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Thursday, 20 October 2022

DIAGEO'S PRIMA AND ULTIMA COLLECTION

 Diageo’s Prima & Ultima Third Release

A MOMENT IN TIME


Prima & Ultima, a series of unique whiskies, the first or last of their kind, returns this year for its third instalment. Representing the almost lost, the historic, and the one-off, this year’s collection of eight rare and exceptional whiskies joins the illustrious sixteen from previous editions, adding new stories to this growing narrative of Scotland’s rich liquid history.

Prima & Ultima – meaning ‘first and last’ – showcases whiskies that are exactly that. The eight single malts in this year’s line-up were chosen by Diageo master blender Dr Craig Wilson. The whiskies include the final Brora bottling from 1981, and spirit from the last two casks of Port Ellen filled in 1980, as well as single malts from Royal Lochnagar, Cragganmore, Mannochmore, The Singleton of Glen Ord, Lagavulin and Talisker.

The Port Ellen 1980 is the oldest ever to be released from this distillery, taken from two casks filled the year the Queen visited the maltings in 1980. They matured exclusively on Islay, overlaying the whisky with notes of brine and seaweed. Meanwhile, the Brora 1981 is considered the rarest publicly available whisky from the distillery, and it shows a more fragrant, less peated side to the classic style.

The last Talisker casks from 1984 bring another maritime note to the collection, while two exploratory whiskies – a Royal Lochnagar from 1981, the result of an experiment to capture the angels’ share, and a Mannochmore from 1990 exposed to an unusual maturation process – capture the spirit of innovation.

The oldest whisky in this year’s selection comes from the oldest casks of Cragganmore in the reserves, while a 28-year-old Lagavulin 1993 celebrates the beginning of a golden era of awards for the celebrated Islay distillery. The Singleton of Glen Ord finishes the lineup with a dual claim to the Prima & Ultima title, being the first ever 1987 vintage release, taken from the last remaining casks of 1987.

                      

RARE AND EXCEPTIONAL

Due to their rarity, there were only 317 sets available for purchase, through Prima & Ultima agents at a recommended price of £36,500. Each set included a 20ml tasting sample alongside the full vintage bottlings. For the first time, a selection of individual bottles was also available to purchase offering the opportunity for enthusiasts, connoisseurs and collectors to experience whiskies that will never be made again.

TASTING NOTES

Royal Lochnagar 1981, 40-Year-Old 70 Cl 52.5% ABV

Bottled: 06.12.21 | Refill casks, refill American Oak Hogsheads No Bottled: 1,047 | Balmoral, Royal Deeside

Royal Lochnagar distillery is based on the Abergeldie Estate in Royal Deeside, Scotland, close to the mountain Lochnagar. The first Lochnagar distillery was burnt down in suspicious circumstances in 1824 and a replacement again burnt down in 1841. In 1845 John Begg built the "new" Lochnagar. The distillery was awarded its Royal Warrant in 1848 when John Begg invited Prince Albert to visit the distillery from the nearby Balmoral Castle, the Queen’s residence in the Highlands. This historic distillery on the edge of the Balmoral estate, produces whisky on a tiny scale despite being part of Diageo's large distillery portfolio. Much of its whisky is released as single malt, although it is also a key component of high-end limited quantity blended whiskies. This expression is the result of a mysterious experiment designed to reduce the angels’ share (evaporation) as the whisky matures, this is a delicate, fragrant, beautifully expressive single malt from one of Diageo’s smallest and most photogenic distilleries. Deep gold with copper lights in appearance, it has fine and lingering beading, multiple long legs. Mellow with light prickle and a medium body. Highly floral, with lavender, jasmine and bramble on the nose and ginger, honey and light oak tannin on the palate. This is a graceful, mature whisky of great freshness and vitality with flowery aromas, leading to a smooth creamy overall mouthfeel.

Cragganmore 1973, 48-Year-Old 70 Cl 44.8% ABV

Bottled: 06.12.21 | 3 refill American Oak Hogsheads | Number Bottled: 351 | Ballindalloch, Speyside

Cragganmore uses lightly peated malt, long fermentation, unusually shaped stills and worm tubs to produce a rich, meaty new make. The oldest release of Cragganmore to date, this was distilled soon after steam replaced coal in heating the stills. It’s as smooth as a velvet smoking jacket with complex aromas and unctuously fruity – almond oil, cassis, then peach and nectarine. The assertive oak brings a drying, nutty dimension alongside toffee, with always the tang of dark marmalade lurking in the background. This milestone in distilling gave birth to a new age in which craft and vision could walk hand in hand. A pathfinder for the smooth whiskies of the modern-day, the nose is more complex than usual with a palate that is sweet but pleasantly tart.

Appearance is a clear rich amber, polished mahogany. No beading. long legs. It has a very mellow nose with just a little prickle to start, which soon disappears. In the rich top notes, the immediate impression is almost sherry-like, soon becoming sweeter, with almond oil or almond cake. Also lightly fruity, with tropical fruits; papaya, ripe mango, plantain banana, and apricot. Finally, there are some fragrant floral notes, the base reminiscent of a sandalwood cigar wrapper. The Body is medium to full, with a creamy, even lightly oily texture and a sweet taste, which soon becomes pleasantly tart, with a hint of caramelised orange, then oaky-dry with light tannins. The finish is quite long, with a gentle, spicy warmth, and finishing dry, with vanilla fudge lingering in the long aftertaste.

Mannochmore 1990, 31-Year-Old 70 Cl 45.1% ABV

Bottled: 06.12.21 | Refill cask, untreated virgin European Oak | Number Bottled: 357 | Glenlossie, Speyside

The lesser-spotted, malty Mannochmore, made even rarer by its experimental maturation for almost three decades in highly active, virgin European oak. Charred bitter orange peel, spice rack flavours, coffee roaster and opulent aromas of well-polished antique bureaus. A rich, deep single malt for fans of cask-driven whiskies.

Mannochmore is a large Speyside distillery with half a dozen stills, where a light style is produced though without the oily background of its sister plant, Glenlossie. Flowers are more to the fore here, with delicate fruits that gain in weight when matured. Mannochmore is one of the manifestations of the confidence of the 1960s, built by DCL in 1971 to cope with increasing demand internationally for blends, and like its sister plant, Glenlossie, it has been closely associated with the Haig and Dimple brands. Here we are talking about a very special Mannochmore sourced from a single small experimental batch exposed to a highly unusual maturation. First housed in refill casks, then in unusual, highly active virgin European Oak for almost three decades has revealed a whole new character. The pale and youthful whisky has evolved into a dark and intriguing spirit, lean and smooth in texture. The powerful taste of striking dark orange marmalade is cut with drying wood spice before spiralling into endless layers of deep bitterness. Rich rosewood with ruby lights in appearance, this medium-bodied expression has a gentle and almost enigmatic nose, dry overall, which initially gives little away. After a while a suggestion of polished leather emerges, perhaps edging towards scented wax furniture polish, on a base of hard toffee, with vanilla notes. Lean and smooth in texture, while the powerfully bittersweet taste is immediately striking. The powerful taste of striking dark orange marmalade is cut with drying wood spice before spiralling into endless layers of deep bitterness. This is its striking finish, medium to long, lightly spicy and very drying, with a bitter-sweet nutty-spicy aftertaste.  

Brora 1981, 40-Year-Old 70 Cl 44.1% ABV

Bottled: 09.12.21 | 1 refill American Oak Hogshead, 1 European Oak Sherry Butt | Number Bottled: 354 | Brora, Highlands

Much of the Brora we know today is heavily peated, the American Oak hogshead and European Oak Sherry butt selected here show us a different side of the Brora story. Filled at a time when less whisky was being made, it was often less peaty allowing new aromas and tastes to shine through. The last release of 1981 Brora, this may well be the rarest publicly available Brora of all.  

It came as no surprise to anyone that, when Craig Wilson took his turn curating a Prima & Ultima Collection, he would include a Brora. In recent years, he has been involved in many aspects of this ghost distillery’s afterlife and resurrection. He was the brain behind last year’s much sought-after Brora Triptych, a trio of vintages from stills that went silent in 1983, showcasing three very different styles produced at different times throughout its history. He has also been closely involved with the reestablished Brora distillery, notably the challenge of being able to produce all of those distinct styles again whenever they like. As well as being a new working distillery, Brora is one of the best – and most exclusive – to visit by appointment.

For the Triptych, Wilson demarcated specific periods and the styles associated with those, but of course, there would be periods of overlap. So, 1981 was on the cusp of the more modern, lighter waxy style but still retaining elements of the age of peat. Indeed, it’s a mystery wrapped in an enigma, with a fragrant nose of waxed fruit, scented candlewax, then sweet spices on a rich smooth palate, with elusive will-o’-the-wisp smoke and moorland flowers dancing in and out of the scene, leading to a smooth waxy texture that is sweet and lightly smoky.

Deep, clear gold in appearance, there is no beading, but slow legs. The nose is very mild and mellow, with no prickle and the body is medium. But then, Brora is a chameleon, embracing everything from dark smoke to waxy, juicy fruit. This final release from 1981 displays a little of everything: honeyed fruit, snuffed candle, shaved nutmeg and a gentle wisp of peat smoke. The star of this year’s show.

The Singleton of Glen Ord 1987, 34-Year-Old 70 Cl 49.4% ABV

Bottled: 10.12.21 | 5 refill American Oak Hogsheads | Number Bottled: 1,047 | Glen Ord, Highlands

A first, and last, this is the first 1987 The Singleton of Glen Ord vintage and the only one ever to be released, from the last casks that remain. Slow crafting and patience were key to this rare bottling, taking time to distil the liquid and see each cask reach its peak. The result is an elegant liquid with absolutely breathtaking qualities. The sweetly satisfying taste 

A single malt to linger over when nosing – this is a massively fragrant, floral, fine whisky, with notes of ginger snap, bright fruit and an elusive wisp of smoke, possibly from the refill American oak. Remarkably lively, but also deep and broad, with a sweet finish that holds deep fruity flavours with hints of ginger. Add water for honeysuckle and gentle vanilla.

The Highland distillery on the Black Isle, close to Inverness, is set to gain a higher profile now that its new “brand home” has opened. Glen Ord is a rarity because 100 per cent of its malting is done on site. This bottling is both a first and a last… there has never been a bottling of a 1987 vintage before, nor will there be again, as these were the last casks remaining from that year. Glen Ords have always been highly prized both for The Singleton malts and for blends such as Johnnie Walker; the simple fact is, previous Master Blenders have used it all!

If this rarity is anything to go by, it’s easy to understand why… it is spectacular on the nose in particular, a complex jazz composition written to describe late summer in a country garden whether on the nose, the palate bringing out preserved ginger pavlova and with another tour of the garden on the finish.

Lagavulin 1993, 28-Year-Old 70 Cl 50.1% ABV

Bottled: 08.12.21|1 Pedro Ximenez/Oloroso seasoned butt, 1 refill American Oak Hogshead| Number Bottled: 642|Port Ellen, Isle of Islay

Showing Lagavulin’s darker side thanks to ageing in European and American oak, this is a richly fruited malt that will delight fans of Laga 16. Juicy blackcurrant and raspberry, then classic distillery notes of beach bonfire and iodine. Lapsang flavours are swiftly smothered by sweet black cherry and a compelling vinosity. 

A prized Lagavulin, from the last two 1993 casks, filled in the year the distillery won the first of an avalanche of international awards. It was the start of a golden era, a success that owed much to an Islay legend, Manager Grant Carmichael. This is a Lagavulin at its mature peak with redcurrant fruitiness on the nose, soon overcome by the maritime scents of sea salt and sweet seaweed. Lapsang flavours are swiftly smothered by sweet black cherry and a compelling vinosity. Lightly oily, the smooth texture delivers a long mellow finish, a gloriously rich and rounded whisky.

This will divide opinions. In one way, it’s a complex array of flavours with the best of Islay, sherry and ex-bourbon all having a say on the palate. While it is very interesting, there is only a touch of the distinctive Lagavulin character (iodine, in particular) left. The phenolic notes in Lagavulin become less pronounced, rounder, earthier, and better integrated as the whisky ages. Always set to champion experimentation, this is a wonderful dram, but perhaps only identifiable as a Lagavulin to the experienced palate.

The appearance is deep amber with ruby lights. Shiny chestnut. Very good beading and legs. A mellow nose in feel, with light prickle. Redcurrant fruitiness is soon overcome by maritime scents of sea salt and sweet seaweed on a base of woodsmoke. Its body is medium to full. Lightly oily and smooth in texture. An immediately sweet and lightly spicy start with winey fruit, a balancing pinch of salt and soon, appreciable pepper and smoke flooding through. Rich in style, with drying oak tannins and lightly drying later. The finish is long, with a deep peppery smokiness: slightly mouth-cooling, with more smoke in the peaty aftertaste.

Talisker 1984, 37-Year-Old 70 Cl 51.9% ABV

Bottled: 07.12.21 | 3 refill American Oak Hogsheads, 1 ex-Sherry European Oak Butt | Number Bottled: 968 | Carbost, Isle of Skye

While some of the releases in this year’s Prima & Ultima are unusual twists on a distillery’s usual character, this is a celebration of the familiar taken to a higher plane with ageing. The finest Taliskers are a harmonious balancing act of salt, smoke and sweetness, with just a pinch of chilli heat. Here the chimney soot smoke is quite assertive, but always the distillery’s classic maritime salinity persists, with some alluringly sweet fruit in the background. A savoury, silky whisky, redolent of warm summer days on a Skye beach.

Taken from the very last 1984 casks from Talisker, set aside and guarded for decades for their promising potential. At the time few knew of Talisker’s tempestuous maritime character, but there was something special about these 1984 casks that made the distiller set them aside. The finest Taliskers are a harmonious balancing act of salt, smoke and sweetness, with just a pinch of chilli heat. Here the chimney soot smoke is quite assertive, but always the distillery’s classic maritime salinity persists, with some alluringly sweet fruit in the background. A savoury, silky whisky redolent of warm summer days on a Skye beach.

The Talisker distillery is the oldest working whisky producer on the island of Skye. Until the opening of the Torabhaig distillery in 2017, it was the only producer. Historically, Talisker has been a peated whisky with a prominent maritime character and a trademark note of freshly ground black pepper on both the nose and the palate.

The whisky was matured in a combination of re-fill hogsheads made from ex-bourbon casks and one ex-Sherry European oak butt. A total of 968 bottles were filled.

Bright gold, polished brass in appearance, with exceptional large beading and a medium to full body. On the nose, Immediate mineral and lightly smoky with hints of chalk and salt, joined by notes of fine sand and seaweed drying on a hot day. The light smoke is followed by Talisker’s characteristic savoury/maritime notes reminiscent of a beach at low tide. There are some fruity notes and the trademark Talisker black pepper.

On the palate, the whisky is smooth, oily and viscous; the deliciously light oil-smooth texture introduces a sweet and richly malty start, soon balanced by a dash of salt mid-palate and surging waves of smoky pepper. It’s rich and fruity, with pronounced orchard fruit notes of apple and Asian pear, along with cold smoke, a savoury/saline character, a bit of earthiness and a pronounced pepperiness that features both black pepper and chilis, drying towards the finish. The finish is long, sweet and smoky, with a lingering pepperiness leaving a peppery heat on the tongue and a savoury maritime note. It is Skye in all its elemental glory.

Port Ellen 1980, 41-Year-Old 70 Cl 59.6% ABV

Bottled: 07.12.21 | 1 refill American Oak Hogshead, 1 ex-Sherry European Oak Butt  |  Number Bottled: 555 | Port Ellen, Isle of Islay

Commemorating HM Queen Elizabeth II’s visit to Port Ellen in 1980, this is the oldest release yet from the distillery. Remarkably high in alcohol for a 41-year-old whisky, it’s full-on, quintessential Port Ellen, with robust flavours of dying coal fire and a drying effect on the palate, elevated by beguiling flavours of honeydew melon. Beautifully textured, with a long, cooling and savoury finish. 

Port Ellen, another legendary distillery which was dismantled and only recently rebuilt and returned to production. Collectors eagerly seek its iconic whiskies and pay premium prices for them. The 1980 Port Ellen is the oldest Port Ellen released by Diageo and this prized piece of history is the oldest Port Ellen ever to be released, from the two very last casks of 1980 which lived all their days on Islay. This whisky of majestic quality is rich and smooth and has a perfect balance of sweet, salty, and smoky, with a long, lightly peaty finish of Iberico ham.

An impressive ABV for such an old whisky and as such this needs a healthy dose of water to bring out the complexity. Bring this one down to around 50% and you get the trappings of the quintessential Port Ellen.

Although the still designs at Port Ellen and Lagavulin were different – Port Ellen’s stills were onion-shaped with tall necks while Lagavulin’s stills were squat and short-necked – the two distilleries shared a similar style. Unlike Lagavulin, however, Port Ellen tended to be a little smokier and more peppery and briny but slightly less medicinal and oily. Even though both distilleries used a similarly peated malt, the cut points at Port Ellen differed from those at Lagavulin. Port Ellen also tended to use less active, re-fill barrels, so the whiskies received less cask wood influences. That’s also why Port Ellen whiskies have been able to age for such a long time without getting overly woody.

Bright, clear 9ct gold in appearance, it shows good beading and copious legs. A bit fresh on the nose, with some prickle closing the aroma initially; lightly drying. The initial impression is lightly medicinal, becoming more maritime as it opens with hints of brine, sea breeze, dry seaweed or boat varnish. Lightly smoky, with hints of spun honey. The body is medium to full and is rich, smooth and lightly oily in texture. Starts sweet, quickly seasoned with a shake of salt and pepper and has a long, gently warming and very lightly peaty finish, slightly mouth-cooling, with smoke lingering in the aftertaste.

Saturday, 15 October 2022

DIAGEO SPECIAL RELEASES FOR 2022

 ALL EXPRESSIONS AT CASK STRENGTH AND very EXPENSIVE

THE STORY BEHIND THE SPECIAL RELEASES...

In the late 1980s, the Scotch whisky industry witnessed one of the most high-profile corporate takeovers in the UK’s history when The Distillers Company was taken over by Guinness. In 1987, United Distillers was formed (a formation of Distillers Company and Arthur Bell & Sons, both owned by Guinness). Just one year after, when taking stock of the vast array of maturing casks amassed by their predecessor, the new owners faced the realisation that they needed to focus on upmarket malts and raise the profile of their brand portfolio. Single malts had slowly been generating more interest since the early 80s, with thanks primarily to Glenfiddich, which distillery, two decades prior heavily promoted the category.

THE CLASSIC MALTS 1990

By 1988, single malts were fashionable and in a bid to establish a high-profile single malt portfolio, United Distillers introduced ‘The Classic Malts of Scotland’. The Classic Malts was a relaunch of six single malt Scotch brands, Lagavulin, Talisker, Oban, Dalwhinnie, Cragganmore and Glenkinchie. The series concentrated on illuminating regional differences in the whiskies and was regarded as a pivotal movement in introducing newcomers to the world of single malt scotch whiskies. As interest in single malt whiskies continued to climb, one product of this was the ‘The Rare Malt Selection’, a series of older, rarer single malt releases from operational and lost distilleries from 1995 to 2005. As with the Flora & Fauna series, they were often from lesser-seen single malt distilleries. However, there remained a demand for distinctive, often older, unrepeatable cask strength bottlings and by the turn of the millennium the company, now Diageo, was looking for something to fill this request.

"Such bottlings allowed collectors, connoisseurs & enthusiasts to enjoy and experience exclusive remaining older stocks, and/ or unusual expressions of a distillery’s character - the treasure trove of priceless malts. To satisfy this demand, the Special Releases series, born in 1988, was formalised in 2001 and the annual collection - with familiar names and some surprises - has been eagerly awaited by enthusiasts ever since." Dr Craig Wilson, Master Blender of Diageo & Curator, Special Releases

The Rare Malts Selection, a collection of cask-strength bottlings from across Scotland, was on the shelves after its first bottling in 1995. The prices were incredibly reasonable by today’s standards, and Diageo was looking for something to follow them.

THE SAME SIX BUT WITH THEIR CARTONS

That year, drawing on its stocks of old whisky, Diageo tested the waters with a bottling of Talisker 28 Year Old, exclusive to Oddbins and limited to just 100 bottles. It sold out in a matter of hours and now changes hands for upwards of £4,000 a bottle. Encouraged, the company then released a pair of whiskies which are now seen as the inaugural Special Releases –  the first Talisker 25 Year Old and the now legendary Port Ellen First Release. The Port Ellen has appeared as part of the line-up ever since, with a box, label and bottle that have barely changed since the first year.

In 2002, a larger batch of bottlings appeared, setting the standard for what would follow – a set of seven whiskies, including Brora (which has appeared in every release since), Talisker (another mainstay until 2013, only not appearing in the line-up in 2011) and the now-yearly release of 12-year-old Lagavulin.

DEVELOPING THE RANGE

Starting with a core of four distilleries, each subsequent year showcased old and rare whiskies from open distilleries, twists on distillery styles, and bottlings from lost distillers. Talisker’s 25- and 30-year-old releases slipped in and out of the range, leaving gaps for other lesser-known drams. The core line-up eventually settled down to what we have today:

Port Ellen – closed in 1983, so we don’t think there’s much left. As we ask every year: will there be more bottlings as part of the Special Releases?

Brora – also closed in 1983, and while not as trumpeted about as Port Ellen, it’s just as, if not more, sought after. As with Port Ellen, every year could be the last one we see in the Special Releases.

Lagavulin 12yo – one of a pair of more affordable drams in each set of Special Releases. A very different take to the bestselling Lagavulin 16, focusing on stormy maritime character and bourbon-cask maturation.

Caol Ila Highland – while it’s best known for smoky whisky, Caol Ila has been making unpeated spirits since at least the 1990s. Known as Caol Ila Highland, it very rarely appears anywhere but in Special Releases.

The Diageo Special Releases 2017 saw as many as ten distilleries on the rack. Along with the four core bottlings, that year’s Special Releases featured everything from the oldest whisky Diageo has ever released to the Special Releases’ first blend.

DIAGEO’S SPECIAL RELEASES FOR 2020: RARE BY NATURE THEME

The 2020 Diageo Special Release Single Malt Scotch Whisky Collection features eight vibrant expressions, each selected to bring a taste of Scotland to every enthusiast's home. This collection includes eight cask-strength single malt Scotch whiskies drawn from some of Scotland’s most interesting distilleries. The annual collection explores unusual age points, and experimental maturation techniques and this year welcome the first-ever release finished in pot-still Caribbean rum casks. The "Rare by Nature" theme highlights the extraordinary nature that surrounds each distillery, with each whisky visually brought to life through intricate illustrations that decorate the bottles.

If you remember the 2019 Diageo Special Releases, then the line-up for 2020 might look somewhat familiar. Not only do we have eight whiskies again, but seven of the eight distilleries are the same as those in 2019 – Singleton of Glen Ord has been replaced by Singleton of Dufftown – and even some of the ages and vintages match up.

DIAGEO SPECIAL RELEASES 2021: LEGENDS UNTOLD

Diageo Special Releases has slowly evolved into a showcase of lesser-known distilleries in Diageo’s portfolio – they own more distilleries in Scotland than any other whisky maker – as well as new takes on more familiar names. The past few years have seen some major changes in both the make-up of the collection and its intention, The Prima and Ultima range has taken on the role of the super-high-end-whisky showcase, leaving the Special Releases as a more accessible way to get your hands on some very special drams from Scotland’s biggest whisky maker.

Legends Untold: After the pandemic caused slightly less focussed releases over the past couple of years, 2021’s Special Releases are much more unified in purpose – they are there to tell stories. Alongside the whiskies themselves, they have also created a multimedia experience to accompany each dram. Scan the QR code on the back of each box or tube with your phone to face an augmented-reality experience that invites you to pop your dram on the table and listen to stories, as read by Scottish actors Lorne MacFadyen and Siobhan Redmond, and accompanied by imagery from acclaimed digital artist Ken Taylor.

                  

 DIAGEO SPECIAL RELEASES 2022: ELUSIVE EXPRESSIONS

This year’s edition of the Diageo Special Releases, created by master blender Dr Craig Wilson and his award-winning team, is a showcase of extremes. It is a range that shows everything from seldom-seen distilleries in their purest light to complex maturations and the most intense versions of familiar spirits. Each bottle is paired with artwork by Ken Taylor and Kevin Tong, inspired by the character of the spirit and stories of the distillery where it was made.


The collection includes:

·        A rare expression of Cardhu, finished in Jamaican Rum casks for a vibrant tropical sweetness

·        The dark, sweet, and rich Mortlach, with gingery depth, unique to the Speyside Dufftown distillery

·        A lively sweet expression of The Singleton of Glen Ord, aged in refill American and European Oak, then double matured in wine-seasoned casks

·        A true expression of Lagavulin, matured in a combination of virgin oak casks and our smokiest reserves

·        Talisker 11-Year-Old, elemental yet also classic in character with maritime malty smokiness notes

·        An unusual Clynelish with just a slight trace of waxiness and added sweetness and spiciness from maturation in refill American Oak, then finished in PX/Oloroso seasoned casks

·        The creamy smooth Oban 10-Year-Old with richly sweet fruitiness, light smoke and salt notes

·        And for the first time ever, the rich and exquisite Cameronbridge 26-Year-Old

With over 30 distilleries to draw from, the collection’s Master Blender Dr Craig Wilson can tap into over 10 million casks that are currently resting in our world-famous portfolio. 

Elusive Expressions is the latest chapter in Special Releases, where mythical beasts are unleashed through striking artwork and stories. Illustrator Ken Taylor returns this year with his signature style and is joined by fellow digital visualisation artist Kevin Tong.

Alongside the Special Releases collection, an illustrated cocktails and serves book gives suggestions for whisky fans to try at home, inspired by the legendary tales behind our brands. Whisky enthusiasts can also explore the collection digitally via a QR code, giving the most immersive Special Releases experience to date.

The 2022 Special Releases collection is now available in limited quantities from specialist Scotch whisky retailers and malts.com.

CARDHU 16-YEAR-OLD: THE HIDDEN PARADISE OF BLACK ROCK

Cardhu 16-Year-Old: Rum Cask Finish 70cl / 58% ABV

Cardhu is well-known as an easy-drinking whisky that’s popular in hot countries, and this expression takes that idea and doubles down on tropical flavour. Matured in refill and re-charred casks, and finished in Jamaican pot-still-rum casks, it builds on top of Cardhu’s honey-forward character with layers of fruit and toffee.

This is an extra-tropical edition of Cardhu, released as part of the Diageo Special Releases 2022. Matured in refill and re-charred casks before a finish in Jamaican pot-still-rum casks, it adds layers of tropical fruit to Cardhu's honey-forward character to create a zingy but rich whisky.

Details: Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky: Distillery Bottling

NOSE: 

Spiced cream, toffee and fruit: mango puree and roasted pineapple. The toffee notes build, joined by creamy milk chocolate and soft spice. Cinder toffee hints hide at the back with pineapple upside-down cake and spiced pears.

PALATE: Buttery toffee is swamped by fruit – pineapple leads with creamy apple sauce, sharp Granny Smith apples and poached pears. The fruit continues to build, followed by spiced fruitcake, sultanas and fudgy touches.

FINISH: A tingle of spices is followed by green apples, softer spice and shortbread hints.

MORTLACH: THE LURE OF THE BLOOD MOON

Mortlach is traditionally a distillery focused on sherry-matured whisky, but this release ignores tradition and goes very modern. It’s made up of whisky finished in a combination of red muscat wine and tawny-port casks, as well as a small amount finished in virgin oak. The result layers on red fruit and soft spice, taking the distillery’s rich character in a new direction.

Distillery Bottling 70cl / 57.8% ABV                                                                                                        

A very special Mortlach was released as part of the Diageo Special Releases 2022. This takes a left turn compared to most other Mortlach whiskies, which are traditionally aged in sherry casks, and looks at other wines. It was finished in red muscat and tawny-port casks, and also has a little bit of virgin-oak-finished whisky in the mix. The result is big, rich and spicy, with layers of dark red fruit flavour.

NOSE: Sweet spongecake, sweet and sour berries, stewed apples and green leaves. Spiced butter builds, along with sharper berry notes, spicy wine-poached pears ginger cake and a touch of freshly sawn oak.

PALATE: Big, thick and weighty on the palate, with fresh and zingy orchard fruit balanced by creamy chocolate, caramel and stewed fruit. Buttered fruit loaf and stewed mandarins lead to liquorice root and a pinch of anise.

FINISH: The buttered fruit loaf fades away to leave green leaves and sugar-dusted sultanas.

SINGLETON OF GLEN ORD 15-YEAR-OLD: THE ENCHANTRESS OF THE RUBY SOLSTICE

Glen Ord distillery has been getting a lot of attention recently and it’s great to see a twist on the standard 15-year-old release in the Special Releases. This started out in refill-American and -European oak casks like usual before being filled into wine casks for a long eight-year secondary maturation, giving extra rich, fruity and spicy depth.

This is a grower, not a shower. Ord is a good distillery, and its medium-weight spirit often forms the backbone of quality blended malts. It’s a lot more characterful than the Singleton distillery of Glendullan selected last year. A very minimal amount of information here with “wine cask finish,” as though all whisky tastes the same. I’m not going to go further with any bashing as I did enjoy every mouthful. But do remember that the 2019 SR 18-Year-Old Ord can still be found online for just £18 more than this RRP.

Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky; Distillery Bottling 70cl/54.2% ABV

NOSE: Stacks of fruit: orange, peach, raspberry, fresh and stewed plums, and spiced baked apple. Aromatic oak notes build along with gentle spice, a vinous first impression, backed by more spicy, woody notes of oak shavings and beech. Alluring aromas of tart red berry fruit and creamy vanilla spread among them, and a hint of wax appears in the development. Toffee touches hide at the back. A little water softens the nose and relaxes the aroma, without great alteration

PALATE: Soft and creamy in texture, with sweet cream leading into the fruit from the nose: apples, pears, raspberries and fresh plums. Buttery notes give way to orchard fruit purée and damp oak. Sponge cake appears from time to time, studded with sultanas. An ultra-smooth, mouth-filling texture prefaces a lively, intense taste; barley-sugar sweet, with a pinch of salt. That sweetness becomes pleasantly tart, with suggestions of gooseberry and crisp grape. At reduced strength, it is not as tart, but still spicy; the sweetness is highlighted yet the appetising spicy heat remains.

FINISH: Creamy apple sauce and buttery sponge cake with gentle spice and sweet cream. Lengthy and palate-drying, as pepper heat lingers in the last kiss of silken spice. With water sweeter, now with a trace of fondant in the aftertaste.

LAGAVULIN 12-YEAR-OLD: THE FLAMES OF THE PHOENIX

Lagavulin 12 Year Old 70 Cl 57.3% ABV

The remaining mainstay of the range, the yearly release of Lagavulin 12 Year Old is usually an unadorned smoky spirit. However, this time the team has selected casks that showed a higher level of phenols at filling – compounds that indicate smokiness – and also finished some of the vatting in virgin oak for extra spiciness. A very big and smoky dram.

Lagavulin is a burning phoenix - or is that just what a rooster looks like while we're on 'shrooms? This is probably the one that’s most interested in tasting. This is blended from Lagavulin Distillery’s “smokiest reserves”, which we can assume is some of the peatiest stock we would be seeing from the distillery. This is also interestingly aged in virgin oak casks, which would likely make this taste much older than 12 years. The new oak is highly active and would impart much more oak flavour to the spirit.

The 21st release of Lagavulin 12 Year Old as part of the Diageo Special Releases, a whisky that continues a long and rightfully praised heritage. This year, a couple of extra components separate this from the pack. Firstly, the blending team selected extra smoky casks of whisky – they measure the phenol levels whenever a cask is filled, so can pick out extra-peaty whiskies if they need them. And secondly, they added some new-oak-finished whisky to the mix, adding extra layers of spice to an already big and smoky dram.

Scotch distilleries generally shun virgin oak casks and go with ex-bourbon or sherry casks to avoid the astringency of new oak. For this expression to work well, the wood management and new oak maturation have been handled very carefully by the master blender. And they have!

TALISKER 11-YEAR-OLD: THE LUSTROUS CREATURE OF THE DEPTHS

The returning star of the past few years, we’ve been waiting to see what tweaks the team have made this year. This time the classic bourbon-cask maturation of Talisker has had some wine-cask maturation added to it, to create a subtle extra layer of fruit and spice.

Distillery Bottling 70cl / 55.1%

Talisker has more recently become a mainstay of the Diageo Special Releases, and this 2022 edition continues the tweaking of the Talisker character. Along with the classic American oak ex-bourbon casks, this also has some wine casks thrown into the mix, which add a subtle but intriguing extra bit of fruity complexity and spice. In the past, Talisker often produced experimental cask finishes, but this year we’re seeing an 11-year-old from classic ex-bourbon casks. It is composed of lightly peated stocks though.

As their legend goes, when the tides at Talisker Bay flowed with an unusual force, a luminous creature was drawn from the blackest depths, flooding the deep-sea darkness with its captivating glow. This powerful luminescence was carried on storm-tossed currents to the Talisker distillery, illuminating its new-make spirit. In that spirit too, the vivid luminosity shone, its classic smokiness fading before a radiant tide of spice-bright sweetness rarely seen.

On the shores of Loch Harport, near the western edge of the rugged Isle of Skye, legends easily ring true. Standing apart, its new make spirit cooled by the sea, Talisker has forged its own maritime destiny here since 1830. Sweet, salt-laced, thunderous and smoky, as elemental as land, sea or storm, this is a whisky for the wild at heart, Made by the Sea.

A light shines in every element there. Amid a deep golden glow, salty, smoky hints of a beach bonfire give the mild nose a maritime feel. First fill ex-bourbon casks gift layers of luminous flavour, the texture smoothly oily, the taste sweet and smoky-spicy, salty and fruity, like an orchard in sea mist. Peaty power appears in the chilli-spiced catch of the long finish. This is a legendary Talisker, of ethereal beauty.

Tasting notes:

APPEARANCE: Deep, glowing gold.

BODY: Medium.

NOSE: Maritime in feel, with light spice-prickle, the first impression suggests a beach bonfire of dry seaweed, then deep-seated notes of maritime saltiness and marine engines take over, on a base of drying fresh linen. All these scents hold together well at reduced strength.

PALATE: Smoothly oily in texture, while the taste is gloriously sweet throughout and smoky-spicy, with a distinct fruity hint, all of which evokes an orchard seen through smoke and sea mist. A fine salty balance in the middle leads the spiciness into a powerful chilli pepper catch as you swallow. Intense concentrated apple sweetness becomes singed and mingles with wood smoke. Brine mixed with apple juice and hot cinnamon spice. Tarry notes and coiled ropes sit at the core, with an underlying layer of char and sultana -studded sponge cake with burned edges. With a drop of water, the sweet fruitiness and saltiness come into their own.

FINISH: Long, sustained and lightly smoky, with lingering warming spice and char lingering with flashes of orchard fruit, toffee and smouldering oak.

CLYNELISH 12-YEAR-OLD: THE GOLDEN-EYED GUARDIAN

Clynelish 12 YO Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky 70cl/58.5% ABV.

Clynelish Distillery was built on the coast of Sutherland County in the Highlands region of Scotland more than 2 centuries ago. Today, Clynelish is known for its sweet floral aromas and verdant flavour. Diageo's annual Special Releases Collection pushes the boundaries of aroma and flavour.

A welcome return to the Special Releases for Clynelish with a whisky that’s not quite what you might expect. While the distillery is more known for bourbon-cask-matured drams, this whisky spent more than two years finishing in oloroso- and PX-sherry casks, adding in layers of dark fruit and spice on top of the trademark waxiness.

A cask-strength 12-year-old Clynelish bottled for Diageo's Special Releases 2022, this Clynelish subtitle presumably refers to its rich gold colour and perhaps also to the fact that it's clearly one of the picks of the 2022 litter. Bottled at a sturdy 58.5%, this Special Releases Clynelish 12-year-old bursts with flavour. A few drops of water bring out the herbal notes in this beautiful sipper.

TASTING NOTES

NOSE: Fruit cake, brown sugar, Danish pastries, sticky baked apples and vanilla sauce. Fruitiness slowly starts to poke its way through – apples, pears and pineapples. At the back is thick and fruity toffee sauce, stirred through with raisins.

PALATE: Rich, rounded and thick – actively thick on the palate. Apples, sultanas and raisins start fresh and are slowly cooked down into a rich sauce. Minty touches give a burst of further freshness that fades to reveal another round of rich spice and a touch of dark chocolate.

FINISH: Layers of orchard fruit and chocolate at first. Apples linger as polished oak and buttery notes build.

                  

OBAN 10-YEAR-OLD: THE CELESTIAL BLAZE

Oban’s still house, like that of Royal Lochnagar's, points to it being a heavy, sulphury site. The stills are small and onion-shaped and condensing takes place in worm tubs. They do not run every day. In fact, Oban produces significantly less than it could. The reason for this is to retain its character. Oban’s make is light rather than heavy, and that means a lot of copper contact is needed – tricky in a small still/worm tub site. The solution is to run the worms hot which extends the amount of copper available and also to open the doors of the stills after distillation to allow oxygen to rejuvenate the copper. The result is a clean, intensely fruity spirit which after ageing in refill casks also has a tingling mineral spiciness which some pick up as saltiness.

It’s rare to see new Oban bottlings and we thoroughly welcome this one into the fold. Matured first in a combination of refill and new American-oak casks it is then further matured in Amontillado-seasoned casks to bring a refined and restrained sherry character to this very softly smoky and briny dram. The result is as expected, an elegant sherry-forward, dried and fresh fruit layer that complements Oban's orangey distillery character, with creaminess and wine-poached fruit.

APPEARANCE: Pale, ethereal gold

BODY: Medium

NOSE: Gentle in feel, with no prickle. The top notes are faint at first yet grow easier to make out. Apples, oranges and sultanas at first, with hints of spice. The sultana notes build but never overpower. Creaminess develops, dusted with lemon zest and a little brown sugar. Toffee and milk-chocolate notes emerge from the depths and crunchy pear sits around the edges. It’s studded with maritime hints of salt crystal, edible seaweed, and ozone-fresh sea air. As the senses adjust a very faint smokiness appears, infused with mere suggestions of lint and light olive oil, and a light note of lemon citrus fruit.

PALATE: The texture is soft and creamy-smooth, while the taste shines brightly with wine-fruit notes that carry hints of sweet violet and spiced plum. Apples, pears and cream lead to milk chocolate and orange fondant. Soft toffee and a grind of black pepper grow in intensity, with pear, a pinch of chilli heat and green-capsicum flavour. Dark-chocolate notes develop with a touch of sweet liquorice. The fruit is balanced by a lively spiciness first met as saltiness mid-palate, then in a blazing dash of chilli pepper. A little water softens the taste, taming the spiciness without altering the balance overall.

FINISH: Chilli spice tingles reveal wine-poached pears and crunchy apples. Quite long and surprisingly peppery, leaving a smooth memory of chilli pepper in the maritime aftertaste. 

CAMERON BRIDGE 26-YEAR-OLD: THE KNIGHT’S GOLDEN TRIUMPH

A first entry for Cameronbridge, Diageo’s biggest distillery and one of the biggest in Europe. For its inaugural appearance, the team have left the whisky simple and expressive – it has matured in refill American oak casks for its full term. This is all about showing the distillery's soft, sweet and toffee-forward character. Aged solely in refill-bourbon casks, it lets the spirit do the talking A ‘long and gentle’ maturation, just the thing to show off the grain whisky’s sweet and fragrant character.

Single Grain Scotch Whisky Distillery Bottling 70cl / 56.2% ABV

According to legend, a brave knight forged a crown in a 26-year struggle. As he stormed the River Ore in triumph, he held his flag aloft, its long sky-blue ribbons falling away, dissolving in the river's gentle current and turning the water to sweet, silky gold. A majestic distillery was born there and, as history has it, gold has flowed through the river every 26 years ever since. You can taste its brilliant character in every sip of the Cameronbridge 26-year-old.

In 1824 the Cameronbridge Grain Distillery grew in popularity and became the most enduring heir to one of the oldest whisky dynasties. Regarded as regal, velvety and refined in their richness, its whiskies are renowned for their silky and honeyed character, which has appealed to tastes around the world.

The Cameronbridge 26-year-old shines golden in the sun and swirls silky soft in the glass. The subtle aroma exudes a hint of spices, whose notes are flanked by hints of hard toffee and fine oak shavings. The smooth, flowing texture harbours a sweet taste with caramel toffee and intense oak dryness. Expect a royal drop of opulent wealth that lives up to its heritage.

APPEARANCE: Pale gold

NOSE: Delicately spicy aromas of ripe grains, behind them ripe mangoes and papayas with clear aromas of hard toffee and fresh oak shavings - cinnamon buns warmed with a little water and salted toffee - above all fragrant beeswax

PALATE: Silky and smooth with an intense caramel-sweet flavour that transforms into rich caramel toffee - then balancing, spicy-dry notes follow with hints of oak with a little water, the honey-like sweetness softens to creamy-smooth milk chocolate with just a little Salt paired with a gentle spice

FINISH: short and intense on the finish, with a clear warming chilli heat - slightly sweeter and less hot with water

 



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