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Sunday 23 April 2017

JAPANESE WHISKY: SERIOUS CONTENDERS TO SCOTCH

Japanese Whisky Growing In Popularity

The first commercial production Japanese whisky began in 1924 upon the opening of the country's first distillery, Yamazaki. Broadly speaking the style of Japanese whisky is more similar to that of Scotch whisky than other major styles of whisky.

There are several companies producing whisky in Japan, but the two best-known and most widely available are Suntory and Nikka. Both of these produce blended as well as single malt whiskies and blended malt whiskies, with their main blended whiskies being Suntory kakubin (square bottle), and Black Nikka Clear. There are also a large number of special bottlings and limited editions.


Since 2011, there are around nine active whisky distilleries in Japan:

Yamazaki: owned by Suntory, between Osaka/Kyoto on the main island of Honshū. 
Hakushu: owned by Suntory, in Yamanashi Prefecture on Honshū.
Yoichi: owned by Nikka, on the northern island of Hokkaidō:
Miyagikyo (formerly Sendai): also owned by Nikka, in the north of the main island, near the city of Sendai. 
Fuji Gotemba: owned by Kirin, at the foot of Mount Fuji in Shizuoka. 
Chichibu: near Chichibu in Saitama Prefecture. This is the new Chichibu distillery, founded by Ichiro Akuto, grandson of the distiller at Hanyu. It opened in 2008. 
Shinshu: owned by Hombo, in Nagano Prefecture on the main island of Honshū. 
White Oak: owned by Eigashima Shuzou, in Hyogo on the main island of Honshū.
Eigashima Distillery: Eigashima Shuzo is located in Akashi City, Hyogo Prefecture, and first acquired a whisky-making license in 1919. The new distillery was established in 1984.

Since 2000, Japanese whiskies have won awards, including top honors, in international competitions, notably Suntory. At the 2003 International Spirits Challenge, Suntory Yamazaki won a gold medal, and Suntory whiskies continued to win gold medals every year through 2013, with all three malt whiskies winning a trophy (the top prize) in either 2012 (Yamazaki 18 years old and Hakushu 25 years old) or 2013 (Hibiki 21 years old), and Suntory itself winning distiller of the year in 2010, 2012, and 2013.

The resultant acclaim nudged Japan's distilleries to market overseas. Further, in recent years a number of blind tastings have been organized by Whisky Magazine, which have included Japanese single malts in the lineup, along with malts from distilleries considered to be among the best in Scotland. On more than one occasion, the results have had Japanese single malts (particularly those of Nikka's Yoichi and Suntory's Yamazaki) scoring higher than their Scottish counterparts.

In May 2015, there were two official single cask festival bottlings: two Japanese whiskies (a Chichibu six-YO 2009/2015 and a Mars Komagatakefour YO 2011/2015). Both were excellent – and much sought-after – but the Mars seemed to be the crowd favorite. Seeing as this was the first single cask from the ‘new regime’ (i.e. distillate from after the two-decade hiatus in production), it seems to spell good things for the future.

Prices keep going up, but that is a discussion we will keep for a rainy day!

The Hakushu distillery in central Japan was once the largest whisky distillery in the world, with an annual production capacity of 12 million litres. One of the best places online to discover more about Japanese whisky is nonjatta. blogspot.com. Their site is probably the most comprehensive sources on Japanese single malts for English speakers.

Considering there are only nine active single-malt distilleries in Japan, the variety of styles is startling. All share a basic DNA with traditional Scotch: Japanese whisky also starts with malted barley imported from Scotland, because it's the best and the cheapest. And yet there are differences. The Japanese don't acquire whiskies from other distilleries to make their distinctive blends, the way the Scots do. Instead, each distillery creates its many in-house variations using an array of copper pot stills and wooden barrels.

The resulting whiskies are more floral, with softer, silkier textures, than those from Scotland. At Nikka's Yoichi distillery, the pot stills are heated by coal fires, as opposed to steam, which gives their single malts richer, peatier flavors. And the Yamazaki distillery's use of virgin mizunara barrels contributes aromas of temple incense and sandalwood.

Climate and landscape are also key flavour influencers. Whiskies produced at higher elevations, such as those at Suntory's Hakushu distillery in the southern Japanese Alps, are notably clean and crisp, as are those from the Fuji-Gotemba distillery, which uses snowmelt from Mt. Fuji.

Part of the growing interest in Japanese whisky is that "people crave the new, the unique and the unobtainable."

Among the most-prized collectibles are single-cask bottles from Japan's storied, now-closed distilleries. For instance, UK-based Number One Drinks Co. obtained the distribution rights to the remaining 364 casks of Karuizawa. The legendary 1967, with notes of tobacco, sherry, dark chocolate and roasted coffee beans, originally sold in 2009 for $380 but now costs 10 times that, while the 1968 sold at a Bonhams auction in Hong Kong for almost $6,000, far above the high estimate.

Equally rare are Ichiro's Malt Card whiskies from the shuttered Hanyu distillery, with labels that look like playing cards; a set of 13 brought $12,642 at Bonhams's November Hong Kong sale.

The Three Top Bottles

Japanese whiskies aren't just Scotch made in Japan. They embody a different, especially delicate aesthetic, based on harmony and precision. They're more subtle Zen garden than sturdy Scottish kilt. The top bottles aren't easy to find, even in Japan, but they're worth the search.

The good news is that starting mid-2021, we can expect to see these very whiskies at down to earth prices, as whisky distilleries are sprouting by the day, pushing out a glut of good malt and blended whiskies. Don’t give up on the Japanese whisky hunt, because with enough persistence, you can still find age statement bottles, along with plenty of newer, more readily available blends.

From Suntory's mountain distillery, found deep within the forests of Mount Kaikomagatake, Hakushu is a single malt that takes liquid from the pure waters of the Southern Japanese Alps. This gives it a terrific fresh flavour, many considering it as a uniquely liberating malt whisky. The 25 Year Old single malt is rated the best whisky in the world World Drinks Awards 2020. 

The 12 YO from the Hakushu range, with fresh notes of fruit and malt, along with its burst of peat and smoke and dried cherry is a treat and affordable ($70)

This fresh, lightly smoky whisky from Suntory's forest distillery--inside a bird sanctuary 2,200 feet (670 meters) up in the southern Japanese Alps -- has notes of green apple and smoky autumn leaves. Barring the peat, the flavours are similar to the Hakushu 18 YO, which gives off light pear, apple, and citrus notes underscored by ribbons of subtle smoke. It has been praised by lovers of gastronomy as an ideal accompaniment for Japanese food.  

Hibiki whisky is one of the most popular premium blended ranges to come out of Japan. The bottles are iconic, featuring 24 facets that represent the 24 small seasons of Japan and the hours in a day. The core range previously included the Hibiki 12 Year-Old, which was discontinued in 2015, before the Hibiki Harmony NAS was introduced. While fans were saddened to see it go, the aged 17-, 21-, and 30-Year-Old bottlings remained to keep drinkers happy. The Hibiki 21-Year-Old is by far the most globally renowned expression in the portfolio, having received the award for the "World’s Best Blended Whisky" on five separate occasions, at the World Whiskies Awards. With each award both the price and demand for the Hibiki 21 has risen, making the 17 the last of the current Hibiki aged range that could be bought at a price that wouldn't break the bank.


Expect the price of the Hibiki 17 to rise on the secondary market and bottles to become ever harder to find. A recent feature by the Nikkei Asia Review showcased the huge sales growth Japanese whisky has experienced in the past decade. The focus is on aged expressions which, according to many online retailers and stores in Japan, sell out immediately after being placed on the shelves, both real and virtual.

Though aged stock is lessening, the major Japanese whisky maker is optimistic about the category’s growth in the future, and will not make the mistake of running out of stock again. Since 2013, Suntory has invested over $182 million in ramping up production. Stills have been added to both the Yamazaki and Hakushu sites and the company’s Ohmi Ageing Cellar has undergone a large expansion. According to Suntory's PR team, an extra $80 million will be invested this year to expand the Hakushu ageing facilities.


Suntory is the oldest whisky making company in Japan. Its origins stretch back to a small shop, started in 1899 by Torii Shinjiro, which specialized in selling imported wines. Today, it is the country’s largest and most recognizable producer of quality whisky. Yamazaki 12 Year black box was introduced to the market in 1984 and was the first seriously marketed Japanese single malt whisky. Now, Yamazaki is an internationally coveted brand, winning award after award. You know you have quality when you have Yamazaki. This bottle was distilled at Yamazaki – the country’s oldest distillery – and features the new box black box that was unveiled in 2018. 

It has been said that it was the Yamazaki 12 Year Old that propelled Japanese whisky to international fame after it picked up a Gold award at the International Spirits Challenge 2003, and has gone from strength to strength after that award.

The whisky first came onto the market in 1984, but it wouldn’t be recognised for its quality, poise and sheer excellence until some years later. Today, it is without a doubt one of the best Japanese whiskies in the world (hence why it’s the second best-seller) and it has become a staple for millions of whisky fans around the globe.

Each year, the Yamazaki distillery releases a new edition of the 12 Year Old and while the label and box can change, the incredible liquid inside remains the same. This whisky has now picked up more awards than one would care to count and that only goes to highlight it’s supreme quality.

Rich sherried fruits, subtle spices and a plethora of other intriguing notes can be found in a glass of this exceptional whisky. A must for every whisky enthusiast. 


THE TOP FIVE JAPANESE WHISKIES

LEADING 12 YO JAPANESE WHISKIES IN THE WORLD

The top five of Japan’s 12-year-old whiskies are: Yamazaki, Hakushu, Nikka Taketsuru, Nikka Miyagikyo and Hibiki. Drink them as you like, but note that the Japanese typically add a dash (or a lot) of water. I use between 5 and 10 drops of water, using a pipette or drinking straw. I like Yamazaki the most.I have included the Yoichi 10-year-old as a very close 6th.

                                                            

1. Suntory Yamazaki

The Sweetest:

The first seriously marketed whisky from the distillery that started it all: Yamazaki 12-year-old.

Yamazaki Distilley is in southwestern Kyoto at the foot of Mt.Tennozan. It has access to high-quality water, which is even mentioned in the Man'yoshu, the ancient anthology of Japanese poetry, and the specific natural environment vital in whisky-making. Whisky-making at Yamazaki Distillery is notable for its wide variety of whiskies, unique at a global level. For example, they select among wooden and stainless steel washbacks in the fermentation process, between different sizes and shapes of pot stills in the distillation process, and between various kinds of casks in the maturation process, creating a highly diverse variety of whiskies at every step of the process from mashing through fermentation, distillation, and maturation.

The various whiskies matured in casks pass into the care of the blenders. The blenders evaluate the extent of maturation of whisky in each cask and carefully select and determine the combination of whiskies that will best be vatted into a final product with exactly the right characteristics. They taste up to two or three hundred types of whisky a day, and predict when each cask will be at its best and when it should be used.

These skillful craftsmen also manage their collection of whiskies by foreseeing what kind of whiskies will be needed in the future. Given the long time required from mashing until the product is ready, whisky-making can be considered "collaborative work between blenders of the past, present, and future." In 2003, the Yamazaki 12 Years Old single malt whisky produced at Yamazaki Distillery became the first Japanese whisky to win the gold medal at the ISC (International Spirits Challenge)-a highly authoritative spirits competition in the world. Suntory has continued to win awards for its whiskies, earning global recognition for Japanese whisky.

This is the classic, and for good reason. It’s light. It’s floral. It’s delicious. For what you’re getting, it’s reasonably priced. On the nose, one gets hints of zest and honey, and the palate, smooth and sweet, brings flavors of citrus with some vanilla oakiness. If you have a snobbish friend who insists on Scotch, a glass of Yamazaki should be the first class in a course of conversion to the Japanese path. 

2. Suntory Hakushu

The Smokiest:

Hakushu Distillery was established in 1973. It is located in the foothills of Mt. Kaikomagatake in Japan's Southern Alps, where cool, clear waters flow through a pristine forest environment. Hakushu is the verdant single malt Japanese whisky born in Suntory's Hakushu Distillery. Made from water with a rare softness and maturing in a lush forested microclimate, Hakushu's renowned single malt Japanese whiskies are blessed by the region's ever-changing seasons—each leaving their own verdant signature. Refreshingly herbal and gently smoky, Hakushu is embraced as the intriguing single malt Japanese whisky from the award-winning House of Suntory Whisky.

Hakushu, Suntory’s third American release, comes in a green bottle (a rarity among most clear-bottled Japanese whiskies) that hints at its “green” flavor profile: leaves and fruits, particularly pear. Marketed as the “fresh” whisky, Hakushu 12-year-old comes from the forests at the base of the Southern Japanese Alps. However, you’d be forgiven if you mistake this for an Islay malt. Even thoroughbred tasters often fail to separate the two. The use of peated barley, imported from Scotland, gives the whisky a smoky nose that suggests seaside origins; then you taste the delicate whisky, and find yourself transported to the forests of Japan.

A remarkable expression of Japanese whisky crafted with meticulous attention to detail. This exquisite 12-year-old single malt from the renowned Suntory distillery embodies the spirit of nature, with each sip transporting you to the untouched forests of Japan's Southern Alps. Carefully selected and aged in traditional casks, this whisky offers a harmonious balance of flavours that captivate the senses. The nose is greeted by a fresh and invigorating bouquet, reminiscent of lush green forests, with delicate notes of citrus, pear, and a hint of mint. As it glides across the palate, a gentle sweetness emerges, accompanied by vibrant fruity tones and the subtle presence of oak.

A remarkable expression of Japanese whisky crafted with meticulous attention to detail. This exquisite 12-year-old single malt from the renowned Suntory distillery embodies the spirit of nature, with each sip transporting you to the untouched forests of Japan's Southern Alps. Carefully selected and aged in traditional casks, this whisky offers a harmonious balance of flavours that captivate the senses. The nose is greeted by a fresh and invigorating bouquet, reminiscent of lush green forests, with delicate notes of citrus, pear, and a hint of mint. As it glides across the palate, a gentle sweetness emerges, accompanied by vibrant fruity tones and the subtle presence of oak.

This whisky boasts a smooth and refined finish that lingers, leaving a satisfying warmth that resonates long after the last sip. Its craftsmanship and artistry have earned it accolades from whisky enthusiasts worldwide, cementing its place as a beloved addition to any connoisseur's collection. Whether you are a seasoned whisky aficionado or new to the world of Japanese whisky, Hakushu 12YO single malt is an exceptional choice that showcases the mastery of Suntory's distillation techniques. Indulge in this unparalleled sensory experience and discover the magic of Hakushu.

This whisky boasts a smooth and refined finish that lingers, leaving a satisfying warmth that resonates long after the last sip. Its craftsmanship and artistry have earned it accolades from whisky enthusiasts worldwide, cementing its place as a beloved addition to any connoisseur's collection. Whether you are a seasoned whisky aficionado or new to the world of Japanese whisky, Hakushu 12YO single malt is an exceptional choice that showcases the mastery of Suntory's distillation techniques. Indulge in this unparalleled sensory experience and discover the magic of Hakushu.

3. Nikka Miyagikyo Single Malt 45% ABV 700/ 750ml

The Most Surprising:

Miyagikyo Single Malt is a range of single malt expressions from the Miyagikyo Distillery. Nikka's founder Masataka Taketsuru chose a valley in the Miyagi prefecture as the site for his second distillery, and started its operation in 1969. He aimed to make a complete contrast between the two distilleries, Miyagikyo and Yoichi, with different natural environments and production methods.

Miyagikyo malts are described as elegant and fruity. Made from light peated and non-peated malted barley, whiskies distilled in pot stills heated by indirect steam express a signature fruitiness and delicate mouthfeel. This no-age-statement version was released in 2016 as a permanent product that showcases the elegant style of Miyagikyo malts, when all age-statements were discontinued. This bottling has estery aromas generated by carefully selected yeast strains along with distinctive Sherry cask influence.

When you nose this whisky, it releases little by the way of aroma. It takes ten minutes to settle and a second sniff yields heavy doses of toffee and caramel. The taste — full of strong, sweet vanilla — mimicks the nose’s form: slow to build, but impressive at its peak.Very classy finish.

4. Nikka Taketsuru Pure Malt

The Smoothest:

This is a signature label in honour of Nikka's founder Masataka Taketsuru, the first Japanese who mastered whisky-making in Scotland and brought this expertise back to Japan. While being a disciplined craftsman, he was also a person of curiosity and open-mindedness. This is a tribute to Masataka from his successors, highlighting a perfect balance with complexity achieved by precise blending inherited from the founder.

Interestingly, this is a vatted malt (a blend of single malts) and not blended whisky, released for the first time just last year. It combines 12-year-old malts from Nikka’s Yoichi and Miyagikyo distilleries. The darkest of the five whiskies (though still light, as far as whiskies go), the Taketsuru wows your taste with its even balance and smooth finish.

Nikka Taketsuru Pure Malt leads with creamy honey and vanilla, bright pear / pineapple / starfruit, toasted biscuit and roasted oak, a very faint hint of smoke, and subtle dark fruit that’s easy to miss. It’s generally a bright, sweet, and vibrantly fruity malt whisky that smell-wise reminds me most of Miyagikyo. However, honey dominates the palate — so much so, in fact, that you feel like you are drinking straight from a honeycomb.

After swirling there’s a mix of creamy honey, vanilla, and roasted grains, followed by pear, starfruit, grapefruit, roasted oak, cinnamon, and hints of coffee grounds. None of that is surprising because Miyagikyo and Yoichi are distilled exactly the same way. And just like Yoichi, there’s that gentle hint of smoke that was expected to be stronger. Like Miyagikyo, the dark fruit / date is easy to miss. The heat has a bigger presence than it should. Nikka Taketsuru Pure Malt Whisky smells nice, but falls short of richness and depth because it’s still young.

5. Suntory Hibiki

The Sexiest Bottle

Housed in a distinct, multi-faceted, corked (!) bottle, or decanter, this Suntory whisky looks like something pulled from Noel’s personal bar. Although the nose is a bit sharp, the Hibiki gains points for using whisky aged in Mizunara, a rare Japanese oak, as well as casks formerly used to hold Japanese plum liqueur. Like the Nikka Miyagikyo, the Hibiki is rich and thick, bordering on syrupy. The taste mirrors the honey and vanilla of other offerings, but with an oily texture and small notes of fruit.

Hibiki is the paragon of harmony—launched in 1989 to commemorate Suntory's philosophy of living in harmony with people and nature. The name Hibiki means "resonance" in Japanese. Suntory Whisky Hibiki resonates with the subtleties of nature infused by the 24 seasons of Japan's traditional calendar and reflected in the 24 facets of its bottle's design. Hibiki is a blend that is embraced as an icon of Japanese luxury from the award-winning House of Suntory Whisky.

Inspired by the subtleties of Japanese seasons and mastered by Suntory's Art of Blending, Hibiki Japanese Harmony is a noble and meticulous blended whisky. American White Oak malt whiskies create a solid base. The rare Mizunara (Japanese oak) and sherry cask malt whiskies are the dressing. The smoky malt whiskies enact as subtle accents to create depth and further complexity. Grain whiskies from Suntory's Chita distillery act as the dashi, or broth, to complete the personality of the malt whiskies and enhance their overall harmony. Hibiki Japanese Harmony is extremely versatile.

Whether enjoyed neat, on the rocks, blended with water or mixed as a cocktail, the harmony of this blend remains complete. It is a delicately balanced, smooth and subtly sweet blended whisky that enhances any dining experience. Luminous and delicate, it promotes a transparency that unveils complexity. Hibiki Harmony is best enjoyed with a hand-carved ice ball for the ultimate Japanese whisky experience. Hibiki is embraced as the paragon of the Art of Japanese Whisky. It is not only Japan's most highly awarded blended whisky, but also among the most and honored whiskies in the world.

Colour: Amber.
Nose: Rose, lychee, hint of rosemary, mature woodiness, sandalwood.
Palate: Honey-like sweetness, candied orange peel, white chocolate.
Finish: Subtle, tender long finish, with hint of Mizunara oak.

6. Yoich 10 YO

A very well made single malt from Japan, Yoichi is the jewel in Nikka's crown for a 10 year old.

This is a single malt from Nikka’s first distillery established in 1934. The founder Masataka Taketsuru chose Yoichi in Hokkaido because of the similar environmental conditions to Scotland, where he learned whisky-making. Along with Yoichi’s original smokiness, this 10-year-old version offers round maturity generated over years integrated with distinctive peaty, well-balanced woody and delicate herbaceous notes.

Nikka has finally brought back age-stated Japanese whiskey with Yoichi 10 Year Single Malt. The first release, ~late 2022, of around 10,000 bottles was only sold in Japan, but this is a second larger batch for Japan, the US, and other markets. The bad news though is that it’s far from affordable at US$150-250.

The Yoichi distillery is located in a secluded area about 1 hour west of Sapporo, the largest city in Hokkaido. It’s the northern-most part of Japan, so it’s out of the way for many travellers, but it shouldn’t be overlooked. Since the distillery is so far north, it also experiences long and intense winters, with Sapporo city no stranger to 18-24 inches of snow. As a result, those intense winters will have an impact on how Nikka Yoichi Single Malt ages. Ageing will be very slow during the long colder season from late fall into early spring, with a huge temperature swing into the summer that’s probably more like Kentucky than Scotland.

Nose: At first, bright floral honey, honeysuckle, cantaloupe, Asian pear, green grape, pineapple, fennel, and just a little roasted oak, roasted grain, dried mushroom, dark chocolate, and mint. Yoichi 10 Year smells a lot like aged Fino sherry (minus any nuttiness) or aged white wine. Yoichi is peated, but it’s faint at best. The viscosity and level of fragrance are actually really good for 45% ABV. It has the 45% ABV heat but low 50% density.

Palate: The flavours start with honey, honeysuckle, pear, pineapple, green grape, gentle smoke and fungal peat, roasted oak, mint, and fennel. Yoichi 10 Year is bright, fruity, and tropical at first, but the smoke and peat comes out a little bit for that peaty mist around the tropicality. The peat isn’t subtle, but it’s also not big and burly. Yoichi 10 Year tastes really good and feels like an extra-aged Fino sherry. The viscosity and actually good mouthfeel are pleasant surprises too, and this could be truly special at ~50% ABV.

Finish: The finish starts with honey, pineapple, fennel, and smoke with more lingering light smoke, mint, and green grape skins. After “chewing”, it leaves honey, green grape, starfruit, and a sweet smoke with lingering smoky starfruit, pineapple, and mint. Pleasant but mild.