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Wednesday 18 January 2023

THE DEWAR STORY

 DEWAR: ANOTHER GROCER TO WHISKY MAGNATE


A subsidiary of Bacardi since 1998, John Dewar and Sons is a Scottish distiller and whisky blender. The company has five distilleries: Aberfeldy, Aultmore, Craigellachie, MacDuff and Royal Brackla. John Dewar and Sons is headquartered at London Road, Glasgow which is also where the company’s ageing warehouses and blending facilities are sited

The story of the Dewar family and their whisky business is one of entrepreneurialism, creativity, forethought and sheer boldness. In 1846, John Dewar, a grocer who, like most grocers of that time, became dealers in spirits, opened a wine and spirits shop at 111 High Street in Perth. The premises remained in family ownership for the next 50 years, becoming the place of work for many of the 10 children of John and his wife Jane. Much like John Walker, Dewar began blending his own whisky years after setting up shop, until the 1860s when ‘mixture whisky’ was still relatively unknown in the area.

When Dewar died in 1880, the business was left in the hands of sons John Alexander and Thomas Robert (Tommy), who were only 24 and 16 years old respectively at the time. The tenacious Tommy Dewar slipped into London as a 21–year–old in 1885, armed with two sales leads, one of whom proved bankrupt and the other dead. Within a couple of decades, he had befriended the future Edward VII, owned Britain’s third motor car, was fabulously rich and destined for the House of Lords – all because of his single-minded push to build Dewar’s White Label through relentless advertising.

In 1886, the firm was renamed John Dewar & Sons, and Tommy had a firm grasp on the role of spreading the word of the business to London and overseas. In 1892 he set out on a two-year journey around the world, which was immortalised in his book A Ramble Round the Globe. This was an age of horse-drawn carriages and steam engines. Pace was slow and days could be long. Shipping times were uncertain. He also claimed to have invented the original Highball — made with whisky, soda, and ice — while visiting New York. His creative and revolutionary marketing techniques (including throwing empty bottles of Dewar’s overboard with reward notes inside for their finders) eventually became legendary. This extensive sojourn resulted in agents in 26 countries. Its cost of more than £500,000 (US$650,000) in today’s money was soon forgotten as orders began to pour in.

Within a year, business was booming and the company was granted a Royal Warrant by Queen Victoria. Within 20 years they had transformed a prosperous local business into a Scotch whisky powerhouse with a production capacity of 1m gallons, two distilleries and a burgeoning export trade. John handled the business in Scotland while his younger brother was the irrepressible frontman down south.

Tommy Dewar was a master of this new black art, and among his many ‘Dewarisms’ was the doctrine: “Keep advertising and advertising will keep you.” In 1898, he commissioned possibly the first filmed commercial, certainly for spirits, projecting it from the roof of Manhattan’s Pepper Building. It featured four actors in kilts dancing a drunken Highland fling under a Dewar’s banner. It wasn’t subtle, but New Yorkers were amazed. 15 years later, Londoners gawped at a giant illuminated Scotsman by Waterloo Bridge, whose kilt appeared to sway as his hand repeatedly raised a glass of Dewar’s.

The small Tullymet distillery leased by the family could no longer cope with production demands, so in 1898 John Alexander Dewar commissioned their second, the Aberfeldy distillery a few miles away. The following year, the business released its flagship expression – Dewar’s White Label. 

After Queen Victoria’s death and the accession of King Edward VII, John Dewar & Sons’ Royal Warrant was renewed – as it has been by every British monarch since – and Tommy Dewar was knighted.

Following the onset of the First World War and then Prohibition in the US, the company merged with Distillers Company Ltd in 1925 to help secure the future of the industry. It remained a separate fiefdom within DCL and was free to compete with its stablemates. In 1980 it replaced J&B as the top Scotch in America, and in six years was claiming a US market share of 15%, yet there were no real efforts to create a premium tier. If fans of ‘Doo­ers’ wanted to trade up they were cordially invited to drink Johnnie Walker Black, Blue or Gold.

The group eventually ended up in the hands of Diageo through a series of mergers, but in 1998 was sold to Bermuda-based rum group Bacardi, along with Bombay Sapphire gin. Bacardi’s first move was to instigate a packaging update for the brand and establish a home for it. In 2000, Dewar’s World of Whisky was opened at Aberfeldy distillery, which now attracts over 30,000 visitors a year. 

In the US there’s nothing ‘moderately well­-known’ about Dewar’s White Label, which was sold for an estimated US$1.4bn. It “was then, and still is, the number-­one Scotch whisky by the label in the US”, according to Bacardi. Johnnie Walker may be a bigger brand in the States, but it seemed White Label was the country’s favourite single bottle of Scotch.

Bacardi saw the potential to grow into the premium and ultra­premium segments and launched Dewar’s 12, 15 and 18-Year Old. The labels on the new DEWAR’S bottles incorporated special features to help consumers discover the stories behind the Scotch whisky. In addition, all DEWAR’S premium and super-premium whiskies carry individual statements of ageing and provenance. As a nod to its heritage and exceptional craft, each bottle of DEWAR’S Signature comes with a unique certificate of authenticity, signed by the Master Blender.

The most distinctive feature of the new DEWAR’S look is the trefoil Celtic truth knot that has been embossed onto the glass of every bottle. A visual representation of DEWAR’S strength and longevity shows three interlocking D's that represent the three men who created the company that endures to this day — John Dewar and his sons, John Alexander Dewar and Tommy Dewar.

With demand for premium Scotch whisky growing worldwide, in 2007 Bacardi invested US$250m in expanding production capacity at its Glasgow site and developing a new maturation facility at Poniel. 

The brand made its first venture into ‘flavoured Scotch’ with the introduction of Dewar’s Highlander Honey in 2013, while a second brand makeover was implemented in 2014. A new no-age-statement expression called Scratched Cask was introduced in May 2015. The Highlander Honey launch proved contentious and was quietly dropped, as was the case with the disparaged Drinking Man campaign of 2012.

In 2017, the company introduced Dewar’s 25 Year Old to its core range as a replacement for Dewar’s Signature; two years later, the first of a planned series of ‘innovative’ finishes, Dewar’s Caribbean Smooth (extra-matured in rum casks) was launched in North America. They were subsequently bottled at 46% ABV, sans chill filtration/ addition of e-150A Caramel colour.

Dewar's is certainly doing well in the US. As one of the classic blends, Dewar’s has retained its reputation as an accessible, smooth Scotch while modernising its range in recent years, with its White Label at its core, which delivers the brand’s signature soft honey, vanilla and floral flavours; Besides the 12 YO, 8/15/18/21/25/27 and 32-year-old expressions are also available. It won 14 of the 15 slots available for Blended Scotch whiskies at the 2021 International Whisky Competition. Revered by discerning Scotch whisky drinkers around the globe, John Dewar & Sons has won more than 500 medals for quality and taste.


               

Then came the Double Series, first with 21 and 27 YO whiskies. The 25 and 32 YO were to follow. Dewar’s takes pride in their double ageing process. They are masters in ageing their blended whisky, so going one step forward was a natural progression. But instead of going for a triple ageing process, they’ve decided that a fourth ageing stage would be key for their new range of blends: Dewar’s Double Double.

In 2019, Stephanie Macleod, the seventh master distiller at Dewar’s, used her award-winning idea by ageing the whiskies an additional year in a separate family of casks to create a new range of award-winning ‘Double Double’ whiskies. She added a 32 YO to this range.

To do so, they first aged their single grains and single malts in oak barrels, as normal. Then, they blended each style, ageing a blend of their sourced grain and a blend of their sourced malt in a new set of oak barrels, albeit still separately at this stage. The third step of the process was the ageing of the married grain and malt whiskies in another set of exhausted oak barrels. The cherry on top for the Dewar’s Double Double 21 is the Oloroso Sherry cask finish.

Dewar’s Double Double 21-year-old is bottled at 46% ABV in 50cl bottles (all double-doubles are). The bottles show a completely different style from Dewar’s. The bottle is shaped like a diamond and showcases a more simple label.

They are found to be excellent sipping whiskies. They are exceptionally smooth, delicate, and nuanced, featuring a spectrum of flavours, depth of intensity, layers of complexity, and individual characters. It’s not common to find 27-and 32-YO expressions on the shelves, let alone with such cask finishes.

The 21-Year-Old


Appearance: The colour of the whisky is mahogany.

Nose: On the nose is sweet, highlighting honey and vanilla aromas but also an intense sherry touch. There are fruity notes of peaches and baked apples, with a citrus note of orange peel. It is spicy, with intense black pepper notes and a touch of roasted meat. There are also some notes of toasted oak and nuts.

Palate: On the palate, it bursts with intense fruit notes and a strong character. There are peaches, pears, and ripe grapes, but also a citrus touch. It is spicy, highlighting cinnamon and white pepper notes. A touch of coffee and chocolate gives more presence to the palate, adjusting discretely the oak notes. Towards the end, the Oloroso notes come to the foreground.

Finish: The finish is long and pointy, with a sherry touch.

Overall: To produce a blend you need an incredible capacity to balance all the ingredients perfectly. Dewar’s Double Double 21 is a fantastic sample of how to make a quality blend. It has enough character (probably because it is bottled at 46% abv) to give a full flavour. But it is also quite balanced, or “smooth” as Dewar’s says, to nimbly pass through the palate.

The Price: An expensive 50 Cl for
60/-

The 27-Year-Old

To repeat, Double Double maturation is a four-stage ageing process. The first step involves single malts and single grains which have been aged separately for two years less than the stated age. Then the single malts are blended together and rested in exhausted casks for six months. The single grains are also processed in the very same fashion. Then, the blended single malts and blended single grains that have been rested are blended together and again rested in exhausted casks for six months. Finally, the blended scotch finishes its maturation in Sherry casks for twelve to fifteen months. This final Sherry cask is different for each expression. What is not revealed in all three Double Doubles is their mash bill.

Dewar’s Double Double Aged 27 Years Old – Finished in Palo Cortado Sherry casks, a rarity. This blend should deliver heady, aromatic, floral notes with honeyed fruits and subtle spice and the characteristic silky smooth finish.

Appearance: The 27 year is very clear and the colour of clover honey syrup – a touch paler than the 21-year-old. The whisky beads and slowly forms thick tears.

Nose: The nose is heavy with notes of nougat and almonds, peach nectar, apricots and dried rose petals then a distinct dry Sherry note — slightly salty, slightly sour, slightly mushroomy.

Palate: The palate has less overt Sherry character than expected, though leather and mushroom are dominant, along with some nutty chocolate bar notes. As it sets in the glass, a tiny whiff of smoke emerges: smouldering straw and brown sugar. Oddly, the entire thing comes together as somewhat more youthful than the age stated.

Finish: Lengthy, with more citrus apparent. Certainly zesty.

The Price €150

Overall: Dewar's 27-Year Double Double may be the most untamed by sherry casks of the whiskies in the line. The expression does seem hot for an old whisky! But this whisky has a lot going for it; all the interesting notes. A subtle fruitiness with muted spices and a hint of ginger. The good news is that the variations in woodwork show a positive influence. Best appreciated neat rather than with water as H2O amplifies spice and suppresses honey and caramel.

The 32-Year-Old

Dewar's Double Double 32 Year is a Blended Scotch crafted by master blender Stephanie Macleod which is aged in a four-stage ageing process. Its 32nd year is spent in an ex-Pedro Ximenez Sherry cask.

The Double Doubles are 46% ABV and have an undisclosed mash bill, though they are all blended Scotch whiskies. The 32-year-old is aged in Pedro Ximénez sherry casks and retails at $250 for 500mL.

Appearance: In the glass, the 32-year-old looks like blackberry honey – just a hint of red. It quickly forms fat tears.

Nose: Aromas of chimney smoke predominate, underlaid with pectin-heavy peach crisp. Toasted bread and caramel sauce notes follow.

Palate: The whisky equivalent of holding a puppy: sweet and warm. Balanced spice and stone fruit, a memory of smoke and a long finish of white flowers. The mouthfeel is heavy, but the spirit is not at all cloying or overwhelmed by the sherry.

Finish: The finish is enduring but sharp and a bit tight, showing fortified wine notes and plenty more of that classic PX character. One to really pore over as it slowly reveals its charms, becoming silky smooth.

Overall: Finally the Double Double concept seems worth it. Smooth and pretty, a truly enjoyable spirit.

Price: €230 for 50Cl. The most full-bodied in the Double Double line, it would make an excellent nightcap. Worth a splurge if you can afford it.

THE COMPONENT SINGLE MALTS IN THE WHITE LABEL

The Aberfeldy single malts are the most pronounced in Dewar’s blends, making up the largest percentage. They are considered the heart of the blend. Aberfeldy’s single malts carry a pronounced honey flavour, with oak and nuts—and many of their older malts carry a raisin-like sweetness followed by subtle spice.

Aultmore is close to the heart! Running the stills slow helps to maximise reflux, but the shape also allows some heavier elements to come across. In character, therefore, Aultmore is fragrant on the nose and substantial on the tongue. In fact, so highly prized is it as a blending malt that it is said that when Bacardi was in the process of buying Dewar’s from Diageo, it was willing to walk away from the deal if Aultmore wasn’t included.

The Craigellachie Distillery produces signature Speyside whiskies. This distillery, however, features something very unique in the world of Scotch distillation with their new make spirit entering worm tubs on the distillery rooftop, directly impacting the whisky flavour profile. Craigellachie’s historic distillery and their superior single malts lend their sweetness to the Dewar’s range, the White Label in particular.

Royal Brackla produces delicate, complex single malts with fruitier notes, and a bit of leafiness. It factors prominently within Dewar’s blends.

A modern distillery, Macduff, the whisky of which is bottled by its owner as either Glen Deveron or The Deveron. 

Dailuaine, once owned by Dewar & Sons, produces a heavy ‘meaty’ make thanks to long fermentation, rapid distillation and the use of stainless steel in the condensers to cut down on copper interaction. The ex-Sherry cask finish shows this mix of richness and sweetness.

Miltonduff, with a very fresh, floral new make character shows out to be a charming, light single malt, perfect for adding top notes to a restrained and elegant blend. Its palate has a succulent texture.

Monday 9 January 2023

MEMORIES OF 2022

 SOME CLASSICS OF THE YEAR GONE BY

It can be a challenging time for many folks who struggle to first determine and then find the best whiskies available. Thankfully, if you are a Scotch whisky enthusiast, you won’t have that problem. The only thing you really have to determine is what you’re willing to spend on that bottle. Once you answer that question, consult the list compiled below. It contains a broad cross-section of single malts ranging from reasonable in price to prohibitive. The common thread connecting them is they’re all exceptional spirits that have been released relatively recently. Happy hunting.

The Dalmore 14-Year-Old Highland Single Malt Scotch — $90

The Dalmore is one of the marquee names in ultra-luxury. To wit, its Decades collection—featuring six bottles dating back to 1951—sold at a Sotheby’s auction for $1.124 million. Luckily you can score a taste of the brand’s famously lush liquid for far less. Earlier this year saw the launch of its first release finished in Pedro Ximenez casks. It’s a 14 YO malt that brims with marmalade and cacao. And it’s already a big hit with aficionados, keeping the till ringing. Unfortunately, The Dalmore 14-Year-Old will be available exclusively in the U.S. With luck, one should see it elsewhere too.

The Dalmore 14’s signature feature is its sole use of “rare Pedro Ximénez casks from the House of Gonzalez Byass,” rather than other sherry styles such as oloroso that are more commonly used by Dalmore. The company is positioning it as their first Principal Collection bottle to exclusively be matured in PX sherry, which will presumably make those concentrated fruity flavours its biggest calling card. As a bonus, it also has a slightly higher strength than the core Dalmore 12 or Dalmore 15 expressions, which both weigh in at a mere 40% ABV. This one is 43.8% ABV, a nice incremental upgrade, though a bit under the 44% ABV of Dalmore Cigar Malt Reserve or the 46.5% ABV of Dalmore Port Wood Reserve. Regardless, it’s likely an admission that the global market really prefers an elevated proof point. The sun-drenched, intense sweetness of the PX sherry wine adds delicious new layers of flavour and perfectly complements The Dalmore’s house style and rich notes of citrus, liquorice and caramel. With notes of figs, Medjool dates and maple syrup, The Dalmore 14 Year is ideal to cherish and enjoy with others.

Nose: On the nose, this one doesn’t immediately strike me as one of the more assertive Dalmore expressions I’ve encountered, but I suspect this is also a result of having tasted so many barrel-proof expressions lately. What this one really needs is a few minutes to open up in the glass, which reveals increasingly strong waves of caramel, syrupy dark fruit compote—blackberry and currant—and raisin. It’s slightly toasty in character, with a suggestion of honeycomb and a little cocoa. After a few minutes, the sherry really opens up in a big way, with increasingly punchy and vinous fruit notes and roasted nuts. Sweet, fruity and inviting.

Palate: On the palate, this is again decidedly on the sweet and fruity side, with bright red and black fruit and a little orange citrus, but it’s balanced out by equally assertive roastiness and sharp coffee, along with mocha. There’s a licorice-like spice as well, while the fruitiness suggests confections the first time around, baked pie or cobbler. Over time, this also grows more overtly sherry-like, with more dried fruit and oxidized wine notes. The coffee, meanwhile, gives it just a bit of roast astringency, which helps balance the considerable sweetness. All in all, it drinks quite easily, with muted ethanol but a slightly thin mouthfeel. As is often the case with The Dalmore, the balance of flavours is superb, but the question of what this might be like at an even more elevated strength closer to 50% ABV never escapes the mind. That might really be a showstopper.

Finish: The finish sees rich dark fruits return, licorice, marmalade and depths of cocoa.

Overall: All in all, though, this is an excellent expression, one that has a tendency to grow in the glass—my enjoyment rose appreciably from first taste to last. I’m still not sure that it necessarily stands out from the rest of the Dalmore Principal Collection in a way that makes it an indispensable new addition, and the $90 MSRP isn’t exactly cheap, but at the same time, the rampant price-gouging in the world of American whiskey makes it feel quite a lot more palatable than perhaps it once would have. Fans looking to enjoy the rich, decadent interplay of fruit and roast will find much to like here.

Tomatin Portuguese Collection — $102

Tomatin is a Highland single malt Scotch whisky distillery known for its intense, high-toned and fruity spirit, with its oldest expressions moving into tropical fruits. It is Tomatin’s much-improved wood policy which has brought it to the notice of single malt lovers. A higher percentage of first-fill casks – ex-Bourbon and ex-Sherry – has given more flesh and structure to the always top-notch spirit.

A trio of malt distillate was laid down in the Highland distillery on September 8th, 2006. After 8 years, the stock was split into one of 3 types of secondary barrels and left to age for 7 more years. The Port Edition is a stone fruit stunner. The Moscatel Edition is more concerned with ginger and citrus, while the Madeira Edition is all about that butter. Each one stands alone as a solid bargain for 15 YO spirit from a perennially overlooked producer. If you’re feeling particularly greedy, however, buy the entire and see how impactful cask selection is on flavour.

Although the first manifestation of Tomatin only ran between 1897 and 1906, its reopening under new management in 1909 saw the start of a remarkable journey which would culminate in this remote Highland outpost in between Aviemore and Inverness becoming the largest malt whisky distillery in Scotland.

Its expansion (and contraction) mirrors accurately the mood of the industry: from two stills to four in 1956, four to six in ‘58, up to 11 in ’61 and then in 1974 the most dramatic expansion of all, with 12 stills being installed, bringing the total to 23 and overall capacity to 10m litres per annum. It couldn’t last. Even in 1974, the first indications of a downturn in Scotch’s fortunes were being noticed. Tomatin never ran at full capacity and in 1986 went into liquidation.

 
The site was saved however by two of its Japanese bulk customers, Takara Shuzo and Okura & Co, making it the first Scotch distillery to be under Japanese control. There has been a slow but steady recalibration ever since. The company bought blending firm J&W Hardie in 1997, adding the prestigious Antiquary blend to its portfolio. Eleven of the stills were taken offline in 2000 and today only 2m litres are produced from six wash and four spirit stills. The other major change has been a shift in emphasis from bulk supply to single malt (as well as Antiquary) – again Tomatin is mirroring the market's continuing evolution. The single malt range has been widened in terms of age statements and the management has introduced a peated variant, Cu Bocan.

                          

The Royal Brackla 18 YO Palo Cortado Finish — $300

The Royal Brackla distillery is located northeast of Inverness, Scotland, the largest city in the Scottish Highlands. The distillery was founded in 1812 and in 1833, was awarded a Royal Warrant by King William IV, becoming the first Scotch to be honoured as such (thus the right to use the “Royal” in its name). Royal Brackla changed ownership several times over the last century and was even closed for a period in the mid-1980s before it was “resurrected” in 1990. Bacardi Limited, the world’s largest privately held spirits company, owns Dewar’s Aberfeldy brand which, in turn, counts Royal Brackla as one of its labels. The distillery set-up is all about creating and then capturing esters – the fermentation is long, the lyne arms of the stills are angled upwards, the copper conversation a long one and the reflux plentiful. As well as having this fresh, perfumed fruitiness Brackla also possesses a clean acidity, and it is this which allows it to cut through the powerful flavours given during ageing in various types of ex-Sherry casks, the maturation style chosen by Dewar’s for its single malt releases.

The Royal Brackla 18-year-old single malt Scotch whisky 750ML arrived in style. This aromatic dram has been finished in Palo Cortado Sherry Casks This stunning new bottle design encases a complex and enticing whisky. Tasting notes abound of rich spices, creamy vanilla, succulent soft fruits and cocoa powder, brightened with a zing of citrus.

Palo Cortado is a rare type of Sherry that starts out as ageing under the flor, with an eye on becoming either a Fino or Amontillado. To become a Palo Cortado, that cap of flor must fall apart, exposing the wine to the air inside the cask and promoting oxidation. The result is a Sherry that sits between Oloroso and Amontillado. The fact that a cask of Palo Cortado usually results from a twist of fate rather than design marks it out as an exotic beast indeed

This 18-year-old expression is the middle release in a new range of single malts from the distillery – the other two bookend at 12 and 21-year-old expressions. The whisky has no added caramel colouring, nor does it undergo any chill filtration. As with the other regular Royal Brackla malts, the 18-year-old is bottled at a strong 46% ABV. This single malt is pleasant but far too expensive at $299.

Appearance: A light, yellow gold.

Nose: Subtle and mellow at first blush, with green apple, and a pleasant airy oakiness. The sherry’s influence is there, but it took a few good sniffs to lock it down.

Palate: Some peaches and vanilla cream again, with tart lemon juice and golden raisins; ginger and grapefruit peel with a subtle oily note in the background. A mildly nutty side again. Herbal teas, bitter almonds and walnuts. A perfectly likeable combination of honey, fruit, and Sherry.

Finish: An enjoyable medium-long finish, with the spice and vanilla staying strong while introducing a balanced complexity one doesn’t experience up front. Marketed beyond its class and definitely overpriced.

            

The Royal Brackla is known as the 'The King's Own Whisky'.  These sherried malts are hardly a novelty to Scotch enthusiasts. In fact, more often than not, the most sought-after single malts are ones that have matured in ex-sherry casks. But the sort of sherry used to season those casks is typically PX, Oloroso, or even Amontillado or Fino. Royal Brackla’s 18-year-old offering, finished in far rarer casks has delivered complex and compelling results. It’s kind of like cream soda in dram form, with a slightly warming citrus and clove finish. A unique sipping experience for the Spanish fortified wine fan in your secret epicurean life.

Bruichladdich Octomore Edition 13.3 —$330

For the peathead in you, your bottle of Octomore will always be unwrapped with considerable glee. This one is cause for celebration, boasting barley malted to 129.3 PPM. If that PPM means something to you, don’t worry, it is way below the double and triple hundred PPM whiskies bottled in earlier years. Moreover, the PPM value is that of the malt before the transformation into spirit has started. It was distilled from barley grown on Islay, on a single farm within stone’s reach of the distillery where it was eventually crafted. It took shape in barrels of American whiskey followed by secondary maturation in European oak casks from both France and Spain. In other words: it’s a beast...But a worldly, sophisticated sort of beast.


Distilled in 2016 from the 2015 harvest of 100% Octomore Farm-grown Concerto barley, then matured for 5 years in a combination of first-fill bourbon and second-fill European oak barrels that previously held Rivesaltes and Ribera del Duero wines — a slight shift on the usual formula, which is typically bourbon only. Rather hot and well-rounded, with less overt smoke and ash and a strong fruit character on the nose, showcasing lemon and orange peel. Fruit moves into nutty nougat on the palate, informed by a moderated seaside bonfire character — smoke and salt and seaweed all in a swirl. This whisky is an exercise in not just peat, but the effects of barrel maturation, barley provenance and terroir on the flavour of a whisky. And it’s also proof that a single malt scotch doesn’t have to be aged for at least a decade to obtain a complexity of flavour. The overall composition is more iconic Octomore than most, if one can say that. This 13.2 is unique and those looking for something right in line with tradition will find this on point. 61.1% ABV!

Tasting Notes:

Nose: Aromas of malt sugar and gentle peat smoke lead you into the dram. Layers of fresh green fruit come next followed by rose, geranium, apricot, and eucalyptus. Marzipan, ginger nut biscuits, and honeyed melon can also come through, with the malty fruity character coming to the fore with a little time. Adding a drop of water will bring out the peat smoke beautifully.

Palate: A soft and delicate on the palate, sweet honey and brown sugar give way to a whisper of peat smoke. The second sip brings lemon rind and seashells, a delicate marine hint along with malty biscuit notes and marzipan and coconut. The peat smoke has hints of boot polish and ash but is gentle enough to allow the subtle floral malty notes to shine.

Finish: The marine character develops and the smoke increases on the palate, honey and lemon with warm sand and marzipan. Final fruity traces of peach and stewed pears bring a little sweetness to the finish.

Overall: An Islay whisky through and through, the provenance of this Octomore expression is unrivalled. The complex flavour of the soil that raised the barley and the classic peat smoke define this whisky's character, speaking of the place it is from.

Octomore single malt has defied received whisky wisdom since its launch in 2008. Matured for five years, always super-heavily peated and bottled close to cask strength, Octomore’s surprising elegance has led the powers that be at Bruichladdich to define it as “The Impossible Equation”.

There are many attributes they share with their distant Gaelic forefathers: stubborn, resolute, self-sufficient, hard-working, enduring, straight-talking, passionate and philosophical, albeit with a certain roguish quality.

They are proudly nonconformist, as has always been the way in these Western Isles. Oirthir Gaidheal, the Coast of the Gaels, the 'land of the outsider'. They passionately believe in terroir - in authenticity, place and provenance, and ultimate traceability.

They seek to produce the most natural, thought-provoking and enjoyable spirits possible. Obsessive? Probably. But if all you want is generic spirit, the world is awash with the stuff. Indulge yourself there. At Bruichladdich, they are Progressive Hebridean Distillers. This isn't just a form of words. It is a statement of identity and philosophy. They respect the past but don't live in its shadow. They believe in innovation and progress while striving to create intriguing spirits - spirits with remarkable integrity and provenance, in moving forward, asking questions and challenging convention and continuing to rebel against the traditional world of Scotch whisky. They're not afraid to push the boundaries and go against the status quo.

When it comes to distilling, they see this not as an industrial practice but rather an ancient art - an art that has intrigued the human spirit for centuries. A mysterious and enigmatic alchemy that explores the very depths of the distiller’s soul. They make our whisky the same way as their predecessors - by hand, taste, nose and eye.

It is this manual control of the entire process and the ultimate knowledge of every pipe, valve and detail that gives them the authority to not only distil three different styles of single malt, but also the first Islay dry gin. It is in their commitment to protecting core values of authenticity, provenance and transparency that they have earned the right to call themselves Progressive Hebridean Distillers.

Since Bruichladdich’s resurrection in 2001, their ambitions have gone beyond the simple idea of making and selling single malt scotch whisky. The goal was to be an antidote to the industry norm. They set course to be pioneers, provocateurs and change makers. Reconnecting the land and the dram, re-evaluating the prescribed ‘rules’ of the industry, questioning where the flavour comes from and understanding why agricultural ecosystems are important. This was a journey that would go on to inspire an army of distillers and drinkers across the world.

On this path, it is discovered that the more you learn, the more you know what you need to do. Today, their commitments to people and the planet grow stronger, ensuring the use of their business as a force for good. With an empowered team, they pursue this bigger purpose and maintain the mission to create the most thought-provoking spirits. As Progressive Hebridean Distillers, it is hoped their actions will stimulate other entrepreneurial start-ups to emerge on this island home and further afield, each one adding richness and diversity, paving the way for an increasingly dynamic and self-sufficient future.

.1: 100 % Scottish barley, matured in American oak, mainly 1st fill

.2: 100 % Scottish barley, matured in American oak + finished in European oak (ex-Bordeaux, ex-Sauternes, ex-Amarone, etc.)

.3: 100 % Islay barley, matured in either only American oak or a combination of American and European oak

.4: 100 % Scottish barley, matured in American oak, often virgin American oak

10 YO: 100 % Scottish barley, matured typically in a mix of American and European oak. Has now replaced the .4

There have been 46 Official releases and two Independent releases to date. Initially only five years old, there have now been several releases of 6/7/8/10/12 YOs and one 13 YO.

The Octomore Masterclass_08.3 Islay Barley, 5 YO, 61.2 % ABV of Sep 2017 is their peatiest expression till today. The "normal" peat level for Octomore in the last few years has been 167 ppm, with three going past the 200 mark. This time around they have turned it all the way up to 309 ppm! The edition sold out in no time. The highlights were:

  • The most heavily-peated Octomore to date - at 309 ppm!
  • One farm, one field, one vintage
  • Distilled in 2011 from the 2010 harvest
  • 56% full-term ex-Bourbon, 44% full-term European oak maturation
  • 18 000 bottles

The European oak casks previously held Paulliac, Ventoux, Rhone and Burgundy wines.

Tasting Notes:

Nose: There is a wall of peat here. A wall with a door with a sign with a message reading "Here be phenols! Approach with caution!". A lot spicier than the 8.1. , even 'hostile' conditions.

Taste: Raw ..! Of course there's peat and a certain level of smokiness on the palate as well. Numbs the tongue, so it is a good thing this is a blog. A swimming pool filled with habanero sauce, a huge bean bag full of Szechuan peppers, a ten-storey chimney filled with ashes, and a burnt-down fruit orchard.

Finish: Medium-long finish. Again, as with the 8.1, it turns so delightful, fruity, sweet and soft once the initial shock has abated. Fun how the Szechuan pepper stays all the way to the end. Hot, hot embers of pepper and orchard fruits. There is hardly any bitterness here though. A touch of bitter-ish oak, and there you have it. Sorted!

The Bowmore Arc-52 — $75,000

Don’t say I didn’t warn you. Whether you read that as a promise or a threat might serve as an indicator of how you feel about a 52-year-old single malt that costs more than most luxury cars. This striking creation celebrates the very definition of balance; a point in time where past meets present; where function meets style and where character is intensified. Bringing together the deeply intriguing spirit of Bowmore and the ground-breaking visionary style of Aston Martin, true synergy is created to realise spectacular innovations with the capacity to redefine perspectives and perceptions. A truly futuristic take on a whisky vessel design, seen through the lens of some of the world’s foremost and ground-breaking car visionaries. The design merges natural and man-made contours and shapes in a striking creation which effectively balances on two points, making it seem almost weightless.

Of course, it's hard to fault Bowmore for rolling out the metaphorical red carpet for the ARC-52, the brand's latest partnership with Aston Martin. It's not every day a legendary distillery rolls out a 52-year-old whiskey, and it's not every day a distillery teams up with an automotive icon to create a bottle worthy of installation in an art museum itself.

What exactly does ultra-luxury whisky have to do with an ultra-luxury vehicle? Well, for starters, the stunning contours of the crystal decanter actually evoke the streamlined edges of a Vantage sports car. Also, you literally need a fob to open the metallic topper guarding this sacred liquid. In short, it’s unlike anything you’ve ever seen in the world of whisky. And it holds within the vibrant tropical notes typical to ‘60s-era Bowmore. It was matured for 52 years in two parts: American oak hogshead and European sherry butts, combined to make 100 bottles. 50 were released last year and 50 more this year, 2023. 

                       

Bowmore has drawn inspiration from its stunning surroundings. Islay is home to some of the oldest strata in the world. These rocks have been shaped by the wild elements of Islay over a long period of time, transformed by seasons and enriched by the wild elements. These formations surround Bowmore distillery and they are linked to the origins of their name itself.

Bowmore is the first licensed Islay distillery and calls itself the original Islay. The pioneer that has stood on the shores of Lochindaal, a sea loch opening out into the wild Atlantic Ocean, since 1779. To this day, the distillery still operates in traditional ways, honouring the original whisky-making techniques. Bowmore is still handcrafted today. Time is invested at every stage. And this care and attention to detail create the unique and timeless house style of Bowmore. Unparalleled single malts that remain unimitated and age like no other on Islay.


A truly futuristic take on a whisky vessel design, seen through the lens of some of the world’s foremost and ground-breaking car visionaries. The design merges natural and man-made contours and shapes in a striking creation which effectively balances on two points, making it seem almost weightless.

The ARC-52 is absolutely one of the best Scotch whiskies to taste. It's amazingly well-balanced and light for a spirit that's been maturing in a sherry butt and American oak ex-Bourbon hogshead casks for more than half a century. On the nose, it's dominated, unexpectedly, by flavours of fruit — light, tropical notes that bring to mind sea breezes and swaying palm trees. Those fruit flavours dominate the palate and finish, as well; they're never overpowering, never cloying or sickly, but simply fresh — it has a freshness you wouldn't expect from a 50-year-old whisky.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Deep burnished gold.

Nose: Creamy and fruity with notes of vanilla and custard cream but also well-defined peach, pear, kumquat, mandarin, a hint of guava with herbal notes of fresh mint and eucalyptus.

Taste: Sweet, very fruity and a touch citric with the flavour of green grapes and peach melba, clementine, lime zest but also nutty notes of almond and hazelnuts, tobacco leaves with a lightly peaty ashy and buttery character.

Finish: Herbal with exotic fresh fruits, praline and butterscotch notes.

The decanter is divided into two parts: the glass vessel that holds the liquid, and the metal cap that covers up the mouth. That part is magnetically clasped to the top of the bottle, so it won't tumble off or rattle around. In order to unlock it, Bowmore provides you with a magnet inside a metal lozenge that looks almost exactly like the ones used to lock and unlock cars; hold it against the bottle in the right place, and boop, the magnet releases and the metal sheath slides off the mouth of the bottle.

The Glendronach: Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky

Big, bold and most commonly Sherried, Glendronach is an old-style whisky which echoes the substantial Victorian buildings in which it is made.

Inside the distillery are a traditional rake and plough mash tun, wooden washbacks and four stills which were coal-fired until 2005, the last in Scotland to be heated in this way. Today there is just a quiet susurration of steam in the stillhouse, but the oddly shaped wash still and the plain sides of the spirit still cut back on reflux, helping to build weight in the spirit.

THE ORIGINAL

These days, ex-Sherry casks are the distillery’s signature style. Some are 100% Sherry matured, and some started in ex-Bourbon casks to pick up vanilla sweetness before being racked into ex-Sherry. 

One of a trio of distilleries in the Garioch, Glendronach was founded in 1826 by a partnership of local farmers headed by James Allardice. After a period of ups and downs, Its next most significant owner arrived in 1920, when Capt Charles Grant, the youngest son of William Grant of Glenfiddich, bought it. 40 years later, Wm Teacher & Sons bought it and then added a second pair of stills in 1967. Placed in mothballs between 1996 and 2002, it ended up with Pernod Ricard which sold it in 2008 to The BenRiach Distilling Co., purchased by Jack Daniel’s Tennessee whiskey producer Brown-Forman in 2016, when it fell silent for five years, supposedly for lack of maturing stocks before coming back into a welcoming market as The Glendronach Revival 15 YO. Some Glendronach 15 YO bottles were available in and through 2017, created with older malts, yet sold as a non-chill-filtered 15 YO at 46% ABV.

The smooth scotch embodies The GlenDronach’s signature style of Spanish Sherry Cask maturation in fine Pedro Ximénez and Oloroso sherry casks from Andalucía, quietly growing in stature for 15 years in the darkness of dunnage warehouses.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Vivid coppery orange

Nose: Big sherry aromas, along with cocoa powder, malt, and slightly savoury honey. Water brings out a bit of sharpness to the nose as well as damson jam and raisins.

Palate: The mouthfeel starts off dry and acrid, but it’s a mixture of oak types creating this sensation. Black peppercorn heightens the palate before moving forward to make way for bold roast espresso beans. Sweet, jammy fruit turns drier the longer it’s held on the tongue, allowing rich, nutty PX sherry notes to come to the fore. Spice, citrus, and leather lurk deep in the background. With water, more nuttiness and some additional baking spice.

Finish: Sweet malt, oak, almonds, and a bit of dried fruit, all of which linger, and linger, and linger some more. Ends with cocoa nibs lingering on the tongue. Water adds some lemongrass, anise, and a touch of baked apples. A very long and pleasant finish. 

THE REVIVAL
Overall: The GlenDronach 15-Year-Old is a straight-up representation of the distillery. Once you nose and taste it, you’ll realise why it had a cult following and couldn’t keep up with demand. You get the sherry, but most importantly, you get a specimen that shows off the patience of maturity. Revival 15 is a better whisky than GlenDronach’s previous 15-year-old expression, and it’s a step up from its 12-year-old as well. It holds up well both flavour and price-wise compared to other sherried malts of similar age.

GlenDronach’s 15-year-old expression returned in 2020 with a new twist: Whereas it previously had been aged entirely in Oloroso Sherry casks, it’s now aged in a mix of Oloroso and Pedro Ximenez Sherry casks, with the PX casks imparting a bigger and sweeter fruitiness to the whisky. For newbies and lovers of sherried malts alike, this is one of the best whiskies around for under $100.

It also shows what a difference three extra years of cask ageing can make. GlenDronach’s 12-year-old expression is also aged in the same types of cask, but Revival has a bigger, deeper, and richer flavour in comparison. The Revival is consistent, deliciously so. A few drops of water won’t totally destroy this whisky; some may find it enhancing the profile, but, all in all, they’re not needed, either. The flavour is full, but not overly spicy or hot. There’s no need to dull it down.

As far as sherried malts are concerned, more expensive and prestigious whiskies of similar age, like Macallan’s, cost more, and, frankly, are not quite as good; $90-plus isn’t the world’s greatest bargain, but in comparison, it’s not bad at all.



Sunday 8 January 2023

WWD 2022 SEES SIX NEW WHISKIES

 SIX NEW WHISKIES RELEASED ON WORLD WHISKY DAY 2022


World Whisky Day was founded in 2012 by one Blair Bowman while studying at the University of Aberdeen, Scotland and falls on the third Saturday of May each year

Whether you’re a novice whisky drinker or a seasoned professional passionate about infusing just the right flavours into your brew, you can enjoy World Whisky Day on the third Saturday in May, or May 20, this year. The fact is, whisky is a historical classic that’s been distilled with care for over 500 years. The beverage of kings and peasants alike for generations, whisky is easily poured between friends and can be the catalyst to make some great memories. If you’re a whisky lover, today is the perfect excuse to celebrate with a top-shelf glass and some pals!

HISTORY OF WORLD WHISKY DAY

The ‘water of life’ has had a storied past. The first evidence of distillation — the essential process for creating whisky — dates back to Mesopotamia around 2000 B.C. It wasn’t until 100 A.D. that Alexander of Aphrodisias created the first recorded instance of distillation — he distilled seawater to make it into pure drinking water! Distillation techniques for whisky wouldn’t come around until around 1100, at the earliest, when monks travelling into Scotland fermented grain mash and created the first instance of the beverage.

However, the first year in which whisky was officially mentioned as a distilled product was 1405. It’s written in a family’s history that someone in their clan died after drinking too much at Christmas. Over the next hundred years, whisky distillation became widespread in Scotland. Later, when King Henry VIII of England disbanded monasteries, many monks made their living by selling the whisky they distilled to the general public. Soon, whisky was available to all!

From as early as the 1600s, Scottish immigrants to the new American colonies brought distillation practices with them, and whisky was available quite early in North America. Around the same time, the first whisky distillery in Ireland was officially licensed, in 1608. Whisky made another notable appearance in the 1770s and 1780s, during the American Revolution, when it was so valuable that many distilleries actually used it as a currency. 

England was desperately short of finances to continue its struggles with France and America. The liquor market was its cash cow. Between 1786 and 1803, a span of 17 years, the duties on stills had increased by a factor of more than 77 times. And the energy-sapping and money-draining Napoleanic Wars (1803–1815) were yet to come!

Across the pond, to help fund the Revolutionary War debt, the newly-formed American government imposed a whisky tax on the import and export of the product. This led to unrest between the government and the whisky farmers, eventually resulting in the Whisky Rebellion between 1791 and 1794. Though George Washington sent national forces to quell the Rebellion, the whisky tax remained a contentious issue until Thomas Jefferson’s presidency, when it was repealed.

Throughout the 19th century, there were many inventions and industrialisation practices for whisky. For example, the ‘continuous still’ and the ‘Coffey still’ modernised the distillation process and allowed for much more cheap and efficient production of whisky. The beverage made it through the infamous American Prohibition thanks to a loophole — it was allowed as a medicinal product and was still sold in drugstores! Walgreens profited greatly off of being able to sell the spirit. Bourbon became incredibly popular around 1964 and, even today, whisky is a historic and well-loved alcohol around the world.

Participants are encouraged to drink whisky on the day at events which may be officially registered on the World Whisky Day website. Others participate via social media using the #worldwhiskyday hashtag. The organisers estimate that approximately 250,000 people participated in registered events during the 2014 World Whisky Day while, in 2015, World Whisky Day events were registered on all seven continents. Tax on alcoholic beverages remains on top of the list of money-spinners for most governments, including the UK. As always, a caveat is included; drink moderately if you must and do not drink and drive.

The day was recognised by Members of the Scottish Parliament in a motion in May 2014 and repeated in 2015. The day publicly supports the charitable organisation Just a Drop, which brings sustainable safe water, sanitation and hygiene projects to communities, transforming lives.

In 2022, World Whisky Day fell on Saturday 21 May. Five super Scotch whiskies were released that day, as well as one Indian beauty.

1. Glenfiddich Orchard Experiment

William Grant & Sons unveiled the fifth expression in Scotch whisky brand Glenfiddich’s ‘Experimental’ series: Glenfiddich Orchard Experiment in that week. This bottling is at 43% ABV and is a pioneering single malt Scotch whisky. It is the first in its history to be finished in Somerset Pomona Spirit casks, born out of craft, tradition, and desire for experimentation. The link takes you there.

Discover where the sweetness of Somerset's apple orchards meets Scotland's wild and rugged landscape. This innovative 70cl single malt celebrates and elevates the Glenfiddich sweet and fruity signature style by bringing together two iconic families. Glenfiddich Orchard combines Temperley's apple cider brandy and Grant's Scotch whisky to create this exquisite blend. Hand-selected Glenfiddich whiskies are finished in casks from the Somerset Cider Brandy Company, previously holding sweet Somerset Pomona, for approximately four months to create this incredible fruity and sweet whisky.

Together, they create a Scottish whisky bathed in the sweet warmth of an English summer's day. This truly unique Glenfiddich expression is a tale of two Maverick families, sure to delight whisky and cider enthusiasts alike. It is available as a 70cl bottle in an exclusive gifting tube for an exquisite year-round gifting experience.

While it may appear like yet another instalment in the Highland whisky maker's Experimental Series - which frankly, is there really any whisky maker that doesn't have something of the sort (along with some Art series of some kind) - this is actually a real step outside of what has existed in Scotch-verse. The use of a fruit liqueur cask is something that was only permissible under the revised Scotch labelling rules that (belatedly) changed in 2019, which was in part due to a leaked expose of Diageo's push for Scotch makers to be allowed to use a wider range of casks. Somerset Pomona actually falls under the new rules which specifically allow fruit-based spirits which are made having added fruit after fermentation or after distillation (specifically, this one).

This comes off the back of Scotch makers acknowledging the need to be more competitive as their Irish, Japanese and Australian peers, amongst others, have taken advantage of the restrictive Scotch rules that only allow mainly the Big 4 casks - Bourbon, Sherry, Rum and Wine (not exhaustive, but primarily these) - to get ahead of Scotch by marketing interesting and innovative use of different casks.

Official Tasting Notes

Nose: Glenfiddich notes of fresh pears and ripe orchard fruits, elevated and accentuated by finishing in Somerset Pomona Spirit casks.

Palate: An initial burst of ripe orchard fruits on the palate softens and develops into sweet creamy toffee, caramelised apple, and woody spice.

Finish: Long, lasting sweetness.

2. Loch Lomond 46 YO Single Malt Whisky

Loch Lomond Distillery can trace its roots back to the Littlemill distillery, which was established in 1772 and is the oldest licensed distillery in the world. Its current malt and grain distilleries, in Alexandria, Dunbartonshire, close to the banks of Loch Lomond, were commissioned in 1964 with the first distillation in 1966.

The Remarkable Stills Series from Loch Lomond is a series of whiskies that use its signature unique stills. Each one tells a slightly different story and creates a unique flavour in the whisky. The Remarkable Stills Series 46 Years Old, is the second in the series of three. It’s the oldest in the series too, but that’s because it’s the latest. Loch Lomond has planned for three entries in the Remarkable Stills Series, so we’re just waiting on the third. Each release of the Remarkable Stills series comprises 200 bottles, making them extremely limited. The distillery says the whisky was made as a homage to the distiller’s straight-neck stills and was first distilled in 1974.

This particular dram launched in early 2022, with only 200 bottles on the market. The last one was sold at Christmas. The cost of these bottles was £4,500. For what this dram is, it’s probably worth it as an investment. What we’ve seen happen here is a rare whisky slowly selling out over the course of many months. That’s how it should be because not everyone can afford it. We expect that most of the owners had a tasting first, giving them a chance to appreciate the dram without sacrificing their bottle. It means that every bottle is likely in a sealed collectable condition.

                      

The only place to buy this whisky is directly from Loch Lomond Distillery. However, if you’re reading this long after the fact, your best bet will be the second-hand market. The two locations recommended are Whisky Base and Wine-Searcher. Whisky Base is a community of whisky lovers where collectors share links to buy bottles, but also their own. Wine-Searcher scours the web for retailers and auctions of your chosen bottle. So you should be able to find it somewhere there.

An Investment? There aren’t many reasons not to invest in this whisky. Not only were there only 200 bottles produced, but you can also now say that you own one. Sure, the distillery will earmark number 1 and keep the first five or so back for itself. That’s where you can capitalise on this particular dram. In addition, think of how much this series will be worth with all three bottles together. All you need to do is pick up one of the first and third releases, and you’re sitting on a gold mine. After all, it’s not a random, though well-aged, release, it’s a part of a historical trio.

Bottled at 45.3% ABV, The whisky was matured in American oak casks for 44 years before being transferred to first-fill oloroso and Pedro Ximénez Sherry casks for two years.

Tasting Notes

Appearance: Natural gold plus.

Nose: Toffee and caramelised sugar with floral notes of rose, peach, mango and vanilla syrup.

Palate: Opens with juicy ripe pear, fresh orange peel and sweet melted brown sugar. There is cinnamon and clove spice before dried fruits of raisins and sultanas.

Finish: Long with green fruit, gooseberry and lime, toffee sweetness and warming cinnamon and nutmeg spice. 

3. The Glenallachie 10 YO French Virgin Oak

Glenallachie released Batch One of 12 YO bottlings in its Virgin Oak series in 2021. These were the Spanish, French and Chinquapin Virgin Oak expressions released as coming-of-age bottlings to add to their core range and three special expressions In celebration of Master Distiller Billy Walker’s half-century-long career in the whisky industry, The Past, Present and Future Series, including two 16 YOs and a peated 4YO, their first ever peated expression. These proved to be highly popular and prompted the makers to release another batch of their Virgin Oak Series, Batch 2, which comprised two 10 YO and one 15 YO edition. Their sixth, released on WWD, was the 10 YO French Virgin Oak bottling. This golden bronze malt was first matured in American oak ex-Bourbon barrels before undergoing additional maturation in hogsheads made of French oak (Quercus Robur), sourced from the Haute-Garonne region, for approximately 18 months. The fine-grained wood was air-dried for 15 months before hosting the GlenAllachie spirit.

The secondary maturation period has added silky tannins, sweet spices and fruit notes to this delectable, earthy single malt. Bottled at 48%, natural colour and non-chill-filtered.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Golden Bronze.

Nose: Waves of orange peel, heather honey and soft spice, followed by caramel, orchard fruits and mocha.

Palate: Layers of heather honey, mocha and brittle toffee, with grapefruit, cinnamon, earthy tannins and notes of ginger on the finish.

The First Batch

The Second Batch


The Glenallachie 15YO Scottish Virgin Oak

From Batch 2 of the Virgin Oak Series, this single malt underwent additional maturation in casks made of Scottish Sessile Oak (Quercus Petraea), sourced from the Atlantic coast. Scottish oak is incredibly challenging to work with at all stages of production; growing, milling and coopering. Its rarity, costliness and tendency to knot mean it is scarcely used for whisky maturation.

Before being filled, the wood was air-dried for 36 months, then toasted and charred to a medium level. Using just a handful of casks, the resulting spirit delivers a truly exceptional drinking experience, oozing with vanilla and butterscotch, perfectly balanced with rich notes of cinnamon, ginger and cloves. Bottled at 48%, natural colour and non-chill filtered.

Tasting Notes

Appearance: Golden Sunset.

Nose: Bursting with honeycomb, vanilla pods and citrus fruits, with butterscotch, orange zest and white chocolate.

Palate: Lashings of heather honey, caramelised pine nuts, cinnamon and toffee, followed by orange peel, lemon zest, banana and ginger.

Finish: A little crushed raspberry and red apple peel; medium in length, with some coffee grounds and a little fruity funk.

The Glenallachie 10 YO Chinquapin Virgin Oak

From Batch 2 of the Virgin Oak Series, this exceptional malt was first matured in American oak ex-Bourbon barrels before undergoing additional maturation in casks made of Chinquapin Oak (Quercus Muehlenbergii) sourced from the Northern Ozark region in Missouri for approximately 18 months. The casks were air-dried for almost four years, then toasted to medium level before hosting the spirit. The result is a complex, zesty malt bursting with runny honey, sweet cinnamon and orange peel. Bottled at 48%, natural colour and non-chill-filtered.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Rich Bronze.

Nose: Bursting with orange zest, heather honey and pecan, with notes of butterscotch, nutmeg and liquorice.

Palate: Lashings of cinnamon, barley sugar and toasted biscuits, followed by rose hips, orange peel and heather honey.

Finish: Medium length and fairly simple.

4.  Fettercairn Warehouse 2 Batch No 003

The third release in The Collection, Warehouse 2 Batch No.003 is a seven-year-old that has been crafted using a handpicked selection of Ex-Bourbon Barrels, Rum Barrels and French Red Wine Barriques; filled with the spirit that flowed from the Fettercairn stills in 2015 and has since been maturing in Fettercairn Warehouse 2, and bottled in 2022.

The village and distillery of Fettercairn are near the glen of the North Esk, a river that flows into the sea not far from the town of Montrose. Fettercairn is one of Scotland’s oldest distilleries, reputed to have been founded in 1824. It was rebuilt several times around the turn of the century, and extended in 1966.

Fettercairn has a traditional distillery set-up with an open-topped mash tun (producing cloudy wort), wooden washbacks and small stills. There are even soap grinders on the sides of the wash stills. These would have been used to add non-perfumed soap as a surfactant to stop the stills from boiling over.

Everything points to a firm, quite heavy, nutty style. This was accentuated between 1995 and 2009 when the condensers were made of stainless steel. This added a slightly burnt, pot ale character to the new make. However, a quirky cooling ring attached to the top of the swan neck, which sprays cold water down the sides of the still, aids reflux and helps the spirit lean toward a lighter style.

The single malt is aged mostly in first-fill American oak – some new wood is also in the mix. Three cask types feature in this new batch - ex-bourbon and ex-rum barrels, plus ex-red wine barriques from France. These have been used in the percentages of 57%, 16% and 27%. Pay no attention to the youthful vintage or the cask makeup of this series; this is a great Fettercairn. Despite its youth, it’s every bit as good as older ones by the roadside!

Appearance: Golden yellow in colour.

Nose: Tropical. Lovely, sweet, tropical fruits. Green bananas, sweet grapefruits and melon with pineapple cubes. Powdered icing sugar and candy canes. A little warming spice, peppercorns and vanilla fudge. Water brings a sense of white chocolate too. Time highlights a nice, sweet acidity, like mildly pickled ginger. There’s something green flickering in there too, it’s a little elusive but it is fresh. Basil?

Palate: Juicy and ripe. Spices join the tropical fruit bowl, like a black pepper and powdered ginger garnish that adds a light fizz to things. Some creamy coconut and vanilla swirl with melted Milkybars. No rum or a wine influence, nothing obvious, just gently spiced, sweet fruit. Nothing to betray its single-digit age statement.

Finish: The finish is good and those spices from the late palate help to draw it out further. A hint of burnt orange peel appears alongside the sweet and fruity notes. These slowly fade to reveal the peppery heat, which is the only real suggestion of the whisky's youthfulness.

Overall: This cask make-up is ex-bourbon, rum and red wine barriques, but it’s so well put together that you quickly care not a jot about the details they share on the box. While it takes a drop of water quite well, as it is, everything is just so. It’s just a great scotch whisky. A perfect mix of bright, tropical fruit and gentle spice. Another signal that Fettercairn is here and placing a bid as a serious player in the high-quality malt stakes.

5. The Glengoyne Legacy Series: Chapter Three

A small farm-style distillery located under Dumgoyne, the most westerly extrusion of the Campsie Fells, Glengoyne has long punched well above its weight. Glasgow-based blender Lang Bros changed the distillery’s original name, Burnfoot, to Glen Guin in 1876, which was anglicised to Glengoyne in 1905.

It runs a combination of long and very long fermentations, while distillation in its three stills (one wash, two spirit) is extremely slow. All of the stills have boil bulbs, which increases the amount of copper availability, while the gentle heating of the wash and spirit also helps to maximise the amount of time the alcohol vapour can play with the copper. This maximising of reflux produces a gentle, sweet, and fruity new make.

Single malt bottlings began in the early 1990s when Glengoyne was sold as 'the unpeated malt', while much was also made of the fact that, geographically, the distillery is in the Highlands while its warehouses, directly across the road, are in the Lowlands.

Edrington considered it surplus to its requirements in 2003, selling it to Ian MacLeod for £7.2m. Its new owner has subsequently (and successfully) focussed on developing the brand as a single malt and the distillery as a multifunctional tourist destination.

There is however sufficient weight in the spirit to be able to balance with maturation in ex-Sherry butts – a signature of Edrington’s distilleries – which has been retained by Ian MacLeod.

This 3rd Legacy Series release celebrates Arthur John Tedder, the Glengoyne exciseman who helped define whisky as we know it today, embodying their pursuit of Unhurried Perfection.

The Exciseman stationed at Glengoyne helped in defining the rules of Scotch whisky, inspired by ‘his’ distillery. On March 2nd 1908 – He was the first witness at the Royal Commission on Whisky and other potable spirits. A Royal Commission to determine the very concept of what whisky was. On one side were the purists who only thought Pot Still whisky was whisky; on the other side, Blenders thought grain and malt whisky combined was whisky.

The Scots and the blenders won the day in 2009, after 37 sittings; This was seen as the sensible outcome. Blends could still be called Whisky and called Scotch if distilled in Scotland. Glengoyne uses this exceptional whisky to celebrate Tedder’s influence in the 2009 decision, determining what should make a great Scotch during his time stationed at Glengoyne, the rules to which they still distil to this day.

Tedder would be proud of this exceptional whisky – bottled using some of the very finest American oak sherry casks in our Glengoyne warehouses – and he is thanked for his attention to detail and his exacting standards that not only created rules the whole industry follows today, but also inspired the people of Glengoyne to constantly pursue perfection, and helping to create the Unhurried Glengoyne Way.

Fruity, complex flavours from the slowest stills in Scotland matured in the finest casks, unhurried since 1833.

Tasting Notes

Region: Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky

Bottling Date: March 2022

Wood Type: Hand selected Refill sherry and bourbon casks

Chill filtration: No

Alcohol: 48% ABV

Appearance: Natural Deep Gold

Nose: On the nose, signature Glengoyne deep sherry notes accompany distinctive cinnamon sticks and vanilla aromas.  A very pleasing combination of mixed berry jam and apple strudel intertwine revealing some pear.

Palate: On the palate, a rich luxurious body that’s satisfyingly chewy with warm boozy raisins combining with spiced buns slowly giving way to tarte tatin and smooth cream sherry. Very fruity with rosehip and tropical flavours.

Finish: The finish is light and fruity, with coconut which deepens the hints of pineapple, dried fruits, dark chocolate and lingering spice finish, the hallmark aromatic ‘legacy’ of this wonderful dram.

Overall: the Glengoyne Chapter Three combines freshness, sweetness and a subtle spiciness. It delivers a balance between each of these components and should be a very pleasant sipping whisky on an evening with friends.

6.  The Indri Single Malt

In 1953, Kedar Nath and Sons started a company in Doraha, then in undivided Punjab and soon owned all the liquor distribution contracts in the state. After Punjab was partitioned, the company focussed its operations in the north of Punjab and Himachal Pradesh and in 1994, purchased a sugar mill and distillery in Haryana to proudly enter the alcohol manufacturing business.

Learning from the forefathers of Malt, the master blender maintains the authenticity of the original recipes and processes of making Single Malt. However, their passion for the process does not stop there. Indri believes that the process of making Single Malt is one of recognising new nuances and layers in every step. And with that, they transcend processing with new permutations leading to refreshingly exquisite flavours of Single Malt each time. These little observations make headway for endless discoveries in the way our different Single Malt expressions come to be. An ever-giving process deliberated to experiment for an infinite number of unique expressions to come!

Indri single malt is distilled in Indri, Haryana, near the Himalayan foothills, near the Yamuna basin. This remarkable single malt is made from indigenous six-row barley grown for hundreds of years in Rajasthan. Matured with care since 2010, Indri–Trini is also the first Indian whisky to be produced in three different wooden barrels: in ex-bourbon, ex-wine, and PX sherry casks. The Sanskrit word Indriya or Indris also refers to the senses. From its pleasant, golden, amber colour, to the nutty depth of flavour from burnt pineapple, citrus, and raisins, Indri will tantalize your senses.

Piccadily is the largest independent manufacturer and seller of malt spirits in India. Their distillery has six Scottish-style copper pot stills–three are wash stills (25,000 litres) and three are spirit stills (15,000 litres). Together they produce 12,000 litres of malt spirit daily and four million litres annually.

The height of the wash stills is 9.7 metres and the spirit stills 5.7 metres. The wash stills resemble a lamp while the spirit stills have an onion head in the cone area to increase reflux, resulting in a light, floral and fruity spirit.

Their American-imported oak barrels are assembled, cared for, toasted, charred and repaired by expert in-house coopers.

Piccadily embraces a 70/30 philosophy: 70% of the flavour of their spirits comes from high-quality and attentive labour in the warehouse, which begins with choosing the best barley for our product, while 30% comes from a je ne sais quoi quality, the indescribable mix of the elements and a whole lot of love.

The master blender nosed samples in tulip-shaped glasses and then carefully selected ex-bourbon first fill, virgin oak, ex-wine and ex-sherry casks from a wide palate. Different malts, both peated and non-peated, were considered in combination and left to proverbially marry in casks. Once their union was clearly smooth and natural, the process of bottling began, the final step in the process of making one of the best single malt blends in India.

The trinity that creates a treat for the senses: The magic of the marriage of three different wood casks comes to its splendour when our malts are matured in ex-bourbon, ex-wine and ex-sherry casks. It embellishes our malt with the finest shade of Amber, a whiff of caramelized pineapple, vanilla, hints of black tea, raisins & citrus and subtle nuttiness. The smoothness and flavour linger long after the glass has been put aside.

Tasting notes

Non-chill-filtered, no added colour

Appearance: Amber; golden sunset.

Nose: Gentle and mellow on the nose. Hints of black tea and caramelised pineapple with a whiff of oak comes forward, followed by vanilla and honey from the bourbon oak and traces of spiced tannins from the European oak, finally topped up with vinous raisin and sweet sherry notes.

Palate: Elegant richness, smooth and warm on the sides of the mouth. Gentle spice and wood characters come through, followed by nutty flavours and hints of burnt pineapple, citrus and raisins.

Finish: A subtle and balanced finish, each flavour compliments one another without dominating. A smooth and long after-taste with sweet fruity flavours coming up from the warmth of the throat, lingering long after.

Overall: The whisky is vibrant with so many shades and hues; the multiple maturation showcases very well and gives layers of oomph. There’s a good fusion of spice and sweetness, the latter almost cupping you instantly; representing good complexity and depth. This is surely a whisky that stands above most, but could have transcended higher. Possibly a bit rough around the edges, a bit more subtleness, some added time with the casks would have gifted it greatness!