oak ex-Bourbon barrels, the spirit underwent over 20 months of additional ageing in the various wine barriques within the distillery’s on-site warehouses. The casks were obtained from four fine wineries located in world-renowned regions in France and Italy by distinguished whisky maker, Walker, given his exceptional network of connections with niche producers.

After Walker determined the finishing period had delivered optimum influence, the whisky was skilfully blended to form the Cuvée Wine Cask Finish.

Bottled at 48% ABV (84°/96° proof), the 2012 Vintage bronze liquid is presented without added colouring and un-chill filtered; a philosophy the distillery proudly adopts across all its products.

Distillery Notes

Colour: Golden Bronze.

Nose: Bursting with orange blossom, espresso, maraschino cherries and honeysuckle, with hints of candied stone fruits, hazelnuts, lavender and cinnamon.

Taste: Waves of dark chocolate, redcurrants and burnt coffee beans, followed by crystalised almonds, blackberries and orange zest

Finish: Ginger and liquorice

About The GlenAllachie

One of Scotland’s few independently owned and managed distilleries, The GlenAllachie is led by industry veteran, Billy Walker, who boasts over a half-century’s tenure in whisky. With an emphasis on wood policy, The GlenAllachie’s cask budget for 2023 stands at an eye-watering £2.7m/$3.3m. With 16 on-site warehouses holding over 50,000 casks, they have end-to-end control of the maturation process.

The GlenAllachie focusses on quality over quantity, which is why they reduced production capacity from 4 million to around 800,000 Litres of Alcohol and increased the fermentation period to 160 hours for an ester-rich, fruity spirit.

They believe age and integrity matter, which is why all their whiskies carry an age statement and are bottled at a minimum of 46% ABV, natural colour and non-chill filtered for maximum flavour experience.

Bowmore Special Edition 18 YO For Chinese New Year

Beam Suntory, in partnership with Leo Burnett Singapore, has released a special edition whisky in anticipation of the incoming Lunar New Year. The Bowmore Islay 18-Year-Old single malt Scotch whisky features stunning new packaging which showcases the illustration of the Bowmore distillery, history and traditional Chinese elements.

The alcoholic beverage is being marketed to the public through different mediums, ranging from an increased retail dress-up at travel retail outlets across Singapore, Thailand and Taiwan. It will also be featured on digital screens at Singapore’s Changi Airport departure terminal. Social assets will also go live on a global scale while digital Ang Baos for the China market will be released via WeChat.

The illustration of the packaging, created with Singaporean illustrator Erika Tay Qi Yin, incorporates elements that define Bowmore whisky such as the distillery sitting atop waves, the barley, casks and smoke. The illustrations appear to burst out of the keyhole to symbolise a gateway into the history and legend that awaits within the Bowmore world. The design also features the dynamism and elegance of the water rabbit, this year’s zodiac animal, with the style taking inspiration from the traditional brushstrokes of Chinese paintings which focus on flow and fluidity, according to the release.

As this bottle is intended to be gifted, the company aimed at creating exquisite and authentic packaging for the Chinese New Year festivities. To do so, Beam Suntory partnered with Tay because she is known for her intricate level of detail, fluidity in her illustrations and a style that is heavily inspired by Chinese folklore.

As a Scottish brand that’s lesser known in Asia, this packaging concept allows the Asian region to gain the familiarity of Bowmore with the water rabbit as a guide. Inspiration came from Lewis Carroll’s Alice in Wonderland, where following the white rabbit leads one through a portal to discover an extraordinary new world. 2023 is the Chinese Lunar Year of the Rabbit.

The bottle is presented in an illustrated box that focusses on ‘reunions’ and aligns with what the Lunar New Year symbolises. The design includes an illustration of the Bowmore distillery sitting atop a swell of waves, with key elements such as barley, casks, and peat smoke all representing the features that define Bowmore whisky. Furthermore, the box features vivid depictions of the water rabbit, in a nod to the lunar calendar’s Year of the Rabbit. The design takes inspiration from traditional brushstrokes of Chinese paintings with a focus on flow and fluidity.

In a similar manner, Leo Burnett used the keyhole from the iconic Bowmore vault padlock as the gateway into the rich and mesmerising universe of Bowmore.

The 2023 special edition packaging for the Chinese New Year range features the core 12-year-old bottle available only in Canada, the 12-year-old Sherry bottle only in China and an exclusive global travel retail 18-year-old bottle. It will be on sale during the month of January leading up to the Chinese New Year. So far, Johnnie Walker was cashing in on the peculiar Chinese calendar for its Blue Label blends.

The news comes just months after Beam Suntory extended its partnership with global digital media agency M&C Saatchi Performance until 2024 after working together for a year. The company had previously appointed M&C Saatchi Performance to handle digital duties until April 2022 for key countries in Southeast Asia including Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam, Philippines, and Cambodia. 

The 18-year-old Bowmore Lunar New Year release has been matured in a combination of oloroso and Pedro Ximénez Sherry casks and is the second 18-year-old Bowmore Lunar New Year Limited Edition offered exclusively to global travel retail across Asia for a second year in a row. Lunar New Year and journeys are inextricably linked – as millions around the world embark on a journey home to be reunited with loved ones.

The 70 Cl bottle is at a relatively low strength of 43% ABV, priced around US$ 145-150.

According to the brand, the bottle offers a nose of dark chocolate, toffee and date oil. On the palate, consumers can expect notes of orange peel, peat smoke, coffee and macadamia nut. The finish is said to contain plenty of chocolate notes.

Chivas Ultis XX: Challenging Conventional Blending

Pernod Ricard-owned Chivas has introduced Ultis XX, a blended Scotch whisky containing five single malts each aged for at least 20 years. The Scotch whisky blend pays tribute to five generations of master blenders. The importance of this number can be seen in the five copper rings across the bottle’s neck.

Ultis XX is described as an ‘evolution’ of the brand’s original Ultis blend, released in 2016 as the distillery’s first blended malt whisky. The liquid honours five generations of master blenders by combining Chivas’ signature grain, Strathclyde, with five of the brand’s single malts: Strathisla, Allt A’bhainne, Braeval, Longmorn, and Tormore, all primary constituents of any and all Chivas Blends be it the 12, 13, 15, 18 or 25-Year-Old, in varying proportions. There are changes necessary for the Royal Salute and Chivas The Icon, removing Allt A’bhainne and Tormore and replacing them with Caperdonich, Dalmunach and Glentauchers single malts.

Ultis XX is the ultimate tribute to the five generations of master blenders who preceded the current Sandy Hyslop in dedicating their life’s work to mastering Chivas’ iconic house style. Each of the single malts used within this blend brings its own complexity to the whisky, just like each master blender brought his own unique style to the Chivas blend. With less than 01% of the millions of casks within their inventory used, and each cask individually hand-selected and nosed, Hyslop has ensured only the highest quality are included in a blend worthy of a celebration.

Adding XX to the Ultis name is a clear signal of the decadence that comes with the addition of a 20-year-old age statement and the complexity of flavour that whisky fans can expect from this premium blend. With this evolution, Chivas has once again reinforced the belief that whisky is the ultimate choice for a new generation of drinkers. As traditional conventions of blended Scotch are continuously challenged, Ultis XX takes pride of place as the pinnacle of their portfolio and the ultimate flex to elevate those ‘I’ve made it’ moments with.

Nose: The whisky was distilled exclusively in copper stills and presents aromas of juicy red apples, interlaced with raspberry jam, fresh vanilla pods and sweet butter toffee on the nose.

Taste: On the palate, notes of blossom honey, milk chocolate and poached pears in syrup are delivered, leading to a much-anticipated finish.

Finish: Long, sweet, and smooth.

Whisky Exchange Whisky of the Month February 2023

anCnoc 18 Year Old

The anCnoc brand came into existence just a few short years after Inver House Distillers bought Knockdhu distillery from United Distillers in 1988. Having brought the distillery out of mothballs, Inver House set about establishing a brand for its first Scotch whisky plant and changed Knockdhu- too confusingly similar to Knockando- to anCnoc [meaning black hill] to represent its single malt.

The first official bottling of anCnoc was released in 1993, although the brand never really took off until 2003 when it was relaunched with a 12-year-old bottling as its flagship. In the years that followed a series of vintages and age statements were released, and by 2013 the core range consisted of the 12-year-old alongside a 16, 18, 22 and 35-year-old.

While Knockdhu’s malt was renowned for its light, fruity style, the distillery has been producing a small amount of peated spirit for several years, which was finally released as part of a new collection in 2014. The peaty range comprises of Rutter, Flaughter, Tushkar and Cutter, all of which are named after peat-cutting tools and have been matured in ex-Bourbon casks for between eight and 12 years. anCnoc states the phenol content of all four, which ranges between 11 and 40 ppm, is based on the new make itself rather than the barley.

The retention of Knockdhu’s two originally-designed pot stills means Ancnoc’s signature fruity, citric and honeyed flavour is very similar in style to the whisky produced by the distillery more than 100 years ago. Ancnoc is matured in a mixture of ex-Bourbon and Sherry casks, while the final whisky is free of chill filtration and added colour, lending weight to the malt’s light fruitiness.

An 18-year-old single malt from anCnoc that has been matured in a combination of Spanish oak ex-sherry casks and American oak ex-bourbon barrels, creating a fruity, spicy character with rich undertones. The nose brings aromas of dried fruits and baking spice, ripe oranges, chocolate and oiled leather. The palate offers notes of fruit loaf, candied lemon, vanilla, honey, caramel, pepper and aromatic spice that linger in the finish.

DETAILS

Spirit: Single malt Scotch whisky

Distillery: (Knockdhu) anCnoc

Region: Highlands

Strength: ABV 46% 

Age: 18 years

Chill Filtration: No

Colour Addition: No

Available sizes: 70cl & 75Cl (USA)

Tasting Notes

Nose: Fresh apple – both sweet and gently sour – grainy vanilla fudge, freshly crushed malt, cooked sweetcorn and a touch of plasticine. Light fruity notes burst out of the glass when freshly poured, with darker flavours developing over time: candied lemon, pineapple, mango cream and dried tropical fruit trail mix slowly turn into flamed orange peel and raisins. Butterscotch sits behind, with spice and nuttiness growing over time, especially after adding a splash of water.

Palate: Sherbet-filled refresher chews and lemon-zest-sharpness to start, softening to toffee and spiced sponge cake. Dry cinnamon bark and ground cinnamon heat are joined by cracked black pepper and orange zest, with a background of stewed fruit.

Finish: Lemon, toffee and gentle spice. Cream and mango develop, making way for nutmeg, cinnamon and a gently dry lingering spice.

Overall: A whisky that does wonders with some time in the glass. Starting with the fruity anCnoc character that is shown mostly in the younger expressions, the two years in oloroso casks make themselves known after a few moments, with darker, richer and spicier flavours building but not overpowering.

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