A SIMPLE WALLET GAME
There are many factors which
decide prices. In the whisky industry, demand and supply are not the only
things that affect price, even though these factors are a big part of
the equation. Cost of manufacturing, marketing
cost, cask prices and logistic costs have a major role to play. Noel Moitra
Whisky is on an upward trend in consumers preferences
around the world since 2010. The last ten years had seen tremendous growth in
consumers choosing whisky over other kinds of spirits. While there was a period
where gin gained traction, it died down pretty quickly with the rise of more
whisky choices. With the overwhelming preference from consumers globally,
market forces began to act on the prices of whisky.
We saw rapid growth for particular brands of whiskies,
especially those which won awards. An excellent example would, of course, be
Yamazaki. The brand shot to fame overnight after its Sherry Cask 2014 won the
converted award of Best Whisky in the World as did Indri Trini and Grant’s
Balvenie. Since then, the prices of all their bottlings have rocketed
northwards.
This worldwide phenomenon is seen by some critics as
silly, but others, including investors, are willing to fight for a bottle of
Chichibu for its perceived value. Such whiskies are mainly designed for collections.
Scotch whiskies are steadily increasing in prices. The
demand for specific brands also shot the prices of these whiskies skyward,
making them harder to find and difficult to afford. Some examples of Scotch
whiskies that are getting too expensive include Clynelish, Oban, the LVMH group
(Ardbeg and Glenmorangies), Lagavulin and to some extent, Ben Nevis.
Nonetheless, the bottles that are going up in prices are mostly independent
bottlings. The standard distillery bottles are still affordable, if only just!
Limited release special edition bottles are some of the
most prized. They are also some of the most expensive. These in particular are
not easy to get your hands on, but there are reasons why they are worth looking
at more closely.
Retailers can price their product as they wish. It’s
common to find limited edition whiskies selling as much as twice their
suggested retail price, if you can find them at all.
HAVE THE MONEY?
Mortlach Midnight Malt 30-YO
The pinnacle of the Mortlach portfolio, this is the
boldest, richest and darkest of their malts. A rich, deep, dark whisky to
savour slowly in the darker hours.
When day transcends to night, as light changes and
shadows emerge, senses are heightened, conversations take an intriguing twist
and the deepest darkest secrets are revealed. Mortlach Midnight Malt captures
the intensity of this moment; a rare & magnetic invitation into the
boldest, deepest and most intriguing expression of their malt. This incredibly
rich, full-bodied whisky is distilled in six stills a total of 2.81 times,
split and finished in three casks—Bordeaux, Guatemalan rum, and calvados—then
married in custom quarter casks. The result is intense, but with complex fruit
notes, chocolates, caramel, and a long black pepper finish.
Mortlach bills itself as the “first legal distillery in
Dufftown,” dating back to 1823 (with bootlegging rampant on site before that);
the whiskies are elegant and complex and reflect their coastal origins with a
bold intensity (the Mortlach 20-Year won Double Gold at this year’s New York
International Spirits Competition). Only 350 bottles of this extra-aged spirit
(49.1% ABV) are released annually. Cost US$5,000.
Appearance: Old gold, dull amber. Excellent beading.
Body: Full.
Nose: Classic Mortlach elements kick the experience
off, featuring sultry roasted grains, sherry-like notes of oxidised wines,
gentle sandalwood, and — with ample swirling — a spicy cinnamon apple
character. A mellow nose with some initial prickle. This settles in time to
reveal a savoury and faintly herbal top note, suggesting pork crackling
sprinkled with dry sage. Beneath lies a deeper, more vinous note with intriguing
and rich notes of dark rum, toffee brittle and drying traces of chocolate.
Palate: A richly winey, apple fruity and mouth-watering
start delights the palate, backed by a long spicy intensity with a delicious
black pepper note that really persists. Clove and nutmeg are surprisingly
lengthy as the finish builds, though as they fade a wood-infused sweetness
begins to take hold. Touches of rum-driven molasses are most evident here, with
a pinch of black pepper giving the whisky some grip.
Finish: Long, sweet, and deep-flavoured with a light
peppery spiciness. With water, still sweet and softer, with the spicy heat
joined by a suggestions of mint chocolate in the lingering aftertaste.
Talisker Glacial Edge 45-YO 70 Cl 48.9% ABV
Talisker is one of those remote Scottish distilleries known for
releasing bold expressions with tons of character. Glacial Edge is the
latest release in Talisker’s Xpedition Trilogy.
It’s the brand’s first ever 45-year-old bottling, and the third year
partnering with Parley for the Oceans,
an organisation to documenting and preserving marine ecosystems. Single
malt Scotch was aged over four decades, and then finished in
“ice-fractured oak casks.” The technique is a first for Talisker: a
dozen heavily-chared American oak casks are transported to Canada’s
glacial ice fields. The ends are removed and the wood exposed to
freezing temperatures and high Arctic winds for four days, creating
unique fractures in the wood. The idea is that there is additional
surface area in each cracked stave to interact more intensely with the
aged whiskey. The result is a dry, deep single malt with bright pepper
spices. You’ll get tons of vanilla, oak, hints of stone fruit and green
apple, and light smoke and earth. Cost:US$5,000
The distillery’s first-ever release of a
45-year-old Single Malt Scotch whisky, unearths new, resilient depths of the
Talisker character. Revealing unexplored richness, complexity and a unique
untamed flavour which is attributed to the whisky travelling deeper into the
casks to obtain spicier and sweeter aromas from the American Oak ex-Bourbon
barrels. Finished in ice-fractured casks to unearth a new depth of flavour,
this exquisitely rare new Single Malt Scotch whisky from Talisker is the final
release in a series of adventures in wild whisky making. This is not the oldest Talisker ever. A 46 YO was available in the fourth Diageo Prima And Ultima collection just released, a 70 CL bottle at 50.9% ABV.
Appearance: Glowing amber. Exceptional beading.
Body: Full and rich.
Nose: Rich, dry and mellow overall, with a light
peppery prickle at first. Clear maritime top notes speak of tide-line seaweed,
sand dunes, iodine; their mineral companions suggest slaked lime and salt
crystals. Behind them a faint dried fruit complex with hints of fig, sultana,
or prune lends body and richness. Light smoke threads the background, touched
by aromatic sandalwood. A drop of water tends to close the aromas yet adds
richness to the fruity sweetness, with notes of fruit salad coming through.
Palate: The texture is all-enveloping; smooth and
mouth-filling. On first sip the taste starts richly sweet, while it becomes
delightfully salty, smoky and increasingly peppery mid-palate; even at this age
there is still a fine chilli ’catch’. A dash of water reduces the peppery note
slightly and there is more attractive saltiness, suggesting salted caramels.
Finish: Very long, with a trace of candle wax in a
glorious chilli pepper effect that grows and glows in the aftertaste. Saltier
at reduced strength and slightly less peppery, now with faint scented smoke in
the aftertaste.
The Dalmore Cask Curations Series: The Sherry Edition
One of the most exciting releases of the year has got
to be The Dalmore’s inaugural Cask Curations Series, the first of which
highlights and honors the distillery’s longstanding relationship with
fifth-generation winemakers González Byass in Jerez de la Frontera—a city in
the Andalusian region of southern Spain known for its centuries-long culture of
sherry production.
Led by the charismatic master winemaker Antonio Flores
and his daughter Silvia, González Byass (which, by the way, is the largest
sherry producer in the world) worked with The Dalmore master whisky maker Gregg
Glass and master distiller Richard Paterson OBE to select extraordinary sherry
casks with which to finish Scotch matured north of twenty years in ex-bourbon
American oak casks. In its own way, it’s a genuine collaboration between
distillers and winemakers to find the perfect match to yield the best outcomes.
The result? An exceptional trio of collectible
age-statement single malt whiskies worthy of any true Scotch aficionado who
knows what’s what. First up: The 26-Year, which is the
youngest of the bunch. This 48.2% ABV (96.4-proof
in the USA), straw-coloured whisky—first distilled in 1996—was finished in a
2002 vintage oloroso sherry cask (cask No. 4, if we want to be precise) that
was home to 87% Palo Cortado sherry and 13% Pedro Ximénez for two years, after
spending 24 years in ex-bourbon refill barrels. On the palate, the first sip is
one of profound sweetness—without being overwhelming—with notes of honey,
fruit-forward milk chocolate, and orange rind.
Then there’s the 28-Year that clocks in at 55.3% ABV
having rested for an extensive 19 years in a 30-year-old Matusalem sherry cask
that once held 75% oloroso sherry; with 25% Pedro Ximénez added midlife. As you
can imagine, this particular expression brings on different waves and depths of
flavor ranging from dried stone fruit and dark cacao nibs to manuka honey. Add
a drop or two of water and it opens up with some flourishing tropical notes.
Lastly, the final and oldest whisky in the collection:
a 46.8& ABV (93.6-proof in the USA), 43-Year that’s remarkably light in
colour and on the palate, which was finished for 12 years in a 30-year-old
Apostoles vinum optimum rare signatum (VORS) cask. Shorter in finish than the
28-Year, this four-decade-old expression is sophisticated in its lightness and
is reminiscent of shortbread—with a hint of leather and salinity at the back
palate.
The trio — magnificent as individual bottlings— can only be
purchased as a complete collection, replete with a bespoke bright red leather
travel case handcrafted in Florence. And competition will be fierce if you’re
looking to get your hands on one: There are only 150 sets available globally
and each one will set you back $37,000. (Pro tip: London-based Whisky Exchange
may have some on hand.)
And if you’re not able to get your hands on this
edition, The Dalmore will be releasing the second iteration of its Cask Curations
Series next year—this time spotlighting its partnership with a well-respected
Port producer.
The Macallan Colour Collection
Released in Autumn of 2023, The Macallan’s Colour
Collection—which is sold solely a as travel exclusive in major airports around the
world and The Macallan Global Boutiques in London, New York, Taipei, and
Dubai—celebrates the brand’s dedication to the sherry-seasoned oak casks it’s
so well known for.
Predominantly made with American oak casks and a
“subtle touch” of European oak, the new line includes five age statement
whiskies in varying price points: 12-Year ($80), 15-Year ($165), 18-Year
($350), 21-Year ($1,100), and 30-Year ($4,455). And as the collection’s name
implies, each of expressions is the meant to illustrate how maturation in The
Macallan’s choice casks strongly influences not just the flavour profile of its
single malts, but its colours as well—from the light amber of the 12-Year to
the deep ochre of the 30-year.
The Macallan Colour Collection is a visual celebration
of commitment to natural colour and sherry seasoning, with each of the five
distinctive whiskies taking travelers through a compelling sensory journey of
the remarkable spectrum of natural hues derived from maturation in The
Macallan’s sherry seasoned oak casks. It is these exceptional oak casks which
are the single greatest contributor to the quality, flavours, and distinctive
aromas at the heart of their single malts. Deepening in colour with age, each
expression tells its own story and is a prism through which consumers can
explore the unique characteristics which underpin the exceptional
craftsmanship, renowned quality and rich character of their single malt whisky.
After a good 13 years of biding their time, the distillery
now has a robust supply of aged whiskies to allow age statement Macallans back
in airports. This isn’t a limited edition to be clear – in fact this range will
become a familiar sight in many major airports in the years to come. This is a
major overhaul of the brand's Global Travel Retail offerings, with the Colour
Collection permanently replacing The Macallan Quest range, a series of non-age
statement whiskies that have been a staple in Macallan’s GTR channels since
2017. The new range with its five age-statement single malts is a treat for
those who habitually purchase The Macallan whisky at airport duty free stores,
since it marks the return of age-statement Macallan whisky to such outlets
after more than a decade; age statement Macallan whiskies had largely vanished
from their repertoire since 2009.
The GlenDronach Annual Grandeur release — Batch 12— 2023
Every year since its inception
in 2010, each limited edition batch of The GlenDronach Grandeur series has been
highly anticipated and acclaimed, revered by connoisseurs, Gen Next and malt whisky
aficionados all over the world for its character and full-bodied style and this is one of its most
luxurious expressions to date… Rachel Barrie
This limited-edition sherried expression is an annual ode
to the brand’s signature sherry-imbued style. Grandeur Batch 12 hosts a 29-year
age statement and is made of sherry casks hand-chosen by Master Blender Rachel
Barrie. The whisky is bottled at 49.2% ABV, matured in Oloroso sherry casks and
hit the shelves in select markets for the price of $830.
The GlenDronach’s commitment to creating Single Malts
using time-honored methods passed down through the generations for almost two
centuries, is encapsulated in this hand-crafted limited release, with each
individual bottle sealed with wax and numbered by hand to reflect its rarity. Having
matured slowly and deeply in Oloroso sherry casks for nearly three decades,
this expression from one of the oldest licensed distilleries in Scotland
epitomises the richest rewards bestowed from the finest Spanish oak sherry
casks.
Oloroso sherry is a nutty and slightly oxidative style
of sherry. Oloroso sherries are aged primarily without flor. They go directly
into the solera system with a higher alcohol content—a level at which flor does
not grow—and are sweeter and fuller-bodied than other expressions like Fino.
Oloroso means "fragrant," and, true to their name, these sherries are
bursting with aromas and flavours that range from dried fruit to leather,
tobacco, and wood. Though less dry than the Fino and Amontillado varieties,
Olorosos are still dry overall, but with a rounder mouthfeel and light
sweetness.
The GlenDronach Grandeur Batch 12 Official Tasting
Notes
Appearance: Dark mahogany.
Nose: Intensely nutty with overtones of coffee, rich
and leathery with its enduring toasty, woody, vaguely floral qualities. Rich
sherry aromatics with cocoa, damson plum and glazed cherry. Aromas of spiced
bramble and luscious dates with walnuts and coffee.
Palate: the whisky is surprisingly gentle and mild, all
of the above notes well-represented — and beautifully integrated. There’s more
baking spice here than expected, with ginger and cinnamon particularly
prominent. A sensuous blend of raisin and dark plum, with cocoa and dessert
characteristics. Cherry brandy and espresso are interlaced throughout. The ABV
of 49.2% feels just about perfect, tempering any sense of heat and leaving room
for smoldering but elegant notes in the finish.
Finish: Rich with tobacco and sherry-soaked walnuts.
Bowmore Aston Martin Masters Selection 3
For decades, both Bowmore & Aston Martin have endeavoured
to craft, create and curate, bringing beautiful whiskies and breath-taking cars
to life. A perfect collaboration, each limited edition single malt is created
by the Master Blender at Bowmore distillery and the Chief Creative Officer of
Aston Martin. By bringing these two worlds and these two creators together,
they call on their shared experience and skills to create a whisky which tells
the story of the synergy between the two iconic British brands.
Early in October 2023, Islay Scotch Whisky distillery
Bowmore and luxury car company Aston Martin announced the latest whisky in
their partnership: Bowmore Masters’ Selection Third Edition. The release hosts
a suggested retail price of $400 in a global rollout. The 22-year-old single
malt whisky was double-matured in European Oak casks seasoned with Oloroso
Sherry and a mixture of American Oak hogsheads.
In the creation of every individual Bowmore, their Master
Blender undertakes an endless search for depth; of character, of flavour and
with every step they capture the very essence of the past 240 years. This unique
whisky celebrates this defining constant which drives, inspires and immerses participants
in this quest. The impressive Islay single malt pays homage to the definitive
and constant character of Bowmore, presented at 51.0% ABV.
The brands have held a partnership since 2020, and
several high-profile whiskies have been released throughout it. Some have
fetched eye-watering prices at auction. In May, the companies released a unique
decanter of whisky that went up for auction at Sotheby’s and sold for nearly
$300,000.
The quest is without compromise and could be called
obsessive, but that is what makes the team relentless in their approach. They
push the bespoke nature of their craft to the limits in pursuit of perfection. They
never stop short or settle for anything but the best to achieve the beauty
which defines the brand. This whisky is a testament to their passion, talent
and human skill.
Marking the fifth bottle collaboration in a series of
releases since 2020, Masters’ Selection Third Edition represents a partnership
driven by a consistency, inherent in each of the Masters’ own approach that
comes to life, informed by beauty, knowledge, and inspiration. Strength and depth unite, just as sweetness
and intensity combine to create a powerfully rich and captivating symphony of
flavours.
Crafted with consideration over 240 years, Bowmore has
an inherent appreciation as to how each moment comes to bear on the character
of the whisky, and how time past has shaped today. Rooted in intentionality,
Bowmore’s whiskies are made with purpose, shaping every drop, adding depth and
distinction of flavour to shape each single malt. It is this precise ethos which
drives the collaboration: sharing the intention to manifest beautiful, timeless
creations that define a collaborative legacy, with a firm eye on the future,
inspiring what comes next.
The Aston-Bowmore brand describes the whisky as
“powerfully rich,” and hosting a “captivating symphony of flavours; without
doubt the most exhilarating and rewarding of collaborations.”
Laphroaig Honours Passionate
Whisky Makers With 36-Year Scotch
On 20 Nov 2023, Laphroaig unveiled the inaugural bottle
of The Archive Collection, which boasts a 36-year age statement. The expression
was meant to celebrate the whisky makers of Laphroaig, who have been custodians
of the scotch for three decades.
The Archive Collection: 36 Years Old was aged in
American ex-Bourbon casks before being finished in a second-fill hogshead that
once housed oloroso sherry. The scotch hosts an ABV of 40.2% and is bottled at
cask strength. This 36 YO is a testament to their master distillers’ skills in
ensuring that the peat and smokiness of a 36-year-old single malt is preserved
and enhanced by age. In fact, its maturation has been overseen by six different
distillery managers!
Just 400 bottles of the expression are available for
purchase at a suggested retail price of £3,750 ($4,663).
The bottle for The Archive Collection: 36 Years Old is
hand-blown, and meant to serve as a nod to the sea glass found on the beaches
near the Beam Suntory-owned distillery. The level of liquid in each bottle may appear to be different, but will be filled to 70cl
As a whisky which has been shaped and rounded over
decades, the bottle used to house the liquid is inspired by green Islay sea
glass often found swept up on the island's beaches. The unique hand-blown glass
design was meant to echo the sea glass with its bright green colour, sculpted
curves and a textured neck. Laphroaig have done away with traditional printed
labels for this one-of-a-kind collectors’ item, and have chosen to laser etch
the text directly onto the bottle.
The whisky offers the distinctive flavour profile of
Laphroaig, featuring the familiar peat, smoke and salt. The single malt reveals
a surprising fruitiness in the glass, featuring tropical notes underpinned by
dark toffee and vanilla. Subsequent releases will follow later in 2024.
Nose: Honey sweet with white peach and mango, creamy
dark toffee, vanilla and cedar wood, subtle oil of wintergreen and hints of
singed sage and liquorice root peak through.
Palate: Sweet with orange zest and tropical fruit,
mouth coating initially then moving to mouth drying.
Finish: Warm and lingering which brings out the peat in
the mouth and the salt from the sea on the lips.
Tobermory 23 YO Oloroso
Sherry Cask
Mull's only Scotch whisky
distillery produces both peated and unpeated whisky for use in the well-known Black
Bottle and Scottish Leader blends, as well as for Ledaig and Tobermory single
malts.
Island Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Tobermory is an Island distillery located in Scotland’s
Inner Hebrides. Founded on the Isle of Mull in 1798, it is one of the country’s
oldest distilleries, having been operating for over two centuries. Tobermory is
one of very few distilleries that produce more than one whisky, sibling Ledaig itself
a wondrous surprise. Yes it is peated, but completely different from its Islay
cousins. Ledaig is very much in the Manzanilla mould: bright and fresh, with a
wonderful salinity. The peat is a delicate whisper. Tobermory itself is an
unpeated malt, delicate and fruity, with a lightly honeyed nuttiness. It is
likely that in its earliest incarnation Ledaig was a peated malt, but in more
recent times both peated and unpeated whisky has been made and bottled as both
Ledaig and Tobermory. Thankfully, this has now been resolved with Ledaig now
only being used for the heavily-peated variant. Equal amounts of both styles
are currently being made.
This limited edition Tobermory 23-year-old Oloroso sherry
finish is the first of five planned annual releases for the distillery's
Hebridean Series. The fermentation time is relatively short, but it is the
unusually shaped stills which lie at the heart of the Tobermory style. They
have both boil bulbs and a strange S-shaped kink in their lyne arms, all of
which increases reflux. Today, the single malt bottlings are non-chill-filtered
and bottled at a standard 46.3% ABV.
Tobermory draws its water from a nearby private loch.
This water is peated, which means they use unpeated barley (unlike the Ledaig,
which uses peated barley) to ensure just a subtly smokey character. American
oak casks are then used for maturation, with sherry casks often used for
finishing. Interestingly, ageing takes place at the Deanston distillery.
After a two-year hiatus, the Tobermory 12 Year Old was
released in 2019. This is the flagship bottling in the range, replacing the 10
Year Old. The distillery also offers a variety of limited edition finishes, as
well as their Hebridean Series - which includes the stunning 23 year old single
malt.
The ‘return of an old friend’, this spirit was
originally the Tobermory 15 Year Old release. They left the whisky in their
Oloroso casks for 8 more years to create this delicious new edition with a
natural, deep rose gold colour to the core range. The result is an exquisite
sherried malt without chill-filtration, which is entwined with numerous
flavours and mouthfeel to satiate even the most demanding.
Island Single Malt Scotch Whisky Distillery Bottling
70CL 46.3% ABV
Nose: The nose is sweet and citrussy, with vanilla,
ripe oranges, toasted barley and rich fruitcake with a hint of cocoa.
Palate: Obvious sherry influence, salted toffee,
vanilla fudge and spicy oak, with candied citrus and floral honey.
Finish: Caramelised walnuts with a subtle salty
undercurrent that lingers on. Gorgeous.
Glenmorangie's Limited Super Rare Expression
THE SONOMA CUTRER WINE CASK 25 YO
Dr Bill Lumsden, Head of Distilling & Whisky
Creation at both The Glenmorangie Company and Ardberg, created in 2020 another excellent limited edition whisky finished in Chardonnay casks hailing from
renowned wine producer Sonoma-Cutrer in Sonoma Valley, California, which wines are similar to
Burgundy’s Meursault wines. The 1000 bottles of this expression were released in early 2021.
Glenmorangie’s whisky makers are endlessly creative on
their quest to bring delicious single malts to the world. In Scotland’s tallest
stills, whose necks are as high as a giraffe, they distill a more delicate
spirit, ripe for experimentation. Then they age their whisky in the finest
casks, sourced from far and wide. The price tag is certainly not a low figure, either.
Most wine geeks relish Californian Chardonnay and during
a visit there Lumsden persuaded Sonoma-Cutrer to sell him
a few casks for experimentation. They agreed and in 2005, Bill filled those casks with ten year old whisky - some that was distilled in his first days at the
distillery back in February 1995. The casks were then put away to mature and
allow the flavours to mingle together over 15 years.
After numerous tastings, Dr Bill decided
when the whisky was ready - and ready it most certainly tasted. The 50.4% ABV whisky is deep ochre in colour and with the same characteristic floral aromas and
bready notes Glenmorangie is famous for, there is a wide range of citrus fun from
grapefruit and fresh orange peel and to marmalade and lemon balm. A honey and
lemon hot toddy as well as marshmallow, smoked pear, earthy biscuits and spicy
ginger with a peppery kick on the tongue. It pairs well with a wide variety of dishes, such as pan-seared foie gras with caramelized figs, citrusy salmon tartare,
or even a rosemary-infused roast beef.
All in all, it's super smooth and
mellow, with a beautiful, buttery, sunshine finish reminiscent of the fruity,
golden Chardonnay the casks once held.
This Sonoma-Cutrer Reserve whisky was created as part
of an experiment, where only 1000 bottles exist, each one hand-signed by Dr
Bill Lumsden himself. They have described it as Glenmorangie’s ‘most rare and
unique creations’.
Tasting Notes
Colour: Burnished Bronze
Nose: Fresh and floral, with scents of carnations,
roses and narcissi, heightened by a sweet waxy note. Glenmorangie’s hallmark
tones of vanilla, pear and peach follow, with a gentle tang of mandarin orange.
A splash of water reveals a flinty note and more
mouth-watering mandarin, this time rich with Chantilly cream.
Palate: Almost sparkling textures bring a cascade of
vanilla and Victoria sponge cake, laced with mandarin segments in syrup, zesty
lemon and poached pears. Then a rounded oaky smoothness flows into bold buttery
notes, coconut and almond, lifted by hints of pineapple and melon.
Finish: Subtle and honeyed, with final suggestions of
cocoa powder, toffee apple and fudge.
The Glenmorangie Sonoma-Cutrer Reserve 25 Year Old
Single Malt was released exclusively through the Moët Hennessy
Private Client team. RRP £1,750 (US$2,440)
per 700ml bottle, 50.4% ABV.
