PORT ELLEN REOPENS

'GHOST’ WHISKY DISTILLERY IN SCOTLAND
REOPENS AFTER 40 YEARS

It was pure serendipity. The magic happened because the whisky was forgotten about and left alone, though memories didn't die. Being in the less active refill casks meant the spirit could shine, and the longer it aged in the Scottish climate, the better it got. With its long pedigree, its seafront location, and fed by muddy Leorin Lochs, it became a place of pilgrimage for salivating maltheads the world over. 

 

Port Ellen, once the remnants of a "ghost" distillery on Islay, a great source of peated whisky in Scotland, is now an ultra exclusive distillery with a luxurious and polished blueprint.

Port Ellen was founded in 1825 on the island of Islay, known for its smoky whiskies. For more than 150 years, the distillery produced peated whisky, which was mostly used for blends as opposed to single malts.  In 1983, the workhorse distillery closed due to an excess of single malt whisky production in the area. The surplus forced a number of whisky-making locations to close in order to promote the financial robustness of larger companies.

In the years since, the site was used for malting barley. That didn’t last long. As whisky fans, collectors, and aficionados discovered there were still barrels of Port Ellen whisky hidden away in warehouses around Scotland, the liquid gained in popularity—and increased in price. In 2017, parent company Diageo announced that the distillery would be rebuilt and reopened.

There are several highly regarded ghost distilleries throughout Scotland, a term that refers to distilleries that were shuttered decades ago but still release whisky from barrels tucked away in warehouses throughout the country. Some of the prominent ones are Auchnagie, Stratheden, Gerston, Lossit and Towiemore, among others. But none as familiar as Port Ellen and its astronomical prices when released by parent company Diageo. The distillery officially reopened end March 2024 after seven years and a £185 million investment.

The new Port Ellen distillery has a completely fresh design, featuring a glass stillhouse, two pairs of copper pot stills that are exact replicas of the original stills, and a set of experimental stills that will be used for smaller batch whiskies (whisky production got underway early this year). The rest of the distillery was completely modernised as well, including the roller mill, the laboratory, the spirit safe, and a sustainability effort that has made it completely carbon neutral. The team is also launching a special programme to study smoke, which will use algorithmic imagery to decipher how the peat levels in the whisky respond to aging.

Port Ellen was a flavour factory for creating a sweet, smoky type of Islay whisky. For the reopening of Port Ellen, what they wanted to do was create two different styles of whisky there, that still had the same style that Port Ellen was known for. What they wanted to do was recreate the stills to the exact specifications as they were before it closed in 1983.

Among the eight million items within Diageo’s renowned alcohol archive lie the blueprints for the stills of Port Ellen from decades ago. The originals have been recreated. While some of the once-abandoned features of the distillery were replicated, Port Ellen reopened with a number of modern improvements and functional elements.

Port Ellen is a private oasis, and visitors will need to request an appointment in advance. Walk-ins are encouraged at other distilleries on Islay, including Caol IIa and Lagavulin. Visitors finish up with a tasting of some of the liquid from that distillery from before it closed in 1983 as a luxury experience.

The transformed construction subtly nods to the history of the ghost of Port Ellen, but there is one timeless relic that is crucial to today’s whisky emergence. Iain McArthur, a former employee of Port Ellen, recently retired after a noteworthy career in whisky making. The remnant cask that is presently being used by Port Ellen to create Gemini, a newly released whisky, was saved by McArthur before the original distillery closed down.

He took it from Port Ellen to Lagavulin, and that's what Diageo took back to Port Ellen for the recent bottling. This was a critical, intrinsic part in, not only the distillery story, but also in saving that wonderful barrel. Such are the rewards on offer for waking a ghost. But reaping them requires deep pockets.

Across the courtyard, the new still room resembles a vast industrial greenhouse with four shiny new copper stills as its exotic plants. Two giant “Phoenix” stills are replicas of the ones that made Port Ellen’s reputation. The smaller second pair – The Experimental Stills – designed expressly for experimentation, will take the art and science of whisky exploration to levels of precision never before seen in Scotch whisky distillation.

The Experimental Stills are linked to a signature Ten Part Spirit Safe –a truly innovative piece of distilling equipment - that allows the Port Ellen whisky makers unprecedented opportunity for experimentation. While standard distillery spirit safes allow for three cuts of the spirit run – the head, the heart and the tails - the Port Ellen Ten Part Spirit Safe allows multiple cuts to be drawn from the heart of the run, accessing previously unexplored flavours and characters, and takes the whisky-making art to new levels of intricacy and complexity. The distillery has a dedicated on-site laboratory and a full-time laboratory technician to analyse and catalogue the new experimental whiskies that emerge.

In line with Diageo’s commitment to be carbon neutral in its direct production business globally by 2030, Port Ellen will be carbon neutral from the start, with every part of the distillation process optimised so that water and heat are both recycled, and all energy produced by a renewable-biofuel boiler. For example, by choosing biofuel they have avoided vast amounts of carbon emissions, and after minimising the emissions very significantly, they work with reputable suppliers to offset the low levels of residual emissions using verified, high-quality carbon offsetting schemes.

In the background, the Maltings, a Diageo-owned plant that supplies bespoke malted barley to Port Ellen and other distilleries on the island, emits a rarely interrupted plume of gray smoke, filling the air with the bouquet of a peat-fired brewery. Looking out, if there are no dolphins or Caledonian MacBrayne ferries gliding across the bay, the eye is drawn to the hills of Antrim in Northern Ireland and the Mull of Kintyre on the Scottish mainland, with an unobstructed line of sight through the glass stillhouse to the stunning coastline of Islay, across the bay to Carraig Fhada lighthouse. On clear days, they loom so large on the horizon, it’s easy to imagine Viking longboats darting back and forth, as they once did.

Back inside, the tea service offers further inspiration. Having been served Hijiri Hojicha, a roasted green tea from a supplier to Japan’s imperial court, to attune their palates to notes of hay, visitors might find themselves detecting similar scents in one of the straight-from-the-stills experimental spirit samples created under the watch of Master Distiller Alexander McDonald.

The remarkable differences between freshly distilled batches of spirit run off as little as half an hour apart offer an insight into the distillery’s future as a center for innovation with a particular focus on how peat smoke is managed throughout the distilling process. McDonald already has a to-do list of over 1,000 experiments that will involve playing around with variables such as peat and copper contact, and even the shape of the stills. An on-site laboratory and what can only be described as a make-your-own-whisky playroom add to the alchemical ambience. Innovation was part of the old distillery’s story — it was notably one of the first Scottish distilleries to export to North America — and it aims to continue breaking new ground.

“It is important that we recreate that classic Port Ellen character that people love, but we also want to be doing things we’ve not done before,” says McDonald. “For me, leaning on the past is not quite good enough.”

THE ANALYSES

For two years, Diageo analysed various Scotch whiskies using AI and algorithms. They invested $230 million in a portfolio of whisky tourism projects. A portion of this lump sum was dedicated to the exploration of whisky maturation using technology called SmokeDNAi.

The announcement of SmokeDNAi comes on the heels of Port Ellen’s reopening in Scotland after 40 years with modern advancements to both construction and whisky-making.

Using SmokeDNAi, teams tested and analysed the flavour profiles and mouthfeel of non-identical twin whiskies distilled in different casks – one remnant and one original. The pair of rare whiskies is named Port Ellen Gemini, and each bottle costs $50,000. Both these whiskies were distilled in 1978. The white-label Port Ellen Gemini Original Cask is bottled at 54.9% ABV, while the black-label Port Ellen Gemini Remnant Cask is bottled at 53.6% ABV. Only 274 sets were made available worldwide.Reviews of Port Ellen Gemini 44 YO Bottles

Port Ellen Gemini Original

Port Ellen Gemini Original is an exquisite whisky matured in reserve European Oak butts, longer than any previous release from this cult icon, and left in its original splendour. This untouched whisky from 1978 has smooth, sweet, salty, and smoky characteristics allowing an appreciation of Port Ellen distillery’s time-honoured craft and the characterful Islay smoke.

Tasting Notes

Appearance: Clear harvest gold.
Body: Medium to full.
Nose: Explore light prickle, hints of baked pear and sweet edible seaweed. Dive deeper, for maritime scents born of long years in a sea-side warehouse. Surface, to faint traces of smoke that become ashy, as with a spent bonfire. Late on, seek out a sweet suggestion of soft fudge. Add water to find that sweetness and smokiness more pronounced.
Palate: Find pleasure in the firm, smooth body and vital, sweet-spicy flavours. Marvel at the intensity and freshness of those flavours after so many years. Discern a dash of salt mid palate, amid the embrace of a smoky warmth. Add water to find a smooth mix of baked apple skins and lightly medicinal aromas, the charred ashes of a bonfire clear in the development.
Finish: Luxuriate in its length, leaving aromatic sweet smoke to linger on the palate.
Overall: A Collector’s item, in all its glorious pomposity.

Port Ellen Gemini Remnant

Port Ellen Gemini Remnant, the second of these twin whiskies, embarked on a new maturation journey within the Port Ellen remnant cask. A feature of every distillery, the remnant cask is used to measure excess spirit from a filling run. Safeguarded on Islay, the Remnant Cask, an unusual barrel of timeless worth, was revealed to have touches of three generations of Port Ellen history. The cask was then revived with the same liquid it contained a century ago, walnut brown sherry. Saved by a group of Islay distillers at the close of Port Ellen in 1983 and sheltered for 40 years, the cask was recovered and its re-seasoning set new life in motion through the innovative finish of the 44-Year-Old Port Ellen. This finishing technique imbues the whisky with a golden garment of sea salt, smoke, dried fruit and oak.

Appearance: Gaze into clear harvest gold.
Body: Medium to full.
Nose: Explore light prickle, hints of baked pear and sweet edible seaweed. Dive deeper, for maritime scents born of long years in a sea-side warehouse. Surface to faint traces of smoke that become ashy, as with a spent bonfire. Later on, seek out a sweet suggestion of soft fudge. Add water to find that sweetness and smokiness more pronounced.
Palate: Find pleasure in the firm, smooth body and vital, sweet-spicy flavours. Marvel at the intensity and freshness of those flavours after so many years. Discern a dash of salt mid palate, amid the embrace of a smoky warmth. Add water to find a smooth mix of baked apple skins and lightly medicinal aromas, the charred ashes of a bonfire clear in the development. Dried fruit makes its appearance felt, as it merges into the defining oak.
Finish: Luxuriate in its length, leaving aromatic sweet smoke to linger on the palate.
Overall: Presented in a luxurious, striking display case, this is sure to be the jewel in any whisky collectors treasure chest.

The purpose of the analysis is to better understand whisky ageing in a barrel.

SmokeDNAi technology: SmokeDNAi technology is used by Diageo to test and analyze mouth-feel and flavors of liquids from different casks. They want to have a slow maturation in a barrel where they’re controlling the flavour. They get a much better understanding of why they taste the way they taste, or why they smell the way they smell, or the mouth-feel.

Between two whisky casks from Port Ellen, the vanilla characteristic, vanillin, varied. One cask contained around 3%, while the other included more than double, around 6%. The remnant cask contained liquors from the 1960s and 1980s. Port Ellen can leverage data sets in order to maximize production, flavour and sales of whisky and new blends in the future.

Using samples of whisky, the liquid is put through a chemical analysis process, gas chromatography or liquid chromatography, and data sets of distinct components are broken down by an algorithm. Diageo then uses SmokeDNAi technology and Out of the Ether designs to create a visualization of the flavour profiles of liquors.

WHISKY vs WHISKEY: THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE BROWN LIQUORS

It basically takes a signature of that liquid, and then it gives analysts a reading or a spike reading of the different compounds that are in there. Diageo wanted to do was demystify that and make it easy. Diageo also sought to offer consumers taste and flavour through sight. Out of the Ether, "an algorithmic machine generated work of art that harnesses SmokeDNAi technology," according to Diageo, produces imagery of whisky smoke over time. Design experts, in collaboration with Bose Collins, worked to produce visuals that are more easily digested by a consumer versus data sets.

They have, for example, an overlay with the chemical name like vanillin, which smells and tastes like vanilla. Here, whisky enthusiasts can gaze at flavour combinations, aromas and unambiguous profiles that wouldn’t be visible to the naked eye.

On the visual, observers will see the small amounts of one particle that moves around. Then, there's a larger cloud in there and then that will show them the percentile of these compounds that sit in there. Visual profiles may include a combination of coconut, smoky, earthy, medicinal, floral and sweet flavours. It gives the observer a really great, at a glance, visualisation of what's going on inside the barrel, a much, much clearer understanding of your own whisky.

Aqua vitae (‘water of life’ in Latin) was the generic term for distilled spirits throughout the Roman Empire, widely used during the Middle Ages and the Renaissance and translated into many languages. In Gaelic, it was uisge beatha, in Irish uisce beatha. Whisky connoisseur Charles MacLean says that this was Anglicised from uiskie (c.1618) to whiskie (1715) to whisky (1746). F Paul Pacult, the author of ‘A Double Scotch’, 2005, says that Aqua Vitae ultimately became whisky in 1736. But whiskey? For a complete run-down, try this site.

 

THE STRANGE HISTORY OF BLACK DOG SCOTCH

  BLACK DOG SCOTCH WHISKY

OF INTERNATIONAL APPEAL AND OF INDIAN CONCEPT

BUT WAS SIR WALTER SAMUEL MILLARD A HOAX?

Diageo’s Black Dog 12 YO and 8 YO Blended Scotch Whiskies:

Black Dog Deluxe Gold and Centenary Black Reserve Scotch Whiskies in 2015

Black Dog is a brand of Scotch whisky that is bottled and marketed in India by United Spirits Limited (USL), a subsidiary of Diageo PLC. In 2013, Black Dog was reported to be the world's fastest growing Scotch whisky by volume, according to International Wine and Spirits Research (IWSR), with the highest consumption reported in India. The whiskies used in the blend come from Scotland. Black Dog Scotch Whisky sold in India is bottled in Parmori District Nasik in Maharashtra, by importing the undiluted spirits from Scotland, a strategy that avoids the 150% import duties on liquor entering India that is bottled prior to import, while paying only about 30% when bottled in India. The Black Dog Centenary Black Reserve is a well-matured and blended 8-year-old and the Deluxe Gold Reserve was a decent 12-year-old Scotch whisky.

Sir Walter Millard features prominently on both items

Originally, the print on the carton and the bottle labels, as can be seen above for the Deluxe Gold Reserve, both began, ”Sir Walter Millard travelled to Scotland in 1883 in search of an impeccable Scotch whisky. His search ended in a blend created by James Mackinlay from Leath. Being a keen angler, Sir Walter Millard named the whisky Black Dog in honour of his favourite salmon fishing fly used in the Spey and Tay rivers of Scotland since the early 19th century. Thus was born the Black Dog Scotch Whisky.” This was followed by details of the nose, palate, finish and other regulation attributes, which is the norm for most brands of alcohol. The very same tale featured on the 8 YO as well. The story of this Sir Walter Millard fishing for salmon in the Spey and Tay rivers in the Scottish Highlands (Speyside) did not ring true.

A study shows that these are patently false claims. Walter Samuel Millard (1864–1952) was born in Huntingdon, Cambridgeshire in 1864, the seventh son of Rev. J.H. Millard, and was a 19-year-old stripling in 1883. To claim that an unknown lad of 19 could be an expert in assessing an international class blended whisky created for export to the Indian subcontinent and other British Colonies in proximity as well as fishing flies in well-known rivers of Scotland is a gross distortion of the truth in an era when such claims could not be checked. The internet changed everything radically. There is no record of his ever being knighted either.   

The entire lot of Black Dog whiskies were suddenly taken out of the Indian market in 2017-18, for rewording and to possibly preclude uncomfortable questions about Mr Millard. Today, on return to the market, there is no such fulsome and repeated mention of Sir Walter Millard. Pray, why would such a “prominent” name, which had featured for decades and served as an USP, be removed?

This brand of whisky reappeared only in 2018-19, in a radically different avatar and with the notation on the bottle labels and cardboard cartons changed considerably. The Black Dog Deluxe Gold Reserve became the Black Dog Triple Gold Reserve. The notation on the Black Dog Centenary Black Reserve also changed almost totally. How and why did this change come about?

No mention of Sir Walter Millard?

In the 19th century, the sun never set over the British Empire, so vast was its spread. Since the only mode of international cross-continental travel was by sea, the Empire invariably faced logistic and infrastructural problems as sea routes were subject to unpredictable weather conditions en route. While a great many problems could be resolved by local provisioning, the high and mighty faced problems in supplies which could only be brought from back home, e.g., wine, alcohol and tobacco.

Herbert Musgrave Phipson (1850–1936), was a British wine merchant and naturalist who lived in Bombay (now Mumbai), India, from 1878 to 1905. He had come to India in 1878 as a partner in the firm of J. A. Forbes & Co., Bombay. In 1883, he established his own company, Phipson & Co. Wine Merchants and employed a Briton from Huntingdon, Cambridgeshire, Walter Samuel Millard (1864–1952), an educated young bachelor who would soon become fairly knowledgeable about liquor, which could be traced back to his in-laws to be. Records show that Millard first set foot in India in early 1884. Phipson also served as the Honorary Secretary of the Bombay Natural History Society and the Editor of its Journal for twenty years – as the sole editor for fifteen years till 1901 and then joint editor with Millard, who succeeded him as Hon'y Sec'y in 1906, when Phipson returned home due to his wife's continued sickness. There is no record in the UK of Walter Samuel Millard ever being knighted. This was a hoax played on the gullible customer. However, his services to the Society supra and other causes, as also to the British Armed Forces as a provender of high-quality perishables, is indisputable.

Phipson and Co. expanded quickly and had outlets all over Asia, in present-day Pakistan, India, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Nepal, Burma, Singapore, Indonesia, Thailand, the Philippines and more, which required a lot of shuttling to and fro. Unfortunately for them, wine and alcohol seemed to be in short supply, mainly because they were sourced from home around The Cape Of Good Hope.

In 1883, Phipson was in England to place bulk orders for his trade and also set up both contacts and contracts with stockists of Red, White and Rose Wines, Port, Sherry, Gin, Brandy, Cognac and Whisky. Whisky could only be procured from Scotland. He was hard-pressed for time to find a Whisky to suit the hot and dusty Indian and other Asian countries. Phipson then employed Walter Samuel Millard (1864–1952), a 19-year-old educated bachelor presumably knowledgeable about the basics of whisky to do the concomitant legwork. Both Millard and Phipson were pure Britishers, with nary a Scottish connection. This implied that the 19-year-old Millard had to travel to Scotland, scout the numerous districts,  distilleries and agents and make an informed decision on the basis of advice rendered to him earlier by Phipson.

Phipson detailed him to go to Speyside and look up distilleries and then fetch up at Mackinlay's in Leith, Edinburgh and get him to produce and/or provide a good blended whisky that would suit conditions in Asia. By then, MacKinley’s name and fame had started to circulate, to peak with his 15-YO blends that he would supply Antarctic explorer Ernest Shackleton between 1898 and 1907. He was known in Scotland as the 'Royalty of Whisky'. Three bottles of 15-year bottled-in-1898 Mackinlay's Scotch Whisky were found in 2010 among three crates of Scotch and two of brandy buried beneath a basic hut Shackleton had used during his dramatic failed 1907-09 Nimrod excursion to the Antarctic. Millard met Mackinlay's daughter at Leith, and was betrothed to her as a young 19-year-old youth. Phipson was still in England when the Bombay Natural History Society (BNHS) was founded on 15 September 1883. Upon his return to Bombay, he immediately joined BNHS.

In 1875, Charles registered the brand Mackinlays Vatted Old Benvorlich Scotch whisky and opened offices in London, first on Queen Victoria Street then at Crutched Friar. Mackinlays Vatted Old Benvorlich was thus introduced to London. He purchased Corbett Borthwicks Warehouse, East Old Dock, Leith, later that year and used the spacious area as his blending headquarters.

James, son of Charles Mackinlay, established in 1815 (see label), was a second-generation whisky blender from the Leith family who produced a large number of brands of different ages, like Mackinlay's 'Fine Old Scotch Whisky' as three to seven-year olds were known and 'Rare Old Scotch Whisky', the term for eight-year-olds. He was also a supplier of raw single malt whiskies to other whisky brands that were sprouting all over, once the ban on blending grain and malt whiskies was removed for brewers and distillers in 1860 and for grocers in 1863. Millard toured the smallish Speyside region as ordered, taking extensive notes of as many popular brands he could find. He then left for Edinburgh, heading for Mackinlay's establishment. As stated earlier, he met and fell in love with Mackinlay's daughter there, whom he was to ultimately wed in 1889, the year the finest 12 YO expression of Black Dog was released.

Together with James, Millard discovered the blend he  was looking for. Its unique taste, delicate aroma and smooth effect on the palate were the aspects that appealed the most and brought an interim end to Millard's quest since time was of the essence and he needed to get back to India. British export rules did not allow the carrying of unnamed and unregistered bottles/containers of alcohol, so the whisky selected had to be named, registered and put on the ship's cargo manifest as such. The prevailing blanket ban on the export of Scotch whisky in wooden containers (read oak barrels) was not in force then and it is not clear whether the Whisky was transported in barrels, a format favoured by most other blenders, allowing the whisky in the oak casks to absorb maritime air while in transit, or in bottles. Millard may have named it after himself, probably for want of a better option, while Mackinlay helped him register it. There is no evidence to support either hypothesis, though Millard did escort that consignment. There is no record of any whisky named Millard's Black Dog either.

Phipson's actual reaction to this fait accompli is not recorded. There is an interesting anecdote as to the origin of this brand's final label. Being an 'Angler' and considering his love for this sport, Millard named the Scotch after his favourite fishing fly - the Black Dog - allowed, in all probability, as a quid pro quo by Phipson. This unsubstantiated tidbit notwithstanding, there is  a simpler and less fairy-tale like school of thought. It is quite probable that James Mackinlay, already a big name in Scotch Whisky blending, was titling his collection of brands after an array of fishing flies and that Millard selected a regal-sounding existing brand, Black Dog. Again, this is unsubstantiated as all MacKinlay's blends are examined in detail in a separate post. All said and done, Millard had just signed a contract for it and was, temporarily, the Boss. The bare truth is that Millard was nothing more than a young and educated representative of Phipson in 1883, destined to rise to fame for his long future association with the Bombay Natural History Society, and possibly, the success of his mascot, Black Dog.  

This Scotch, supposedly 'Millard's Black Dog', was only eight years old, a 'Rare Scotch', and in all possibility, a Blended Scotch whisky. Millard wanted MacKinlay to try the various whiskies- both single grain and single malts- he had described in his notes. He thus brought about, by default, the most important quality required of a blender of Scotch Whisky, viz., to give the spirit an extended period of time to blend/marry and mature in a wooden cask! MacKinlay was to set up the Glen Mhor Distillery at Inverness in the Highlands in 1892, with an extension in Leith, 160 miles away into the mid-Speyside region to facilitate blending. 

Millard loaded a shipful of 'his' Black Dog whisky and set course for India with more to follow. Competition was building up; a plethora of brands was also roving overseas in search of markets. While Mackinlay kept up the supply of Black Dog Rare Whisky, he was also carrying out experiments in his own backyard by adding similarly aged whiskies based on his knowledge and Millard's notes and testing them out. 12-year-old Scotch whiskies were now emerging, though the 'Premium Extra Special' whiskies were expensive. Millard returned in 1889 for his much-awaited wedding and, when there, found a delightful new expression that would take centre-stage globally.

If on track, the new 12 YO Black Dog would have to be renamed, since the original, which was to be gradually and unobtrusively withdrawn, was already a global brand. This saw the emergence of the (blended at Mackinlay) Phipson Black Dog, an exquisite 12 YO Blended Scotch, in a totally different shaped dark brown bottle, which became a bestseller overnight in Scotland, sufficient cause for jacking up the price, first internationally, then locally.  

There is yet another school of thought, which, on reflection and ratiocination, seems most likely. Phipson was in England in early 1883, in pursuit of essentials to set up his wine shop. He had heard of James MacKinlay, aka 'The Royalty of Blenders' and wanted to commission him to produce a rare/fine Scotch Whisky to suit Asia and other tropical British colonies. He employed Walter, an educated young lad of 19 for this task. Millard was to scour Speyside for good whiskies, meet up with and assist James in conjuring up a magical potion, while he got back to India, knowing that this would be a time-consuming task. Millard did as ordered, while also courting James' daughter, who he married in 1889, the year James put together the majestic deluxe 12 YO blend. Millard and James were successful in creating a rare 8 YO blend, which Millard, short of time and ideas, named Black Dog on James' advice. As stated earlier, Phipson Black Dog was to follow and make history. This theory supports the fact that Millard first set foot in India in 1884, escorting the consignment of the whisky in question. Was it named Millard Black Dog? There is no direct evidence for or against any answer to this query.

The point of note here is that barrels of Scotch Whisky are allowed to mature in Scotland for as long as required, though mandated for a minimum of three years to qualify as a Scotch Whisky. Maturing liquor in India is a radically different proposition. The different tropical climate raises the annual Angel's Share (loss due to evaporation) to 10-12% vs 2-2.5% in Scotland and maturing beyond six years renders that whisky unpalatable. Only bottling of liquor imported from overseas is done in India.

James then bought Glen Albyn distillery in Inverness with the profit his MacKinlay whiskies and The Black Dog were reeling in, hand over hand. Such was his reputation that the explorer Ernest Shackleton took with him 25 cases of “Rare old Highland malt whisky, blended and bottled by Chas. MacKinlay and Co.” to the Antarctic on his 1909 expedition to the South Pole. As already stated, three bottles of rare 19th century Scotch whisky, MacKinlay's 15 YO, left behind by Shackleton in 1909, were discovered 101 years later, buried under the floorboards of his shack.

One of the recovered bottles

The packing case

              

His ne'er do well son then bought Glen Ord distillery in 1896 and sold his whisky as Glen Oran, which failed in the market. James intervened and sold off both Glen Ord and Glen Albyn in 1899 to recoup losses.

Note outline of logo of the erstwhile fly Source: Noel Moitra

A study of the labels reveals that the Black Dog was a 12 YO Scotch Whisky, specially blended and bottled for the sole proprietors, Phipson & Co., Limited, 750 ML and 43% Alcohol by volume. Metrication was introduced in India in Dec 1956, effective 01 Jan 1958, whereas the UK went metric only in 1965. This bottle is therefore of a 1958 or 1965 vintage. Moreover, Phipson & Co. was established in 1883. This leads to the same question-was there ever a Millard's Black Dog Scotch Whisky? Or was this an elaborate USL hoax?

This would mean that the USL/Diageo story about Sir Walter Millard and his favourite fishing fly is a myth. This Scotch Whisky could have been named after Millard for only six years, 1883-89, if at all. He was a callow stripling then, certainly not knighted and in no position to be a great angler with a string of fishing flies. The rivers mentioned, Spey and Tay, are in the Speyside region of Scotland and far from accessible from distant Huntingdon, Cambridgeshire, Great Britain. This is yet another false claim that compounds the myth.

Where did the Phipson bottle shown come from? From my memorabilia. No bottle bearing the name Millard Black Dog has yet been found. Or was this a scam buried in posterity, with nobody having the time to check the veracity of any claim of over a hundred and forty years ago?

That said, this 12 YO premium whisky had beaten Walker's Very Special Old Highland by a margin of 20 years; Johnnie Walker's 12 YO Black Label hit the market in that new avatar only in 1909, when a decision was made to simplify the names of its rather pompous but anachronous brands. It was well appreciated, but found inferior to Black Dog, even after it undercut the latter's price. Black Dog was the premium whisky served on board Air India's international flights, and one of the leading brands of Scotch whisky on board passenger ships and Indian Navy warships. Surprisingly, this whisky was not available anywhere west of the Middle East, suggesting the transfer of each and every single one of these bottles to India and her neighbours and that Phipson held sway only in and around the Middle East and Indian subcontinent.

Painstakingly conjured up over a period of twelve long years, Black Dog Scotch instantly became the favourite of connoisseurs all over the world after making a dramatic debut as an eight-year-old in 1883, and re-emerging as a different Premium 12 YO blend six years later. This was hardly surprising, considering that each Black Dog Scotch was a masterful blend of fine taste and exquisite artistry. The label clearly states 'Since 1883'.

 

A newspaper cutting supposedly bolstering the Millard story. It is an obvious fraud: In 1883, Walter Samuel Millard was a 19-year old civilian stripling, and certainly not knighted; Sep 17, 1883 was a Tuesday, not Saturday; the word aficionado entered the English dictionary with a different connotation in the mid-19th century; the spellings of honour/flavour are wrong. I must thank Callum McKean, of the News Reference Team, The British Library, London, who searched through the British Newspaper Archive, a database of digitised local and regional newspapers which is especially comprehensive for the late nineteenth century. He was unable to locate this article. It appeared to him that this is a modern mock-up image as the typeface, wording and layout of the newspaper pictured were not consistent with any late nineteenth-century newspapers of which he was aware. (This could perhaps explain the spelling mistakes, wrong selection of words and why the date and day of publication were mismatched too). N M.

Today, Phipson's Black Dog has become a collector's item. My coursemates and I imbibed this and many other premium brands while celebrating our commissioning into the Indian Air Force 1971. I kept my eyes and ears open for any future mention of this brand, and found many old 12-bottle cases of Phipson Black Dog 12 YO in the Indian Navy Duty-Free Canteen. I managed a bottle or two, to my good luck, off sympathetic coursemates.

When the British started to leave India in 1942, Phipson and Co. battled hard to stay on, well beyond 1947 when India gained Independence. Walter Millard died in England in 1952. Carew and Co., a smaller liquor dealer, and Phipson & Co. were partly taken over in 1963-64 and merged with itself by McDowell & Co, owned by United Breweries Group (UB), an Indian alcoholic beverages company. in 2002, the company acquired Phipson Distillery marking the demise of Phipson Black Dog. In 2006, McDowell & Co Ltd, Herbertsons Limited, Triumph Distillers and Vintners Private Limited, Baramati Grape Industries India Limited, Shaw Wallace Distilleries Limited and four other companies were merged to form United Spirits Limited, the world's second-largest spirits company by volume. It is now a subsidiary of Diageo, and headquartered in Bangalore. USL exports its products to over 37 countries. 

USL also owned Whyte & Mackay and as Phipson Black Dog died with the taking over of the company, it turned to Richard Paterson, Master Blender at W&M to recreate The Black Dog. This acquisition of Scottish major Whyte & Mackay, with one of the largest inventories of aged malts and grain whisky reserves, saw USL bolstering Black Dog with better-aged variants to prop up premium appeal. USL started premiumising Black Dog. Rather than just placing the product on retail shelves, the company took an account management approach and created a huge buzz around the brand. But Phipson Black Dog rules the roost.

Four versions of the five current generation Black Dog Scotch Whisky exist today, with one premium version sold out. The 18 and 25 YO versions will not last much longer, as of today.

Current Editions:

Black Dog Centenary Black Reserve Scotch Whisky

Black Dog Centenary Reserve is a rich and rare blended Scotch whisky loaded with exceptional character. It is blended well with a multitude of malt and grain spirits chosen from various regions of Scotland. On completing 8 years in barrels, it is exported to India for bottling and sale. A few barrels are bottled for the local market as well. The whisky had a distinctive briny note, picked up in transit from Scotland to India. In 2008, a new law was passed by the Scotch Whisky Association (SWA) banning the export of Scotch whisky in wooden casks. The original proposal of mandating export of all Scotch whisky only in properly labelled bottles was opposed in strength and defeated by distillers. Even so, single malt Scotch whisky may only be exported in bottles labelled as mandated by the SWA.

Black Dog Triple Gold Reserve Scotch Whisky

The latest offering from the brand is Black Dog Triple Gold Reserve. In the triple maturation process, Grain and 32 odd Malt whiskies (the descriptive panel says 25) are matured separately in American Bourbon Casks and then blended together and matured again in Oloroso Sherry Butts for an extra long period of time to give the blend a distinctive flavour and a delicate finish. This gives this scotch a very fine finish and is a tangible improvement of the 12 YO Black Dog Deluxe Gold Reserve. Its effect on the market is yet to be assessed, what with Whyte and Mackay and its massive inventory being sold yet again, this time to Philippines-based Emperador Inc.  These whiskies come from four regions of Scotland - Speyside, Islay, Highlands and Lowlands, each matured for a minimum period of 12 years creating a bouquet that captures all the flavours of Scotland, giving the blend its very distinctive flavour and taste. Over 80% of its output is bottled in India, the balance going into travel packs in Duty-Free shops and other markets. There is a distinct difference between the two, possibly caused by the effect of maritime air on the barrels as they travel to hot and dusty India, where the angel is far more demanding-up to a 12% cut. Moreover, the water used is different. Sadly, this version is but a pale shadow of the Black Dog 12 YO of yesteryear. 

Whyte & Mackay use a different source of water, have different stills and can NEVER replicate Mackinlay's whiskies. That said, Johnny Walker Black Label started to use peated Caol Ila 12 YO, Talisker 12, along with Cardhu, Oban, Glenkinchie,  Dalwhinnie, Dailuaine, Linkwood, Clynelish and Cragganmore among others, changing the flavour profile markedly and elevating this brand to No.1 in the Blended Scotch 12 YO range, from which it was displaced in India by Chivas Regal, The Famous Grouse 12 YO, which was discontinued for a few years but is freely available now. Teacher's 50, Ballantine's 12 YO, Dewar's 12 YO and Buchanan's 12 YO are currently vying for top honours in this category. Grand Old Parr is not easily available in India. Incidentally, The Famous Grouse Malt Whisky is also a great 12 YO Blended Malt whisky.

                       New avatar of The Famous Grouse 12 YO Blended Scotch

                            

                                    The Famous Grouse 12 YO Blended Malt                                             

Black Dog Reserve Scotch Whisky

Black Dog 18 years old Scotch Whisky is known as Black Dog Reserve Scotch. It is matured for a minimum of 18 years in oak casks. Master blenders carefully put together a fine blend of Aged Malt and Grain Whiskies to make this an exceptional Scotch whisky. Black Dog Reserve Scotch won the Gold award at the MUNDUS Vini International Spirit Awards held in Germany in 2011. This is the third Gold award won by this 18-year-old Whisky, making it one of the top five of the world’s best-tasting 18-year-old blended Scotch whiskies. I can vouch for it, as it melts into your tongue like honey. It is as good as The Glen Ord Singleton 18 YO, which helps form the body of JW Blue Label, an NAS blend. 

Black Dog Quintessence Scotch Whisky

The Black Dog Quintessence is a 21-year-old blend. It is pure liquid gold as it is handcrafted to meticulous perfection by Black Dog’s master blenders. Only 25 of the finest single malts and grain whiskies have been drawn from the Highland region of Scotland, in particular from Speyside to provide that special key – “finesse”. Like a loving partnership, each individual part has made its own inimitable contribution. Balance and harmony prevail throughout this noble elegant spirit. After a long 20-year maturation in Bourbon barrels, the final year is spent in the finest Oloroso sherry butts. These aren't just any sherry butts; they are specially selected from Spain’s noblest Bodegas of Gonzalez Byass in Jerez de la Frontera; these Matusalem butts provide the perfect platform to marry and mould Black Dog 21 years old Blended Scotch Whisky.  This whisky has been sold out, more's the pity. I did manage to taste it at The Patio in 2013 and can still recall that dram.

The Black Dog Deluxe Gold Reserve 12 YO is available at most duty-free shops at close to US$ 37.00 per 750 CL. These are all Bottled In Scotland whiskies but are rapidly fading out. They are far too expensive. In the free market in India, The Black Dog Deluxe Gold Reserve 12 YO Bottled In India is readily available at the INR equivalent of US$ 16-22. The rush for this brand at this price by people who don't care where it was bottled is unbelievable. 

Black Dog's scorching growth contrasts with overall blended scotch sales coming under pressure globally for different reasons. In India, the red-tape festooned bureaucracy has barred the sale of imported Scotch whisky to just the Defence Forces for reasons unknown. The only other blended scotch brands to report five year double-digit growth are Black & White (19.8%), Old Parr (14.8%), Passport (13.7%) and VAT 69 (10%) among a list of the world's 50 top scotch brands compiled by International Wine & Spirit Research. 

Photo Credits: Kerman Moitra

References:

https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/business/india-business/Black-Dog-is-worlds-fastest-growing-scotch/articleshow/25669983.cms

https://www.howold.co/person/herbert-musgrave-phipson

https://www.liquisearch.com/herbert_musgrave_phipson

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Walter_Samuel_Millard

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herbert_Musgrave_Phipson

https://www.wikizero.com/en/Black_Dog_(whisky)

https://www.sommelierindia.com/usl_launches_black_dog_21_year/

https://www.facebook.com/loversblackdog/?__tn__=-UC*F

https://noelonwhisky.blogspot.com/2017/02/shackletons-scotch-monopoly.html

 https://familypedia.wikia.org/wiki/Huntingdon

https://www.diageoindia.com/brands/brand-profiles/black-dog-gold-reserve/

This is a reprint of my 2021 article at https://noelonwhisky.blogspot.com/2021/02/strange-changes-in-details-of-black-dog.html/

            

             

              

WHAT'S IN A NAME?

 WHISKEY VS WHISKY II

The Irish were known to have produced uisce beatha in the 12^th century. It is believed that Irish monks brought the technique of distilling perfumes back to Ireland from their travels to southern Europe around 1,000 AD. The Irish then modified this technique to obtain a drinkable spirituous potion. Irish monks were qualified distillers of the generic Aqua Vitae.

The first written records of aqua vitae in Ireland date back to 1324 and come from a medieval manuscript called the red book of Ossory written by the Bishop of Ossory, Richard Ledred, which shows Uisce Beatha being produced for consumption. More exceptionally, it contains a lengthy medical treatise on aqua vitae. The reasons for its inclusion in the register were more medicinal, perhaps in some way linked to the Black Death that ravaged Kilkenny in 1348 and which was supposed to have been exported by travellers from England. Nevertheless it does provide the earliest known recipe for distillation known to exist in any Irish manuscript and its content of is particular contemporary interest to Ireland’s whiskey industry.

England also suffered a series of the 'Black Death' plagues, starting 1348, having arrived by sea from its province of Gascony, part of south-eastern France, which country had been hit by itinerants along the trade routes across Europe from Asia. The disease ravaged England intermittently up to 1362 and every fifty years thereafter. The Irish monks went across to help and carried the art of distillation across the sea.

The next documented record of whiskey in Ireland was in 1405; The Annals of Clonmacnoise record an annotation that the head of a clan died after "taking a surfeit of aqua vitae" at Christmas. By 1556, whiskey was widespread, as an Act passed by the English Parliament declared whiskey to be "a drink nothing profitable to be drunken daily and used, is now universally throughout this realm made". Both spellings of whisky were used freely; it was by convention or prevailing practice, not law.

In 1608, King James I granted a licence to Sir Thomas Phillips, a landowner in County Antrim. He established the Old Bushmills Distillery. This distillery lays claim to being the oldest surviving grant of licence to distill in the world. In 1779, an Act was introduced by London, taxing distilleries on monthly output based on pure theory. It was assumed that a 500-gallon pot still would produce 33,075 gallons a month without exception. At that time, there were 1,228 registered distilleries in Ireland; however, by 1790, this number had fallen to 246, and by 1821, there were just 32 licensed distilleries in operation. This had the effect of concentrating licit distillation in a smaller number of distilleries based mainly in the larger urban centres, such as Cork and Dublin, which offered better markets for legal producers. Their liquor was called Parliament whiskey.

In the rural areas distillation became a more illicit activity, in particular in the northwest of Ireland where agricultural lands were poorer and poitín (illicit spirit) provided a supplemental source of income to the tenant farmers, an income which landlords were again slow to curtail as it would have weakened their abilities to pay rent. The scale of this illicit activity was such that one surveyor estimated that duty was paid on only 2% of the spirit consumed in the northwestern provinces of Ulster and Connaught, while Aeneas Coffey (an excise officer at the time, and later inventor of the Coffey Still) estimated that there were over 800 illicit stills in operation in Inishowen, County Donegal alone. By contrast, illicit distillation in Munster and Leinster was less extensive.

In the early 1800s, Ireland was at the forefront of whiskey production, supplying 60% of the world’s supply. As production methods and techniques evolved, and with the increased availability of steam power, larger and bigger pot stills became the norm, with the number of distilleries in Ireland growing from 40 in 1823, to 86 in 1840. Ireland was the largest spirit market in the United Kingdom, with demand for spirit exceeding that of more populous England and Scotland. Therefore, as capacities expanded, Ireland became the largest producer of spirits in the United Kingdom; and Dublin, then the largest market for spirits in Ireland, emerged as a major distilling centre. By 1823, Dublin boasted the five largest licensed distilleries in the country. At their peak, the distilleries in Dublin would grow to become the largest in the world, with a combined output of almost 10 million gallons per annum, the largest of which, Roe's Thomas Street Distillery, had an output exceeding 2 million gallons per annum, more than the total volume of whiskey produced in all of Speyside. By 1878, the reputation of Dublin whiskey was such that Distillers Company Ltd., a Scottish distilling firm, having built a distillery in Dublin, claimed that Dublin whiskey could sell for a 25% premium over other Irish whiskies, and that it had a demand five times that of Scotch at the time. Although these figures are probably inflated, they give an indication of the esteem in which Dublin whiskey was held, even by Scottish distillers. 

Roe's Thomas Street Distillery

During this period, the four largest Dublin distillingfirms, of John Jameson, William Jameson, John Powers and George Roe (all family-run, and collectively known as the ‘Big Four’) came to dominate the Irish distilling landscape. The chief output of these distilleries, known as single or ‘pure pot still’ whiskey, was made from a mix of malted and unmalted barley, and solely distilled in pot stills. The style, having initially emerged as a means of avoiding a 1785 tax on malt, endured although the tax had been later repealed. In fact, even by the late 1880s, only two of Ireland's then 28 existing distilleries were producing single malt whiskey, the rest steadfast in their devotion to ‘pure pot still’.

The main turning points was the patenting in 1832 of the Coffey still by Aeneas Coffey. The Coffey still, was a continuous distillation apparatus which offered an improvement on the traditional pot still. Although similar continuous stills had been proposed in the past, including by other Irish distillers themselves, the Coffey still was the most effective, and soon entered widespread use. Coffey stills removed some of the volatile components responsible for flavour and were used for distilling grain whisky virtually non-stop, with massive output capacity.

The adoption of the Coffey still in Scotland was indirectly assisted by Ireland's Great Famine of the 1840s, which led to the repealing of the Corn Laws, which between 1815 and 1846 had restricted the import of cheaper foreign grain into Britain and Ireland. After the laws were repealed in 1846, cheap American corn could be imported and used to produce neutral spirit at 94.8% ABV in Coffey stills. When distilled for drinking, the taste would depend on the mash bill used to distill the spirit and sold as grain whiskey.

Most of the high-strength spirit would find its way in industrial and medical use. Grain spirit, though weak in taste, could also be aimed at blending with traditional pot still derived spirit to produce a cheaper "blended whiskey". This blended whiskey, which was less intense in taste than pure pot still, was to prove popular in Britain, capturing much market share from Irish pure pot still whiskey. Such blending was finally permitted in bond under The Scotch Whisky Act of 1860 as amended in 1863.

Despite changing tastes and falling market share, the adoption of Coffey stills was stubbornly resisted by Irish distillers for many years, with some arguing for restrictions on their use. For instance, in 1878, the big Dublin distillers jointly published a pamphlet entitled Truths about Whisky, in which they referred to the output of Coffey stills as "Good, bad or indifferent; but it cannot be whiskey, and it ought not to be sold under that name". In 1904, almost seventy years after the Coffey still had been patented, the Senior Manager of Ireland's largest rural distillery, Allman's of Bandon, placed an outright ban on the introduction of Coffey stills at his distillery, in the face of opposition from a director.

In the period when Irish whiskey was at its zenith, it would have been difficult to imagine that Scotch, then produced by small-scale producers and almost unheard of outside of Scotland, would soon become the world's preeminent drink, while Irish whiskey, then the world's most popular whiskey, would enter a century of decline, culminating with all of Dublin's great distilleries shutting their doors. That said, the Scots were by far the most aggressive salesmen, with a ready market in English Colonies overseas.

Irish whiskey has a smoother finish as opposed to the smoky, earthy overtones common to Scotch whisky, which come largely from drying the malted barley using peat smoke. Peat is rarely used in the malting process outside of Scotland. There are notable exceptions to these rules in both countries. Examples include Connemara peated Irish malt whiskey from the Cooley Distillery in Cooley, County Louth; Pearse Whiskey from Pearse Lyons Distillery in Dublin; and Dunville's peated from Echlinville Distillery.

The Big Four, proud of their existing produce, scoffed at the use of the Coffey still, repeatedly questioning if its product, grain whiskey, which they termed neutral or silent (i.e. tasteless) spirit, could even be termed whiskey. Their distilleries were among the most advanced in the world. The distillers were simply steadfast in the belief that their existing methods yielded a superior whiskey. For instance, John Jameson carried out a trial of a Coffey still at his distillery, but chose to not adopt the technology because he was not satisfied with the quality of product it produced. Therefore, in the face of opposition in Ireland, Coffey offered his still to the English gin and Scottish whiskey distillers, who proved more receptive, and where the technology gained widespread use.

The Big Four demanded that their spirit be called whiskey and the shoddy diluted blended whisky of Scotland be called whisky. When they saw the impending decline of their output’s sales in the face of rapidly increasing popularity of Scotch whisky, they changed their demand and asked that their spirits be called whisky and that the other spirits similar in nature be termed whiskey. A Royal Commission was set up in 1908 to decide the issue, among others. Over three years, this Commission found no cause for concern, given the drop in sales of Irish the product and permitted the Scots to call their products either whisky or whiskey as they chose and the Irish could then use the other. The Irish then got their original demand accepted, but not without rancour. It was only in 1960 that the Irish adopted the term whiskey.

The Old Midleton Distillery in which the Jameson Experience is located began life as a woollen mill in Midleton, County Cork, Ireland, set over 15 acres before being converted to a military barracks and subsequently a distillery in 1825 by Murphy Brothers. The Murphys invested a considerable sum in establishing a large distillery, which was to become known as James Murphy and Company. A large undershot timber water wheel was installed to help power the distillery (which was replaced in 1852, by an iron water wheel which survives on-site to this day. In addition, a mammoth 31,618 gallon pot still was constructed at the distillery which remains the largest ever built. The pot still was so large, that it needed to be assembled on-site with the distillery built around it. The distillery operated until 1975, when a new distillery was constructed alongside it to house the consolidated operations of three former whiskey-making rivals, John Jameson & Son, John Powers & Son, and Cork Distilleries Company (owners of the Midlelton Distillery), who had come together to form Irish Distillers in 1966.

THE MIDLETON POTSTILL

Difference From Scotch Whisky:

(i) Irish whiskey is made from grains, water, and yeast.  The key grains are barley (malted and unmalted) and corn. The use of unmalted barley is one of the main differences between Irish whiskey and Scotch production.  Unmalted barley contributes a nutty and oily characteristics, and is used only in the production of Irish Pot Still Whiskey. Peat was not used in the kilning process, though a few current day whiskeys do use a small portion of peat.

(ii) Whiskey produced by batch distillation can be either double or triple distilled. Double distillation in similar to the process used to produce Scotch whisky. Triple pot distillation is closely associated with Ireland although it’s not a legal requirement.  The extra distillation produces a more rectified and hence a lighter style of spirit.  Distillers usually adopt other methods such as the use of multiple mash bills, and different cuts (heads and tails) to create a variety of styles.

(iii) For distilleries like Roe & Co  where triple distillation is carried out, the (low wines) from the wash still (Vision) are transferred onto a second still sometimes known as the intermediate still or feints still (Virtue). The still is heated and as in the wash still, the vapours start to rise, but this time, as the vapours are condensed back into a liquid, the distiller will separate or cut the liquid into 3 parts. The first of these is known as the heads, this liquid is collected and will be redistilled on the next run. The next portion is known as the heart or centre cut and this will be the liquid that will go onto the spirit still. Finally, the third cut is the tails, also to be redistilled on the next run.  Spirit still (Valour) distillation is much the same as the intermediate still distillation where the liquid is broken into three portions or cuts, heads/fore shots, heart/centre and the tails. The heart section is the portion that will make whiskey, the liquid is known as new make spirit and has an ABV of approximately 80-86%. Before being filled into casks, the strength of this liquid is reduced to approximately 63.5%.

Types of Irish Whiskey

There are four different varieties of Irish whiskey:

(i) Pot Still Irish Whiskey

A combination of unpeated malted barley (min. 30%) and unmalted barley (min. 30%) with other unmalted cereals (e.g. corn) distilled in pot stills twice or three times.

(ii) Irish Malt Whiskey

Produced using 100% malted barley and distilled in pot stills twice or three times.

(iii) Irish Grain Whiskey

Produced from malted barley (max. 30%), unmalted barley and other unmalted cereals including corn and wheat; distilled in column stills.

(iv) Blended Irish Whiskey

Blend of two or more different whiskey types in any combination (Irish Pot Whiskey, Irish Malt Whiskey or Irish Grain Whiskey).