Mortlach’s main claim to fame,
production wise, is as the home of the most fiendishly complex
distillation regime in Scotland. Usually
when you say triple distilled, you think of a lighter spirit with a delicate profile. The 2.81 actually
stands for the precision in the way that it has been distilled. Noel Moitra
After founding a monastery on the Isle of Lismore in the 7th century, one St. Moluag went on to found two other prominent monasterial centres and schools of teaching in the land of the Picts at Rosemarkie and Mortlach. The village which sprang up around the latter was named after it, Mortlach. With the building of Dufftown in 1817 the old name fell in abeyance – apart
from the distillery. The distillery was the first to be licensed within
Dufftown in 1823. It commenced regular whisky production in the 1850s and
steered Mortlach to a pre-eminent position as a blending malt.
Although no-one is sure where the unique disparate distillation
regime originated, its adherence to richness and weight singles Mortlach out as
one of the distilleries with a robust belief in the older ways of making
whisky. Soon, it became known as the Beast of Dufftown.
For the 2.81 distillation, every part of the production
process is tailored and calibrated to create Mortlach’s robust, savoury and
muscular style. From the short fermentation (53 to 58 hours) through to the
still house and the condensers, Mortlach uses worm tub condensers which are
only found in fourteen distilleries across Scotland.
Mortlach distillery has 6 stills, 3 wash stills and 3
spirit stills. What sets them apart is that all of the stills are different in
shape and size and they all work pretty much independently from one another.
They don’t work in perfect pairs but create three different spirit characters
from the three spirit stills which are then blended to create the house style.
The first of these is the pairing of wash still #3 and
spirit still #3 to create a malty distillate. Wash stills 1 and 2 work as a
pair, which is unusual. All the runs are split into halves, the heads and the
tails. The first half from wash stills 1 and 2 are the low wines and the
lighter half. These are run through spirit still #2 which creates a lighter
floral distillate.
The heavier half of wash stills #1 and #2 is run that
through spirit still #2 once but no cuts are taken. Everything that has been
through the stills is run through a second time but with the tails from wash
stills #1 and #2. The richer half and the heavier half get even richer and more
viscous.
If spirit still #1, aka The Wee Witchie, is small and
it’s filled high, then it’s a bit of a copper contact. Taking it around
twice is not really cleaning it to that same effect, so no cuts are taken.
Everything that has gone around that second time is run through a third time
with the set of heads from wash stills #1 and #2 because by this point, it has
become way too thick and way too viscous. A spirit cut is taken from that.
A spirit cut is then taken from spirit still #1 from
every third run. Mortlach use worm tub condensers and the water is cold at 10
degrees, which means as soon as that vapour hits the copper, it turns back into
liquid. So when the spirit is in liquid form, the copper cannot do its work, so
every part of the production process is calibrated to create this character,
and this has been calculated to be 2.81.
In addition to this, all the stills are run relatively
speedily with no air rests to rejuvenate the copper and all lyne arms running
into cold worm tubs. The result of this complex regime in a copper-starved
environment is a building up of sulphur and ‘meatiness’ in the new make spirit,
with the ‘dud runs’ on the Wee Witchie providing an extra meaty boost. Although
it is aged in a mix of casks, Mortlach’s weight makes it an ideal partner with
ex-Sherry casks.
The distillery itself only really gets interesting once
you reach the pot stills, but there are other differences. Whereas the usual
grist ratio in most distilleries is 70% grist, 20% husk, and 10% percent flour,
Mortlach uses a ratio of 72/20/8. The reason for this, is that they tend to go
for a clear wort, which is why they don’t want to add too much flour to the
mash tun.
Most distilleries in Scotland produce a cloudy wort.
It’s known to result in a spirit with more malty, nutty and spicy notes. With a
clear wort though, one is more likely to end up with something fresh and
citric-like. Maybe a bit of a lighter style in actuality, which is interesting,
since that’s not at all what Mortlach is known for.
Their six wooden wash backs holding 54,000 litres of
wort. The low fermentation time is just long enough to reach that secondary
fermentation stage, but not quite as long as it takes to get a very fruity,
ester-y wash. The Mortlach still house is truly something to behold. All stills
have their unique shapes and sizes as stated earlier, complete with the variety
of worm tubs that sit outside the still room.
While other meaty spirits exist, like Benrinnes and
Dailuaine, none have Mortlach’s weight, meaning that this is a highly-prized
base note for blends. As a result, there has been little stock available for
single malt bottlings bar the occasional independent bottlings (most notably
with Gordon & MacPhail) and small batches of a 16 year-old in Diageo’s
Flora & Fauna range, a much-loved whisky with a very loyal following. Mortlach
seemed destined to remain a cult malt. Fortunately, a decision to start a core
range did come from the owners in 2014 and a Rare Old, Special Strength, (both
no-age-statement), 18 year-old, and 25 year-old range was bottled, to be sold
out almost immediately. Today, a wide range in this family is available, from
12 to 40 year-old, with the odd NAS bottling. The 16 year-old in Diageo’s Flora
& Fauna range from Mortlach seemed destined to remain a cult malt.
Cù Bòcan tops at World Whisky Awards Scotland 2024
Cù Bòcan and Tomatin have won Gold Awards at World Whisky Awards Scotland 2024, receiving the only Gold Awards to be presented in the ‘Scotch Highlands 12 Years and under’ category. This is a top accolade for Cù Bòcan, the experimental Highland single malt distilled at the award-winning
Tomatin distillery, at the prestigious event in Scotland this year.
The Scottish regional judging panel announced Cù Bòcan,
the recipient of the coveted title, ‘Best Single Malt 12 Years and under’, at
the World Whiskies Awards Scotland 2024. Distilled in limited annual batches at
the Tomatin distillery, Cù Bòcan focuses on unusual cask maturations.
12,000 bottles were released worldwide in May 2023,
with the Cù Bòcan 12 Year Old Batch #1 promoted as a whisky of innovative
complexity. Finished in Caribbean rum casks from Guyana and Barbados, this dram
offers a fusion of fresh aromas including grilled pineapple, ginger and white
chocolate.
Judges also awarded the brand and rhe Tomatin 12 Year
Old with Gold awards respectively. Located in the heart of the Highlands, the
Tomatin distillery is renowned for its elegant spirit and famous portfolio of
brands, which has continued to captivate the industry and consumers. These
latest acknowledgements further emphasise the distilleries growing credibility
in crafting a remarkable range of premium single malt whiskies.
Tomatin Distillery felt honoured to receive this
recognition for their efforts and the great teamwork at Tomatin distillery. In
effect, Cù Bòcan’s triumph at the regional World Whiskies Awards reflected the
essence of their pursuit of excellence.
Meticulously crafted with innovation at their Highland
distillery, this award underscores their commitment to pushing the boundaries
of traditional whisky craftsmanship as they look forward to the global stage at
the upcoming finale in London.
The World Whisky Awards, a pinnacle event in the whisky
industry, are a celebration of excellence. Cù Bòcan will now advance to the
next stage, competing against those in other regions for global acclaim at the
Global Finale, which will be announced in London on 20 March 2024.
Tomatin’s origins date back to the 15th century, with
the first formal distillery established in 1897. Passing through generations of
craftspeople working at Tomatin, many for their entire lives, the distillery is
embedded in the community. Today Tomatin is renowned for its collection of smooth
whiskies.
Whisky Magazine Awards Scotland 2024
A fortnight prior, the Scottish winners in the Icons of
Whisky and World Whiskies Awards were announced in Edinburgh on 07 December
2023.
In the Icons of Whisky, Diageo was named as distiller
of the year and Stephen Woodcock, of Glen Moray owner La
Martiniquaise-Bardinet, was announced as master distiller/master blender of the
year. The sustainable distillery of the year title went to Ardnamurchan, and
the newly renovated Single of Glen Ord Distillery was named visitor attraction
of the year.
Meanwhile, in the World Whiskies Awards, the round one
category winners for Scotland were announced. Among the winners in the single
malt category were Ardbeg, Bowmore, GlenAllachie, Glen Scotia, Holyrood,
Lagavulin, and That Boutique-y Whisky Company, while winners in the blended
whisky categories included Adelphi, Ballantine's, Chivas Regal, and Dewar's.
Johnnie Walker was conspicuous by its absence.
It follows the announcement of the Irish regional
results in the 2024 Icons of Whisky awards at an event in Dublin in November. The
regional winners will now go forward to compete against those in other regions
for the global titles in the Icons of Whisky and World Whiskies Awards, which
will be announced in London in March 2024.
The World Whiskies Awards
The World Whiskies Awards is a highly anticipated event
in the spirit industry. It brings together whisky enthusiasts, industry
professionals and distinguished experts to celebrate the diversity and
craftsmanship of the whisky industry. Held annually, this prestigious
competition recognises and honours whiskies from around the globe.
This year the celebration took place in the Signet
Library in Edinburgh. The winners of the World Whiskies Awards Scotland 2024 as
well as the Icons of Whisky Scotland and the two new Hall of Fame inductees
were announced During the Whisky Magazine Awards 2024 gala.
THE WINNERS
Cask Noir “Hector’s Sound of Islay” (Caol Ila 12yo):
Category Winner & Gold Medal - Single Cask Single Malt, Islay, 12yrs &
Under.
Voodoo “Blood Moon” (North British 13yo): Category
Winner & Gold Medal, Grain, 13 - 20yrs.
Ecosse G 12yo Single Grain 12yo: Silver Medal, Grain
12yrs & under.
Cask Noir “Take It To The Brig” (Cameronbridge 12yo):
Silver Medal, Single Cask Single Grain, 12yrs & under.
Voodoo “High Priest” (Orkney 8yo): Bronze Medal, Small
batch single malt, 12yrs & under.
The event offered an opportunity to explore and
discover new flavours, learn about different distilleries and styles, and fuel
the passion for the world's beloved amber elixir. It served as a platform for
sharing knowledge, and fostering a deeper sense of community among whisky
enthusiasts
One distressing trend you’re undoubtedly already aware of in the world is rising prices. As the whisky industry continues to expand at a rapid clip, that trend is unlikely to reverse. In fact, the global whisky market is expected to be valued at ~$90 billion by 2027, a figure so large that it’s hard to get one's head around it. An analysis of some nuanced trends seen in 2023 may well be used as the basis of forecasts for the years ahead.
Focus on Sustainability: Millennial and Gen-Z consumers have now firmly established that they are willing to pay more for sustainably produced goods. These groups gravitate toward locally-sourced ingredients, which accounts for the rising interest in grain-to-glass distilleries. Premiumisation, or the rise of higher-priced spirits (another trend we’re likely to see continue in 2024), will ease the pressure on producers who face rising costs as sustainability initiatives demand additional financing.
Investment in Social Media: Taking cues from the hospitality industry as a whole, whisky distilleries will continue to expand their reach through collaborations with social media influencers. Short form video tends to outperform other types of social media content, and the creative marketers in the whisky world are sure to serve up some poignant stories in 2024.
Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion: Many whisky brands are already taking strides to create more diverse workplaces and combat the stereotype of whisky drinkers only looking a certain way. This momentum will pick up steam in 2024. If you want a business that will be relevant in 20 years, you’ve got to recognise that this country is changing, and has changed, and the younger generation wants a product that reflects their values.
Innovation Through Barrel Finishing: Also known as secondary maturation, barrel finishing is a tool that distillers use to fine-tune the flavors of their finished whiskies. After aging in one barrel, the whisky is transferred to a different, previously-used barrel to take on some of its flavours and aromas. This practice is not new, but as consumers continue to demonstrate a taste for more complex flavours, the technique will increase in popularity.
Classic Whisky Cocktails in the Ready-To-Drink Category: Ready to Drink (RTD) cocktails are having a moment, with sales up over 225 per cent since 2016. Consumers are displaying a sustained openness to unique flavours, and Bevsource reports a 46 per cent increase from 2017-2021 in canned cocktails that contain botanical extracts. Expect to see RTD producers take advantage of this niche by spicing up the old classics. Whisky sour with ginger or mango? Avocado or Custard Apple? Let's see...
Glenmorangie's New-look Infinita 18 YO
Glenmorangie
is celebrating the infinite deliciousness of its award-winning 18-year-old whisky with a bold new look and evocative name. Shining a
brilliant new light on its luxury flagship, the Highland single malt
Scotch whisky showcases the limitless flavours of Glenmorangie Infinita
18 Years Old. The Infinita 18 YO,
Highland single malt whisky retains its signature flavour profile from
Glenmorangie's characteristic distillation process and its maturation in
ex-bourbon and ex-oloroso sherry casks. Its packaging has also been
updated to
a vibrant blue gift box with elegant linework and copper accents.
The latest creation of the distillery,
Glenmorangie Infinita encapsulates every
element of their house style in perfect harmony and is their most deliciously
complex creation. A favourite with whisky lovers old and new, it seamlessly
unites subtle sherry-cask hints and woody notes from its great age, with the
distillery’s signature soft and fruity character. The result is a beautifully
balanced single malt so multi-layered, it’s as if you are drinking a different
whisky every time.
The Infinita begins with Glenmorangie’s silky, fruity spirit, crafted
using water from its mineral-rich water source, The Tarlogie Springs. It
is distilled in Glenmorangie’s giraffe-high stills, whose height allows
more space for taste and aroma. For the first 15 years, this whisky
rests in hand-selected American oak bourbon casks. Then, a portion is
transferred into Oloroso sherry casks for three more years. Once 18
years have passed, Dr Bill reunites them in a single malt so infinitely
complex it brings a wondrous new flavour experience with every sip. You
might scent honeyed notes rippling across pools of caramelised orange.
Or taste gardens of jasmine and lemon blossom, touched by the breeze. Or
a rhapsody of warm, figgy richness and orange marmalade depths, warmed
with a gentle spiciness.
There are aromas of honey, vanilla, narcissus and
jasmine, and tastes of figs, dates, nuts, gentle spices and more. Fans of Glenmorangie
18 Years Old can rest assured that their wondrous whisky journey remains
unchanged. Hopefully, as its new name suggests, Glenmorangie Infinita is
deliciousness without end. It is priced at £130.
Roseisle 12-Year Featured As Roseisle’s Debut Dram
A part of the lure of whisky is the incredible history
that goes into each drop. You are drinking centuries of craftsmanship in
bottles that are sometimes decades old. Even though whisky has rich traditions,
it doesn't mean the industry stops evolving. We're blessed with new expressions
each year, and 2023 was no different. There has been a wide range of releases in
the affordable and attainable class, making it welcome news.
The Roseisle distillery is a relative infant when it comes to Scottish distilleries, constructed in 2009. One of its key features is the ability to switch between different styles of spirit. Whether they need a light grassy malt or a meaty, sulphury style, Roseisle can create it by tweaking condensers and other elements. They can choose between steel or copper condensers for instance, and they can play with fermentation and distillation speed.
So far all Roseisle production has gone into NAS blends as the malts in waiting were yet to age into a double digit figure, so the fact that it is now on the market as a single malt is really interesting. One truly unique offering is the 12 Year Old (Special Release 2023.) This 12 YO expression is
its first-ever single malt. Bottled at 56.5% ABV cask strength (113 proof), its
first entry is an impressive one. Made exclusively in bourbon casks, both first fill and refill, one gets an
expectedly high level of vanilla on the nose, supported by honey and a whiff of
coconut. The body of the whisky is creamier than you'd expect for its alcohol
strength, which is a pleasant surprise. Upon tasting, the sweetness carries
through from the nose, where some fruits and spices join it.
Despite the high alcohol content, you can easily drink
this on its own, but adding a little water to a glass is never a bad idea to
find out what extra notes you can explore. This Scotch is gentle and smooth but
offers a peppery kick. It has all the features you'd expect from a Speyside
whisky, which is always a compliment. The finish is medium-long, and that spice
stays through to the end but has a slight bitterness. Overall, it's a very
impressive debut and worth exploring for whisky fans looking for something new.
Glenmorangie Captures Tokyo In New Limited Edition Whisky
Dr. Bill Lumsden’s passion with Tokyo inspires
Glenmorangie's first part matured in Mizunara oak casks, with the whisky’s
creative inspiration brought to life by Japanese artist,Yamaguchi Akira.
Combining bright, bold flavours with soft sweetness,
Glenmorangie A Tale of Tokyo is a singlemalt whisky as full of delicious sensory contrasts as Tokyo itself.
Japan’s capital has always been a place of great creative inspiration for
Glenmorangie, countering bustling streets with quiet gardens and ancient
customs with ultra modernism.
A Tale of Tokyo is inspired by the memories, feelings
and flavours of Tokyo and a desire toexperiment with rare Japanese Mizunara oak casks for the first time. In
the whisky’s flavour profile, pepper meets bitter cherries and coconut, as
mouth-watering orange zest fuses with incenseand sweet oak. On the finish, classic Glenmorangie flavours of mandarin,
almond andmarzipan can be detected.
After a tireless
quest, Lumsden was able to source a small number of Mizunara casks, which are known
for bringing a very distinctive and unusual flavour to whisky. The resulting
unique and bold flavours from the Japanese oak are balanced with Glenmorangie
aged in both bourbon and sherry casks to create a delicious whisky that
encapsulates thejuxtapositions of
Tokyo.
To bring in the vibrancy of Tokyo to life, Glenmorangie
collaborated with Japanese artist Yamaguchi Akira, who has created his own
playful perspective of the city’s rich layers of history and culture in an
artwork which adorns each bottle and its
packaging. From the Tokyo Tower
and Ueno Park to Glenmorangie’s giraffe-high stills and lush Mizunara oak trees, there are many
intricate, hidden discoverables in his work, blending traditional Japanese pastimes with the whisky’s flavours.
A proportion of Glenmorangie spirit matured in rare
Japanese Mizunara oak casksshows how
the influence of this wood isincredibly
complex and unusual; it required finesse and softening with Glenmorangiematured in bourbon and sherry casks, and the
result is a dram as full of delicious sensory contrasts as a trip to Tokyo.
Glenmorangie A Tale of Tokyo has recently been awarded
Double Gold at the San FranciscoWorld
Spirits Competition 2023. RRP: £76. Bottled at 46% ABV
Tasting Notes
Colour: Bronze.
Aroma: Powerfully herbal, with hints of toffee
contrasted by incense and saddle-soap, followed by a resinous note and a touch
of cedar wood.
Taste: A peppery mouthfeel leads into notes of tangy
oranges and bitter cherries alongsidefennel and chewy oak.
Finish: Long and gently nutty, with hints of almond,
mandarin, ground white pepper and morewood resin.
The GlenDronach Portwood Single Malt Scotch, 46% ABV
Once a little-known brand, The Glendronach, the winner,
has achieved growing recognition for its outstanding single malts- the result
of a substantially increased marketing budget from new owner Brown Forman, who
has owned the distillery since 2016, and the deft hand of Master Blender Rachel
Barrie, who was appointed to that post in 2017. The Glendronach is well on its
way to becoming a classic and a must-have in any Scotch whisky collection.
However, the retail price has been steadily rising, so it is better to pick up
a bottle or two before the price goes even higher.
There are three levels of grape at play here in the GlenDronach Port Wood: Pedro Ximenez, Oloroso and, of course, Port, which is quite unique. Most of the time when a Port finish is employed, it’s done on ex-Bourbon spirit. The port wine in question is a finish, but unusually the whisky is first aged in GlenDronach’s typical combination of Oloroso and Pedro Ximenez (PX) sherry casks. The whisky is bottled at 46% ABV, without chill filtration or added colour, which is standard practice for GlenDronach and always a laudable choice.
This seems to be replacing the older GlenDronach “10 year” Port Wood, which had an age statement or the Forgue. The age-stated version’s label also revealed a 3-year extra maturation time in Port; this fabulously rich NAS expression has been enhanced by a second maturation for three years in Portuguese port casks. The result is wonderfully fruity and spicy with big, dramatic flavours. But it does betray youthfulness.
Nose: Piercing, delectable waves of fruit. All kinds of fruit. Dried, fresh, baked, jammed. In this glass there is vanilla custard, flaky layers of buttery pastry, layers upon layers of tropical fruits, and deeper in the glass are classic GlenDronach cocoa-and-caramel. Lovely, and assertive. This jumps right out of the glass, no need to dig.
Palate: Medium bodied (not quite syrupy). Cocoa powder, fudge, burnt caramel. Now the fruits are definitely dark and jammy: blackberry jam, fig newton, port reduction syrup. There’s also a slightly bitter charcoal note, and a background woodiness. Robust and flavourful.
Finish: Medium-long and satisfying. A little high-note of grape skins, a mid-palate lingering sweetness from the blackberry jam note, and mild bitterness. Evolves into some nondescript tart fruit (kiwi?) and fades dry.
With Water: Several drops of water improves the chocolate notes (fudge), while also reviving the fresh fruits notes that had languished while sitting in the glass. The palate is fresher, the finish sweeter. Try this first without water, and then add a little to see how it changes for you.
The San Francisco World Spirits Competition Judging Panel described The Glendronach Portwood as showing slight herbal notes, fruity, with a hint of anise/licorice and a bit of cinnamon.
Kilchoman Loch Gorm
For nearly 10 years, the release of a new version of Kilchoman Loch Gorm every spring has become a small event. Named after the largest freshwater lake on Islay, located not far from the distillery, with dark peaty waters abundant in wildlife, Loch Gorm combines the expressive peat at 50 ppm and characteristic citrus notes of Kilchoman with the woody, fruity, and indulgent influence of sherry.
This new peated malt from Islay’s bespoke Kilchoman
Distillery is a masterpiece of blending. The whisky is hewn from 22 casks:
eight 2013 barrels, six 2014 barrels, and eight 2015 barrels with a mix of
European and American oak. The vatted whisky is just touched with local spring
water before bottling.
Unlike the Bunnahabhain above, this Islay whisky is
heavily peated. Only established in 2005, Kilchoman was the first distillery on
the island in well over 100 years but has proved itself to be a worthy addition
to its famous neighbors. The 2023 Loch Gorm has plenty of smoke on the nose but
also offers hints of cacao to go with the influence it gets from the cask.
On the nose, the marriage of peat and sherry proves to be one of the most successful: a tame, dark sweetness of red fruits (blueberries, gooseberries, sultanas), blood orange, roasted cashews, leather and burnt brushwood. A vein suspended between land and sea runs through the aromas, of damp earth washed by ocean water, while with time the citrus and coastal notes grow and a slight hint of honey appears, with the acrid smoke of peat acting as a frame.
The palate is dominated by earthy flavours, with the
peat and spice playing a prominent role in this rich expression. It confirms its all in all gentle nature (as far as the peat allows!), becoming sweeter and softer than on the nose with spicy accents (ginger, paprika, cinnamon) evident but not invasive and a pleasant oiliness. Black Forest
cake with a moist sponge and spiced black cherry compote drives the nose with a
lush vanilla that feels like it was smoked in the husk before baking into the
cake. Dark chocolate and dark fruit support those tastes to give a powerful
whisky, which isn't too overpowering at 46% ABV (92 proof). Fire-roasted
hazelnut arrives with that dark chocolate next to smoked plums and dates with a
whisper of old brisket smoker lurking in the background. The finish is long and
memorable, with a touch of the salinity you expect from an island malt and a
twinge of creamy vanilla custard with hints of poppy seed and pipe tobacco. As
with Roseisle, this distillery deserves plenty of attention despite its young
age. With it being one of the more affordable Scotch whiskies on this list, it's a
great place to start for those wanting to sample 2023 Scotch.
Loch Gorm confirms itself as the most representative expression of how Kilchoman’s distillate compliments ageing in ex-sherry casks, a balance that borders on perfection while lacking (to be nitpicky) a certain depth that would send it into the empyrean of excellence.
Smokehead Sherry Cask Blast is a blend of different
Islay malts that have been matured in a combination of ex-bourbon and ex-Sherry
butts that are then finished in Oloroso Sherry butts for several additional
months.
Produced by Ian MacLeod & Company, the whisky is a
veritable “Sherry bomb.” The company describes the Smokehead Sherry Cask Blast
as “a peaty Islay single malt that has well and truly earned its name. Blasted
by rich, sweet, and spicy Spanish Sherry casks, it has emerged as a fiery,
explosive, heavy-hitting dram.”
For over 40 years Ian Macleod has been a key player in the supply of spirit to European supermarkets for use in their own-label products but in 2003 the company became distillers in their own right, following the acquisition of Glengoyne Distillery. This was followed in 2011 with the purchase of Tamdhu, and they are now adding to their portfolio by taking on the rebuild of Rosebank distillery near Falkirk.
In 2009, the Smokehead brand found a new lease of life through a partnership with Classic Rock Magazine, becoming the main sponsor of their Roll of Honour Awards.
The brand underwent something of a relaunch in early 2018 with new packaging and a new cask strength expression dubbed “High Voltage”, followed later that year by Sherry Bomb, another no age statement malt bottled at 48%.
Smokehead has always demonstrated a very balanced portrayal of the Islay style, never allowing the smoke to run rampant. Despite displaying this dramatic coming together of big flavours, however, the bottling strength of 48% makes for a very drinkable dram – strong enough to deliver on the flavour yet not so strong as to singe the palate.
If one likes the combination of sweetness and smokiness
in a whisky, then Smokehead is another must-have. It’s also exceptionally
well-priced and is an excellent Scotch whisky value.
Old Pulteney, Huddart Single Malt Scotch, 46% ABV.
Old Pulteney is the northernmost Scotch whisky
distillery on the Scotch mainland. Its seaside location has given its whiskies
a distinctive briny/marine tang that nicely complements its traditional
fruitiness. Savouriness is typical of Scotch whiskies matured in coastal areas. For many years Old Pulteney was only available from independent bottlers such as Gordon & MacPhail, but under the ownership of Inver House, distillery bottlings have proliferated, with the best-selling 12-year-old expression achieving strong sales in many international markets.
A distinctively smoky take on Old Pulteney celebrating its birthplace. Richly warming, this single malt embraces a mellow smoky character, whilst very much Old Pulteney at its heart. The combination of influence from the salt-infused sea air and the peat smoke make for a whisky with real character, depth and identity. The distillery is equipped with a single pair of highly individual stills, with condensing taking place in a pair of stainless steel worm tubs. Both stills boast large boil balls, and the wash still has a unique, truncated, flat-topped appearance. With a richness extending into its rich gold colour, this single malt offers much in terms of complexity and flavour while subtly reminding us of the place where Old Pulteney began.
After the discontinuation of Old Pulteney 17 and 21, the Wick Distillery needed to revamp its core range. That is why, a few months ago, they announced a new range that is already available in Europe. The first expression in this new range is Old Pulteney Huddart.
This is a NAS expression honoring the birthplace of Old Pulteney: Huddart Street at Wick. Old Pulteney Huddart has been matured in refill American oak barrels and ex-bourbon barrels. Later on, this single malt has been finished in ex-bourbon barrels that were previously filled with peated malt whisky.
The new Old Pulteney range shows the same bottle with a new image. The new label is more modern and elegant and it comes inside a box with a fresher design.
Appearance: Rich gold.
Nose: Rich and warming. Brimming initially with mellow wood smoke, honey and oily leather, blooming later into crisp green apple. Creamy vanilla and a hint of burnt toffee in the background.
Palate: Freshly-ground spices and soft vanilla balance the notes of smoke and peat fire. There are both richly sweet and distinctly salty coastal flavours in the background, together reminiscent of salted caramel.
Finish: Medium and dry, full of spicy notes.
Old Pulteney Huddart is a well-constructed whisky that at first sight might seem a little bit young (and surely a couple of years more wouldn’t hurt it). The floral and herbal notes of the spirit are really present, though some interesting nuances can be appreciated. The lightness of the smoky notes is very likeable: discreet enough, but also present. Also, sometimes it is nice to find whiskies a little bit more herbaceous.
Glen Scotia Victoriana from Campbeltown.
Victoriana is a modern interpretation of a classic Victorian style Campbeltown Malt Whisky. It makes a superb introduction to the classic Glen Scotia style that will surprise and delight whisky explorers and connoisseurs alike. Glen Scotia has been a perennial winner in
international spirit competitions of late. The Victoriana expression, a single
malt whisky crafted in the style that predominated during the 19th-century
reign of Queen Victoria, has been a particular standout.
Glen Scotia was born in a place like no other - a small town on the west coast of Scotland that was to become the ‘Victorian Whisky Capital of the World’. The people of Campbeltown are stoic and proud, and their whisky has always had a wonderful way of bringing them together in times of need. Glen Scotia prevailed against the odds where some thirty other local distilleries fell. Today it stands proudly among the last of the many, by virtue of the community spirit that defines Campbeltown. Glen Scotia is another Scotch whisky that has become a
classic.
Glen Scotia has been steadily creating whisky for almost 200 years and remains extremely true to their heritage. Glen Scotia has maintained a traditional operation well into the 21st century, using their original mashtun as well as much of the original stillroom and dunnage warehouse from the 1800s. They put out a wide range of age stated releases but today’s review is of an NAS release that does things a bit differently.
Glen Scotia Victoriana is an interesting expression that sits in the middle of their standard range price-wise and goes through a fairly unique finishing process. The whisky is first matured in ex-bourbon casks for an undisclosed number of years before being split in to two different finishing casks. 30% of the whisky moves to ex-Pedro Ximenez casks while the other 70% moves to American oak with a heavy char. The finished whisky is then married together for a short period before bottling.
Glen Scotia Victoriana is a malt that can really appeal to a bourbon drinker. Despite the fact that there’s a bit of smoke and coastal influence, it’s aged in ex-bourbon casks and features a finish in heavy char barrels which lends a lot of bourbony notes to the whisky. There’s also some “Campbeltown Funk” influence here but it’s not nearly as prevalent as your average Springbank. I think this drinks quite nicely for its strength. There's some good balance between fruit, earthiness, and coastal notes.
Talisker Distiller's Edition 2023
Triple distillation stopped in 1928. It has been a mystery ever since as to what style was made, but Diageo’s boffins believe it could explain the unusual configuration of the stills – two wash stills and three spirit. In contrast to most distilleries where the spirit stills are the workhorses, at Talisker the second distillation takes place in small plain stills, again with worm tubs. This adds mid-palate weight.
The Distiller's Edition from Talisker is a series of
annual releases dating back to 1997. Coming from the island of Skye, the
Distiller's Editions stay true to the distillery's origins while using a
two-part maturation method to give the expression more depth and complexity.
For this release, that meant first maturing it in American and European oak
casks before being transferred to Amoroso seasoned and re-charred American oak
casks. The distillery also added heavily re-charred ends to give it a wide range
of different flavours.
With that charring, it's no surprise that the whisky
has a rich amber appearance and a visibly full body. The sea air influence on
the nose is immediately obvious as there is a mild salinity, along with more
robust notes. The more subtle smells come from the malt and sweet fruits. The
nose is excellent and is backed up by the palate. All the smells on the nose
transfer to the taste and are harmoniously joined by some pepper for a lovely
spice kick. The peat is quite dominant but not overwhelmingly so, and it feels
like you get a new set of tasting notes with each sip. Oily smooth texture, smoky and briny yet growing more peppery as woody spiciness takes a clear interest. Luxurious suggestions of roasted fig and sweet date are firmly backed throughout by peat smoke and sea salt, with a smoothness to the chili ‘catch’ as it goes down.The long and powerful
finish with lingering peat smoke and cocoa nibs is confirmation that Talisker 2023 Distiller's Edition is one of its
best.
Amoroso is a rare type of sherry that is made by blending oloroso with some Pedro Ximenez, to make it more loveable, or “amoroso,” for their wives. There’s considerably more peat influence than you get from standard Talisker here, not unexpected in The Distillers Edition. Salty and coastal, there’s a certain earthiness here that borders on muddy, though somehow this does not come across as offensive. Rather, it’s soothing and immersive, offering a dreamy quality that is distinctly seaside — yet short of Islay. The sherry influence is tempered in this 2023 expression, though a little winey PX shows itself on the finish, growing more insistent over time. Sultry, woodsy, and more understated than expected. You have to allow it to grow on you, and it does.
Loch Lomond 18 Year Old
A perfect representation of Loch Lomond’s signature
style, this single malt has been matured in three types of American oak casks
for 18 years, creating its full-bodied and fruity character on the nose and the palate, with gentle wisps of
smoke lingering in the finish.
Founded in 1965, Loch Lomond is one of Scotland’s most
versatile distilleries, producing single malt, single grain and blended
whiskies alike, all of which vary in style from the soft and fruity to rich and
heavily peated. The distillery uses a selection of different stills to make its
whisky, including traditional pot stills, continuous column stills and the
famous Lomond stills – straight-necked pot stills with rectifying plates. With
so many styles, Loch Lomond releases its different versions as both single
malts and blends. Besides the High Commisisoner blend, Loch Lomond’s range of
single malt brands include Inchmurrin, Inchmoan, Inchfad, Old Rosdhu,
Croftengea and Craiglodge. While all have been available as official and
independent bottlings at one time or another, only a handful continue to be
bottled as part of the distillery’s current range.
The original distillery held a set of pot stills with
rectifying plates in their necks (also known as Lomond stills), allowing
different flavour streams to be produced. Expansion in 1990 saw a second pair
of the same design being installed, before the distillery installed two
continuous stills three years later in which to make its own grain whisky. Two
‘traditional’ swan neck pot stills were added in 1998, before an additional continuous
still, set up to produce grain whisky from a 100% malted barley mash, was
installed in 2007. With the recent addition of two more Lomond stills, Loch
Lomond has the capability to produce 11 different distillates for its whisky
brands (not including the spirit coming from Glen Scotia). Wine yeasts have
also been used to help create different flavours. In many ways it is more akin
to a Japanese approach to distilling than a Scottish one.
Aged in three types of American oak casks, the Loch
Lomond 18 year old is bottled at 46% and non-chill filtered. It is the best
bang-for-your-buck in whisky. That robust flavour profile with a bit of lactic
funk is most enticing. This Loch Lomond’s label and carton indicate that this 46%
ABV spirit is non-chill filtered “as nature intended”, but mention nothing
about natural colour. If one says it is as nature intended, would one add colour?
Aside from the colour factor, this bottle hits on all
other measures. This Loch Lomond is truly balanced, rich but not heavy. It is
fruity with overlays of honey, but not too sweet. It has spice but it is so
very faint and so well integrated. It has peat smoke but it does not overwhelm
or become intrusive as many peated whiskies do.
Nose: Woody and musty, but also aromatic. There’s a
solid core of maltiness here – barley corns and toasted cereals. Supple
leather. Unfiltered, organic honey on buckwheat bread. Slight wafts of smoke.
Orange pith. Malty overtones, like walking past a washback after yeast has been
added.
Palate: Rich and smooth. Blackberry jam. There is a
well integrated layer of earthy, rich smoke that permeates the profile but in
no way is obtrusive. It is so well integrated that, at times, one forgets it is
there. A perfect blend of a good ex-bourbon cask that is not tannin-heavy along
with malt/bread note. Clove and ginger in the background, but very slight. A
browned butter – not quite caramel – note overlay.
Finish: Medium, sweet with toffee, pungent with wood
spice and gentle wood smoke in the typical style of Loch Lomond Whiskies.
Royal Brackla OLOROSO – 12 Year Old
What do Macbeth and Royal Brackla have in common? Their
Cawdor ancestry, of course! Royal Brackla is part of the Last Great Malts range;
a previously overlooked distillery in the Bacardi portfolio, which has been
sexed up, repackaged, re-vatted and generally its whiskies are being very well
received among Scotch drinkers around the world.
Royal Brackla Distillery (Brackla Distillery before it
got its Royal Warrant in 1835) is very old, as far as distilleries go, 1812. Its
first owner was a Capt Fraser, who frequently clashed with local tax officials
on whether or not he had to pay for his evaporated spirit (“angel’s share”).
It was the first distillery to get a Royal Warrant, and its spirit was known as the ‘King’s own whisky’. Whisky nerds might be more interested to know that Royal Brackla was closely
connected to Andrew Usher, the pioneer of whisky blending and one of the
‘fathers’ of the Scotch whisky industry. It was Usher’s blending work in the
1860s that swiftly helped to make Scotch a global drink. Not only did Usher
work for the company, but he also used Royal Brackla’s whisky in his early
concoctions.
In 1995, it moved into the Barcadi-Martini stable
(operated by Dewars) as part of Diageo’s dumping of blended whisky sites deemed
surplus to requirements. It re-emerged as a brand in its own right in 2015 with
a core range of 12, 16 and 21 year olds. It’s also been bottled by independents
for a fair number of years.
Today Royal Brackla creates just under 4 million litres
of spirit, which means it is huge. Naturally most of this whisky goes into
blends for Bacardi-owned Dewar’s brands and Johnnie Walker Gold Label. You
don’t often see a great amount of its spirits for sale, save for a handful of
independent bottlings, which makes the new Royal Brackla all the more exciting.
Appearance: In the glass, Brackla 12 is a medium yellow
gold in appearance. In keeping with the arrival of autumn, the colour reminds one
of oak leaves in the northeast as they take on their golden fall colour. Legs
are quite apparent, yet drip down quickly. As such, the mouth feel is slightly
oily and not very viscous.
Nose: The nose is light, with hints of almond paste,
light caramel, smooth vanilla, and sweet nut bread or cornbread with a molasses
glaze; the sweetness is a nod to the first fill Oloroso Sherry casks it aged
in.
The taste at first is airy and quite smooth. It begins
fruity, with hints of pineapple (a tartness), the middle manifests itself with
a minimal peppery tingling on the side of the tongue, and the end returns to
bright fruits such as apple.
Finish: The finish is consistent with the light pepper
and fruits and is medium-dry. Let the finish continue for about a minute and it
becomes drier and drier, but with spiciness: green cardamom, pepper and
lingering herbal and sweet wood notes.
Overall, this is a drinkable whisky and would likely be
crowd-pleaser in the sense that its sweetness and minimal complexity makes it
easy to drink. That said, it is bottled at the minimum of 40% ABV and quite
expensive compared to comparable options.
Maturation in casks to provide taste, colour and provenance is one of the main reasons whisky is so widely popular across the globe. Interactions between the organic compounds in newly distilled spirit and the chemical compounds in wood produce a wide and complex range of flavours, and aging it in different types of wood can create incredible variations in taste. This is a crucial fact to pay regard to, since the raw make that enters the Spirits Safe has an obnoxious taste which has to be cautiously and continually nurtured, first to an acceptable and then to enticing taste. Evidently, whisky gets much of its flavour from the wood it’s aged in. If many different types are used, what do they add? The key points about whisky maturation are:
The number of times the cask has been used–the more
times, the less flavour will be imparted.
The size of the cask–the greater the
surface-area-to-volume ratio, the more flavour the whisky will get.
The time spent in the cask–more time means more flavour
extraction.
The intensity of the spirit–a lighter style will get
more influence from the wood than a heavier one.
CASK SIZES AND COMPONENTS
The bigger the cask, the longer it takes the liquid
inside to mature.
Barrel, 180–200 litres, also known as an American
Standard Barrel (ASB), is commonly used for bourbon. These are made from
American oak.
Hogshead, 225–250 litres, is made by taking part
ex-bourbon barrels to create one bigger cask. The Scotch whisky industry often
prefers larger casks for ageing as this allows more whisky to be aged in the
warehouse.
Madeira Drum, 600–650 litres, is made from French oak
and used for Madeira wine.
Port Pipe, 550–650 litres, is made from European oak,
and as the name suggests, is used to age port wine.
Sherry Butt, 475–600 litres, is made from American oak,
although some are made from European oak. Butt is the most common size used for
ageing sherry.
Barrique, 250–300 litres, is widely used in the maturation of wine and cognac. Barrique is mainly made from French Oak.
THE AGEING PROCESS
The ageing process can be broken down as follows:
The temperature in the warehouse fluctuates day-by-day
and during the changing seasons
The resulting pressure change forces the whisky into
the pores of the wood by way of the charred interior surface
The whisky reacts with air/water and undergoes a
chemical reaction that breaks down some of the organic compounds in the wood
Some of the ethanol and water evaporates as part of the
reaction and exposure to air causing the “Angel’s Share” to leave the barrel
The wood constituents and whisky diffuse back into the
barrel as the warehouse environment fluctuates
Convection currents mix the contents of the barrel and
the whisky turns darker brown as the cycle repeats
NUMBER OF FILLS
Bourbon must be aged in new oak, so when whisky is aged
in a 1st fill ex-bourbon barrel, this means it is the first time that malt
whisky has gone into that barrel after bourbon. In this case, the whisky will
be heavily influenced by the wood, and therefore the spirit is only left in the
barrel for a short period to avoid heavy wood influence. This can be around
five years.
In Scotland, the same cask can be used for years and
years, although it is uncommon for the cask to be refilled more than three
times. So obviously, after the 1st fill you will have a 2nd fill, which
averages around eight to twelve years, and, confusingly, the third and final
fill is known as the refill. After the 3rd fill, the inside of the cask can be
shaved to show new wood before re-toasting and charring.
Some distilleries will even put a cask back into
service for a fourth filling, depending on the spirit and intended
purpose.5th and 6th fill casks definitely
exist, but it’s considered uncool to talk about them. Most of them land up in the
three-year grain whisky maturation process.
With the massive boom in the whisky industry and demand
for casks at an all-time high – plus the cost of casks increasing accordingly –
tired casks that might once have been discarded are now being rejuvenated to
get a second lease on life. The internal
surface of the cask is scraped back to fresh wood, then re-charred to
re-instate the all-important charcoal filter. “De-char, re-char” is the common phrase and process in Scotland, and
many casks will also receive a level of toasting prior to re-charring, in order
to better break down the wood, release the vanillins, and soften the
tannins. An example of Loch Lomond techniques regarding 'Charring' will follow. Casks or whisky releases noted
as STR undergo this process, with STR standing for Shaved, Toasted, and
Re-charred.
Long-term maturation in 2nd fill casks allows the
magical interactive process to really play out without the additive process
becoming over-bearing or upsetting the balance. Single malts matured from 15 to
25 years in 2nd fill casks produce some of the finest results.
Glenfarclas prefers 2nd fill casks, and believes that
the best Glenfarclas whiskies come from refill casks.Glenfarclas, of course, is famed for maturing
its whisky in ex-sherry casks, and the distillery is careful to ensure that 1st
fill casks aren’t left for too long.The
danger is that the sherry-influence would over-power and dominate the
spirit.Most releases in the Glenfarclas
portfolio (e.g. the 10yo, 12yo, 15yo, 17yo, etc, etc) are thus a careful
vatting of casks that combine 1st fills and re-fills; American oak and European
oak.Macallan goes down a similar route
with its Double Cask range, further introducing the influence of ex-bourbon
casks in its Triple Cask Matured range
MORE ABOUT OAK
Maturation of whisky in oak is a three-pronged action
that requires three different processes to occur.These three processes may be summarised as
being additive, subtractive, and interactive.They are worth elaborating on:
Additive: The cask will add flavour and character to
the spirit.Wood sugars, oaky notes,
tannins, the influence of the previous filling (e.g. sherry), and colour will
all be added to the spirit.
Subtractive: The cask will subtract certain volatiles
and compounds from the spirit, making it more mellow, softer, and
approachable.Casks are typically
charred before being employed in the drinks industry; the charred wood acts as
a natural filter that removes undesirable compounds such as sulphur.(As an aside, this is why the distilleries
that produce a more sulphury new-make often benefit from longer years in the
wood).Other volatiles in the spirit,
some of them undesirable, will be lost through evaporation.The “Angels’ Share” is the lighthearted term
given to evaporation, but it’s a serious matter for whisky producers in warmer
climate countries:Filling a 200 litre
cask with your precious spirit and only having 100 litres of it left in the
cask after five years is a challenging issue.
Interactive: This is where the magic happens. Certain chemical and molecular reactions
occur between the wood, the spirit, the residuals left by previous fillings,
and – most importantly – oxygen, to create new flavours/aromas. The casks breathe; the spirit oxidises; and
the oak and spirit transform one another. This interactive process can be where the different oak species produce
different results, as they vary in the nature of their chemical and biological
make-up: The differing characteristics
of the wood’s density, permeability, hemi-cellulose, lignins, tannins, oils,
lipids, and so on, will all impact the spirit differently. Despite the modern Scotch whisky industry
being more than 250 years old, commentators and industry professionals believe
that this third interactive process is only just now starting to be understood
from a scientific perspective.
Time is therefore of the essence, and due time is
needed for all three of these processes to play out.Three years is the minimum period of
maturation stipulated by law in Scotland, which was set as a minimum benchmark
for quality….although the climate and production regimens in Scotland generally
dictate that most whisky will take 8-15 years to peak.Climate and environmental conditions (namely
heat and humidity) obviously have a large influence on maturation –
particularly evaporation – and so different countries factor this into their
production methodologies and timescales.There’s a truism that whisky matures faster in hotter countries, but
it’s important to understand the difference between true, three-pronged
maturation and simply base evaporation and taking on colour.
Evaporation over time is a complex problem for
distillers, and it differs the world over, subject to the local climate –
particularly the local humidity.The
conditions in Scotland lead to the alcohol evaporating faster than the water
within the spirit, meaning that the alcohol content of the whisky decreases
with time.In contrast to this, the
conditions in Kentucky, USA, lead to the water evaporating faster than the
alcohol, meaning that the alcohol content of the spirit actually increases over
time!
One of the challenges for the so-called new world
whisky producing countries is to find the balance or sweet spot with their
maturation programs whilst juggling the many forces, demands, and financial
factors at play for start-up operations.For new distilleries wanting to bring aged whisky to market sooner and
bring in much-needed cash flow, there is temptation and a growing tendency to
adopt small-cask maturation in active casks to supposedly fast-track the
process.However, as many distilleries
in Australia have found to their detriment, aging spirit in 20L or 50L casks for
just over two years in ex-wine casks might produce a dark whisky that initially
seems ready to some drinkers, but the reality is that only two of the three
maturation processes discussed above have partially occurred:The additive and interactive processes have
occurred to some extent, but there simply hasn’t been sufficient time for the
subtractive process to fully play out.The result is often hot and dry whisky that is over-oaked yet
under-matured.
The situation is
exacerbated at distilleries who insist on using ex-wine casks that have only
been toasted, rather than heavily charred, meaning that their casks are less
capable of removing (subtracting!) the volatiles and other aggressive compounds
that maturation seeks to address.(Hence leading to whisky that is described as “hot”, regardless of the
actual ABV percentage.)
Fans of peated whiskies should also be aware that
peatiness decreases over time.The
phenol levels in the spirit reduce with years in the wood (there’s that
subtractive process again!) and so those wanting to experience the real “smoke
bombs” should be seeking younger whiskies and not necessarily older releases.
Only oak may be used for the storage of Scotch whisky.
There are two main types of oak used for barrel making and another two used for variety, i.e., less often.
Type of Oak
Flavour Influence
American white oak (Quercus alba)
Vanilla and caramel, soft and mild
European oak (Quercus robur & petraea)
Spice and bitter notes
Mizunara Oak (Quercus crispula)
Sandalwood, coconut and oriental spices
Maple (Acer)
Sweet, maple syrup
American white oak is found mainly in the eastern USA
and parts of Canada and is used to make the barrels for bourbon and Tenneessee
whiskey. Its growth is relatively strong for oaks. The wood has a high density
of 770 kg/m3and contains a lot of monogalloyl glucose, which is responsible for
the typical vanilla notes in bourbon.
European oak, on the other hand, grows more slowly and
has a lower density (720 kg/m3) than its American relative. The gallic acid
contained is a plant tannin and belongs to the gallotanins. It causes the
bitter notes in whisky. European oak gives off much stronger and spicier aromas
than American white oak. It is mainly used to make barrels for European wines
and strong wines such as sherry.
Mizunara oak is very widespread in the forests of
Northeast Asia, where it is mainly used for high-quality furniture. Due to its
high density and thin fibres, the staves have to be cut along the fibres, which
never grow completely straight. In addition, oak lacks waterproofing oil
enzymes, so much more whisky evaporates during maturation than when matured in
American or European oak. Despite these characteristics, which make it much
more difficult to use for whisky casks, Mizunara oak gained popularity for
whisky maturation in the early 20th century, not least because of the special
aromas it gives off to the whisky, which are reminiscent of sandalwood, coconut
and oriental spices, for example.
Maple grows in large parts of the world, including
Eurasia, North Africa, Central and North America. With its relatively low
density of 653 kg/m3, it is mainly used in the production of Tennessee whiskey:
this is filtered through a charcoal layer of sugar maple before being stored in
barrels, which makes it particularly smooth. In addition, some American whiskey
producers mature their brandy in maple barrels to give the whiskeys the sweet
notes of maple and maple syrup.
While only oak may be used in the most important
whisky-producing countries of Scotland and the USA, other types of wood, such
as chestnut, are also used in other countries.
COMMON TYPES OF WHISKY CASK
Bourbon
Bourbon barrels are made from American white oak. They
go through both toasting and charring before the bourbon is added. Also, the
ABV level of the bourbon will impact the flavours of the barrel – the higher
the ABV, the bigger the impact on the wood. Basically, the higher alcohol level
will strip the barrel of the benefits of toasting and charring, leaving less
flavour for the next spirit.
Bourbon barrels are the most common cask used for
Scotch whisky. Why? It’s all down to supply and demand. By law bourbon must be
aged in new casks, meaning that after their first use they are generally
surplus to requirements. They are also cheap compared with other types of cask,
which leads to high demand from Scotland (and other distilleries around the
world). For example, the exclusive Balblair 1997 from
Gordon & MacPhail shows the classic sweet, fruity style that
bourbon casks impart along with the trademark notes of coconut and vanilla. The charcoal in the cask softens the bold flavours from the distillation process during the charring process. Depending on its tastes, each distillery uses varied toasting and charring. Used bourbon barrels are typically burned for 40 seconds, though this can occasionally increase to 3 minutes. The more char there is, the easier it is for the spirit to enter the pores of the oak.
The charcoal in the cask softens the bold flavours from the distillation process during the charring process. Depending on its tastes, each distillery uses varied toasting and charring. Used bourbon barrels are typically burned for 40 seconds, though this can occasionally increase to 3 minutes. The more char there is, the easier it is for the spirit to enter the pores of the oak.
Sherry
The sherry industry avoids using new oak, and most of
the casks used in Solera are at least ten years old. These casks have been
seasoned with wine before being used for sherry. Different varieties of sherry
get their unique flavour through a range of ageing methods. For example,
oloroso has contact with air, which contributes to the fruity and nutty
flavours, while fino is protected from the air by a layer of yeast, also known
as flor, and this keeps the sherry light and crisp. Pedro Ximenez (PX) gets its
sweetness from the raisins; the grapes are left to dry in the sun before being
fermented.
It is not uncommon for a whisky distillery to buy
European oak (mainly Spanish), have the casks coopered in Jerez and filled with
any sherry until they have enough sherry influence to be used in whisky making.
There may be up to ten litres of sherry left in the
cask. It simply soaks into the wood, which will have a huge impact on the
flavour and colour of the whisky. The inside of the cask is usually kept
slightly wet while it is being transferred. Other contributing factors are the
number of fills and the type of oak used. The more fills, the less of those
dried fruit and Christmas spice flavours you’ll get.
The whisky is often ‘finished’ in a sherry butt to
allow just enough influence without making the sherry flavour overpowering.
Sherry casks (usually around 500 litres) are very
popular, but are very expensive (up to 10 times the cost of a bourbon barrel),
so many distilleries choose not to (or cannot afford to) use them on a regular
basis. Casks used for all the main styles of sherry are used for ageing whisky,
with the sweet Pedro Ximénez and rich oloroso the most common. Consider two
sherried whiskies: a refill butt from Signatory of Clynelish 1995
and Lagavulin 1995 Distillers Edition, which is finished in Pedro Ximénez (PX)
sherry casks. These add notes of chocolate, orange and dried fruits, with
the smokiness of the Lagavulin adding an extra dimension.
Port
There are several types of port available and each has
its unique style. Tawny port is golden in colour and is mainly aged in older
wooden casks to allow gentle oxidation. While tawny port can be aged in oak for
up to 40 years, vintage port only spends two to three years in the cask. Ruby
port is mainly matured in steel tanks to avoid oxidation, therefore ex-ruby
port wooden casks aren’t widely available. And when ruby port is aged in wood,
the maturation time is kept short. Port can be aged in large port pipes or smaller
port barriques.
The most common port casks used for whisky are those used to hold
ruby port, although tawny or white are also used, the latter adding both
richness and a refreshing dryness. Casks used for the red styles of port add
notes of strawberry and raspberry. The Benriach 21 Year
Old Tawny Port Finish shows
wonderful balance between dry spicy flavours – clove and nutmeg – and red
fruits.
Rum
A lesser-seen type (and very rarely seen for full
maturation), rum casks add a whack of tropical fruit and lots of sweetness to
whisky. Rum cask ageing has been fairly popular in recent
years. No wonder, as these casks add yummy, sweet tropical notes into whisky
and tend to be easily available. Rum casks are made from American oak. There
are a wide range of rum styles, therefore each will have a unique influence on
the spirit. Rum casks are used to ‘finish’ whisky before bottling, to allow
just enough of those fruity and baking spice aromas. Rum-cask-finished whiskies
also make a great addition to cocktail making.
The Glenfiddich 21 Year Old, finished for around four months, has proved a very popular release since its relaunch at the start of the
decade, and with exceptional complexity and enticing notes of green apple,
pear, mango, fudge and crème brûlée, it’s easy to see why.
Wine
Ex-wine casks are not generally as commercial as bourbon or sherry casks – Maturing whisky in wine casks is still a process that is being refined and developed. The market for it is still in its infancy, and while it may expand with time, the current market generally values ex-sherry and ex-bourbon casks much more highly – there are a few exceptions for specific distilleries. Some distilleries have a more established history of working with wine casks – Distilleries such as Bruichladdich and Glenmorangie have an established history of working with wine casks. Any distilleries with a proven history of working well with wine casks can command a competitive market value.
Wine casks vary from dry to sweet, with both red and
white used. Sauternes casks add sweetness and notes honeyed fruit, whereas dry
white wine, especially Chardonnay casks, will add butteriness and a
mouth-coating texture. Due to the tannin in red wine, these casks impart
dryness and fruity notes. The Glen Garioch 1998, aged for 15 years in
red-Bordeaux casks, displays lovely integration between the red fruit
(cherry and strawberry) and dry, earthy, smoke, with an underlying notes of
grape.
Madeira
Whiskies matured in Madeira casks usually pick up the
spice and fruitiness of the wine remaining in the staves. The effect on the
taste also depends very much on the type of Madeira previously contained. The
Malvasia grape is grown almost exclusively for Madeira production. It is very
sweet and provides the special taste of Madeira.
The Estufagem barrel ageing production process is what
makes Madeira Wine so special. It is a special heat and humidity treatment
designed to simulate the climate during the voyage of the Madeira barrels on
the ships of the 15th century. Both stainless steel tanks and oak barrels are
used for ageing, and the law requires that the wine be kept at 55°C for at
least 90 days. Through this heat treatment, the wine undergoes many reductive
and oxidative phases and acquires its typical colour. After this ageing
process, the alcohol content is raised by adding brandy.
A fortified wine from the eponymous island, these casks
add extra spice and dark-fruit notes, along with dryness or sweetness depending
on the style of Madeira. This year has seen a prominent release with the eighth
edition of Glenmorangie’s Private Edition series: Bacalta, which is finished
in sweet Malmsey Madeira casks.
Marsala
Marsala is an Italian fortified wine that comes from the town of Marsala in Sicily. The climate on the Mediterranean island is mild, with temperatures between 13° C and 29° C. The European Community has protected the name 'Marsala' for wine produced in Italy.
The biggest unique selling point of Marsala is the special ageing method, called 'perpetuum' by locals. This name comes from the (non-sparkling) wine that was previously produced in Sicily. In the perpetuum method, the barrels are never completely emptied. The barrels are filled with the latest harvest, left to mature and then bottled according to demand. When the next harvest is ready, the barrels are filled again. Thus, each Marsala wine is a combination of different vintages.
The difference between the local Perpetuum wine and Marsala is that Marsala is fortified with brandy - originally to make it durable for long sea voyages. Marsala has a sweet, complex and sometimes nutty taste. This also comes into play in whisky that has been aged in Marsala casks. The different Marsala wines have different colours, ranging from dark amber to light brown tones. The barrels used for whisky production previously contained mostly sweet, dark Marsala, so Marsala maturations or post-maturations are usually darker than normal whiskies.
Ongoing releases of Marsala-matured whiskies are rare. The limited-edition Ledaig 19 Year Old is a rich, fortified wine from Sicily which can be dry or sweet, in both cases adding
extra complexity and extra spice.
New (Virgin) Oak
The purchase of a fresh Virgin Oak cask is a larger
investment for a distillery than that of a used Bourbon, Sherry or wine cask.
Very seldom used for full maturation, as it imparts
powerful, spicy flavours which can overwhelm the spirit, it is useful for
finishing, where the extra toast can add a layer of complexity, especially to
longer-aged whiskies. An example of this is the newly release Bladnoch Talia 25
Year Old.
Long-term maturation in 2nd fill casks allows the
magical interactive process to really play out without the additive process
becoming over-bearing or upsetting the balance. Single malts matured from 15 to
25 years in 2nd fill casks produce some of the finest results.
New charred oak imparts a flood of colour and flavour
that can give the initial impression that a spirit is older than it really is.
Benromach Organic is aged in new oak and bottled between 5 and 6 years of age,
but the whisky's colour resembles that of scotch aged in sherry casks for 12
years or more. The casks are highly active and the spirit matures quickly. They
use virgin American oak casks, and as such you can pick out strong vanilla and
toffee aromas. A spicy, peppery note develops through the freshness of the
wood.
The caramel, which is produced by toasting and burning
out the barrel, gives the whisky its dark colour. We know this from American
whiskey, which is very dark although it is usually only matured in the barrels
for two to four years. The dark colour comes to the whiskeys from the cask
alone. This is because a fresh barrel not only has more aromas to give off, but
also more colour than a refilled one.
For this reason, Scotch whisky usually turns out much
lighter when ex-bourbon casks are used. Much of the colour has already been
transferred from the oak to the bourbon. Virgin oak casks, even when
re-matured, result in a darker colour for Scotch whisky.
Before the whisky is matured in the cask, the cask is
toasted and burnt out. During toasting, the cask is heated to at least 150°C.
This causes the cellulose to split and break down into wood sugar, which begins
to caramelise at these high temperatures. Only then does the cask release the
familiar caramel, vanilla and coconut aromas into the whisky. During the
subsequent burnout, you go directly into the cask with a large flame, which
causes a dark layer of activated charcoal to form on the inner cask wall. This
helps to filter out the pungent tastes and aromas from the whisky like an
activated charcoal filter during cask maturation. During toasting and burning
out, the distillery can vary the duration and thus depth of activation
depending on the desired result.
On Islay, Bruichladdich Distillery first experimented with full virgin
oak maturation in 2008 by filling 300-litre, medium-toasted new French oak
casks with heavily peated new-make spirit, released in 2016 as Octomore 7.4. They got fantastic flavours developing
very quickly in the spirit, although, because the casks have so much to give,
they need to be watched very closely as they mature. The downside is that if one
take his eyes off the casks for too long, they can end up with a whisky where
the cask has dominated the spirit and it becomes overly oaked. While not for
everyone, virgin oak casks are adding new dimension to Irish, Scotch, and even
Indian whiskies, imparting wood-forward flavours that beckon like an old flame
to fans of American whiskey.
Cognac
One of the rarer cask types, Cognac casks are made from
French Limouisin oak and add aromatics and perfumed fruit, richness and subtle fruitiness
to the whisky. Cognac casks tends to be very old as cognac can be aged up to 50
years. One example of this
is Bruichladdich’s excellent Cuvée 640 Eroica.
Cognac barrels initially use new highly active French
oak, which makes oak selection a critical aspect of each producer’s approach to
the finished spirit. The most abundant oaks are the Pedunculate Oak (Quercus
robur) and the Sessile Oak (Qeurcus pentraea). Hennessey extols Limousin oak
for the “rich and creamy vanilla character” it imparts in their spirit, but
Limousin is a forested region where both oaks grow, so that does not indicate a
preference for either species.
Barrels are toasted and charred by naked flame at the
cooperage. Barrels are reused, much like in Scotch, to provide blenders with
various flavour profiles. “Futs-roux” is the term for refills. Cognac can be
filled into casks which have had almost all the flavour removed from the wood,
to allow for much greater ageing.
As with a whisky cask, the alcohol will act as a
solvent to extract wood components such as tannins and vanillin from the
staves. Cognac casks have been used occasionally in Scotch maturation over the
last 50 years, including a Glenfarclas 43 year old, some interesting releases
from Bruichladdich where Cognac casks have been used for peated and unpeated
spirit, and Arran releases. It is becoming much more of a trendy proposition
these days as the stuffy old world of Scotch begins to open up to a bit more
experimentation. Cognac casks seem entirely pedestrian in the face of tequila
and mezcal casks.
Cognac finished whiskies
are appealing; it’s a traditional method of maturation harking back to the
trading days between Scotland and France prior to the Union of the Crowns
Many other cask types are used for ageing whisky. Some
of them work – the recently launched Glenfiddich Experimental Series IPA Cask
was finished in beer casks, resulting in a floral and fruity whisky – and some
should never be tried again.Caveat Emptor!
Original
Content
Category
Influence
on Taste
Bourbon
Whiskey
Vanilla, sweetness, caramel
Amontillado
Sherry
Sweetness, nutty, dry, fresh, acidity
Fino
Sherry
Light fruit, sweetness, dryness, light wood
Manzanilla
Sherry
Salty, dryness, sea aromas, fresh, some fruit
Moscatel
Sherry
Very sweet, dark fruits, sultanas, syrup
Oloroso
Sherry
Deep, dark, nutty, dark ripe fruits
Palo Cortado
Sherry
Rich, sweet, dry, sweet spices, fruits
Pedro Ximénez (PX)
Sherry
Very sweet, dark fruits, sultanas, syrup
Port (sweet)
Port wine
Sweet, dried fruits, spiciness
Port (semi-dry)
Port wine
Slightly sweet, dried fruits, spiciness
Port (dry)
Port wine
Dry, dried fruits, spiciness
Ruby Port
Port wine
Very fruity, dark fruits, sweetness, dryness
Tawny Port
Port wine
Very fruity, nut, caramel, chocolate and tobacco
Madeira
Liqueur wine
Spiciness, light fruitiness, sweetness, dryness
Marsala
Liqueur wine
Sweet, complex, spices
Amarone
Red wine
Tannins (bitter), dry, sultanas, ripe fruits
Barolo
Red wine
Fruits, tannins (bitter), dried fruits, heavy aromas
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