SOME CLASSICS OF THE YEAR GONE BY
It can be a challenging time for many folks who
struggle to first determine and then find the best whiskies available.
Thankfully, if you are a Scotch whisky enthusiast, you won’t have that problem.
The only thing you really have to determine is what you’re willing to spend on
that bottle. Once you answer that question, consult the list compiled below. It contains a broad cross-section of single malts ranging from reasonable in price to prohibitive. The
common thread connecting them is they’re all exceptional spirits that have been
released relatively recently. Happy hunting.
The Dalmore 14-Year-Old Highland Single Malt Scotch —
$90
.jpg)
The Dalmore 14’s signature feature is its sole use of “rare Pedro Ximénez casks from the House of Gonzalez Byass,” rather than other sherry styles such as oloroso that are more commonly used by Dalmore. The company is positioning it as their first Principal Collection bottle to exclusively be matured in PX sherry, which will presumably make those concentrated fruity flavours its biggest calling card. As a bonus, it also has a slightly higher strength than the core Dalmore 12 or Dalmore 15 expressions, which both weigh in at a mere 40% ABV. This one is 43.8% ABV, a nice incremental upgrade, though a bit under the 44% ABV of Dalmore Cigar Malt Reserve or the 46.5% ABV of Dalmore Port Wood Reserve. Regardless, it’s likely an admission that the global market really prefers an elevated proof point. The sun-drenched, intense sweetness of the PX sherry wine adds delicious new layers of flavour and perfectly
complements The Dalmore’s house style and rich notes of citrus, liquorice and
caramel. With notes of figs, Medjool dates and maple syrup, The Dalmore 14 Year
is ideal to cherish and enjoy with others.
Nose: On the nose, this one doesn’t immediately strike me as one of the more assertive Dalmore expressions I’ve encountered, but I suspect this is also a result of having tasted so many barrel-proof expressions lately. What this one really needs is a few minutes to open up in the glass, which reveals increasingly strong waves of caramel, syrupy dark fruit compote—blackberry and currant—and raisin. It’s slightly toasty in character, with a suggestion of honeycomb and a little cocoa. After a few minutes, the sherry really opens up in a big way, with increasingly punchy and vinous fruit notes and roasted nuts. Sweet, fruity and inviting.
Palate: On the palate, this is again decidedly on the sweet and fruity side, with bright red and black fruit and a little orange citrus, but it’s balanced out by equally assertive roastiness and sharp coffee, along with mocha. There’s a licorice-like spice as well, while the fruitiness suggests confections the first time around, baked pie or cobbler. Over time, this also grows more overtly sherry-like, with more dried fruit and oxidized wine notes. The coffee, meanwhile, gives it just a bit of roast astringency, which helps balance the considerable sweetness. All in all, it drinks quite easily, with muted ethanol but a slightly thin mouthfeel. As is often the case with The Dalmore, the balance of flavours is superb, but the question of what this might be like at an even more elevated strength closer to 50% ABV never escapes the mind. That might really be a showstopper.
Finish: The finish sees rich dark fruits return, licorice, marmalade and depths of cocoa.
Overall: All in all, though, this is an excellent expression, one that has a tendency to grow in the glass—my enjoyment rose appreciably from first taste to last. I’m still not sure that it necessarily stands out from the rest of the Dalmore Principal Collection in a way that makes it an indispensable new addition, and the $90 MSRP isn’t exactly cheap, but at the same time, the rampant price-gouging in the world of American whiskey makes it feel quite a lot more palatable than perhaps it once would have. Fans looking to enjoy the rich, decadent interplay of fruit and roast will find much to like here.
Tomatin Portuguese Collection — $102
Tomatin is a Highland single malt Scotch whisky distillery known for its intense, high-toned and fruity spirit, with its oldest expressions moving into tropical fruits. It is Tomatin’s much-improved wood policy which has brought it to the notice of single malt lovers. A higher percentage of first-fill casks – ex-Bourbon and ex-Sherry – has given more flesh and structure to the always top-notch spirit.
A trio of malt distillate was laid down in the Highland
distillery on September 8th, 2006. After 8 years, the stock was split into one
of 3 types of secondary barrels and left to age for 7 more years. The Port
Edition is a stone fruit stunner. The Moscatel Edition is more concerned with
ginger and citrus, while the Madeira Edition is all about that butter. Each one
stands alone as a solid bargain for 15 YO spirit from a perennially overlooked
producer. If you’re feeling particularly greedy, however, buy the entire and
see how impactful cask selection is on flavour.
Although the first manifestation of Tomatin only ran between 1897 and 1906, its reopening under new management in 1909 saw the start of a remarkable journey which would culminate in this remote Highland outpost in between Aviemore and Inverness becoming the largest malt whisky distillery in Scotland.
Its expansion (and contraction) mirrors accurately the mood of the industry: from two stills to four in 1956, four to six in ‘58, up to 11 in ’61 and then in 1974 the most dramatic expansion of all, with 12 stills being installed, bringing the total to 23 and overall capacity to 10m litres per annum. It couldn’t last. Even in 1974, the first indications of a downturn in Scotch’s fortunes were being noticed. Tomatin never ran at full capacity and in 1986 went into liquidation.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
The Royal Brackla 18 YO Palo Cortado Finish — $300
The Royal Brackla distillery is located northeast of Inverness, Scotland, the largest city in the Scottish Highlands. The distillery was founded in 1812 and in 1833, was awarded a Royal Warrant by King William IV, becoming the first Scotch to be honoured as such (thus the right to use the “Royal” in its name). Royal Brackla changed ownership several times over the last century and was even closed for a period in the mid-1980s before it was “resurrected” in 1990. Bacardi Limited, the world’s largest privately held spirits company, owns Dewar’s Aberfeldy brand which, in turn, counts Royal Brackla as one of its labels. The distillery set-up is all about creating and then capturing esters – the fermentation is long, the lyne arms of the stills are angled upwards, the copper conversation a long one and the reflux plentiful. As well as having this fresh, perfumed fruitiness Brackla also possesses a clean acidity, and it is this which allows it to cut through the powerful flavours given during ageing in various types of ex-Sherry casks, the maturation style chosen by Dewar’s for its single malt releases.
Palo Cortado is a rare type of Sherry that starts out as ageing under the flor, with an eye on becoming either a Fino or Amontillado. To become a Palo Cortado, that cap of flor must fall apart, exposing the wine to the air inside the cask and promoting oxidation. The result is a Sherry that sits between Oloroso and Amontillado. The fact that a cask of Palo Cortado usually results from a twist of fate rather than design marks it out as an exotic beast indeed
This 18-year-old expression is the middle release in a new range of single malts from the distillery – the other two bookend at 12 and 21-year-old expressions. The whisky has no added caramel colouring, nor does it undergo any chill filtration. As with the other regular Royal Brackla malts, the 18-year-old is bottled at a strong 46% ABV. This single malt is pleasant but far too expensive at $299.
Appearance: A light, yellow gold.
Nose: Subtle and mellow at first blush, with green apple, and a pleasant airy oakiness. The sherry’s influence is there, but it took a few good sniffs to lock it down.
Palate: Some peaches and vanilla cream again, with tart lemon juice and golden raisins; ginger and grapefruit peel with a subtle oily note in the background. A mildly nutty side again. Herbal teas, bitter almonds and walnuts. A perfectly likeable combination of honey, fruit, and Sherry.
Finish: An enjoyable medium-long finish, with the spice and vanilla staying strong while introducing a balanced complexity one doesn’t experience up front. Marketed beyond its class and definitely overpriced.
 |
 |
 |
The Royal Brackla is known as the 'The King's Own
Whisky'. These sherried malts are hardly a novelty
to Scotch enthusiasts. In fact, more often than not, the most sought-after
single malts are ones that have matured in ex-sherry casks. But the sort
of sherry used to season those casks is typically PX, Oloroso, or even
Amontillado or Fino. Royal Brackla’s 18-year-old offering, finished in far
rarer casks has delivered complex and compelling results. It’s kind of
like cream soda in dram form, with a slightly warming citrus and clove finish.
A unique sipping experience for the Spanish fortified wine fan in your secret
epicurean life.
Bruichladdich Octomore Edition 13.3 —$330
For the peathead in you, your bottle of Octomore will always be unwrapped with considerable glee. This one is cause for celebration, boasting barley malted to 129.3 PPM. If that PPM means something to you, don’t worry, it is way below the double and triple hundred PPM whiskies bottled in earlier years. Moreover, the PPM value is that of the malt before the transformation into spirit has started. It was distilled from barley grown on Islay, on a single farm within stone’s reach of the distillery where it was eventually crafted. It took shape in barrels of American whiskey followed by secondary maturation in European oak casks from both France and Spain. In other words: it’s a beast...But a worldly, sophisticated sort of beast.
Distilled in 2016 from the 2015 harvest of 100% Octomore Farm-grown Concerto barley, then matured for 5 years in a combination of first-fill bourbon and second-fill European oak barrels that previously held Rivesaltes and Ribera del Duero wines — a slight shift on the usual formula, which is typically bourbon only. Rather hot and well-rounded, with less overt smoke and ash and a strong fruit character on the nose, showcasing lemon and orange peel. Fruit moves into nutty nougat on the palate, informed by a moderated seaside bonfire character — smoke and salt and seaweed all in a swirl. This whisky is an exercise in not just peat, but the effects of barrel maturation, barley provenance and terroir on the flavour of a whisky. And it’s also proof that a single malt scotch doesn’t have to be aged for at least a decade to obtain a complexity of flavour. The overall composition is more iconic Octomore than most, if one can say that. This 13.2 is unique and those looking for something right in line with tradition will find this on point. 61.1% ABV!
Tasting Notes:
Nose: Aromas of malt sugar and gentle peat smoke lead you into the dram. Layers of fresh green fruit come next followed by rose, geranium, apricot, and eucalyptus. Marzipan, ginger nut biscuits, and honeyed melon can also come through, with the malty fruity character coming to the fore with a little time. Adding a drop of water will bring out the peat smoke beautifully.
Palate: A soft and delicate on the palate, sweet honey and brown sugar give way to a whisper of peat smoke. The second sip brings lemon rind and seashells, a delicate marine hint along with malty biscuit notes and marzipan and coconut. The peat smoke has hints of boot polish and ash but is gentle enough to allow the subtle floral malty notes to shine.
Finish: The marine character develops and the smoke increases on the palate, honey and lemon with warm sand and marzipan. Final fruity traces of peach and stewed pears bring a little sweetness to the finish.
Overall: An Islay whisky through and through, the provenance of this Octomore expression is unrivalled. The complex flavour of the soil that raised the barley and the classic peat smoke define this whisky's character, speaking of the place it is from.
Octomore single malt has defied received whisky wisdom since its launch in 2008. Matured for five years, always super-heavily peated and bottled close to cask strength, Octomore’s surprising elegance has led the powers that be at Bruichladdich to define it as “The Impossible Equation”.
There are many attributes they share with their distant
Gaelic forefathers: stubborn, resolute, self-sufficient, hard-working,
enduring, straight-talking, passionate and philosophical, albeit with a certain
roguish quality.
 |
 |
They are proudly nonconformist, as has always been the
way in these Western Isles. Oirthir Gaidheal, the Coast of the Gaels, the 'land
of the outsider'. They passionately believe in terroir - in authenticity, place
and provenance, and ultimate traceability.
They seek to produce the most natural, thought-provoking
and enjoyable spirits possible. Obsessive? Probably. But if all you want is
generic spirit, the world is awash with the stuff. Indulge yourself there. At Bruichladdich,
they are Progressive Hebridean Distillers. This isn't just a form of words. It
is a statement of identity and philosophy. They respect the past but don't live
in its shadow. They believe in innovation and progress while striving to
create intriguing spirits - spirits with remarkable integrity and provenance, in
moving forward, asking questions and challenging convention and continuing to
rebel against the traditional world of Scotch whisky. They're not afraid to
push the boundaries and go against the status quo.
When it comes to distilling, they see this not as an
industrial practice but rather an ancient art - an art that has intrigued the
human spirit for centuries. A mysterious and enigmatic alchemy that explores
the very depths of the distiller’s soul. They make our whisky the same way as their
predecessors - by hand, taste, nose and eye.
It is this manual control of the entire process and the
ultimate knowledge of every pipe, valve and detail that gives them the authority
to not only distil three different styles of single malt, but also the first
Islay dry gin. It is in their commitment to protecting core values of
authenticity, provenance and transparency that they have earned the right to
call themselves Progressive Hebridean Distillers.
Since Bruichladdich’s resurrection in 2001, their
ambitions have gone beyond the simple idea of making and selling single malt
scotch whisky. The goal was to be an antidote to the industry norm. They set
course to be pioneers, provocateurs and change makers. Reconnecting the land
and the dram, re-evaluating the prescribed ‘rules’ of the industry, questioning
where the flavour comes from and understanding why agricultural ecosystems are
important. This was a journey that would go on to inspire an army of distillers
and drinkers across the world.
On this path, it is discovered that the more you learn,
the more you know what you need to do. Today, their commitments to people and
the planet grow stronger, ensuring the use of their business as a force for good.
With an empowered team, they pursue this bigger purpose and maintain the
mission to create the most thought-provoking spirits. As Progressive Hebridean
Distillers, it is hoped their actions will stimulate other entrepreneurial
start-ups to emerge on this island home and further afield, each one adding
richness and diversity, paving the way for an increasingly dynamic and
self-sufficient future.
.1: 100 % Scottish barley, matured in American oak,
mainly 1st fill
.2: 100 % Scottish barley, matured in American oak +
finished in European oak (ex-Bordeaux, ex-Sauternes, ex-Amarone, etc.)
.3: 100 % Islay barley, matured in either only
American oak or a combination of American and European oak
.4: 100 % Scottish barley, matured in American oak,
often virgin American oak
10 YO: 100 % Scottish barley, matured typically in a
mix of American and European oak. Has now replaced the .4
There have been 46 Official releases and two Independent
releases to date. Initially only five years old, there have now been several
releases of 6/7/8/10/12 YOs and one 13 YO.
The Octomore Masterclass_08.3 Islay Barley, 5 YO, 61.2
% ABV of Sep 2017 is their peatiest expression till today. The
"normal" peat level for Octomore in the last few years has been 167
ppm, with three going past the 200 mark. This time around they have turned it all the way up to 309 ppm! The
edition sold out in no time. The highlights were:
- The most heavily-peated Octomore to date - at 309 ppm!
- One farm, one field, one vintage
- Distilled in 2011 from the 2010 harvest
- 56% full-term ex-Bourbon, 44% full-term European oak maturation
- 18 000 bottles
The European oak casks previously held Paulliac,
Ventoux, Rhone and Burgundy wines.
Tasting Notes:
Nose: There is a wall of peat here. A wall with a door with
a sign with a message reading "Here be phenols! Approach with
caution!". A lot spicier than the 8.1. , even 'hostile' conditions.
Taste: Raw ..! Of course there's peat and a certain
level of smokiness on the palate as well. Numbs the tongue, so it is a good
thing this is a blog. A swimming pool filled with habanero sauce, a huge bean
bag full of Szechuan peppers, a ten-storey chimney filled with ashes, and a
burnt-down fruit orchard.
Finish: Medium-long finish. Again, as with the 8.1, it
turns so delightful, fruity, sweet and soft once the initial shock has abated.
Fun how the Szechuan pepper stays all the way to the end. Hot, hot embers of
pepper and orchard fruits. There is hardly any bitterness here though. A touch
of bitter-ish oak, and there you have it. Sorted!
The Bowmore Arc-52 — $75,000
Don’t say I didn’t warn you. Whether you read that as a
promise or a threat might serve as an indicator of how you feel about a
52-year-old single malt that costs more than most luxury cars. This striking
creation celebrates the very definition of balance; a point in time where past
meets present; where function meets style and where character is intensified.
Bringing together the deeply intriguing spirit of Bowmore and the
ground-breaking visionary style of Aston Martin, true synergy is created to
realise spectacular innovations with the capacity to redefine perspectives and
perceptions. A truly futuristic take on a whisky vessel design, seen through
the lens of some of the world’s foremost and ground-breaking car visionaries.
The design merges natural and man-made contours and shapes in a striking
creation which effectively balances on two points, making it seem almost
weightless.
Of course, it's hard to fault Bowmore for rolling out the metaphorical red carpet for the ARC-52, the brand's latest partnership with Aston Martin. It's not every day a legendary distillery rolls out a 52-year-old whiskey, and it's not every day a distillery teams up with an automotive icon to create a bottle worthy of installation in an art museum itself.
What exactly does ultra-luxury whisky have to do with an ultra-luxury vehicle? Well, for starters, the stunning contours of the crystal decanter actually evoke the streamlined edges of a Vantage sports car. Also, you literally need a fob to open the metallic topper guarding this sacred liquid. In short, it’s unlike anything you’ve ever seen in the world of whisky. And it holds within the vibrant tropical notes typical to ‘60s-era Bowmore. It was matured for 52 years in two parts: American oak hogshead and European sherry butts, combined to make 100 bottles. 50 were released last year and 50 more this year, 2023.
Bowmore has drawn inspiration from its stunning surroundings. Islay is home to some of the oldest strata in the world. These rocks have been shaped by the wild elements of Islay over a long period of time, transformed by seasons and enriched by the wild elements. These formations surround Bowmore distillery and they are linked to the origins of their name itself.
Bowmore is the first licensed Islay distillery and calls itself the original Islay. The pioneer that has stood on the shores of Lochindaal, a sea loch opening out into the wild Atlantic Ocean, since 1779. To this day, the distillery still operates in traditional ways, honouring the original whisky-making techniques. Bowmore is still handcrafted today. Time is invested at every stage. And this care and attention to detail create the unique and timeless house style of Bowmore. Unparalleled single malts that remain unimitated and age like no other on Islay.
A truly futuristic take on a whisky vessel design, seen through the lens of some of the world’s foremost and ground-breaking car visionaries. The design merges natural and man-made contours and shapes in a striking creation which effectively balances on two points, making it seem almost weightless.
The ARC-52 is absolutely one of the best Scotch whiskies to taste. It's amazingly well-balanced and light for a spirit that's been maturing in a sherry butt and American oak ex-Bourbon hogshead casks for more than half a century. On the nose, it's dominated, unexpectedly, by flavours of fruit — light, tropical notes that bring to mind sea breezes and swaying palm trees. Those fruit flavours dominate the palate and finish, as well; they're never overpowering, never cloying or sickly, but simply fresh — it has a freshness you wouldn't expect from a 50-year-old whisky.
Tasting Notes
Colour: Deep burnished gold.
Nose: Creamy and fruity with notes of vanilla and custard cream but also well-defined peach, pear, kumquat, mandarin, a hint of guava with herbal notes of fresh mint and eucalyptus.
Taste: Sweet, very fruity and a touch citric with the flavour of green grapes and peach melba, clementine, lime zest but also nutty notes of almond and hazelnuts, tobacco leaves with a lightly peaty ashy and buttery character.
Finish: Herbal with exotic fresh fruits, praline and butterscotch notes.
The decanter is divided into two parts: the glass vessel that holds the liquid, and the metal cap that covers up the mouth. That part is magnetically clasped to the top of the bottle, so it won't tumble off or rattle around. In order to unlock it, Bowmore provides you with a magnet inside a metal lozenge that looks almost exactly like the ones used to lock and unlock cars; hold it against the bottle in the right place, and boop, the magnet releases and the metal sheath slides off the mouth of the bottle.
The Glendronach: Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Big, bold and most commonly Sherried, Glendronach is an old-style whisky which echoes the substantial Victorian buildings in which it is made.
Inside the distillery are a traditional rake and plough mash
tun, wooden washbacks and four stills which were coal-fired until 2005, the
last in Scotland to be heated in this way. Today there is just a quiet
susurration of steam in the stillhouse, but the oddly shaped wash still and the
plain sides of the spirit still cut back on reflux, helping to build weight in
the spirit.
 |
| THE ORIGINAL |
These days, ex-Sherry casks are the distillery’s signature style. Some are 100% Sherry matured, and some started in ex-Bourbon casks to pick up vanilla sweetness before being racked into ex-Sherry.
One of a trio of distilleries in the Garioch, Glendronach was founded in 1826 by a partnership of local farmers headed by James Allardice. After a period of ups and downs, Its next most significant owner arrived in 1920, when Capt Charles Grant, the youngest son of William Grant of Glenfiddich, bought it. 40 years later, Wm Teacher & Sons bought it and then added a second pair of stills in 1967. Placed in mothballs between 1996 and 2002, it ended up with Pernod Ricard which sold it in 2008 to The BenRiach Distilling Co., purchased by Jack Daniel’s Tennessee whiskey producer Brown-Forman in 2016, when it fell silent for five years, supposedly for lack of maturing stocks before coming back into a welcoming market as The Glendronach Revival 15 YO. Some Glendronach 15 YO bottles were available in and through 2017, created with older malts, yet sold as a non-chill-filtered 15 YO at 46% ABV.
Tasting Notes
Colour: Vivid coppery orange
Nose: Big sherry aromas, along with cocoa powder, malt, and
slightly savoury honey. Water brings out a bit of sharpness to the nose as well
as damson jam and raisins.
Palate: The mouthfeel starts off dry and acrid, but it’s a
mixture of oak types creating this sensation. Black peppercorn heightens the
palate before moving forward to make way for bold roast espresso beans. Sweet,
jammy fruit turns drier the longer it’s held on the tongue, allowing rich,
nutty PX sherry notes to come to the fore. Spice, citrus, and leather lurk deep
in the background. With water, more nuttiness and some additional baking spice.
Finish: Sweet malt, oak, almonds, and a bit of dried fruit,
all of which linger, and linger, and linger some more. Ends with cocoa nibs
lingering on the tongue. Water adds some lemongrass, anise, and a touch of
baked apples. A very long and pleasant finish.
.jpg) |
| THE REVIVAL |
GlenDronach’s 15-year-old expression returned in 2020 with a new twist: Whereas it previously had been aged entirely in Oloroso Sherry casks, it’s now aged in a mix of Oloroso and Pedro Ximenez Sherry casks, with the PX casks imparting a bigger and sweeter fruitiness to the whisky. For newbies and lovers of sherried malts alike, this is one of the best whiskies around for under $100.
It also shows what a difference three extra years of cask ageing can make. GlenDronach’s 12-year-old expression is also aged in the same types of cask, but Revival has a bigger, deeper, and richer flavour in comparison. The Revival is consistent, deliciously so. A few drops of water won’t totally destroy this whisky; some may find it enhancing the profile, but, all in all, they’re not needed, either. The flavour is full, but not overly spicy or hot. There’s no need to dull it down.
As far as sherried malts are concerned, more expensive and prestigious whiskies of similar age, like Macallan’s, cost more, and, frankly, are not quite as good; $90-plus isn’t the world’s greatest bargain, but in comparison, it’s not bad at all.
 |
.jpg) |
No comments:
Post a Comment