Wednesday, 2 December 2020

THE WHISKY EXCHANGE WHISKY OF THE YEAR

Port Charlotte 10 YO Islay SMSW Distillery Bottling 70cl / 50%


Port Charlotte's long-awaited 10 year old, rich and smoky whisky made by the independently minded folks at Bruichladdich distillery on Islay. PC, as it's known to its friends, is heavily peated to 40ppm, putting it up with Islay's other heavy hitters. The resulting whisky is big and peaty with a maritime tang – the Bruichladdich team would claim that it's because their warehouses are so close to the sea, we're still undecided. In the end, the most important thing is the taste: it's rather good.

This Port Charlotte 10 year old has been conceived, distilled, matured and bottled on Islay alone, by a young team with deep-rooted values, and an ambition to make the ultimate “Islay” Islay whisky. A whisky made by people not software; a whisky watched over every day of its maturing life by those who made it; a whisky born of a community with a vision and a mission to kick start a single malt whisky revolution, this Port Charlotte 10 year old is who these people are, who believe an “Islay” whisky should live and breathe the fresh salt tang of Islay air all its life. This is not a spirit distilled on the island and immediately shipped off to the mainland to mature in some undisclosed warehouse.

Nose – The smoke is calmed by the marine, ozone character,time has brought a balance, a harmony in the combination of oak, smoke and spirit. While the smoke is always discernible on the nose it is dry, earthy, peatash in its style and so allows the oak to come forward with waves of golden caramel, fudge, vanilla custard, hints of ginger, nutmeg and clove. There is citrus fruit, coaxed from the glass with a drop of water, gentle lemon meringue and clementine. Breathe deeply and the floral aromas of wild thyme, heather and sea pink bring you to this Atlantic coast. 

Palate – On the palate there is a noticeable delicacy and softness in texture and style. Again, the balance of flavour is superb as the smoke wraps loosely around the sweetness drawn from deep within the oak. Coconut, vanilla custard, lemon honey combines with smoked oysters and sun baked salty sand.

Finish – The finish is sublime, smoky sure, but also the soft sweetness of fudge and malted barley, orange, mango and Banoffee pie hinting of the depth and quality of the oak. The many layers interchange on each sip. As the smoke comes and goes so too the notes of the spirit, ripe apple and apricot, beautifully intertwined with malt and oak sweetness and that typical Port Charlotte style dry smoke. 

Character – Ageing for 10 years on the shores of Loch Indaal has had a profound effect on this spirit. Like sunshine on a winters day, this Port Charlotte 10 brings clarity and lightens the mood, welcoming and brightening the future.

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