GLENCAIRN GLASSES GO MULTI-COLOURED

 A WIDE RANGE OF GLENCAIRN GLASSES TO CHOOSE FROM

Glencairn is celebrating the 20th anniversary of the Glencairn Glass, the world’s favourite whisky glass, by introducing a new core range of coloured glasses that look great in the hand and are ideal for those whisky enthusiasts who enjoy blind tasting. They will, henceforth, not be able to see the true colour of the whisky.

Following the huge popularity of the limited edition black Glencairn Glass in 2020, Glencairn- decided to make their glass available in black, blue, red, green, and shimmering gold alongside the original clear glass. How good do they look?

The massive success of their limited edition black Glencairn Glass in 2020 which sold out almost immediately forced them to consider a response to public demand. Their 20th anniversary gift to loyal fans of the Glencairn Glass across the world is the introduction of this colourful new range, which is here to stay. Not only are the coloured glasses a fun addition to any drinks cabinet, tasting your dram blind is the perfect way to develop your senses and to learn all about the wonderful world of whisky.

Champagne, Cognac, Wine . . . each type of liquor has its own glass. Yet Whisky, the world’s most complex spirit can be found served in anything from highball tumblers to Paris goblets to Tequila shot glasses. 

Only the connoisseur of Malt Whisky and the cognoscenti know that Scotch Malt Whisky is composed of FIVE elements: The Colour, the Nose, the Serpent waiting to be released, the Palate and the Finish. We could perhaps add the sybarite to this list. It was when Malt Whiskies came into the limelight some 25 years ago that sellers realised that they had been sleeping, since most malts were used to glamourise the Scotch Whisky Blends market. Single Malt drinkers out of tumblers, wine and shot glasses were immediately picked out as the nouveau riche, moneyed persons with no class! And certainly No Taste!! 

 

                                  

The Glencairn Whisky Glass is a revolutionary whisky glass that really lets one savour the taste and complexity of fine whisky. These are the ONLY GLASSES for Single Malt Whiskies. With the tapered mouth, you are able to really sniff all nuances the whisky has to offer. Any malt advocate will love this glass! Why then, do some so-called whisky ‘connoisseurs’ spend thousands on the most complex, rewarding, pleasure-giving liquids yet contrived by humanity, and then drink them from tumblers? “Philistines!” says Andy Davidson. “Tumblers are useless when it comes to focussing or enhancing the taste experience of whisky. They were originally used to prevent you from smelling bad whisky."

He should know. In 1976, his father, Raymond Davidson, saw this lacuna and designed a glass, but imperfect, as he called it. He then personally went to the top ‘noses’ or blenders of the Scotch Whisky industry with his design and asked them for their opinions. Meeting failure after failure as the so called cognoscenti stuck to tumblers, it took 25 years and one generation of Malt Whisky enthusiasts to realise its true value. After extensive interaction and experiments, Andy Davidson’s Glencairn Crystal solved the problem of identifying the ideal glass for whisky Andy came out of the design phase and, with the blessings of the top five blenders of Scotch Whisky, went to market in 2001.

The Glencairn Glass

Today the Glencairn Glass can be found at every distillery in Scotland, Ireland, Wales as well as most in the USA. In 2006 the glass won the Queen's Award for innovation. The shape of the Glencairn whisky glass is derived from the traditional nosing copitas used in whisky labs around Scotland, a style lovingly developed by Glencairn Crystal Ltd, Scotland for drinking whisky. The problem with the copitas were that they were unstable long-stemmed glasses and would break frequently. The Glencairn glass has no such slim and fragile stem, but a comfy and compact solid crystal base, which prevents the glass from toppling and breaking and which fits snugly in your fingers. This is clearly visible in the photographs of the Glencairn glass in this post.

The capacity of a typical Glencairn whisky glass is approximately 175 ml, and is intended to hold approximately 50 ml of liquid, 1/14^th of the capacity of 700 ml bottles of Scotch Whisky in the EU and 1/15^th that of an American or Indian 750 ml bottle.

The 175 ml glass is 115 mm (4.5 in) in height and is available in two versions: 24% lead crystal and lead-free crystal glass. The vast majority of glasses in circulation are of the lead-free crystal variety. The Glencairn glass was originally designed for pub/bar use so it is a sturdy little glass. The bottom is heavy so it's not easily tipped over and is easily grasped. It feels good in the hand. My six Glencairn glasses are crafted from lead-free crystal.

A Copita

The Glencairn glass is the ONLY glass on the market that is designed specifically for drinking whisky and endorsed as such by the Scotch Whisky Association; it is used by every whisky company in Scotland and Ireland and many in the USA for their Bourbons. 

The traditional style of whisky glass is a cut crystal Old Fashioned whisky tumbler, the most commonly used type of whisky glass. However, a tumbler does not hold and focus the aromas as much for the experience of the drinker as the Glencairn, which curve inwards towards the top of the glass. Inward-curved glasses are the preferred choice of connoisseurs who consider the aroma especially important to the experience of a whisky.

If you fancy yourself a SMSW lover, you’d best have a small stock of Glencairn glasses at hand. Six would be about right. Do please remember that these are nosing and tasting glasses. While they can certainly be used as glasses for drinking SMSW, you could also use filigreed balloon glasses, like those used for Cognac and wine. The overriding factor is that they should, like the Glencairn glass, be arcing inward towards the human nose.

There is another aspect of this glass that hardly any people know about. Pour exactly 60 ml, today’s standard two ounces or Pegs or 1 Large into the Glencairn glass. It will fill the bowl of the glass. Now lay the glass on its side. The whisky/liquor will reach the lip of the glass without a single drop dripping out! Try it. Push it gently and the glass will move in an arc around its heavy base without spilling a drop.

There are dozens of types of whisky glasses, and some adopt the same principle as the Glencairn like: The Riedel Vinum Single Malt Whisky Glasses.

Riedel makes a whole line of glassware and their hallmark is that the glass is of high quality but is remarkably thin. Norlan offers a very stylish way to taste and nose your favorite dram. Norlan whisky glasses are designed for getting the aromas to your nose in the best way possible. This unique glass is an expensive and stylish nosing and drinking whisky glass. I've even seen Stolzle Glencairn Glasses online. All said and done, the original Glencairn Glass gives you the best value for your money.

Beware of fraud! SCAM artists sell GLENCARIN glasses, ripping off the unknowing customer. They buy these glasses from Alibaba at $0.5-.75 per glass, the wholesale price for a minimum of 2000-5000 glasses and then sell them at 1500% profit. 

These glasses sound tinny when tapped with a fork or spoon. They are every bit as good as Glencairn glasses in terms of utility, but lack the class and longevity of the original brand. When washed, they do not appear to shine as crystal glasses should, but need a dedicated rub with flannel.

Using the glass:

Colour

Is your whisky pale gold, deep gold, copper or rich amber in colour?

How to use

This indicates the type of cask in which the liquid has been matured.

Nose

Which aromas do you recognise when you nose your whisky – is it smoky, fruity, chocolaty…?

How to use

Give it time; the scents change in the glass all the time. Add a drop of water -The amount is up to you (but enough to remove any prickle or burning sensation felt on the nose) – and sniff again. Has the spirit opened up or closed down?

Body

Does your whisky have a light, medium or full body?

How to use

As you swirl the whisky in the glass does it cling to the sides and do the “legs” slide down slowly or quickly? Thick, slow running “legs” indicate a more dense texture; whilst thin fast moving “legs” suggest the opposite. Both are good!

Palate

Which characteristics do you notice when you taste the whisky?

How to use

First, sip the whisky without adding water. Identify the balance of ‘primary tastes’ – sweet (on the front of your tongue), salty and acidic (at the sides) and bitter or dry, spicy and smoky (at the back). Then add a little water. This makes it easier to hold the liquid in your mouth for longer and further explore its taste. If you can resist temptation and leave a little liquid in the glass for 20 minutes or so, return to nose and taste to explore how the flavour has developed.

Finish

Does the flavour remain for a long time or does it disappear quickly?

How to use

Whiskies from the Glencairn Glass are best enjoyed neat or with a little water. Consider whether the flavours linger, slowly change or disappear quite quickly.

THE limited-edition black Glencairn Glass

Glencairn has also released a limited-edition black Glencairn Glass. For the first time ever the iconic Glencairn Glass will be available to buy in black –  but only a few thousand are for sale.

These unique glasses will be the first to be officially sold to the public by the award-winning, Scottish family business, Glencairn Crystal.  Never before have black Glencairn Glasses been available to buy so now is a chance to procure a piece of whisky industry history. Available from Friday 29 November and for as long as stocks last, each glass costs £7 and comes in a special edition black box.

The glasses can only be purchased via the Glencairn Crystal online store  where you can also find a 20% discount across all Glencairn Glassware items over the weekend and Monday. The perfect place to find extra special sparkling gifts for Christmas for whisky-loving friends and family.

The Glencairn Glass is endorsed by the Scotch Whisky Association as the official glass for whisky. Glencairn Crystal makes over 3 million per year, across hundreds of brands, distributed to over 90 countries worldwide.

Glencairn has previously won The Queen’s Awards three times:

1. The Queens Award for Enterprise 2017 and 2012
2. The Queens Award for Innovation 2006 (with the Glencairn Whisky Glass)

THE KILCHOMAN LOCH GORM LIMITED EDITION SERIES

KILCHOMAN LAUNCHES LOCH GORM WHISKY 2021 EDITION

<FROM 2011 TO 2015>

When Kilchoman came into the Scottish distilling scene 15 years ago, they were entering an industry that could not have been more steeped in tradition. In fact, they were the first new Scotch distillery on Islay in over a hundred years. So, how could they stand out and create their own identity in a region that had a well-established status? They looked to the past, present, and future and started their own traditions.

The location of Kilchoman on Islay’s west coast has some historical resonance. It was in this parish that the MacBeatha/Beaton family settled when they came across in 1300 from what is now County Antrim in Northern Ireland.

They were doctors (a Beaton was the hereditary physician to the kings of Scotland for hundreds of years) who translated medical texts about distillation from Latin into Gaelic. There is therefore a theory (albeit unproven) that Islay was the first place where distillation took place in Scotland – and that Kilchoman parish was where it occurred.

It wasn’t so much this which caused Anthony Wills to build his farm distillery here in 2005 – it was more the fact that there was a spare steading available at Rockside Farm. In building Kilchoman, the Wills family has brought farm distilling back to Islay.

Now surrounded by barley fields, the distillery expanded in 2007 and built new warehouses. In November 2017, an additional malting floor and kiln were built on site. 

In May 2019, Kilchoman doubled production with the construction of a new stillhouse containing two more stills, along with a new mash tun and six new washbacks. That has taken production capacity close to 0.5m litres of pure alcohol a year and will enable experimental runs using different yeast and barley varieties.

Kilchoman has done a fantastic job of championing the merits of young whisky. Their first single malt was released in 2009 as a three years old. With that success, they looked to the past and revitalised the once-common practice of farm-scale distilling. Just like 200 years ago, they grow, malt and peat their own barley, and also all distilling, maturation, and bottling are all done within the farm distillery limits. The intended experience is to transport the imbiber to the midst of their barley fields as they sip.

These days 25% of its barley requirements come from Islay (mostly from fields around the distillery). It has two small malting floors and kilns which produce a medium-peated malt – the heavily peated with which it is mixed comes from Port Ellen. Inside the distillery, fermentation is long, helping to create fruitiness to balance the shoreline/shellfish-like phenolics. At the same time, an enlightened (and pricey) wood policy has seen a high percentage of first-fill ex-Bourbon and ex-Sherry casks being used. The result was that Kilchoman hit the start of its mature period at a remarkably young age.    

Kilchoman Distillery on Islay has quaint names for its NAS whiskies and is often asked what the names stand for in some of their core range expressions.

Kilchoman Machir Bay: Their first continual release was launched back in 2012 and it seemed obvious to name it after the beautiful beach nearby– Machir Bay. This bay is located on the west coast of Islay, just along the road from the distillery. The area surrounding the Bay is sparsely populated today, but archaeological evidence shows a long history of humans settling in the parish of Kilchoman. There are remnants of two hamlets to the southeast, Dun Neadean and Dun Chroisprig, located on a rocky knoll by the coastline, near the old road between Kilchoman and another small hamlet to the south, Kilchiaran.

Machir Bay is a beach that is equally as stunning on a stormy day in the middle of winter as it is on a warm, sunny day in summer. On bad weather days, storms can be really frenzied. It has had its share of shipwrecks too, three of them in the past 200 years. Perhaps the most famous incident was the wreck of HMS Otranto in October 1918, shortly before the end of WW I. A navigation error caused it to collide with HMS Kashmir. The casualty toll was estimated at 470 men, which makes it one of the worst convoy accidents of the war.

With almost two km of beautiful sandy beach, a fresh sea breeze and stunning sunsets, it is easy to see why it is such a popular place with both locals and visitors. Named after this spectacular beach, the award-winning Machir Bay is the flagship of the Kilchoman Range. It has a vatting of approximately 90% bourbon barrels and 10% oloroso sherry casks.

Now for the spirit. The body of the bottle is round and thick with a gently sloping shoulder that matches up with a relatively short neck. The whole thing is capped off with a wood and cork stopper, and there’s a metal emblem of the distillery embedded in the glass. Be careful; the bottle is very heavy and the neck/cork small. DO NOT lift these bottles by the neck-no point testing your luck.

The labelling here is nice, above average for a Scotch whisky, with a large colour-coordinated label for the distillery name and then a smaller label underneath with the specific brand and bottling details. It’s the right balance: a good thickness to catch the eye and understand what you’re getting, while still allowing you to see the spirit on the other side of the glass no matter how much has ‘evaporated’ over time.

The foremost thing you’ll notice is that this is definitively on the lighter side of the colour spectrum when it comes to Scotch whisky: a hay-coloured liquid, almost light gold. This whisky does not use artificial caramel colour, e150A. Moreover, at 46% ABV, it is not chill-filtered and states so on the label.

The first immediately noticeable aroma is the peat smoke note that you would expect from an Islay scotch, but with an unusual and unmistakable tang. That will be the maritime air buttressed by a citric influence mixed with some honey and flower blossoms. The excellent nip stays on, showing a little bit of tangy fruit in there —peach, lemon, orange, kinoo, pear and just a touch of nuttiness.

The taste is intense; not as big a hammer as Ardbeg but close to a Lagavulin 16. The known ppm is 50, making the taste something to remember. There’s the peat smoke up front but there’s also much more to it than that. The citrus of the lemon and the peach as anticipated from the aroma, some vanilla off the oak, a bit of maltiness from the grains, and a heavy helping of minerals — the salty note from the sea breeze.

The finish is graceful and the first time you get a trace of bitterness, rounding off the overall profile.

ICE: If you add ice, the bitterness withdraws, reducing its complexity. It becomes too smooth. Some may like that experience. But, on the other hand, the peat smoke is significantly diminished. This version of the spirit becomes more fruity and floral-forward, with friendly peat to balance things out, making it closer to a Highland scotch than an Islay product. What cannot leave are the mineral notes. It retains that briny note that you always note in spirits aged by the seaside, very Talisker-like.

Kilchoman Sanaig: Sanaig, the second continual release which was launched in 2014, is named after a rugged coastal inlet north of the distillery.         

The west coast of Islay is regularly battered by strong Atlantic storms. These high winds and rough seas have carved into the coastline to dramatic effect, none more so than at Sanaigmore, the north-western tip which is where their Sanaig release has gained its name. With clear waters and white sand, Sanaigmore is a beautiful place to visit. With stunning views from the clifftop, you can see the hills in the northeast of Islay and the Paps of Jura in the far distance. On a very clear day, you can even see as far as the islands of Mull and Colonsay 30 km to the North.

This predominantly sherry cask matured scotch whisky consists of approximately 70% oloroso hogsheads and 30% bourbon barrels, imparting a balance of dried fruits, dark chocolate and rich peat smoke into the spirit.

Sanaig neatly balances the contrasting influences of rich sherry maturation, bourbon barrel finesse and Islay peat smoke

This Kilchoman is more towards sherry casks, as opposed to the bourbon-forward Machir Bay. In Sanaig’s case, it’s a 70:30 ratio between sherry and bourbon casks, an extra 25 months of ageing in oloroso sherry casks. Sanaig is also bottled at 46% ABV without chill-filtration or added colour, a classical craft presentation. It’s a 50 ppm whisky, so one can expect a punch.

There is a curious mixture of sweet peat and ashes in the aroma plus prickly warmth from the wood. A hint of incense. Once the smoke fades, fruitiness clearly develops along with black pepper and strong woody peat. There are persistent notes of lime peel. Sherry notes come in somewhat late, seconded to the peat.

In the mouth, the peat is more forward, half sweet and half smoke. A medium to lightweight texture – it’s not especially viscous, but still pleasant. Not much tongue burn. A good balance between peat and sweet notes. Again, the peat appears to be more Highland peat style with more green notes and few seaweed and iodine medicinal notes.

The finish is long, bordering on savoury, like seafood with Limca. Ends with dry peat and oak tannins.

Overall: An elegant, if straightforward peated malt with sherry in the background. You have to let the Kilchoman Sanaig breathe. When it first rolls out it’s an unruly ball of char and smoke, but let it breathe and good things begin to happen. Sweetness, oils and earthier notes arrive and get pinned together with the peat. It’s an exercise in patience. This is a good whisky after it’s had a moment to wake up. It’s truly a marvel of what they’ve achieved for it to overshoot Machir Bay.

Despite the utilisation of sherry casks, Kilchoman Sanaig remains a particularly coastal whisky. There’s certainly a fair amount of sweetness here, but this is played off against some sharp mineral aromas and flavours, making for a balanced and well-integrated expression. Those searching for big overt sherry-driven flavours from Kilchoman should probably focus on either Loch Gorm or on one of the distillery’s single-cask releases. Sanaig offers more gradation – its vatting of casks creating an expression where the sherry influence is supporting the wider array of spirit and peat flavours, rather than taking charge.

Kilchoman 100% Islay 10^th Edition: Kilchoman’s 100% Islay range is the world’s only Single Farm Single Malt Scotch Whisky. It represents the revival of traditional farm distilling; growing their own barley before malting, distilling, maturing and bottling every bottle of their 100% Islay range on site. The 100% Islay 10th Edition 50% ABV was distilled from their 2007, 2009 and 2010 barley harvests before being matured in 39 bourbon barrels and 2 oloroso sherry butts for a minimum of 9 years, resulting in a release of 12,400 bottles in 2011.

One can even trace the origins back to the barley variety, field and farmer who planted it. This edition was matured in the on-site dunnage warehouses before it was bottled at 50% ABV. As with all 100% Islay releases, it only weighs in at 20ppm compared to Kilchoman's usual 50ppm, allowing the tropical notes from the bourbon barrel to really shine through. 100% Islay still packs enough peat to fully satisfy your cravings. The fumes and plumes form a wonderful union with the other notes, which are predominantly fruity, grainy, creamy and sweet. Tremendously approachable and full of character. 

Nose: Floral notes with citrus sweetness, light peat smoke and apricots.

Palate: Prunes, cinnamon and cooked apples & pears with hints of fresh smoke.

Finish: Waves of mildly spiced peat smoke, lasting sweetness and rich sherry notes.

THE LOCH GORM 2021 50% ABV

Loch Gorm is the name given to Kilchoman’s annual sherry matured limited edition.  Named after Islay’s largest freshwater lake neighbouring the distillery, the dark, peat-coloured murky colour of the loch’s water is reflected in the rich coppery tones of the sherry-matured Loch Gorm release. Loch Gorm is also Islay’s biggest freshwater loch with an abundance of wildlife. The Allt Gleann Osamail burn, from which Kilchoman collects their production water, is one of the loch’s major tributaries.

Overlooked by the distillery, Loch Gorm is situated less than a mile from the Atlantic coast, roughly between Machir Bay in the south and Saligo Bay in the west. With a four-mile circumference, it is Islay’s biggest freshwater loch with an abundance of wildlife and dark peat-coloured waters.  The Allt Gleann Osamail burn, from which we collect our production water, is one of the loch’s major tributaries.  Loch Gorm also has a very interesting history.  An example of this is the small island in the southeast called Eilean Mor.  There are overgrown remains of a castle which dates back to the late 16th and early 17th centuries.

LOCH GORM 2021

Kilchoman Loch Gorm: Loch Gorm, named after this famously dark and peaty loch, is a sherry cask single malt matured exclusively in oloroso casks, extracting the rich spicy character of the European oak as it ages in their Islay warehouse.  These ex-oloroso sherry casks impart a combination of heavy sherry notes, spicy dark chocolate, rich fruits and burnt sugar. This balances beautifully with the Kilchoman peat smoke.  Limited editions of Loch Gorm are launched annually.

The Oloroso sherry maturation of Loch Gorm gives it a neat balance of big rich sherry flavours which pair very nicely with the peat smoke, soft fruits and typical sweetness of Kilchoman

The always hotly anticipated Loch Gorm release for 2021 is a vatting of 24 oloroso sherry butts filled in 2011 and 2012. It is thus a minimum of 9 years old. Jam-packed with juicy-fruit and dry barbeque smoke, excellent as usual from the Islay farm distillery.

The 50 ppm Kilchoman Loch Gorm is exclusively matured in oloroso sherry casks from the renowned bodega, Jose Miguel Martin. It is common for distilleries to use a variety of sherry producers but for consistent quality and character, it is vital that Kilchoman sources them all from just one bodega. They select a combination of sherry butts and hogsheads from Jose Miguel Martin that provides two separate styles of maturation.

These ex-oloroso sherry casks impart a combination of heavy sherry notes, spicy dark chocolate, rich fruits and burnt sugar. This balances beautifully with the Kilchoman peat smoke and citrus fruits found within the farm-crafted spirit.

Nose: Macerated lemons, buttery shortbread and Moroccan spices give way to rich sherry notes and faint notes of peat smoke.

Palate: Cloves, dark chocolate and juicy prunes with waves of roasted almonds, sultanas, nougat and peat embers.

Finish: Herbaceous, earthy and maritime with liquorice, leather and a distinctly dry sherry-soaked finish.

"Although we have always filled the bulk of our spirit into ex-bourbon barrels, the Loch Gorm releases have shown how well our peated Islay spirit can combine with sherry casks, which is not always an easy task. Rich bold flavours with a breadth, depth and balance of character that sets it apart, the 2021 edition is packed with juicy fruit, macerated lemon and sweet char-grilled BBQ smoke” says Kilchoman.

<FROM 2016 TO 2020>

ARDBEG EXPANDED FROM TWO TO FOUR STILLS

ARDBEG DOUBLES DISTILLATION CAPACITY

Exactly two years and 144 days in the making, the new Ardbeg Stillhouse was completed in March 2021. Altering the character of the whisky was a risk they weren’t prepared to take, so the new stills were built to the exact specifications as the old ones were – right down to the millimetre. In true Ardbeg style, even the things that didn’t matter, mattered. Every nut, bolt and rivet had to be in the right place!Now they have four stills (instead of two) looking out to sea, and the ever-increasing demand for their whisky is secured for future generations of Ardbeggians.

In a grandiose plan floated way back in February 2019, Islay single malt whisky distillery Ardbeg was almost set to add two more stills, doubling its distillation capacity while moving production into a new Stillhouse.

The multi-million-pound project, funded by distillery owner The Glenmorangie Company, was due to start work that year, subject to planning permission, with completion scheduled for 2019. Plans included the construction of a new still house on a site once occupied by warehouses, with the current still house converted to house new washbacks.

The expanded distillery’s four stills – its existing duo of wash and spirit stills, plus a new pair of wash and spirit stills – would be housed in a ‘traditional-style’ building, Ardbeg said. Planning permission had already been granted to move Ardbeg’s boiler house a little further away from the distillery, and work on this had begun. Plans for the new still house had been submitted to Argyll & Bute Council, and the distillery was set to hold a meeting for local residents on Islay to discuss the project in the near future. Ardbeg would ‘continue its normal operations’ while construction work took place alongside.

Ardbeg’s current era of high demand and expansion is a world away from its near demise two decades ago, when it was acquired by Glenmorangie in a poor state of repair. The distillery spent most of the 1980s and 1990s either silent, working intermittently and conducting experiments or being used for spare parts by nearby Laphroaig, then under the same ownership. News of the planned expansion came just weeks after Glenmorangie unveiled plans to build its own new still house to accommodate two new stills, in addition to the six currently used at the distillery in Tain.

It also came at a time of expanding whisky production on Islay: Kilchoman said it would double production capacity in November last year, and Laphroaig is also planning to add more stills. Meanwhile, the new Ardnahoe distillery was due to start production that spring, plans for a distillery at Gartbreck Farm had been resurrected and the long-silent Port Ellen distillery was to be revived by 2020.

As anyone who’s read the recent feature outlining the 20-year-old story of the resurrection of Ardbeg will know, Dodson was the whisky veteran sent in to patch up the Islay distillery and get it up and running again following its acquisition by Glenmorangie in 1997. Dodson was clearly fascinated by the Ardbeg spirit character – had been since the 1970s during his ‘Islay period’ of single malt drinking. ‘I’d never been there, and it didn’t make sense to me,’ he recalls. ‘I always thought Laphroaig and Lagavulin were really heavy compared to Ardbeg. But it wasn’t until I began to nose the new make spirit [in June 1997] that I thought: “This is why.”’

But where does that quintessential Ardbeg character – the lush fruit keeping the smoke in check – come from? Dodson has a sacrilegious hypothesis: ‘My theory – which didn’t go down well with the marketing department – was that, when they were starting up Ardbeg, the whisky was probably crap, so they decided to put an angle on the lyne arm. ‘And it was probably still no good, so they put in the purifier, collecting any liquid and directing it back into the body of the still, allowing it to run back down, but not stopping the vapours from heading up the still. ‘It’s serendipity. A lot of the things that have happened in the Scotch whisky industry came about by accident.’ Serendipity, yes, but also the willingness to make mistakes and the good sense to learn from them, to improve, hone, tinker to get the best possible result out of the raw materials and equipment at your disposal.

Distilleries, it seems, have an almost human character, full of temperament and idiosyncratic traits that defy scientific analysis. Dodson had thought that he’d be able to get 1.3m litres of pure alcohol a year out of Ardbeg – until he faced the challenge of working with a spirit still that’s almost as big as the wash still. ‘I could only get to the 1.1m-litre mark because of the need to get a balanced distillation,’ he says.

On the night that the first spirit ran again from the stills at Ardbeg, the plan was to bring the wash still in slowly and gently. ‘That won’t work,’ said Duncan Logan, 35-year Ardbeg veteran and, despite no longer working there, an invaluable source of advice to Dodson at that time. ‘You have to let it come in, then slow it down afterwards. If you shut the steam off, you’ll lose it.’ Logan was ignored – but not for long.

At Ardbeg, the pre-pandemic talk was no longer that of survival, but of expansion, with its own challenges and potential pitfalls. Intervening in the serendipitous evolutionary process that has made Ardbeg 'Ardbeg' over a period of more than two centuries is something that has to be done with care and sensitivity.

Ardbeg is a distillery, not a museum. And if a distillery is like a person, then change is part of what makes you realise you’re still alive. What will the serendipitous discoveries of tomorrow be? Well, the demand for the peated Ardbeg Single Malt Whisky is growing insatiably. The distillery has now completed its expansion on the Scottish Island of Islay and will in future be able to almost double the production volume from 1.4 million litres of alcohol annually to 2.4 million litres.

The newly built Stillhouse, which is situated next to the waterline, is home to four stills: The previous pair of stills has moved here and a new pair has been added. The new wash still and the new spirit still are identical to the old ones so that the style of the Ardbeg Whisky does not change. A special highlight that visitors can look forward to on future distillery tours is a view of the Atlantic from the still house‘s large panorama window.

The construction of the project lasted around two and a half years, although it should actually have been finished in 2019, as originally planned. It was delayed considerably, not least because of the pandemic.            

WITH COLIN GORDON

The first distillation with new stills, is of course a special event and is traditionally celebrated by adding special ingredients that characterise the distillate. At Ardbeg, this is undoubtedly peat. Dugga Bowman, Head Warehouseman at Ardbeg, was the one to take on the task of digging the peat at Kintour Moss, which Distillery Manager Colin Gordon then symbolically placed in the still for a short time. "It is not often that a distillery manager has the privilege of inaugurating new stills. With our new Stillhouse we will keep the soul of Ardbeg and hope that our ultimate Islay Single Malt will delight many more Ardbeggians," he said.

THE JOHNNIE WALKER BLACK LABEL ORIGIN SERIES

 JOHNNIE WALKER BLACK LABEL 200TH ANNIVERSARY

It's often said that, in the bottle of fine alcohol, people can sense the spirit of the nation from which it came. Simply giving a freshly uncorked bottle a whiff will make you say: “Well, well. So this is what it’s about.” Out in the Scottish Highlands, one man gets to live that every day, to smell and taste the spirit of his home. That’s Jim Beveridge, the man behind the distilled magic at Johnnie Walker, their Master Blender.

Diageo has given its eponymous Black Label a makeover to celebrate 200 years since John Walker started his journey. Johnnie Walker has launched its Black Label Origin Series in India. A collection of four 12 year old blended Scotch whiskies, the series resonates with flavours that represent the Origins from the four annotated Regions of Scotch Whisky in Scotland, viz. Speyside, Highlands, Lowlands and Islay.

They believe that this will be a limited-edition design for a timeless classic. Johnnie Walker Black Label used to be sweetness wrapped in drifting smoke at 43% ABV. It is still touted as a masterful blend of single malt and grain whiskies from across Scotland, aged for at least 12 years but bottled at 40% ABV. The result is a whisky with depth and balance of flavour. Sadly, it has lost its charm and vice-like grip on the deluxe blended Scotch whisky market, as the original malts have gone into posterity. Jim Beveridge is due to retire soon. I believe it is only a matter of time till JWBL goes NAS.

Blender George Harper, who created the successful White Walker release in early 2019, describes the four elements in Johnnie Walker Black Label as “smoke, fresh fruit, rich fruit and creamy vanilla. No one flavour should dominate.” But with four new blends, his brief was to do the opposite. The idea was to pull it apart, focus on one element, and accentuate the regions. This would be an impossible task, considering ground realities and the final decision was to create three Blended Malts for the Islay, Speyside and Highlands regions and a Blended Scotch for the Lowlands, centred around Caol Ila, Cardhu, Clynelish for the Blended Malts and Glenkinchie and Cameronbridge distilleries for the Blended Scotch. The hardest one to get right was the Highland because of the sheer variety of styles and complexity in the region.

Jim Beveridge said that the modern generation is more interested in the end result and time is only relative. The right taste at the right price and damn the brand. Very true, considering the numerous new distilleries that are opening now. More and more people are interested in flavour, they are increasingly very open-minded. Knowledge is the new currency. Diageo aims at Johnnie Walker drinkers and people wanting to know more about Scotch. In the past, blends tended to be secretive. Now the story is opening up.

The Origin series encourages traffic between blended and malt whisky customers, but the team at Diageo also sees them as breaking down barriers in other ways. These are meant to be as happy mixed in cocktails as in dram form. To prove the point, a series of cocktails were made by their bartender Joey Medrington: the Islay in a Highball with Fever Tree orange and ginger; the Highland in a Rob Roy made with PX sherry, the Lowland in an Old Fashioned with honey syrup, and the Speyside in another long drink with elderflower and soda water. The Islay Highball was breathtaking, but it’s the Lowland with its creamy profile that is particularly cocktail-friendly.

All four whiskies are 12 years old and bottled at 42% ABV. They are great tasting whiskies, and a testament not only to the skill of the blenders at Johnnie Walker but the amazing palates they have to play with. The best thing about them is the price: they will sit just above standard Black Label.

Johnnie Walker Black Label Lowlands Origin Blended Scotch has a sweet, creamy vanilla character and notes of toffee. It is made exclusively from a variety of single malt and grain whiskies from the Lowlands including Glenkinchie and Cameronbridge.

Colour: Honey.

On the nose: It’s a bit hot with a semi-coarse texture. But they go away the longer the whisky sits in the glass. Scents of honey, toffee, some sort of apple-flavoured candy with apricots and marzipan. At the end are lasting scents of butterscotch and caramel.

In the mouth: A bit of chocolate raisins and prunes which are coated by a pepperiness. There’s that caramelized apple flavour again, only the caramel is bolder and more layered.

The Lowland Origin is sweet and simple. Reserve it to enjoy when you’re having a lazy day and just want something simple and easy to drink.

Johnnie Walker Black Label Speyside Origin is a light and fruity whisky with hints of cut green apples and orchard fruit. It is made exclusively from quality single malts from the Speyside region of Scotland, with whisky from the distilleries of Cardhu and Glendullan at its heart.

Colour: Honey.

On the nose: Tropical fruit notes with confectionery and a bit of heat. I get bold scents of peppers, cantaloupe, winter melon tea, toffee and barley tea. There are undertones of butterscotch, clementines, lemon peel, dried apricots and tobacco. At the end are more subtle but lasting scents of thyme and star fruit.

In the mouth: A layered wave of rushing star-fruits, peppers, cloves, tannins with butterscotch and honey to start. I get some sort of floral yet bitter note which makes me think of hibiscus tea and yellow bell peppers. At the end are more pepperiness followed by tastes of almond nuts, and cloves. There’s a quick flash of not unpleasant sulfur. Undertones of cloves, caramel, butterscotch and dried apricots appear at the end. A sneaky Milky Way chocolate bar-like flavour pops up the very end.

This Speyside Origin has more layers and complexity to it. But with the complexity comes some off note and off-note flavor combinations like the heat, yellow bell peppers and cloves with the confectionaries.

Johnnie Walker Black Label Islay Origin is the most succinct of the Origins series. With its maritime bouquet, it stands for the rough Islay region through and through. In terms of taste, it is mildly spicy but has a clear smoke aroma, as one is used to from the whisky region. The heart of every Islay whisky lover beats faster here, but it is also ideal for those who want to get to grips with this maritime smokiness. This blend is for people who want to explore Scotch whiskies with warming, maritime smokiness. This whisky is crafted exclusively from a variety of quality single malts from Islay, focussing on the distilleries of Lagavulin and Caol Ila.

Colour: Pale Gold

On the nose: Notes of sweet peat and bonfire embers with a slight spice. Iodine paired with toffee and delicious sweet orange. The peated character of Caol Ila wafts through, whereas the smoke of Lagavulin swirls around the nostrils.

In the mouth: Like all Johnnie Walker whiskies, this is best enjoyed however you see fit. It is a perfectly balanced 12-year-old Scotch whisky is best served straight for the flavour and first sip, after which a teaspoonful of water will release the whisky’s full maritime smokiness. The briny taste is unmistakeable, an undercurrent of rock salt around your tongue. Ashy, with the marine soul balanced by citrus and cloves. Spicy with pepper in the foreground, followed by delicious sweet notes of dried fruit, red fruit dipped in honey. Smoke is certainly present, but not too strongly so as to overwhelm the palate.

A long, lingering smoky finish and soft notes bloom from toffee.

Johnnie Walker Black Label Highland Origin: Of the four Johnnie Walker Black Label Origin Series bottling, the hardest one to get right is the Highland because of the sheer variety of styles in the region, from Clynelish Distillery to Dalwhinnie to Blair Athol to Glen Ord to Teaninich among others. Teaninich is one of the larger distilleries in Diageo’s portfolio but without much recognition.

A lot of expansion has taken place there. The end result is an expected annual capacity of nearly 10 million litres which is a phenomenal amount for a distillery that remains largely unknown. There is talk of a separate distillery appearing on the extensive site to further increase production. It’s Diageo’s policy to let every distillery have its own release, if not with a proper distillery label than as part of the Flora & Fauna range.

Clynelish has that waxy quality that many are addicted to and it is certainly present. Perhaps not so much in the independent releases. The distillery has an ability, an umami ability to produce something tasty that unites many. It is far from simplistic. So many complex layers on the nose and palate.

The Highland Origin is made for people looking to explore Scotch whiskies with a rich and dark fruitiness and red berry and stone fruit notes. It is crafted exclusively from Highland’s single malts, with Clynelish and Teaninich whisky at its core. The malt whiskies have been blended well, but the discerning nose and plate will recognise the individual characteristics.

On the nose: At the start one gets an aroma of sweet, rich/dried fruit notes (fruit cake), waxy and soft spice notes. Quite fragrant with fruit and a greenness. Notes of cut hay and chamomile, hints of wood resins and potpourri with a little winter spice and a gentle citric acidity.

In the mouth: Mainly aged in European oak ex-sherry casks. On tasting one gets rich flavour of dried fruits, slight warm peppery spice. Fruit cake, marmalade and fresh wine notes, takes on some tobacco with time. Very fruity, with a winey tang to it like a Cognac.

Finish: Marzipan and dried apricot. Some notes of laurel leaves, olive oil, orange zest and rice. A touch of nutmeg, but mainly pepper, a bit nutty maybe pecan.

A complex blend, it has prominent notes of orange rind, marmalade and honey; it takes a moment or two to settle with and has a long, soft spice finish. 

I might as well add the 2018 edition of Johnnie Walker Black Label Sherry Finish here, for want of a more appropriate space. It doesn't command a blog of its own.

JOHNNIE WALKER BLACK LABEL SHERRY FINISH

The Black Label Sherry Edition explores a new style of Black Label. It's a whisky with all the quality of Black Label 12 Years Old with a special twist - part of the blend is matured in former Sherry casks, giving the whisky a richer fruitiness. Complex fresh fruit with orchard fruitiness, sweet vanilla and gentle smoke.

Whisky’s marketing and messages follows the same trends as fashion cycles and if you’ve been in this caper long enough, you notice whisky doing exactly the same as fashion: The same things keep coming back, just with a slightly different twist.

The current trend getting a re-work is the focus on sherry maturation.  After many years of extolling the virtues of the bourbon cask (a virtue borne of necessity), the brands are now reminding everyone that sherry-matured whiskies are a vital part of the product’s spectrum.  The difference this time around is that both the landscape and the tools to work with are very different to the era in the early 2000’s when sherried whiskies were a different prospect.

Johnnie Walker Black Label’s Sherry Edition achieves its objective by injecting into the blend a greater proportion of ex-sherry casks.  Interestingly, the official press release makes no mention of finishing, but implies that whiskies that have spent their full lives maturing in ex-sherry butts and hogsheads have been worked into the blend.  Regular Black Label is already a reasonably complex and well-rounded blend as is, but the Sherry Edition also makes use of malt from Blair Athol, Cardhu and Strathmill to enhance the blend’s flavour profile – specifically looking for fresh orchard fruits, sweet vanilla, and some gentle smoke.

Colour:  For what it’s worth, the Sherry Edition is a tiny shade darker (a slightly more auburn tinge) than the regular Black Label, but it’s hard to make anything meaningful of this.

On the nose:  The Sherry Edition has a distinctive high note of fruit – particularly red currants.  There’s also some wood resin, a touch more spice (cinnamon and star anise), and raspberries.

In the mouth: The palate of the Sherry Edition definitely reflects some sherry influence, although nowhere near a Glendronach or Glenfarclas!  The palate is drier, there’s a touch of tannins and drier oak, and the dial is turned up slightly on those spices.  There’s some white pepper in the mix, oak-driven vanilla, and a slight spike of barley malt.

Finish:  The finish is spicier, with a wee bit of heat and an ashy dryness that lingers a little longer.

The Sherry Edition’s distinction and differences from the regular Black Label are subtle. In itself, the Sherry Edition is a perfectly good and acceptable blend, but it doesn’t scream sherry.  There’s no real overt oloroso to be found, leading this palate to suspect that fino is the prime contributor. The whisky is drier and spicier and works well as an interesting, 12 year old deluxe blend.  

A RELOOK AT THE DOUBLE BLACK & BLACK LABEL BLENDED SCOTCH

 JOHNNIE WALKER DOUBLE BLACK LABEL NAS

Johnnie Walker Double Black is inspired by the iconic flavours of Johnnie Walker Black Label and turns them up to create a blend of unprecedented intensity.

JOHNNIE WALKER BLACK LABEL: You wouldn’t be far wrong in saying that Johnnie Walker Black Label was a true icon, recognised as the benchmark for all other deluxe blends globally from 1920-2005. It was at top spot in Asia from the mid 1980s till 2005. Phipson’s Black Dog ruled the roost in Asia from 1889 to 1980. Something Special came to the fore between 1960 and 2010, when it was packed off to South America to leave the market open for Chivas Regal to strengthen its hold of numero uno in China and Asia. Johnnie Walker Black Label, created using only whiskies aged for a minimum of 12 years from the four corners of Scotland, had an unmistakably smooth, deep, complex character, now lost to the masses.

Yesterday's Johnnie Walker Black Label 12 Years Old Blended Scotch Whisky had Cardhu as its core malt, backed up with the super-smooth Glenkinchie, Dalwhinnie, Linkwood, Teaninich, the multi-faceted Cragganmore, Clynelish, Dailuaine, Talisker and Caol Ila. Today, the recognisable Single Malts for me are Clynelish 14 YO, Cardhu, Caol Ila, Glenkinchie, Dalwhinnie and Talisker. Mortlach, Linkwood and Dailuaine are lost to posterity. JW claims that there are at least 25-28 more Single Malts and they must be right; it is a 40-whisky blend, after all. The Single Malts need not be from different distilleries; any distillery can provide tens of Single Malts, of the same or different ages.

The recognisable Grain Whisky is Cameronbridge, one of probably five. All whiskies named above are 12 YO or older. Talisker, most popular as a peated 10 YO, remains casked for two years more to contribute to the blend. This particular 12 YO, which is not of the peated variety, is not sold in the market, and has, sadly, not been used for over five years, with detrimental effect on the Blend.

The slightly smoky taste comes from the Cragganmore and Talisker (unpeated). The hint of peat comes primarily from Caol Ila, strengthened by Clynelish and Benrinnes; the smoothness comes from Cardhu, Glenkinchie, Blair Athol and the 4-5 Grain Whiskies that are used to tame and meld the malts perfectly. A 1-litre bottle of Black Label costs $ 28. A bottle of 0.70 L Caol Ila 12 YO costs $56, or $80 per litre. The Caol Ila 12 YO is far more expensive and Diageo is losing money on the peated malt diverted to making the Black and other Labels. The same is true for ALL other Single Malts that made up the once fabulous concoction of JW Black Label! The Malt whiskies tot up to 45-50%. The Grain whiskies, 49%, are also 12 YO. The last one percent is taken up by E150A Caramel colourant.

It is rated as an impressive whisky to share on any occasion, whether you're entertaining at home with friends or on a memorable night out. But it has lost top spot amongst 12 YO Blended Scotch whiskies simply because Diageo has run out of single malts that met the original recipe. No amount of experimenting with other single malts-up to 35 or even more of them can replicate the Extra Special Old Highland 12 YO, the original name of the Black Label till 1909. Dewar’s 12 YO, Grand Old Parr and Chivas Regal deluxe whiskies are rated higher than Black Label.

JOHNNIE WALKER DOUBLE BLACK LABEL: The turn of the millennium saw a trend towards peated and smoky whiskies. Using the Black Label as a baseline, peat and smoky single malts were introduced to the mix, while removing quite a few standard single malts. Strongly influenced by powerful West Coast and Island whiskies, Johnnie Walker Double Black is best enjoyed with a teaspoon of water to unlock its complex layers of smouldering spice and smoke. An impressive blend to share, whatever the occasion.

The heavier influence of the ‘big’ flavours of Scotland’s West Coast and Islands is immediately apparent, with swirls of peat smoke over rich raisins and fruits - apples, pears and citrus. These soften into sweet vanillas and spice, before developing into a warming finish of oak tannins and lingering smokiness.    

The International Whisky Competition is an event that takes place annually in Chicago in the first week of May, in which whiskies are blind tasted and rated by a professional tasting panel. The results are used to produce tasting notes for an International Whisky Guide. There is no Scotsman on the panel- it is entirely American. This esteemed panel selected Glenmorangie Signet NAS as the Whisky of the Year 2016 with 97 points and Johnnie Walker Double Black Label was awarded the Gold Medal in the Best Blended Scotch NAS (No Age Statement) category with 94 points, ahead of Johnnie Walker Blue Label (91.3 pts). JWBL managed only the Bronze Medal in the Best Blended Scotch Whisky 12 YO category with 89.8 points. That kills the Double Black vs Black Label controversy! That also confirms that Johnnie Walker Black Label is no longer the bar for premium Blended Scotch Whisky.

JW Double Black has an easier structure compared to Black Label, with important differences. The number of Single Malts and Grain Whiskies has reduced. It primarily uses the well-peated Talisker 10 YO and Caol Ila 12 YO, with the lightly peated Cragganmore, Clynelish 14 YO and Benrinnes in support. One or two Single Malts have been replaced. Single Malt from the new distillery at Roseisle that opened in 2006 produces 7-8 m litres a year (designed for 10 million litres), and a fair share of young malts join the group. All Single Malts in JWDBL are 8 YO and more, with a few drops of a couple of smoky peated Single Malts added: probably Caol Ila 8 YO and Lagavulin 8 YO. Peated whiskies are more expensive than non-peated expressions.

The peating process between kilning, drying and mashing is tricky and time consuming. Following the kilning, the peated malt is removed and stored in bins for five or six weeks. This allows the heat to dissipate naturally. Hot malt can affect the fermentation process negatively. The Malt whiskies tot up to 55-57%. Put together, these are the reasons why the brand costs $5-8 (12-20%) more than JW Black Label (non-discounted). In Bangkok, however, they cost the same.