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Thursday 10 October 2024

SPECIAL RELEASES: DIAGEO 2023

Diageo Special Releases 2023

What are the Diageo Special Releases? For fans of malt whisky and, in particular, those who prefer their single malt bottled at a higher strength beyond the standard 40% ABV, there are some annual expressions and releases to look out for each year.  The Diageo Special Releases is one such range and, for most markets around the globe, its annual arrival and launch is a much-heralded and anticipated event.

Collectability seems to be at the heart of the evolution of the modern-day Diageo Special Releases. To be fair, the Special Releases were always sought-after by collectors – mostly because of the standout whiskies that were included and not because of their custom labels. It wasn’t until recently that collectors were targeted much more openly, starting with the first ‘Rare by Nature’ series in 2019.

Hitherto, the Diageo Special Releases were simply a range of whiskies launched at the same time, not linked through an overarching theme. The whiskies were often inherently special because of the content inside the bottle, not because of packaging or elaborate marketing stories. The reputation of the Diageo Special Releases is built on the quality and rarity of many of its earlier whiskies. And this rarity is completely missing from the current iteration of the Special Releases.

Artists were commissioned to create artwork for each of the Diageo Special Releases 2023, the labels aspiring to be “visual tasting notes, placing the expression at the centre of the experience and exploring the flavours that emerge from the local spirit casks.” For example, the Mortlach was finished in ex-Kanosuke casks, so the artwork was made by Japanese illustrator Kouzou Sakia.

All the truly exclusive and rare whiskies from Diageo have moved to the Prima & Ultima range. As a result, the Special Releases are now a stripped down version of their former selves. It’s not surprising that last year’s Special Releases are still easily available. And those from two and three year ago are too. It’s becoming more rare for Special Releases to quickly sell out.

Some leading whisky shops in Europe won’t be stocking the Diageo Special Releases 2023 at all. Certain others have bought less. That’s their response to the rise in prices. For example, the recommended retail price for the new Lagavulin 12 Years Cask Strength is closing in on 200 euros. And the new Clynelish 10 Years is priced even higher. How sustainable can this current course be? It feels like something may need to change for the Special Releases to have a long-term future.

So why did Diageo create the Prima & Ultima series to begin with. Why take that aura of exclusivity and rarity away from the Special Releases? What is bruited about is that they wanted to make the Special Releases more accessible and (relatively) affordable for new drinkers. But that has never been what the Special Releases were about.

Of course, it is understandable Diageo is not letting go of the Special Releases. They’ve created and curated a valuable brand that is worth protecting. But wouldn’t it have made more sense to keep the integrity of the Special Releases intact, and to launch a new, affordable range just below it? Because in all honesty, the term Special Releases may not truly befit the occasion anymore. For comparison sake, I've added a video of one of last year's whiskies and its sibling this year.

The theme for 2023 was ‘Spirited Xchange’, featuring Single malt whiskies from 8 distilleries, some well-known, others a little more obscure. They’ve become a marketing exercise focussing beyond the liquid, luring (new) drinkers in with elaborate tales of “cultural exchange of flavours, craft and artistry.”

The Diageo Special Releases 2023 range followed the pattern and theme of all previous years:  It showcased some favoured Diageo distilleries, as well as some of the ones that see less of the limelight.  Indeed, the Diageo Special Releases 2023 selection featured the first ever official bottling release of Roseisle, together with the less seen Glendullan, under its Singleton persona. 

Looking critically at the Diageo Special Releases 2023, there are two whiskies that warranted calling a Special Release. Firstly, the Glenkinchie is of sufficient age AND the oldest-ever released by Diageo. Secondly, it’s great that they’ve included the inaugural release from Roseisle. But the other six whiskies? There are got two whiskies without an age statement, which always makes it hard to properly evaluate their specialness. And the other four have matured 10 to 14 years – not very noteworthy indeed.

So let's get down to the whiskies:

Roseisle The Origami Kite: 12 YO, 56.5% ABV, OB, RRP €144.99

Matured in a mix of 1st-fill and Refill ex-bourbon casks.

Roseisle is groundbreaking in its production processes, energy efficiency and sustainability credentials, capturing of CO2 for commercial applications, and in its ability to create different styles of malt under the one roof. For example, the stills are connected to dual condensers – one copper, one stainless steel. Thus, by selecting which condenser to send the spirit vapours through, the distillery can control the character of the spirit produced. Roseisle wasn’t first envisaged to ever be bottled as a single malt – but then the whisky game is forever evolving and re-shaping. This is the first commercial, official expression of Roseisle and whilst it will likely be viewed as a curiosity to many, it is certainly a bottling that can stand up on its own two feet.

Nose: There’s a nice mixture between wood-influenced vanilla elements and fruity citrus notes. Pastel de nata with pomelo and yuzu, along with hints of chaff, meringues and crème caramel. A sliver of almond oil too, and maybe even some candle wax.

Taste: Buttery mouthfeel. Notes of peanut skins, charred oak and a slight spicy bitterness kind of overshadow some of the more fruity, Speyside-y elements. But they’re there. Just somewhat hidden. Think honeycomb, some chocolate, and stewed apples.

Finish: Medium. Nicely integrated sweetness.

Overall: A mite extra nutty and spicy. An agreeable introduction to this unknown distillery.

Glenkinchie The Floral Treasure: 27 YO, 58.3% ABV, OB, RRP €409.99

Matured in a combination of refill ex-bourbon barrels and European oak butts.

That this particular expression is the result of a more conventional cask maturation regimen and is thus in more familiar territory notwithstanding, the whisky has been beautifully matured and has melded perfectly with the oak.  27 years is an old whisky in anyone’s language but, despite the many years in wood, the spirit is still in harmony with the oak and there’s no sense of dryness, tiredness, or over-maturation.  The spirit is still fresh and vibrant, but has been beautifully shaped and mellowed by the cask influence. 

Nose: Very elegant, supremely delicate. The floral notes weave in and out. It is somewhat leafy also, but there are touches of melted butter, some warm apple compôte, and a hint of orange zest too. Maybe not the most complex, but neatly integrated and sophisticated.

Taste: The creamy texture is enjoyable. It certainly doesn’t give away its age. Not as delicate as you might expect. The European oak provides some wood spices, there’s plenty of fudge, a whisper of ginger, some crème brûlée and a tinge of orange marmelade.

Finish: Medium length. Lingering oak tannins, some char, then settling into sweeter notes like honey. Even a touch of aniseed.

Overall: Elegant, sophisticated, covering up a fleeting sense of youthfulness. Lives up to expectations. Best of all, there’s still a wonderful complexity to the spirit that belies its old age.  An outstanding dram.

Lagavulin The Ink of Legends: 12 YO, 56.4% ABV, RRP €194.99

Finished in Don Julio Anejo Tequila casks.

Fans of Lagavulin won’t be disappointed with this.  While the old flagship expression at 16 years continues to be the benchmark and reference point for many Lagavulin fans, there have been ample 12 year old expressions of Lagavulin across many campaigns over the last decade to suggest that 12 years is a pretty good sweet spot for this much-loved distillery.  The tequila cask influence is subtle, but – whether psychosomatic or real – you could close your eyes and easily convince yourself you’re drinking a quality, smoky mezcal here. It is extremely light in colour too.

Nose: A sort of creamy saline solution with hints of charred citrus. Briny oysters too. Also a whiff of driftwood, honeycomb, bonfire smoke, and oregano, as well as a touch of barbecued beef.

Taste: A fatty mouthfeel. Thumbs up, always. Then an initial sweetness as well as pickled lemons, followed by cracked black peppercorns, earthy peat smoke, a few pinches of salt and orange pith.

Finish: Medium to long. Lingering spices, quite dry and fairly sweet.

Overall: Lagavulin’s Cask Strength whiskies are revered and this year’s edition is once again very good, although, in the context of previous releases, much sweeter.

                         

Talisker The Wild Explorer: NAS, 59.7% ABV, RRP €144.99

Finished in a combination of White, Tawny and Ruby Port Casks.

Bottled at its natural cask strength, Talisker The Wild Explorer is a surge of warmth courses through your senses, emanating a sweet, charred essence. The powerful crash of sea-salt spray against the ship's bow rekindles the adventurous spirit within resolute sailors. Like the iconic Portuguese caravel, braving the unforgiving sea to reach the farthest corners of the earth, the Malt Master pays tribute to the Portuguese origins of these intrepid vessels by maturing this exceptional maritime whisky in a unique blend of Ruby, White, and Tawny port casks.

Compared to previous Diageo Special Releases expressions of Talisker, this is a milder expression, certainly in terms of the peat.  There is less of the iodine and dry peatsmoke seen in other recent expressions, but the signature seaweedy, maritime note was still very much on display.  The port cask influence is evident with some dry spices, together with an alluring sweetness that complemented the malt.

Nose: Opening up on hints of smoked paprika powder, cured meats and a gentle coastal breeze, as well as some seaweed, dried red fruits (dates, raisins) and chalk. The gentle wood smoke is accompanied by a touch of iodine.

Taste: Pretty classic Talisker. A distinct pepperiness accompanied by wood smoke and a sweetness that presumably comes from some of the ex-Port casks. Not too much wood influence though. Some damp oak too, as well as a good pinch of salt and dried fruits.

Finish: Medium to long. The pepperiness lingers. The salty smoke too.

Overall: A cross between the Talisker Port Ruighe and the Talisker 57° North. Good whisky that doesn’t lean on the ex-Port casks, but doesn’t shy away from it either.

                          

Oban The Soul of Calypso: 11 YO, 58% ABV, OB, RRP €173.99

Finished in Caribbean pot still Rum Casks.

Bottled at natural cask strength, there is a vivid energy and a vibrant mix of Caribbean cultures collision in a roar of jubilation, amidst a euphoric atmosphere. Bright colours burst forth to the parading beat of steel drums. Celebrating the passionate soul of the Caribbean, spinning Soca dancers lift their faces to the tropical sun, exuberant and radiant in the exotic sea air. Inspired by the merging of rhythms in the beating heart of calypso, the Malt Master finished this lively Oban expression in Caribbean Pot Still rum casks. The vibrant combination evokes unexpected tropical notes which build on Oban’s own clever fusion of the Highland and Island styles.

Much of Oban’s marketing makes mention of its coastal location, which is amusing when you consider very little of the spirit actually matures there.  Nonetheless, there is a maritime character to many Oban bottlings, and this is no different.  The rum cask influence lends a butteriness to the palate, together with hints of sugar cane, mango, bananas, mint and citrus.

Nose: Opening up on gentle hints of bananas and an overall estery fruitiness with a hint of grasses and herbs. Slightly funky, one might say. Also a whiff of orange zest, charred lemon peel and tinned apricots. Then poached pears too.

Taste: Quite an aggressive, almost hot arrival. A good pinch of salt accompanied by spices, charred oak and a distinct nuttiness; sugar cane, mango and bananas come through. Water calms things down somewhat, adds a minty touch and elevates the cereal notes too.

Finish: Short to medium. Lingering spices, eucalyptus, almond paste and a delicate sweetness.

Mortlach The Katana’s Edge: NAS, 58% ABV, OB, RRP €304.99

Finished in a combination of ex-Kanosuke Japanese whisky and ex-Pinot Noir casks.

Mortlach has traditionally been a more robust and meatier malt, courtesy of its use of wormtubs and the complex distillation process employed with its partial triple distillation.  This Mortlach is no different.  Whilst the decision to bottle without an age statement may tempt some to believe the whisky is young, there’s certainly no hint of youth on the nose or palate.  The master blender has used a traditional bourbon barrel and finished the new make in Japanese Kanosuke whisky and ex-Pinot Noir barrels. This combination ensures a surprising whisky that is hinted at with a samurai warrior on the label. The whisky is well crafted, and very drinkable.

Nose: Baked pastries, a hint of tree bark and some licorice, but mainly darker fruits. Buckwheat honey, blackcurrants. Plums. Raspberry. Slightly muted though. Also a whisper of chocolate, white pepper, leather, brown toast and pencil shavings.

Taste: A rather thick mouthfeel. The cloying nature of the Pinot Noir is present, as are the dark fruits. Then aniseed, more plums, raspberries, strawberries, plums, a touch of cloves and charred wood.

Finish: Medium length. A touch of menthol, fruit candy, cinnamon and chocolate.

Overall: The Mortlach The Katana’s Edge is a bit atypical, although some of the distillery’s more meaty characteristics are recognisable. Well balanced and eminently drinkable.

Clynelish The Jazz Crescendo: 10 YO, 57.5% ABV, OB, RRP €204.99

Matured exclusively in ex-bourbon American Oak cask.

Whilst its stablemate and predecessor, Brora, has demonstrated it can mature to grand old ages and prosper, Clynelish hits its sweet spot at 10-14 years, as seen with this bottling as a classic example. Clynelish’s malt has always been flavoursome and complex in its own right, and it is perhaps no coincidence that it’s the only malt in the Diageo Special Releases 2023 range to come from a single cask type.  The first-fill ex-bourbon casks have done the work beautifully; these barrels allow notes of caramel and vanilla spices to be revealed, while retaining the excellent character of the distillery. No further adornment is necessary. Yes, it starts off young-give it a few minutes and it becomes exactly what you would expect from a Clynelish.

Nose: Allow the swirled alcohol to settle to get mellow aromas on the nose that begin a mineral and maritime theme, then become sweeter and rounder, their golden melody anchored by an earthy bass note. Waxy exactly like you want your Clynelish to be. Fruity with touches of white grapes, unripe bananas and zesty lemons, as well as vanilla-flavoured sweets, a hint of wet pebbles and that gentle sea breeze.

Taste: Somewhat waxy, but not extremely so. The fruits take centre stage here, almost to a tropical degree. But there’s a honey-esque sweetness to underpin everything, along with some peppery spice, walnuts and a pinch of salt.

Finish: Medium. Sweet and waxy with some coconut shavings.

Overall: An excellent 10 YO but devilishly expensive.

The Singleton of Glendullan The Silken Gown: 14 YO, 55% ABV, OB RRP €154.99

Finished in Chardonnay de Bourgogne French Oak casks.

For many years an anonymous, workhorse distillery for Diageo, Glendullan finally appeared in the limelight when it was included in the re-vamped Singleton range.  The name “Singleton” was originally meant for Auchroisk back in the 1990’s. “The Singleton of Auchroisk” was marketed into the early 2000’s before being retired.  The Singleton name was then reincarnated a few years later as a collective brand name for the Glen Ord, Dufftown, and Glendullan distilleries.   This particular expression is a little dry on the palate, without losing anything of its elegance and exclusivity.

Nose: Wave away the first whiff and it opens up on pastry, grass, vanilla and sugared cereals, and also gentle stone fruits, green apples and some pear skin. It certainly seems buttery and creamy, two key characteristics of Chardonnay wine. Other notes include some grass, apples, honey, and apricots.

Taste: The palate follows a similar pathway, albeit with an added spiciness. Think white pepper. Dense, a good mouthfeel. Fairly creamy. Layers of sweetness. Butterscotch. Cotton candy. But also some walnuts, gentle orchard fruits and a tinge of grapefruit.

Finish: Medium length and somewhat drying. A whisper of salted butter, toffee and apple peel.

               

 

 

Monday 7 October 2024

GODAWAN DOUBLE AT SIP WHISKY AWARDS

 The Best Indian Single Malt Whisky:
The 2024 SIP Awards

The Indian single malt whisky category has seen great expansion in recent years, with prominent brands expanding their ranges beyond Indian-made foreign liquor, IMFL. As with all globally accepted single malt whisky today, Indian single malt must be matured for a minimum of three years in oak casks, be the product of a single distillery, distilled from nothing other than water, yeast and malted barley. There is, however, no embargo on the type of casks used thereafter for finishing or on the use of botanicals to impart specific flavours.

Earlier this year, the SIP Awards announced the results of the 2024 competition. Held in California, the SIP Awards relies on consumer judges rather than industry experts, allowing drinkers to asses spirits from across the globe from an unbiased position. Amongst the many entries were Indian single malt whiskies.

The SIP Awards 2024

The SIP Awards are held annually in California, USA. In a unique approach to spirit competitions, the SIP Awards is the only such international spirits competition that invites consumers to be judges. On their website, the SIP Awards says: “The SIP Awards were created with a simple question in mind, “What about the consumer’s opinion?” The goal was to fill this void, bringing the people who regularly consume your product together to decide which brands deserve this prestigious award.” Founded in 2009 by Paul Hashemi, the SIP Awards strives to stir up momentum for award-winning brands, helping them bring their products to a wider audience, and put the power in the hands of whisky consumers.

Each spirit that is entered into the SIP Awards is sampled double-blind and in a controlled environment to ensure fairness for all competitors.

Godawan Single Malt Rich And Rounded Artisan Whisky

Medal: Platinum

Tasting Notes: Raisin, sultana, fig, apricot, mature wood, caramel, “butteriness like baklava”

Godawan Indian Whisky, owned by Diageo India, is making waves in the Indian whisky world. Launched in the US earlier this year, Godawan is expanding the Indian single malt category with two rich and complex single malts. Distilled and matured in the deserts of Rajasthan, the whisky matures quickly in the dry heat. As such, Godawan has a very distinctive profile.

The Platinum medal-winning expression from the distillery is Godawan – 01 “Rich and Rounded”. Distilled from locally-grown six-row malted barley, the Indian single malt is then initially matured in Pedro Ximénez sherry casks. Then, it is filled into second-fill ex-bourbon barrels (already used to mature Godawan whisky) that have been treated with two Indian botanicals: Rasna and Jatamansi. The resulting whisky is something completely unique to Godawan and to the Indian single malt whisky category.

Paul John Nirvana Indian Single Malt Whisky

Medal: Double Gold

Tasting Notes: Fruit cake, honey, caramel, apricot, raisins, apple

Paul John made its name in India by making Indian-made foreign liquor (IMFL) distilled from molasses, like 98% of Indian whisky still is today. However, this Double Gold Medal-winning expression is an Indian single malt whisky.

No-age statement and bottled at 40% ABV, Paul John Nirvana was distilled from Indian barley and matured in charred American oak casks. Like Godawan whisky, Paul John is matured in a much hotter climate than even in the US – the distillery is located in the beautiful Indian state of Goa. This means a higher angel’s share, a quicker maturation, and a rich profile. Paul John is also widely known for its peated expressions such as Bold or Edited. However, Nirvana is made with unpeated barley, resulting in a sweet and sippable flavour.

Godawan – 02 Single Malt Fruit And Spice Artisan Whisky

Medal: Double Gold

Tasting Notes: Vanilla, sweet ginger, coconut, clove

Godawan was awarded another medal at the 2024 SIP Awards. This time, a Double Gold medal went to Godawan – 02 “Fruit And Spice”.

Distilled from the same mash bill as Godawan 01, “Fruit & Spice” was matured in cherry wood casks. Vikram Damodaran, Chief Innovation Officer for Diageo India explains the decision to use cherry wood casks for the second edition of Godawan Indian whisky: “Cherry wood casks release abundant vanilla and clove aromas into the liquid. This results in flavors of vanilla, sweet ginger, and coconut at the forefront.”

Godawan 02 is also finished in the botanical-treated casks. This is a very unusual practice by international standards and is associated more with the making of gin. However, the sheer number of awards won by Godawan demonstrates that this unique approach caters to many different palates.

Secret Island Indian Single Malt Whisky

Medal: Gold

Tasting Notes: Tropical fruit notes and subtly spicy flavour

Secret Island Indian Single Malt Whisky, is, like Paul John, produced in Goa. Producer Cheers Group began as a small IMFL producer. Like many other Indian whisky brands, it has recently branched out into Indian single malt whisky.

Inspired by Scottish maturation methods, Secret Island whisky is matured in cool, dark warehouses with earthen floors, much like the traditional Scottish dunnage warehouses. The whisky is matured in oak casks sourced from Scotland and other countries around the world.

Presented in a uniquely shaped decanter, the bottle is a talking piece just as much as the whisky is.

The Kadamba Indian Single Malt Whisky

Medal: Gold

Tasting Notes: Peat, sherry trifle, oaky vanilla, fruit, spice

Last, we have another expression matured in sunny Goa. The Kadamba Indian Single Malt Whisky is the flagship expression of the brand. It is double-distilled and matured in a combination of ex-bourbon, ex-sherry, and virgin American oak casks.

The Kadamba is also owned and produced by The Cheers Group. And, sticking to a unique marketing strategy, the whisky is also presented in a striking 3D cut glass effect decanter.

Produced in extremely limited quantities, it seems as though this whisky is currently only available in Goa. But do keep an eye on retail sites to find yourself a bottle.

Tuesday 24 September 2024

GLENMORANGIE NECTAR SENSATION

GLENMORANGIE NECTAR 16 YO SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY 

History Of Glenmorangie Distillery

Glenmorangie has a fascinating backstory, with ties to Celtic lore, ancient kingdoms, and local community. The Glenmorangie logo was inspired by the mysterious and ancient Cadboll Stone. In the eighth century, a kingdom of tribes known as the Picts ruled Scotland’s north-east, including the peninsula that would become home to Glenmorangie. The Romans gave the Picts their name, inspired by their custom of painting scenes from the landscape around them onto their bodies.

One of the best surviving testaments to the Picts is the Hilton of Cadboll stone, into which they carved their story. Discovered centuries later, it has since been restored and now resides in the National Museum of Scotland. The swirls of the Glenmorangie logo are inspired by the intricate carvings of the Stone, in tribute to the Picts who first cultivated the golden barley fields that Glenmorangie harvests today to create their distinctive single malt whiskies.

The portion of the Cadboll Stone from which the Glenmorangie logo comes

Situated next to the Dornoch Firth in a series of handsome red sandstone buildings, the Glenmorangie distillery started life as the local brewery for the town of Tain in 1730, having produced other alcohol since 1703, in all probability, illegal hooch. It belonged to the reputable Matheson family, who would have eschewed illegal stuff in favour of beer, explaining the choice of a brewery drawing its water from the small stream known as Morangie Burn. While the earliest evidence of beer brewing in Scotland dates to the Neolithic period, brewing in this period was a relatively small scale, local operation, simply a part of community activity.

Distillation was legalised in 1823 and the eldest Matheson scion, William, went to Elgin in Moray, Speyside to observe and study distillation. In 1843, twenty years after learning the intricacies of distilling, William Matheson bought a tract of land adjacent to Tarlogie Springs and built a distillery there, a stone's throw away from the brewery, with a licence to distill. He must have also obtained a licence to sell, though no specific mention is made thereof. The brewery was closed down in stages. Starting with a single pot still, it took six more years for the first new make to trickle out of Glenmorangie. The second pot still was installed and made operational anon and the distillery remained in the family until 1887.

Matheson set himself apart to put history in motion by creating a single malt at a time when others were focussed on blends. The complex whisky he created was inspired by the distillery’s peaceful surroundings on the banks of the Dornoch Firth. But buyers of whisky would select their brands from their preferred grocer, rather than from a producer. The grocer held the purse-strings and could and did blend Matheson’s malt whisky. His single malt floundered. Sales weren’t too brisk so the distillery was sold to the Maitland brothers and Duncan Cameron. The common Morangie component of all these names comes from the Morangie Burn mentioned supra, though it draws its water from a mineral- water source, the Tarlogie Springs, making this one of a small number of hard water sites in Scotland.

The new owners saw immediately that the design of the stills, which were short and squat, left a lot to be desired, attributing the low sales volume to inferior quality product. They brought the Taylor family from the adjoining village into their fold. Taylor owned a gin mill a couple of miles away from and the trio decided to bring the tops of their gin stills up to Tain and add them to the short still necks, while the bodies were sold off. Such was the origin of the tallest neck stills in Scotland.

Reputed welders did a good job of amalgamating the necks. The slight bulges that protruded at the joint were also visible from inside the necks and were retained. In fact, all newer stills made thereafter, till today, retain all bulges/dents and inner scorch/joint marks and slight reduction (less than half of one inch) in diameter. But then they ran into an unexpected problem-the roof was too low to accommodate the new stills. Holes were punched in the roof allowing the necks to stick out into the open, but this was detrimental according to professional consultants, who strongly advised proper protection against the vagaries of weather. Accordingly, the roof was rebuilt at a greater height and a suitable condensation chamber created. The distillery did not remain cost-effective and was soon to go to market.

The business was sold to a partnership between two blending and broking firms, Macdonald & Muir and Durham & Co, soon passing entirely to the former, which used the whiskies for single malts, blended malts and blended Scotch. These products were very successful and the owners found they couldn’t ramp up output due shortage of maltings. The company’s principal brand of blended whisky was named Highland Queen, marking the historic association between the port of Leith where Macdonald & Muir was based, and Mary Queen of Scots, who landed there from France in 1561. In 1896, the Muir family had built a Brewery at Elgin’s boundaries (where the burgh’s gallows once stood), taking its water and power from the fast-flowing River Lossie alongside on the westernmost slopes of the Speyside hills leading to the river. Ownership went to the younger Muir son, while the elder was busy with his own venture with his brewery converted to distillery Glenmorangie in the Highlands.

Following his successful brother, Muir Jr converted it to a distillery in 1898. This distillery was not as carefully crafted as its Highlands mate, flooding regularly on marshy land, but was also named Glenmorangie, a family trend. In the slow-motion era of those days, nobody realised this replication, till annual tax assessment fell due and the duplication was discovered. Muir Jr was told to change the name of his distillery. Glen Moran was not accepted as a viable alternative, leading to its final name, Glen Moray. In 1902, Glen Moray slowed down distilling operations, shutting it down by 1910. A large number of small dwellings came up between the adjoining RAF airfield and the distillery.

Glenmorangie found a solution to its low-volume problem in 1898 with the operationalisation of the new brewery turned distillery at Elgin's boundaries, probably a major factor in the initial selection of its name. Muir Jr was told to continue to produce maltings and provide them to Muir Sr. After a year-long preparation, a supply chain was established and Glen Moray became a maltings supplier to Glenmorangie. On Muir Jr's demise, the distillery was acquired by Glenmorangie, again a family decision.

Although it was bottled in small quantities from the 1920s, a change of strategy in 1959 saw Glenmorangie burgeon as a single malt that soon became Scotland’s biggest seller. Apparently the tall stills, with its kinks intact and found to be the tallest in Scotland, made a considerable difference to the subtlety, softness and enduring characteristics of the distillate. Cask quality was to prove the second factor in its popularity.


This was not the first time that this had happened, however. Records show that at the end of the 19th century Glenmorangie single malt whisky bottled at nearly 63% ABV was being sold at The Savoy and other top-end London hotels, as well as being exported. Once fully organised, Glenmorangie produced only the one single malt whisky, The Original, selling it at 10 years of age. All other brands in the earlier days, i.e., since 1890, were either precursors to or offshoots of The Original.

Early success in the single malt category resulted in two more exact replica stills being added to the original pair in 1976, a number which was doubled again in 1990. Dr Bill Lumsden joined the distillery in 1995 and brought with him unique ideas, which were to prove best-selling. He got the owners to order and purchase specific slow growth, air-seasoned Ozark Mountain oak barrels that were first used as Bourbon-whisky casks. The single malts from these barrels were extracted and transferred for two more years into ex-Oloroso Sherry casks to emerge as the Lasanta 12 YO; into Quinta Ruban Port casks to emerge as the Quinta Ruban 12 YO and into French Sauternes wine casks to emerge as the Nectar d'Or 12 YO.

In 1996 the firm changed its name to Glenmorangie. The very next year, they acquired the run-down distillery of Ardbeg on Islay from Allied Distillers for £7 million, giving them a second family of single malt whiskies with a profile radically different to that of Glenmorangie, virtually the two opposing ends of a rainbow. Surprisingly, the owners decided to leave the business in 2004 and put their holdings on sale. French luxury goods firm Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) bought the firm and all associated holdings for £300m, winning a bidding war with Pernod Ricard.

In 2009, four more stills were added, along with a larger mash tun and extra washbacks.By now, Glenmorangie had moved into overdrive, with over 15 separate expressions, increasing by two or more every year.More recently, extra warehousing has been built, the result of a decision to mature and vat all the production on-site.

2021 saw the unveiling of The Lighthouse, a new distillery made just for Glenmorangie. The exquisitely designed glass building, located on the same grounds as the original distillery, is considerably smaller and holds just two of the brand’s massive stills plus a new mash tun and washbacks. Due to its size and the sensory tasting lab that sits just above it, it’s clear that the new building is meant predominantly for experimentation and innovation rather than general production, such as the use of stainless steel condensers.

THE DISTILLERS OF TAIN

For generations, Glenmorangie has been distilled by a fiercely loyal group of local men individually selected by the Distillery Manager, and entrusted with the secrets of the craft. They are known as The Men of Tain, after the distillery’s location in beautiful Tain, Ross-shire.

The core workforce at the Distillery - the so-called ‘16 Men of Tain’ - were also long-serving and provided a wealth of whisky making experience and time-honoured skills in the early years. Today there are '24 Distillers of Tain’ led by Edward Thom, a celebrated Distillery Manager. Glenmorangie has continued to support and build strong relationships with its surrounding community, attracting many generations to craft its award winning whiskies over the years.

Inspired by their dedication, English guitarist Allan Holdsworth released an album in March 2000 titled “The Sixteen Men of Tain” to honour the skillful craftsmen at the helm of Glenmorangie.

Their Brand Mascot

As might be expected, the extremely tall stills were compared to the Giraffe, and, in short order, the Giraffe became the symbol of the Highland Distillery. But the giraffe faces threats in the wild, from habitat loss to poaching. Numbers have fallen by over 30% in just 35 years, with some populations classed as critically endangered. To play their part in helping in the conservation of the Giraffe, the distillery forged a pioneering conservation partnership in 2020, with the Giraffe Conservation Foundation (GCF) and the Royal Zoological Society of Scotland (RZSS).

Glenmorangie The Nectar d’Or 46% ABV

This dram was originally a 12 year old expression with a 46% ABV, with a slow growth, air-seasoned Ozark Mountain oak barrel 10 year bourbon maturation and a two year Sauternes finish. Sauternes is a French wine from Bordeaux. It is produced by allowing green/white grapes to almost reach a rot-like state on the vine; this treatment of the grapes allows them to become almost raisined, causing the fruit to have a high concentrate of sugar. It is sweet and often referred to as honey-like. Some call it a dessert wine; the wine can be expensive and is usually found in very old vintages.

In 2019 Glenmorangie began a transition and the Nectar d’Or became a non age statement release, still at 46% ABV. As we know, this move often allows producers to release younger whiskies quicker, and can often be a stock manipulation tactic. The length of the original maturation and Sauternes finish are now a little unclear; perhaps given a little time more information will become available. But that was put to rest by the return of the 12 YO in 2022, which expression is now dying out of the market.

Colour: Splendid bright gold.

Nose: Sauternes matured or finished whiskies tend to be heavy on the citrus notes. This has that also, perhaps leaning more toward the lemon element. There is a nice, sweet vanilla custard, perhaps on a warm sugary pie crust, a little ginger and fruity. Very sweet on sherbet and pastry notes. Buttery with white fruit and gentle clove like spice.

Palate: The custard on the nose is now poured over a steamed syrup pudding, and at the same time there is a crème brulee with demerara sugar gently toasting under the grill, silky mouth feel. Cereal notes and gentle spices are more noticeable now, sitting on a soft, dry mouth feel, adding to the experience. An amalgamation of sweet notes.

Finish: The finish also shows some spice with the oak coming forward, sharing space with the light honey. This seems much spicier than the previous version; perhaps that's due to oxidising for a year or two. But it is extremely complex, elegant and easy to drink. Would make a good introductory malt. 

Glenmorangie The Nectar 46% ABV

Dr Bill Lumsden first brought a whisky of dessert-like complexity to life in Glenmorangie The Nectar D’Or. Now, he has taken its swirls of sweet scents and spice to new heights of deliciousness, in the award-winning Glenmorangie The Nectar. Aged longer, for 16 years, in an enhanced combination of bourbon and sweet white wine casks, this new whisky is even more sumptuous and complex.

For extra depth and creaminess, silky Glenmorangie aged for 14 years in bourbon casks was selected. The whisky was then finished for two more years in a new combination of sweet white wine casks.

Sauternes and Monbazillac casks from France bring sumptuous notes of pastry, brioche, meringue and baked apples. Moscatel casks from Spain offer sweet, syrupy dessert-like notes. And Tokaji casks from Hungary, add white chocolate, almond and honeycomb flavours to their creation.

Colour: Bronze gold.

Nose: Rich and heady, almost decadent, with notes of baking brioche, leesy wine, baked apricot, vanilla pudding, toasted almond and chestnuts and hints of chocolate truffles. With water, there is a burst of candy sweetness, touches of orange syrup, a flinty minerality, and a curious, distinctive herbal top note, like sage or basil.

Palate: The texture is unctuous and sticky, but with a balancing lemon zestiness. This leads into rich, sweet flavours of vanilla crème anglaise, baked apricots, warm raisin bread, roasting chestnuts, and a mixture of spices, particularly nutmeg and star anise. The oaky backbone lasts throughout the taste, but is always balanced by sweet, fruity and spicy notes.

Finish: The finish is long and lingering, with some lemon rind, baking bread and a touch of honeycomb.

ADDENDA:

GLENMORANGIE COMPANY SOLD TO MOET HENNESY LOUIS VUITTON (LVMH)

Prelude

In August 2004, 111-year old Scotch distiller Glenmorangie confirmed perplexing media rumours that the 15 controlling members of the Macdonald family, the main shareholders were looking for a buyer for their stake, which was in excess of 61%, and that the board had instructed its financial advisor to explore the market for the company.

Glenmorangie, which overtook Glenfiddich in 2002 to become the biggest-selling malt whisky in the UK with volumes in excess of 2 million cases, was thought to be worth around £300 million. Sold in over 120 countries, the brand is one of the best known in the Scotch whisky industry, as well as the number one in its home country. The group also produces/produced the Ardbeg and Glen Moray malt brands, and in smaller quantities blends like The Bailie Nicol Jarvie, James Martin’s and Highland Queen. Other creations, now discontinued, include Cecil Aldin and King’s Crest blended Scotch; Mary Queen of Scots Blended Malt Whisky, Westport Distillery expressions; Serendipity Blended Malt and the Glen Morven Catalogue, three aged single malts from Glen Moray in Speyside and one secret distillery each from Islay and the Highlands.

Westport isn’t actually a distillery, but instead a brand name under which Glenmorangie released their whisky to independent bottlers, mainly Berry Brothers and Rudd. When Glenmorangie sold casks of their whisky, they wanted to avoid direct competition. In order to achieve this they combined their whisky with that of Glen Moray so that the whisky could no longer be sold as single malt. The two world famous single malts, Glenmorangie and Glen Moray, come together beautifully. The complexity and character of Glenmorangie is complemented with the subtle delicacy of Glen Moray.

Serendipity was an accidental blended malt created by the mistaken mixing of Ardbeg and Glen Moray at Broxburn blending hall in 2005. Earlier, in 1999, a vat of Glenmorangie 21-year-old was accidently mixed with a smaller amount of another whisky. The blended malt, 80% Glenmorangie, was subsequently released as 80:20 by the company’s Douglas McNiven & Co. subsidiary and sold out immediately, retiring into the archives. As for potential buyers, it was surmised that the sheer size of the company ruled out a number of leading drinks groups such as Diageo or Pernod Ricard, whose own Scotch whisky businesses (which included malt brands such as Laphroaig and The Glenlivet, respectively) were large enough to lead to competition concerns if they were to bid for Glenmorangie.

As a result, a company without a major Scotch brand was perhaps the most likely to acquire Glenmorangie – and capture a sizeable share of a fast-growing market in the bargain. The company already had a partnership with two such companies – rum-maker Bacardi and Brown-Forman (owner of Jack Daniel’s) – having joined forces with the two larger groups in 2000 to help develop its business overseas. These two firms would certainly feature as leading potential candidates to acquire Glenmorangie, having the finances, knowledge of the company and an international distribution network to maximise the potential of the Glenmorangie name – as well as a limited presence in the Scotch whisky market.

Ultimately, whoever acquired the business would garner a major share of a malt whisky market which continues to go from strength to strength, even today. Figures from the Scotch Whisky Association show that malt whisky exports increased by 13.5% in 2003, breaking through the £300 million barrier for the first time, with malts proving particularly popular in ‘new’ whisky-drinking nations in Eastern Europe and Asia.

Enter LVMH:

Glenmorangie's final set of interim figures before takeover underlined the importance of the acquisition, with the whisky maker's premium brands all performing ahead of expectations. Total cased volumes sales for the six months to 30 September were up 30%, with the three premium malt brands Glenmorangie, Ardbeg and Glen Moray driving the increase with gains of 11%, 27% and 52% respectively. Value sales of cased whisky (as opposed to bulk sales) were some 23% ahead at £28.7 million. Christmas was certain to increase the 'giftability' of the whisky.

Exceptional costs related to the takeover of the company would reduce pre-tax profits to £4.71 million during the half, although this was still 12% higher than in the previous year, despite the continued investment in brands - underlining the cash-generating qualities of the entity. In a world of surprises, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE, the French agglomerate threw its hat into the ring. Despite market expectations, Pernod Ricard joined battle. Pernod argued that most of its business was in the premium blended market (where it owns market leader Chivas Regal) and not in single malts (where it owns The Glenlivet), and that the addition of Glenmorangie's brands would not lead to any significant competition concerns.

Ultimately, money won, with LVMH buying Pernod out at £300 million, a 6% premium to Glenmorangie's market capitalisation of £282 million.

LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE, the French multinational holding company and conglomerate specialising in luxury goods and headquartered in Paris, controls around 60 subsidiaries that manage 75 luxury brands like Louis Vuitton and Moët Hennessy, Dior, Givenchy, Fendi, Celine, Kenzo, Tiffany, Bulgari, Loewe, TAG Heuer, Marc Jacobs, Sephora, Stella McCartney, Loro Piana and Princess Yachts, among many others. It had a stronghold in Champagne and Cognac, but had yet to make an entry into the booming Scotch Whisky market. Now that an ideal opportunity had presented itself, LVMH had every intention of taking over one of the world’s leading Whisky Companies then on the market.

LVMH said it intended to run Glenmorangie as a stand-alone unit but with a new focus on building the brand's international reputation, entailing hiving off the company's minor brands despite solid growth. Only Glenmorangie and Ardbeg were retained. Moet Hennessy specific skills and experience in the marketing of luxury wines and spirits brands and strong track record ensured that Glenmorangie grew faster and more profitably within Moet Hennessy than as a stand-alone company.

Glenmorangie’s ‘Playful’ Redesign 2022

Starting July 2022, Glenmorangie created a new look for its core range to better reflect the flavours of each expression. The new packaging for Glenmorangie The Original, The Lasanta and The Quinta Ruban aimed to combine ‘elegance, luxurious materials and a sense of fun’. Using the tagline, "It's kind of delicious and wonderful!", the campaign was created in partnership with Aldridge and DDB Paris. Glenmorangie believes that their whisky is truly delicious and the reimagined packaging brings its flavours to the fore, an opportunity to welcome new drinkers with a playful elegance, which reflects creativity in whisky making; and to ensure their single malt stands out by using bold colours and enhanced branding. The new packaging is fully recyclable and comes with a guarantee that the pulp used in the carton comes from well-managed forests. While the whisky inside remains unchanged, the new labels are distinctly different with the hopes that the bottles will better stand out on the shelves, with brighter, bolder colours and large-sized text. 


The three entries in the scotch brands core range that have been affected by the change are the 10-year Original, 12-year Lasanta and 14-year Quinta Ruban. The 10-year-old Original has always been the bestseller in the range, and its new label is designed to appeal to a younger audience. The 12-year Lasanta and 14-year Quinta Ruban are both premium expressions, and their new labels reflect this with a more modernised look. The orange colour used for The Original’s design is based on the 10-year-old whisky’s notes of orange, honey and peach. The red carton for 12-year-old Lasanta was inspired by the ‘rich, spicy sweetness’ of the liquid and the hues of a sunset while the packaging for 14-year-old Quinta Ruban is green to showcase the ‘bold and velvety whisky’s forest-like depths’. The refreshed packaging includes a more ‘elegant’ bottle shape, with wider shoulders, a tapered neck and stopper, and a swirled detail inspired by Glenmorangie’s Signet icon on the base. The carton and labels have also been updated to ensure they stand out on shelves, featuring ‘vivid’ colours to reflect the flavours of each whisky. The new design includes curving lines that run through the packaging to reflect the fluidity of the liquid, the wood used to age Glenmorangie and the distillery’s surroundings.

Glenmorangie’s Fight for its Name

The Glenmorangie name comes from the Gaelic words gleann mor na sith and translates to “glen of tranquility.” Fittingly, the phrase was also used as the brand’s promotion slogan for several years. In 2003, the company was hit with a formal complaint by an anonymous individual from Midlothian claiming that it was misrepresenting the language. The unidentified subject claimed that the true meaning of Glenmorangie loosely translated to “a big valley with a meadow of water.” Not to be budged, Glenmorangie refuted the claim and stated that the translation of Glenmorangie depended on the perceived root of the word. In the end, the brand was awarded the right to claim “glen of tranquility,” though it has since moved on to newer marketing approaches.

Their Attitude towards Casks

Under Dr Lumsden, Glenmorangie has been an industry leader in researching the ways in which wood impacts whisky maturation, blazing a trail on truly exceptional cask-finished whisky, his insistence on slow growth, air-seasoned Ozark Mountain oak barrels that were first used as Bourbon-whisky casks for instance. While other distilleries might use the same casks as many as six times, Glenmorangie’s practice has evolved to use casks only twice in order to retain the fullest flavour for a whisky of exceptional depth and complexity.

The Giraffe Gift Tins

Glenmorangie has introduced a special edition packaging called the Giftable Giraffe Tins. These tins are designed to celebrate the height of Glenmorangie’s stills, the tallest in Scotland. The giraffe-themed tins are not only visually appealing but also support a good cause, with each purchase contributing to the Giraffe Conservation Foundation.

The Giftable Giraffe Tins include:

Glenmorangie Original 10 YO: This is the distillery’s flagship expression, known for its mellow and delicate flavours, matured in ex-bourbon casks.

Glenmorangie Lasanta 12 YO: A rich and full-bodied single malt, aged in sherry casks for an additional layer of sweetness and spice.

Glenmorangie Quinta Ruban 14YO: A darker, more intense whisky, finished in port casks, offering a complex mix of chocolate and fruit notes.


These tins make for a beautiful and meaningful gift, perfect for whisky enthusiasts and those who appreciate unique packaging with a purpose.

LVMH turns Glenmorangie from a Niche whisky into a Global Brand

Glenmorangie was one of the original single malt Scotch whiskies, albeit little-known in the early days. Glenfiddich and The Glenlivet ruled the small roost. The producers thought there was no market for single malts. Blended whisky was where the money had been for more than a century, and they needed the malts to give the blends their distinctive flavour profiles. Yet, Glenmorangie had just one iteration, the bottling now known as Glenmorangie “The Original” 10 Year Old, and it was one of a handful of single malts one could find in specialty shops in Edinburgh and London (Milroy’s whisky shop in Soho.)

A SAMPLE OF THE OLDER EXPRESSIONS

In the early ’90s interest in single malts took off globally, and has been growing rapidly since. But Glenmorangie was not really positioned to capitalise on its established reputation; as a partly family owned, partly publicly traded, company it didn’t have the resources to take advantage of this expanding market for single malt Scotch.

Until, that is, in 2004, when it was bought by French luxury goods giant Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy, presumably in order to add a high-class Scotch to its portfolio of wines and spirits, and everything changed. LVMH has been very clever in upgrading Glenmorangie’s image, and its presence on the world whisky stage, without in any way diminishing the product in the bottle, the whole object of the exercise. Glenmorangie has always been successful in Scotland where it’s been the best-selling malt for decades, but it’s hard labour in wider markets.

According to Dr Lumsden, what has changed is two-fold. Firstly, he suddenly had a lot more money to invest in the distillery, in buying new cask types and doing all the things he couldn’t quite do before, an investment upfront by allowing him to innovate and experiment. Then, they’ve taken the brand onto a truly global platform. The area Glenmorangie always had a problem with was global distribution, and now they have that. Glenmorangie has benefited hugely from the LVMH distribution network because before them, they just didn’t have that network around the world to get Glenmorangie into the best places. They had a network of very independent distributors, but now they have the firepower of one of the world’s leading distribution companies sitting within a fantastic portfolio.

The change most obvious to the consumer is the new bottles, introduced in 2007 and given a further fresh outlook in 2021-22. The pre-LVMH bottles were very traditional and monotonous. But now, with their distinctive, curvaceous shape, they set the brand apart, and are a far better fit for LVMH’s up-market identity. The 2007 redesign, the new and distinctive look, was intended to brighten up the Glenmorangie image so it sat more comfortably within LVMH’s portfolio of chic. The new packaging has allowed Glenmorangie to position itself as a very premium, very desirable single malt whisky. Much more expensive, of course. And they all have tall necks!

The flow of LVMH cash has also enabled Lumsden to double production capacity by installing more stills. They now have the capacity to produce 6M litres a year, and are running very near that, the shortfall being due to programmed ongoing maintenance and expansion of their new environmental project. There’s also the opportunity for cross marketing by incorporating Glenmorangie into events for other LVMH brands, though very sparingly, only when it’s considered appropriate. LVMH has elevated Glenmorangie to the fourth most popular single malt Scotch in the world, an increase of 60% since the takeover.


The Irish Tain: An Unusual Coincidence

THE RECOVERY OF THE TAIN

In days long gone, at a time that is long past, Guaire, the King of Connacht, hosted a huge gathering of poets.  The King was famed for his generosity, but this gathering was testing his goodwill; they ate and drank everything they saw.

Now even in the hardest of times, poetry is regarded as a treasure by the Irish, but these poets had abused their position. The King’s brother Marban, annoyed that the poets’ demands and appetite had included his favourite pig, resolved to discredit them.

He declared that his servant’s wife’s grandmother was a poet’s great grandchild. Even with this remote connection to the art, he showed he knew more than all the other poets.  He asked them questions they couldn’t answer and for performances they couldn’t deliver.  Finally, he challenged them, ‘tell the most famous and celebrated Irish story, The Tain bo Cuilange’. There was a long silence. Then the poets had to admit that no one knew more than a few fragments.  The story had been lost.

The chief bard, Sanchan Torpiest, resolved to recover the story, and the honour of the poets.  The story had been written down in Ogham and taken by a bard to Italy.  A band of Sanchan’s followers, and his son Muirgen, set off to seek this bard. They stopped for the night at Enloch in Connacht.  Muirgen, exhausted, asked the others to go on and find a place to stay while he rested against a large stone.  Alone, Muirgen noticed carving on the stone.  The strokes and lines of Ogham spelled out the name of Fergus Mac Roich, hero of the Tain. 

The companions returned to fetch Muirgen, they found the stone encircled in dense fog, so cold they could barely breathe. They tried to reach their friend but became confused and arrived back outside the wall of fog.

In three days the fog receded.  Then they found Muirgen, elated.  He told them Fergus Mac Roich had appeared to him, dressed in a green cloak over a red tunic with a great sword that had a pommel of bronze.  The spirit of Fergus had told Muirgen the whole story of The Tain, calling up other long forgotten players to bear witness.

The band of poets returned and a crowd gathered to hear the story.  The hall was perfectly still as Muirgen conjured up the Tain; they could hear Cuchulain’s war cry, smell the fires of battle, feel the cold steel of weapons, and they could taste the salt of Deirdre’s tears.

The story survives to this day, written down by the monks of Clonmacnoise.

Ogham stones are stones on which short marks were made in groups of between one and five notches, strokes or diagonal lines, usually on the edge of the stone. Each group signifies a sound in Old Irish, and they are the oldest surviving written form of the language which is still spoken in this area.

THE RECOVERY OF THE TAIN: AN OGHAM STONE

Ogham is an Early Medieval alphabet used primarily to write the early Irish language (in the "orthodox" inscriptions, 4th to 6th centuries AD), and later the Old Irish language (scholastic ogham, 6th to 9th centuries). There are roughly 400 surviving orthodox inscriptions on stone monuments throughout Ireland and western Britain, the bulk of which are in southern Munster. The largest number outside Ireland are in Pembrokeshire, Wales.

The vast majority of the inscriptions consist of personal names.

According to the High Medieval Bríatharogam, the letters are named after various trees. For this reason, Ogham is sometimes known as the Celtic tree alphabet.