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Saturday, 12 October 2024

DIAGEO'S 2024 AI FOLLOW UP

 Diageo Special Releases 2024

 This year's collection is a continuation of the Spirited Xchange that delves deeper into flavour exploration, experimenting with various cask combinations that challenge expectations, essentially about curiosity and what happens when you challenge yourself to think ‘what if’. This has led Diageo to explore a variety of exciting maturation techniques, from selecting a novel combination of casks for The Singleton, to taking both Ramandolo white wine and Sangiovese red wine casks to finish Mortlach and bringing a totally new dimension of flavour to its unmistakably umami identity.

The Diageo Annual Special Release is a selection of whiskies that fans of great malts eagerly await each year. Each release now consists of eight whiskies; Diageo has more than 30 distilleries, some more active than others, from which it can source these whiskies. Collectors around the world usually chase each Release with unbridled fervor, hopefully to drink and share these gems, but we all know that some will be squirrelling these bottles away for a future date…

The Special Releases 2024 collection unveiled in New York on 30 Sep 2024 continues the Spirited Xchange theme. While the first year of Spirited Xchange broke boundaries in whisky-making by blending global cultures and innovative flavours, this year's collection dares to ask, "What if?" Diageo aims to challenge expectations, offering fresh perspectives that push the limits of flavour and craftsmanship for its iconic brands, showcasing its confidence and unwavering dedication to excellence.

Every whisky in this collection serves as a stage for innovation. It’s a journey to reimagine the essence of some of the world’s most iconic brands, using experimental cask pairings and surprising flavour profiles. The expertly curated ‘Spirited Xchange: Second Edition' delves into unexplored realms of aroma and taste. The primary opening line in each case is: What if?

This collection, while a compilation of rare and unique single malts that explore new flavours and maturation techniques, includes five brands that featured last year, in different form, of course and three new names. New for 2024 are the Benrinnes 21 Year Old; an unpeated Caol Ila that is not something seen often and a Glen Ord product, a 14-YO Singleton. A new version of Roseisle 12 Year Old which appeared in 2023 for the first time, and now gets a very similar follow-up, completes the lineup.

All whiskies are youngish to middle-aged, between 8 years and 14 years old, with the Benrinnes being the only release that is quite a bit older. As always, each whisky in the collection is bottled at natural cask strength and without chill-filtration to ensure it is presented in its undiluted authentic flavour.

Prices for the 2024 collection are about in line with previous years—it opens at just $105 for a uniquely finished 8 year old Talisker, and tops off at $480 for the ultra-aged Benrinnes. Their quality justifies their price, says Diageo, trolled last year for unjustified prices. Not only did many European retailers refuse to take bulk orders, but prices at several retailers also dropped within three months of first release. Expressions of expensive releases are fairly easily available today at marked down prices:

  •         Talisker Tidal Churn: An 8-year-old Talisker matured in bourbon casks and finished in stone-spun and re-toasted American oak
  •      Oban Coastal Orchard: A 10-year-old Oban aged in refill American oak and partially finished in oloroso-seasoned American oak
  •         Roseisle Origami Kite 2: A second release from Speyside distiller Roseisle
  •         Lagavulin Fireside Tales: A Lagavulin with an ABV of 57.4%
  •         Mortlach Midnight Dusk: A Mortlach with an ABV of 57.5%
  •         Benrinnes Grand Crescendo: A 21-year-old Benrinnes
  •         Caol Ila Ambrosial Feast: An 11-year-old Caol Ila with a creamy, nutty mouthfeel and green apple flavors
  •      The Singleton of Glen Ord Autumn Walk: A Reappearing Singleton with an ABV of 54.7%

Talisker 8 YO ‘Tidal Churn’ 58.7% ABV OB RRP £89.95

Finished in stone-spun Oak casks

“What if a whisky could channel the power of ocean tides?”

This 8 YO Talisker was matured in both refill and first-fill bourbon casks. It was finished in stone-spun oak casks, wherein stone is rotated against the wood, gently eroding the existing char which is then gently washed away by flowing water, and again in re-toasted American oak. Singularly unusual casks which foster singularly unusual flavours. That initiates the answer!

Dive deep into the elemental power of the ocean with Talisker 8 Year Old - Tidal Churn, an expression that channels the raw energy of the tides allowing fruity notes of pear, apple, and vanilla to emerge with bold clarity. The finished whisky, old gold in colour with an amber hue and thick and slow beads is a testament to Talisker’s maritime heritage, where waves of seaweed, pepper, spices, pear and apple rise beneath the distillery’s signature maritime smoke creating a dynamic tasting experience that surges with oceanic intensity. An answer constituted!

Experience Talisker’s smoky, sea-salted character in all its glorious dimension—perfect for those who crave a whisky imbued with the untamed power of the sea.

Nose: TCP/iodine, plaster, kippers, wet vegetation (peat), wood smoke, grilled lemon and pineapple, almond paste, vanilla custard and pepper.

Palate: Bold and punchy, with the typical Talisker brine and peppers. It's both sweet and sour, and quite peaty (although a bit less than on the nose). TCP, tar, smoked barbecue bacon, lime juice, green pineapple, vanilla, and wood chips. Towards the finale it gets increasingly spicy and a tad bitter.

Finish: Long, spicy (pepper) and woody, with an earthy influence. Chili pepper, liquorice, wood chips, nutmeg, shellfish and salted lime.

Overall: Like almost every Talisker, this is very decent. On the other hand these slightly weird casks don’t offer a unique fingerprint. It leaves one wondering why Diageo keeps pushing out so many 8 YO Taliskers as ‘special releases’.

                     

 Oban Coastal Orchard: 10YO, 58% ABV, RRP £108.95

Finished in charred American oak barrels seasoned with Oloroso sherry.

“What if the smallest seed could give rise to a magnificent orchard?”

Discover the charm of Oban 10 Year Old - Coastal Orchard, a whisky that evokes the vibrant beauty of a sea-sprayed orchard in full bloom. Hailing from one of Scotland’s smallest distilleries, this exquisite 10 year old expression marries the rugged coastal influence with delicate orchard sweetness.

Oban’s Coastal Orchard is a vibrant expression that has been aged and harmoniously blended in American oak refill barrels and then partially finished in new freshly charred American oak barrels that have been seasoned with oloroso Sherry, creating a flavour profile of coastal air and rich orchard fruits. One doesn't see that many cask strength Oban releases on the market, and it is always a nice refreshing change to try this Highland malt with a little sherry cask influence. The quest is straightforwrd: "What if the smallest seed could give rise to a magnificent orchard?" As the answer, begin with "imagine the humblest of seeds taking root deep within a coastal bay. A magnificent sea-sprayed orchard blooms, born of a tiny shell."

Continue on that line: With every tide’s fall a harmonious burst of flora ripples with warm waves of nectar, bathing the coast in aromatic bounty. Oban Distillery is one of Scotland’s smallest distilleries but its whiskies thrive with imposing character. This 10-year-old expression is matured in refill casks, before being selectively finished in newly charred American oak barrels, freshly seasoned with oloroso sherry, imparting baked apple notes and subtle wisps of sea salted vanilla. Expect notes of charred oak, a bouquet of spiced nutmeg, sweet cinnamon and hints of clove. There you have it!

Nose: Worty malt, good bourbon casks with moderate caramel and vanilla plus soft coconut and milk lolly-geared lactones, orchard stone fruits and a bit of marzipan nuttiness.

Palate: Way more sherry driven, a bit vinous plus some mushroom/ nutty undertones. Some nice crunchy white fruits running underneath plus hints of melon and peach, soft cask spices with lactones and still a wee twinge of new-make. If your dram is from the lower half of a 2-month old opened bottle, some oak/sherry extractive flavours come up; since it is still a bit young to have had sufficient interaction, it does still play a touch young. The rancio is very appealing, especially for those that are big fans of Amontillado.

Overall: A testament to Oban Distillery’s artistry, this limited-edition release is both verdant and lush, with a fragrant, sweet-spiced character that speaks to its coastal heritage. Perfect for those seeking a whisky that blends coastal freshness with a richly layered orchard sweetness.

Roseisle Origami Kite II: 12YO, 55.6% ABV, OB, RRP £135

Matured in a combination of first-fill ex-bourbon and refill casks.

    “What if simplicity made for perfection, like the folds of a kite?”

A paper kite swirls in the Scottish sky. Simple and delicate, it rides the highland winds with wondrous endurance. Each lift is a testament to artisanship.

From the cutting-edge Roseisle Distillery, their second-ever expression boasts smoothly integrated aromas and soaring tastes that defy the complexity of its marriage of three spirit streams in distinctly different cask types. The Malt Master evokes a sublime Single Malt Scotch Whisky that soars with profound flavour, building on the folds of a previous flight, born of seemingly simple elements, matured in first-fill ex-Bourbon and refill casks for 12 years.

A paper kite swirls in the Scottish sky. Simple and delicate, it rides the highland winds with wondrous endurance. Each lift is a testament to artisanship. The second ever expression from the cutting-edge Roseisle distillery evokes a sublime Single Malt Scotch that soars with profound flavour, building on the folds of a previous flight, born of seemingly simple elements. 

Matured in first fill ex-Bourbon and refill casks, the deep amber medium-bodies spirit embedded with coppery lights provide rich flavours blossoming with smooth creamy texture. Notes of ripe fruit and white chocolate lie beneath the sweet vanilla aroma. Nuanced spice balance warm complexity, leading to an experience of pure harmony from technical artistry with very fine beading and good legs. Precise refinement to achieve exquisite balance.  ​​

Nose: Sweet vanilla, ripe fruit, and creamy white chocolate aromas. Pleasantly mild, wine-like, supported by a slightly tart fruitiness reminiscent of unripe redcurrants.

Palate: Hints of vanilla icing and vanilla ice cream, balanced at once by a spirit-spicy complexity that carries a rich fruitiness.

Finish: Quite long, finishing richly sweet and lightly spicy with a controlled peppery warmth.

Overall: With its graceful composition, Origami Kite II is a whisky that elevates the senses, offering a refined yet powerful expression born of simplicity and precision. Can be had neat or on the rocks.

Lagavulin Fireside Tales: 12YO, 57.4% ABV, OB,  RRP £ 180

Matured in classic first-fill ex-bourbon and refill casks.

“What if smoke was tamed into inviting sweetness?”

This 12 year old Lagavulin is billed as far softer, subtler, and sweeter than the Islay distillery’s usual smoky, phenolic offerings, a result of extended time spent in a combination of bourbon barrels, re-fill American oak hogsheads, and re-fill European oak butts.

Awaken a Scotch whisky that bears the tales of oak, like a warm memory that takes hold. Just as Islay folk fall quiet settling into fireside storytelling, and a burning fire turns to gentle embers, and open the gateway to the revelation of a softer dimension to the legend of Lagavulin.

The Lagavulin character becomes sweeter and gentler in this medium-bodied expression thanks to its maturation in first-fill bourbon and refill casks for a lush and glazed aroma. A classic phenolic and powerful Lagavulin, this unusual expression shows that there can also be a softer, sweeter, spicier side to the mighty king of Islay. This is Lagavulin character made sweet under the command of active oak. Bold smoke quietened to a hush, a testament to oak’s dynamic influence on bold character: powerful peat tempers into inviting sweetness. Therein lies the answer. Made for the curious at heart.​​ Expect notes of thick toffee, vanilla, and coconut, unfurling with aromatic spice.

Nose: Drying in feel, and quite gentle. Fresh, clean phenols rise to the fore at once with aromas of a smoldering bonfire on a distant beach.

Palate: Smoothly creamy and really mouth-filling in texture, very sweet to taste at first then quickly drying, with a sprinkling of salt and a controlled smokiness.

Finish: Long, finally powerfully smoky and drying, with a twist of warming spice that also lingers in the aftertaste.

Overall: It’s the perfect whisky for a good fireside tale, a classically sweet expression of power.

Mortlach Midnight Dusk: NAS, 57.5% ABV, OB,  RRP £249.95

Finished in Italian ramandolo and sangiovese wine casks.

“What if a whisky could rival the Aperitivo moment?”

Mortlach rarely gets an age statement in the Special Releases, but almost always a funky cask finishing. True to form, Mortlach is the sole non-age statement whisky among the Special Releases. This year, the dram was aged in refill and first-fill bourbon barrels, then finished in ramandolo and sangiovese wine—Italian sweet white and red, respectively—casks. Layered crisp fruit, caramelised miso and a hint of cured prosciutto notes emerge for an audaciously umami and fruity flavour, but that gives nothing away about how long it was worked upon where, leaving one with a deep, bold, and deliciously seductive Mortlach, whose wayward character with a bewitching tint in its radiance that will take one from twilight into the night.

Step into the enchanting realm of Mortlach - Midnight Dusk, a whisky that captures the decadent allure of twilight. Known as "The Beast of Dufftown," Mortlach’s bold character takes on a new dimension, rivalling the elegance of the aperitivo hour. The interplay of umami

and sweetness creates a captivating experience, layered with earthy tones from the Sangiovese casks and the honeyed warmth of Ramandolo wine, bold, seductive, and layered with intrigue. Truly complex with varying interplay of sensations.

Nose: Heady top notes make a vinous first impression, suggesting white grapes and Manzanilla sherry. Soon the aromas become fresh, floral and fruity.

Palate: Layered crisp fruit on the palate, with caramelised miso, the ultimate reference point for the umami—deeply savoury, with toasty, funky salty-sweet richness and a hint of uncooked, unsmoked, and dry-cured ham.

Finish: A wonderfully umami finish.

Benrinnes Grand Crescendo: 21 YO, 55.4% ABV, OB,  £284.35

Double matured for thirteen years in wine-seasoned American Oak, European Oak, and rejuvenated casks with charred ends.

"What if we doubled the volume on fruity flavour?"

The orchestra takes centre stage for a sensory symphony. Thunderous flavour. Extravagant richness. Booming fruitiness, with the resounding bass line of double maturation.

This full-bodied spirit is deep and full-flavoured; the mature Benrinnes is a vibrant, opulent dram that offers great waves of rich, fruity taste yet retains a splendid balance and will be enjoyable at any time.

The Benrinnes 21 Year Grand Crescendo is a reimagining of an iconic Scotch whisky brand through adventurous cask combinations. The whisky here was first matured for 8 years in refill casks and then further matured for 13 years in wine-seasoned American oak, European oak, and rejuvenated casks with charred ends.

Immerse yourself in the grandeur of Benrinnes 21 Year Old - Grand Crescendo, an opulent whisky that amplifies fruity flavours to new heights. With double maturation in both American and European oak wine casks, this expression delivers an extraordinary symphony of flavours, booming with extravagant richness and depth.

Aged for varying periods in multiple casks to rejuvenate maturation, this 21 year old whisky unveils a crescendo of overripe dark fruits, stewed pear, smashed fig, and caramelised apple. These vibrant notes reverberate on the palate, creating a sensory experience that is both thunderous and harmonious. Crafted with intentional complexity, Grand Crescendo transcends the ordinary, offering layers of bold, fruit-forward flavour that lingers long after each sip. Deep amber, with rose lights at first sight, one sees good beading and good legs, a harbinger of better things to follow.

Nose: Overripe dark fruits, stewed pear, and caramelised apple, with a touch of oak spice.

Palate: Rich and bold, featuring smashed figs, dark fruits, and layers of caramel and oak. Becomes deliciously sweet-savoury, with an unmissable lick of salt amid spicy intensity.

Finish: Very long and fruity, with warming oak spices and a crescendo of sweetness. Dryness at the very end.

Overall: A whisky made for sybarites seeking an indulgent and unforgettable experience.

Caol Ila Ambrosial Feast: 11 YO, Unpeated, 57.3% ABV, OB, RRP £105.95

Matured in refill, rejuvenated, and rejuvenated ex-wine American & European Oak casks.

“What if there was a whisky worthy of mythical ambrosia?”

A most unexpected Caol Ila (many wouldn’t guess it so), this rare unpeated expression has little of the peated make’s smoky and “fresh clean” nature yet brings the same urgency to a new and compelling taste, exploring the lighter, smoother, fruitier side of the spirit.

Ascend into creamy, nutty bliss with this 2024 Special Releases offering from Caol Ila Distillery. Unusually unpeated, 57.3% ABV Caol Ila 11YO Ambrosial Feast Single Malt Scotch Whisky can be enjoyed neat or as you prefer. A rare expression, crafted with short fermentations and cloudy worts, showcased in this year’s highly sought-after iconic Special Releases collection and presented in a limited edition collectable carton inspired by Renaissance and Rococo paintings. The aim was to produce a creamy, nutty spirit with green apple notes marketed at full cask strength. Both red and white wine casks were used to elevate it to Ambrosia, the food and drink of Greek and Roman gods and goddesses, believed to grant immortality to those who consumed it.

They succeeded in capturing a blissful interplay between rich nutty character and delicious orchard fruit. Shorter fermentation bore cloudy worts that made for an indulgent and gloriously creamy, nutty mouth feel, while carefully partly-filling the pot stills allowed higher copper contact to bring forth complementary fresh and vibrant green apple flavours and spicy accents.

Matured for 11 years in that mix of refill & rejuvenated wine casks in memory of the gods and goddesses of yore, this cask make-up brings out a perfect balance of orchard fruit freshness and spicy warmth. A whisky worthy of mythical ambrosia, Caol Ila Ambrosial Feast invites you to ascend from Islay’s rugged shores to a realm of luxurious flavour and sensory delight.

Nose: Nutty, creamy notes with fresh green apple and a hint of spice.

Palate: Smooth, creamy mouthfeel with orchard fruits, nutty undertones, and a peppery kick.

Finish: Creamy and rich, with lingering fruity freshness and subtle spice.

Overall: A whisky worthy of mythical Ambrosia.

Singleton Of Glen Ord Autumn Walk: 14 YO,54.7% ABV, OB, RRP £126.95

Matured in a mix of experimental casks with European oak and Pyrenean oak cask ends.

"What if we made a whisky bathed in the soft warmth of autumn light?"

Imagine walking through a forest on the slopes of the Pyrenees—a perfect moment of carefree joy. Autumn leaves blanket the ground, their reds and oranges surrounding you. Golden rays filter through the canopy, casting light across a gradient sky. That's the scenario that inspired this single malt whisky's creation.

This 14-year-old expression from The Singleton Glen Ord went through a compound maturation schedule. Here, three parcels of single malt were first aged in ex-bourbon, rejuvenated ex-wine casks and refill casks respectively. After 10 years, the blend was aged for four more years in a mix of experimental casks with European oak and Pyrenean oak cask ends. Ergo, an experience of vibrant orchard fruit flavours, fragrant aromatics, and grassy notes as crisp as the mountain air, balanced by a comforting sweetness that blooms with vanilla, toffee, and spice. Immerse yourself in a moment where Autumn's vivid light meets the rich warmth of this exquisite whisky.

Nose: A mellow nose in feel; mild overall. The first aromas suggest an orange cream cake filling, becoming orange sponge cake with a hint of vanilla. Beneath this lie a faintly waxy suggestion of flaked almonds and a light ‘green’ note, suggesting sugar snap peas or mange tout. fragrant aromatics and grassy notes as crisp as the air unfolds. A drop of water increases the waxy note.

Palate: A creamy texture, which is quite tooth-coating. The taste starts sweet and centre palate, becoming tart, with a strong hint of Seville orange peel, then drying gently as it shows its fierier side with some peppery spiciness. A freshness balanced with comforting sweetness that swells with vanilla, toffee and spice. A drop of water sweetens the taste and reduces the tartness yet does not alter the overall profile.

Finish: Long, warming, and spicy, with a mouth-cooling aftertaste. Still spicy with a dash of water.

Overall: An evocative blend of nature’s beauty and skilled craftsmanship, indulging in the vivid glow of autumn, where every sip mirrors the splendour of an autumnal landscape. Fruity and balanced from the least touted Singleton distillery.


ADDENDUM

Diageo Enhances Tasting Kits With AI

Johnnie Walker owner Diageo has incorporated artificial intelligence (AI) into its Single Malt Special Releases 2024 Tasting Experience in a bid to create a ‘digitally enabled multi-sensory Scotch whisky journey’.

The Special Releases 2024 Tasting Experience has been created to highlight the craftsmanship of the Spirited Xchange Second Edition collection, which launched in September. It was curated by master blender Dr Stuart Morrison.

The new technology, called ‘FlavorPrintConnect’, brings together whisky-tasting kits and an AI-enhanced digital masterclass, giving users the chance to try part of the Single Malt Special Releases 2024 range, digitally compare their tasting notes with their friends and Diageo master blenders and get served ‘rich’ video content on the whiskies and their distilleries, as well as finishing with their own whisky flavour profile.

FlavorPrintConnect is Diageo’s latest step towards transforming the way consumers experience their products. By merging physical and digital social experiences with the power of FlavorPrint, this innovation enables consumers to explore the depth and character of their single malt Scotch whiskies in ways they never could before. Their vision is for the platform to unlock breakthrough opportunities across the whole of their portfolio.

This ‘cutting-edge innovation’ is built on top of Diageo’s proprietary FlavorPrint AI platform, which identifies and matches flavour profiles – allowing participants to personalise their whisky journey based on individual preferences. The platform is said to not only elevate the tasting experience but also deepen engagement by providing recommendations that guide users’ future exploration in the wider world of spirits.

The kit contains four 200ml whisky-tasting samples from the range, accompanied by a selection of tasting implements and collectable glasses.

Inspired by trends from Diageo’s Distilled report, the firm said the product embraces consumers’ demand for ‘neo-hedonism’ – finding deeper joy in sensory indulgences and redefining the ordinary.

TREND THEMES

1. AI-driven Flavour Profiling - The integration of AI to map and match consumer flavour preferences offers a deeply personalised tasting experience.

2. Digital Masterclasses - Interactive, AI-enhanced digital masterclasses transform traditional education methods into engaging, personalised journeys.

3. Multi-sensory Tasting Experiences - Combining sensory elements with AI technology creates a rich, immersive whisky tasting experience unlike any traditional method.

Industry Implications

1. Alcoholic Beverages - The use of AI to enhance sensory experiences could redefine how whisky and other premium spirits are marketed and enjoyed.

2. E-learning - AI-enhanced interactive masterclasses offer new possibilities for personalised, engaging educational content across various fields.

3. Consumer Electronics - Developing smart sensory devices and interfaces that integrate with AI profiling technologies can revolutionise how consumers interact with products.


Reprint courtesy Diageo.

 

Thursday, 10 October 2024

SPECIAL RELEASES: DIAGEO 2023

Diageo Special Releases 2023

What are the Diageo Special Releases? For fans of malt whisky and, in particular, those who prefer their single malt bottled at a higher strength beyond the standard 40% ABV, there are some annual expressions and releases to look out for each year.  The Diageo Special Releases is one such range and, for most markets around the globe, its annual arrival and launch is a much-heralded and anticipated event.

Collectability seems to be at the heart of the evolution of the modern-day Diageo Special Releases. To be fair, the Special Releases were always sought-after by collectors – mostly because of the standout whiskies that were included and not because of their custom labels. It wasn’t until recently that collectors were targeted much more openly, starting with the first ‘Rare by Nature’ series in 2019.

Hitherto, the Diageo Special Releases were simply a range of whiskies launched at the same time, not linked through an overarching theme. The whiskies were often inherently special because of the content inside the bottle, not because of packaging or elaborate marketing stories. The reputation of the Diageo Special Releases is built on the quality and rarity of many of its earlier whiskies. And this rarity is completely missing from the current iteration of the Special Releases.

Artists were commissioned to create artwork for each of the Diageo Special Releases 2023, the labels aspiring to be “visual tasting notes, placing the expression at the centre of the experience and exploring the flavours that emerge from the local spirit casks.” For example, the Mortlach was finished in ex-Kanosuke casks, so the artwork was made by Japanese illustrator Kouzou Sakia.

All the truly exclusive and rare whiskies from Diageo have moved to the Prima & Ultima range. As a result, the Special Releases are now a stripped down version of their former selves. It’s not surprising that last year’s Special Releases are still easily available. And those from two and three year ago are too. It’s becoming more rare for Special Releases to quickly sell out.

Some leading whisky shops in Europe won’t be stocking the Diageo Special Releases 2023 at all. Certain others have bought less. That’s their response to the rise in prices. For example, the recommended retail price for the new Lagavulin 12 Years Cask Strength is closing in on 200 euros. And the new Clynelish 10 Years is priced even higher. How sustainable can this current course be? It feels like something may need to change for the Special Releases to have a long-term future.

So why did Diageo create the Prima & Ultima series to begin with. Why take that aura of exclusivity and rarity away from the Special Releases? What is bruited about is that they wanted to make the Special Releases more accessible and (relatively) affordable for new drinkers. But that has never been what the Special Releases were about.

Of course, it is understandable Diageo is not letting go of the Special Releases. They’ve created and curated a valuable brand that is worth protecting. But wouldn’t it have made more sense to keep the integrity of the Special Releases intact, and to launch a new, affordable range just below it? Because in all honesty, the term Special Releases may not truly befit the occasion anymore. For comparison sake, I've added a video of one of last year's whiskies and its sibling this year.

The theme for 2023 was ‘Spirited Xchange’, featuring Single malt whiskies from 8 distilleries, some well-known, others a little more obscure. They’ve become a marketing exercise focussing beyond the liquid, luring (new) drinkers in with elaborate tales of “cultural exchange of flavours, craft and artistry.”

The Diageo Special Releases 2023 range followed the pattern and theme of all previous years:  It showcased some favoured Diageo distilleries, as well as some of the ones that see less of the limelight.  Indeed, the Diageo Special Releases 2023 selection featured the first ever official bottling release of Roseisle, together with the less seen Glendullan, under its Singleton persona. 

Looking critically at the Diageo Special Releases 2023, there are two whiskies that warranted calling a Special Release. Firstly, the Glenkinchie is of sufficient age AND the oldest-ever released by Diageo. Secondly, it’s great that they’ve included the inaugural release from Roseisle. But the other six whiskies? There are got two whiskies without an age statement, which always makes it hard to properly evaluate their specialness. And the other four have matured 10 to 14 years – not very noteworthy indeed.

So let's get down to the whiskies:

Roseisle The Origami Kite: 12 YO, 56.5% ABV, OB, RRP €144.99

Matured in a mix of 1st-fill and Refill ex-bourbon casks.

Roseisle is groundbreaking in its production processes, energy efficiency and sustainability credentials, capturing of CO2 for commercial applications, and in its ability to create different styles of malt under the one roof. For example, the stills are connected to dual condensers – one copper, one stainless steel. Thus, by selecting which condenser to send the spirit vapours through, the distillery can control the character of the spirit produced. Roseisle wasn’t first envisaged to ever be bottled as a single malt – but then the whisky game is forever evolving and re-shaping. This is the first commercial, official expression of Roseisle and whilst it will likely be viewed as a curiosity to many, it is certainly a bottling that can stand up on its own two feet.

Nose: There’s a nice mixture between wood-influenced vanilla elements and fruity citrus notes. Pastel de nata with pomelo and yuzu, along with hints of chaff, meringues and crème caramel. A sliver of almond oil too, and maybe even some candle wax.

Taste: Buttery mouthfeel. Notes of peanut skins, charred oak and a slight spicy bitterness kind of overshadow some of the more fruity, Speyside-y elements. But they’re there. Just somewhat hidden. Think honeycomb, some chocolate, and stewed apples.

Finish: Medium. Nicely integrated sweetness.

Overall: A mite extra nutty and spicy. An agreeable introduction to this unknown distillery.

Glenkinchie The Floral Treasure: 27 YO, 58.3% ABV, OB, RRP €409.99

Matured in a combination of refill ex-bourbon barrels and European oak butts.

That this particular expression is the result of a more conventional cask maturation regimen and is thus in more familiar territory notwithstanding, the whisky has been beautifully matured and has melded perfectly with the oak.  27 years is an old whisky in anyone’s language but, despite the many years in wood, the spirit is still in harmony with the oak and there’s no sense of dryness, tiredness, or over-maturation.  The spirit is still fresh and vibrant, but has been beautifully shaped and mellowed by the cask influence. 

Nose: Very elegant, supremely delicate. The floral notes weave in and out. It is somewhat leafy also, but there are touches of melted butter, some warm apple compôte, and a hint of orange zest too. Maybe not the most complex, but neatly integrated and sophisticated.

Taste: The creamy texture is enjoyable. It certainly doesn’t give away its age. Not as delicate as you might expect. The European oak provides some wood spices, there’s plenty of fudge, a whisper of ginger, some crème brûlée and a tinge of orange marmelade.

Finish: Medium length. Lingering oak tannins, some char, then settling into sweeter notes like honey. Even a touch of aniseed.

Overall: Elegant, sophisticated, covering up a fleeting sense of youthfulness. Lives up to expectations. Best of all, there’s still a wonderful complexity to the spirit that belies its old age.  An outstanding dram.

Lagavulin The Ink of Legends: 12 YO, 56.4% ABV, RRP €194.99

Finished in Don Julio Anejo Tequila casks.

Fans of Lagavulin won’t be disappointed with this.  While the old flagship expression at 16 years continues to be the benchmark and reference point for many Lagavulin fans, there have been ample 12 year old expressions of Lagavulin across many campaigns over the last decade to suggest that 12 years is a pretty good sweet spot for this much-loved distillery.  The tequila cask influence is subtle, but – whether psychosomatic or real – you could close your eyes and easily convince yourself you’re drinking a quality, smoky mezcal here. It is extremely light in colour too.

Nose: A sort of creamy saline solution with hints of charred citrus. Briny oysters too. Also a whiff of driftwood, honeycomb, bonfire smoke, and oregano, as well as a touch of barbecued beef.

Taste: A fatty mouthfeel. Thumbs up, always. Then an initial sweetness as well as pickled lemons, followed by cracked black peppercorns, earthy peat smoke, a few pinches of salt and orange pith.

Finish: Medium to long. Lingering spices, quite dry and fairly sweet.

Overall: Lagavulin’s Cask Strength whiskies are revered and this year’s edition is once again very good, although, in the context of previous releases, much sweeter.

                         

Talisker The Wild Explorer: NAS, 59.7% ABV, RRP €144.99

Finished in a combination of White, Tawny and Ruby Port Casks.

Bottled at its natural cask strength, Talisker The Wild Explorer is a surge of warmth courses through your senses, emanating a sweet, charred essence. The powerful crash of sea-salt spray against the ship's bow rekindles the adventurous spirit within resolute sailors. Like the iconic Portuguese caravel, braving the unforgiving sea to reach the farthest corners of the earth, the Malt Master pays tribute to the Portuguese origins of these intrepid vessels by maturing this exceptional maritime whisky in a unique blend of Ruby, White, and Tawny port casks.

Compared to previous Diageo Special Releases expressions of Talisker, this is a milder expression, certainly in terms of the peat.  There is less of the iodine and dry peatsmoke seen in other recent expressions, but the signature seaweedy, maritime note was still very much on display.  The port cask influence is evident with some dry spices, together with an alluring sweetness that complemented the malt.

Nose: Opening up on hints of smoked paprika powder, cured meats and a gentle coastal breeze, as well as some seaweed, dried red fruits (dates, raisins) and chalk. The gentle wood smoke is accompanied by a touch of iodine.

Taste: Pretty classic Talisker. A distinct pepperiness accompanied by wood smoke and a sweetness that presumably comes from some of the ex-Port casks. Not too much wood influence though. Some damp oak too, as well as a good pinch of salt and dried fruits.

Finish: Medium to long. The pepperiness lingers. The salty smoke too.

Overall: A cross between the Talisker Port Ruighe and the Talisker 57° North. Good whisky that doesn’t lean on the ex-Port casks, but doesn’t shy away from it either.

                          

Oban The Soul of Calypso: 11 YO, 58% ABV, OB, RRP €173.99

Finished in Caribbean pot still Rum Casks.

Bottled at natural cask strength, there is a vivid energy and a vibrant mix of Caribbean cultures collision in a roar of jubilation, amidst a euphoric atmosphere. Bright colours burst forth to the parading beat of steel drums. Celebrating the passionate soul of the Caribbean, spinning Soca dancers lift their faces to the tropical sun, exuberant and radiant in the exotic sea air. Inspired by the merging of rhythms in the beating heart of calypso, the Malt Master finished this lively Oban expression in Caribbean Pot Still rum casks. The vibrant combination evokes unexpected tropical notes which build on Oban’s own clever fusion of the Highland and Island styles.

Much of Oban’s marketing makes mention of its coastal location, which is amusing when you consider very little of the spirit actually matures there.  Nonetheless, there is a maritime character to many Oban bottlings, and this is no different.  The rum cask influence lends a butteriness to the palate, together with hints of sugar cane, mango, bananas, mint and citrus.

Nose: Opening up on gentle hints of bananas and an overall estery fruitiness with a hint of grasses and herbs. Slightly funky, one might say. Also a whiff of orange zest, charred lemon peel and tinned apricots. Then poached pears too.

Taste: Quite an aggressive, almost hot arrival. A good pinch of salt accompanied by spices, charred oak and a distinct nuttiness; sugar cane, mango and bananas come through. Water calms things down somewhat, adds a minty touch and elevates the cereal notes too.

Finish: Short to medium. Lingering spices, eucalyptus, almond paste and a delicate sweetness.

Mortlach The Katana’s Edge: NAS, 58% ABV, OB, RRP €304.99

Finished in a combination of ex-Kanosuke Japanese whisky and ex-Pinot Noir casks.

Mortlach has traditionally been a more robust and meatier malt, courtesy of its use of wormtubs and the complex distillation process employed with its partial triple distillation.  This Mortlach is no different.  Whilst the decision to bottle without an age statement may tempt some to believe the whisky is young, there’s certainly no hint of youth on the nose or palate.  The master blender has used a traditional bourbon barrel and finished the new make in Japanese Kanosuke whisky and ex-Pinot Noir barrels. This combination ensures a surprising whisky that is hinted at with a samurai warrior on the label. The whisky is well crafted, and very drinkable.

Nose: Baked pastries, a hint of tree bark and some licorice, but mainly darker fruits. Buckwheat honey, blackcurrants. Plums. Raspberry. Slightly muted though. Also a whisper of chocolate, white pepper, leather, brown toast and pencil shavings.

Taste: A rather thick mouthfeel. The cloying nature of the Pinot Noir is present, as are the dark fruits. Then aniseed, more plums, raspberries, strawberries, plums, a touch of cloves and charred wood.

Finish: Medium length. A touch of menthol, fruit candy, cinnamon and chocolate.

Overall: The Mortlach The Katana’s Edge is a bit atypical, although some of the distillery’s more meaty characteristics are recognisable. Well balanced and eminently drinkable.

Clynelish The Jazz Crescendo: 10 YO, 57.5% ABV, OB, RRP €204.99

Matured exclusively in ex-bourbon American Oak cask.

Whilst its stablemate and predecessor, Brora, has demonstrated it can mature to grand old ages and prosper, Clynelish hits its sweet spot at 10-14 years, as seen with this bottling as a classic example. Clynelish’s malt has always been flavoursome and complex in its own right, and it is perhaps no coincidence that it’s the only malt in the Diageo Special Releases 2023 range to come from a single cask type.  The first-fill ex-bourbon casks have done the work beautifully; these barrels allow notes of caramel and vanilla spices to be revealed, while retaining the excellent character of the distillery. No further adornment is necessary. Yes, it starts off young-give it a few minutes and it becomes exactly what you would expect from a Clynelish.

Nose: Allow the swirled alcohol to settle to get mellow aromas on the nose that begin a mineral and maritime theme, then become sweeter and rounder, their golden melody anchored by an earthy bass note. Waxy exactly like you want your Clynelish to be. Fruity with touches of white grapes, unripe bananas and zesty lemons, as well as vanilla-flavoured sweets, a hint of wet pebbles and that gentle sea breeze.

Taste: Somewhat waxy, but not extremely so. The fruits take centre stage here, almost to a tropical degree. But there’s a honey-esque sweetness to underpin everything, along with some peppery spice, walnuts and a pinch of salt.

Finish: Medium. Sweet and waxy with some coconut shavings.

Overall: An excellent 10 YO but devilishly expensive.

The Singleton of Glendullan The Silken Gown: 14 YO, 55% ABV, OB RRP €154.99

Finished in Chardonnay de Bourgogne French Oak casks.

For many years an anonymous, workhorse distillery for Diageo, Glendullan finally appeared in the limelight when it was included in the re-vamped Singleton range.  The name “Singleton” was originally meant for Auchroisk back in the 1990’s. “The Singleton of Auchroisk” was marketed into the early 2000’s before being retired.  The Singleton name was then reincarnated a few years later as a collective brand name for the Glen Ord, Dufftown, and Glendullan distilleries.   This particular expression is a little dry on the palate, without losing anything of its elegance and exclusivity.

Nose: Wave away the first whiff and it opens up on pastry, grass, vanilla and sugared cereals, and also gentle stone fruits, green apples and some pear skin. It certainly seems buttery and creamy, two key characteristics of Chardonnay wine. Other notes include some grass, apples, honey, and apricots.

Taste: The palate follows a similar pathway, albeit with an added spiciness. Think white pepper. Dense, a good mouthfeel. Fairly creamy. Layers of sweetness. Butterscotch. Cotton candy. But also some walnuts, gentle orchard fruits and a tinge of grapefruit.

Finish: Medium length and somewhat drying. A whisper of salted butter, toffee and apple peel.