SINGLE AND MULTIPLE CASKED WHISKIES
There comes a point in every whisky drinker’s journey
when they realise that single malt whisky isn’t necessarily drawn directly from
cask to bottle. The word ‘single’ can be somewhat misleading here, as single
malt can, and often does, come from a variety of casks. The term ‘single malt’
instead refers to a whisky that is produced by a single distillery using a
single malted grain (in Scotch whisky-making, this grain must be barley and the
whisky must be distilled using a pot still). This is not to say a blend of casks can’t make an exceptional
single malt. They can, and they do! Blending between casks allows whisky
producers to create balance, establish character and maintain consistency in
the whiskies we know and love.
That said, there is something romantic about the single cask – whisky drawn straight from one individual cask. Releases are almost always bottled at cask strength and free from caramel colouring or chill-filtration. This is whisky in its most authentic form; untouched, elemental and pure. No two single-cask whiskies are the same, and they are intended to take on the unique flavour of their individual casks.
One of the most magical elements of the whisky-making
process is undoubtedly cask maturation – experts believe that as much as 80 per
cent of a whisky’s flavour may come from the very wood it was aged in. This post is a follow-up to an earlier post on the same subject, with a slightly different tilt. The cask
is an intrinsic part of whisky creation, but how did it come to be?
HISTORY OF THE CASK
Whisky was officially documented for the first time in
Scotland in the late fifteenth century, although wooden barrels were not part
of the story at this point. Up until the 1800s, whisky tended to be drunk
fresh from the still, or smuggled throughout the country in everything and
anything distillers could get their hands on.
It wasn’t until the early nineteenth century when the UK began importing larger quantities of port and sherry from across the Channel, that barrels became a common fixture in the whisky-making process. Shipped to the UK in casks and bottled at the port, a surplus of empty wine barrels was then available for thrifty distillers to store and transport their whisky in.
The oak barrels were praised for being water-tight and easily stackable; however, it was quickly discovered that the sweet wines previously held within these casks helped to mellow the spirit and improve its flavour. Influenced even further by the length of time spent in the cask, it wasn’t long before cask ageing became an essential component of making the whisky we pour into our glass today. In fact, today’s laws require the spirit to spend three years in a cask before it can even be legally called Scotch whisky.
INDIVIDUAL CHARACTER
Due to an almost infinite combination of factors – from
a cask’s original contents to the unique character of its wood, to the
temperature of the warehouse it is laid in – the components of a single cask
come together to create something totally unique; a dram that is truly
inimitable.
By their very nature, single casks produce a liquid that
is extremely limited. Even the largest casks will only yield around 500 bottles,
depending on what proof the whisky is bottled at or how much liquid is lost to
evaporation- the angels’ share. Bottles are often individually
numbered, and labels show the specific cask details; the holy grail of whisky
transparency!
Sought-after for their exclusivity, single casks are
also alluring thanks to their ability to showcase a side of a distillery that
drinkers may otherwise not get the chance to explore. Focus on the flavours
from an individual cask and less intervention from the whisky makers mean the
end result is likely to taste different to the distillery’s classic single
malt, giving drinkers the opportunity to try something ‘off the beaten path’
from their favourite brands.
A Single, Double or Triple cask whisky simply refers to
the number of casks that a whisky has been matured in. It should be noted that
this definition operates under different names- single/double/triple wood or
barrel are also used interchangeably, and double and triple cask whiskies are
often referred to as ‘finished’ whiskies.
An example of single-cask whisky is a whisky that has
been aged in one cask for a set period of time before being bottled- the whisky
remains at cask strength and is not filtered- in other words it is not
interfered with and goes straight from cask to bottle. A double-cask whisky is
a whisky that has first matured in one cask before being transferred into
another cask to finish maturing. A triple-cask whisky is one which has matured in three casks before bottling.
However, whilst these definitions seem quite simple-
and are widely accepted as the true definitions of single, double and triple
cask, due to loose legal regulations, some whiskies are bottled as
single/double/triple cask under different circumstances.
For example, it is acceptable for whisky to be
advertised as a single cask even if it has been matured in two barrels if the
second barrel is of the same barrel type as the first. This is also the case if
whiskies matured in the same barrel type are combined in a larger
barrel before bottling.
Single-Cask Whiskies: A Single Cask Whisky is
traditionally defined as a whisky that has been entirely matured and taken from
a single cask. The term ‘single’ is in reference to the distillery the whisky
was created at- all the whisky must be distilled in the same distillery. Once
in the barrels, the whisky can be matured anywhere, although it must stay in
Scotland to be considered Scotch!
They are a unique snapshot of a distillery’s output,
from a single distillation, and matured in a single cask. Every single cask is
a singular expression that will differ in style and character from standard
distillery bottlings. A typical cask will yield between 150 and 600 bottles,
depending on the size of the cask, and the age of the Whisky. They are highly
sought after by Whisky enthusiasts, and when they are gone, they are gone...
Are Single Cask Whiskies Better Than Other Whiskies?
Some may question why single-cask whiskies tend to be
more expensive than other whiskies- are they better? Not necessarily.
There are a few reasons why single-cask whiskies can be
more expensive- most stemming from the limited quantity of each single-cask
whisky. Casks can typically produce anywhere between 180- 600 bottles each,
making the whisky inside a limited commodity. This makes them an attractive
purchase for enthusiasts and collectors who value them for their rarity and
total uniqueness. Additionally, whilst it is not a rule, single-cask whiskies
are often bottled at cask strength (so have a higher alcohol content) and they
are not chill-filtered or given added caramel colour E150A.
SINGLE MALT WHISKY V SINGLE CASK WHISKY
What is the difference between Single Cask Whisky and
Single Malt Whisky?
As mentioned previously, a single-cask whisky is a
whisky distilled in a single distillery that is matured in just one cask.
Single Malt Whisky is a blend of malt whiskies produced at a single
distillery from 100% malted barley. The difference between the two is that
single malt is a blend of different casks from the same distillery, whereas the
single cask is from only one cask.
DOUBLE CASK WHISKY
A double-cask whisky is one which has been matured in
one cask, before being transferred into a different cask. A
‘double cask whisky’ can also refer to two whiskies from different origin
barrels being vatted together in the same barrel before being bottled.
Often the process of maturing the whisky in a second
cask is called ‘finishing’ and can take months to years.
Many master distillers choose to finish their whisky in
a cask which once held a fortified wine. This is because they can impart sweetness, fruitiness and richness to the whisky- and in some cases a nutty or
saltiness- that cannot be obtained from maturation only in American oak
casks.
TRIPLE CASK WHISKY
Triple Cask Whisky is whisky aged in three different
cask types during the ageing process. This could be a whisky which is matured in
one cask then transferred to a second and then to a third, or it could be three
whiskies matured in different cask types that are transferred and combined in a
fourth, bigger barrel.
The idea behind double and triple-casking whisky is to
add layers of flavour to the spirit, and there is, therefore, a more expansive combination
of flavours that are available for a triple-cask whisky to have.
Triple-cask whiskies are rare in the whisky world, it
is hard enough to balance the flavours when double-casking whisky let alone
triple- so are they good? When Distillery Managers are asked to elaborate on
triple-cask whiskies, most will say, "Anything that adds variety and excitement to the category should be welcomed."
GENERAL PROPERTIES OF EACH TYPE
Tasting Notes
Colour: Single-cask is typically deep gold in colour; a double-cask is usually golden amber in colour, while a triple-cask has a yellow-gold colour.
Nose: Single-cask smells more alcohol than double-cask and triple-cask. The nose of the double-cask is fruity, while the triple-cask is a blend of different scents (due to the combination of barrels).
Palate: Triple-cask features layers of flavours, usually with notes of butterscotch and vanilla, while double-cask balances sweetness and fruitiness.
Finish: All single, double, and triple cask whiskies can provide a lasting finish, but the triple-cask is more on the complex and warm side.
The single-cask may well be relatively harsh (for some) due to its high ABV, while the double-cask has some fruitiness and the triple-cask some flavours.
CASK FINISHING
Cask Finishing is when a whisky is transferred from its
first cask to a second or third for extra maturation. Typically, this secondary
maturation will be done in a cask that once housed a fortified wine- such as
Port, Sherry, or Madeira.
It takes an expert to keep the whisky balanced whilst retaining its ‘whiskiness’ during the ageing process, and the timing of how long a whisky is aged in each cask is key. The technique is largely based on trial and error with possibly a little luck! It is safe to say that when done right, cask finishing can produce some really excellent drams.
SOME SINGLE-CASK WHISKIES ON OFFER
GLEN MORAY
Soft and fruity are the keywords when talking of Glen
Moray which makes it a very amenable partner with American oak. Light and smooth
as well, their products are a great introduction to the world of single malt
Scotch whisky, encapsulating the flavours for which Glen Moray and indeed
Speyside itself is loved for around the world. Approachable and easy drinking,
matured entirely in American oak casks, their products open the door to
discovering the rest of Glen Moray's whiskies.
It is believed that the closeness of the river and the
high water table produces a slightly warmer and more humid microclimate which
assists maturation. Since the La Martiniquaise takeover a higher percentage of
first-fill American oak is used, adding more buttery notes to the mix. It was
one of the first whiskies to be ‘finished’ in wine casks – Chenin Blanc and
Chardonnay specifically – as well as Port. After a few quiet years, new
releases are beginning to appear. Some peated malt is now being run as well.
Although now in the midst of housing, Glen Moray
originally sat out with Elgin’s boundaries and started life as a brewery, taking its water and power from the
fast-flowing River Lossie alongside.
Like many, this 1897 distillery fell victim to the slump
which took place at the start of the 20th century and closed in 1910, being
snapped up in 1923 by Macdonald & Muir, owners of Glenmorangie. With snazzy
Glenmorangie, Glen Moray became the firm’s ‘budget’ malt with a price often the
same as standard blends. While sales rose, there was little profit made and the
distillery’s image was badly damaged.
In 2008, it was sold to French distilling firm La
Martiniquaise, predominantly for fillings for its Label Five and Glen Turner
brands. Capacity has since been increased by 40% with new washbacks and another
pair of stills being installed.
THE OLD MALT CASK
Speyside Single Cask #17592 Ex-Bourbon
|
|
|
Description |
Single Cask |
|
Vintage |
2007 |
|
Year Bottled |
2022 |
|
Age |
15 year old |
|
Alcohol ABV |
50 % |
|
Cask Strength |
Yes |
|
Cask Wood |
Oak |
|
Cask Number |
17592 |
|
Single Cask |
Yes |
|
No Bottled |
214 |
|
Packaging |
Cardboard Tube |
|
Bottler |
Hunter Laing |
|
Country Origin |
Scotland |
|
Stopper |
Cork |
|
Bottle Type |
Standard |
|
Bottle Size |
70cl |
|
Neck Level |
Full Level |
|
HTFW Cat. No. |
LP16339 |
|
Vintage |
2007 |
Product Description
This single-cask maturation was distilled at Glen Moray
in January 2007. It was bottled in February 2022, for a total ageing of 15
years. This bottle is one of 214 produced from this vatting.
Nose: Sweet, floral and buttery - notes of caramel and
vanilla.
Palate: Summer fruits, vanilla yoghurt and orange
blossom.
Finish: Sweet and satisfying with a touch of toasted
malt.
ARRAN
Island Single Malt 1998 24-Year-Old Whisky
Although the Arran distillery is relatively new, with production
starting in 1995, the island in the Firth of Clyde has a long history of
whisky-making. A hotbed for smuggled whisky, Arran had excellent links to
Glasgow. Bottling started with a limited edition three-year-old in 1998 and the
range has continued to expand, although today there are fewer ‘finished’
variants than in the past.
Once buzzing with over 50 whisky distilleries, until
recently the island of Arran was home to only one, which claims its water,
sourced from Loch Na Davie, is the purest in Scotland.
As an island whisky, it might be thought that Arran
would always have been peaty. Instead, it started life as a non-smoky
‘Highland-style' malt. Like any new build distillery, the equipment is in an
easily managed single-tier space with a small semi-lauter mash tun, wooden washbacks
and two pairs of small stills.
The character shows light cereal crunchiness behind a
distinctly citric note. Arran has also shown that this distillate, allied to a
quality-focussed wood policy, has given single malt that is capable of extended
ageing. These days, peated malt is also being run.
THE OLD MALT CASK
DISTILLERY |
ARRAN |
|
Description |
Single
Malt |
|
Vintage |
1998 |
|
Age |
24 year old |
|
Alcohol ABV |
54.7 % |
|
Cask Strength |
Yes |
|
Cask Wood Type |
Oak |
|
Cask Number |
19620 |
|
Single Cask |
Yes |
|
Number Bottled |
243 |
|
Packaging |
Cardboard Tube |
|
Bottler |
Hunter Laing |
|
Country of Origin |
Scotland |
|
Stopper |
Cork |
|
Bottle Type |
Standard |
|
Bottle Size |
70cl |
|
Neck Level |
Full Level |
|
HTFW Cat. No. |
LP17159 |
A 1998 Arran single malt from independent bottler Hunter Laing that was matured in a refill hogshead for 24 years, before being bottled in July 2022 at 54.7% ABV as part of its Old Malt Cask series. Aromas of garden herbs, ripe fruit, dried tea and warm spice fill the nose, complemented by notes of stewed berries, cherry cola, cinnamon, liquorice, vanilla and oak spice throughout the palate. Gloriously well-matured single malt Scotch whisky from the Arran Distillery.
BLAIR ATHOL
1995 20YO THE WHISKY VAULT
2016 LIMITED EDITION
A member of the ‘nutty-spicy’ camp which defined the old
Bell’s distilleries, Blair Athol takes the first part of the descriptor to its
boldest expression. Established on peaty moorland south of Pitlochry in the foothills of the Grampian mountains, Blair Athol’s ancient source of water is the Allt Dour – in Gaelic “the burn of the otter,” which flows through the grounds from the slopes of Ben Vrackie. Closed in 1932, Blair Athol was saved during the depression by Arthur Bell and Sons. In 1949 it was extensively rebuilt, re-opened, and has been in production ever since.
Cloudy worts and a short fermentation time give the
nutty base, but it is distillation which adds real weight to the distillate. A
controlled level of solids coming across in the wash still add a rich, deep,
malt-loaf character to the new make. It is this character which allows it to
show so well in ex-Sherry, although for blending purposes the majority of the
make is destined for ex-Bourbon.
The central Perthshire town of Pitlochry sits on the
banks of the River Tay and has had a distillery since 1798, making its plant
one of the oldest legal whisky-making sites in Scotland. The original
distillery was named Aldour after the burn which supplied it with process
water, but changed its name to Blair Athol after a nearby village in 1825.
During WWII, both Blair Athol and Dufftown distilleries
had been bought by Perth-based blender, Arthur Bell & Sons. By the 1970s,
Bell’s was being built into the UK’s top-selling blended Scotch and, as a
result, Blair Athol was doubled in capacity.
In an attempt to tap into the then-infant single malt
market, Bell’s bottled it as an eight-year-old in the 1980s, but in the Diageo
era it has appeared mainly as a member of the Flora & Fauna range as a 12 YO,
matured in first-fill ex-Sherry casks.
THE WHISKY VAULT CASK
Highlands Single Malts Whisky
|
|
|
Region |
Highlands |
|
Vintage |
1995 |
|
Age |
20 |
|
Bottled |
2016 |
|
Series
|
The
Vault |
|
Yield |
180 |
|
Cask |
Sherry |
|
Cask
Number |
#11163 |
|
Bottler |
Douglas
Laing |
|
ABV |
51.8% |
|
Content |
70cl |
|
Country
of Origin |
Scotland |
|
GTIN |
5014218799200 |
Product Details
This well-sherried Highland single malt Scotch whisky
was laid to rest at the Blair Athol distillery in November 1995, where it
remained undisturbed for 20 long years before being bottled in May 2016 especially
for The Whisky Vault by celebrated independent bottlers Douglas Laing & Co.
Ltd from their Douglas McGibbon stocks.
A superb malt that is one of just 180 bottles taken
from sherry cask number 11163, bottled at a natural cask strength of 51.8% ABV
and supplied with a smart presentation tube.
TASTING NOTES: -
Nose: Opens warmly spiced and runs to soft barley with
a macerated dark fruit style
Palate: Lively still with spices to the fore – then
doughy – home-baked fruit pie tones
Finish: Those warming spices are still so abundant, with a
gristy stewed apples quality.
BRAEVAL
Infrequent Flyers Single Cask 11 YO Whisky
The Braes of Glenlivet was a major location for illicit
stills in the 18th and 19th centuries, and if local rumours are true, the
practice continued until relatively recently. This remote, sheltered, high
pasture land was ideal for moonshining – the first road to ‘the Braes’ was only
laid in the 1960s. The distillery followed in 1972.
Braeval, a Speyside single malt Scotch whisky distillery, has steadily grown in capacity and is now home to six stills (two large wash and four smaller spirit) all with thin necks and upward sloping lyne arms helping to generate a lighter style with some floral notes. It is rarely seen as a single malt – even independent bottlers scarcely have any. It shares the honour of being the highest distillery in Scotland jointly with Dalwhinnie, at 355 m above mean sea level.
The site was chosen by Seagram – at that point still in
pursuit of The Glenlivet – purportedly because of the quality of its water.
Famously, the first mash took place before the roof had been put on the
distillery because the chairman was coming from Canada to inspect his new baby.
It was one of the first wholly automated distilleries
in Scotland and one of the first to contain all of the equipment in a single
open-plan space. Although it sports a pagoda roof, no malting has ever taken
place.
It became part of Pernod Ricard’s portfolio when the
firm took over Seagram’s Scotch whisky division in 2000. The following year,
its new owner mothballed it for six years. It is now in full production. First known
as Braes of Glenlivet, it changed its name to Braeval to avoid any confusion
with its more famous neighbour.
Cask # 27768 | 2009 | 11 year old Whisky | 70cl | 56.1% | £89.95
DISTILLERY |
|
|
Region |
Speyside |
|
Description |
Infrequent Flyers Single Cask |
|
Vintage |
2009 |
|
Year Bottled |
2020 |
|
Age |
11 year old |
|
Alcohol ABV |
56.1 % |
|
Cask Strength |
Yes |
|
Cask Wood Type |
American Oak |
|
Cask Number |
215 |
|
Single Cask |
Yes |
|
Packaging |
Cardboard Tube |
|
Bottler |
||
Country of Origin |
Scotland |
|
Stopper |
Cork |
|
Bottle Type |
Standard |
|
Bottle Size |
70cl |
|
Neck Level |
Full Level |
|
HTFW Cat. No. |
LP13018 |
Product Description
Colour: Light gold.
Nose: A classic Speyside
nose - fresh, sweet, fruity and very floral. Buttery, baked fruits, almonds and
treacle.
Palate: This has a real
bakery store vibe to it. Buttery and creamy, with plenty of honey, vanilla and
malty notes. Deliciously sweet, with toffee, vanilla cheesecake and custard.
Finish: Sweet and spicy.
JURA 2007
Island Single Malt Limited Edition Scotch Whisky
It might be reasonably assumed that Jura would make a peaty
whisky. After all, the island is smothered in the stuff. It was, however, built
in the 1960s with backing from a major blender, Mackinlay, and at that time
light whisky was what was needed. Jura, therefore, conformed to the
requirements of the market. Noel Moitra
JURA DISTILLERY
Jura is a classic 1960s distillery – large rooms, a
clear flow from a semi-lauter tun, stainless steel washbacks, and a capacious
stillhouse with very tall (7.7m) stills with a capacity of more than 20,000
litres. Clearly, it was not built solely to satisfy the thirst of the local
populace. Relatively short ferments give Jura background rigidity – meaning
that this is a whisky that needs time (or active casks) to open fully.
Although the large southern Hebridean island of Jura
has always been sparsely populated, it has a fascinating distilling heritage.
In the 18th century, it was reported that islanders made spirits from rowan
berries, as well as using the bitter fruit to acidulate their whisky punch.
Sure, illicit distillation occurred, but there was a legal site in the
island’s only settlement, Craighouse, in 1810 licensed to the island’s owner
Archibald Campbell. There is debate as to whether there was a legal distillery
in Lagg.
The distillery went through a number of names:
Craighouse, Small Isles, Caol nan Eilean, Jura, and various owners without
garnering any great fame until 1901 when it was among many to close in whisky’s
first great sales slump. The cost of running a remote island site is always
expensive, and a lack of direct transport to the mainland (all ferry traffic
still has to go via Islay) also counted against its survival.
It was these economics which ruled Jura out of the
distilling equation for over six decades. Then, in 1963, two of the island’s landowners,
Robin Fletcher and Tony Riley-Smith, decided to start whisky-making once more –
predominantly as an incentive to stop any further decline in the island’s
population. With financial backing from Leith-based blender Charles Mackinlay
& Co, designer William Delme-Evans was hired and a large, modern
distillery was built which was further expanded in 1978 to its current size. In
1985, Invergordon Distillers bought Mackinlay and from there the firms were
folded into Whyte & Mackay.
It began being sold as a single malt in 1974, and the
range has grown steadily since. The start of peating saw some smoky whisky
being included in the no-age Superstition brand, launched in 2002, while a 100%
smoked Prophecy was released in 2009.
In 2018, Jura underwent a radical revamp, introducing a
completely new range of whiskies with a lightly smoky character, from the
entry-level NAS expression Jura Journey through 10-, 12- and 18-year-old malts,
plus Jura Seven Wood. Further expressions, including Jura Time and Jura Tide,
have been launched into travel retail. One may conclude that the core range of
Jura has a subtly smoky character, from incorporating a small amount of peated
spirit into the vatting.
THE OLD MALT CASK
Cask # HL19605 |
2007 | 14 YO Whisky | 70cl | 50% | £110
|
DISTILLERY |
Jura |
Classification |
Scotch Whisky |
|
Region |
Island |
|
Style |
Single Malt |
|
Size |
70cl |
|
ABV |
50% |
|
Country of Origin |
Scotland |
|
Age Statement |
14 Year Old |
|
Single Cask |
HL19605 |
|
Distilled |
October 2007 |
|
Bottled |
August 2022 |
|
Cask Strength |
Yes |
|
Bottle Type |
Standard |
|
Bottler |
Hunter Laing |
|
Type of Wood |
Oak |
|
Stopper |
Cork |
|
Chill Filtered |
No |
|
Artificial Colouring |
No |
|
Number of Bottles |
304 |
|
Neck Level |
Full Level |
Product Description
Distilled at Jura Distillery, this Island Region is a bottling from The Old Malt Cask range at Hunter Laing & Co. The marvellous expression was aged for 14 years in a single hogshead cask and this is one of only 304 bottles. Bottled at 50% abv and free from chill-filtration with natural colour.
Expect leafy, sweet and fresh aromas, followed by a
palate full of orange pulp and a touch of fennel. The finish is long and
grassy, with a hint of ginger.