LEADING WHISKY BRANDS AIM TO REDUCE CARBON EMISSIONS
Leading global alcohol
monoliths Diageo and Pernod Ricard, among others are forging a path towards atmospheric
stability and salubrity. They are constantly pushing the boundaries of
innovation to not only deliver the premium quality and iconic design their
customers expect from them, but to do so in a way that reflects their
sustainability ambitions.
Paper-Based Whisky Bottles
Behind The Bar
Diageo recently tried out a
90% paper-based bottle for its Johnnie Walker Black Label scotch whisky,
suggesting that it could emit 47% less carbon than standard glass solutions. This
trial took place exclusively at Johnnie Walker Princes Street’s 1820 in
Edinburgh. Bartenders served drinks from 250 70cl bottles to test their
feasibility in a bar environment; consumers were able to see the bottles, but
not purchase them. A report on the innovative experiment is awaited.
An external life cycle analysis
claims that the prototype could reduce carbon emissions by 47% compared to the
glass Johnnie Walker Black Label equivalent. It also claims to be approximately
60% lighter. Inside the bottle is a ‘very thin’ plastic liner that, according
to Diageo, does not impact the bottle’s recyclability, as it is not attached or
bonded to the Dry Molded Fibre outer layer. Therefore, it does not require
separation before the components are recycled.
PulPac, Setop DIAM, and PA
Consulting worked with Diageo to produce the bottle closure, which is made from
a combination of cork and similar Dry Molded Fibre paper technology to the
bottle itself; however, it is excluded from calculations and only intended for
use during the trial.
The stopper used in the
trial is not recyclable, but alternative solutions are reportedly in
development.
As a whole, the bottle’s
design maintains the same square shape as previous Johnnie Walker Black Label bottles,
yet cuts unique facets into the sides and embosses the company’s Striding Man
iconography onto the bottle and closure.
This trial took place as
part of the Bottle Collective with PA and PulPac. As the paper-based bottle is
tested and developed further, the partners plan to consider future improvements
to its recyclability.
These bottles break new
ground in packaging design and shows the potential to significantly reduce
carbon emissions, whilst seeking to maintain the elegance, luxury, and bottle
size expected in the premium drinks market.
PulPac’s Dry Molded Fibre
technology opens up new possibilities for cost-effective, lightweight, less
carbon intensive and more sustainable packaging. Feedback collected from
bartenders and the public following the market trial is being evaluated so they
can test and refine the bottle and technology further.
A previous trial saw Diageo
and PA Consulting work together to trial paper-based packaging for Baileys’
Original Irish Cream Liqueur. Designed for recycling in standard paper streams,
the 80ml bottles were served at Time Out Festival in Barcelona, Spain; the
design team used the lessons learned from the trial to inform the technical
aspects of a larger, more complex bottle shape for Johnnie Walker.
Johnnie Walker has also
unveiled its Blue Label Ultra bottle, which is the brand’s lightest 70cl scotch
whisky glass bottle and could potentially be the lightest in the world. The
company aspires to reduce the weight of its glass packaging and lower its
packaging-related carbon emissions.
At 180g without the closure,
Diageo says the new bottle was created by adopting a ‘test-and-learn’ model,
where the whisky brand worked with external glass makers to rethink how the
bottle was designed, made and transported. Apparently, the glass was
hand-blown, and the teardrop shape meant reforming the square Johnnie Walker
bottle for the first time.
As part of the Diageo Spirit
of Progress action plan, Johnnie Walker aims to reduce the weight of glass used
in its packaging, also hoping to reduce the amount of carbon emissions
associated with packaging. Citing a study by British Glass, the company says
actual savings would be project and product dependent, but ‘independent studies
show that, all else equal, for every gram of glass reduced that means over half
a gram less carbon emissions in production’.
Diageo says the technology
is not yet available to launch bottles of this weight at scale - however,
Johnnie Walker has been granted a UK patent, and a license to the patent will
be offered on a royalty-free basis to any interested parties, aiming to
encourage further progress in the industry. Reportedly, 888 bottles of the new
design will be produced and a limited number released for sale in 2025 in
selected markets worldwide, with an RRP of £1000.
The technical challenges
that light-weighting presents required incorporation of various design and
production specifications that could not have been envisaged at the start of the
journey; from the requirement of a tear drop shape to the addition of a
protective cage to allow for a round base, and the hand-making and filling of
each individual bottle to avoid damages in production. It is hoped that the
discoveries will have a positive impact within the wider industry and help
discover new possibilities for lighter, lower carbon packaging alternatives.
In July 2024, Diageo and
ecoSPIRITS announced a global agreement to distribute Gordon’s gin, Captain
Morgan rum, and Smirnoff vodka in reusable packaging at bars, hotels, and
restaurants via the ‘lower carbon, lower waste’ ecoTOTE technology. The
agreement is set to offer a ‘flexible framework’ in which Diageo can pilot and
scale circular packaging in 18 markets within the space of three years.
Laphroaig
Butterfly Cannon has
launched a new campaign for Laphroaig’s Scotch Whisky, hoping to enhance the
storytelling elements of its gifting strategy and encourage consumers to buy
Islay single malts as presents.
The new campaign is inspired
by the line of green wellie boots lined up in the boat room of the visitor
centre at Laphroaig’s distillery. These are reserved for the ‘Friends of
Laphroaig’ community, who are given the opportunity to claim a piece of Islay
land and are loaned a pair of wellies to walk to their plot. Butterfly Cannon
was inspired by this ‘overt symbol of Laphroaig’s connection with their land’
and took note of the boots’ flexible rubber, fold-over top, adjustable buckle,
and sturdy tread. It combined these features with Laphroaig’s signature green
colour, logo lockup, and an ‘L’ pattern on the tread of the boot to produce the
new, boot-shaped pack.
It is designed for reuse as
an outdoor container for such items as camping gear, art supplies, water
bottles, or other Laphroaig bottles. As such, it features a side strap for easy
carrying and is built for durability.
Chivas Regal 18 YO
Whisky company Chivas Regal
has unveiled a new look for its Chivas Regal 18, with a reported 25% glass
weight reduction on its flagship 70cl bottle and ‘fully recyclable outer
packaging’.
The updated bottle features
a taller, more rounded shape and a layered, multi-faceted label. A traditional
Scottish symbol, the Luckenbooth, is now positioned at the centre of the label
and embossed into the glass base.
The Chivas Regal shield and
crossed spears have also been embossed into the glass. Named The Gold Signature, the updated carton -
said to be fully recyclable - features gold detailing and a gold-coloured tin
lid finished with Chivas Regal master blender Sandy Hyslop’s signature in gold lettering.
The company states its
flagship 70cl bottle’s reduction in glass weight is expected to save over 500
tonnes of glass annually, based on FY24 volume sales. The new design brings
Chivas Regal 18 in line with Chivas Regal 12, which unveiled a new look in
2021 and follows the transformations of Chivas Extra and XV.
The new Chivas Regal 18
bottle not only showcases Pernod Ricard’s dedication to luxury with its refined
design but also highlights ongoing efforts to reduce environmental impact. By
reducing glass weight and transitioning to fully recyclable outer packaging, they
are taking significant steps towards a more sustainable future. The new Chivas
Regal 18 bottle will be rolling out globally from Oct 2024.
An All-New Look For Chivas
Regal 12 YO
Starting 2022, the same,
signature 12-year-old blended smooth Scotch whisky was levelled up with a
bolder bottle in a richer shade of ruby. You’ll still see the familiar rounded
shoulders of the bottle design, but it now stands taller and prouder – and on
greener credentials, too. The 12 years spent in the cask are honoured with bold
XII numerals, sitting below the sleeker, emblematic Chivas Regal crest, which is
etched carefully into the capsule and glass.
In 2021, the first carton
was produced which depicted scenes from Scottish history and folklore. King
Robert the Bruce on his battle charger and scenes from the Battle of
Bannockburn were embossed into the foil carton, alongside images showing
Highland dress in the 16th to 19th centuries. The Chivas Brothers Crest also
depicted King Robert, with the Gaelic motto ‘Treibhireas Bunaiteachd’
(translated to ‘fidelity and stability)’ above him. The new Chivas Regal 12
bottle pays homage to its incredible history, while turning boldly to the
future.
Chivas Regal 12 now uses
100% recyclable and environmentally friendly packaging materials as we accelerate
towards our 2025 target of 100% recyclable, reusable, compostable or bio-based
packaging, which will save 92 tonnes of plastic per year. The reduced weight of
the new Chivas Regal 12 bottle saves more than 1,000 tonnes of glass each year,
with its completely plastic-free packaging saving 2.3 million plastic bottles.
Lastly, all-new delivery boxes lessen the energy needed in the recycling
process. Together, these components contribute substantially to reducing
Chivas’ CO2 emissions.
This year's collection is a
continuation of the Spirited Xchange that delves deeper into flavour
exploration, experimenting with various cask combinations that challenge
expectations, essentially about curiosity and what happens when you challenge
yourself to think ‘what if’. This has led Diageo to explore a variety of
exciting maturation techniques, from selecting a novel combination of casks for
The Singleton, to taking both Ramandolo white wine and Sangiovese red wine
casks to finish Mortlach and bringing a totally new dimension of flavour to its
unmistakably umami identity.
The Diageo Annual Special Release is a selection of
whiskies that fans of great malts eagerly await each year. Each release now
consists of eight whiskies; Diageo has more than 30 distilleries, some more
active than others, from which it can source these whiskies. Collectors around
the world usually chase each Release with unbridled fervor, hopefully to drink
and share these gems, but we all know that some will be squirrelling these
bottles away for a future date…
The Special Releases 2024 collection unveiled in New York on 30 Sep 2024
continues the Spirited Xchange theme. While the first year of Spirited Xchange
broke boundaries in whisky-making by blending global cultures and innovative
flavours, this year's collection dares to ask, "What if?" Diageo aims
to challenge expectations, offering fresh perspectives that push the limits of
flavour and craftsmanship for its iconic brands, showcasing its confidence and
unwavering dedication to excellence.
Every whisky in this collection serves as a
stage for innovation. It’s a journey to reimagine the essence of some of the
world’s most iconic brands, using experimental cask pairings and surprising
flavour profiles. The expertly curated ‘Spirited Xchange: Second Edition'
delves into unexplored realms of aroma and taste. The primary opening line in each case is: What if?
This collection, while
a compilation of rare and unique single malts that explore new flavours and
maturation techniques, includes five brands that featured last year, in
different form, of course and three new names. New for 2024 are the Benrinnes 21 Year Old; an unpeated Caol Ila that is not something seen often and a Glen Ord product, a 14-YO Singleton. A new version of Roseisle 12 Year Old which appeared in 2023 for the first time, and now gets a very similar follow-up, completes the lineup.
All whiskies are youngish to middle-aged, between 8 years and 14 years old, with the Benrinnes being the only release that is quite a bit older. As always, each whisky in the
collection is bottled at natural cask strength and without chill-filtration to
ensure it is presented in its undiluted authentic flavour.
Prices for the 2024 collection are about in
line with previous years—it opens at just $105 for a uniquely finished 8 year
old Talisker, and tops off at $480 for the ultra-aged Benrinnes. Their quality
justifies their price, says Diageo, trolled last year for unjustified prices.
Not only did many European retailers refuse to take bulk orders, but prices at several
retailers also dropped within three months of first release. Expressions of expensive releases are fairly easily available today at marked down prices:
Talisker Tidal Churn: An
8-year-old Talisker matured in bourbon casks and finished in stone-spun and
re-toasted American oak
Oban Coastal Orchard: A
10-year-old Oban aged in refill American oak and partially finished in
oloroso-seasoned American oak
Roseisle Origami Kite 2: A
second release from Speyside distiller Roseisle
Lagavulin Fireside Tales: A
Lagavulin with an ABV of 57.4%
Mortlach Midnight Dusk: A
Mortlach with an ABV of 57.5%
Benrinnes Grand Crescendo: A
21-year-old Benrinnes
Caol Ila Ambrosial Feast: An
11-year-old Caol Ila with a creamy, nutty mouthfeel and green apple flavors
The Singleton of Glen Ord
Autumn Walk: A Reappearing Singleton with an ABV of 54.7%
Talisker 8 YO ‘Tidal Churn’ 58.7% ABV OB
RRP £89.95
Finished in stone-spun Oak casks
“What if a whisky
could channel the power of ocean tides?”
This 8 YO Talisker was matured in both
refill and first-fill bourbon casks. It was finished in stone-spun oak casks, wherein
stone is rotated against the wood, gently eroding the existing char which is then
gently washed away by flowing water, and again in re-toasted American oak.
Singularly unusual casks which foster singularly unusual flavours. That initiates the answer!
Dive deep into the elemental power of the
ocean with Talisker 8 Year Old - Tidal Churn, an expression that channels the
raw energy of the tides allowing fruity notes of pear, apple, and vanilla to
emerge with bold clarity. The finished whisky, old gold in colour with an amber
hue and thick and slow beads is a testament to Talisker’s
maritime heritage, where waves of seaweed, pepper, spices, pear and apple rise
beneath the distillery’s signature maritime smoke creating a dynamic tasting
experience that surges with oceanic intensity. An answer constituted!
Experience Talisker’s smoky, sea-salted
character in all its glorious dimension—perfect for those who crave a whisky
imbued with the untamed power of the sea.
Nose: TCP/iodine, plaster, kippers, wet
vegetation (peat), wood smoke, grilled lemon and pineapple, almond paste,
vanilla custard and pepper.
Palate: Bold and punchy, with the typical
Talisker brine and peppers. It's both sweet and sour, and quite peaty (although
a bit less than on the nose). TCP, tar, smoked barbecue bacon, lime juice, green
pineapple, vanilla, and wood chips. Towards the finale it gets increasingly
spicy and a tad bitter.
Finish: Long, spicy (pepper) and woody,
with an earthy influence. Chili pepper, liquorice, wood chips, nutmeg,
shellfish and salted lime.
Overall: Like almost every Talisker, this is very decent. On the other hand these slightly weird casks don’t offer a unique fingerprint. It leaves one wondering why Diageo keeps pushing out so many 8 YO Taliskers as ‘special releases’.
Oban Coastal Orchard: 10YO, 58% ABV, RRP £108.95
Finished in charred American oak barrels
seasoned with Oloroso sherry.
“What if the
smallest seed could give rise to a magnificent orchard?”
Discover the charm of Oban 10 Year Old - Coastal Orchard, a whisky that evokes the vibrant beauty of a sea-sprayed orchard in full bloom. Hailing from one of Scotland’s smallest distilleries, this exquisite 10 year old expression marries the rugged coastal influence with delicate orchard sweetness.
Oban’s Coastal Orchard is a vibrant expression that has been aged and harmoniously blended in American oak refill barrels and then partially finished in new freshly charred American oak barrels that have been seasoned with oloroso Sherry,
creating a flavour profile of coastal air and rich orchard fruits. One doesn't see that many cask strength Oban releases on the market, and it is always a nice refreshing change to try this Highland malt with a little sherry cask influence. The quest is straightforwrd: "What if the smallest seed could give rise to a magnificent
orchard?" As the answer, begin with "imagine the humblest of seeds taking root deep within a coastal bay. A
magnificent sea-sprayed orchard blooms, born of a tiny shell."
Continue on that line: With every tide’s fall a harmonious burst
of flora ripples with warm waves of nectar, bathing the coast in aromatic
bounty. Oban Distillery is one of Scotland’s smallest distilleries but its
whiskies thrive with imposing character. This 10-year-old expression is matured
in refill casks, before being selectively finished in newly charred American
oak barrels, freshly seasoned with oloroso sherry, imparting baked apple notes
and subtle wisps of sea salted vanilla. Expect notes of charred oak, a bouquet
of spiced nutmeg, sweet cinnamon and hints of clove. There you have it!
Nose: Worty malt, good bourbon casks with
moderate caramel and vanilla plus soft coconut and milk lolly-geared lactones,
orchard stone fruits and a bit of marzipan nuttiness.
Palate: Way more sherry driven, a bit
vinous plus some mushroom/ nutty undertones. Some nice crunchy white fruits
running underneath plus hints of melon and peach, soft cask spices with
lactones and still a wee twinge of new-make. If your dram is from the lower
half of a 2-month old opened bottle, some oak/sherry extractive flavours come
up; since it is still a bit young to have had sufficient interaction, it does
still play a touch young. The rancio is very appealing, especially for those
that are big fans of Amontillado.
Overall: A testament to Oban Distillery’s artistry, this limited-edition release is both verdant and lush, with a fragrant, sweet-spiced character that speaks to its coastal heritage. Perfect for those seeking a whisky that blends coastal freshness with a richly layered orchard sweetness.
Matured in a combination of first-fill
ex-bourbon and refill casks.
“What if simplicity made
for perfection, like the folds of a kite?”
A paper kite swirls in the Scottish sky.
Simple and delicate, it rides the highland winds with wondrous endurance. Each
lift is a testament to artisanship.
From the cutting-edge Roseisle Distillery, their
second-ever expression boasts smoothly integrated aromas and soaring tastes
that defy the complexity of its marriage of three spirit streams in distinctly
different cask types. The Malt Master evokes a sublime Single Malt Scotch
Whisky that soars with profound flavour, building on the folds of a previous
flight, born of seemingly simple elements, matured in first-fill ex-Bourbon and
refill casks for 12 years.
A paper kite swirls in the Scottish sky.
Simple and delicate, it rides the highland winds with wondrous endurance. Each
lift is a testament to artisanship. The second ever expression from the cutting-edge
Roseisle distillery evokes a sublime Single Malt Scotch that soars with
profound flavour, building on the folds of a previous flight, born of seemingly
simple elements.
Matured in first fill ex-Bourbon and refill casks, the deep
amber medium-bodies spirit embedded with coppery lights provide rich flavours
blossoming with smooth creamy texture. Notes of ripe fruit and white chocolate
lie beneath the sweet vanilla aroma. Nuanced spice balance warm complexity, leading
to an experience of pure harmony from technical artistry with very fine beading
and good legs. Precise refinement to achieve exquisite balance.
Nose: Sweet vanilla, ripe fruit, and creamy white chocolate aromas.Pleasantly
mild, wine-like, supported by a slightly tart fruitiness reminiscent of unripe
redcurrants.
Palate: Hints of vanilla icing and vanilla
ice cream, balanced at once by a spirit-spicy complexity that carries a rich
fruitiness.
Finish: Quite long, finishing richly sweet
and lightly spicy with a controlled peppery warmth.
Overall: With its graceful composition,
Origami Kite II is a whisky that elevates the senses, offering a refined yet
powerful expression born of simplicity and precision. Can be had neat or on the rocks.
Matured in classic first-fill
ex-bourbon and refill casks.
“What
if smoke was tamed into inviting sweetness?”
This 12 year old
Lagavulin is billed as far softer, subtler, and sweeter than the Islay
distillery’s usual smoky, phenolic offerings, a result of extended time spent
in a combination of bourbon barrels, re-fill American oak hogsheads, and
re-fill European oak butts.
Awaken a Scotch whisky
that bears the tales of oak, like a warm memory that takes hold. Just as Islay
folk fall quiet settling into fireside storytelling, and a burning fire turns
to gentle embers, and open the gateway to the revelation of a softer dimension to the legend of Lagavulin.
The Lagavulin
character becomes sweeter and gentler in this medium-bodied expression thanks
to its maturation in first-fill bourbon and refill casks for a lush and glazed
aroma. A classic phenolic and powerful Lagavulin, this unusual expression shows
that there can also be a softer, sweeter, spicier side to the mighty king of
Islay. This is Lagavulin character made sweet under the command of active oak.
Bold smoke quietened to a hush, a testament to oak’s dynamic influence on bold
character: powerful peat tempers into inviting sweetness. Therein lies the
answer. Made for the curious at heart. Expect notes of thick
toffee, vanilla, and coconut, unfurling with aromatic spice.
Nose: Drying in feel,
and quite gentle. Fresh, clean phenols rise to the fore at once with aromas of
a smoldering bonfire on a distant beach.
Palate: Smoothly
creamy and really mouth-filling in texture, very sweet to taste at first then
quickly drying, with a sprinkling of salt and a controlled smokiness.
Finish: Long, finally
powerfully smoky and drying, with a twist of warming spice that also lingers in
the aftertaste.
Overall: It’s the
perfect whisky for a good fireside tale, a classically sweet expression of power.
Finished in Italian ramandolo and sangiovese wine
casks.
“What if a whisky could rival
the Aperitivo moment?”
Mortlach rarely gets an age statement in the Special
Releases, but almost always a funky cask finishing. True to form, Mortlach is
the sole non-age statement whisky among the Special Releases. This year, the
dram was aged in refill and first-fill bourbon barrels, then finished in
ramandolo and sangiovese wine—Italian sweet white and red, respectively—casks. Layered
crisp fruit, caramelised miso and a hint of cured prosciutto notes emerge for
an audaciously umami and fruity flavour, but that gives nothing away about how
long it was worked upon where, leaving one with a deep, bold, and deliciously
seductive Mortlach, whose wayward character with a bewitching tint in its radiance
that will take one from twilight into the night.
Step into the enchanting realm of Mortlach - Midnight
Dusk, a whisky that captures the decadent allure of twilight. Known as
"The Beast of Dufftown," Mortlach’s bold character takes on a new
dimension, rivalling the elegance of the aperitivo hour. The interplay of umami
and sweetness creates a captivating experience, layered
with earthy tones from the Sangiovese casks and the honeyed warmth of Ramandolo
wine, bold, seductive, and layered with intrigue. Truly complex with varying
interplay of sensations.
Nose: Heady top notes make a vinous first impression,
suggesting white grapes and Manzanilla sherry. Soon the aromas become fresh,
floral and fruity.
Palate: Layered crisp fruit on the palate, with
caramelised miso, the ultimate reference point for the umami—deeply savoury,
with toasty, funky salty-sweet richness and a hint of uncooked, unsmoked, and
dry-cured ham.
Finish: A wonderfully umami finish.
Benrinnes Grand
Crescendo: 21 YO, 55.4% ABV, OB, £284.35
Double matured for thirteen years in
wine-seasoned American Oak, European Oak, and rejuvenated casks with charred
ends.
"What if we doubled the volume on
fruity flavour?"
The orchestra takes centre stage for a sensory symphony. Thunderous flavour. Extravagant richness. Booming fruitiness, with the resounding bass line of double maturation.
This full-bodied spirit is deep and full-flavoured; the mature Benrinnes is a
vibrant, opulent dram that offers great waves of rich, fruity taste yet retains
a splendid balance and will be enjoyable at any time.
The Benrinnes 21 Year Grand Crescendo is a reimagining
of an iconic Scotch whisky brand through adventurous cask combinations. The
whisky here was first matured for 8 years in refill casks and then further
matured for 13 years in wine-seasoned American oak, European oak, and
rejuvenated casks with charred ends.
Immerse yourself in the grandeur of Benrinnes 21 Year
Old - Grand Crescendo, an opulent whisky that amplifies fruity flavours to new
heights. With double maturation in both American and European oak wine casks,
this expression delivers an extraordinary symphony of flavours, booming with
extravagant richness and depth.
Aged for varying periods in multiple casks
to rejuvenate maturation, this 21 year old whisky unveils a crescendo of
overripe dark fruits, stewed pear, smashed fig, and caramelised apple. These
vibrant notes reverberate on the palate, creating a sensory experience that is
both thunderous and harmonious. Crafted with intentional complexity, Grand
Crescendo transcends the ordinary, offering layers of bold, fruit-forward
flavour that lingers long after each sip. Deep amber, with rose lights at first sight, one sees good beading and good legs, a harbinger of better things to follow.
Nose: Overripe dark fruits, stewed pear,
and caramelised apple, with a touch of oak spice.
Palate: Rich and bold, featuring smashed
figs, dark fruits, and layers of caramel and oak. Becomes deliciously sweet-savoury, with an unmissable lick of salt amid spicy intensity.
Finish: Very long and fruity, with warming oak
spices and a crescendo of sweetness. Dryness at the very end.
Overall: A whisky made for sybarites seeking
an indulgent and unforgettable experience.
Matured in refill, rejuvenated, and
rejuvenated ex-wine American & European Oak casks.
“What if there was a whisky worthy of mythical
ambrosia?”
A most unexpected Caol Ila (many wouldn’t
guess it so), this rare unpeated expression has little of the peated make’s
smoky and “fresh clean” nature yet brings the same urgency to a new and
compelling taste, exploring the lighter, smoother, fruitier side of the spirit.
Ascend into creamy, nutty bliss with this
2024 Special Releases offering from Caol Ila Distillery. Unusually unpeated, 57.3%
ABV Caol Ila 11YO Ambrosial Feast Single Malt Scotch Whisky can be enjoyed neat
or as you prefer. A rare expression, crafted with short fermentations and
cloudy worts, showcased in this year’s highly sought-after iconic Special
Releases collection and presented in a limited edition collectable carton
inspired by Renaissance and Rococopaintings. The aim was to
produce a creamy, nutty spirit with green apple notes marketed at full cask
strength. Both red and white wine casks were used to elevate it to Ambrosia,the food and drink of Greek
and Roman gods and goddesses, believed to grant immortality to those who consumed
it.
They succeeded in capturing a blissful
interplay between rich nutty character and delicious orchard fruit. Shorter
fermentation bore cloudy worts that made for an indulgent and gloriously
creamy, nutty mouth feel, while carefully partly-filling the pot stills allowed
higher copper contact to bring forth complementary fresh and vibrant green
apple flavours and spicy accents.
Matured for 11 years in that mix of
refill & rejuvenated wine casks in memory of the gods and goddesses of yore,
this cask make-up brings out a perfect balance of orchard fruit freshness and
spicy warmth. A whisky worthy of mythical ambrosia, Caol Ila Ambrosial Feast
invites you to ascend from Islay’s rugged shores to a realm of luxurious
flavour and sensory delight.
Nose: Nutty, creamy notes with fresh
green apple and a hint of spice.
Palate: Smooth, creamy mouthfeel with
orchard fruits, nutty undertones, and a peppery kick.
Finish: Creamy and rich, with lingering
fruity freshness and subtle spice.
Overall: A whisky worthy of mythical Ambrosia.
Singleton Of Glen Ord Autumn Walk: 14 YO,54.7%
ABV, OB, RRP £126.95
Matured
in a mix of experimental casks with European oak and Pyrenean oak cask ends.
"What if we made a whisky bathed in the soft warmth of autumn light?"
Imagine walking through a forest on the
slopes of the Pyrenees—a perfect moment of carefree joy. Autumn leaves blanket
the ground, their reds and oranges surrounding you. Golden rays filter through
the canopy, casting light across a gradient sky. That's the scenario that
inspired this single malt whisky's creation.
This 14-year-old expression from The
Singleton Glen Ord went through a compound maturation schedule. Here, three parcels of single malt were first aged in ex-bourbon, rejuvenated ex-wine casks and refill casks respectively. After 10 years, the blend was aged for four more years in a mix of experimental casks with European oak and Pyrenean oak cask ends. Ergo, an experience of vibrant orchard fruit flavours, fragrant aromatics, and grassy notes as crisp as the
mountain air, balanced by a comforting sweetness that blooms with vanilla,
toffee, and spice. Immerse yourself in a moment where Autumn's vivid light
meets the rich warmth of this exquisite whisky.
Nose: A mellow nose in feel; mild overall.
The first aromas suggest an orange cream cake filling, becoming orange sponge
cake with a hint of vanilla. Beneath this lie a faintly waxy suggestion of
flaked almonds and a light ‘green’ note, suggesting sugar snap peas or mange
tout. fragrant aromatics and grassy notes as crisp as the air unfolds. A drop
of water increases the waxy note.
Palate: A creamy texture, which is quite
tooth-coating. The taste starts sweet and centre palate, becoming tart, with a
strong hint of Seville orange peel, then drying gently as it shows its fierier
side with some peppery spiciness. A freshness balanced with comforting
sweetness that swells with vanilla, toffee and spice. A drop of water sweetens
the taste and reduces the tartness yet does not alter the overall profile.
Finish: Long, warming, and spicy, with a
mouth-cooling aftertaste. Still spicy with a dash of water.
Overall: An evocative blend of nature’s beauty and skilled craftsmanship, indulging in the vivid glow of autumn, where every sip mirrors the splendour of an autumnal landscape. Fruity and balanced from the least touted Singleton distillery.
What are the Diageo Special Releases? For fans of malt
whisky and, in particular, those who prefer their single malt bottled at a
higher strength beyond the standard 40% ABV, there are some annual expressions
and releases to look out for each year.The Diageo Special Releases is one such range and, for most markets
around the globe, its annual arrival and launch is a much-heralded and
anticipated event.
Collectability seems to be at the heart of the
evolution of the modern-day Diageo Special Releases. To be fair, the Special
Releases were always sought-after by collectors – mostly because of the
standout whiskies that were included and not because of their custom labels. It
wasn’t until recently that collectors were targeted much more openly, starting
with the first ‘Rare by Nature’ series in 2019.
Hitherto, the Diageo Special Releases were simply a
range of whiskies launched at the same time, not linked through an overarching
theme. The whiskies were often inherently special because of the content inside
the bottle, not because of packaging or elaborate marketing stories. The
reputation of the Diageo Special Releases is built on the quality and rarity of
many of its earlier whiskies. And this rarity is completely missing from the
current iteration of the Special Releases.
Artists were commissioned to create artwork for each of
the Diageo Special Releases 2023, the labels aspiring to be “visual tasting
notes, placing the expression at the centre of the experience and exploring the
flavours that emerge from the local spirit casks.” For example, the Mortlach
was finished in ex-Kanosuke casks, so the artwork was made by Japanese
illustrator Kouzou Sakia.
All the truly exclusive and rare whiskies from Diageo
have moved to the Prima & Ultima range. As a result, the Special Releases
are now a stripped down version of their former selves. It’s not surprising that
last year’s Special Releases are still easily available. And those from two and
three year ago are too. It’s becoming more rare for Special Releases to quickly
sell out.
Some leading whisky shops in Europe won’t be stocking
the Diageo Special Releases 2023 at all. Certain others have bought less. That’s
their response to the rise in prices. For example, the recommended retail price for the
new Lagavulin 12 Years Cask Strength is closing in on 200 euros. And the new
Clynelish 10 Years is priced even higher. How sustainable can this current
course be? It feels like something may need to change for the Special Releases
to have a long-term future.
So why did Diageo create the Prima & Ultima series
to begin with. Why take that aura of exclusivity and rarity away from the
Special Releases? What is bruited about is that they wanted to make the Special
Releases more accessible and (relatively) affordable for new drinkers. But that
has never been what the Special Releases were about.
Of course, it is understandable Diageo is not letting
go of the Special Releases. They’ve created and curated a valuable brand that
is worth protecting. But wouldn’t it have made more sense to keep the integrity
of the Special Releases intact, and to launch a new, affordable range just
below it? Because in all honesty, the term Special Releases may not truly befit the occasion
anymore. For comparison sake, I've added a video of one of last year's whiskies and its sibling this year.
The theme for 2023 was ‘Spirited Xchange’, featuring Single
malt whiskies from 8 distilleries, some well-known, others a little more
obscure. They’ve become a marketing exercise focussing beyond the liquid,
luring (new) drinkers in with elaborate tales of “cultural exchange of
flavours, craft and artistry.”
The Diageo Special Releases 2023 range followed the
pattern and theme of all previous years:It showcased some favoured Diageo distilleries, as well as some of the
ones that see less of the limelight.Indeed, the Diageo Special Releases 2023 selection featured the first
ever official bottling release of Roseisle, together with the less seen Glendullan,
under its Singleton persona.
Looking critically at the Diageo Special Releases 2023,
there are two whiskies that warranted calling a Special Release. Firstly, the
Glenkinchie is of sufficient age AND the oldest-ever released by Diageo.
Secondly, it’s great that they’ve included the inaugural release from
Roseisle. But the other six whiskies? There are got two whiskies without an age
statement, which always makes it hard to properly evaluate their specialness.
And the other four have matured 10 to 14 years – not very noteworthy indeed.
Matured in a mix of 1st-fill and Refill ex-bourbon
casks.
Roseisle is groundbreaking in its production processes,
energy efficiency and sustainability credentials, capturing of CO2 for
commercial applications, and in its ability to create different styles of malt
under the one roof. For example, the
stills are connected to dual condensers – one copper, one stainless steel. Thus, by selecting which condenser to send
the spirit vapours through, the distillery can control the character of the
spirit produced. Roseisle wasn’t first envisaged to ever be bottled as a single
malt – but then the whisky game is forever evolving and re-shaping. This is the first commercial, official
expression of Roseisle and whilst it will likely be viewed as a curiosity to
many, it is certainly a bottling that can stand up on its own two feet.
Nose: There’s a nice mixture between wood-influenced
vanilla elements and fruity citrus notes. Pastel de nata with pomelo and yuzu,
along with hints of chaff, meringues and crème caramel. A sliver of almond oil
too, and maybe even some candle wax.
Taste: Buttery mouthfeel. Notes of peanut skins,
charred oak and a slight spicy bitterness kind of overshadow some of the more
fruity, Speyside-y elements. But they’re there. Just somewhat hidden. Think
honeycomb, some chocolate, and stewed apples.
Finish: Medium. Nicely integrated sweetness.
Overall: A mite extra nutty and spicy. An agreeable
introduction to this unknown distillery.
Matured in a combination of refill ex-bourbon barrels
and European oak butts.
That this particular expression is the result of a more
conventional cask maturation regimen and is thus in more familiar territory notwithstanding,
the whisky has been beautifully matured and has melded perfectly with the
oak.27 years is an old whisky in
anyone’s language but, despite the many years in wood, the spirit is still in
harmony with the oak and there’s no sense of dryness, tiredness, or
over-maturation.The spirit is still
fresh and vibrant, but has been beautifully shaped and mellowed by the cask
influence.
Nose: Very elegant, supremely delicate. The floral
notes weave in and out. It is somewhat leafy also, but there are touches of
melted butter, some warm apple compôte, and a hint of orange zest too. Maybe
not the most complex, but neatly integrated and sophisticated.
Finish: Medium length. Lingering oak tannins, some
char, then settling into sweeter notes like honey. Even a touch of aniseed.
Overall: Elegant, sophisticated, covering up a fleeting
sense of youthfulness. Lives up to expectations. Best of all, there’s still a
wonderful complexity to the spirit that belies its old age.An outstanding dram.
Lagavulin The Ink of Legends: 12 YO, 56.4% ABV, RRP€194.99
Finished in Don Julio Anejo Tequila casks.
Fans of Lagavulin won’t be disappointed with this.While the old flagship expression at 16 years
continues to be the benchmark and reference point for many Lagavulin fans,
there have been ample 12 year old expressions of Lagavulin across many
campaigns over the last decade to suggest that 12 years is a pretty good sweet
spot for this much-loved distillery.The
tequila cask influence is subtle, but – whether psychosomatic or real – you
could close your eyes and easily convince yourself you’re drinking a quality,
smoky mezcal here. It is extremely light in colour too.
Nose: A sort of creamy saline solution with hints of
charred citrus. Briny oysters too. Also a whiff of driftwood, honeycomb,
bonfire smoke, and oregano, as well as a touch of barbecued beef.
Taste: A fatty mouthfeel. Thumbs up, always. Then an
initial sweetness as well as pickled lemons, followed by cracked black
peppercorns, earthy peat smoke, a few pinches of salt and orange pith.
Finish: Medium to long. Lingering spices, quite dry and
fairly sweet.
Overall: Lagavulin’s Cask Strength whiskies are revered
and this year’s edition is once again very good, although, in the context of
previous releases, much sweeter.
Talisker The Wild Explorer: NAS, 59.7% ABV, RRP €144.99
Finished in a combination of White, Tawny and Ruby Port
Casks.
Bottled at its natural cask strength, Talisker The Wild
Explorer is a surge of warmth courses through your senses, emanating a sweet,
charred essence. The powerful crash of sea-salt spray against the ship's bow
rekindles the adventurous spirit within resolute sailors. Like the iconic
Portuguese caravel, braving the unforgiving sea to reach the farthest corners
of the earth, the Malt Master pays tribute to the Portuguese origins of these
intrepid vessels by maturing this exceptional maritime whisky in a unique blend
of Ruby, White, and Tawny port casks.
Compared to previous Diageo Special Releases
expressions of Talisker, this is a milder expression, certainly in terms of the
peat.There is less of the iodine and
dry peatsmoke seen in other recent expressions, but the signature seaweedy,
maritime note was still very much on display.The port cask influence is evident with some dry spices, together with
an alluring sweetness that complemented the malt.
Nose: Opening up on hints of smoked paprika powder,
cured meats and a gentle coastal breeze, as well as some seaweed, dried red
fruits (dates, raisins) and chalk. The gentle wood smoke is accompanied by a
touch of iodine.
Taste: Pretty classic Talisker. A distinct pepperiness
accompanied by wood smoke and a sweetness that presumably comes from some of
the ex-Port casks. Not too much wood influence though. Some damp oak too, as
well as a good pinch of salt and dried fruits.
Finish: Medium to long. The pepperiness lingers. The
salty smoke too.
Overall: A cross between the Talisker Port Ruighe and
the Talisker 57° North. Good whisky that doesn’t lean on the ex-Port casks, but
doesn’t shy away from it either.
Oban The Soul of Calypso: 11 YO, 58% ABV, OB, RRP €173.99
Finished in Caribbean pot still Rum Casks.
Bottled at natural cask strength, there is a vivid
energy and a vibrant mix of Caribbean cultures collision in a roar of
jubilation, amidst a euphoric atmosphere. Bright colours burst forth to the
parading beat of steel drums. Celebrating the passionate soul of the Caribbean,
spinning Soca dancers lift their faces to the tropical sun, exuberant and
radiant in the exotic sea air. Inspired by the merging of rhythms in the
beating heart of calypso, the Malt Master finished this lively Oban expression
in Caribbean Pot Still rum casks. The vibrant combination evokes unexpected
tropical notes which build on Oban’s own clever fusion of the Highland and
Island styles.
Much of Oban’s marketing makes mention of its coastal
location, which is amusing when you consider very little of the spirit actually
matures there.Nonetheless, there is a
maritime character to many Oban bottlings, and this is no different.The rum cask influence lends a butteriness to
the palate, together with hints of sugar cane, mango, bananas, mint and citrus.
Nose: Opening up on gentle hints of bananas and an
overall estery fruitiness with a hint of grasses and herbs. Slightly funky, one
might say. Also a whiff of orange zest, charred lemon peel and tinned apricots.
Then poached pears too.
Taste: Quite an aggressive, almost hot arrival. A good
pinch of salt accompanied by spices, charred oak and a distinct nuttiness; sugar
cane, mango and bananas come through. Water calms things down somewhat, adds a
minty touch and elevates the cereal notes too.
Finish: Short to medium. Lingering spices, eucalyptus,
almond paste and a delicate sweetness.
Mortlach The Katana’s
Edge: NAS, 58% ABV, OB, RRP €304.99
Finished in a combination of ex-Kanosuke
Japanese whisky and ex-Pinot Noir casks.
Mortlach has traditionally been a more
robust and meatier malt, courtesy of its use of wormtubs and the complex
distillation process employed with its partial triple distillation.This Mortlach is no different.Whilst the decision to bottle without an age
statement may tempt some to believe the whisky is young, there’s certainly no
hint of youth on the nose or palate.The
master blender has used a traditional bourbon barrel and finished the new make
in Japanese Kanosuke whisky and ex-Pinot Noir barrels. This combination ensures
a surprising whisky that is hinted at with a samurai warrior on the label. The
whisky is well crafted, and very drinkable.
Nose: Baked pastries, a hint of tree bark
and some licorice, but mainly darker fruits. Buckwheat honey, blackcurrants.
Plums. Raspberry. Slightly muted though. Also a whisper of chocolate, white
pepper, leather, brown toast and pencil shavings.
Taste: A rather thick mouthfeel. The
cloying nature of the Pinot Noir is present, as are the dark fruits. Then
aniseed, more plums, raspberries, strawberries, plums, a touch of cloves and
charred wood.
Finish: Medium length. A touch of menthol, fruit
candy, cinnamon and chocolate.
Overall: The Mortlach The Katana’s Edge is
a bit atypical, although some of the distillery’s more meaty characteristics
are recognisable.Well balanced and eminently drinkable.
Clynelish The Jazz Crescendo: 10 YO, 57.5% ABV, OB,
RRP€204.99
Matured exclusively in ex-bourbon American Oak cask.
Whilst its stablemate and predecessor, Brora, has
demonstrated it can mature to grand old ages and prosper, Clynelish hits its
sweet spot at 10-14 years, as seen with this bottling as a classic example. Clynelish’s
malt has always been flavoursome and complex in its own right, and it is
perhaps no coincidence that it’s the only malt in the Diageo Special Releases
2023 range to come from a single cask type.The first-fill ex-bourbon casks have done the work beautifully; these
barrels allow notes of caramel and vanilla spices to be revealed, while
retaining the excellent character of the distillery. No further adornment is
necessary. Yes, it starts off young-give it a few minutes and it becomes exactly
what you would expect from a Clynelish.
Nose: Allow the swirled alcohol to settle to get mellow
aromas on the nose that begin a mineral and maritime theme, then become sweeter
and rounder, their golden melody anchored by an earthy bass note. Waxy exactly
like you want your Clynelish to be. Fruity with touches of white grapes, unripe
bananas and zesty lemons, as well as vanilla-flavoured sweets, a hint of wet
pebbles and that gentle sea breeze.
Taste: Somewhat waxy, but not extremely so. The fruits
take centre stage here, almost to a tropical degree. But there’s a honey-esque
sweetness to underpin everything, along with some peppery spice, walnuts and a
pinch of salt.
Finish: Medium. Sweet and waxy with some coconut
shavings.
Overall: An excellent 10 YO but devilishly expensive.
The Singleton of Glendullan The Silken Gown: 14 YO, 55% ABV, OB RRP
€154.99
Finished in Chardonnay de Bourgogne French Oak casks.
For many years an anonymous, workhorse distillery for
Diageo, Glendullan finally appeared in the limelight when it was included in
the re-vamped Singleton range.The name
“Singleton” was originally meant for Auchroisk back in the 1990’s. “The
Singleton of Auchroisk” was marketed into the early 2000’s before being
retired.The Singleton name was then
reincarnated a few years later as a collective brand name for the Glen Ord,
Dufftown, and Glendullan distilleries.This particular expression is a little dry on the palate, without losing
anything of its elegance and exclusivity.
Nose: Wave away the first whiff and it opens up on pastry, grass, vanilla and sugared
cereals, and also gentle stone fruits, green apples and some pear skin. It certainly seems buttery and creamy, two key
characteristics of Chardonnay wine. Other notes include some grass, apples, honey, and apricots.
Taste: The palate follows a similar pathway, albeit
with an added spiciness. Think white pepper. Dense, a good mouthfeel. Fairly creamy.
Layers of sweetness. Butterscotch. Cotton candy. But also some walnuts, gentle
orchard fruits and a tinge of grapefruit.
Finish: Medium length and somewhat drying. A whisper of
salted butter, toffee and apple peel.
