GREAT JAPANESE WHISKIES TO ENJOY

 PICK YOUR JAPANESE WHISKY TO ENJOY

A bottle of good Japanese whisky is incredibly difficult to get your hands on these days, and exorbitant if you do. Yamazaki 12 used to cost around $50, but now you can expect to pay at least $150 at any liquor store that actually has it in stock. Why does Japanese whisky cost so much, and is it really worth it? The answer to the latter question is, usually, yes; it is more often than not delicious whisky that is quite different from single malt scotch, its closest spiritual relative. The former question, however, requires some explanation.

A few years back, Japanesewhisky exploded in popularity outside of Japan, catching the distilleries off guard. Stocks of aged whisky dwindled, and now companies like Suntory have to release non-age-statement (NAS) blends of younger liquid to keep up with demand. Of course, there’s more than likely an opportunistic angle here as well; talking about how rare your whisky is can be a good marketing tool. Whatever the reason, the effects are real, and Japanese whisky is now officially rare and expensive.

You do need to be careful what you are buying, though. Some brands are bottling whisky that is distilled from rice and not grain, essentially making it aged shochu. Despite the naysayers, there are some good rice whiskies out there, just don’t expect it to taste like a malt whisky. The other thing is that regulations are pretty loose about what can be labeled as Japanese whisky. A producer can actually buy whisky from other countries, blend and bottle it in Japan, and call it Japanese whisky even though none of the liquid was actually distilled there. This doesn’t necessarily mean it’s bad, but it’s nice to know what is really in the bottle. Some brands are upfront about this practice, while others are not as transparent.

The good news is that starting mid-2021, we can expect to see these very whiskies at down to earth prices, as whisky distilleries are sprouting by the day, pushing out a glut of good malt and blended whiskies. Don’t give up on the Japanese whisky hunt, because with enough persistence, you can still find age statement bottles, along with plenty of newer, more readily available blends. Here are some brands of Japanese whisky that you should mark and wait a few months for prices to stabilise.

             Hakushu 12 Year Old

From Suntory's mountain distillery, found deep within the forests of Mount Kaikomagatake, Hakushu is a single malt that takes liquid from the pure waters of the Southern Japanese Alps. This gives it a terrific fresh flavour, many considering it as a uniquely liberating malt whisky. The 25 Year Old single malt is rated the best whisky in the world World Drinks Awards 2020. The 12 YO from the Hakushu range, with fresh notes of fruit and malt, along with its burst of peat and smoke and dried cherry is a treat and affordable. Barring the peat, the flavours are similar to the Hakushu 18 YO, which gives off light pear, apple, and citrus notes underscored by ribbons of subtle smoke. It has been praised by lovers of gastronomy as an ideal accompaniment for Japanese food.

              Best Age Statement Blend: Hibiki 17 Year Old

Hibiki whisky is one of the most popular premium blended ranges to come out of Japan. The bottles are iconic, featuring 24 facets that represent the 24 small seasons of Japan and the hours in a day. The core range previously included the Hibiki 12 Year-Old, which was discontinued in 2015, before the Hibiki Harmony NAS was introduced. While fans were saddened to see it go, the aged 17-, 21-, and 30-Year-Old bottlings remained to keep drinkers happy. The Hibiki 21-Year-Old is by far the most globally renowned expression in the portfolio, having received the award for the "World’s Best Blended Whisky" on five separate occasions, at the World Whiskies Awards. With each award both the price and demand for the Hibiki 21 has risen, making the 17 the last of the current Hibiki aged range that could be bought at a price that wouldn't break the bank.

This is expected to change now that Suntory has decided to stop producing the expression, amidst shortages of aged stock. The blend must, after all, contain vintages aged 17 years or more. The rise of shochu and the steep drop of whisky consumption in Japan during the 80s saw many producers reduce production output, a move that is costing the whisky world today. Expect the price of the Hibiki 17 to rise on the secondary market and bottles to become ever harder to find. A recent feature by the Nikkei Asia Review showcased the huge sales growth Japanese whisky has experienced in the past decade. The focus is on aged expressions which, according to many online retailers and stores in Japan, sell out immediately after being placed on the shelves, both real and virtual.

Though aged stock is lessening, the major Japanese whisky maker is optimistic about the category’s growth in the future, and will not make the mistake of running out of stock again. Since 2013, Suntory has invested over $182 million in ramping up production. Stills have been added to both the Yamazaki and Hakushu sites and the company’s Ohmi Ageing Cellar has undergone a large expansion. According to Suntory's PR team, an extra $80 million will be invested this year to expand the Hakushu ageing facilities.

The skyrocketing prices of Japanese whisky don’t seem to make a difference to many buyers and investors. Bottles are bought up no matter how high the retail markup. With demand at an all-time high, several online retailers have even created ballots for extremely rare, well-aged releases.

While the loss of the great blend isn’t the best news, the future is bright for Japanese whisky. As the NAS whisky movement grows, producers can experiment and bring together younger vintages and flavors. The change is slow, but drinkers are no longer associating young age with inferior quality. Rumours also suggest that aged Japanese stock may start reappearing in the lustrum starting 2021.

Colour: Amber.

Nose: Rose, lychee, rosemary, orange, mature woodiness, sandalwood.

Palate: Honey-like sweetness, candied orange peel, white chocolate.

Finish: Subtle, tender long finish, with hint of Mizunara (Japanese oak).

           Nikka Yoichi: Peated 45% ABV NAS

While few Japanese whiskies come close to the levels of Islay scotch in terms of peat, there are some decidedly smoky expressions available. Nikka’s Yoichi Single Malt is one of the best. This NAS whisky has a healthy dose of smoke, which is balanced out by tropical fruit and caramel flavors on the palate.

At Latitude 43.2°N, the harsh and rich nature in the north satisfies everything needed for making whisky.

Masataka Taketsuru, a young Japanese man with an ambition to make genuine whisky went alone to Scotland in 1918, to learn how to make Scotch whisky. He enrolled at the University of Glasgow, took chemistry courses and then apprenticed at three Scotch distilleries. The young and passionate man was fortunate to learn first-hand from craftsmen and have practical trainings to master blending. The two notebooks filled with every detail later became Japan’s very first guide in whisky production. He returned in 1920 to become the founder of Nikka Whisky.

Taketsuru, who mastered whisky making in Scotland, valued the climate and natural features of the north. Yoichi, the place chosen by Masataka was close to the sea, surrounded by mountains on three sides and in many ways similar to Highland in Scotland. A cold climate with an appropriate humidity, crisp clean air and fresh water - everything necessary for his ideal whisky was available. The proximity to the sea is one of the distinctive features of Yoichi. The sea breeze gives a briny hint to the whisky during the maturation.

Direct Coal-Fired Distillation: A tradition inherited from the foundation

Masataka set a pot still using direct coal-fire when he built the Yoichi Distillery. This still was similar to pot stills at Longmorn Distillery where Masataka had the first practical training in Scotland. This traditional coal-fired distillation is hardly seen today as it is difficult to control temperature and requires highly skilled craftsmen. However, the distillation process at Yoichi has remained very traditional to this day. The characteristics of Yoichi Single Malt such as boldness and toasty burnt flavors are unique features of this distillation.

          Ohishi Sherry Single Cask Whisky 42.8% ABV NAS

Ohishi Sherry Single Cask is a rice-based whisky that’s also a single-cask product, which means that, barrel to barrel, there may be some variation, though the sherry hit will offer a familiar tone to an otherwise unfamiliar whisky. Distillation here is done in stainless-steel stills, following which the new-make spirit is put in a first-fill ex-sherry cask, and that’s where the beauty shows. If you enjoy sherry, then this is a must-try. It explodes in your mouth on the first sip.

Ohishi is a unique family-run distillery situated on the banks of the Kuma River -one Japan’s fastest flowing rivers, renowned for its superior water quality. Founded in 1872 the distillery sits in the Southwest of Japan, nestled in an idyllic mountainous countryside. They grow a distinct strain of rice at this majestic distillery called “gohyakumanishi” (5 million stones), using a unique organic style of cultivation that incorporates koi carp.

Primarily known for their sake & shochu production, Ohishi also crafts one-of-a-kind whiskies, which are distilled in traditional Japanese stainless steel pot stills before being filled into ex-sherry and brandy casks. Ohishi is aged for extended periods of time in the high altitude warehouses, yielding a balanced sherry influence, effectively producing a spirit that resembles more of a Scotch than anything else.   

Ohishi Sherry Cask is a blend of casks ranging from 3 to 25 years old. The whisky’s signature, elegant profile is further enhanced by notes of dried tropical fruit, toasted hazelnut, golden raisins, and sweet marzipan. This special sherried expression received “92, Excellent, Highly Recommended” from the Beverage Tasting Institute in 2017, and “92 Points, Excellent, Highly Recommended” for the Japanese Whisky category at the USC Awards.

The nose is rich with sherried, full of raisined fruit and baking spice, notes of oak, nuts, citrus, grains, pepper, brown sugar, and dried flowers. On the palate, there are dried cherries and apricots, vanilla, oak, citrus, floral notes, and spices followed by hints of cocoa on the finish. Enjoy Ohishi neat, on the rocks, or with just a splash of water. 

          Akashi White Oak Whisky 500ml 

Located just a rock’s skip away from Kobe Bay, ocean-laden air is reflected in this whisky’s savory, saline driven purity. The town of Akashi, translated as the “Sun Rise City,” dates back over 500 years. Here, less than 100 yards from the ocean, the owner’s family has been making traditional Japanese alcoholic beverages, like sake, for over three centuries. Founded in 1888, Eigashima Shuzo holds Japan’s first whisky license, issued in 1919, and remains Japan’s smallest whisky producer, comprised of a five-person team. Serious malt production at this distillery did not begin until 1984, when the current copper pot stills were put into action and a focus on premium whiskies began at their ‘White Oak’ facility. Following a program dedicated to crafting a refined, super-sippable whisky, production is limited to insure that quality is preeminent, making Eigashima’s Akashi one of the rarest whiskies available today.

Japan’s White Oak distillery didn’t release its first single malt until 2007, under the Akashi label. It took till 2017 to see this brand name on single malts and blends alike. The label’s best expression is the Akashi White Oak 5 Sherry Cask Single Malt produced at 50% ABV in half-litre bottles. Going layers deep, it balances sweet notes of brown sugar and cherry with brine and spice.

Akashi whisky is the only whisky in the world that is made by a Toji (grand-master in the art of sake making) by implementing sake-making methodologies into the whisky making process. The distill pot used is smaller than those used by both Scottish and other Japanese distilleries, which in turn, decreases the levels of fusel alcohol. As a result, Akashi whisky does not require as long of an ageing process, while its core malt (cask strength) is smooth and delicate.

This bottling is fully in line with the tradition of this small family distillery since this Akashi Single Malt 5 year old comes from a single barrel, the n°61071. Fruit of a 5 years aging in sherry cask, this whisky develops an intense fruity nose with notes of vanilla, a silky mouth with almonds and dried fruits notes, typical of Sherry, and a delicate finish with subtle notes of white flowers. Non-coloured, non-chill-filtered and with an alcohol volume of 50%, this exceptional whisky retains all its aromatic richness to express itself neat or lightly diluted with few drops of water.                            

Akashi Japanese blended whisky has been the subject of some controversy. The bottling for the home market in Japan is made with malt whisky and molasses spirit, which would not be classed as 'whisky' in the EU. This export version, however, is made from malt and grain whiskies.

 A lesser-known whisky outside the local Japanese market, this version of Akashi is specially produced for the European market using a mixture of Japanese and foreign-made malt and grain whisky to produce a reasonably priced everyday blend.

Akashi White Oak is a blended whisky reserved in Japanese Shochu cask (American Oak) for 3 years, aged in ex-bourbon casks before finishing in ex-sherry casks for 2 years. It is available only in 500 ml bottles.

Colour: Orange amber gold

Nose: Malty, citrusy aroma with scents of black cherry, toffee and oak.

Taste: Notes of vanilla and pine nuts dominate the palate, and lead to a long, malty finish.   

                    Hatozaki Finest Japanese Whisky 

The Hatozaki Lighthouse is the oldest stone lighthouse in Japan, and has been a guide for sailors navigating the turbulent waters in the port of Akashi since 1620. It is a symbol of dependability, openness to the wider world, and trade– which enables the exchange of goods and ideas. This lighthouse serves as the perfect icon to represent Kaikyo Distillery’s blended whiskies– a symbol of the rich culture of Akashi City and all it can offer the world

The Yonezawa family’s experimentation with distilling started over a century ago, in 1917, and has been part of their legacy ever since. In the build-up to their celebration of 100 years of spirit production, the company decided to replace their old stills with new copper twin pot-stills made by the famous Scottish company Forsyth’s. The new facility has been designed to produce Japanese Single Malt Whisky as well as other spirits and has been named The Kaikyo Distillery after the Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge that lies in front of the distillery.

Proud of their heritage and provenance, the company has also shared other historical aspects of their home city, Akashi in the Hyogo Prefecture of Japan, in the imagery and branding of their new spirits.

Hatozaki Finest Japanese Whisky is a premium blend of whiskies, aged up to 12 years in barrels with a minimum malt whisky content of 40%. It is a sourced blend with various components coming from outside of Japan. Hatozaki was launched in 2018 by the Kaikyo Distillery, located in the same town as the distillery that produces Akashi Whisky. Like Suntory AO, it is more of a global whisky, with the latter importing whisky from Ardmore and Glen Garioch in Scotland, Alberta in Canada, Yamazaki and Hakushu in Japan and whiskeys Cooley in Ireland and Jim Beam in the U.S.

Master blender Kimio Yonezawa sought out the barrels to blend together for Hatozaki Finest in what the brand calls a two-stage blending process. The whisky in the blend is a few years old, it has a minimum malt content of 40 percent (the rest being grain whisky), no color is added, and it’s non-chill filtered. This whisky is meant to be used in highballs, a very popular drink in Japan, or other cocktails.

Light in style with a rich backbone of malt whisky character. Cereal notes and a light sweetness allow for the whisky to be used in both highball and straight pours.

           Suntory Yamazaki 12 YO

Suntory is the oldest whisky making company in Japan. Its origins stretch back to a small shop, started in 1899 by Torii Shinjiro, which specialized in selling imported wines. Today, it is the country’s largest and most recognizable producer of quality whisky. Yamazaki 12 Year black box was introduced to the market in 1984 and was the first seriously marketed Japanese single malt whisky. Now, Yamazaki is an internationally coveted brand, winning award after award. You know you have quality when you have Yamazaki. This bottle was distilled at Yamazaki – the country’s oldest distillery – and features the new box black box that was unveiled in 2018.

It has been said that it was the Yamazaki 12 Year Old that propelled Japanese whisky to international fame after it picked up a Gold award at the International Spirits Challenge 2003, and has gone from strength to strength after that award.

The whisky first came onto the market in 1984, but it wouldn’t be recognised for its quality, poise and sheer excellence until some years later. Today, it is without a doubt one of the best Japanese whiskies in the world (hence why it’s the second best-seller) and it has become a staple for millions of whisky fans around the globe.

Each year, the Yamazaki distillery releases a new edition of the 12 Year Old and while the label and box can change, the incredible liquid inside remains the same. This whisky has now picked up more awards than one would care to count and that only goes to highlight it’s supreme quality.

Rich sherried fruits, subtle spices and a plethora of other intriguing notes can be found in a glass of this exceptional whisky. A must for every whisky enthusiast.

Miyagikyo Single Malt Whisky Apple Brandy Barrel Finish 40% ABV

At the latitude 38.3°N, a beautiful glen in the northern mountains the end of the pursuit of the ideal location. Masataka aimed to make his blend more complex by widening the variety of whiskies. In 1967 he was exploring the northern part of the main island to find another ideal site for his second distillery. He came across a beautiful foggy glen surrounded by mountains and at a junction of two clean rivers. Once he tried the water from one of the rivers, which is now the water source, he was so impressed and immediately decided to build a distillery there. The name of the river was Nikkawa river by coincidence.

For the Nikka Whisky Distilling Co., located in Japan, apples are said to “have persisted as a symbol of promise” for it for more than 80 years. A large part of this relationship focussed on the fact that, back in the early days of Nikka, apple related products such as apple juice, apple jelly, apple sauce, and apple wine help sustained it while founder Masataka Taketsuru waited for his first whiskies to mature.

In relation to this snippet from the past and also to mark the 100th anniversary of Taketsuru and his Scottish wife Jessie Roberts “Rita” Cowan, two apple brandy barrel finished whiskies are being released, one each from the two Nikka distilleries of Miyagikyo, located in Sendai, on the northern part of Japan’s main island, and Hokkaido, based on Japan’s northern island.

The Miyagikyo Single Malt Whisky Finished in Apple Brandy Barrels is aged in mainly new American oak, ex-Bourbon barrels and sherry casks, with the sherry casks providing a dominant flavour component. The whisky contains notes of apple honey, sage, and vanilla, before being transferred to the apple brandy casks.

Both expressions are distilled from 100% malted barley, with the finishing in apple brandy botles for over six months. They are non-chill filtered as well.

Malt whiskies reflecting different distillation methods: Masataka aimed to develop a complete contrast between Yoichi Distillery and Miyagikyo Distillery. Along with the different terroir, the different distillation method of Miyagikyo creates distinctive malt whiskies. Miyagikyo’s pot stills are much larger than those at Yoichi with different shapes such as a bulge neck and ascending lyne arm. These pot stills are heated by indirect steam at a much lower temperature that allows slower distillation. This distillation method results in soft and floral characteristics in Miyagikyo Single Malt.