THE EARLY DAYS OF JOHNNIE WALKER WHISKY
Johnnie Walker is the world's best-selling Scotch whisky brand by a virtually unbridgeable margin. Now part of the British behemoth Diageo plc, the story of the success of its founder, John 'Johnnie' Walker, is narrated with a fair amount of poetic licence and therefore deserves a more accurate reading.
John Walker (1805-1857) was a well off farmer's lad thrust into maturity too early in life. His father died in 1819, leaving him an orphan when he was just 14 years old and the family relocated from their farm on the outskirts of Kilmarnock town in East Ayrshire to the town centre itself in the Scottish Lowlands by 1820, having decided to invest the proceeds of the sale of their farm (reported variously as £417 and £537) in a grocery-cum-winery. His education truncated, the teenaged new Head of the family’s primary aim was to ensure their investment would succeed and their wealth proliferate, with all remaining family members also pitching in. The unfortunate turn of family events and concomitant revised focus deprived him of the best five formative years of his youth.
Parsimonious by nature—a not uncommon Scottish
trait—he worked 16-hour days, six days a week. Of those 16 hours, two were
spent learning how to manage ledgers and balance books, leaving him no leisurely moments to think about and chart their future. He had no time for foresight—his thought processes revolved solely around establishing and then growing his business, having started from ground zero. He was scrupulously honest, an endearing quality, which helped him with
his plans. He was fortunate to have the services of an ex-East India Company retired tea plantation official from Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) and Assam (NE India) as an assistant for a couple of years, who also proved to be a good teacher, and his initial gains were in the lucrative blended tea business. In an era when people married early, he had to perforce wait till the company was well settled before he wed in 1833, at the age of 28. He had five children, Margaret (1836-67); Alexander (1837-89); Robert (1840—); Elizabeth (1842—) and John (1845-75). His children entered this world with an advantage over their father. They were town-bred and went on to be better educated and it was his ambitious son Alexander ‘Alec’ Walker and his sons—John's grandsons—who actually created the Johnnie Walker legend and empire.
John's intense lifestyle caught up with him and he died relatively early, aged 52, in 1857. The others members of his family would, no doubt, have helped him manage the expanding grocery and ancillary services. There is, surprisingly, no mention of his other sons in the whisky trade. Apparently his genes did not contribute much to longevity, as all his children, where known, died young. His wife, Elizabeth, may well have outlived them all, reaching a grand 83 (1807-1890) !
Although lucrative, the expensive tea market was restricted to landed gentry and limited in scope. A teetotaller by choice, basic marketing sense saw him realise that the money lay in the liquor business and he rearranged his priorities accordingly. He traded in all spirits, including rum, brandy, gin and whisky manufactured by others. Once wed and fully established, he gradually drifted into mainly selling legally distilled whisky. These included whiskies from distilleries in booming Campbeltown on the Kintyre Peninsula; the Inner Hebridean Island of Islay with its pungent smoky flavour; Glenlivet, Cardhu and other Highland distilleries. Once the Stein and Coffey Stills became legal apparatus circa 1830,
grain whiskies became very easy to distill in rather short timeframes and were easily available. He sold
these whiskies as well, but as an entirely separate category as demanded by law. As spirit off the stills, these were undrinkable in their early years and had to be blended with softening syrups,
juices, honey and botanicals and also watered down to proof and just under (57-52% ABV.) He, however,
guaranteed quality, thereby retaining and expanding his customer base.
By 1852, grain whiskies had improved with advancements in technology to a high standard, so much so that they proved to be quite mild in taste, if somewhat thin. But they were found to be a good host spirit in which to marry the relatively strong and multifaceted malt whiskies and polish the rough edges. The Irish whisky industry, then the dominant force in global whisky production, considered the spirit to be dismissively inferior in taste profile to their own triple-distilled and smooth pot whiskies and not worthy of the appellation 'whisky'.
Of the spirits
he dealt with, malt whisky was the most popular, sold at a staggering 11 over proof or higher, (111+ proof, equivalent to 63.5-65%
ABV), to be cut half and half with Schweppes soda or water. By then, he had
picked up the nuances of blending and started selling blended malts-but only made
to order. He relied on Cardhu and Glenlivet (Speyside) whiskies to make his blends far smoother than the ‘fiery’ Islay, Campbeltown, Lowland and other whiskies
also in the market.
16 and 8 oz Bottles
He minimised the use of high-volume glass bottles for his
whisky; they were far too expensive. Glass bottles were charged an inordinately high tax; his regulars thus used their own glass bottles, having bought them first-hand as new bottles of whisky of their choice,
usually in convenient 8oz (230ml) and 16 oz (460ml) volumes, to be refilled on an as-required basis. The largest size in the days when glass-blowers created bottles was usually 28oz (800ml), but these were extremely flimsy and fragile. Mishandling would result in breakage and serious loss in a cost-conscious environment. All his bottles carried his authorised stamp on their bases, as was the prevailing custom then.
He used ewers and ceramic containers instead for his well to do patrons, with volumes in gallons and quarts thereof (1.12L). He also used small casks known as ankers (~8 gallons) to transport whisky to and from local dealers and traders, but not to mature or store it. The arrival of the railway in 1843 would help him in the years ahead to expand, while the proximity of the sea and seaports would help his future generations to attain yet unforeseeable global popularity and leadership.
The railway connected him with Glasgow, London, and beyond, taking his whisky to the many that developed a taste for it, but,
equally importantly, bringing in oak casks of all pedigrees he so desperately
required to increase transaction volumes and consequent additional storage, apart from routine victuals for his grocery.
When he felt he had become prosperous enough to afford glass bottles, he decided to blend his own whisky, circa 1850, with a rather plebian name-Walker's
Kilmarnock Whisky. By then, his name had spread to nearby cities and he started
to sell his brand of whisky on a reciprocal basis with other prominent grocers in those cities. A member of the freemasons and the local traders' associations, he also became a member of a loose and informal Grocer’s association in Scotland. They felt lucky to be associated — though long distance and infrequently — with an Edinburgh Blender and Wine Merchant, Andrew Usher, the principal sales agent of George Smith’s Glenlivet whisky, who
would soon become a distiller of grain whisky and a blender. Usher had an
outreach into the corridors of power in London through Glenlivet owner George Smith’s landowner and financer, the Duke of Gordon.
An Old Kilmarnock Bottle 1867
In 1853, he received exciting news through the
grapevine about happenings in London. An Act named the Forbes-Mackenzie Act had
been passed easing blending, but in Bond. Though the Hansard
(the official record of Parliamentary debates) was introduced in 1803, it
remained a selective record of debates until it became the Official Report in
1909 and was often misquoted or misunderstood. All grocers were disappointed
when actual details came across months later in print.
The Forbes-Mackenzie Act 1853, as The Licensing (Scotland) Act 1853 (16 & 17 Vict. c.67) came to be known, when read with An Act to Impose Additional Duties on Spirits in Scotland and Ireland…(16 & 17 Vict. c. 37) of 1853, imposed regulatory timings on
licenced liquor sales premises and defined the taxes to be paid on the full
quantity of spirits contained in any one or more casks in any warehouse, while
allowing the distiller or proprietor of such spirits… ‘from time to time to
rack or draw off such spirits into any other cask or casks, provided that no
less a quantity than ten gallons shall be racked into any one of the
last-mentioned casks…’ But only distilleries and breweries could take advantage
of this Act.
In 1957, Usher informed them that a Spirits Act had
been approved in principle by then Prime Minister H Temple and the Chancellor
of the Exchequer Gladstone was under pressure from distillers of grain whisky, principally from the Lowlands, to allow blending of Grain whiskies with Malt whiskies in Bond. What he didn’t tell them was that there
was severe counter-pressure from the five-times larger Irish whisky industry
not to pass the Act. Some grocers, but not John Walker, started blending
their malt and grain whiskies in their stores then. John Walker died in 1857 and Alexander 'Alec' assumed charge. That year, profits from wines and spirits represented just 8 percent of the firm's income. The Spirits Act permitting blending of grain and malt whiskies in Bond was finally passed in 1860 with Irish disapproval and resentment but limited such vatting to distillers and brewers only. In an unusual quirk of fate, both John and Alec died at the age of 52.
Alexander had been sent to formally study the blending of tea as an apprentice with a tea merchant in Glasgow, developing—aided by his father—a complete sense of blending and extended it to the spirit industry. He was keen on moving on from a grocery to a wholesale whisky dealer. Now that he was no longer restrained by
his less ambitious father, he started blending whisky in storage in 1860, as he
was still registered as a grocer. Grocers were finally permitted in 1863 to
blend whiskies in Bond under an extension to the Chevalier-Cobden Act of 1860.
Alec moved out of the grocery trade and began his shift to whisky, gradually exiting other spirits.
Alexander Walker pulled off a marketing coup when he
was able to convince Captains of sea-going vessels to sell his Old Kilmarnock whisky
in their bars, for a commission. The increased movement of his dumpy 28oz
bottles by rail and by sea confirmed his major fear—his bottles were proving
short-lived and breaking enroute, causing considerable loss. His first attempt
to make their bases square with each side equal to the diameter of his rounded
bottles made the already dumpy and shabby bottles look squat and positively
ugly in dim lighting in bars. This led to his first masterstroke as designer.
He slimmed the bottles down to stand elegantly tall. They could now be tightly packed
in less space, reducing the threat of breakages by over 75% and also the
storage space per carton of twelve bottles, equating to more bottles per cargo. As the art of manufacturing bottles improved with time, he found he could both increase volume to quart bottles
(1.12L) and thicken each side by a minuscule amount to strengthen them further,
reducing breakages to near zero. These bottles cost him more than the average but proved to be extremely cost-effective improvements that improved his return on investment markedly.
Even so, there was an unforeseen consequence to their standing tall. They obscured the bottles in the rows behind them, so they were moved to the rearmost row of shelves in bars. This meant that their names could not be seen. This major drawback led to the birth of the second label on his bottles, albeit small. It carried only the name in legible size of letters and was pasted on the neck of the bottle where it was prominently visible. The first ever label was white in colour, a harbinger of things to come. In five years, the Old Kilmarnock crossed the 100,000 gallon per year sales mark, a testament to Alec’s business acumen and creativity.
Alexander Walker was finally able to blend his stocks
of grain and malt whiskies and, starting 1865, bottle them for sale as a five-year-old blended whisky, now named Walker’s Old Highland Whisky, copyrighted as
such in 1867. The introduction of grain whisky into the blend of malts reduced
the fierce strength of the whisky and was accepted as a welcome feature. His
whiskies were bottled at proof, equivalent to 57.1% ABV.
The five-year waiting period was to prove a blessing in
disguise. He was able to convince captains of naval vessels to use his stocks in
transit overseas to new markets as
ballast and serve them as good quality whisky in their bars, for a commission. Once
his whisky gained popularity, some bottles were brought back to the front shelf
in bars everywhere.
Competition was fierce with every seller smartening up their bottles and Alec once again used his fertile imagination to bring
his bottles into the public eye. He invested in visual promotion by increasing
the size of his main label to accommodate much larger bright golden bronze colour
lettering encased in an equally prominent golden border. Since it no longer fitted one face of his square bottle, he had no option but to
tilt the label to fit it on one face stylishly without appearing to do so and display its contents on one face of the bottle and found 24°
exactly right and aesthetically pleasing. This tilt was upwards L > R, signalling
strength, stamina and determination. He trademarked this design in 1877. What is important to note is that the significance of the oak used in the creating of casks was still unknown.
Alec wanted to create even older whiskies and started experimenting on a primary scale, intending to increase bottling age in steps of one year. He started by selecting the whiskies that made up his Old Highland Whisky at five and a half years of age or slightly more. Unfortunately, when married for six to eight months in their final casks, the quality of the output was not superior to the 5 YO. Evidently the casks used for the last stage of their blending were not of the requisite class. Specific-to-task cask management was in its infancy.
Three unrelated factors were to help the industry. Firstly, fresh oak barrels were lying abandoned in France between 1860-1900 because of the Phylloxera devastation and could be used freely in the industry,
particularly for grain whisky. Secondly, the Scots, Irish and other settlers in
America, including English, Welsh, German and Frenchmen, began to distill
their own whisky, using corn as the basic grain. The best of these whiskies
came from the distillers using water from the Ohio River. The principal port on
the Ohio River was Maysville, in present day Kentucky, from where whisky and
other products were shipped within America and overseas. Thirdly, the use of Sherry in Great Britain also diminished, leaving their butts stranded around the country.
Fortunately for Alec, that export of American whiskies overseas was in the
same ships that Walker had used for his exports. He and his team located
barrels of whisky that had come from America and Spain and bought them off once their
contents had been bottled or sold. They were told that the coopers in America
would deep-char and toast the casks before using them, a factor that would influence decisions
in the next generation of Walkers. Alec found that the freshly imported barrels
were a good choice to restart his failed experiment and he was thus able to
create a 6-year-old whisky of premium quality. Sadly, he died in 1889, aged 52, leaving his sons Alexander II and George in charge. By now, distillers and whisky blenders were beginning to understand the difference between the types of casks used and the importance of the cooper.
The acquisition of Cardhu distillery in 1893 changed
the Johnnie Walker trajectory to the best possible. When added to the blends in
use, it changed the overall profile markedly. The Special Old Highland,
featuring a red label was born in 1896. An exceptionally smooth and mellow
whisky, it allowed Alex to reduce the strength to 25 under proof, equivalent to
42.8% ABV. The whisky could now be drunk neat, with a few drops of water or soda
or with a cube or two of ice. The aroma of the 9 YO was overpowering, able to
fill a room with its enticing qualities. It could not, however, be aged
further.
It was only after the introduction of freshly charred second-fill European Oak barrels that the 9YO whisky could be aged further, again by one full year. But Alex went a step further. Instead of European Oak, he used American Oak barrels for the flourish and was able put together malt and grain whiskies aged eleven and a half years or more and let them marry in that Oak cask for eight months to get a final blended whisky aged 12 years. The age stated on the bottle was equal to or more than the age of the youngest component whisky. By 1906, the company could boast three main brands: Old Highland White Label 5 YO, Special Old Highland Red Label 9 YO and Extra Special Old Highland Black Label 12 YO. In 1909, the company carried out its final rebranding, bringing out the Johnnie Walker 6 YO White Label, 10 YO Red Label and 12 YO Black Label. The 'Old Highland' was laid to rest. Surprisingly, the Johnnie Walker brands of whisky did not use the term ‘Scotch’ till as late as 1939.
A year earlier, in 1908, the slogan "Born 1820—Still going Strong!" was created. That done, the Walkers next wanted to convey the brand’s unique point of view visually. They held a competition for suitable artwork in anticipation of the renaming of their brands, but nothing quite fit the bill. A cartoonist named Tom Browne eventually came up with the Striding Man logo, a figure used in their advertisements to this day in honour of the founder and given the same name.
The Striding Man: Browne reportedly sketched his 'Striding Man' on the back of a menu card; Alexander and George adopted the concept of the ‘Striding Man’ immediately. The Striding Man was critical because it differentiated Walker from other Scotch purveyors, which tended to play on Scotland’s traditions of bearded men in kilts playing bagpipes, an image that lacked universality. Here was a gentleman on the move. With one stroke, John Walker the Victorian grocer became Johnnie Walker, the Edwardian dandy.
ADDENDA
We have a conundrum here. The Johnnie Walker Special Old Highland bottle and carton: The term 'Red Label' is visible on the neck mini-label, but missing from the main label, even though it is coloured Red. There is no age statement visible anywhere. The Striding Man, sketched in 1909, is more than visible. The 1937 bottle of Red Label carried an age statement of 8 years. Well, well...
HONOURING THE 52 YEAR OLD WALKERS
Johnnie Walker has released a limited edition 52-year-old blended whisky that contains spirits mainly from closed distilleries, in honour of both John 'Johnnie' Walker and Alexander 'Alec' Walker, who both lived for 52 years. Limited to 200 bottles, Johnnie Walker Aged 52 Years blends six rare malt whiskies and two grain whiskies from some of the oldest casks in the brand’s reserves.Johnnie Walker master blender, Dr Emma Walker, and her team of experts selected some of their oldest and most precious casks of Highland single malt and Lowland single grain whiskies for this ultra-rare release, also a first for Emma.
The malt whiskies used are from Glenury Royal, Glenlochy, Glen Albyn (all closed), Brora (closed 1983, reopened 2021) and the working Blair Athol &Dalwhinnie distilleries; the grain whiskies come from Cambus and Carsebridge distilleries, both closed. Six of these distilleries operated during either John or Alexander Walker’s lifetimes, with only Dalwhinnie and Glenlochy opening shortly after Alexander died in 1889. Every whisky was distilled in 1972 or earlier, making it one of the oldest ever age-stated Johnnie Walker releases.
What is not really understood is that in such aged whiskies, the grain whiskies play a critical role. They need to be extremely fine in and by themselves, with distinguishable and subtle individual characteristics yet remain flexible to accept distinctly differently styled malt whiskies and blend with them to accentuate their individual strengths without displaying any grainy texture during their consumption.
In its heyday, the now-demolished Lowland Cambus distillery’s grain whisky was highly regarded by blenders. In an advertisement placed by DCL in The Daily Mail in 1906, Cambus Pure Grain Whisky was described as ‘the whisky with an individuality – notably different to all others in peculiar delicacy and charm of flavour – mild and mellow.
Carsebridge, closed in 1983, has only ever been bottled as a single grain with high age statements by independent bottlers. Its 52 year old release in 2018, bottled under the “Sovereign” label for K&L Wines, is described as amazing, dried flowers and Makassar oil with dark brandied raisins, dark plum, caramel, smooth, warming…Patience in a barrel.
Together, the single grain whiskies from Cambus and Carsebridge introduce rich vanilla, butterscotch, dark dried fruit and spice to the blend, while tea leaves and menthol add layers of depth.
Blair Athol, the heart and soul of Bell’s blended whiskies, provides intensity with fruit-forward notes of raisins, currants, and orange peel, balanced by wood spice and tropical fruit.
The addition of Glenury Royal and Glenlochy spirit to the blend results in the whisky gaining richness and texture, with flavours of berries, confectionery fruits, and oiliness. Glen Albyn and Dalwhinnie contribute salinity, cured meat, and cacao, while Brora imparts soft smoke, blue cheese, and deep complexity.
Put together in a homogenous mix, the rare aromas, flavours, and character in this blend, combined with their shared age and small number, make this super-limited edition of 200 bottles a testament to the art of whisky blending.
Tasting Notes
Nose: A soft note of rich clotted cream and plump blackcurrants, accompanied by redcurrant and more biscuity, almost leather-like notes.
Palate: The rich oiliness of the texture is luxurious — borderline decadent — with stone fruit, spice, and lingering menthol notes akin to after dinner chocolate mints. Through it all is the gentle wisp of smoke that is the backbone of the Johnnie Walker family.
Finish: Long with a pleasant dryness, notes of freshly cracked black pepper, and a light, comforting warmth, reminiscent of dying embers.
Bottled at 41.2% ABV, evidence of how much the Angel’s have imbibed as their Share over half a century, the 52-year-old blend retails for £23,500 (US$25,000) and can be purchased through Diageo private client teams and selected luxury retail outlets.
