MORE SMOKY AND PEATED WHISKIES INTO 2021

 MUST HAVE BRANDS OF PEATED & SMOKY SCOTCH WHISKIES

Peat is divisive. Some describe its presence in whisky as acrid, medicinal, like a tar-and-iodine smoothie. Others can’t get enough of it. So to peat or not to peat is at least a question, if not the question, when deciding what whisky to drink.

Peat is most commonly found in the Scottish single malt scotch category, although you can detect it in whisky from Japan, Ireland, India and even in some American states. Remember, all scotch is not smoky—in fact, peated whiskey represents a relatively small amount of the whisky made in Scotland. And while there are some drinkers who like to go peat or go home, in the same way hops fanatics do in the beer world, peat can actually be a subtle flavour component that doesn’t have to dominate the palate.

How does peat work? It’s pretty simple. Peat is an accumulation of decayed organic matter dug up from the ground that can be burned to dry out malted barley, infusing the grain with smoke and flavour that carries through the distillation process. How peaty the whisky is depends on how long it’s been exposed to the smoke, measured in PPM (phenol parts per million); the higher the PPM, the smokier the whiskey. And the character of peat is said to depend upon the area it comes from. Peat from Islay would bring different tasting notes to the party than peat from Kashmir, for example.

There is a wide range of smoky whisky to enjoy, from light and crisp to assertive and heavy to whisky that delivers a big, smoky punch. If you think you don’t like peated whisky, perhaps you just haven’t tried the right one yet. Here’s a list of some recent entries into the smoky, peated category to hunt down and savour.

Laphroaig Cairdeas Port & Wine

Laphroaig is one of the best-known distilleries on Islay, and each annual Cairdeas release uses a different barrel finish or maturation period that differentiates it from the core range. The 2020 bottle, Port & Wine, has proven to be a standout. Two reds are better than one. The liquid in this bottle is pretty much laid out in the name here. The Cairdeas continues a long history of innovation. A unique marriage of classic Laphroaig whisky rested in second-fill Ruby Port ‘barriques’ along with whisky double matured in ex-Bourbon barrels followed by ex-red wine casks. Soft, round and warming, it’s an incredible ‘friendship’ that charts continents, styles and flavours. Bottled at 52% ABV (according to Laphroaig, if Cairdeas is not cask strength, the last two digits of its ABV correspond to the year it’s released—2020, in this case). It’s full of deep dried fruit notes, along with a bit of salt and a touch of “warehouse must.”

Càirdeas means ‘friendship’ in Gaelic and, each year, a limited-edition bottling is crafted by distillery manager and fifth generation Islay native, John Campbell, available exclusively to Friends of Laphroaig. 

Aromas of dark chocolate and menthol with pink peppercorns open up to an extraordinarily complex flavour. Toasted peaches, charred marshmallows and a hint of plum jam intertwine with Laphroaig’s iodine rich peat smoke to create a limited edition that lingers long on the palate and the memory. Though there is no age statement on the bottle, it is touted as an 8 YO. The information on the specified age of 8 years comes from John Campbell. On the occasion of Laphroaig Open Day there was a live online tasting in the evening, during which John Campbell pointed out that this year's Càirdeas had five years in ex-bourbon casks and spent three years at Port & Wine Casks.

On Islay they say: We don't make friends easily but the ones we do are for life. Launched in 1994, Friends of Laphroaig are fans, friends and followers of our distillery from all over the world. They help Laphroaig explore new expressions, attend tastings and sometimes even visit the distillery at Laphroaig’s home on Islay. To reward the loyalty of its following, each year the distillery launches exclusive bottlings within the Càirdeas series.

Ardbeg Wee Beastie 5 YO 47.4%

Ardbeg is yet another truly excellent Islay distillery that focusses on heavily peated whisky. The newest release from this seaside outfit is also its youngest. Wee Beastie was matured for half the time that the distillery’s core 10-year-old expression spends in barrels, further proof that in whisky an older age statement doesn’t necessarily equal quality. This is a fresh and bright whisky aged in bourbon and Oloroso sherry casks, with notes of pepper, cherry, chocolate, and of course, a mouthful of smoke. This bottle is a bit cheaper than its peaty brothers, and seems to be positioned as a possible cocktail component for those looking to add some smoke to their drinks. Moreover, it is non chill-filtered.

It's a MONSTER of a dram: Ardbeg Wee Beastie is the latest permanent expression to join the Distillery’s Ultimate Range. Wee Beastie is a feisty young creature with a formidable taste. Young and intensely smoky, this is a dram untamed by age. This whisky’s creators set out to make the rawest, smokiest Ardbeg ever. The result is Ardbeg Wee Beastie and this tongue-tingling, beautifully smoky dram is the youngest Ardbeg  ever made.

On the nose, intense aromas of cracked blacked pepper mingle with sappy pine resin and a sharp tang of smoke. Suddenly, an explosive mouthfeel bursts forth with chocolate, creosote and tar. Savoury meats sink into the palate before the long salty mouthcoating finish slinks away… revealing the inner beast of this Islay icon.

Raasay While We Wait 46% ABV

The Isle of Raasay Distillery is a newcomer to the Scottish whisky scene, having opened its doors in 2014. The isle of Raasay, in the northwest of Scotland was once home to at least one illicit still though in all likelihood there would have been many more. The last known record of distillation dates from more than 150 years ago however and the island has been completely free of the national spirit ever since. That is, until the first legal distillery began producing spirit in September of 2017.

Alisdair Day co-founded R&B Distillers with business partner Bill Dobbie, after being encouraged to get involved with the whisky industry by an old ledger he inherited from his father. Day’s great-grandfather it seems, was once the proprietor of a licensed grocer in the town of Coldstream in the Scottish Borders. It was common in those days for such businesses to blend casks of Scotch whisky together so that they might offer a unique product to their customers and Alisdair’s relative kept extensive notes of his creations in his ‘cellar book’. When he inherited the book, Day set about recreating some of the recipes, a process that would lead to the first release of The Tweeddale blend.

The inaugural single malt release is not due out until this winter, but in the meantime the distillery has been releasing versions of its While We Wait whisky, offering a look at what’s to come. The fifth and final release came out this spring, a blend of peated and unpeated whisky aged in Tuscan red wine casks made from French oak that is bottled at 46 percent ABV, with natural colour and no chill filtering. The whisky was then finished in Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc wine casks from three vineyards in Montechiari. It’s a lovely whisky, light on the smoke but full of notes of figs, candied apricot, and vanilla.

Nc’nean Ainnir Organic Single Malt 46% ABV

The inspiration for the name, Neachneohain was an ancient Gaelic goddess. She was known as the Queen of Spirits and a fierce protector of nature. Strong and independent, she was never afraid to walk her own path. Nc’nean tries to follow her ethos in everything they do.

Sustainability runs in Nc’nean’s veins. They believe it is their responsibility to constantly improve their impact on this earth in terms of carbon footprint, pollution and biodiversity. They use organic Scottish barley in a distillery powered by renewable energy and recycle 99.97% of their waste. They plan to bottle their whisky in a 100% recycled clear glass bottle (a first in Scotch whisky). Non-chill filtered; natural colour: Nc’nean Ainnir whisky makes a big impression with the smallest footprint.

A philosophy, a way of looking at the world, a curiosity, a willingness to try. Out of this approach were their first two products born - their Botanical Spirit and their even more adventurous Aged Botanical. Simply asking ‘why’ or ‘what if’ was also the start of their yeast experiments at the distillery: the realisation that most distilleries in Scotland use the same yeast because it produces the highest yield of alcohol.

Smooth and elegant, Nc’nean Ainnir whisky is easy-going and delicious however you drink it. It is made from organic Scottish barley whose natural yields and rich soils contribute depth of flavour. Gentle fermentation and distillation accentuate the delicate, fruity flavours in the spirit. Matured in specially treated red wine and American whisky barrels to develop the spirit’s signature body and sweetness.

Produced in small batches, a dram of this non-chill filtered Nc’nean blend is replete with flavours of citrus, peach, apricot and spice that go down even better than the first impression they leave on your nose.

Seaweed & Aeons & Digging & Fire 10 YO 

From a single unnamed distillery and bottled at 40% ABV the whisky is aged for at least 10 years, a quarter of which has been finished in first fill sherry octaves. An octaves is a very small cask which allows for fast maturation because of the increased ratio of wood to liquid. Where a normal ex-bourbon barrel will hold around 160 litres an octave will take just 50 litres.

This right here is a 10 year old single malt from an undisclosed distillery on Islay, with 25% of it having been finished in first-fill Oloroso sherry octaves, and bestowed the decidedly descriptive name Seaweed & Aeons & Digging & Fire. If those four words (and three ampersands) aren't quite enough of an explanation of what this expression is all about, here are a few more: stripped-back, smoky, complex, a bit sherried, balanced, coastal.

Appearance – Summer honey gold, there are legs, but not particularly viscous

Nose – Bonfire bonfire BONFIRE! Then sherry sherry SHERRY! WOW!! Backing group of plasters (band aid), salty seaweed (funnily enough), biscuits/Ritz crackers and fertile earth.

Palate – Not particularly oily, but not thin either. First sip gives you a smoke and sherry slap, then a warm hug to say “sorry”.

Second sip is far less ‘in your face’. Mellow smoke and sherry, warming (but not burning), aniseed, licorice and a metallic ‘twang’ at the back of the throat just before the finish.

Finish – Smoke dominates the finish, as the sherry dissipates quite quickly. Not a long finish where the flavours are concerned, but the warmth and tingling continue for some time

You certainly know you’ve drunk it! I wouldn’t give it to anyone new to whisky, but it’s something different and unashamed to have in the cabinet! Would I buy a bottle? – Yes. For this price it’s a steal!

Compass Box ‘The Peat Monster’ 46% ABV

Back in 2000, John Glaser believed there were too many companies making and selling Scotch whisky the same way. An American, transplanted to the UK and working for a large distiller, he wanted to do things differently to bring the joys of Scotch whisky to more people. He set up a different kind of Scotch whisky company, based on the long-lost model of the Scotch whisky blending house, but with a forward-looking approach and an unrelenting desire to create quality. He originally launched the business from his kitchen, but today, nearly two decades later, Compass Box has an office and Blending Room in London, its own stocks of maturing whiskies in Scotland, and more than a dozen employees.

With more spectrum of flavour and style than any other spirit, he believes Scotch whisky is one of the world’s great drinks and ensures it continues to evolve and surprise today's discerning spirits enthusiasts.

Compass Box is a controversial company in the world of whisky inasmuch as they have pushed boundaries and broken a few rules over the years with their modern and experimental style of making and releasing blends like no other. THE PEAT MONSTER is their smoky offering, and it does exactly what it says on the label: delivers a big smack of unchillfiltered Islay peat on the nose, followed with bucketloads of length in the finish.

For 2019, The Peat Monster has a new label. Featuring this quite marvellous specially-commissioned painting, all batches released going forward will showcase the new artwork. It isn’t just the packaging that is different, however: the recipe has evolved, too.

Still very much the whisky for those who love big, rich, natural colour smoky-peaty malts, the latest version of THE PEAT MONSTER is older and more elegant than before. Inspired by feedback from smoky whisky lovers, the new Painting Label of THE PEAT MONSTER incorporates single malts with a more aromatic and graceful style of smokiness. They have sought to retain the peaty intensity for which THE PEAT MONSTER has long been celebrated, whilst creating a depth and elegance not seen before.

New batches of THE PEAT MONSTER boast a spectrum of powerful coastal flavours, combining the smokiness of a driftwood fire with more medicinal peat notes. Orchard fruits and rich cask-derived creaminess balance the multi-layered smoke. It is a new peaty landscape, as the Painting Label shows. The evolution is subtle. 

Amrut Peated Single Malt Whisky 46% ABV

The new 46% Amruts are a very different proposition to the pleasant but unexciting original release. At the higher strength this 24ppm peated effort fairly fizzes along the tastebuds. This is excellent - hugely improved stuff from a distillery coming along in leaps and bounds.

The finish is sweet, heavy peated flavours emerging and fading like a show-stopping number before ending with a custard-sweetness at the back of the palate…and some banana. Surprisingly, the sweetness lingers on. Interestingly, the peat was not overpowered by the competitive smokiness, nor did it overpower any of the other interesting complexities.

This particular expression is one of their best. As there is no peated barley in India, Amrut sources it from Scotland, having it peated there to their exact specifications before being shipped to the distillery in India. The peat dissipates somewhat during the journey. The peated barley is mashed, distilled, aged, and bottled at Amrut, and after spending around 6 years in used bourbon barrels, this peated single malt is diluted to 80.5°proof (92° in the US) for bottling.

On the nose, this peated single malt was rife with citrus and peat—a sweeter sort than one might expect—as well as salt pork (how did that get there?!) and low notes of caramel. Breaking it with ½ teaspoon of water brought the unusual savoury notes to the forefront, followed by a grassiness, which, combined with the savoury, was almost like chives.

Though it was a hefty 46% ABV, the mouthfeel was under the tongue, mostly. The Amrut Fusion blends this (25%) and their single malt (75%).

The company is confident that its single malt segment to be a big revenue generator in the next few years, hoping to scale up to 40,000-50,000 cases internationally. They plan to take the Prestige blended whisky off market, enabling them to increase their supplies to the Single Malt direction.