BARREL SERIES FROM TAIN

 GLENMORANGIE MOVES INTO BARREL RESERVE WHISKIES

The attention paid to its pioneering work in wood management has resulted in Glenmorangie’s distillation regime being slightly overlooked. Not that anyone is complaining as this distillery sells the most Scotch single malt whiskies in Scotland. With LVMH taking over, price points are being raised to create exclusivity, which might go against the Tain hub. But there's enough variety to go around..

Situated next to the Dornoch Firth in a series of handsome red sandstone buildings, the Glenmorangie distillery started life as the local brewery for the town of Tain. In 1843, William Matheson converted it to a distillery and it remained in the family until 1887, when it was sold to the Glenmorangie Distillery Co, co-owned by the Maitland brothers and Duncan Cameron.

After WWI, the business was sold to a partnership between two blending and broking firms, Macdonald & Muir and Durham & Co, soon passing entirely to the former, which used the whisky for blends such as Highland Queen. Although it was bottled in small quantities from the 1920s, a change of strategy in 1959 saw Glenmorangie revived as a single malt that soon became Scotland’s biggest seller.

This was not the first time that this had happened, however. Records show that at the end of the 19th century, Glenmorangie was being sold at The Savoy and other top-end London hotels, as well as being exported. Early success in the infant single malt category resulted in two more stills being added to the original pair in 1976, a number which was doubled again in 1990. In 2009, four more were added, along with a larger mash tun and extra washbacks.

In December 2004, French luxury goods firm Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy (LVMH) bought the firm (along with Ardbeg) for £300m. More recently, extra warehousing has been built, the result of a decision to mature and vat all the production on-site.

In January 2018, it was announced that a new stillhouse would be built, housing two more of Glenmorangie’s distinctive, long-necked stills, plus a new mash tun and washbacks. The new facility will enable more experimental runs, with indications that innovations such as the use of stainless steel condensers will be explored.

The process at Glenmorangie starts with mashing unpeated barley with water from the distillery’s Tarlogie Springs – making this one of a small number of hard water sites in Scotland. Although there is no smoke, once a year some chocolate malt is added to the mash for use in the firm’s Signet brand – another of the distillery’s many innovations.

Fermentation is long, while distillation takes place in the tallest stills in Scotland, all of which retain the same long-necked design of the pair which were brought from John Taylor’s gin distillery in 1887. This extra height allows a long interaction to take place between alcohol vapour and copper and, while the new make is decidedly high-toned (the cut points here are quite high), there is still a little note of cereal, adding a dry counterpoint.

The vast majority of Glenmorangie’s make is aged in ex-American oak casks, many of which have been made to the distillery’s exacting specifications: slow-growth American white oak from north-facing slopes in Missouri, which is then air-dried. The firm’s Astar bottling uses 100% of these ‘bespoke’ casks.

The casks are only used twice, with the second-fill casks all ageing in damp ‘dunnage’ warehouses to increase oxidative-driven flavours. As the whisky matures, it picks up more lush fruits, some honey and mint, as well as notes of vanilla, crème brûlee and, in the oldest expressions, chocolate.

Some of the mature spirit is then transferred to ex-fortified wine (Port, Sherry) and still wine (Sauternes, Burgundy, Super-Tuscan etc) casks for a period of finishing. Glenmorangie was one of the pioneers of this technique. Now it is experimenting-successfully, I must add-with Barrel Finishing, using casks that last held Cognac, Palo Cortado, Amontillado and Malaga within.

PRIVACY POLICY

CADBOLL SETS THE PACE

 GLENMORANGIE'S NEW ADDITIONS 

THE CADBOLL ESTATE LEADS THE PACK WITH A 2019 TRAVEL EDITION

Most Scotch whisky is made from ingredients that seem mass produced and fetched into the distillery. It’s inside where the wizard does his magic. There’s undeniably a bit of artistry and craftsmanship that goes into the process, transforming those raw ingredients into the spirit that will eventually grace the shelf… but there’s also something to be said for a whisky that is 100% local, with grains and water from the distillery itself. And that’s exactly what the Cadboll Estate is for Glenmorangie:a 100% locally-produced expression from their own facility.

Like most distilleries in Great Britain, the Glenmorangie distillery halted production between 1931 > 1936 and between 1941 > 1945, but was back to full capacity by 1948. Within just a couple of years, the demand had dramatically increased and in 1977 the distillery doubled its capacity from two stills to four, and doubled again in 1990 to a total of eight. In the 1980s, the distillery purchased 600 acres of land surrounding the facility to preserve their water supply.

Throughout all this history, the Macdonald family had retained ownership of the distillery; but in 2004, the French spirits company LVMH Moët Hennessy – Louis Vuitton SE purchased the distillery outright. Until this point, the company had focussed on their flagship spirit, but the new owners brought redesigned curved bottles and the desire to experiment with different flavours and barrels for aging their spirit.

Glenmorangie has been the best selling single malt in Scotland since 1983, and globally they hold 6% of the total single malt whisky market.

Glenmorangie’s Cadboll Estate Scotch whisky is about as local as you can get. What makes it so unique is that this expression uses only barley that is grown and harvested from Glenmorangie’s own estate farms, which are malted and cooked using water from the local Tarlogie spring that runs through the nearby hills.

After fermentation, the wort and then the wash is distilled in the tallest pot stills in Scotland. Standing at a towering 26 feet high, there are two reasons why this is important: first, the height ensures that only the lighter (and sweeter) compounds make it over the top and into the collection barrels. Second, the added journey also exposes those vapours to the copper in the still for a longer period of time which (through a chemical reaction with the copper) strips out more of the offensive sulphur compounds.

For the maturation process, Glenmorangie actually has a unique arrangement to source their barrels. Famous distilleries like Jack Daniels and Heaven Hill don’t actually buy their barrels — they simply lease them from Glenmorangie. The charred oak barrels are used to mature American bourbon for a period of a few years before being shipped over to Scotland for the real reason they were built. The barrels are filled with a neutral grain spirit for a few years to mellow out the flavours and extract some of the American bourbon from the wood, and once that process is complete, the barrels are filled with Glenmorangie’s whisky and allowed to finally start the ageing process.

PACKAGING

The bottle is tall and slender —taller than most other whiskies, much like the unique stills. The bottle has a flared base with an inwardly curved waist that flares again at the shoulder. From there, it’s a gentle slope up to the long neck, and the whole thing is capped with a plastic and cork stopper.

While the label is rather large, it thankfully isn’t that distracting. The royal blue colour of the label beautifully pairs with the golden spirit within, almost giving it the appearance of a French aristocrat. On that label is the bare essentials of information, and the shiny embellishment on the edges and in the design in the middle of the label is tastefully accomplished.

While I appreciate the size of the bottle, and the purpose that it serves (standing out on a bar or store shelf), it makes placement a touch difficult. It’s about the same size as a normal wine bottle instead of the typically shorter and stouter whisky containers — so getting it in and out of its spot in the whisky cabinet can be a struggle.

In general, Glenmorangie tends to be a bit richer in colour than other similar spirits. In this case, that warm gold colour is definitely on full display. E150a is certainly used in this chill-filtered 43% ABV edition.

The aroma coming off the glass is definitely on the lighter side of the spectrum, without any peat smoke or much heavy ageing going on. There is some honey and flower blossom right up front, a bit of fresh melon, and some oatmeal-like cereal with brown sugar in the background. One gets some nutmeg spice that adds a good bit of depth and texture.

Taking a sip, the first thing I notice is something that wasn’t really there in the aroma: lemon citrus. Specifically lemon zest — that aromatic and bright flavour you get in the peel. That flavour develops and incorporates some of the other components we saw before, like the honey, flower blossoms, melon, oatmeal, and brown sugar. That nutmeg we saw earlier has also expanded a bit, adding in some cinnamon and other baking spices to make this almost like a spiced sugar cookie by the end.

A light and floral spirit with delicate flavour components won’t stand up to some ice. The cold and the dilution usually only leave the richer and darker aspects behind, and with a nicely balanced spirit like this that can often be a bit of a problem. Ice is a no-no.

This is a spirit where the context makes all of the difference. Glenmorangie makes some amazing stuff for their standard line of Scotch; there are some additional tricks and twists in this bottle compared to their normal fare, but not enough to warrant the price tag of £85 on its own.

THE SECOND EDITION

The whisky follows in the footsteps of its predecessor insofar as its materiel is concerned. But it is no longer an NAS bottling. It is matured for 15 years (or more) in the most common cask type used in Scotland, ex-bourbon barrels. No finishes, chill-filtered, no peat, no twists of any kind really, as it is bottled at pretty average 43% ABV. Thus, Cadboll Estate Single Malt 2^nd Edition is a very straightforward presentation of The Glenmorangie’s own barley, made into whisky.

This particular release is Batch 2 ex-2020 and only available in North America and Mexico. If you’re familiar with the original Traveller Release Cadboll don’t draw any immediate comparisons, they’re quite different whiskies.

The global travel retail version was a combination of ex-Bourbon and ex-Wine (Muscat and Sémillion) casks and drew its name from the Cadboll cup, a precious 16th century silver wine cup owned by the MacLeods of Cadboll, who created Glenmorangie House. This enigmatic wine cup, which entwines Scottish artistry and mysterious French influences in its design, was treasured for generations at its Highland home. That shared heritage is celebrated in a whisky of tempting, dessert-like flavours, which wonderfully hint at the sweet wines of the past that the Cadboll Cup might once have held. I was able to try the NAS GTR version at a special tasting so I could compare this with my notes on Batch 2 despite them being so different.

The Scotch

A pour of this Glenmorangie has a colour straddling the border between gold and copper. The scent is sweet with licorice laid into a tall glass of orange cream and vanilla soda, enjoyed in a field of late summer, cut and dried straw awaiting baling. A sip reveals a creamy mouthfeel, and a flavour profile that builds on the nose by adding a note of sweet, wet tobacco leaf and sees the citrus fruit transition to pear syrup. Those sweet aspects fade away altogether, with the dry straw evolving into dry, spicy wood on the finish.

The Tasting Notes

Colour: Light honey

Nose: Honey, malt, vanilla cake, orchard fruit, banana pudding, caramel, Nilla Wafers and a touch of nuts and nutmeg. That is one heck of a nice aroma. Warm and inviting, I could sniff it for hours.

Palate: Vanilla cake, banana pudding, nutmeg, honey graham, dried fruit, roasted nuts, light baking spice, malt and frosting sweetness. The aroma was nice, but the palate is the STAR. This is quite delicious.

Finish: Medium. Banana pudding, honey graham and spice fade evenly.

Balance, Body and Feel: Great balance, med-full body and a lightly oily warm feel. The GTR and this 15 YO Cadboll are very different whiskies, but since they share the same name, I feel the need to say I’d pick this over the GTR any day. This is good.

THE THIRD EDITION

Aged for 15 years, the third batch of Glenmorangie The Cadboll Estate brings a nutty and spicy twist to the series’ award-winning flavour.

Each release in the series begins in the Distillery’s own barley fields located on the Cadboll Estate, planted and harvested to Dr Lumsden’s specifications. This Cadboll barley is then mashed and distilled in the towering copper stills (as tall as an adult giraffe to allow for a more elegant taste and aroma), to bring forth a uniquely delicious spirit.

With notes of nuts and sweet spice in mind, Dr Bill selected spirit created from two separate barley harvests and aged it in American oak bourbon casks to enhance those creamy depths. Then, picturing notes of hazelnut, toffee and clove, he finished a small portion in casks which once held Amontillado, his favourite style of sherry. After 15 years, Dr Bill reunited these whiskies in this series’ delicious third batch release; threading hints of toffee and spice around honeysuckle, peaches and cream.

The third batch release of Glenmorangie The Cadboll Estate has been aged in bourbon casks, with a portion finished in Amontillado sherry casks (Dr Bill Lumsden’s favourite type of sherry).  This 15-year-old whisky entwines notes of hazelnut, toffee and clove, bringing a nutty, spicy twist to the series’ signature creaminess.

The Tasting Notes

Colour: Deep Ochre

Nose: Wonderfully aromatic and fragrant, with touches of honey, hazelnuts, mandarin oranges and soft, sweet toffee. This is then followed by top notes of sweet ripening barley, followed by baked peaches. A splash of water releases some flinty minerality, along with honeysuckle and jasmine flowers.

Palate: A gently spicy mouthfeel leads into a burst of sweet and spicy flavours –heather honey, gingerbread, hazelnut praline, fudge, toffee and a touch of clove. The Amontillado cask derived nuttiness is always present, but always gently integrated into the other, sweeter flavours. The lingering aftertaste has touches of almond marzipan and coconut, and finally a suggestion of baking fruit loaves.

Finish: Gloriously creamy and spicy, with notes of gingerbread, hazelnuts and toffee.

GLENMORANGIE’S BRAND MASCOT

Glenmorangie are proud supporters of the Giraffe Conservation Foundation (GCF) and its mission to secure a future for all giraffe populations in the wild.

Creators of single malt whisky since 1843, Glenmorangie’s affinity with the giraffe begins with the copper stills in which it creates its light yet complex spirit. The tallest in Scotland, these stills have necks the same height as an adult male giraffe, which has led to this majestic creature being adopted as a symbol of the brand. By supporting giraffe conservation, the Highland Distillery is deepening its commitment to the animal’s future.

The giraffe has long been a beloved symbol of the Highland Distillery. The same height as a giraffe, their stills allow more space for taste and aroma, which is why Glenmorangie’s spirit is so wonderfully delicate and fruity. But the giraffe faces threats in the wild, from habitat loss to poaching. Numbers have fallen by over 30% in just 35 years, with some populations classed as critically endangered. Recognising that few people are aware how great a threat the gorgeous giraffe faces in the wild, Glenmorangie forged a pioneering conservation partnership in 2020 with the Giraffe Conservation Foundation (GCF) and the Royal Zoological Society of Scotland (RZSS).

The new Glenmorangie Cadboll Estate release is freely available in the UK for an RRP of £75. Sadly, this release is also chill filtered and bottled at 43% ABV. That said, Glenmorangie celebrates the joy of delicious single malt in every part of its universe, from its boutique hotel Glenmorangie House to its colourful brand campaign and its tagline “It’s Kind of Delicious and Wonderful.”

About The Cadboll Estate Series

This unique series of field-to-glass whiskies was created to share the spirit and flavour of Glenmorangie’s ruggedly beautiful, yet remote homeland with whisky lovers old and new. It began with the first release of Glenmorangie The Cadboll Estate in 2020, a deep and creamy single malt distilled in 2004 and aged in first-fill American white oak bourbon casks. The second release was named Best Single Malt 15 Year Old at the International Whisky Competition (IWC) in 2021 and won a double gold medal at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition (SFWSC), and gold at the International Spirits Challenge (ISC) that year. The silky richness of the second batch, distilled in 2005, wonderfully reflected the subtle changes each year brings to the Highlands. The nutty, spicy and creamy notes of the third batch are a deliciously sherried take on the series’ style. What’s more, Dr Lumsden is already dreaming up further whiskies for the single-estate series. So whisky fans can look forward to enjoying further delicious tastes of Glenmorangie’s home, even if they are yet to explore the Highlands in person.

AND THEN THE NEW ONES

X By Glenmorangie:

In pursuit of new flavour combinations, Lumsden has crafted the perfect single malt whisky for mixing. Paired with your favourite mixer, X by Glenmorangie creates effortlessly delicious drinks.

X by Glenmorangie is notable for two reasons: it was purpose-built for mixing and is a core release from a major distillery priced under $30… Really? That seems like a deal too good to be true in this insanely priced whisky market we’re in. Makes one a bit wary. Can something priced like this taste good? Can it actually be a good deal?

The X’s raison d’etre is to be mixed and one can say it easily fulfills that purpose. Under that singular perspective of being built for mixing, the price is perfect and it really is a good mixing whisky. But this isn’t truly a cocktail site, it’s a whisky site, and so we need to look at just the liquid itself. Which brings us to a different, singular perspective, with one major question: how is it for sipping?

Colour: Honeyed butterscotch

Nose: Malt, graham, vanilla and citrus with bits of sweet dried fruit, banana and oak. Soft and simple, it’s a whisky that’s easy and unassuming, but not bad.

Palate: Graham, vanilla frosting, dried apples, bananas, honey and a bit of oak. As it opens a touch of cocoa and nuttiness peeks out, but it’s mostly just dried fruit on graham.

Finish: Short. Malty and fruity fade to a light graham.

Balance, Body And Feel: Decent balance, light-body, light watery feel.

Overall: If you’ve been looking for the most average yet approachable and sippable whisky on the market, this is it. It’s not complex, it’s not deep, but it doesn’t have anything inherently wrong with it either. It’s simple yet pleasant.

In fact, sipping isn’t its true nature. The X by Glenmorangie was designed for mixing… It’s a good, average, workhorse whisky that’s inoffensive and sippable – exactly as it was designed to be.

A Tale Of The Forest:

Using an ancient method of infusing barley with woodland botanicals. Lush and invitingly herbaceous, A Tale of the Forest is Glenmorangie’s first whisky crafted from barley kilned with woodland botanicals.

Inspired by the ever changing natural wonder one encounters while wandering in the forest, Dr Lumsden brought back an ancient method of kilning barley with botanicals. In this case, he chose juniper berries, birch bark and heather flowers.

Evoking the scents, sounds and sights of the forest, the single malt surrounds your senses with aromas of pine, juniper and coriander, laced with wisps of smoke. Then tastes of deep-green eucalyptus, lit by rays of bitter orange, drift to a slow, gently oaky finish.

The whisky’s fragrant, wooded depths have inspired illustrator Pomme Chan to dream up her own fantastical forest. Celebrating the whisky’s flavours, her artwork is showcased on the whisky’s pack.

Tasting Notes:

Colour: Gold

Nose: A bouquet of pine, juniper and coriander, along with roasted chestnut and an intriguing whisper of smoke.

Palate: Flavour explodes in the mouth. Whirls of peppermint. Bursts of eucalyptus. Rustles of bitter orange. All floating on clouds of vanilla with intriguing hints of black liquorice.

Finish: A slow and luscious finish featuring lemon, orange and a soft hint of oak.

Glenmorangie Palo Cortado:

This deeply sweet and nutty small-batch release is the first Glenmorangie ever to be finished in rare Palo Cortado sherry casks. Aged for 12 years, it brings a new elegance to the Highland Distillery’s delicate style.

The single malt spent its first eight years mellowing in American white oak bourbon casks. Then, delighted by that whisky’s smooth, soft character, Dr Bill was inspired to finish a select batch in Palo Cortado casks, never before used at Glenmorangie.

Palo Cortado is the rarest variety of sherry, created purely by chance, when the protective ‘flor’ yeast does not form on sherry intended to become Amontillado. Enchanted by Palo Cortado’s sweet and nutty flavours, Dr Dr Lumsden sourced a handful of its casks, which are incredibly hard to come by. He filled them with the whisky, imagining the unparalleled depth and complexity they might bring Glenmorangie. Finished in these deliciously wonderful casks, Dr Lumsden’s creation developed all the rich elegance he had dreamed of.

Uniquely complex and nutty, it layers dark plum depths with milk-chocolate richness, Brazil nuts and sweet spice.

Aged 12 YO (first matured in Bourbon casks then finished 4 years in Palo Cortado Sherry Casks), it is different from the core range, which spend ten years in Bourbon casks.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Burnt Amber

Nose: Rich, elegant and rounded. Toffee, fudge and vanilla sweetness entwine with mossy notes and mulled wine hints. Then come scents of honeyed ginger and milk-chocolate truffle dusted with cinnamon. A splash of water reveals notes of orange sherbet, carnations and Brazil nuts.

Palate: An oily yet peppery texture leads to a burst of rich, sweet flavours. Treacle toffee and milk chocolate are threaded with notes of clove, ginger, cinnamon and nutmeg. Meanwhile, fruity undertones of raisins, dark plums and bitter orange find delectable balance with baking ryebread and salted nuts.

Finish: Long and nutty, brimming with spice, leather and a touch of aniseed.

Glenmorangie Amontillado Finish:

Gone down South! A long-time fan of Amontillado sherry, Dr Lumsden has always fancied its nuttier, spicier style in a bottle. Years ago, he began to imagine a unique, delicious whisky, which would entwine its casks’ distinctive flavours through the Distillery’s gentle, honeyed style. But since such casks are hard to come by, opportunities are few and far between.

Eventually, Dr Lumsden sourced a precious handful of Amontillado casks. Then he filled them with a soft, mellow whisky which had spent eight years in American white oak bourbon barrels. Transferring it into the Amontillado casks, he left it to age for another four years, until it achieved the flavours he desired. Finished in this way, the whisky winds sherried hints of cashews, clove, ginger and dried fruit round Glenmorangie’s classic notes of peaches, orange and lemon balsam.

Dr Lumsden hand-selected the finest of those precious casks to be bottled for the Distillery’s Barrel Select Release. It was a delight to bring the nuttier, spicier tastes of Amontillado as its casks’ sherried influences to their whisky’s signature delicate style for this special release. This version was not chill-filtered and presented at a healthy 46% ABV.

Sadly, it was crafted for The Whisky Club, Australia with very limited availability via Glenmorangie’s online shop, shipping to the UK only, and at the Distillery Visitor Centre shop in Tain.

The Tasting Notes

Colour: Bright Amber.

Nose: Scents of rose, carnation and jasmine entwine with fragrant candle wax and hints of cashew nuts. A splash of water releases Amontillado's classic dried fruit notes, followed by peaches in syrup.

Palate: A soft and mouthcoating texture is wonderfully balanced by effervescent and spicy notes. Clove and ginger find harmony with Glenmorangie's signature citrus tastes of orange sherbet, lemon balsam and eucalyptus oil, with undertones of walnut oil and leather.

Finish: Slow and lingering, with notes of honey and aniseed.

PRIVACY POLICY

TONIQUE MISSING OUT WITH CLIENTELE

 TONIQUE STUCK IN SOUTH INDIA

What do you say about a liquor store that claims to be the swankiest in the country stocking over 1500 brands? You are wasting everybody’s time if you don’t have an outlet in Gurgaon, Haryana! That’s what! Wake up, Tonique…

Tonique offers a completely air-conditioned ambience wafting with specialised perfume flowing across the store. Buying your favourite brand here is an experience that is hard to replicate anywhere in Asia, claims Tonique. Well, well!

Living up to its reputation as Asia’s biggest liquor store sprawling across two floors, Tonique is located in the centre of Bengaluru, majestically housed at MG Road, near Cubbon Parkside. The high point is that it is located in what is grandly known as the ‘Jewels de Paragon’ building! Apparently, they stock over 1,500 brands of alcohol from across the globe and match it with grand service. But the customer is more interested in the price point!

Tonique operates under two brand names: Tonique & Q by Tonique. Under Tonique there is one store apiece in Hyderabad and Pune & three in Bengaluru. Under Q by Tonique, there are seven stores in Hyderabad.

They began operations in December 2016 with the first outlet opening up in Hyderabad. They started their Bengaluru operations in June 2019 and the customers on seeing their Bengaluru store were amazed that a liquor store could be of such size. It has a completely air-conditioned ambience, punctuated with specialised perfume flowing across the store. The outlet has a dedicated parking complete with security guards, bouncers, and also lady guards.

Brands & Demand

The plethora of brands available with the corporation depot includes globally renowned players like Glenfiddich, Glenmorangie, Glenlivet, Johnnie Walker, Chivas and Royal Salute among others. You may also be tempted to pick up rare gems like Ricard Hennessy, Louis XIII, Dom Rose and Krug. They were probably the first retail liquor player in South India to list Sakes & Soju on the shelves and Champagnes from 200 ml to 9000 ml in size at one point of time.

Based on the sales pattern the brands in demand at the much-talked-about huge Tonique store in Bengaluru can be categorised under whisky, gin and vodka in the spirits section. Of course, wines too are in demand at the store and beer comprises their largest sales volume segment. Of late, hard seltzers and gin-based RTDs also have picked up in demand.

On the need to maintain price parity with neighbouring states and its impact on sales, Tonique claims that the tax structure in Karnataka for spirits and beers is one of the highest in the country. All the more reason to move three or four outlets to duty-friendly Haryana, favouring a huge impact on sales due to the low pricing while at the same time showing that neighbouring states like Delhi, Rajasthan, Punjab and Madhya Pradesh suffer scarcity in the availability of some of the alcobev brands.

It goes without saying that customer service is the essence of a top-notch liquor retail brand like Tonique. Their staff comes with a hotel management background and their wine floor is controlled by personnel who at least possess a Wset 2 qualification. They also organise regular training sessions for the floor staff. To provide ease of service to lady customers, their outlet in Bengaluru has Lady Guest Relation Executives (GREs) to give them personal attention. Another thoughtful and sensitive gesture they offer at the outlet is providing wheelchairs and customised assistance to senior citizens who may need it.

Customer Profile

As for the customer profile of the above-mentioned Tonique store in Bengaluru, it includes consumers from almost all walks of life and largely encompasses people who really love their drinks. As for the ratio of women shoppers at the store, GLN says the ratio is 60 per cent men and 40 per cent women. On weekends, one can see the rare sight of the entire family walking in together – like the couple with parents and children. For women, when the need arises, the store operates separate billing counters and is attended to by the lady GRE.

With regard to change in consumer behaviour in the post-Covid era, GLN says that their customers generally have upgraded to the next segment and also drinking at home has increased. As for payment modes, Tonique accepts all credit cards, including international cards & Amex cards too. UPI payments are also widely accepted. The only two negatives one could say is that there is no home delivery system since the state doesn’t allow it and second, the steep tax structure has a major adverse impact. But these two disincentives don’t serve as deterrents as shopping at Tonique is a global experience, with a personal touch.

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GLENMORANGIE AGAIN

 Glenmorangie Launches Delicious Design Project

The Delicious Design Project - Glenmorangie has teamed up with Indian-American artist extraordinaire Karsh Kale to launch a digital art X music experience that re-imagines the technicolour world of India and takes audiences to a journey of awe and wonder across all touchpoints.

Have you ever thought about food as art? How about mixology? The overlap between mediums to create unique experiences is a space that artists around the world are trying to explore. And with the launch of the Delicious Design Project, it’s made a splash in India.

This whimsical project explores how Indians consume whisky and the shifting trends in the space. With bright colour blocking and traditional Indian motifs, it reflects the soul of India. Through the three flowing movements, it juxtaposes old-world luxury with modern-day trends to encapsulate how people like to drink.

The narrative of the last few years has been around romanticising life. Taking time to enjoy the little things and slowing down the world’s frenetic pace to truly savour the act of being alive. This experience is reflected in Glenmorangie’s The Delicious Design Project. This luxury single malt brand from the house of Moët Hennessy India is amalgamating art and music with India’s favourite spirit as the backdrop.

The luxury single malt distiller is now dazzling audiences as it amalgamates art and music with The Delicious Design Project. Indian-American musician Karsh Kale features in it as the exclusive ‘Wondermaker’, teaming with artist Nikunj Patel of Studio Moebius to create an immersive long-form digital art series. In its pursuit to bring luxury moments of consumption through elevated localized experiences, this whimsical art & music series sets up 3 such fantastical moments of brand enjoyment titled Khuld, Raas and Shararat.

With the venue transformed into an “orangie” arthouse, the 3 immersive art pieces were launched with a high-octane event in Mumbai replete with fascinating installations, live rituals and a dramatic performance by the artists themselves in true Glenmorangie style. While Khuld involves viewers to enjoy lingering boat rides with friends in pristine lakes or soak in the breath-taking beauty of valleys laden with bright flowers, Raas takes them on a journey of merriment, opulent celebrations and dance in palatial courtyards. Shararat on the other hand celebrates urban party experiences made delicious with dancing skylines & giant giraffes.

The artistes believe working on The Delicious Design Project has been an outstanding experience. Right from its inception, it moved them to curate unparalleled experiences in the art, music and spirits space to unleash the magic for all consumers to indulge in.

Glenmorangie as a future-forward brand is always looking to create meaningful experiences, and The Delicious Design Project is one such initiative that will appeal to consumers and establish a deeper connect with the brand. Tapping into India’s cultural nuances, the campaign will unleash the quirky side of the single malt, the beats of Karsh Kale and the canvas of Nikunj Patel, thereby creating newer avenues of interacting with consumers who appreciate the wonderful and delicious experiences in life.

THE SIGNIFICANCE OF THE 3 MOVEMENTS

It all ties back to the occasionality of consumption. A lot of it comes from what is heard from consumers in India. At bars people are drinking a larger variety of cocktails irrespective of the spirit that’s in it, it’s based more on the appeal, the bartender's recommendation and the credibility of the place, based on this even non-whisky drinkers might try a whisky. To reflect that one of the scenarios shows a rooftop party in a city environment to show how the current conversation is going around cocktails.

The second scenario is a luxury, beautiful outdoor setting that evokes the heritage of India. Think of a Haveli in Rajasthan or a beautiful old bungalow in Kolkata. The aim is to go for an environment that’s immersed in luxury and classic hospitality; to replicate that joy of sipping on a single malt while gazing out over a lake and enjoying a holiday where you can get away from your usual very tense, busy days. So when you do make time for yourself, how can you find that solitude and enjoy a drink?

The third scenario went into a more natural space with a cabana where you’re enjoying intimate moments with friends or loved ones, and how you discern what you’re drinking then. Is it a celebratory cocktail or a neat single malt over quiet conversations? We see a lot of Indians travelling more and they’re choosing more luxurious places when they do, both in and out of India. They’re also hosting a lot more at home; the third scenario reflects that diversity.

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2023 AT GLENFIDDICH

 GLENFIDDICH’S BAG OF TRICKS

Glenfiddich has released Grand Yozakura, a limited edition single malt Scotch which “pays homage to Japanese culture”, as part of its grand series of whiskies.

It’s delicate, distinctive and just like Yozakura, once experienced, is never forgotten. Yozakura, ‘cherry blossom viewing at night’ in Japanese, is the magical moment of fleeting beauty when Japanese cherry blossoms are admired and celebrated under moonlight. A limited-edition release 45.1% ABV single malt that is housed in an elegant whisky box with Sakura imagery, and a Hanko stamp engraved bespoke stopper, a cloth capsule with a poem that are included for a complete gifting experience.

The 29-year-old single malt is finished in rare ex-Awamori casks and is intended as a limited-edition fusion “celebrating the finest flavours from Scotland and Japan”, according to the William Grant & Sons-owned distillery.

It is matured at the company’s distillery in Dufftown, and finished in oak casks which have previously matured the oldest alcoholic spirit in Japan, Awamori. Glenfiddich says the end result is a “finish unlike any other” and is in line with the other experimental and innovative single malts that make up the firm’s grand series.

Awamori is made using long-grain indica rice and traditionally stored in clay pots and matured in oak casks, with claims the technique for making the spirit has not been altered in more than 500 years. Only a small proportion of Awamori is aged in oak casks, which makes them exceptionally rare, the distillery said.

Grande Yozakura also celebrates Hanami – the “cherry blossom festival” – where Japan appreciates the trees at night in what is known as the Yozakura or ‘night sakura’.

The packaging of the whisky was created by Japanese artist June who creates visions incorporating Japanese culture and landscapes and includes a bespoke topper and traditional poem.

Glenfiddich malt master, Brian Kinsman, said the distillery was “always looking to experiment with new finishes” and when it had the chance to acquire the ex-Awamori casks, it saw an opportunity.

He said: “This is the first time that single malt Scotch whisky has been finished in these rare casks. We always learn something new when we lead with innovation so taking a risk is worth it, and in the case of Awamori we trialled a very small number of casks at a younger age first.”

Claudia Falcone, Glenfiddich's global brand director, added that the grand series underpins Glenfiddich’s “spirit of innovation,” as perhaps the most ground-breaking expression to sit alongside the series so far, whilst also being the first limited edition release. Bringing together two scarce components accentuates the anticipation and sense of occasion, paying homage to the brand’s innovative nature when it comes to creating dynamic whiskies of the highest quality.

Glenfiddich & Artist Yixin Zeng Create Perfect Lunar New Year Gift For Loved Ones

Welcome Good Fortune this Lunar New Year with Glenfiddich's 2023 Limited Edition Gift Packs

It takes a series of incredible journeys to create a truly extraordinary Chinese New Year. As loved ones gather from near and far during this year’s festive season, Glenfiddich has created a collection of special packs to commemorate the occasion and gift to friends and family as the perfect symbolic present.

Glenfiddich has collaborated with award-winning Chinese illustrator, Yixin Zeng, to design five exquisite gift packs. The design features the iconic Glenfiddich stag (Fu Lu) which represents wealth, prosperity and longevity in Chinese culture. On pack, the magnificent stag takes centre stage amidst a fantastically scene rich with texture, vibrant festive pattern and colourful elements surrounding its antlers.

There is no better time of the year than the festive season to celebrate with your loved ones and shower them with thoughtful gifts. Though the year is coming to an end, the festivities don’t have to.

If your Chinese New Year preparations —red envelopes, oranges, and nian gaos — are underway, consider adding some whisky to your CNY prep. Toasting with whisky while sharing stories is a great way for friends and family to indulge on a special occasion, and who better than Glenfiddich to know what a good whisky can do to keep the vibes going in a cross-generational family gathering?

A Gift For Extraordinary Journeys

To celebrate the getting together of family and friends from near and far, Glenfiddich has launched a line of Chinese New Year gift packs under the concept of the ‘Journey to Extraordinary.’ Each gift pack’s design features the label’s iconic royal stag reinterpreted by Chinese illustrator Yixin Zeng as the Fu Lu – Chinese for lucky deer, a symbol of wealth, prosperity, and longevity in Chinese culture. Surrounded by a dreamy and fantastical landscape of textures and patterns, the royal stag takes centre stage with its colourful and vibrant antlers.

Since Glenfiddich created the single malt category in 1963, they’ve always pushed the boundaries of crafting the most exceptional spirits while remaining authentic and genuine. With its reputation as the world’s most awarded single malt scotch whisky, Glenfiddich will bring your loved ones an unforgettable whisky experience along with blessings of abundance with these exceptional limited-edition gift packs.

Each set comes with a bottle of Glenfiddich’s signature Scotch whisky and is available in four expressions of the label’s bestsellers: the 12-Year-Old, the 15 Year Old, the 18 Year Old, and the Reserva Rum Cask 21-Year-Old.

Make It Personal

Besides gifting your loved ones with beautifully designed gift packs and some exceptional single malt whiskies, you can make it extra personal and take them on a real-life Journey to the Extraordinary by visiting Glenfiddich’s pop-up store. Explore the dream-like land of the Fu Lu where you can experience a whisky tasting session and personalise your Glenfiddich label to make your gift recipient feel extra special. A gift-wrapping service will also be available on-site.

Glenfiddich Gran Cortes XXII 43% ABV 70 Cl

This Glenfiddich Gran Cortes XXII is a brand-new, innovative single malt from Glenfiddich. The recently released whisky follows on from the epic Grand Cru 23-Year-Old, and it does so in real style.

Finished in rare Spanish Palo Cortado Sherry Casks, it brings a wealth of rich and fruity notes to the table, all backed up by a delicate, perfectly balanced array of spices.

The nose begins with notes of warming sherry spices and dried fruit. There is a lovely sweetness to it, with caramel and vanilla coming through. Sweet nuts and notes of citrus fruits.

The palate is full of oak wood and more sweet notes of vanilla. Sherry comes through really well and has an almost Christmas cake-like flavour. There is a hint of char and lots of dried fruit. Almonds and oranges give it a lovely richness.

The finish is sweet and warming, with lots of sherry and oak.

This is a wonderful addition to the Grand Series that really explores the Speyside flavour profile with big notes of sherry. It will be a treat to see what comes next!

It’s a truly wonderful dram that showcases everything you would expect from a 22-Year-Old Glenfiddich and then some and comes packaged in a beautiful sherry-red box that doubles as a display case.

The name of this expression means grand palaces, in celebration of Spanish royal courts, since it has been matured in specially selected Andalucian Palo Cortado sherry casks. It is exclusively available to customers in China and Taiwan. This one is difficult to find online and quantities are highly limited, so act fast to get your hands on a bottle.

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AUCHNAGIE OR AUCHNAGAR LOST DISTILLERY

2013: THE REBIRTH OF AUCHNAGIE-THE LOST
DISTILLERY OF YESTERYEAR

Auchnagie Distillery: BORN 1812- DEMISE 1911

Auchnagie Distillery existed for almost 100 years, starting work as a remote farmhouse distillery and ending its days as, arguably, the jewel in the crown of a global whisky empire. It had at least seven different owners and was silent for large parts of its life. This was not unusual for small-scale 19th-century distilleries, as their precarious existence was often at the mercy of lack of water, lack of money, changes to duty laws, repeated increase in taxes and local demand for the product.

There were several other distilleries that, in their heyday, produced outstanding whiskies. From 1823, when distillation was legalised, all good whiskies were Blended Malts, supplied at very high ABVs, averaging 65%. Arthur Bell even decried 63.5% ABV whiskies as just not good enough. These were all imbibed with soda, water and even ice. Swiss major Schweppes Tonic Water, which began in 1783, soon became the world's 'original soft drink' and by 1823, launched its Soda as the ideal addition to the high-ABV whiskies, although focussed primarily on its well-to-do clientele. Its Soda made a huge impact on the market, while also providing data as to how it was best employed. This led to a surge in the blended whisky market of that era, promoting known whiskies as well as its own sales.

A couple of opportunistic former Diageo high-end employees used this occasion and set up a company in 2013 to try and replicate the lost whiskies of yore, based on available data and deeply researched old folktales- that could stand the test of verification- narrated by founding distillery workers through the generations to define each unique Whisky and its story from the very beginning. The name: The Lost Distillery Company.

The Lost Distillery Company

The Lost Distillery Company is a subsidiary of Crucial Drinks, founded by former Diageo employees Scott Watson and Brian Woods in 2013. Their aim is to explore and celebrate the dozens of Scottish distilleries that have gone out of business at various times during the last century.

Working closely with Professor Michael Moss of Glasgow University and his team of archivists, they are able to create modern interpretations of the spirit once produced by stills now lost to the mists of time.

By scouring historical documents, tax records and contemporaneous accounts, they are able to build up a detailed picture of each distillery, taking everything into account from water source to still shape and the casks used for maturation. Once this profile has been created, their whisky-making team brings the spirit to life by blending malts sourced from current distilleries.

The re-creation of spirits few, if any, alive today have tasted is a fascinating concept, though the accuracy of any such endeavour can’t really be judged for obvious reasons. Best then to view this range simply as malts inspired by distilleries of old and judge each by the quality of the liquid in the bottle.

Auchnagie Distillery existed for almost 100 years, starting work as a remote farmhouse distillery and ending its days as, arguably, the jewel in the crown of a global whisky empire. It had at least seven different owners and was silent for large parts of its life. This was not unusual for small-scale 19th-century distilleries, as their precarious existence was often at the mercy of lack of water, lack of money, changes to duty laws and local demand for the product.

Auchnagie Distillery (or Tullymet as it was later known) was located near the hamlet of Tulliemet, approximately 6 miles South East of Pitlochry in Perthshire. The land in this area is rural, a mixture of pasture and rolling hills, with an ample supply of water flowing off of the high ground. Local farms in the area (from the 17th century) were built next to the streams, and many generated power by water wheel. Auchnagie Distillery augmented its water supply by constructing a water pool just above the distillery site – the remains of which can be seen to this day.

There were several distilleries in the local area and at least 3 in the immediate vicinity of Tulliemet. Knowledge of distillation seems to have been handed down through the generations, and several local farming families were involved in illegal distilling. This activity centred on the remote Loch Broom, where water and peat were in ready supply for those who worked the unlicensed “stells.” One local farmer constructed a barley “steep” underground, and covered the workings with wood and soil. Sheep grazed over the construction – this remained undiscovered by “the excise” and continued to provide malted barley well into the 19th century.

The precise location of where Auchnagie Distillery once stood is somewhat confusing, but research we believe, has identified the place. Tulliemet boasted three distilleries – Milton of Tulliemet, Braes of Tulliemet and Auchnagie. Alexander Duff, the owner of Milton, also owned a warehouse at Wester Auchnagie farm – which led many previous authors to assume the distillery was located there. In fact, it was warehousing only – we believe that Auchnagie Distillery was located half a mile away, at Easter Auchnagie. Just to confuse things further, Auchnagie changed its name in later years – to Tullymet! Still with us?

Auchnagie was reliant on water for both power and production. The water came from Loch Broom and flowed past the distillery via the Auchnagie Burn. The burn itself was deepened, widened and rock-lined for 500 metres above the distillery. The water had a particularly high mineral content, having been filtered through peat moss and granite. It was understood to be particularly good for making malt whisky.

“This distillery is favourably situated, and the water – a very important factor in the manufacture of whisky – is received from the springs of the Braes of Tullymet, and is especially suited for the making of Malt Whisky. The Whisky made here is of the very highest quality, and possesses the soft, mellow flavour now so generally approved of by connoisseurs of fine Scotch Whisky.” Alfred Barnard – Whisky Distilleries of the United Kingdom.

Auchnagie’s channelled water source drained into a specially constructed pool, with a sluice gate positioned at the bottom to control the flow. This construction helped prolong the distillation season. The pool is still visible on modern Google Maps. Barnard noted that there was no production when he visited as it was too warm for mashing – this was considered the norm, as Auchnagie, like other water-wheel-powered distilleries, was entirely at the mercy of rainfall for power supply. Also, with no temperature control on yeast activity, there was always the potential to lead to “blown” or “stuck” fermentation.

Bere barley (also referred to as beer or bygg) was the most common strain used. This was an ancient strain brought to Scotland by the Vikings. Availability of local and surplus barley generally governed the beginning and end of the distilling season. Poor harvests led directly to shorter seasons, or in extreme cases, no production at all. As an ingredient of whisky, its major drawback was the inconsistent size of grains. This created unevenly malted barley, leading to partially malted barley being mashed adding a greenish flavour note to the flavour of the whisky.

Commercial yeast was not available until the 1870s, although its influence in fermentation was understood. Farmhouses could maintain a homemade yeast culture made from potatoes and sugar. Alternatively, they could harvest a culture from the remnants of the washback. However, this technique was prone to contamination with bacteria and was not an efficient way to initiate fermentation.

Auchnagie peats were cut from the high ground above the distillery, adjacent to Loch Broom. Each family devoted time to securing their fuel for home and for the industry. They were dried on the high ground and carted down to Tulliemet. The major components of the dried peats were heather and moss, which gave off a delicate, perfumed note when tossed on the fire.

The copper mash tun would have been direct-fired by a mixture of coke and dried peat. The tun itself would have been made of wood and in the earlier years probably an oak puncheon. Later on, a purpose-built mash tun of around 2000 gallons was installed. There was a resident blacksmith in Tulliemet. Alexander Cameron was particularly skilled at making “vessels for the distillation of spirits,” and was in all likelihood the local purveyor of unlicensed distilling equipment in earlier times. Cameron also transported and sold his whisky to local taverns in Tulliemet and Ballinluig. Once Auchnagie was licenced, Cameron supplemented his income by renting a room in his house to Nicolas Oliver, who was the assistant Exciseman at Auchnagie, and who later moved to work at nearby Ballechin Distillery.

The washback would have been of wooden construction and in early years at least, unlikely to be purpose-built. Early distilleries on this scale would have used a puncheon or other portable vessel. The main problem would have been keeping the vessel free of yeast bacteria from previous batches of wash. Yeast works best in ambient temperatures and in the absence of any impurities. A build-up of bacteria would contaminate the wash with pungent farmyard off-notes. If this was in sufficient concentration it could halt yeast activity altogether, with potential loss of the entire batch.

In pre-industrialised times the size of the still dimensions and capacity were purpose-built to fit the space where they worked. In many instances, they were similar to other stills in the area. A fair comparison can be made with Edradour Distillery, and with Grandtully. Stills were constructed inside existing farm buildings, which generally restricted their height and capacity. Whisky from Highland distilleries was considered particularly desirable because, unlike Lowland Distillers, they used much smaller stills. It was long understood that whisky from the “sma” stills was far superior. While this may be true, it may also have been a reflection of the quality of Lowland Whiskies in the 19th century.

Legislation on still size changed several times between 1780 and 1823. For highland distillers from 1823, they were permitted to use a still of “not less than 40 gallons,” (the spirit still) providing they also operated a still of 500 gallons – no doubt the wash still. Therefore it’s fair to assume that stills were generally just over the minimum size permitted, and this only changed when purpose-built still rooms appeared as demand for whisky increased.

From the chart, we can deduce that there is no correlation between still size and the production of spirit. Output depended to a larger extent on how many months per year the distilleries operated, as they were highly dependent on local barley, and more importantly, local water supply. If Auchnagie was producing 19000 gallons in 1887 and had a capacity of 24000, then we can assume the distillery worked for around 9 months, from September to May. These figures equate to 2111 gallons per month or in modern measurements, to 9288 litres, which would today fill around 77 ex-bourbon barrels per month.

Successive owners improved Auchnagie’s capacity, not by adding bigger stills but more likely they developed techniques to lengthen the season, such as adding the water pool or providing a consistent supply of barley.

Whisky distilled in the early 19th century was generally not aged. Duty was paid on proof gallons produced – there was no incentive to watch it mature and evaporate. Whisky was stored in a cask as it was a means of transporting the goods to market. Cask size was usually octave or firkin. In the second half of the 19th century, hogsheads and butts appeared in greater numbers. Whisky in the earlier 19th century was generally all sold locally, and in casks. Retailers would dispense from the cask, and customers would arrive with a receptacle which would be filled accordingly. Commercially made bottles were not available until the late 1880s – their appearance, plus the invention of cork stoppers transformed the industry and its means of shipping the product.

Industrialisation and completion of the Highland Railway in 1863 created the means of transporting greater quantities of produce to a much wider area, including the wholesale markets in Edinburgh and Perth.

Aside from whisky, these merchants traded in Wine, Rum, Sherry and Madeira, and were the source of different types of casks bought, sold and refilled with Scotch whisky. The railway construction boom of the mid-19th century connected Perth with Inverness, with a station opening at Ballinluig in 1865. The main line followed the Spey River for much of its length, and several branch lines were built through communities now famous for whisky production. The proposed branch line from Tulliemet down to Ballinluig was never built, which meant transportation of bulk whisky down to the railway continued on horseback until the distillery ceased production in 1910.

There is evidence from Auchnagie’s later history, that some whisky was matured for a number of years. Local retailers sold whisky at “Never less than five years old,” and John Dewar and Sons offered a facility for storing privately purchased casks for a minimum of four years. If there was a taste for older whisky in the late 19th century, then eight years old was considered an extremely mature spirit. Remember Millard’s Black Dog, first sold in India as an 8-YO?

Compulsory bonding of two years was not brought into practice until 1915, later expanded to three years in 1916. This was a compromise negotiated by the Wine and Spirit Brand Association (which became the Scotch Whisky Association in 1940) with Lloyd George, who deplored alcohol consumption, particularly in the workplace and especially in wartime industries.

Key Individuals in Auchnagie History

The Dick family: The Dicks, Captain and Dr, were the land-owners of Wester and Easter Auchnagie, and thus the likely landlords of the Auchnagie Distillery. A descendent of the Dick family was known to enter the warehouses and tap casks for his personal supply. He was rumoured to hide bottles of whisky around the estate – some of which may still be waiting to be re-discovered in the hills above Tulliemet.

James Duff: James Duff is attributed as the first owner from 1827 to 1933, he is understood to have built the licensed Tullymet (Auchnagie) distillery on his land.

Alexander Forbes: Forbes operated a distillery at Milton of Tulliemet from 1825 to 1837, and owned a warehouse at Wester Auchnagie Farm._Forbes was later instrumental in licensing_ Edradour Distillery. His brother James Forbes was involved with Grandtully Distillery.

Duncan Scott: Operated the distillery from 1860 to 1862, and was probably responsible for the construction of the water pool at Easter Auchnagie. Scott was sequestrated in 1862, and the distillery then had an additional 4 tenant distillers over the next 25 years.

Peter Dawson: Dawson owned the distillery for one year – 1887 to 1888. Dawson was a well-known whisky merchant and something of a showman. He made headlines by bottling the largest vatting of whisky then recorded – some 23,000 gallons for his own brand – Peter Dawson Blended Scotch. A blend of “Titanic proportions” according to a publication of the time.

Dawson was given a platform by, of all organisations, the Temperance Association! Dawson noted that there was no point in attempting to cure the drunkard from the purely religious or moral sides. “…his emotional power is impaired, his willpower weakened. He must be dealt with from the physical side.”

“Let temperance reformers turn their attention to… villainous decoctions which, sold under the honourable designation of Scotch whisky, constitute what Carlyle has designated the “insidious brain stealer and soul paralyser.” And focus on… The influence of purely-blended and well-matured Scotch whisky, such as Mr Dawson stands sponsor for. Dawson is working as earnestly in the temperance cause as the most rabid lecturer of the Temperance League. These men have failed with religious appeals, moral suasion, and pledges to reduce drunkenness. The latest returns show that the evil is on the increase."

Dawson further noted… “I believe that public taste is tending towards blends rather than to single whiskies, and that skilfully blended liquor of ascertained and undoubted maturity would speedily displace those immature inferior, and un-wholesome spirits which are frequently put on the market.

I am working in the cause of temperance, because if men and women must have whisky, then, I say, let them have it pure and the best that can be manufactured. It is the immature and drugged whiskies that do the harm, steal away men’s brains, and create appetites and quenchless cravings."

John Douglas: Douglas was “The Exciseman” residing in what is now Woodside Cottage at Easter Auchnagie. Barnard noted an idyllic picture of Douglas’s life in 1887 when he tells us that the Exciseman “informed us that he leads quite a pastoral life here, and spends his summer days in his garden and little farmyard”.

Tommy Dewar (Whisky Tom): The final owners of Auchnagie Distillery (now renamed Tullymet) were the Perth -based whisky merchants, John Dewar and Sons. Tommy Dewar (youngest son of John Dewar Senior) lived in London from 1885 and within two years, had established Dewar’s Whisky as one of the top-selling brands in the capital. Based on this success, Dewar’s purchased Auchnagie Distillery, thus adding “distillers” alongside “blenders and bottlers” to their business.

In 1892 Tommy Dewar embarked on a World tour, aimed at promoting Dewar’s Whisky in the emerging markets of North America, Europe and Asia. Dewar visited 26 countries in two years and returned with 32 importer agreements, plus a Royal Warrant to supply Queen Victoria. Dewar’s was now a global brand – a tremendous success for Tommy Dewar. The distillery had its own brand called “Old Tullymet,” which gave it identity in an increasingly crowded whisky market. However, it was clear that the ambitions of John Dewar and Sons were higher than ever – what did “Whisky Tom’s” achievements overseas mean for their distillery at Auchnagie?

Demand for Dewar’s growing array of whisky brands was such that one small distillery could never produce enough whisky to supply demand. In 1894, Soon after Tommy Dewar’s return, distillery architects Charles Doig and Co were commissioned to build a distillery at Aberfeldy. This effectively meant the end of the road for the distillery at Auchnagie. Aberfeldy Distillery opened in 1896 and production ceased at Auchnagie for good in late 1910, and the building was noted as “vacant” the following year. In 1912 the equipment and machinery were removed, thus ending over a century or legal distilling history in the hamlet of Tulliemet.

Auchnagie Distillery enjoyed the best and worst of times – it survived for almost 100 years and was witness to tremendous change in the whisky industry. Railway construction, advances in steam motive power, development of the column or “Coffey” still, advances in yeast technology, and the expansion of the industry from domestic products to global brands to name but a few. The number of different owners illustrates how precarious a distillers’ lot could be – several were declared bankrupt, or simply gave up the tenancy due to lack of money, barley or water. The turnover of tenants had one additional consequence – none of them possessed the finance to upgrade or modernise the distillery.

Auchnagie’s location was far from ideal, but that was not the principal reason for its eventual closure. From a post-industrial perspective, Auchnagie was old, small and inefficient, particularly compared with the modern industrial distilleries constructed by Charles Doig. Transport links were poor and outdated.

Tommy Dewar’s achievements seemed to guarantee security – although the reality was somewhat different. Demand for Dewar’s whiskies outstripped the capacity of Auchnagie, and when compared with their new distillery in Aberfeldy, the asset in Tulliemet appeared an expensive liability.

Today, the water pool remains and can be inspected as it is on Atholl Estates land, but it is an overgrown weed bed. The old water course is stone-lined for quite a distance upstream, creating a deep channel for funnelling water down to the distillery. The pool itself is pear-shaped, approximately 25 metres long, and 15 metres at its widest. There are the remains of a concrete sluice gate at the bottom.

Woodside Cottage remains and is occupied – the garden gives amazing views and one can imagine John Douglas spending his summer tending his vegetables during the silent season. A bonded warehouse remains intact, opposite Woodside Cottage, and is currently used as a garage.

Aside from some old stone walls, there is little evidence of the old distillery itself, or the renowned whisky it produced.

Until now.

THE DISTILLERIES

  Auchnagie

  Stratheden

  Gerston

  Jericho / Benachie

  Lossit

  Towiemore

  AUCHNAGIE

The water source, Loch Broom really put Auchnagie on the map. As it silently flowed past the distillery, naturally high in mineral content, it remained so even after being filtered through peat moss and granite.  It laid the foundation for making Scotch whisky very mellow and flavourful.

The Spirit

Appearance: The colour in the Glencairn glass is pale yellow or light gold, like bales of straw in the barn loft after summer harvesting. To complete the image, the Scotch is just slightly opaque. The legs are long and reluctant and thick and inviting. They are actually fun to sit and watch (if it wasn’t so much more fun drinking it!).

Nose: The nose is light and airy and filled with floral notes. There is also a presence of honey and fresh fruit.  It’s a medium nose that’s easily detected.

Palate: On the palate, Auchnagie Scotch feels light, in spite of a creamy mouthfeel. At 46% ABV, it drinks slightly hot and that is a surprise. But it’s not an aggressive heat, but rather a warm, inviting and comforting one. It’s one that makes you think you need a more generous pour on the next round. There are notes of honey and fruit and light spice. It is primarily a mid-mouth experience that is very refreshing.  A medium to long finish eventually appears as the light spice turns to more of a peppery presence while asserting itself at the back of the mouth and even onto the lips.

This Scotch is never pushy and does not overstay its welcome. It does, however, leave you wanting more. This Scotch, at an excellent ABV, is not chill-filtered and makes you want to put it away to stretch its longevity in your hidey-hole. A kill at £ 50-55. 

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