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Wednesday 13 March 2024

WHAT'S IN A NAME?

 WHISKEY VS WHISKY II

The Irish were known to have produced uisce beatha in the 12th century. It is believed that Irish monks brought the technique of distilling perfumes back to Ireland from their travels to southern Europe around 1,000 AD. The Irish then modified this technique to obtain a drinkable spirituous potion. Irish monks were qualified distillers of the generic Aqua Vitae.

The first written records of aqua vitae in Ireland date back to 1324 and come from a medieval manuscript called the red book of Ossory written by the Bishop of Ossory, Richard Ledred, which shows Uisce Beatha being produced for consumption. More exceptionally, it contains a lengthy medical treatise on aqua vitae. The reasons for its inclusion in the register were more medicinal, perhaps in some way linked to the Black Death that ravaged Kilkenny in 1348 and which was supposed to have been exported by travellers from England. Nevertheless it does provide the earliest known recipe for distillation known to exist in any Irish manuscript and its content of is particular contemporary interest to Ireland’s whiskey industry.

England also suffered a series of the 'Black Death' plagues, starting 1348, having arrived by sea from its province of Gascony, part of south-eastern France, which country had been hit by itinerants along the trade routes across Europe from Asia. The disease ravaged England intermittently up to 1362 and every fifty years thereafter. The Irish monks went across to help and carried the art of distillation across the sea.

The next documented record of whiskey in Ireland was in 1405; The Annals of Clonmacnoise record an annotation that the head of a clan died after "taking a surfeit of aqua vitae" at Christmas. By 1556, whiskey was widespread, as an Act passed by the English Parliament declared whiskey to be "a drink nothing profitable to be drunken daily and used, is now universally throughout this realm made". Both spellings of whisky were used freely; it was by convention or prevailing practice, not law.


In 1608, King James I granted a licence to Sir Thomas Phillips, a landowner in County Antrim. He established the Old Bushmills Distillery. This distillery lays claim to being the oldest surviving grant of licence to distill in the world. In 1779, an Act was introduced by London, taxing distilleries on monthly output based on pure theory. It was assumed that a 500-gallon pot still would produce 33,075 gallons a month without exception. At that time, there were 1,228 registered distilleries in Ireland; however, by 1790, this number had fallen to 246, and by 1821, there were just 32 licensed distilleries in operation. This had the effect of concentrating licit distillation in a smaller number of distilleries based mainly in the larger urban centres, such as Cork and Dublin, which offered better markets for legal producers. Their liquor was called Parliament whiskey.

In the rural areas distillation became a more illicit activity, in particular in the northwest of Ireland where agricultural lands were poorer and poitín (illicit spirit) provided a supplemental source of income to the tenant farmers, an income which landlords were again slow to curtail as it would have weakened their abilities to pay rent. The scale of this illicit activity was such that one surveyor estimated that duty was paid on only 2% of the spirit consumed in the northwestern provinces of Ulster and Connaught, while Aeneas Coffey (an excise officer at the time, and later inventor of the Coffey Still) estimated that there were over 800 illicit stills in operation in Inishowen, County Donegal alone. By contrast, illicit distillation in Munster and Leinster was less extensive.

In the early 1800s, Ireland was at the forefront of whiskey production, supplying 60% of the world’s supply. As production methods and techniques evolved, and with the increased availability of steam power, larger and bigger pot stills became the norm, with the number of distilleries in Ireland growing from 40 in 1823, to 86 in 1840. Ireland was the largest spirit market in the United Kingdom, with demand for spirit exceeding that of more populous England and Scotland. Therefore, as capacities expanded, Ireland became the largest producer of spirits in the United Kingdom; and Dublin, then the largest market for spirits in Ireland, emerged as a major distilling centre. By 1823, Dublin boasted the five largest licensed distilleries in the country. At their peak, the distilleries in Dublin would grow to become the largest in the world, with a combined output of almost 10 million gallons per annum, the largest of which, Roe's Thomas Street Distillery, had an output exceeding 2 million gallons per annum, more than the total volume of whiskey produced in all of Speyside. By 1878, the reputation of Dublin whiskey was such that Distillers Company Ltd., a Scottish distilling firm, having built a distillery in Dublin, claimed that Dublin whiskey could sell for a 25% premium over other Irish whiskies, and that it had a demand five times that of Scotch at the time. Although these figures are probably inflated, they give an indication of the esteem in which Dublin whiskey was held, even by Scottish distillers. 

Roe's Thomas Street Distillery

During this period, the four largest Dublin distillingfirms, of John Jameson, William Jameson, John Powers and George Roe (all family-run, and collectively known as the ‘Big Four’) came to dominate the Irish distilling landscape. The chief output of these distilleries, known as single or ‘pure pot still’ whiskey, was made from a mix of malted and unmalted barley, and solely distilled in pot stills. The style, having initially emerged as a means of avoiding a 1785 tax on malt, endured although the tax had been later repealed. In fact, even by the late 1880s, only two of Ireland's then 28 existing distilleries were producing single malt whiskey, the rest steadfast in their devotion to ‘pure pot still’.

The main turning points was the patenting in 1832 of the Coffey still by Aeneas Coffey. The Coffey still, was a continuous distillation apparatus which offered an improvement on the traditional pot still. Although similar continuous stills had been proposed in the past, including by other Irish distillers themselves, the Coffey still was the most effective, and soon entered widespread use. Coffey stills removed some of the volatile components responsible for flavour and were used for distilling grain whisky virtually non-stop, with massive output capacity.

The adoption of the Coffey still in Scotland was indirectly assisted by Ireland's Great Famine of the 1840s, which led to the repealing of the Corn Laws, which between 1815 and 1846 had restricted the import of cheaper foreign grain into Britain and Ireland. After the laws were repealed in 1846, cheap American corn could be imported and used to produce neutral spirit at 94.8% ABV in Coffey stills. When distilled for drinking, the taste would depend on the mash bill used to distill the spirit and sold as grain whiskey.

Most of the high-strength spirit would find its way in industrial and medical use. Grain spirit, though weak in taste, could also be aimed at blending with traditional pot still derived spirit to produce a cheaper "blended whiskey". This blended whiskey, which was less intense in taste than pure pot still, was to prove popular in Britain, capturing much market share from Irish pure pot still whiskey. Such blending was finally permitted in bond under The Scotch Whisky Act of 1860 as amended in 1863.

Despite changing tastes and falling market share, the adoption of Coffey stills was stubbornly resisted by Irish distillers for many years, with some arguing for restrictions on their use. For instance, in 1878, the big Dublin distillers jointly published a pamphlet entitled Truths about Whisky, in which they referred to the output of Coffey stills as "Good, bad or indifferent; but it cannot be whiskey, and it ought not to be sold under that name". In 1904, almost seventy years after the Coffey still had been patented, the Senior Manager of Ireland's largest rural distillery, Allman's of Bandon, placed an outright ban on the introduction of Coffey stills at his distillery, in the face of opposition from a director.

In the period when Irish whiskey was at its zenith, it would have been difficult to imagine that Scotch, then produced by small-scale producers and almost unheard of outside of Scotland, would soon become the world's preeminent drink, while Irish whiskey, then the world's most popular whiskey, would enter a century of decline, culminating with all of Dublin's great distilleries shutting their doors. That said, the Scots were by far the most aggressive salesmen, with a ready market in English Colonies overseas.

Irish whiskey has a smoother finish as opposed to the smoky, earthy overtones common to Scotch whisky, which come largely from drying the malted barley using peat smoke. Peat is rarely used in the malting process outside of Scotland. There are notable exceptions to these rules in both countries. Examples include Connemara peated Irish malt whiskey from the Cooley Distillery in Cooley, County Louth; Pearse Whiskey from Pearse Lyons Distillery in Dublin; and Dunville's peated from Echlinville Distillery.

The Big Four, proud of their existing produce, scoffed at the use of the Coffey still, repeatedly questioning if its product, grain whiskey, which they termed neutral or silent (i.e. tasteless) spirit, could even be termed whiskey. Their distilleries were among the most advanced in the world. The distillers were simply steadfast in the belief that their existing methods yielded a superior whiskey. For instance, John Jameson carried out a trial of a Coffey still at his distillery, but chose to not adopt the technology because he was not satisfied with the quality of product it produced. Therefore, in the face of opposition in Ireland, Coffey offered his still to the English gin and Scottish whiskey distillers, who proved more receptive, and where the technology gained widespread use.

The Big Four demanded that their spirit be called whiskey and the shoddy diluted blended whisky of Scotland be called whisky. When they saw the impending decline of their output’s sales in the face of rapidly increasing popularity of Scotch whisky, they changed their demand and asked that their spirits be called whisky and that the other spirits similar in nature be termed whiskey. A Royal Commission was set up in 1908 to decide the issue, among others. Over three years, this Commission found no cause for concern, given the drop in sales of Irish the product and permitted the Scots to call their products either whisky or whiskey as they chose and the Irish could then use the other. The Irish then got their original demand accepted, but not without rancour. It was only in 1960 that the Irish adopted the term whiskey.

The Old Midleton Distillery in which the Jameson Experience is located began life as a woollen mill in Midleton, County Cork, Ireland, set over 15 acres before being converted to a military barracks and subsequently a distillery in 1825 by Murphy Brothers. The Murphys invested a considerable sum in establishing a large distillery, which was to become known as James Murphy and Company. A large undershot timber water wheel was installed to help power the distillery (which was replaced in 1852, by an iron water wheel which survives on-site to this day. In addition, a mammoth 31,618 gallon pot still was constructed at the distillery which remains the largest ever built. The pot still was so large, that it needed to be assembled on-site with the distillery built around it. The distillery operated until 1975, when a new distillery was constructed alongside it to house the consolidated operations of three former whiskey-making rivals, John Jameson & Son, John Powers & Son, and Cork Distilleries Company (owners of the Midlelton Distillery), who had come together to form Irish Distillers in 1966.

THE MIDLETON POTSTILL

Difference From Scotch Whisky:

(i) Irish whiskey is made from grains, water, and yeast.  The key grains are barley (malted and unmalted) and corn. The use of unmalted barley is one of the main differences between Irish whiskey and Scotch production.  Unmalted barley contributes a nutty and oily characteristics, and is used only in the production of Irish Pot Still Whiskey. Peat was not used in the kilning process, though a few current day whiskeys do use a small portion of peat.

(ii) Whiskey produced by batch distillation can be either double or triple distilled. Double distillation in similar to the process used to produce Scotch whisky. Triple pot distillation is closely associated with Ireland although it’s not a legal requirement.  The extra distillation produces a more rectified and hence a lighter style of spirit.  Distillers usually adopt other methods such as the use of multiple mash bills, and different cuts (heads and tails) to create a variety of styles.

(iii) For distilleries like Roe & Co  where triple distillation is carried out, the (low wines) from the wash still (Vision) are transferred onto a second still sometimes known as the intermediate still or feints still (Virtue). The still is heated and as in the wash still, the vapours start to rise, but this time, as the vapours are condensed back into a liquid, the distiller will separate or cut the liquid into 3 parts. The first of these is known as the heads, this liquid is collected and will be redistilled on the next run. The next portion is known as the heart or centre cut and this will be the liquid that will go onto the spirit still. Finally, the third cut is the tails, also to be redistilled on the next run.  Spirit still (Valour) distillation is much the same as the intermediate still distillation where the liquid is broken into three portions or cuts, heads/fore shots, heart/centre and the tails. The heart section is the portion that will make whiskey, the liquid is known as new make spirit and has an ABV of approximately 80-86%. Before being filled into casks, the strength of this liquid is reduced to approximately 63.5%.

Types of Irish Whiskey

There are four different varieties of Irish whiskey:

(i) Pot Still Irish Whiskey

A combination of unpeated malted barley (min. 30%) and unmalted barley (min. 30%) with other unmalted cereals (e.g. corn) distilled in pot stills twice or three times.

(ii) Irish Malt Whiskey

Produced using 100% malted barley and distilled in pot stills twice or three times.

(iii) Irish Grain Whiskey

Produced from malted barley (max. 30%), unmalted barley and other unmalted cereals including corn and wheat; distilled in column stills.

(iv) Blended Irish Whiskey

Blend of two or more different whiskey types in any combination (Irish Pot Whiskey, Irish Malt Whiskey or Irish Grain Whiskey).

 

Sunday 28 January 2024

THE GLENLIVET CELEBRATES 200 YEARS

 The Glenlivet’s 12 Year Old 200 Year
Anniversary Edition

“Scotch Whisky is a mystery, a magic of locality. The foreigner may import not only Scottish barley but Scottish water, Scottish distilling apparatus, and set a Scotsman to work on them, expecting wonders, but the glory evaporates: it will not travel.”
H. Charles Craig, The Scotch Whisky Industry Record, 1994

In eras past, more specifically 1630-1830, ordinary Highland Scots who distilled whisky were jailed arbitrarily, taxed unfairly and relentlessly hunted down by excise agents of the government. Many courageous Highland Scots, in the face of the unjust legislation by Parliament, sacrificed livelihoods and homes in the turmoil. A few even perished defending the right to make it. Nonetheless, Scotch whisky, both as a local libation and a national industry, flourished inside and outside the law. Because of Scotch whisky’s astounding international market success against the seemingly insurmountable odds of over-taxation, wars, Prohibition, fierce whisky industry competition, and temperance, Scotland has more than survived. It has prevailed while somehow miraculously retaining its special, innate national aura.

The 1823 Excise Act triggered an explosion in the whisky industry. After more than a century evading the King’s justice, the pioneers of Scottish distilling were bought the appropriate license to ply their trade. The required fee of £10, and the more agreeable rate of tax than ever before (of 2 shillings 3 pence per gallon), was enough to lure scores of whisky makers to the right side of the law. Once paid up, they could secure investment, expand operations and plan for the future. Among the first to obtain a licence in early 1824 was a tacksman named George Smith from Upper Drummin in the Livet valley – the Glen Livet, from Gleann-liobh-aite in Gaelic, “valley of the smooth flowing one.” His distillery was set up that year and in January 1825, George’s new distillery at Upper Drumin commenced rolling out The Glenivet whisky.

Typically, a Highlands tacksman leased scores of acres of arable tracts of land directly from the landlord and then sublet to lesser tenants the sections of the parcel that he and his own family didn’t farm or use for grazing land. George Smith had taken farmland from the Duke of Gordon, who, at the seat of power in London, would ultimately push for tax reforms and legalising distillation for a modest fee.

As a legitimate businessman, Smith became a leader in the emergent industry of Highland distilling. Even in those early days his spirit had a serious reputation among drinkers, who prized its fruity and elegant character. At this time there were many distilleries trading under the name ‘Glenlivet’ – the term having become a byword for illicit whisky from Speyside over the years. But in the 1880s the Smith family won a legal battle for their whisky to be recognised as the definite article: ‘The’ Glenlivet.

This celebratory single malt comprises 100% American Oak Matured first fill casks, hand-picked to celebrate the 200th anniversary of The Glenlivet. This 12 Year Old Special Edition is presented at 43% ABV in honour of The Glenlivet distillery's 200th Year Anniversary. A unique take on their classic 12 Year Old, this Glenlivet whisky is a celebration of Glenlivet’s journey forever forwards.

As they initiated celebration of their exciting 200-year milestone, they invited artists to join them in breaking tradition to craft a commemorative Limited-Edition design of The Glenlivet. They partnered with an online crowdsourcing platform to source these independent artists from around the world. Across 3 weeks over 400 designs were submitted from artists in 42 different countries. The winner came from Bogota, Colombia showcasing a unique illustrative style with a design that mapped the 200 years of The Glenlivet.

A truly limited edition; this is an important whisky to collect for any fan of The Glenlivet.

COLOUR: Bright, vibrant gold.

NOSE: Fresh tangerines, marmalade, pineapple slices, hazelnut praline, sweet vanilla, crème caramel and subtle floral notes.

PALATE: Ripe, juicy pear, sweet orange marmalade, coconut shavings, creamy vanilla and toasted almonds.

FINISH: Silky and sweet with enduring sweet oakiness.

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Thursday 25 January 2024

BOWMORE EYES CHINA

Bowmore Islay 2024 : Leap to Greatness

Ushering in the Year of the Dragon, Leo Burnett Singapore and Beam Suntory present a new, special edition packaging for Bowmore Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky, featuring a determined carp and its  transformation into a powerful dragon.

Bowmore is located in the centre of Islay and occupies a central role in the island’s whiskies. The distillery has retained its own floor maltings which account for 40% of its needs and when mixed with malt from the mainland results in a medium peated spirit.  Its smoke, reminiscent of beach bonfires, mingles with a distinctly saline note, flowers, cereal, citrus and underneath a touch of tropical fruit. It is this character which, when matured in refill casks for a long period of time, becomes the primary aroma, the peat seemingly disappearing completely.

A significant percentage of the make is aged in ex-Sherry butts which take Bowmore off in another direction – one of dark fruits, chocolate, coffee, citrus and smoke. The extensive range picks and chooses between these extremes. A significant percentage of the distillery’s whisky is matured on the island, with the distillery’s No.1 Vaults being held to have the most extraordinary microclimate. This chill, damp environment – the vault is below the level of Loch Indaal and one wall makes up the town’s sea wall – is seen as ideal for long-term maturation.

For this Year of the Dragon 2024 limited edition packaging, Bowmore tells us the story of its journey to greatness through a legend deeply embedded in Chinese culture. Bowmore is a Scottish brand that is less known in Asia. However, there are parallels between the Chinese legend and Bowmore’s history, where a shared lesson emerges: that greatness belongs to those who persevere. The story of transformation is heightened by the pack mechanism itself which, when opened, reveals the majestic dragon at end of the journey, alongside Bowmore’s own triumphant creation: a Single Malt Scotch created over centuries of refinement.

With a rich legacy spanning over 240 years, Bowmore’s resilience and determination have been pivotal in shaping the distillery’s history. Even today, Bowmore remains dedicated to the art of handcrafted whisky, faithfully passing down the traditions, skills, and expertise forged in 1779 during the earliest days of Scotch whisky.

To capture this spirit of resilience, Leo Burnett Singapore found inspiration in an old Chinese proverb: “鲤鱼龙门 (The carp has leapt through the Dragon’s Gate).

The proverb tells of a humble carp’s journey to conquer the peak of a raging waterfall. Braving a turbulent journey, with waves cascading from above, the carp ultimately prevails in a final, triumphant leap at the peak, that miraculously transforms it into a majestic dragon – underscoring the enduring truth that only those who persevere can attain greatness.

                               

Singaporean illustrator Kenn Lam captures the moment of the carp’s transformation into a triumphant dragon, revealed as the package glides open to reveal the Bowmore Single Malt nestled inside.

On the back of the box, an original spring couplet (a two-line poem traditionally written during Lunar New Year) tells the story of the carp and the dragon, written in hand-drawn, contemporary Chinese calligraphy.

The 2024 special edition packaging for the Lunar New Year features the Core 15-Year-Old bottle (available in Canada only), and an exclusive 18-Year-Old bottle (available exclusively in travel retail doors in  China, Malaysia, South Korea, Thailand, Singapore and Macau, among others). The pack is currently available for purchase, leading up to the Lunar New Year.

The 2023 special edition packaging was recently awarded the Bronze award for illustration by World Brand Design Society, and earned itself a shortlist at New York Festivals Advertising Awards, and several metals at other notable award shows.



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Monday 22 January 2024

ANOTHER GROUSE BUT EQUALLY FAMOUS

 The Famous Grouse Limited Edition
IN CelebratION OF 15 Years With RSPB

The Famous Grouse, Scotland’s No.1 whisky for over 40 years, has unveiled its limited-edition bottle design in celebration of the remarkable 15-year collaboration between The Famous Grouse and the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB). Starting in 2008, the partnership with the RSPB has helped to plant 150,000 trees, improve 85,000 acres of land and, most importantly, create new homes for grouse, Scotland’s National Bird.

The limited-edition wrap has been designed by Edinburgh-based artist and animator Nuria Boj, whose works combine dense, highly detailed compositions with vibrant colours, dimension and movement. Taking inspiration from the iconic illustration by Phillipa Gloag, daughter of The Famous Grouse founder Matthew Gloag who drew the very first Grouse-named Gilbert- which adorns every bottle to this day, Boj has re-imagined the bottle design in her signature vibrant style whilst still incorporating The Famous Grouse logo, the landscape from Abernethy (home of the Grouse) and Gilbert, who features on every bottle.

For 15 years, The Famous Grouse has partnered with the RSPB to protect grouse habitats all over the UK. This limited-edition release tells a story of shared values, environmental stewardship, and a dedication to protecting our feathered friends, but most hunted bird.

Commemorating the commitment to wildlife conservation, the back label proudly displays the RSPB logo alongside a heartfelt copy underlining the 15-year collaboration. It also features a QR code offering an interactive experience for drinkers to learn more about The Famous Grouse-RSPB partnership. By scanning the code, enthusiasts can delve into the rich history and shared initiatives that have marked this decade-and-a-half-long commitment.

The bottle marks the first limited-edition wrap created with the RSPB and artist collaboration for the brand as The Famous Grouse seeks to warm the hearts of existing consumers while recruiting new consumers into the category. This is further supported with the new Berry Forager serve suggestion, inspired by the Scottish countryside. Consumers can visit their site to find out more about the RSPB partnership, Nuria Boj, and the sleeve recycling recommendations.

The collaboration between the RSPB and The Famous Grouse is one that marks 15 years of shared dedication to wildlife conservation in Scotland. Launching this limited-edition bottle commemorates a truly momentous milestone aimed at captivating the interest of whisky and wildlife enthusiasts alike and show pride in contributing to the ongoing support for a worthy cause held close to their hearts.

RSPB has worked with The Famous Grouse for over 15 years to protect species and habitats across the UK. This partnership focusses on restoring nature in the heart of the Cairngorms from the forest floor to the moorland tops and will benefit a wide range of wildlife including Black Grouse, Capercaillie and invertebrates. They hope to continue working together to protect Scotland’s most important species and habitats.

                 

Each year 43 million bottles of The Famous Grouse Blended Scotch Whisky are enjoyed in no less than 94 global markets. Edrington's Annual Report for 2022-23 shows the brand at the No.1 spot in spirits sold online across all spirit categories in Scotland. But what is it that makes The Famous Grouse so popular? It is the story of six generations of Gloags, all named Matthew!

SIX GENERATIONS OF MATTHEW GLOAGS

Matthew Joseph Gloag

Matthew Gloag I

1797-1860

Matthew William Gloag

Matthew Gloag II

1820-1858

Matthew Robert Gloag

Matthew Gloag III

1850-1912

Matthew William Gloag

Matthew Gloag IV

1882-1947

Matthew Frederick Gloag

Matthew Gloag V

1910-1970

Matthew Irving Gloag

Matthew Gloag VI

1947-

In 1770, Joseph Gloag set up business as a roving Warehouse Goods Carrier, dealing with the transfer of imported duty-paid goods like wine and rare groceries from outside Scotland to dealers, shopkeepers and grocers in Perth, the county town of Perthshire. His eldest son, Matthew, was born in 1797. At the age of 18 in 1815, he was employed for a minimum of 20 years as the official manager of the Sheriff Clerk’s cellar that was used to stock and then sell off or auction seized, impounded, confiscated and expropriated liquor, mainly whisky, gin and illicit hooch.

In 1817, he married Margaret Brown, daughter of John Brown, a mason, living in a first floor self-owned flat at 22 Athole (Atholl) Street, above a grocery run by one Peter McRorie since 1807 and serviced by 'dad' Gloag. McRorie died in 1824 and his store was bought by Brown, but run by Margaret Brown Gloag. She added a winery to her grocery in 1831 and was helped in the latter trade by her husband. Matthew joined the grocery/ winery in 1835 and started to trade in blended malt whiskies. Both he and his son, also a Mathew sold only blended malts, mainly those bought from Glenlivet and Talisker.

When Matthew Gloag I died in 1860 it was found that he had little stock of malted whisky in his cellar. He did have, however, copious quantities of grain whiskies and the more expensive than whisky Very Old Rum. His most expensive alcohol was Pale 1848 Cognac. An unenterprising Mathew Gloag II preferred status quo and refused to enter the home-blending business, even though his contemporaries like Walker, Usher, Ballantine, Teacher and the Chivas Brothers were raking in money hand over fist. He, however, invested profits in the North British Grain distillery.

When this Mathew died in 1896, his son, yet another Matthew, entered the home- grown blending business with his first blended Scotch, the 5 YO Brig o’ Perth, ABV ~65%. He followed his first launch with a number of other whiskies in quick succession over three years, bracketed under Gloag's Perth Whiskies, including the 7 YO The Famous "Grouse" Blend at 40 shillings a dozen quart bottles (1.132L). Gloag’s "Grouse" Brand Whisky, launched in 1897 would soon become The Grouse, a Blended Malt directed at the blue-blooded who came annually to Scotland to shoot grouse from Aug 12 for 121 days, The Glorious Twelfth.

On the stroke of midnight of August 12, 1905, Matthew Gloag III re-branded the Gloag’s Grouse as The Grouse, taking his name off the whisky. More importantly, as time would show, the seven-year-old Famous Grouse Brand grew into the 8 YO Famous Grouse Blended Scotch. The malts available to him then (also currently available & renamed) were Aberfeldy, Glenrothes-Glenlivet, The Glenlivet, Glengoyne, Tamdhu-Glenlivet, Macallan-Glenlivet and Talisker, plus grain whisky from the North British Grain whisky distillery.

The Grouse family of whiskies weathered the storm of WW I, US Prohibition and WW II under successive Matthew Gloags. By the 1960s, the business had grown to such an extent that exports to America alone had risen to 12 million proof gallons. By 1968 it had risen to 33m. The future was looking rosy for Matthew Gloag V & Sons.

Tragedy struck in 1970. Matthew Gloag V and his wife died within two days of each other. Matthew Irving Gloag (Matthew Gloag VI, 1947-present) ran into unforeseen financial distress facing exorbitant Estate Duties and was forced to sell the company to Highland Distillers (for £1.25m), although he remained as a Director to continue the family’s involvement.

                                 

In 1979, the company breached the one million cases sales mark. By 1980 The Famous Grouse became Scotland’s brand leader and still is, a remarkable four decades later; it was awarded a Royal Warrant by Queen Elizabeth II in 1984. A new record was set in 1989, with over two million cases shipped. Sales continued to rise, and during the 1990s, The Famous Grouse grew by a staggering 25% – twice the rate of the premium Scotch sector.

When Under Highland Distillers, The Famous Grouse released a series of 12-year-old Vintage Blended Malt Whiskies starting 1998. Highland Distillers was then fully absorbed into the Edrington Group in November 1999. After taking over, Edrington's Board allowed the releases of the Blended Malt Whiskies, but changed focus to Blended Scotch. Numerous successful expressions were launched since, all the while retaining top spot in Scotland.

The pace of premiumisation was stepped up in its unrelenting bid to give the brand a renewed thrust. There was an urgent necessity to do so, as brand sales were flattening, losing out to the onslaught of single malts. Its pole position in Scotland, however, remains unchallenged, while achieving its highest-ever market share in the UK. It is also the market leader in Sweden, Norway, Iceland, Denmark, the Netherlands and Cyprus. Its progress outside the EU/Europe and the USA seems to lack the same intensity.

39 Ads Set To The Plink Plonk Theme

 


Saturday 6 January 2024

MACALLAN COLOUR COLLECTION

 MACALLAN TO THE FORE AGAIN

The Macallan Colour Collection 2023

The Macallan unveiled its new Colour Collection on 11 October 2023. This isn’t a limited edition–this range will become a familiar sight in many major sea and airports in the years to come. The brand's Global Travel Retail offerings has been overhauled, with the Colour Collection permanently replacing The Macallan Quest range, a series of non-age statement whiskies that have been a staple in Macallan’s GTR channels since 2017.

Authenticity lies in nature’s untouched beauty and The Macallan Colour Collection exhibition is dedicated to the visual qualities of fine aged whiskies. The new range comprises five age-statement single malts: 12, 15, 18, 21, and 30-year-old expressions. This is great news for those who habitually purchase The Macallan whisky at airport duty free stores, since it marks the return of age-statement Macallan whisky to such outlets after more than a decade; age statement Macallan whiskies had largely vanished from their repertoire since 2009. After a good 13 years of biding their time, the distillery now has a more robust supply of aged whiskies to allow age statement Macallans back in airports.

The Colour Collection’s launched its debut event in Singapore to provide a taste of the range and also learn a bit about the marketing concept behind it. The series highlighted two of the six foundational pillars of The Macallan brand, (1) the natural colour of its whiskies and (2) the quality of oak casks used in the maturation process.

For long-time Macallan fans, the twist lies in the casks used. While all the casks used here were Sherry seasoned – which fans would remember is a signature Macallan touch – this range has been almost entirely matured in American oak. A brand ambassador estimates that the expressions in this Collection were made with a proportion of 80% to 90% in American oak, a departure from the typical Macallan recipe which often leans towards heavy use of European oak. This focus on American oak, or Quercus alba means that there are much fewer tannins and wood extractives compared to European oak. Maturation results in a lighter gold colour for the whisky, and a more appley, floral and citrussy character.

Aesthetically, the bottles in the Colour Collection are slightly more minimalist with a bare back (normally the back is covered by a label), allowing the natural colours of the individual expressions to shine through. The paper packagings, too, have been designed with an undulating helix pattern said to mirror the unique roof design of the new distillery compound at Macallan.

Located alongside the vast Atlantic Ocean, Jerez de la Frontera is a captivating region known for its scorching summers, resilient vineyards, and exquisite wines. It is here that The Macallan meticulously seasons their oak casks with sherry, a crucial element in crafting extraordinary single malt whisky that boasts a deeply radiant, Natural Colour.

The Macallan's dedication to craftsmanship goes beyond the whisky itself. The exquisite presentation boxes for the 12, 15, and 18 Years Old expressions are crafted using eco-friendly materials and are entirely recyclable. For the 21 and 30 Years Old expressions, meticulously carved wooden boxes made from oak harvested from sustainable forests are used. These boxes serve the dual purpose of safeguarding the whisky and can be repurposed, showcasing their unwavering commitment to durability and environmental consciousness.

This collection is now available in The Macallan boutiques situated in key airports globally, starting with those of Singapore, London, Los Angeles, Shanghai and Dubai.

Macallan Colour Collection 12 YO 40% ABV

Appearance: Yellow gold.

Nose: Sweet, rounded and full. Opens with a pronounced vanilla scent, cream with honey just as present. Macallan’s signature cocoa notes also make an appearance. Throughout, it remains gentle and refined, not causing any discomfort to the nose.

Palate: Lighter in flavour and body than anticipated, leaning towards the watery side. There's a touch of light honey and vanilla, complemented by subtle apple undertones. As it sits on the palate, a mild woody character emerges, accompanied by dried lemon peels. However, there's a noticeable heat, almost spicy in nature, that momentarily intensifies to an almost painful degree, giving away a lack of maturity. There’s also a metallic, coppery note.

Finish: Short-lived, leaving behind traces of honey, hay, and dry oak. There's a lingering warmth at the back of the throat.

For a 12 YO, this is just nice. Perhaps a bit too young. And cost? Click on the preceding link.

Macallan Colour Collection 15 YO 43% ABV 

Appearance: Honey.

Nose: Bright and tropical, with soft pineapples being first to greet the senses, followed by vanilla and light coconut flakes. There is more depth here than the 12 Years Old; cocoa notes are more pronounced, with honey and beeswax coming through. There’s also a gradual progression to sweet orange oil and clementine peels, with a hint of caramel rounding it off.

Palate: Much, much more enjoyable on the palate compared to the 12 Years Old. This is richer and more flavourful, with a more viscous texture to boot. Light cocoa powder and honeyed notes alongside vanilla and apricots. The spices are gentle and well-integrated, and there's a mild sweet-savoury undertone that is reminiscent of butterscotch.

Finish: Short but clean. There's a presence of black tea and aromatic oak, ending with a toasty breadiness and a touch of vanilla icing sugar.

The 15 Years Old is a significant step up from the 12; it’s twice the price of the 12 Years Old! This has a flavourful, well-balanced and integrated profile. Honey, cocoa, and spices are all basic notes, yet they’re generous and harmonious, without any off notes whatsoever.

Macallan Colour Collection 18 YO 43% ABV

Appearance: Auburn.

Nose: Reminiscent of the 12 Years Old – vanilla, honey, and cocoa, but with a slightly richer and more complex quality to it. Some sticky date pudding that hints at the Sherry influence, with layers of more perfumed floral aromas. There's a distinct sweetness reminiscent of original-flavoured Japanese Ramune soda.

Palate: Noticeably thick and oily texture. Brown sugar and caramelised peaches come to the fore, followed by buttered sugar toast. Baking spices - notably cinnamon and nutmeg - present themselves without any accompanying heat. Milk chocolate, toffee, the earthy notes of pu'er tea and an unexpected umami mushroomy note.

Finish: Quite short. Lingering notes of honey, before dry oak and spices becomes more pronounced towards the end.

It's a testament to how a few more years in the cask can make a world of difference. All that seems missing is background subtlety.

Macallan Colour Collection 21 YO 43% ABV

Appearance: Copper.

Nose: A festive vibe with raisins, dried cranberries and Christmas cake taking centre stage. Dense date pudding follows closely, and there's a distinct scent of caramelised and fried banana, adding a very tasty touch of dessert.

Palate: The palate is cleaner and brighter than its predecessors. There's a dominant honeyed flavour accompanied by vanilla, and the taste of lemon cream biscuits is unmistakable. But surprisingly, the signature Macallan oaky-chocolatey note is absent. Instead, there's a much fruitier profile, with light apple notes, pineapples and a very light touch of fresh passionfruit making their presence felt, along with a freshness and subtle bitterness of camomile tea.

Finish: Short-lived once again. As louder flavours depart we get a vanillic sweetness and custard cream, and a hint of gristy oat bran. A gentle heat settles at the back of the throat.

An excellent whisky, though lacking that classic Macallan chocolate finish.

Macallan Colour Collection 30 YO 43% ABV

Years of maturation in exceptional oak casks, sturdy American oak casks beautifully accompanied by a delicate touch of European oak, has created a deep flavour profile of wood spice, tropical fruit and crème brûlée that Artist and Graphic Designer David Carson has rendered with juxtaposed cutouts of wood grain, stippled orange paint, and zesty yellow brushstrokes. For its age, it is quite light and relatively one-dimensional. It might have been a lot better if bottled at a higher ABV.

In the foreground, the 30 Years Old stands resplendent, crowned by a burgundy cap that hints at the influence of wine in this age statement, and across the Colour Collection and has been bottled at 43% ABV. With flavours of tropical fruits, nuts and spices, the whisky is a natural, deep chestnut colour.

Appearance: Deep chestnut.

Nose: Pineapple, dried mango, caramelised banana, crème brûlée with sweet aged oak and orange oil.

Palate: Tropical fruits with almond, touch of cinnamon and nutmeg intertwined with creamy baked custard and crystalised lemon peel.

Finish: Medium with sweet woodspice and tropical fruits.

Our Distillery, nestled within the rolling hills of Speyside, serves as an inspiration for the Colour Collection’s reimagined visual identity. The silhouette of the Distillery, with its five hills mirroring the curves of the River Spey, has shaped the visual elements found throughout the Colour Collection’s branding.

From the elegant wave patterns adorning the packaging to the distinctive arc of "The Macallan Scotland" icon, the visual identity harmoniously blends the natural surroundings with state-of-the-art technology, honouring the brand's rich heritage while embracing modernity.