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Monday, 7 October 2024

GODAWAN DOUBLE AT SIP WHISKY AWARDS

 The Best Indian Single Malt Whisky:
The 2024 SIP Awards

The Indian single malt whisky category has seen great expansion in recent years, with prominent brands expanding their ranges beyond Indian-made foreign liquor, IMFL. As with all globally accepted single malt whisky today, Indian single malt must be matured for a minimum of three years in oak casks, be the product of a single distillery, distilled from nothing other than water, yeast and malted barley. There is, however, no embargo on the type of casks used thereafter for finishing or on the use of botanicals to impart specific flavours.

Earlier this year, the SIP Awards announced the results of the 2024 competition. Held in California, the SIP Awards relies on consumer judges rather than industry experts, allowing drinkers to asses spirits from across the globe from an unbiased position. Amongst the many entries were Indian single malt whiskies.

The SIP Awards 2024

The SIP Awards are held annually in California, USA. In a unique approach to spirit competitions, the SIP Awards is the only such international spirits competition that invites consumers to be judges. On their website, the SIP Awards says: “The SIP Awards were created with a simple question in mind, “What about the consumer’s opinion?” The goal was to fill this void, bringing the people who regularly consume your product together to decide which brands deserve this prestigious award.” Founded in 2009 by Paul Hashemi, the SIP Awards strives to stir up momentum for award-winning brands, helping them bring their products to a wider audience, and put the power in the hands of whisky consumers.

Each spirit that is entered into the SIP Awards is sampled double-blind and in a controlled environment to ensure fairness for all competitors.

Godawan Single Malt Rich And Rounded Artisan Whisky

Medal: Platinum

Tasting Notes: Raisin, sultana, fig, apricot, mature wood, caramel, “butteriness like baklava”

Godawan Indian Whisky, owned by Diageo India, is making waves in the Indian whisky world. Launched in the US earlier this year, Godawan is expanding the Indian single malt category with two rich and complex single malts. Distilled and matured in the deserts of Rajasthan, the whisky matures quickly in the dry heat. As such, Godawan has a very distinctive profile.

The Platinum medal-winning expression from the distillery is Godawan – 01 “Rich and Rounded”. Distilled from locally-grown six-row malted barley, the Indian single malt is then initially matured in Pedro Ximénez sherry casks. Then, it is filled into second-fill ex-bourbon barrels (already used to mature Godawan whisky) that have been treated with two Indian botanicals: Rasna and Jatamansi. The resulting whisky is something completely unique to Godawan and to the Indian single malt whisky category.

Paul John Nirvana Indian Single Malt Whisky

Medal: Double Gold

Tasting Notes: Fruit cake, honey, caramel, apricot, raisins, apple

Paul John made its name in India by making Indian-made foreign liquor (IMFL) distilled from molasses, like 98% of Indian whisky still is today. However, this Double Gold Medal-winning expression is an Indian single malt whisky.

No-age statement and bottled at 40% ABV, Paul John Nirvana was distilled from Indian barley and matured in charred American oak casks. Like Godawan whisky, Paul John is matured in a much hotter climate than even in the US – the distillery is located in the beautiful Indian state of Goa. This means a higher angel’s share, a quicker maturation, and a rich profile. Paul John is also widely known for its peated expressions such as Bold or Edited. However, Nirvana is made with unpeated barley, resulting in a sweet and sippable flavour.

Godawan – 02 Single Malt Fruit And Spice Artisan Whisky

Medal: Double Gold

Tasting Notes: Vanilla, sweet ginger, coconut, clove

Godawan was awarded another medal at the 2024 SIP Awards. This time, a Double Gold medal went to Godawan – 02 “Fruit And Spice”.

Distilled from the same mash bill as Godawan 01, “Fruit & Spice” was matured in cherry wood casks. Vikram Damodaran, Chief Innovation Officer for Diageo India explains the decision to use cherry wood casks for the second edition of Godawan Indian whisky: “Cherry wood casks release abundant vanilla and clove aromas into the liquid. This results in flavors of vanilla, sweet ginger, and coconut at the forefront.”

Godawan 02 is also finished in the botanical-treated casks. This is a very unusual practice by international standards and is associated more with the making of gin. However, the sheer number of awards won by Godawan demonstrates that this unique approach caters to many different palates.

Secret Island Indian Single Malt Whisky

Medal: Gold

Tasting Notes: Tropical fruit notes and subtly spicy flavour

Secret Island Indian Single Malt Whisky, is, like Paul John, produced in Goa. Producer Cheers Group began as a small IMFL producer. Like many other Indian whisky brands, it has recently branched out into Indian single malt whisky.

Inspired by Scottish maturation methods, Secret Island whisky is matured in cool, dark warehouses with earthen floors, much like the traditional Scottish dunnage warehouses. The whisky is matured in oak casks sourced from Scotland and other countries around the world.

Presented in a uniquely shaped decanter, the bottle is a talking piece just as much as the whisky is.

The Kadamba Indian Single Malt Whisky

Medal: Gold

Tasting Notes: Peat, sherry trifle, oaky vanilla, fruit, spice

Last, we have another expression matured in sunny Goa. The Kadamba Indian Single Malt Whisky is the flagship expression of the brand. It is double-distilled and matured in a combination of ex-bourbon, ex-sherry, and virgin American oak casks.

The Kadamba is also owned and produced by The Cheers Group. And, sticking to a unique marketing strategy, the whisky is also presented in a striking 3D cut glass effect decanter.

Produced in extremely limited quantities, it seems as though this whisky is currently only available in Goa. But do keep an eye on retail sites to find yourself a bottle.

Tuesday, 24 September 2024

GLENMORANGIE NECTAR SENSATION

GLENMORANGIE NECTAR 16 YO SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY 

History Of Glenmorangie Distillery

Glenmorangie has a fascinating backstory, with ties to Celtic lore, ancient kingdoms, and local community. The Glenmorangie logo was inspired by the mysterious and ancient Cadboll Stone. In the eighth century, a kingdom of tribes known as the Picts ruled Scotland’s north-east, including the peninsula that would become home to Glenmorangie. The Romans gave the Picts their name, inspired by their custom of painting scenes from the landscape around them onto their bodies.

One of the best surviving testaments to the Picts is the Hilton of Cadboll stone, into which they carved their story. Discovered centuries later, it has since been restored and now resides in the National Museum of Scotland. The swirls of the Glenmorangie logo are inspired by the intricate carvings of the Stone, in tribute to the Picts who first cultivated the golden barley fields that Glenmorangie harvests today to create their distinctive single malt whiskies.

The portion of the Cadboll Stone from which the Glenmorangie logo comes

Situated next to the Dornoch Firth in a series of handsome red sandstone buildings, the Glenmorangie distillery started life as the local brewery for the town of Tain in 1730, having produced other alcohol since 1703, in all probability, illegal hooch. It belonged to the reputable Matheson family, who would have eschewed illegal stuff in favour of beer, explaining the choice of a brewery drawing its water from the small stream known as Morangie Burn. While the earliest evidence of beer brewing in Scotland dates to the Neolithic period, brewing in this period was a relatively small scale, local operation, simply a part of community activity.

Distillation was legalised in 1823 and the eldest Matheson scion, William, went to Elgin in Moray, Speyside to observe and study distillation. In 1843, twenty years after learning the intricacies of distilling, William Matheson bought a tract of land adjacent to Tarlogie Springs and built a distillery there, a stone's throw away from the brewery, with a licence to distill. He must have also obtained a licence to sell, though no specific mention is made thereof. The brewery was closed down in stages. Starting with a single pot still, it took six more years for the first new make to trickle out of Glenmorangie. The second pot still was installed and made operational anon and the distillery remained in the family until 1887.

Matheson set himself apart to put history in motion by creating a single malt at a time when others were focussed on blends. The complex whisky he created was inspired by the distillery’s peaceful surroundings on the banks of the Dornoch Firth. But buyers of whisky would select their brands from their preferred grocer, rather than from a producer. The grocer held the purse-strings and could and did blend Matheson’s malt whisky. His single malt floundered. Sales weren’t too brisk so the distillery was sold to the Maitland brothers and Duncan Cameron. The common Morangie component of all these names comes from the Morangie Burn mentioned supra, though it draws its water from a mineral- water source, the Tarlogie Springs, making this one of a small number of hard water sites in Scotland.

The new owners saw immediately that the design of the stills, which were short and squat, left a lot to be desired, attributing the low sales volume to inferior quality product. They brought the Taylor family from the adjoining village into their fold. Taylor owned a gin mill a couple of miles away from and the trio decided to bring the tops of their gin stills up to Tain and add them to the short still necks, while the bodies were sold off. Such was the origin of the tallest neck stills in Scotland.

Reputed welders did a good job of amalgamating the necks. The slight bulges that protruded at the joint were also visible from inside the necks and were retained. In fact, all newer stills made thereafter, till today, retain all bulges/dents and inner scorch/joint marks and slight reduction (less than half of one inch) in diameter. But then they ran into an unexpected problem-the roof was too low to accommodate the new stills. Holes were punched in the roof allowing the necks to stick out into the open, but this was detrimental according to professional consultants, who strongly advised proper protection against the vagaries of weather. Accordingly, the roof was rebuilt at a greater height and a suitable condensation chamber created. The distillery did not remain cost-effective and was soon to go to market.

The business was sold to a partnership between two blending and broking firms, Macdonald & Muir and Durham & Co, soon passing entirely to the former, which used the whiskies for single malts, blended malts and blended Scotch. These products were very successful and the owners found they couldn’t ramp up output due shortage of maltings. The company’s principal brand of blended whisky was named Highland Queen, marking the historic association between the port of Leith where Macdonald & Muir was based, and Mary Queen of Scots, who landed there from France in 1561. In 1896, the Muir family had built a Brewery at Elgin’s boundaries (where the burgh’s gallows once stood), taking its water and power from the fast-flowing River Lossie alongside on the westernmost slopes of the Speyside hills leading to the river. Ownership went to the younger Muir son, while the elder was busy with his own venture with his brewery converted to distillery Glenmorangie in the Highlands.

Following his successful brother, Muir Jr converted it to a distillery in 1898. This distillery was not as carefully crafted as its Highlands mate, flooding regularly on marshy land, but was also named Glenmorangie, a family trend. In the slow-motion era of those days, nobody realised this replication, till annual tax assessment fell due and the duplication was discovered. Muir Jr was told to change the name of his distillery. Glen Moran was not accepted as a viable alternative, leading to its final name, Glen Moray. In 1902, Glen Moray slowed down distilling operations, shutting it down by 1910. A large number of small dwellings came up between the adjoining RAF airfield and the distillery.

Glenmorangie found a solution to its low-volume problem in 1898 with the operationalisation of the new brewery turned distillery at Elgin's boundaries, probably a major factor in the initial selection of its name. Muir Jr was told to continue to produce maltings and provide them to Muir Sr. After a year-long preparation, a supply chain was established and Glen Moray became a maltings supplier to Glenmorangie. On Muir Jr's demise, the distillery was acquired by Glenmorangie, again a family decision.

Although it was bottled in small quantities from the 1920s, a change of strategy in 1959 saw Glenmorangie burgeon as a single malt that soon became Scotland’s biggest seller. Apparently the tall stills, with its kinks intact and found to be the tallest in Scotland, made a considerable difference to the subtlety, softness and enduring characteristics of the distillate. Cask quality was to prove the second factor in its popularity.


This was not the first time that this had happened, however. Records show that at the end of the 19th century Glenmorangie single malt whisky bottled at nearly 63% ABV was being sold at The Savoy and other top-end London hotels, as well as being exported. Once fully organised, Glenmorangie produced only the one single malt whisky, The Original, selling it at 10 years of age. All other brands in the earlier days, i.e., since 1890, were either precursors to or offshoots of The Original.

Early success in the single malt category resulted in two more exact replica stills being added to the original pair in 1976, a number which was doubled again in 1990. Dr Bill Lumsden joined the distillery in 1995 and brought with him unique ideas, which were to prove best-selling. He got the owners to order and purchase specific slow growth, air-seasoned Ozark Mountain oak barrels that were first used as Bourbon-whisky casks. The single malts from these barrels were extracted and transferred for two more years into ex-Oloroso Sherry casks to emerge as the Lasanta 12 YO; into Quinta Ruban Port casks to emerge as the Quinta Ruban 12 YO and into French Sauternes wine casks to emerge as the Nectar d'Or 12 YO.

In 1996 the firm changed its name to Glenmorangie. The very next year, they acquired the run-down distillery of Ardbeg on Islay from Allied Distillers for £7 million, giving them a second family of single malt whiskies with a profile radically different to that of Glenmorangie, virtually the two opposing ends of a rainbow. Surprisingly, the owners decided to leave the business in 2004 and put their holdings on sale. French luxury goods firm Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) bought the firm and all associated holdings for £300m, winning a bidding war with Pernod Ricard.

In 2009, four more stills were added, along with a larger mash tun and extra washbacks.By now, Glenmorangie had moved into overdrive, with over 15 separate expressions, increasing by two or more every year.More recently, extra warehousing has been built, the result of a decision to mature and vat all the production on-site.

2021 saw the unveiling of The Lighthouse, a new distillery made just for Glenmorangie. The exquisitely designed glass building, located on the same grounds as the original distillery, is considerably smaller and holds just two of the brand’s massive stills plus a new mash tun and washbacks. Due to its size and the sensory tasting lab that sits just above it, it’s clear that the new building is meant predominantly for experimentation and innovation rather than general production, such as the use of stainless steel condensers.

THE DISTILLERS OF TAIN

For generations, Glenmorangie has been distilled by a fiercely loyal group of local men individually selected by the Distillery Manager, and entrusted with the secrets of the craft. They are known as The Men of Tain, after the distillery’s location in beautiful Tain, Ross-shire.

The core workforce at the Distillery - the so-called ‘16 Men of Tain’ - were also long-serving and provided a wealth of whisky making experience and time-honoured skills in the early years. Today there are '24 Distillers of Tain’ led by Edward Thom, a celebrated Distillery Manager. Glenmorangie has continued to support and build strong relationships with its surrounding community, attracting many generations to craft its award winning whiskies over the years.

Inspired by their dedication, English guitarist Allan Holdsworth released an album in March 2000 titled “The Sixteen Men of Tain” to honour the skillful craftsmen at the helm of Glenmorangie.

Their Brand Mascot

As might be expected, the extremely tall stills were compared to the Giraffe, and, in short order, the Giraffe became the symbol of the Highland Distillery. But the giraffe faces threats in the wild, from habitat loss to poaching. Numbers have fallen by over 30% in just 35 years, with some populations classed as critically endangered. To play their part in helping in the conservation of the Giraffe, the distillery forged a pioneering conservation partnership in 2020, with the Giraffe Conservation Foundation (GCF) and the Royal Zoological Society of Scotland (RZSS).

Glenmorangie The Nectar d’Or 46% ABV

This dram was originally a 12 year old expression with a 46% ABV, with a slow growth, air-seasoned Ozark Mountain oak barrel 10 year bourbon maturation and a two year Sauternes finish. Sauternes is a French wine from Bordeaux. It is produced by allowing green/white grapes to almost reach a rot-like state on the vine; this treatment of the grapes allows them to become almost raisined, causing the fruit to have a high concentrate of sugar. It is sweet and often referred to as honey-like. Some call it a dessert wine; the wine can be expensive and is usually found in very old vintages.

In 2019 Glenmorangie began a transition and the Nectar d’Or became a non age statement release, still at 46% ABV. As we know, this move often allows producers to release younger whiskies quicker, and can often be a stock manipulation tactic. The length of the original maturation and Sauternes finish are now a little unclear; perhaps given a little time more information will become available. But that was put to rest by the return of the 12 YO in 2022, which expression is now dying out of the market.

Colour: Splendid bright gold.

Nose: Sauternes matured or finished whiskies tend to be heavy on the citrus notes. This has that also, perhaps leaning more toward the lemon element. There is a nice, sweet vanilla custard, perhaps on a warm sugary pie crust, a little ginger and fruity. Very sweet on sherbet and pastry notes. Buttery with white fruit and gentle clove like spice.

Palate: The custard on the nose is now poured over a steamed syrup pudding, and at the same time there is a crème brulee with demerara sugar gently toasting under the grill, silky mouth feel. Cereal notes and gentle spices are more noticeable now, sitting on a soft, dry mouth feel, adding to the experience. An amalgamation of sweet notes.

Finish: The finish also shows some spice with the oak coming forward, sharing space with the light honey. This seems much spicier than the previous version; perhaps that's due to oxidising for a year or two. But it is extremely complex, elegant and easy to drink. Would make a good introductory malt. 

Glenmorangie The Nectar 46% ABV

Dr Bill Lumsden first brought a whisky of dessert-like complexity to life in Glenmorangie The Nectar D’Or. Now, he has taken its swirls of sweet scents and spice to new heights of deliciousness, in the award-winning Glenmorangie The Nectar. Aged longer, for 16 years, in an enhanced combination of bourbon and sweet white wine casks, this new whisky is even more sumptuous and complex.

For extra depth and creaminess, silky Glenmorangie aged for 14 years in bourbon casks was selected. The whisky was then finished for two more years in a new combination of sweet white wine casks.

Sauternes and Monbazillac casks from France bring sumptuous notes of pastry, brioche, meringue and baked apples. Moscatel casks from Spain offer sweet, syrupy dessert-like notes. And Tokaji casks from Hungary, add white chocolate, almond and honeycomb flavours to their creation.

Colour: Bronze gold.

Nose: Rich and heady, almost decadent, with notes of baking brioche, leesy wine, baked apricot, vanilla pudding, toasted almond and chestnuts and hints of chocolate truffles. With water, there is a burst of candy sweetness, touches of orange syrup, a flinty minerality, and a curious, distinctive herbal top note, like sage or basil.

Palate: The texture is unctuous and sticky, but with a balancing lemon zestiness. This leads into rich, sweet flavours of vanilla crème anglaise, baked apricots, warm raisin bread, roasting chestnuts, and a mixture of spices, particularly nutmeg and star anise. The oaky backbone lasts throughout the taste, but is always balanced by sweet, fruity and spicy notes.

Finish: The finish is long and lingering, with some lemon rind, baking bread and a touch of honeycomb.

ADDENDA:

GLENMORANGIE COMPANY SOLD TO MOET HENNESY LOUIS VUITTON (LVMH)

Prelude

In August 2004, 111-year old Scotch distiller Glenmorangie confirmed perplexing media rumours that the 15 controlling members of the Macdonald family, the main shareholders were looking for a buyer for their stake, which was in excess of 61%, and that the board had instructed its financial advisor to explore the market for the company.

Glenmorangie, which overtook Glenfiddich in 2002 to become the biggest-selling malt whisky in the UK with volumes in excess of 2 million cases, was thought to be worth around £300 million. Sold in over 120 countries, the brand is one of the best known in the Scotch whisky industry, as well as the number one in its home country. The group also produces/produced the Ardbeg and Glen Moray malt brands, and in smaller quantities blends like The Bailie Nicol Jarvie, James Martin’s and Highland Queen. Other creations, now discontinued, include Cecil Aldin and King’s Crest blended Scotch; Mary Queen of Scots Blended Malt Whisky, Westport Distillery expressions; Serendipity Blended Malt and the Glen Morven Catalogue, three aged single malts from Glen Moray in Speyside and one secret distillery each from Islay and the Highlands.

Westport isn’t actually a distillery, but instead a brand name under which Glenmorangie released their whisky to independent bottlers, mainly Berry Brothers and Rudd. When Glenmorangie sold casks of their whisky, they wanted to avoid direct competition. In order to achieve this they combined their whisky with that of Glen Moray so that the whisky could no longer be sold as single malt. The two world famous single malts, Glenmorangie and Glen Moray, come together beautifully. The complexity and character of Glenmorangie is complemented with the subtle delicacy of Glen Moray.

Serendipity was an accidental blended malt created by the mistaken mixing of Ardbeg and Glen Moray at Broxburn blending hall in 2005. Earlier, in 1999, a vat of Glenmorangie 21-year-old was accidently mixed with a smaller amount of another whisky. The blended malt, 80% Glenmorangie, was subsequently released as 80:20 by the company’s Douglas McNiven & Co. subsidiary and sold out immediately, retiring into the archives. As for potential buyers, it was surmised that the sheer size of the company ruled out a number of leading drinks groups such as Diageo or Pernod Ricard, whose own Scotch whisky businesses (which included malt brands such as Laphroaig and The Glenlivet, respectively) were large enough to lead to competition concerns if they were to bid for Glenmorangie.

As a result, a company without a major Scotch brand was perhaps the most likely to acquire Glenmorangie – and capture a sizeable share of a fast-growing market in the bargain. The company already had a partnership with two such companies – rum-maker Bacardi and Brown-Forman (owner of Jack Daniel’s) – having joined forces with the two larger groups in 2000 to help develop its business overseas. These two firms would certainly feature as leading potential candidates to acquire Glenmorangie, having the finances, knowledge of the company and an international distribution network to maximise the potential of the Glenmorangie name – as well as a limited presence in the Scotch whisky market.

Ultimately, whoever acquired the business would garner a major share of a malt whisky market which continues to go from strength to strength, even today. Figures from the Scotch Whisky Association show that malt whisky exports increased by 13.5% in 2003, breaking through the £300 million barrier for the first time, with malts proving particularly popular in ‘new’ whisky-drinking nations in Eastern Europe and Asia.

Enter LVMH:

Glenmorangie's final set of interim figures before takeover underlined the importance of the acquisition, with the whisky maker's premium brands all performing ahead of expectations. Total cased volumes sales for the six months to 30 September were up 30%, with the three premium malt brands Glenmorangie, Ardbeg and Glen Moray driving the increase with gains of 11%, 27% and 52% respectively. Value sales of cased whisky (as opposed to bulk sales) were some 23% ahead at £28.7 million. Christmas was certain to increase the 'giftability' of the whisky.

Exceptional costs related to the takeover of the company would reduce pre-tax profits to £4.71 million during the half, although this was still 12% higher than in the previous year, despite the continued investment in brands - underlining the cash-generating qualities of the entity. In a world of surprises, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE, the French agglomerate threw its hat into the ring. Despite market expectations, Pernod Ricard joined battle. Pernod argued that most of its business was in the premium blended market (where it owns market leader Chivas Regal) and not in single malts (where it owns The Glenlivet), and that the addition of Glenmorangie's brands would not lead to any significant competition concerns.

Ultimately, money won, with LVMH buying Pernod out at £300 million, a 6% premium to Glenmorangie's market capitalisation of £282 million.

LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE, the French multinational holding company and conglomerate specialising in luxury goods and headquartered in Paris, controls around 60 subsidiaries that manage 75 luxury brands like Louis Vuitton and Moët Hennessy, Dior, Givenchy, Fendi, Celine, Kenzo, Tiffany, Bulgari, Loewe, TAG Heuer, Marc Jacobs, Sephora, Stella McCartney, Loro Piana and Princess Yachts, among many others. It had a stronghold in Champagne and Cognac, but had yet to make an entry into the booming Scotch Whisky market. Now that an ideal opportunity had presented itself, LVMH had every intention of taking over one of the world’s leading Whisky Companies then on the market.

LVMH said it intended to run Glenmorangie as a stand-alone unit but with a new focus on building the brand's international reputation, entailing hiving off the company's minor brands despite solid growth. Only Glenmorangie and Ardbeg were retained. Moet Hennessy specific skills and experience in the marketing of luxury wines and spirits brands and strong track record ensured that Glenmorangie grew faster and more profitably within Moet Hennessy than as a stand-alone company.

Glenmorangie’s ‘Playful’ Redesign 2022

Starting July 2022, Glenmorangie created a new look for its core range to better reflect the flavours of each expression. The new packaging for Glenmorangie The Original, The Lasanta and The Quinta Ruban aimed to combine ‘elegance, luxurious materials and a sense of fun’. Using the tagline, "It's kind of delicious and wonderful!", the campaign was created in partnership with Aldridge and DDB Paris. Glenmorangie believes that their whisky is truly delicious and the reimagined packaging brings its flavours to the fore, an opportunity to welcome new drinkers with a playful elegance, which reflects creativity in whisky making; and to ensure their single malt stands out by using bold colours and enhanced branding. The new packaging is fully recyclable and comes with a guarantee that the pulp used in the carton comes from well-managed forests. While the whisky inside remains unchanged, the new labels are distinctly different with the hopes that the bottles will better stand out on the shelves, with brighter, bolder colours and large-sized text. 


The three entries in the scotch brands core range that have been affected by the change are the 10-year Original, 12-year Lasanta and 14-year Quinta Ruban. The 10-year-old Original has always been the bestseller in the range, and its new label is designed to appeal to a younger audience. The 12-year Lasanta and 14-year Quinta Ruban are both premium expressions, and their new labels reflect this with a more modernised look. The orange colour used for The Original’s design is based on the 10-year-old whisky’s notes of orange, honey and peach. The red carton for 12-year-old Lasanta was inspired by the ‘rich, spicy sweetness’ of the liquid and the hues of a sunset while the packaging for 14-year-old Quinta Ruban is green to showcase the ‘bold and velvety whisky’s forest-like depths’. The refreshed packaging includes a more ‘elegant’ bottle shape, with wider shoulders, a tapered neck and stopper, and a swirled detail inspired by Glenmorangie’s Signet icon on the base. The carton and labels have also been updated to ensure they stand out on shelves, featuring ‘vivid’ colours to reflect the flavours of each whisky. The new design includes curving lines that run through the packaging to reflect the fluidity of the liquid, the wood used to age Glenmorangie and the distillery’s surroundings.

Glenmorangie’s Fight for its Name

The Glenmorangie name comes from the Gaelic words gleann mor na sith and translates to “glen of tranquility.” Fittingly, the phrase was also used as the brand’s promotion slogan for several years. In 2003, the company was hit with a formal complaint by an anonymous individual from Midlothian claiming that it was misrepresenting the language. The unidentified subject claimed that the true meaning of Glenmorangie loosely translated to “a big valley with a meadow of water.” Not to be budged, Glenmorangie refuted the claim and stated that the translation of Glenmorangie depended on the perceived root of the word. In the end, the brand was awarded the right to claim “glen of tranquility,” though it has since moved on to newer marketing approaches.

Their Attitude towards Casks

Under Dr Lumsden, Glenmorangie has been an industry leader in researching the ways in which wood impacts whisky maturation, blazing a trail on truly exceptional cask-finished whisky, his insistence on slow growth, air-seasoned Ozark Mountain oak barrels that were first used as Bourbon-whisky casks for instance. While other distilleries might use the same casks as many as six times, Glenmorangie’s practice has evolved to use casks only twice in order to retain the fullest flavour for a whisky of exceptional depth and complexity.

The Giraffe Gift Tins

Glenmorangie has introduced a special edition packaging called the Giftable Giraffe Tins. These tins are designed to celebrate the height of Glenmorangie’s stills, the tallest in Scotland. The giraffe-themed tins are not only visually appealing but also support a good cause, with each purchase contributing to the Giraffe Conservation Foundation.

The Giftable Giraffe Tins include:

Glenmorangie Original 10 YO: This is the distillery’s flagship expression, known for its mellow and delicate flavours, matured in ex-bourbon casks.

Glenmorangie Lasanta 12 YO: A rich and full-bodied single malt, aged in sherry casks for an additional layer of sweetness and spice.

Glenmorangie Quinta Ruban 14YO: A darker, more intense whisky, finished in port casks, offering a complex mix of chocolate and fruit notes.


These tins make for a beautiful and meaningful gift, perfect for whisky enthusiasts and those who appreciate unique packaging with a purpose.

LVMH turns Glenmorangie from a Niche whisky into a Global Brand

Glenmorangie was one of the original single malt Scotch whiskies, albeit little-known in the early days. Glenfiddich and The Glenlivet ruled the small roost. The producers thought there was no market for single malts. Blended whisky was where the money had been for more than a century, and they needed the malts to give the blends their distinctive flavour profiles. Yet, Glenmorangie had just one iteration, the bottling now known as Glenmorangie “The Original” 10 Year Old, and it was one of a handful of single malts one could find in specialty shops in Edinburgh and London (Milroy’s whisky shop in Soho.)

A SAMPLE OF THE OLDER EXPRESSIONS

In the early ’90s interest in single malts took off globally, and has been growing rapidly since. But Glenmorangie was not really positioned to capitalise on its established reputation; as a partly family owned, partly publicly traded, company it didn’t have the resources to take advantage of this expanding market for single malt Scotch.

Until, that is, in 2004, when it was bought by French luxury goods giant Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy, presumably in order to add a high-class Scotch to its portfolio of wines and spirits, and everything changed. LVMH has been very clever in upgrading Glenmorangie’s image, and its presence on the world whisky stage, without in any way diminishing the product in the bottle, the whole object of the exercise. Glenmorangie has always been successful in Scotland where it’s been the best-selling malt for decades, but it’s hard labour in wider markets.

According to Dr Lumsden, what has changed is two-fold. Firstly, he suddenly had a lot more money to invest in the distillery, in buying new cask types and doing all the things he couldn’t quite do before, an investment upfront by allowing him to innovate and experiment. Then, they’ve taken the brand onto a truly global platform. The area Glenmorangie always had a problem with was global distribution, and now they have that. Glenmorangie has benefited hugely from the LVMH distribution network because before them, they just didn’t have that network around the world to get Glenmorangie into the best places. They had a network of very independent distributors, but now they have the firepower of one of the world’s leading distribution companies sitting within a fantastic portfolio.

The change most obvious to the consumer is the new bottles, introduced in 2007 and given a further fresh outlook in 2021-22. The pre-LVMH bottles were very traditional and monotonous. But now, with their distinctive, curvaceous shape, they set the brand apart, and are a far better fit for LVMH’s up-market identity. The 2007 redesign, the new and distinctive look, was intended to brighten up the Glenmorangie image so it sat more comfortably within LVMH’s portfolio of chic. The new packaging has allowed Glenmorangie to position itself as a very premium, very desirable single malt whisky. Much more expensive, of course. And they all have tall necks!

The flow of LVMH cash has also enabled Lumsden to double production capacity by installing more stills. They now have the capacity to produce 6M litres a year, and are running very near that, the shortfall being due to programmed ongoing maintenance and expansion of their new environmental project. There’s also the opportunity for cross marketing by incorporating Glenmorangie into events for other LVMH brands, though very sparingly, only when it’s considered appropriate. LVMH has elevated Glenmorangie to the fourth most popular single malt Scotch in the world, an increase of 60% since the takeover.


The Irish Tain: An Unusual Coincidence

THE RECOVERY OF THE TAIN

In days long gone, at a time that is long past, Guaire, the King of Connacht, hosted a huge gathering of poets.  The King was famed for his generosity, but this gathering was testing his goodwill; they ate and drank everything they saw.

Now even in the hardest of times, poetry is regarded as a treasure by the Irish, but these poets had abused their position. The King’s brother Marban, annoyed that the poets’ demands and appetite had included his favourite pig, resolved to discredit them.

He declared that his servant’s wife’s grandmother was a poet’s great grandchild. Even with this remote connection to the art, he showed he knew more than all the other poets.  He asked them questions they couldn’t answer and for performances they couldn’t deliver.  Finally, he challenged them, ‘tell the most famous and celebrated Irish story, The Tain bo Cuilange’. There was a long silence. Then the poets had to admit that no one knew more than a few fragments.  The story had been lost.

The chief bard, Sanchan Torpiest, resolved to recover the story, and the honour of the poets.  The story had been written down in Ogham and taken by a bard to Italy.  A band of Sanchan’s followers, and his son Muirgen, set off to seek this bard. They stopped for the night at Enloch in Connacht.  Muirgen, exhausted, asked the others to go on and find a place to stay while he rested against a large stone.  Alone, Muirgen noticed carving on the stone.  The strokes and lines of Ogham spelled out the name of Fergus Mac Roich, hero of the Tain. 

The companions returned to fetch Muirgen, they found the stone encircled in dense fog, so cold they could barely breathe. They tried to reach their friend but became confused and arrived back outside the wall of fog.

In three days the fog receded.  Then they found Muirgen, elated.  He told them Fergus Mac Roich had appeared to him, dressed in a green cloak over a red tunic with a great sword that had a pommel of bronze.  The spirit of Fergus had told Muirgen the whole story of The Tain, calling up other long forgotten players to bear witness.

The band of poets returned and a crowd gathered to hear the story.  The hall was perfectly still as Muirgen conjured up the Tain; they could hear Cuchulain’s war cry, smell the fires of battle, feel the cold steel of weapons, and they could taste the salt of Deirdre’s tears.

The story survives to this day, written down by the monks of Clonmacnoise.

Ogham stones are stones on which short marks were made in groups of between one and five notches, strokes or diagonal lines, usually on the edge of the stone. Each group signifies a sound in Old Irish, and they are the oldest surviving written form of the language which is still spoken in this area.

THE RECOVERY OF THE TAIN: AN OGHAM STONE

Ogham is an Early Medieval alphabet used primarily to write the early Irish language (in the "orthodox" inscriptions, 4th to 6th centuries AD), and later the Old Irish language (scholastic ogham, 6th to 9th centuries). There are roughly 400 surviving orthodox inscriptions on stone monuments throughout Ireland and western Britain, the bulk of which are in southern Munster. The largest number outside Ireland are in Pembrokeshire, Wales.

The vast majority of the inscriptions consist of personal names.

According to the High Medieval Bríatharogam, the letters are named after various trees. For this reason, Ogham is sometimes known as the Celtic tree alphabet.

Monday, 22 July 2024

NAS SCOTCH WHISKY PHENOMENON

NO AGE STATEMENT SCOTCH WHISKY
FOOL’S GOLD OR THE NEXT GOLD MINE?

Most whisky drinkers look to the age of a given whisky as an indicator of its quality. Because of that tendency, so many whisky buffs baulk when they see a no-age-statement (NAS) variety of whisky at their local liquor store. Conventional wisdom suggests that, just like fine wine, the more time whisky has to age, the better it tastes. Thus, these seasoned aficionados dismiss NAS whiskies as inferior.

However, as is so often the case, there is more to the story than conventional wisdom may suggest. NAS whisky should not be confused with cheap, low-quality whisky; in fact, the opposite is often the case. It is essential to separate the facts about NAS whisky from the myths and see how the increased presence of NAS whisky has opened up new avenues of flavour, aesthetics, and creativity for distillers, bartenders, and whisky drinkers.

Age Statements: If a whisky is to carry an age statement, that being 10, 15, 20 etc. years old then by law it must only list the age of the youngest whisky in the mix, at least in the EU. This law is catching on globally, amongst major players. A whisky comprised of 99% 25 year old whisky, and 1% 3 year old whisky must be marketed as a 3 year old. Faced with growing demand and shortages of aged stock distilleries have started to create whiskies containing younger spirit. Age statement legislation is actually a huge obstacle to transparency and a terrible measure of quality. The legislation actually make it harder for distillers and blenders to be open with consumers. Surely no one considers a nearly exhausted, or even rejuvenated, cask to impart the same flavour profile as a freshly sourced sherry cask. Thus an age statement alone actually causes more problems than it solves; the distilleries are not wrong here, though they were themselves the original culprits in creating this illusion.

As time and demand catch up with the declining stock of aged whiskies worldwide, Master Blenders are bringing out No Age Statement (NAS) whiskies that are younger than the whiskies they are replacing, but decidedly more expensive. In Scotland, Ardbeg, Bruichladdich, Kilchoman and Bunnahabhain from Islay and Talisker from Skye have quite a number of expensive NAS Whiskies on the market, making the most of the peated-whisky boom. Benriach and Tomintoul from Speyside are also into peat as are Jura, Edradour, Springbank’s Longrow family and other distilleries, not only in Scotland but also across the globe. Highlander Glenmorangie, with its extra-maturation, innovative wood finishes and exotic Limited Edition Single Malts (SM) has more NAS expressions than age labelled and adds a couple or more every year. These are just a few of the 140-odd distilleries with 2023-24 NAS expressions in Scotland. The balance has evidently tipped towards marketing at the cost of the consumer.

In 2010, Chivas Regal, along with Glenlivet and Ballantine's launched a global campaign, “Age Matters… Look for the number. Know the age. Know whisky.” But today, Chivas has the Ultis, Extra and Mizunara Blended Malt NAS Whiskies to combat the JW Blue, Island Green, Gold Label and Double Black NAS Whiskies, apart from those presented by the other two biggies. Their Icon is more than three times the price of JW Odyssey Blended Malt. NAS is evidently more than just an acronym and cannot be wished away by mere pronouncements.

Chivas Regal started off as an extremely successful expensive 25 year old (YO) Blended Whisky in the USA in 1909, a quintessential symbol of early 20th century luxury. Chivas closed shop during Prohibition in the USA (1920-33) and reappeared there only in 1939 as the most expensive 12 YO, nearly twice that of its competitors, prompting the unique theory explained below. Chivas Regal 12 YO was the most expensive Blended Scotch in its class in the UK post WWII, but at a drop in price to accommodate a clientele slightly out of pocket due the war. The Chivas Bros 21 YO blend, Royal Salute, first produced in 1953 using most of the aged whiskies left over once the 25 YO faded into memory, was also the most expensive in its class. Interestingly, a new version of the Chivas 25 reappeared in 2007, composed, obviously, of different single malts and grain whiskies, yet tasting fairly similar to the grand original.

The Chivas Regal Effect: One interesting note from pop-economics/ marketing culture is the ‘Chivas Regal Effect,’ which occurs when a product sells more because the price of that product has been increased. The Balvenie 12 YO Doublewood has seen a price hike of more than 80% this year vis-s-vis 2010 and a 35% increase in sales. Since people often equate price with quality, consumers, who otherwise would not have purchased a product, might choose it because it is more expensive (and thus ‘better’ quality). Wine (St. Emilion 1982 @ US$ 220-2,200) is a good example of this effect in the world of alcohol and LVMH in branded consumer goods. NAS whisky distillers were canny enough to implement this concept, which left many consumers in an ambivalent frame of mind, with some annoyed enough to hurl brickbats at NAS whiskies.


Glenlivet, which campaigned along with Chivas Regal in 2010, announced in 2015 that they would be launching an NAS Whisky called The Glenlivet Founder’s Reserve to replace The Glenlivet 12 in Germany and the UK. Pernod Ricard issued a statement: “The Glenlivet 12 Year Old remains, and will remain, the biggest reference in The Glenlivet portfolio globally and the core reference for the brand.” They added that some countries would stock both and other countries one or the other. As an explanation, they said that they felt they owed 'loyal fans' something new, a Long John Silver explanation, at best. Their other NAS, the Master Distiller's Reserve of 2011 was a sell out. They have, however, reverted to age stated whiskies, with a brand new 12 YO gaining immediate global traction and their 15 and 18 YO expressions doing well, competing mainly with Glenfiddich.

Ballantine's have two NAS Blended Scotch Whiskies, the time-honoured Ballantine's Finest and the new Ballantine's Hard Fired, first produced by Chivas Regal for owners Pernod Ricard in November 2016 to provide their 'loyal fans' some novelty with a masculine whisky (??) Ballantine’s Hard Fired whisky is named after the hard-fired finishing casks for this blend. The whisky is extracted from its second-fill American oak barrels, which are then charred by hard firing and refilled as soon as they simmer down with the very same extract and stored for 6-8 months. An interesting twist using a legal loophole: nothing is added to the contents, which would debar it from gaining the sobriquet 'Scotch Whisky', but the container is modified! All perfectly legal.


The furore stoked among some aficionados by the preponderance of No Age Statement whiskies may no longer be sustainable, now that it is known that stocks of malt whisky older than 11 years which had been reducing by about 6% per year since 2010, stabilized at -4% since 2019, a strange side-effect of Covid 19. Sadly, this figure is on the rise again as demand in a more populated, richer and less cash crazy world increases. Such an outcome was anticipated decades ago by prescient producers such as Ardbeg and Glenmorangie, where Dr Bill Lumsden is the Head of Distilling & Whisky Creation. The increased demand for old age single malt whisky stocks have left the whisky baories running a little dry, but it is the perceived lack of transparency that has infuriated a few. The labels on the bottles and the artistic presentations on the cartons have little to reveal to those who believe that old is gold. This issue has been discussed earlier.


Diageo’s Head Of Whisky Outreach Nick Morgan agrees, “There’s increasing demand for Scotch malt whisky, but it is a finite product, and in the face of increasing demand, it becomes increasingly difficult to guarantee a supply of aged stock.” Companies – including Diageo – are responsible for the notion that age = quality: “When the rush towards single malts occurred some 40 years ago, the easiest thing to create a credential was putting numbers on bottles. It justified higher prices and gave them 'integrity'. The industry decided to teach people that age equated to value and now it’s bouncing back on us. The bond of trust between consumers and distillers is breaking.” That said, he thinks most critiques are based on ill-informed views emanating from puritans who don't understand the working of the whisky industry. Must comments are driven by impetuous ignorance. This is one factor that I, from past experience, must agree with.


We’ve successfully been releasing NAS whiskies for nearly 30 years with Glenmorangie and Ardbeg and they are doing very well,” says Lumsden, who has blended a plethora of successful NAS whiskies for both LVMH brands. His theory is simple: if you have the makings of a good whisky, all you need is good wood to make a good barrel or acquire a bespoke barrel. The Ardbeg Kelpie, Corryvreckan, Uigeadail, Ardbog, Galileo, Supernova, Perpetuum, etc., from the Islay stable and the Glenmorangie Signet, Bacalta, The Tarlogan, Dornoch, The Duthac, Companta, Astar 2017 and many more from the Highlands distillery have kept their tills ringing while accumulating awards galore, proving his posit. Their Ardbeg Uigeadail, a cask-strength multiple award winner, reportedly has 6 and 15 YO SMs in its makeup, as I've heard so often. Lumsden, however, states that it contains only 8-12 YO whiskies.


For Glenmorangie, he makes copious use of the Devil's Cut, or ‘indrink’, the liquid absorbed by the wood during maturation mainly in the Sherry industry. Nearly 60L of Sherry awaits the whisky in a 500 L Sherry barrel finish, in a 2 YO Sherry barrel. He adds a note of caution, “Regardless of what you are doing, young whisky in bad wood will be ruthlessly exposed.” GlenDronach, MacDuff, Macallan, Highland Park, Aberlour, Glenfarclas, Dalmore, Ardbeg, Tomatin, Balvenie, Strathisla, Glengoyne, Knockando, Bruichladdich, Glenlivet, Kavalan, Yamazaki and numerous other distilleries are producing excellent Sherry finish whiskies, both NAS and with Age Statement.

There is palpable fear among consumers that the arrival of a new NAS whisky presages the death knell of a much-loved bottling: Macallan’s 1824 Series spelled the end of the 10, 12 and 15 YOs; The Founder’s Reserve is replacing The Glenlivet 12 YO in the UK and Germany; The Talisker 10 may soon disappear, now that the Talisker Skye has followed Talisker Storm, Dark Storm, Neist Point, 57° North and Port Ruighe into the NAS market. Morgan denounces the ‘rumour’ vociferously.

People from the industry like Morgan believe that NAS whiskies were born out of necessity and make life easier for distillers and blenders. The flexibility of producing NAS whiskies gives them much greater creativity when producing a blended single malt – 99% of single malts are ‘blends’ anyway. It is undeniable that age-statement SMs and Blended Scotch are increasingly becoming rarities in an NAS world. Almost 80% of Scotch whisky sold does not have an age statement. All basic Blended Scotch brands rarely spell out their age, although there are many that do, including 3/4/5/6/7/8/9/10 year olds and more. Almost all 12 & 12+ YOs do, barring a handful. Also, creating NAS whiskies is one way of preserving stocks of aged whiskies for the popular age-stated brands, a concept hard to digest, but true.


George Grant, Sales Director, J&G Grant, disagrees. “Twenty years ago we told people what made Scotch whisky different from Cognac and Rum, etc., and why we were putting an Age Statement on the label: We wanted the customer to understand what they were buying. Of our 71 brands, only one is an NAS (?). When we ran out of aged stocks, we pulled our 30 and 40-year-olds off the market until we had enough. Compared to Cognac with its vague terms like XO and VSOP, I think age statements have been a huge strength for Scotch." So how can one turn 180° and tell the same people that one's whisky no longer carries an age statement? The interesting aspect I foresee is that in another few years, these distilleries will have aged stock again, lots of it. How will they cloak this change? Rediscover age statements and put them back on? Or carry on regardless, blending SMs in the €100-200 and more price range?

There are many reasons to justify NAS whiskies, but in some cases the whisky hasn’t come up to expectations in terms of quality. Taking younger but good SMs and blending them with older ones is not a problem, since technological advancements over the years have markedly improved distillation and wood management techniques, but the whisky still needs to be satiating in a market where the customer is king and has become picky and demanding.

Reviews of single malt Scotch whiskies between August 2015 and July 2016 confirm that age is a good indicator of quality – but not necessarily a perfect one. Whiskies 6-11 years of age are capable of scoring as high as far older whiskies. In other words, age does tend to improve whisky – but exceptional younger whiskies are capable of very high scores. “People should make a judgement on quality alone and not be swayed by the importance of age,” says Euan Mitchell, MD at Arran Distillers, a distillery that is just 21 years old and already pushing for NAS Whiskies.

I am not prepared to accept Mitchell's "summing it all up" statement. There are far too many brands out there, veritably slugging it out in a tight market, a major portion of which is reserved for the VIP Brands. If NAS whiskies will actually help ensure the long-term survival of those classic age-statement whiskies – I’ll gladly raise a toast to it. But I cannot get over my nagging fear that there is bound to be the less scrupulous distiller or private bottler who will cut corners. Such products that do not meet quality standards dictated by their price must be brought to book. But how? Who will dictate or define standards, as one man's uisge could be another man's hooch?

Macallan is an active proponent of NAS Whiskies, so I’ll let Ken Greer, the erstwhile Creative Director at Macallan who faced derisive remarks on the introduction of the Macallan’s 1824 Series, have the last word. He says that he gave his Master Blender has carte blanche in picking out any whisky for bottling in every category. This is done when he feels that the whisky is at its peak, like picking an apple when it is ripe, and not on some pre-decided date. For Greer, Scotch Whisky was about exceptional quality. It is about the integrity of the Scotch Whisky owners, distillers and producers, who, as guardians of that precious elixir, make sure that the right quality goes into the appropriate bottle at the right price point, whether it carries an age statement or not. Nobody will try to hoodwink some poor soul. That remains to be seen, doesn’t it?