No Age Statement Whiskies Make Their Mark

 GIVING AGE STATED BRANDS A RUN FOR THE MONEY

As a growing number of Scotch producers admit a scarcity of aged stocks, NAS (no-age-statement) expressions are becoming more prolific, with a number of exciting new bottles launched in the past 12 months. Controversy over the emerging trend of NAS Scotch whiskies has been bubbling for some time, with numerous producers and fans lamenting the supposed loss of quality caused by a lack of age declaration in Scotch.

By law, products labelled as Scotch whisky must have been aged for at least three years, but consumers across the globe often rate the quality of Scotch, and as such the amount they spend on it, by how old it is. However, some producers and connoisseurs have argued such prejudice could actually limit innovation in the industry, particularly in light of a demonstrable lack of very old liquid.

Despite widespread contention, one thing is clear, as old stocks shrink and experimentation is more generally accepted in the industry, NAS whiskies are carving a niche in the Scotch market. 

Most whisky drinkers look to the age of a given whisky as an indicator of its quality. Because of that tendency, many whisky buffs balk when they see a no-age-statement (NAS) variety of whisky at their local liquor store. Conventional wisdom suggests that, like fine wine, the more time whisky has to age, the better it tastes. Thus, these seasoned aficionados dismiss NAS whiskies as inferior, says Joel Hauer of Scotchwhisky.com 

There is more to the story than conventional wisdom may suggest. NAS whisky should not be confused with cheap, low-quality whisky; the opposite is more often the case. An exercise could be conducted to separate the facts about NAS whisky from the myths and garner how the increased presence of NAS whisky has opened up new avenues of flavour, aesthetics, and creativity for distillers, bartenders, and whisky drinkers in a holistic view.

Popularity of NAS Whisky: Whisky as a whole has seen a surge in popularity starting this millenium. Global population has increased; so have alcohol consumers. Demand is increasing in a non-conformal young culture that is looking for taste and satisfaction, not history. As a result, once-plentiful supplies of aged whiskies have dwindled. Because fewer aged whiskies can be found on the shelves, NAS whisky has become more common.  

The older generations might align with those accustomed to drinking aged whisky, but there’s no need to blame whisky neophytes for depleting supply. NAS whisky can be every bit as tasty and sophisticated as aged whisky, and it has open the floodgates for whisky distillers to experiment with new blends that can revolutionise the whisky-drinking experience!

Although NAS whisky has experienced a popularity boom in recent years, it’s actually been around for a long time. Almost all standard blends are NAS. The once-staid Johnnie Walker has more NAS whisky blends than age stated, and it has been around for a good while, with a proven reputation of being one of the world’s most popular whiskies. 

If one sees a bottle of NAS whisky, it possibly contains a blend of multiple different whiskies of different ages. Variety can inject the perfect amount of flavour into one’s glass. The increase in the popularity of NAS whiskies has given distillers and mixologists more liberty to innovate in creating different blends. Do remember, single malts are also blends. An NAS whisky may get diehard purists worked up, but it’s an opportunity for whisky fans to move beyond age as the sole indicator of quality. Why be constrained by a traditionalist mindset that doesn’t actually reflect the quality of your drink?

Advantages of NAS Whisky: Distillers have used NAS whiskies to their advantage. Blending whiskies of different ages enable them to focus on other aspects of a quality spirit. These special elements include things like colour, flavour, and technique. Increased attention to flavour never goes unnoticed by discerning drinkers, not forgetting the wider palate of colour and other new aesthetic avenues for distillers and bartenders. Perhaps NAS is just what single malt needs – an unfettered and creative space for distillers.     

Haig Club Single Grain: Haig Club is a new brand from Scotland’s oldest grain whisky producer, the House of Haig, which dates back to the 17th century, originally named John Haig & Co Ltd, whose family included Field Marshal Douglas Haig. David Beckham is being heavily featured in the promotion of the new Diageo whisky. Perhaps worth noting is the rather unique packaging of an electric blue square bottle, shaped to look like an expensive aftershave.

Grain whisky is a little different to malt whisky. Instead of barley being used as the source of sugary goodness, other grains are used – historically maize, but mostly wheat these days. It’s distilled in a column still, unlike the attractive copper stills seen on a distillery tour and postcard, and comes out at a much higher ABV. All in all, it’s cheaper to produce and grain whisky tends to be used in blends for the most part. But there’s been an eye-catching trend of late for single grain whiskies. The Clan Denny range from Douglas Laing, and Nikka whiskies are particularly good and worth checking out.

Glen Garioch: Highland single malt Scotch distillery Glen Garioch has made a bold move to release its first ever virgin oak-aged whisky. Aged in brand new American oak barrels, Glen Garioch Virgin Oak Single Malt Whisky will be a limited edition release with an “intense flavour” that’s “not for the faint hearted”.

It’s a malt for real aficionados and this exclusive small batch really makes its mark. Glen Garioch’s intense flavour means it holds up well in a new fill cask, allowing the liquid to be fully matured in virgin oak and not just finished in the barrel. Bottled at 46% ABV, the whisky is described as having notes of chocolate cake, treacle syrup and orange marmalade.

Their coopers used the inner heartwood of 100-year-old oak trees grown in the North American mountains.  Each oak barrel was heavily charred to activate the wood’s vanilla and oak spices in readiness for the maturing spirit, bringing its own unique woody tones to the malt. The final result is a fusion of vanilla, caramelised wood sugars and oak spices – a match made in heaven and a stand out for malt enthusiasts. Just 120 700ml bottle cases will be made available in the UK. 

Lagavulin Offerman 11 Yo Edition: Created in partnership with actor Nick Offerman, Lagavulin Offerman Edition 11-Year-Old Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky 46% ABV is a woody and peaty, fruity and spicy offering. The woody, peaty notes lead from the front, gently tingling the tongue in a cha-cha before fading to reveal a veritable waltz of sweet berry and orchard fruit notes. Aged in a mix of refilled and rejuvenated American Oak barrels, this whisky demands to be served neat in a traditional whisky glass, or with a little water for the faint hearted.

A very limited release Lagavulin, bottled for the U.S market only, this 11 year old Single malt has been matured in a mixture of refill and rejuvenated Bourbon casks. The whisky is said to carry the signature Lagavulin peatiness but with extra spices and notes of dried fruit to carry the smoke. The whisky offers a full-on tingle from the split second it hits your lips, with pronounced fresh berry character combined with spiciness. Elevated top-notes provide a more direct flavour journey than other Lagavulin expressions.

The Lagavulin distillery is said to be one of the oldest distilleries on Islay, founded in 1816. Miles and miles of peat bog in the west of the island provide the raw material which imbues the barley with their iconic smoky flavor, and the rich peaty water from the tranquil Lochan Sholum in the hills above the distillery makes the flavors so unique. It takes time, but patience is their finest virtue and rushing good whisky is just not how to take care of things in Islay. 

Oban Distiller’s Edition 2005/2019: The small seaside burg of Oban is home to one of Scotland’s oldest and coolest distilleries, also called Oban. It is the one Single Malt Scotch Whisky in which the rich, complex flavours of the Highlands meet and mingle with the peaty, maritime character of the Islands.

Balancing autumn fruits and sea air, Oban whisky owes its rich and rewarding Highland character to a very long fermentation process. The tiny lamp glass-shaped copper pot stills that make Oban’s Scotch are among the smallest in Scotland, and the liquor they distil is slowly condensed in wooden worm tubs outside among the rooftops, exposed to the salted sea air, bringing a distinct depth of flavour said to go very well with salted caramel.

Each year, the distillery releases a Distiller’s Edition that celebrates the fine work the distillers, coopers and blenders do every single year. This year’s single malt edition was distilled in 2005, matured in oak and then aged for six additional months in a Montilla fino cask (similar to sherry) for delicate yet rich fruit notes such as dried figs with honey and a hint of brine. Perhaps it’s the Spanish cask influence, but this Oban makes the classic vanilla cheesecake seem even more indulgent.

KILCHOMAN 2010 VINTAGE: Islay distillery Kilchoman released their first “age statement” expression this year, Kilchoman 10 Vintage. The single malt new make went into 42 ex-bourbon barrels and three oloroso sherry casks in 2010. After nine long years, the whisky was combined into a masterful blend of the good stuff.

Farm distilleries were by their very nature always self-sufficient and, while that is difficult these days with global demand for whisky on the rise, Kilchoman tried to stay true to that original model, rather than order maltings, but couldn’t cope.

It has two small malting floors and kilns which produce a medium-peated malt – the heavily peated with which it is mixed comes from Port Ellen. Inside the distillery, fermentation is long, helping to create fruitiness to balance the shoreline/shellfish-like phenolics, while an enlightened (and pricey) wood policy has seen a high percentage of first-fill ex-Bourbon and ex-Sherry casks being used. The result is that Kilchoman has hit the start of its mature period at a remarkably young age.    

Talisker 15 Year Old : A terrific Talisker 15 year old, this expression was distilled on the Isle of Skye in 2002 and released to form part of the eagerly anticipated 2019 Diageo Special Releases. This bottling is the first-ever release of “The King o’ Drinks, been matured in heavily charred American oak Hogsheads, which enhances the sophisticated, peppery peat smoke that Talisker always possesses. It brings deep, smoky island flavours, with sea salt, cut grass and rich treacle being accompanied by gentle citrus fruits and warming spices.

The final result is a Talisker that offers up notes of sweet iodine and kelp, sugared malt, toasted nuts, cinnamon, caramel, nutmeg, gentle peat smoke, red cherries, slight chilli, woodsmoke, ash, peaches, vanilla, cream, and rich charred oak.

Bottled at a very generous (and rather spicy) cask strength of 57.3% ABV, and without chill filtration or colouration, this is Talisker as it should be: intense, complex and coastal. The maritime nature of the whisky is reflected by its label, which features images of the briny depths. This label is keeping with the general theme of the 2019 Special Release: “Rare by Nature”. As with all Special Release whiskies, this is of the highest quality while also limited in numbers.

Glenfiddich Cask Collection: Glenfiddich is to introduce a luxury range of whiskies in collaboration with Baccarat, as part of its Cask Collection series in duty free. The first edition to be unveiled is the new Glenfiddich Cask Collection Finest Solera, a luxury NAS 48% ABV Malt that will be available for around £1,950. The expression was created by marrying whiskies matured in American oak casks for at least two months using Glenfiddich’s solera-vatting process. A 2,000-litre tun was used to hold single malt from 20 casks, with only half of the liquid removed at any time, before being replenished with fresh casks. With new casks used for refilling the solera tun, every batch will differ.

Glenfiddich Cask Collection Finest Solera is presented in a hand numbered and signed 70cl crystal decanter – complete with a copper stopper and neck collar, plus red cartouche made with 24-carat gold – hand-blown by French glassware specialist Baccarat. The expression, of which only 600 decanters have been created, is available in exclusively travel retail outlets globally. Glenfiddich now has many  NAS expressions in the Cask Collection comprising the Select, Reserve and Vintage Casks, all bottled at 40% ABV, plus the Experimental Series: Project XX at 47% ABV, IPA Cask Finish at 43% ABV and Fire & Cane at 43% ABV. 

The Glenlivet 14YO Cognac Cask Finish: Glenlivet, the leading single malt in the US, produces a wide variety of Single Malt ageings and cask combinations, with the remaining spirit an indispensable component in some of the most famous blends. Glenlivet issues a few fourteen year-old special editions here and there. There are almost always very limited runs — special casks, limited joint ventures and pleasant Single Malt experiments. When you see the "14" you can bet there’s a story behind it.

The story behind The Glenlivet 14YO Cognac Cask Finish started as a limited edition in 2018 called "Captain’s Reserve" — aged fourteen years in ex-Bourbon and Sherry casks, before finishing in ex-Cognac casks made of Limousin oak. In the arms race that is the modern whisky industry, it was surprising that it took this long for someone to crack out a brandy finish. We’ve seen everything from Chenin Blanc finishes to Mezcal finishes, and yet it took this long for a major market participant to put whisky in a barrel that had previously matured cognac.

The flavour profile was exceptionally well-received, so it has been renewed with a few tweaks. The Glenlivet released a special bottle this year exclusively for the U.S. market, The Glenlivet 14 Year Cognac Cask Select. This expression starts off by aging for 14 years in both ex-bourbon and sherry casks before going into high-end Cognac casks for six months of fine finishing.

The 14 year-old single malt is bottled at 40% ABV and is a straightforward by-the-numbers dram with a successful brandy finish. It tastes exactly like you’d expect it to – Glenlivet with an extra couple of years of maturation and a glazing of grape-forward brandy. For $40, that’s a slam dunk.

Glenmorangie: Glenmorangie’s single malts are acclaimed for their incredible smoothness, richness and intriguing complexity. Glenmorangie has the tallest stills in Scotland. Their long copper necks – the same height as an adult male giraffe – allow only the very finest vapours to rise to the top for a wonderfully pure and fragrant spirit, bursting with fruity, floral complexity. As this delicate spirit matures, the Distillery’s generations of expertise in wood is seen at the forefront. Their designer casks, created bespoke from hand-selected slow-growth American oak, have become a byword for excellence. They pioneered the art of extra-maturation – now widely used throughout the whisky industry – and have been experimenting with innovative wood finishes ever since. Even today, their Whisky Creation Team continues to challenge the bounds of possibility in single malt, as they seek to bring evermore wondrous whiskies to the world.

A very large proportion of their whiskies are NAS. They add to the famous core Glenmorangie range of The Original 10 YO, Quinta Ruban 12 YO, Nectar d'Or 12 YO, Lasanta 12 YO, Quinta Ruban 14 YO and the Malaga 12 YO. Add to these the exclusive to travel retail bottling of The Accord 12 YO, The Elementa 14 YO and the Tribute 16 YO and one has a range of superb whiskies that remain reasonably priced. The yearly release of an NAS whisky both supplements and compliments the core range.

Then come their award-winning whiskies in their Private Edition that consecrate the innovation for which the Glenmorangie Distillery is revered. Marrying skill with vision, pioneering whisky creators have designed a series of unique single malts that deserve to be shared with a select audience of Scotch whisky aficionados. As individual as they are rare, these experimental releases captivate the single malt collector. Sonalta (2010), Finealta (2011), Artein (2012), Ealanta (2013), Companta (2014), Tusail (2015), Milsean (2016), Bacallta(2017), Spios (2018) and Allta (2019) comprise this wide range of expressions.

The surroundings of the Glenmorangie Distillery are rich in heritage and legend. Their stories have inspired a collection of whiskies with innovative cask assemblages and intriguing extra-maturations, which bring the ancient provenance of superb single malts to life, for the travelling connoisseur.The three bottles that comprise the Legends Collection are the Tayne, The Duthac and The Cadboll.

Limited Editions: There are moments which deserve to be celebrated in single malt. Every so often, Glenmorangie’s whisky creators are inspired to bring such occasions to life, in memorable limited editions like the Astar 2009, A Tale Of Cake, A Mid-summer Night’s Dram 2015, Astar 2017 and A Mid-summer Night’s Dram 2017.

Glenmorangie Signet: This superb Glenmorangie was created with a marriage of whiskies produced from two unique types of malted barley: a single estate Cadboll variety and malted chocolate barley, better known as a basis for craft beers.

The Signet was distilled twice through Glenmorangie's copper-pot stills by a team of 16 distillers known as the 'Sixteen Men of Tain'. It was subsequently matured in bespoke American virgin oak casks before it was bottled at 46%, and received no chill-filtration. While it is NAS, it uses of some of the distillery's oldest and rarest stocks, 35 to 40 years old, in this Highland single malt. The Glenmorangie Signet is an outstanding whisky of unprecedented style and taste and won Whisky of the Year at the 2016 International Whisky Competition.

This edition takes it name from the ornate square design that adorns most Glenmorangie bottles. The signet itself originated from the Hilton of Cadboll Stone, a Pictish artefact that dates back to circa 800 AD.

The Famous Grouse: In 1980 The Famous Grouse became Scotland’s brand leader and still is, a remarkable four decades. It is also the leading blended Scotch brand in the UK. Sales rose steadily, and during the 1990s, The Famous Grouse grew by a staggering 25% – twice the rate of the premium Scotch sector.

Till date, The Famous Grouse has produced over 75 different whiskies, totalling in excess of 175 expressions, from 5 years old to 40. Only about 60 of these have age statements. The majority remain NAS expressions, which is normal for most standard blended whiskies. The brand also has sold a remarkably large number of blended malts, and a half-dozen odd single malts. Most of these have come after it was taken over by Highland Distillers which was then fully absorbed into the Edrington Group in November 1999.

The Famous Grouse Smoky Black: In 2006, the premiumised peated Black Grouse was released, essentially created for the Swedish market based on their taste preferences. In 2009 the distillery started working with some heavily peated malt. The specifications were for the barley to be peated to between 80 and 120ppm phenols, and the resulting spirit is called Ruaidh Maor (a hunting lodge at Loch Turret) to differentiate it from the regular Glenturret. In July 2015, while still retaining the traditional Famous Grouse bottling, the company rebranded The Black Grouse as The Famous Grouse Smoky Black. Neatly designed, the noble black grouse, otherwise known as a blackcock, Tetrao tetrix retains its haughty look of disdain, with a feather added to its neck. The initial years had the sleek black bottle clad in a crocheted overlay, with the feather sticking out cheekily.

The Black Grouse Alpha Edition bottle has a red cork like the eyecomb on the grouse and celebrates the annual lek, where hordes of male blackcocks strut about in full splendour trying to outdo each other and win over the watching and waiting female. The Alpha uses mainly Glenturret and Tamdhu single malts, with only traces of Highland Park and The Macallan. The expensive Alpha has a cork whereas the others use screwtops. Its ppm level is assessed as between 7-9. 

The grain whiskies are not bitter or overly sweet.  They are counter-balanced by the peated malt of the Glenturret. Priced at circa £20, Smoky Black is at the lower end of the market for whisky, but for a blend a little more lavish, it has more character than most of the blends with the same price tag. Such blends remain a very popular option for those who enjoy whisky yet cannot splash out on single malts every week.

Ardbeg Supernova 2019: The Ardbeg distillery was founded in 1815 by John Macdougall on the island of Islay. As with many other distilleries there have been a number of owners over the years and a lot of ups and downs. One thing has remained consistent, the name and the unique letter A that’s been trademarked. 2019 brought to the retail market a limited release of Ardbeg Supernova. Said to be the peatiest whiskey in the Ardbeg line up, it has been described as a “peat bomb” or “peat explosion.” Its last version was seen on retail shelves back in 2015. This single malt whisky matured in ex-bourbon barrels is 100% malted barley sold as a limited release in October 2019.

Ardbeg feels a little different. It has a stronger more rugged brand and when one thinks of Islay, then Ardbeg springs to mind. The 10-year-old with a good batch is simply hard to beat when its on form, as is the Uigeadail.

The Committee Supernova from 2019 is bottled at 53.8% ABV; it is non chill-filtered. Once you’ve broken that seal, then you’re set for an enjoyable punt with its contents. This year’s limited edition bottling, Ardbeg Supernova 2019, will change your sensory perceptions of what whisky can be. It’s a full body peat that wafts into your nose. The smell is quite voluptuous, strong, yet pleasant. But its not a “knock your socks off” smoky peat smell nor is it acrid. For a Scotch, the smell seems very balanced between peat and sweetness which seems weird for the being the peatiest whisky brand. An Ardbeg of stellar proportions, this dram is an abduction of the senses. Enter the realms of sweet treacle toffee, navigate thick clouds of aniseed, menthol and soot, before finally re-emerging through a dense nebular of peat and smoke. Whisky will never be the same again.

The Macallan New Limited Edition Distill Your World Bottling:

 

The Macallan Distilll Your World, 03 Nov 2020: The Macallan's Whisky Maker Steven Bremner and globally renowned chefs the Roca brothers, owners of 3 Michelin star El Celler de Can Roca, embarked on a journey of discovery to find the very heart and soul of London, unearthing its vibrant community spirit and uncovering the unique flavours and scents that define London. Limited to 2,000 bottles, The Distill Your World London Single Cask is exclusive to specific bars within London and The Macallan Estate.

This edition (57.5% ABV) is a non-age-stated single malt Scotch whisky, which has been produced using a combination of six first fill European oak Oloroso sherry seasoned casks.

The Macallan Distill Your World series, is the next step in the brand’s long-standing partnership with the Roca brothers. They have previously worked together on a range of ventures, including The Macallan Edition No.2 which was inspired by the brothers’ distinctive and dynamic characters.

The London Edition comes housed in a presentation box featuring a triangular engraving design to represent the map of London and red detailing inspired by the city’s red bricks.