CAOL ILA: THE SUM OF MANY PARTS
A MAJOR PLAYER IN THE WALKER
FAMILY
Caol Ila, pronounced “Cul-EE-lah” is the Gaelic name for the Sound of Islay, which separates the island from Jura. For some, the distillery’s pronunciation is as remote as its location, sitting as it does on the rugged eastern coast, where it has remained hidden from view since 1846. What ever you say, the fine, smoky whisky produced by generations of islanders is worth exploring.
Caol Ila is often termed 'Mr Consistent'. It is, I believe, a fair
assessment. The largest distillery on Islay in terms of volume, Caol Ila always
seems to manage to hit the perfect balance between maturity and distillery
character, no matter whether it is in official or independent bottlings.
Caol Ila is an interesting phenomena where a ‘brand’ is
a victim of the twin forces of its own ubiquity and quality. One can’t help but
love its punchy, distillate-forward style. What’s more, it’s one of those
extremely rare names that have always sheltered quality from the first known
bottled examples hailing from the old distillery, right through to the present
day make. Perhaps these ultra-lean modern examples aren’t as majestic as their
1960s counterparts, but then again, few spirits on this whole planet are. Today
sees a healthy jumble of diverse expressions, from a never ending stream
of new distilleries!
CAOL ILA DISTILLERY: ISLAY SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY
Caol Ila's distillery character manages to combine a
fresh pear note, grassiness, a hint of juniper and distinct notes of the
seashore – lobster shells, crab creels and gentle smoke. Although it receives
the same spec of malt as sister distillery Lagavulin, Caol Ila’s distillation
regime – longer fermentation, higher cut point, taller stills – helps to reduce
the heavy phenols. Located just feet from the salty ocean waters, four large pot stills operate at 50% capacity 24 hours a day. This low fill allows for high copper contact and plenty of interaction time within the still.
With 34 ppm of phenols, Caol Ila is not the most heavily
peated of Islay malts, but – on paper at least – it’s no shrinking violet. However,
it’s moderated here by the exclusive use of ex-bourbon barrels, and they lend a
subtlety and distinction to this very well mannered islander. The wood regime
is also evident in the light colour of the spirit. Maturation for the single
malt is in refill casks. The unpeated variant is equally delicate, with a
fresh, estery and almost floral lift.
Its importance for blends meant that, until 2002, when
a 12-year-old was released, malt lovers had to seek out independent bottlings.
Now there is a range including the NAS Moch, 18-year-old and 25-year-old, a
finished Distiller’s Edition and annual special releases.
In 1846, one Hector Henderson, who owned the old
Camlachie distillery in Glasgow, decided to build a small distillery in a tight
bay next to Port Askaig, on Islay’s east coast. He named his venture Caol Ila,
Gaelic for the Sound of Islay, the stretch of water which it overlooked.
In 1857, Henderson was bought out by blender Bulloch
Lade, who improved the site by building a substantial pier. Ever since, Caol
Ila has its own pier where early day steam ships or coal fired puffers and
today’s barges can unload supplies and load up on whisky for sale on the
mainland. Caol Ila has seen many owners. Consecutive owners included Henderson,
Lamont & Co, Norman Buchanan (1863-1879). According to the 1871 census,
Duncan Johnston was the Distillery Manager at the time. Duncan was the nephew
of John Johnston of Lagavulin and cousin to the Laphroaig Johnstons and so the
family were involved with yet another distillery on the island. By the 1880s
over 147,000 imperial gallons (670,000 L) of whisky were produced there each
year. Caol Ila was liquidated by Bulloch Lade and sold to J. P. O'Brien Ltd in
1920, who in turn sold it to a consortium –Caol Ila Distillery Co Ltd. the same
year.
It was absorbed into DCL (now Diageo) in 1927. DCL and
transferred Caol Ila to Scottish Malt Distillers Ltd in 1930 - who then shut it
down again. The Caol Ila distillery was silent until 1934 and after some
activity, restrictions on people, power and barley mean the distillery had to
close again in 1941, during part of the second World War. It then ran
continuously until 1972, when the old distillery was demolished and a new,
significantly larger one was built with six stills rather than two, by 1974.
This transformed Caol Ila into Islay’s largest producer in order to meet
increased demand from the blenders. Only the warehouses (filled with maturing
whisky) were spared. After 1974, Caol Ila started to buy their malted barley
from the Port Ellen maltings. The pure spring water is from the nearby Loch nam
Ban. Some people make a clear distinction between the heavier 'old' Caol Ila
that was produced before 1972 and the lighter, cleaner spirit that was
distilled after the expansion in 1974.
The Caol Ila distillery became part of the United
Distillers conglomerate in 1986. In 1989, the first 'semi-official' bottling
was released in the 'Flora & Fauna' range. This would be the only official
bottling for quite some time (not counting releases in the 'Rare Malts' series).
These days official bottlings are widely available. In
2002 Caol Ila introduced a complete 'core range'. Apart from the fairly
standard 12yo, 18yo and Cask Strength bottlings, Diageo also releases
occasional single cask bottlings as well.
Independent bottlings have become easier to find as
well. When casks of Lagavulin and Laphroaig became harder to acquire after the
year 2000, independent bottlers started to release more private and 'bastard'
bottlings too.
Although the profile of Caol Ila as a single malt has
been enhanced in recent years, the main function of the distillery is still the
production of malt whiskies for the Johnnie Walker blends. Among single malt
whisky lovers, Caol Ila is known as a relatively clean peated whisky - but the
whisky that is used for blends is actually UNPEATED.
Unbeknownst to many, the Caol Ila distillery actually
started with trial runs with unpeated whisky in the 1980's. These tests were
deemed successful, so this 'Highland' Caol Ila became part of the regular
production process. (For circa two decades this unpeated whisky was used almost
exclusively for blends, but in 2006 it was introduced as an 8 years old single
malt. Three years later a 10yo Cask Strength variety was added.)
These were still the days before the single malt market
had really taken off, and its make was destined for a huge array of blends
across the whole whisky industry – most notably within its parent company, it
filled massive requirements for Johnnie Walker.
When the downturn came in the 1980s, Caol Ila began
running unpeated ‘Highland style’ for blends. Not only did it have capacity,
but doing so allowed the distillery to stay open. Unpeated is still made every
year, with volumes dependent on the forecasts of Diageo’s blending team. In
2011, another major revamp took place with a new mash tun and more washbacks
being installed, which resulted in capacity increasing to 6.5m litres per
annum. During the silent period when contraction was taking place, Bunnahabhain
made the peated requirements.
|
ARTIST'S IMPRESSION OF REWORKED VISITOR CENTRE |
In 2018, Diageo revealed plans to spend £150m on
upgrading tourism facilities, including a new brand home for Johnnie Walker in
Edinburgh, and improved visitor centres at Caol Ila, plus Clynelish, Cardhu and
Glenkinchie, representing regional styles present in Walker. At Caol Ila, a new
visitor centre will be created in the distillery warehouse, including a
footbridge entry, new car parking and a bar with views across the Sound of
Islay to Jura.
CAOL ILA – OTHER DETAILS
Caol Ila is the largest distillery on Islay by far,
producing roughly a quarter of all the malt whisky that is distilled on the
isle of Islay. As such, Caol Ila's capacity dwarfs better known malt whisky
brands like Longmorn, Glenfarclas and Laphroaig and Lagavulin. Caol Ila is
widely open to visitors between April and October - and slightly less so in
November and December.
The location of the distillery is relatively remote,
but the nearby historic site at Loch Finlaggan provides another reason to make
the trip. From a small island in the lake, the ‘Lords of the Isles’ ruled
Scotland for centuries.
Although there is a three storey warehouse on the
distillery grounds, these days the entire production is sent to the mainland
via tanker trucks. So, the young Caol Ila spirit is not filled and matured on
Islay.
These days, Caol
Ila is the largest distillery on Islay by far. With an annual production
capacity of 6.5 million litres of pure alcohol per year it was one of the top
10 distilleries in Scotland in 2015.
By 2013 roughly a third of Caol Ila’s production
consisted of unpeated whisky.
UNPEATED EXPRESSIONS
Caol Ila has 10 washbacks - 8 made out of wood; 2 from
stainless steel.
After the distillery was remodelled and expanded in
1974 to better suit the needs of blenders Caol Ila introduced a novel new
whisky for blenders in the mid 1980's: unpeated malt whisky known as 'Caol Ila
Highland'. This product was intended for blending and most (if not all) casks
would thus have gone to blenders. However, in 1999 Caol Ila resumed production of
unpeated whisky for the 'single malt' market. These bottlings became available
in 2006 or 2007 when Diageo released the first bottling of the Caol Ila 8 Years
Old 'Unpeated'. Since most blenders were not in the habit of storing their
casks for very long (with the exception of Douglas Laing, perhaps) there
probably are not that many casks of the unpeated Caol Ila Highland around - if
any at all...
Caol Ila was the first distillery on Islay that
switched from direct firing of the stills to indirect heating via steam. They
were also the first to trade in their traditional worm tubs for shell and tube
condensers.
In
The New Millennium
2002 - Caol Ila has been one of Diageo's 'volume'
distilleries for quite some time. The only (semi-) official releases were a 'Flora
& Fauna' bottling and a few 'UD Rare Malts' expressions. However, at the
start of the new millennium Diageo wanted to strengthen the Caol Ila brand.
They introduced a range of official bottlings; the "standard" 12
years old whisky, an 18yo and a cask strength version without an age statement.
2005 - Caol Ila is added to the 'Classic Malts' range
of Diageo. This range used to contain only six different single malts
(Cragganmore, Dalwinnie, Glenkinchie, Lagavulin, Oban & Talisker) when it
was introduced in the late 1980's, but in 2005 a bunch of other single malts
suddenly became classic - including Cardhu, Clynelish and Glen Elgin.
2006 - The Caol Ila "Unpeated" (formerly
known as ‘Caol Ila Highland’ to blenders) is released as a 8yo OB.
2014 - As it turns out, Diageo had their eye on the
future when they released the unpeated variety to the general public in 2006.
They kept enough maturing casks in stock to keep releasing older expressions
regularly. A 15yo bottling of unpeated Caol Ila was released in 2014 - as well
as a 30yo peated bottling.
2009 - A ten years old version of the unpeated variety
is released at an higher ‘cask’ strength than the 8yo.
2011 - Diageo keeps expanding Caol Ila’s portfolio,
this time with a 12yo version of the unpeated variety and a new version without
an age statement called “Moch”.