GLENMORANGIE'S NEW ADDITIONS
THE CADBOLL ESTATE LEADS THE PACK WITH A 2019 TRAVEL EDITION
Most Scotch whisky is made from ingredients that seem mass
produced and fetched into the distillery. It’s inside where the wizard does his magic. There’s
undeniably a bit of artistry and craftsmanship that goes into the process,
transforming those raw ingredients into the spirit that will eventually grace
the shelf… but there’s also something to be said for a whisky that is 100%
local, with grains and water from the distillery itself. And that’s exactly
what the Cadboll Estate is for Glenmorangie:a 100% locally-produced expression
from their own facility.
Like most distilleries in Great Britain, the Glenmorangie
distillery halted production between 1931 > 1936 and between 1941 > 1945,
but was back to full capacity by 1948. Within just a couple of years, the
demand had dramatically increased and in 1977 the distillery doubled its
capacity from two stills to four, and doubled again in 1990 to a total of
eight. In the 1980s, the distillery purchased 600 acres of land surrounding the
facility to preserve their water supply.
Throughout all this history, the Macdonald family had
retained ownership of the distillery; but in 2004, the French spirits company LVMH
Moët Hennessy – Louis Vuitton SE purchased the distillery outright. Until this
point, the company had focussed on their flagship spirit, but the new owners
brought redesigned curved bottles and the desire to experiment with different
flavours and barrels for aging their spirit.
Glenmorangie has been the best selling single malt in
Scotland since 1983, and globally they hold 6% of the total single malt whisky
market.
Glenmorangie’s Cadboll Estate Scotch whisky is about as local
as you can get. What makes it so unique is that this expression uses only
barley that is grown and harvested from Glenmorangie’s own estate farms, which
are malted and cooked using water from the local Tarlogie spring that runs
through the nearby hills.
After fermentation, the wort and then the wash is distilled
in the tallest pot stills in Scotland. Standing at a towering 26 feet high,
there are two reasons why this is important: first, the height ensures that
only the lighter (and sweeter) compounds make it over the top and into the
collection barrels. Second, the added journey also exposes those vapours to the
copper in the still for a longer period of time which (through a chemical
reaction with the copper) strips out more of the offensive sulphur compounds.
For the maturation process, Glenmorangie actually has a
unique arrangement to source their barrels. Famous distilleries like Jack
Daniels and Heaven Hill don’t actually buy their barrels — they simply lease
them from Glenmorangie. The charred oak barrels are used to mature American
bourbon for a period of a few years before being shipped over to Scotland for
the real reason they were built. The barrels are filled with a neutral grain
spirit for a few years to mellow out the flavours and extract some of the
American bourbon from the wood, and once that process is complete, the barrels
are filled with Glenmorangie’s whisky and allowed to finally start the ageing
process.
PACKAGING
The bottle is tall and slender —taller than most other whiskies,
much like the unique stills. The bottle has a flared base with an inwardly
curved waist that flares again at the shoulder. From there, it’s a gentle slope
up to the long neck, and the whole thing is capped with a plastic and cork
stopper.
While the label is rather large, it thankfully isn’t that
distracting. The royal blue colour of the label beautifully pairs with the
golden spirit within, almost giving it the appearance of a French aristocrat.
On that label is the bare essentials of information, and the shiny
embellishment on the edges and in the design in the middle of the label is
tastefully accomplished.
While I appreciate the size of the bottle, and the purpose
that it serves (standing out on a bar or store shelf), it makes placement a
touch difficult. It’s about the same size as a normal wine bottle instead of
the typically shorter and stouter whisky containers — so getting it in and out
of its spot in the whisky cabinet can be a struggle.
In general, Glenmorangie tends to be a bit richer in colour
than other similar spirits. In this case, that warm gold colour is
definitely on full display. E150a is certainly used in this chill-filtered 43% ABV edition.
The aroma coming off the glass is definitely on the lighter
side of the spectrum, without any peat smoke or much heavy ageing going on.
There is some honey and flower blossom right up front, a bit of fresh melon,
and some oatmeal-like cereal with brown sugar in the background. One
gets some nutmeg spice that adds a good bit of depth and texture.
Taking a sip, the first thing I notice is something that
wasn’t really there in the aroma: lemon citrus. Specifically lemon zest — that
aromatic and bright flavour you get in the peel. That flavour develops and
incorporates some of the other components we saw before, like the honey, flower
blossoms, melon, oatmeal, and brown sugar. That nutmeg we saw earlier has also
expanded a bit, adding in some cinnamon and other baking spices to make this
almost like a spiced sugar cookie by the end.
A light and floral spirit with delicate flavour components
won’t stand up to some ice. The cold and the dilution usually only leave the
richer and darker aspects behind, and with a nicely balanced spirit like this
that can often be a bit of a problem. Ice is a no-no.
This is a spirit where the context makes all of the
difference. Glenmorangie makes some amazing stuff for their standard line of Scotch;
there are some additional tricks and twists in this bottle compared to their
normal fare, but not enough to warrant the price tag of £85 on its own.
THE SECOND
EDITION
The whisky follows in the footsteps of its predecessor insofar as its materiel is concerned. But it is no longer an NAS bottling. It is
matured for 15 years (or more) in the most common cask type used in Scotland,
ex-bourbon barrels. No finishes, chill-filtered, no peat, no twists of any kind
really, as it is bottled at pretty average 43% ABV. Thus, Cadboll Estate Single
Malt 2nd Edition is a very straightforward presentation of The
Glenmorangie’s own barley, made into whisky.
This particular release is Batch 2 ex-2020 and only available
in North America and Mexico. If you’re familiar with the original Traveller
Release Cadboll don’t draw any immediate comparisons, they’re quite different
whiskies.
The global travel retail version was a combination of
ex-Bourbon and ex-Wine (Muscat and Sémillion) casks and drew its name from the
Cadboll cup, a precious 16th century silver wine cup owned by the MacLeods of Cadboll, who created Glenmorangie House. This enigmatic wine cup, which entwines Scottish artistry and mysterious French influences in its design, was treasured for generations at its Highland home. That shared heritage is celebrated in a whisky of tempting, dessert-like flavours, which wonderfully hint at the sweet wines of the past that the Cadboll Cup might once have held. I was able to try the NAS GTR version at a special
tasting so I could compare this with my notes on Batch 2 despite them being so
different.
The Scotch
A pour of this Glenmorangie has a colour straddling the
border between gold and copper. The scent is sweet with licorice laid into a
tall glass of orange cream and vanilla soda, enjoyed in a field of late summer,
cut and dried straw awaiting baling. A sip reveals a creamy mouthfeel, and a
flavour profile that builds on the nose by adding a note of sweet, wet tobacco
leaf and sees the citrus fruit transition to pear syrup. Those sweet aspects
fade away altogether, with the dry straw evolving into dry, spicy wood on the
finish.
The Tasting Notes
Colour: Light honey
Nose: Honey, malt, vanilla cake, orchard fruit, banana
pudding, caramel, Nilla Wafers and a touch of nuts and nutmeg. That is one heck
of a nice aroma. Warm and inviting, I could sniff it for hours.
Palate: Vanilla cake, banana pudding, nutmeg, honey graham,
dried fruit, roasted nuts, light baking spice, malt and frosting sweetness. The
aroma was nice, but the palate is the STAR. This is quite delicious.
Finish: Medium. Banana pudding, honey graham and spice
fade evenly.
Balance, Body and Feel: Great balance, med-full body and a
lightly oily warm feel. The GTR and this 15 YO Cadboll are very different
whiskies, but since they share the same name, I feel the need to say I’d pick
this over the GTR any day. This is good.
THE THIRD
EDITION
Aged for 15 years, the third batch of Glenmorangie The
Cadboll Estate brings a nutty and spicy twist to the series’ award-winning
flavour.
Each release in the series begins in the Distillery’s own
barley fields located on the Cadboll Estate, planted and harvested to Dr Lumsden’s
specifications. This Cadboll barley is then mashed and distilled in the
towering copper stills (as tall as an adult giraffe to allow for a more elegant
taste and aroma), to bring forth a uniquely delicious spirit.
With notes of nuts and sweet spice in mind, Dr Bill selected
spirit created from two separate barley harvests and aged it in American oak
bourbon casks to enhance those creamy depths. Then, picturing notes of
hazelnut, toffee and clove, he finished a small portion in casks which once
held Amontillado, his favourite style of sherry. After 15 years, Dr Bill
reunited these whiskies in this series’ delicious third batch release;
threading hints of toffee and spice around honeysuckle, peaches and cream.
The third batch release of Glenmorangie The Cadboll Estate
has been aged in bourbon casks, with a portion finished in Amontillado sherry
casks (Dr Bill Lumsden’s favourite type of sherry). This 15-year-old whisky entwines notes of
hazelnut, toffee and clove, bringing a nutty, spicy twist to the series’
signature creaminess.
The Tasting Notes
Colour: Deep Ochre
Nose: Wonderfully aromatic and fragrant, with touches of
honey, hazelnuts, mandarin oranges and soft, sweet toffee. This is then
followed by top notes of sweet ripening barley, followed by baked peaches. A
splash of water releases some flinty minerality, along with honeysuckle and
jasmine flowers.
Palate: A gently spicy mouthfeel leads into a burst of sweet
and spicy flavours –heather honey, gingerbread, hazelnut praline, fudge, toffee
and a touch of clove. The Amontillado cask derived nuttiness is always present,
but always gently integrated into the other, sweeter flavours. The lingering
aftertaste has touches of almond marzipan and coconut, and finally a suggestion
of baking fruit loaves.
Finish: Gloriously creamy and spicy, with notes of
gingerbread, hazelnuts and toffee.
GLENMORANGIE’S
BRAND MASCOT
Glenmorangie are proud supporters of the Giraffe Conservation
Foundation (GCF) and its mission to secure a future for all giraffe populations
in the wild.
Creators of single malt whisky since 1843, Glenmorangie’s
affinity with the giraffe begins with the copper stills in which it creates its
light yet complex spirit. The tallest in Scotland, these stills have necks the
same height as an adult male giraffe, which has led to this majestic creature
being adopted as a symbol of the brand. By supporting giraffe conservation, the
Highland Distillery is deepening its commitment to the animal’s future.
The giraffe has long been a beloved symbol of the Highland
Distillery. The same height as a giraffe, their stills allow more space for
taste and aroma, which is why Glenmorangie’s spirit is so wonderfully delicate
and fruity. But the giraffe faces threats in the wild, from habitat loss to
poaching. Numbers have fallen by over 30% in just 35 years, with some
populations classed as critically endangered. Recognising that few people are
aware how great a threat the gorgeous giraffe faces in the wild, Glenmorangie
forged a pioneering conservation partnership in 2020 with the Giraffe
Conservation Foundation (GCF) and the Royal Zoological Society of Scotland
(RZSS).
The new Glenmorangie Cadboll Estate release is freely available
in the UK for an RRP of £75. Sadly, this release is also chill filtered and
bottled at 43% ABV. That said, Glenmorangie celebrates the joy of delicious
single malt in every part of its universe, from its boutique hotel Glenmorangie
House to its colourful brand campaign and its tagline “It’s Kind of Delicious
and Wonderful.”
About The Cadboll Estate Series
This unique series of field-to-glass whiskies was created to
share the spirit and flavour of Glenmorangie’s ruggedly beautiful, yet remote
homeland with whisky lovers old and new. It began with the first release of
Glenmorangie The Cadboll Estate in 2020, a deep and creamy single malt
distilled in 2004 and aged in first-fill American white oak bourbon casks. The second
release was named Best Single Malt 15 Year Old at the International Whisky
Competition (IWC) in 2021 and won a double gold medal at the San Francisco
World Spirits Competition (SFWSC), and gold at the International Spirits
Challenge (ISC) that year. The silky richness of the second batch, distilled in
2005, wonderfully reflected the subtle changes each year brings to the
Highlands. The nutty, spicy and creamy notes of the third batch are a
deliciously sherried take on the series’ style. What’s more, Dr Lumsden is
already dreaming up further whiskies for the single-estate series. So whisky
fans can look forward to enjoying further delicious tastes of Glenmorangie’s
home, even if they are yet to explore the Highlands in person.
AND THEN
THE NEW ONES
X By Glenmorangie:
In pursuit of new flavour
combinations, Lumsden has crafted the perfect single malt whisky for mixing.
Paired with your favourite mixer, X by Glenmorangie creates effortlessly
delicious drinks.
X by Glenmorangie is
notable for two reasons: it was purpose-built for mixing and is a core release
from a major distillery priced under $30… Really? That seems like a deal too
good to be true in this insanely priced whisky market we’re in. Makes one a bit
wary. Can something priced like this taste good? Can it actually be a good
deal?
The X’s raison d’etre is
to be mixed and one can say it easily fulfills that purpose. Under that
singular perspective of being built for mixing, the price is perfect and it
really is a good mixing whisky. But this isn’t truly a cocktail site, it’s a
whisky site, and so we need to look at just the liquid itself. Which brings us
to a different, singular perspective, with one major question: how is it for
sipping?
Colour: Honeyed
butterscotch
Nose: Malt, graham,
vanilla and citrus with bits of sweet dried fruit, banana and oak. Soft and
simple, it’s a whisky that’s easy and unassuming, but not bad.
Palate: Graham, vanilla
frosting, dried apples, bananas, honey and a bit of oak. As it opens a touch of
cocoa and nuttiness peeks out, but it’s mostly just dried fruit on graham.
Finish: Short. Malty and
fruity fade to a light graham.
Balance, Body And Feel: Decent
balance, light-body, light watery feel.
Overall: If you’ve been
looking for the most average yet approachable and sippable whisky on the
market, this is it. It’s not complex, it’s not deep, but it doesn’t have
anything inherently wrong with it either. It’s simple yet pleasant.
In fact, sipping isn’t its
true nature. The X by Glenmorangie was designed for mixing… It’s a good,
average, workhorse whisky that’s inoffensive and sippable – exactly as it was
designed to be.
A Tale Of The Forest:
Using an ancient method of
infusing barley with woodland botanicals. Lush and invitingly herbaceous, A
Tale of the Forest is Glenmorangie’s first whisky crafted from barley kilned
with woodland botanicals.
Inspired by the ever
changing natural wonder one encounters while wandering in the forest, Dr Lumsden
brought back an ancient method of kilning barley with botanicals. In this case,
he chose juniper berries, birch bark and heather flowers.
Evoking the scents, sounds
and sights of the forest, the single malt surrounds your senses with aromas of
pine, juniper and coriander, laced with wisps of smoke. Then tastes of
deep-green eucalyptus, lit by rays of bitter orange, drift to a slow, gently oaky
finish.
The whisky’s fragrant,
wooded depths have inspired illustrator Pomme Chan to dream up her own
fantastical forest. Celebrating the whisky’s flavours, her artwork is showcased
on the whisky’s pack.
Tasting Notes:
Colour: Gold
Nose: A bouquet of pine,
juniper and coriander, along with roasted chestnut and an intriguing whisper of
smoke.
Palate: Flavour explodes
in the mouth. Whirls of peppermint. Bursts of eucalyptus. Rustles of bitter
orange. All floating on clouds of vanilla with intriguing hints of black
liquorice.
Finish: A slow and
luscious finish featuring lemon, orange and a soft hint of oak.
Glenmorangie Palo Cortado:
This deeply sweet and
nutty small-batch release is the first Glenmorangie ever to be finished in rare
Palo Cortado sherry casks. Aged for 12 years, it brings a new elegance to the
Highland Distillery’s delicate style.
The single malt spent its
first eight years mellowing in American white oak bourbon casks. Then,
delighted by that whisky’s smooth, soft character, Dr Bill was inspired to
finish a select batch in Palo Cortado casks, never before used at Glenmorangie.
Palo Cortado is the rarest
variety of sherry, created purely by chance, when the protective ‘flor’ yeast
does not form on sherry intended to become Amontillado. Enchanted by Palo Cortado’s sweet and nutty flavours,
Dr Dr Lumsden sourced a handful of its casks, which are incredibly hard to come
by. He filled them with the whisky, imagining the unparalleled depth and
complexity they might bring Glenmorangie. Finished in these deliciously
wonderful casks, Dr Lumsden’s creation developed all the rich elegance he had
dreamed of.
Uniquely complex and
nutty, it layers dark plum depths with milk-chocolate richness, Brazil nuts and
sweet spice.
Aged 12 YO (first matured
in Bourbon casks then finished 4 years in Palo Cortado Sherry Casks), it is
different from the core range, which spend ten years in Bourbon casks.
Tasting Notes
Colour: Burnt Amber
Nose: Rich, elegant and
rounded. Toffee, fudge and vanilla sweetness entwine with mossy notes and
mulled wine hints. Then come scents of honeyed ginger and milk-chocolate
truffle dusted with cinnamon. A splash of water reveals notes of orange
sherbet, carnations and Brazil nuts.
Palate: An oily yet
peppery texture leads to a burst of rich, sweet flavours. Treacle toffee and
milk chocolate are threaded with notes of clove, ginger, cinnamon and nutmeg.
Meanwhile, fruity undertones of raisins, dark plums and bitter orange find
delectable balance with baking ryebread and salted nuts.
Finish: Long and nutty,
brimming with spice, leather and a touch of aniseed.
Glenmorangie Amontillado
Finish:
Gone down South! A
long-time fan of Amontillado sherry, Dr Lumsden has always fancied its nuttier,
spicier style in a bottle. Years ago, he began to imagine a unique, delicious
whisky, which would entwine its casks’ distinctive flavours through the
Distillery’s gentle, honeyed style. But since such casks are hard to come by,
opportunities are few and far between.
Eventually, Dr Lumsden
sourced a precious handful of Amontillado casks. Then he filled them with a
soft, mellow whisky which had spent eight years in American white oak bourbon barrels.
Transferring it into the Amontillado casks, he left it to age for another four
years, until it achieved the flavours he desired. Finished in this way, the
whisky winds sherried hints of cashews, clove, ginger and dried fruit round
Glenmorangie’s classic notes of peaches, orange and lemon balsam.
Dr Lumsden hand-selected
the finest of those precious casks to be bottled for the Distillery’s Barrel
Select Release. It was a delight to bring the nuttier, spicier tastes of
Amontillado as its casks’ sherried influences to their whisky’s signature
delicate style for this special release. This version was not chill-filtered and
presented at a healthy 46% ABV.
Sadly, it was crafted for
The Whisky Club, Australia with very limited availability via Glenmorangie’s
online shop, shipping to the UK only, and at the Distillery Visitor Centre shop
in Tain.
The Tasting Notes
Colour: Bright Amber.
Nose: Scents of rose,
carnation and jasmine entwine with fragrant candle wax and hints of cashew
nuts. A splash of water releases Amontillado's classic dried fruit notes,
followed by peaches in syrup.
Palate: A soft and
mouthcoating texture is wonderfully balanced by effervescent and spicy notes.
Clove and ginger find harmony with Glenmorangie's signature citrus tastes of
orange sherbet, lemon balsam and eucalyptus oil, with undertones of walnut oil
and leather.
Finish: Slow and
lingering, with notes of honey and aniseed.
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