Tuesday, 14 March 2017
MORE TIDBITS ABOUT SCOTCH WHISKY
Tuesday, 28 February 2017
BLENDED MALT WHISKIES
AN EXCELLENT CHANGE: BLENDED MALTS
Blended malts are, as the name suggests, a combination of two or more single malt Scotch whiskies – unlike blends, there’s no grain whisky here. Instead, you have some of the most innovative Scotch whiskies around, from Islay-influenced smoke and seaweed to the typical Speyside character of rich, spiced fruit.
These whiskies are big business in Taiwan, which remains by far the world’s biggest blended malt market. There’s no limit to the number of single malts you can use in a blended malt: while Monkey Shoulder combines only three, Wemyss The Hive comprises no fewer than 16, many of them from Speyside. You might think you’re firmly rooted in Islay when tasting Peat Monster from Compass Box – but peated Speysider Ardmore is a crucial part of the mix. A very large percentage of these expressions are NAS.
Here is my order of priority. The Odyssey is far too expensive to buy, so it's your choice. A bottle every month or two would be fine if there is a well-stocked bar close by.
-Islay Pillaged Malt 2003, with Single Malt whiskies from Ardbeg, Bruichladdich, Bowmore, Bunnahabhain, Caol Ila, Lagavulin & Laphroaig distilleries, bottled at Bruichladdich.
-Celtic Pillage 2005, a cask strength vatting of 12 YO Jura and Bushmills (Northern Ireland).
-Three Isles Classic Pillage, a 10 YO vatting of Ardbeg, Jura and Tobermory.
-Buchanan & Co's Strathconon 12-Year-Old.
-Ardbeg Serendipity NAS, marketed by Glenmorangie
-Chivas Regal Ultis NAS, with SMs from Allt a'Bhainne, Braeval, Longmorn, Strathisla and Tormore
-Johnnie Walker Island Green Label NAS
-Cardhow (Cardhu) 12 YO, run entirely by women. Production stopped in 2009
-Bowmore 12 YO Blended Malt Whisky
-Bell's 12 YO using SMs mainly from Blair Athol, Caol Ila and Glenkinchie
-Clan Denny, both versions, Sweetly Spiced and Heavily Peated
-Johnnie Walker Green Label 16 YO
-Famous Grouse Vintage Malt Whisky 1987
-Wemyss Peat Chimney 46% ABV with Islay Malts
-Angel's Nectar Rich Peat Edition with Highland Malts, NAS 46% ABV
-Highland Journey NAS from Hunter Laing 46.2% ABV Highland Malts
-Poit Dhubh 12 YO Uisge Beatha Albannach. An 8 YO is also available
-J & B Exception 12 YO using Speyside Malts
-Big Peat 54.6% ABV NAS, an all Islay BM with whiskies from Ardbeg, Bowmore, Caol Ila and Port Ellen
-Shackleton's Discovery NAS 47.3% ABV
-Compass Box Spice Tree Extravaganza NAS
-Glenleven 12 Year Old
-William Grant Ghosted Reserve 26 YO 42% ABV
-Compass Box The Peat Monster NAS 46% ABV
-Monkey Shoulder NAS with SMs from Kininvie, Glenfiddich and Balvenie
-Berry Bros & Rudd's Blue Hanger 11th Release NAS 45.6%
-Smokey Joe Islay Blended Malt Whisky NAS 46% ABV
-Sheep Dip 8 YO with 16 SMs from Whyte & Mackay
Friday, 24 February 2017
The MacKinlay Whisky's Journey on Shackleton's Expedition
From The Ice Below Shackleton's Hut To Skilled Recreation:
This Is A Story To Savour In The Telling
46 Cases of Mackinlay's Rare Old Highland Malt
In June 1907, the Glen Mhor distillery in Inverness received an order from the famous explorer Ernest Shackleton for a total of 46 cases of Mackinlay's Rare Old Highland Malt – one of the more indulgent items included among the provisions designed to sustain his British Antarctic Expedition of 1907.
In February 2007, after almost a century entombed in thick ice beneath Shackleton's expedition hut in Antarctica, three crates of this long lost whisky were discovered by a team from the New Zealand Antarctic Heritage Trust. The team was carrying out a full programme of conservation work on the aging expedition hut at Cape Royds when they made their stunning discovery.
However, in line with
international protocols agreed by the Antarctic Treaty Nations, the crates
could not be removed from Antarctica unless it was for conservation or
scientific reasons. The Press Release of Friday 5 February '10 can be read
using this link.
In early 2010, one crate of the whisky was removed from the ice by the Antarctic Heritage Trust and flown directly back to Canterbury Museum for careful thawing and stabilisation. Eventually, this crate was returned – and became one of over 14,000 expedition artefacts which the New Zealand Antarctic Heritage Trust cares for across this frozen continent.
Mackinlay's Rare Old Highland MaltIn Canterbury Museum, the temporarily liberated crate of Mackinlay’s Rare Old Highland Malt was slowly defrosted in a purpose-built cool room. Over a two-week period in mid-2010, while captured in the increasing glare of worldwide media interest, the temperature of the crate itself raised extremely slowly from around -20ºC to 0ºC.
The team of conservators were able to examine the contents and were
eventually delighted to recover 11 bottles, 10 of which are perfectly
intact, still wrapped in protective paper and straw. With the whisky finally freed from the frozen crate, the museum
conservators were able to complete their detailed analysis of the
packaging, labels and bottles. However, the global spotlight was
intensely focused on what these precious artefact bottles contain – a
Highland malt whisky that was already well over 100 years old.
Indeed, never before in the history of whisky experts had access to a
century old bottle of whisky that had been stored in a natural fridge
well beyond human reach. So it was arguably only a slight exaggeration
when this rare and valuable malt was described as ‘a gift from heaven
for whisky lovers’ by Richard Paterson, Master Blender at Whyte &
Mackay, the owners of the Mackinlay brand. And, with the bottles now
ice-free, plans were made to undertake an analysis of the whisky so that
it could be re-created in all its long-lost glory.
In January 2011 three bottles of the Mackinlay’s whisky finally began their return journey to the Highlands of Scotland. The bottles were deemed so rare that the Antarctic Heritage Trust refused to let them travel unaccompanied or in the hold of a plane. So they were personally collected by Whyte & Mackay company owner, Dr Vijay Mallya, and flown back to Scotland onboard his private jet.
Arriving home in Scotland,
for the first time in more than 100 years, the whisky was transported to
W&M’s Invergordon Spirit Laboratory for detailed scientific analysis.
Richard Paterson, and his expert team led by Dr James Pryde, spent several
weeks in the laboratory nosing, tasting and deconstructing the whisky to reveal
its true heritage.
February 2011: Analysis
The analysis of the whisky
first determines its strength at 47.3% alc./vol. The team described the whisky
as light honey in colour, straw gold with shimmering highlights, and with an
aroma that is soft, elegant and refined on the nose. Indeed, detailed nosing
revealed delicate aromas of crushed apple, pear and fresh pineapple with notes
of oak shavings, smoke and hints of buttery vanilla, creamy caramel and nutmeg.
And, finally, the tasting revealed a spirit that has plenty of impact on the
palate; a tantalising array of flavours that is both harmonious and
exhilarating.
Analysis of the cask
extractives indicated that the spirit was matured in American white oak sherry
casks, while testing of the phenol content, which was lighter than expected for
a whisky of this period, revealed that the peat used for the malting originated
in the Orkney Islands.
Indeed, documentary
evidence supports this, recording the supply of peat to both Glen Mhor and Glen
Albyn distilleries in Inverness from the Isle of Eday in Orkney during the
early 1900s. Final examination of each bottle delivered almost identical spirit
profiles, suggesting that these far-travelled bottles may be representative of
all whisky made at Glen Mhor.
Mackinlay’s Shackleton Rare Old Highland Malt - The Journey
MACKINLAY'S THE JOURNEY BOTTLING NOTE
The 2007 discovery of whisky left in Antarctica by Sir Ernest Shackleton during his famous expedition in the early 1900s led to Richard 'The Nose' Paterson using all his skill and experience to recreate this historic whisky, raising £250,000 for the Antarctic Heritage Trust in the process.
Approached by the charity and Alexandra Shackleton (Ernest's grand-daughter) to produce a second edition of his blended malt to coincide with Tim Jarvis' Shackleton Epic (the first authentic re-enactment of Shackleton's extraordinary Antarctic survival journey of 1916), how could Paterson refuse?
Digging out another rare cask of Glen Mhor (an even older one, this time from 1980), as well as some heavily-peated Dalmore(!), he once again recreated the Shackleton whisky, also using malts from Glenfarclas, Mannochmore, Tamnavulin, Ben Nevis, Aultmore, Fettercairn, Pulteney and Jura.
The resulting masterpiece of blending offers something different, whilst clearly coming from the same lineage as his first lovingly recreated malt. A new and critically-acclaimed interpretation of a truly classic whisky.
Thursday, 23 February 2017
PAUL JOHN'S SINGLE MALTS FROM GOA
World Class Single Malts From India
India produces two well-known Single Malt Whiskies that are in demand globally. They come from the Amrut and Paul John Distilleries and are so named. We were lucky to get the former at Rs. 1475/- (US$21.70) per 750 ml bottle, at 43% ABV or 75 proof. The latter is not as easy to obtain and costs a fair amount. There are numerous versions, all NAS (No Age Statement) and at much stronger ratings, like 55% ABV. That said, a few expressions are available at 46% ABV, but not as classy as the stronger versions.
Paul John Distilleries are based in the Cuncolim Industrial Estate, South Goa, an area subject to very high day temperatures and intense humidity. This raises the Angels' share to as much as 10-12% and no barrel under maturation can withstand such high losses per year. Paul John whiskies are mostly in the 4-7 year range, with the odd 3 and 9-year old.
Paul John whiskies are made from only Indian ingredients. They use six-row barley, unlike Scotch whiskies that are made from two-row barley which has very high carbohydrate but low protein content. Six-row barley offers a distinct tannic character to the spirit. The alcohol yield is also much lower.
At Paul John, after grinding where the malted barley is mashed into coarse grist, the three-stage hot water wort creation process is replaced by a single hot water process (70° C). They use eight stainless steel washbacks that hold about 18,000 litres of wort each. They cannot use wooden washbacks as is done in Scottish distilleries because the high humidity and proximity to sea causes the wood to rot, requiring continuous maintenance.
The only import is of two types of Scottish peat, used specifically for kilning (heating) and to increase the phenolic content of the spirit. One type comes from Aberdeen which has a marine and grassy character and the other is from Islay which has obvious high phenolic properties. The raw spirit is made using both these peats and blended according to the desired recipe.
In India, Customs officers go by the final bottling rather than the spirit output at the distillation point. The spirit safe is thus kept unlocked. This helps the blender to gain a real feel of the cut he is going to make. The entire middle cut is done by actual organoleptic senses and by constant monitoring. Paul John extracts the middle cut at 63.5%. In Scottish distilleries, the human element has been gradually removed and the middle cut is made by computer diktats re timing and monitored by a spirit meter.
Paul John produces malt whiskies matured only in imported American Oak barrels and stored in two warehouses, with a total capacity of 10,000 casks. Bottling is done in situ and the whiskies are not chill filtered.
Tasting Notes: Some Paul John Whiskies
Paul John, Edited, 46%, NAS– Gentle on the nose. You get barley
sugars but with hints of orange marmalade and peat. The peat is not blatant,
but gentle, suggesting that the malting was done with Aberdeen peat. After some
time you get green capsicum, wet chalk and vanilla. On the palate, it is much
rounder and peat reappears with sweet and honey flavours. Medium finish.
Paul John, Classic, c.s 55.2%, NAS – On the nose you get those complexities immediately. Lots of sugars and tannins mistaking it to be a sherried whisky. Some lactones with a feel like asafoetida followed by a mix of citrus notes. On the palate it is dry and you get some tannins with a wholesome feeling of a full bodied whisky. Very sweet. Finishes long with a mix of spices.
Paul John, Bold, 46%, NAS – On the nose you get some smoke with definite peat notes. Vanilla and lemon, spices with green peppers. On the palate it is very sweet. Finishes with long peaty notes.
Paul John, Peated, c.s 55.5%, NAS – Bonfire smoke and peat. Sweet and honeyed and mild medicinal notes like any Islay whisky. Lots of complexities, green grass juices, vanilla and citrus notes. On the palate you get those dry tannins but the mouthfeel is very full and wholesome. Sweet and syrupy. Finishes very long with a satisfying feeling.
Tasting Notes by Krishna Nukala
THE REAL McKOY
CUTTY SARK: THE REAL McCOY
The Cutty Sark is the world’s last remaining clipper ship. It was built on the Clyde, in Glasgow, in 1869 for the China tea trade, and was one of the fastest clippers ever built.
I’ve been on it; it is narrow and, except for the top deck and the Captain’s cabin, there is no headroom. The average height of ceilings reduce progressively as you descend four decks, from 5 feet to 3’9”.
Edrington PLC, a company whose head office was located ten miles from where the famous ship was built, used the name for a whisky it launched on March 23, 1923. Cutty Sark was the first light coloured, blended whisky. Launched at the height of the “cocktail culture”, it was designed to be mixed and was aimed squarely at the American market. It started as a 3 Year Old whisky during Prohibition in the US (1920-33); immediately after Prohibition was repealed in 1933, the 5 YO hit the market. Current blends are 8 YO.
During Prohibition, Cutty Sark gave rise to the term “the real McCoy.” The whisky was bootlegged by the legendary Bill McCoy, an American smuggler based in the Bahamas. McCoy, a nondrinker, guaranteed his contraband was uncut and unadulterated. The quality of his whisky gave rise to the expression, “the real McCoy”, an expression that remains a synonym for integrity and authenticity. During Prohibition, “ordering a real McCoy” became slang for ordering a Cutty Sark.
Following the repeal of Prohibition in 1933, the impeccable reputation of the whisky led to a surge in sales and Cutty Sark became one of the best-selling Scotch whisky brands in the United States. It remains one of that country’s most popular blends. Bill McCoy died a multi-millionaire in 1948.
In 2013, Edrington released Cutty Sark, Prohibition Edition, a 50% ABV blended Scotch, to commemorate Bill McCoy and the 90th anniversary of the repeal of Prohibition. A 12 Years Old version is also on the market, priced higher than JW Black Label.
SOMETHING SPECIAL LEAVES INDIA FOR LATIN AMERICA
THE NEW DECANTER
I first tasted SOMETHING SPECIAL in 1977 in Poona. It was an exquisite experience and I decided to carry out detailed research on this Blended Scotch. I found that it was an illegal and raw blend first bottled in 1793 from what was to become Bon Accord Distillery in 1860. The SOMETHING SPECIAL website claims that Hill & Thomson Wines and Liquor in Edinburgh started the production and sale of an excellent blended Scotch whisky in 1793 and that it was granted a Royal Warrant by King William IV in 1838. This is a hoax, as William IV died in 1837. The whisky and distillery are not named. Moreover, blending of malt and grain whisky was permitted only in 1860 for distillers; other traders, like grocers, were permitted such blending in 1863. The term Scotch came from 'Scottish' and was first used in the mid-18th century (1855, Gavin Smith).
It came out as a 12 YO Premium Whisky thereafter, not an 8 YO. Bon Accord distillery, renamed to North of Scotland distillery, was taken over by the Longmorn Distillery Company in 1893, and the whisky was bottled soon thereafter as a Grant's Distilleries' product (1897). The website also claims that it was granted a Royal Warrant by Queen Victoria, who died in 1901. This is most probably another hoax, as no distillery was given the prefix ‘Royal’ in that period. In 1877 Hill, Thompson & Co. offered the role of export salesman to William Shaw. In 1902 he established the Queen Anne blend, which soon became the company’s flagship whisky.
Grant's Distillery was destroyed by a fire in 1910, but was repaired and running in 1911. A new blended whisky, named SOMETHING SPECIAL, came out with great fanfare in 1912, quietly burying its dubious past. The website states that the business was still owned by Hill & Thomson and advertised as “A Scotch for a Special Occasion.” It quickly became popular in the United Kingdom and around the world.
The iconic decanter was first produced in the distinctive diamond shape in 1959 and heralded around the world as a statement of quality and originality.
In 1972, the Glenlivet and Glen Grant Distilleries Ltd amalgamated with the blending concerns of Hill, Thomson and Co.Ltd and Longmorn Distilleries Ltd to become The Glenlivet Distillers Ltd. SOMETHING SPECIAL was then bottled by Hill, Thomson and Co.Ltd, Paisley, Scotland as an 8 YO at very good prices [$12 for an 75 proof 43% ABV 750 ml decanter(86 proof in the USA)]. The Glenlivet Distillers Ltd. was then purchased by Canadian drinks and media company Seagram in 1977. The website claims SOMETHING SPECIAL™ whisky was launched in new markets across Latin America and Asia in 1985, where discerning connoisseurs were demanding high quality Scotch whisky. This is a part lie, as SOMETHING SPECIAL™ was freely available across India, even in its Military Canteens in the 70s. I bought my first bottle in 1982 in Bhuj, a back-of-beyond city in North Gujarat.
Seagram's was owned by a Canadian Jew, Samuel Bronfman, and his company was barred from the Islamic middle-east gateway to the liquor demanding market of South-central Asia. He was unable to get his personal baby, Chivas Regal, going in a huge and lucrative market. He then routed his supplies via Singapore. But Something Special, strikingly similar to Chivas Regal 12 YO, didn't cede its market share to Chivas Regal. Phipson's Black Dog and Johnnie Walker Red and Black labels were making rapid inroads into this market. This is why Something Special was withdrawn from the Indian and Asian market, to make way for Chivas Regal. Once sale in India and most of Asia was stopped, its primary market became Latin America and Italy. A bottle or two is often found in odd locations. Seagram's was taken over by Pernod Ricard in 2000 and a fresh market analysis led to the release of their 15 YO in 2006, focussed on in Latin America with a few bottles trickling over to Asia as rarities. All barriers to trade via the Middle East were lifted.
The archives paint a very different story. In 1709 Andrew Thomson inherited the business of his father–in–law,
Mr Brown, who was a brewer and vintner in the Grassmarket in Edinburgh.
About 20 years later the business was moved to "The Vaults" in
neighbouring Leith, which were bought by the company on 29 July 1782.
The firm of J G Thomson & Co was founded by James Gibson Thomas in
1785 at the Vaults to supply goods like whisky, brandy and wines. James
Gibson Thomson junior, the son of the company’s founder, was associated
with the company from 1820 to 1876.
In its early years the major part of the business was in the
import and distribution of wines from the continent. Later it traded in
wines and spirits of all descriptions, imported or home produced. The
company’s wholesale business was carried out under the name of J G
Thomson & Co and the private trade was carried out under the name of
Thomson Lauder & Co.
In 1884 the firm acquired Glen Garioch Distillery in Old Meldrum,
Aberdeenshire and owned it until 1908. In 1890 it took over the Leith
firm, Scott & Allan, and its two clippers, which brought cargoes of
wines and brandies into Leith. Scott & Allan were also cork
cutters. In 1905, J G Thomson & Co became a limited liability
company.
The company went into voluntary liquidation in 1921 and the buildings
and stocks were taken over by J M Hogge on behalf of the new company,
which was a private company without a stock exchange quotation. By the
1930s, J G Thomson & Co was supplying wines to most of the top hotels
in Scotland and had become one of the country’s leading independent
whisky blenders, with a prosperous overseas trade. By 1959 it owned
three bonded warehouses and large duty paid warehouses. The company
acted as agent, stockist and distributor in Scotland for many famous and
internationally known brands of wines and spirits. It also functioned
as a very large exporter of whisky to all parts of the world, especially
to the USA, and was involved in the blending of whisky. The company
maintained a large transport fleet with depots in Leith and Glasgow, and
it maintained its own cooperage.
After the Second World War many private hotels amalgamated into larger chains or were acquired by breweries. This effectively removed J G Thomson’s principal outlets. In 1960 it was bought by Charrington United Breweries Ltd of London. Three years later Charrington acquired the Glasgow firm J & R Tennent Ltd and in 1966 J G Thomson became a subsidiary of Tennent Caledonian Breweries Ltd.
SOMETHING SPECIAL RETURNS TO INDIA IN 2020 BUT AS A NAS
EXPRESSION
SOMETHING SPECIAL is still a premium Blended Scotch whisky, the no. 1 Scotch whisky in the Dominican Republic, the no 2. in Colombia and overall no. 3 premium Scotch whisky brand in South America. It’s considered an outgoing and sociable whisky that celebrates life, an optimistic attitude and everyday success. As may be seen in the photos at the top, it is an NAS expression today and the decanter, while retaining its diamond cut, has been slimmed down a mite. The decanter of its newest release, the SOMETHING SPECIAL LEGACY, is unique and quite a collector's item.
Surprisingly, SOMETHING SPECIAL made its debut in Latin America in 2004 as a 12 YO Blended Scotch whisky. The award-winning 12 YO blend contains fine Speyside malt whiskies and is sculptured around the
outstanding Longmorn single malts, embellished
by classy single malts from the Glenlivet, Glen Grant, Laphroaig and Allt A
Bhainne distilleries, among others, which are melded together in Strathclyde Single Grain whisky to give it its
unmistakably smoky sweetness. The hint of peaty character is imbued from a
single malt produced at the Allt À Bhainne distillery in Keith, Speyside. The
Islay contribution is made by an unpeated whisky from, surprisingly, Laphroaig,
a distillery well-known for its unmistakable pungent, medicinal and smoky spirit. This
expression is said to age in Bourbon and Sherry casks but the Sherry influence
in this blend seems minimal. With Longmorn stock running low, SOMETHING SPECIAL turned both slim and NAS in 2010. It is now carried by Allt A Bhaine, Glen Grant, Strathisla, Aberlour and The Glenlivet.
It is deep gold in colour with E150A caramel additive, chill filtered and blended in Scotland. It is bottled in both Scotland and India. The Scottish version is at 40% ABV in a 70cl bottle; it is at 43% ABV in a 75cl bottle in India.
Nose: When you pour this blend in your glass you immediately get peat and light smoke that remind you of a light Islay whisky. However, on inhalation, the peat and smoke prove evanescent and are driven back quickly to the back of the glass and grain, wood, sundry dried fruit and malt come into play. After a while in the glass, earth and wood tones begin to dominate. There isn’t much sharp alcohol, which is good but this blend would benefit from some more fruity tones.
Taste: Sweet (Sugar, Honey) and Spicy Oak. The sweetness becomes syrupy if swigged after a chillied momo.
Finish: Not overly long and quickly getting dry. Some Cocoa powder, nuts and wood.
If you add four or five drops of water, the peat on the nose withdraws to the background. Floral and mineral tones appear. The palate however just gets watered down. So you can nose this blend with and without a few drops of water but it is best sipped neat.